ALMOND SPONGE CAKE WITH OLIVE OIL LEMON CURD
This is one for lemon lovers. Too often, the lemon flavor in a cake is subdued by the milky fat of the batter, filling, and frosting. To get an elevated level of lemon, I dropped the cream and butter altogether and made a curd with olive oil to accentuate the fruity, slightly bitter edge of the citrus, and created a light-as-air cake flavored with both lemon zest and extract. Because the curd doesn’t have butter, it doesn’t stiffen. It’s more like a runny spread, which is wonderful drizzled on any cake, particularly citrus or gingerbread. Here, when sandwiched between the cake layers, it simultaneously soaks into the cake and stands as a thin, tangy divider, delivering juicy lemon intensity.
TIPS:
• King Arthur Flour sells fine almond flour that creates a light cake. Look for that brand or an imported French variety with a floury texture. If you can’t find either, use another almond meal or flour or finely grind blanched almonds and pass it through a fine-mesh sieve or sifter before measuring it. The cake will work with coarser almond flour but will be a bit gritty. The cake uses a pound of almond flour, so you can just add a whole bag without measuring.
• A fruity olive oil, such as Spanish Arbequina, accentuates the lemon in the curd.
makes one 5-by-12-inch layer cake
gluten-free, dairy-free
OLIVE OIL LEMON CURD
- ¾ cup (156 g) sugar
- 1 packed tablespoon cornstarch
- 4 large lemons
- 3 large eggs
- ¼ cup (55 g) extra-virgin olive oil
- ¼ teaspoon salt
ALMOND SPONGE CAKE
- 8 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
- ½ teaspoon cream of tartar
- 1 cup (208 g) sugar
- 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- ½ teaspoon pure lemon oil or extract
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 4¼ cups (1 pound; 458 g) almond flour (see Tip)
- Confectioners’ sugar, whipped cream, and raspberries, for serving (optional)
1. To make the curd: Whisk the sugar and cornstarch in a large saucepan, preferably one with sloping sides. Zest the lemons on top, then squeeze ¾ cup (168 g) juice from the lemons and stir into the sugar. Whisk in the eggs, oil, and salt.
2. Set the pan over medium-low heat and whisk constantly until the mixture thickens into an opaque cream and starts to boil; bubbles should evenly break the surface. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes more.
3. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours. (Or set the bowl in a larger bowl of ice and water and stir until the curd is cold.)
4. Meanwhile, make the cake: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F. Coat a half sheet pan with nonstick cooking spray, line the bottom with parchment paper, and spray again.
5. Whisk the egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in ½ cup (104 g) sugar. Whisk until stiff, glossy (not dry) peaks form.
6. Whisk the egg yolks, lemon zest, vanilla, lemon oil, salt, and the remaining ½ cup (104 g) sugar in another large bowl (or transfer the beaten whites to another bowl and use the same mixer bowl without washing). Whisk on medium-high speed until thick, pale yellow, and tripled in volume. Fold in one third of the egg whites to lighten the mixture, then sift in half of the almond flour and fold gently just until all traces of flour disappear. Repeat alternating additions, ending with whites. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pan as gently as possible to avoid deflating it.
7. Bake until the cake is golden brown and the top barely springs back when gently pressed with your fingertip, 20 to 25 minutes.
8. If the sides seem stuck to the pan, immediately run a sharp thin-bladed knife around the edges. Cool completely in the pan on a rack.
9. Place a sheet of parchment paper larger than the cake and a large cutting board on top of the cake, invert the pan and board together, and lift off the pan. Carefully peel off the parchment and discard. Trim the edges of the cake (and eat the trimmings!). Cut the trimmed cake crosswise into thirds to create 3 even rectangles. Then use scissors to cut the parchment under the cake along where the cake is cut, and separate the pieces.
10. Center a serving plate over one piece of cake, invert the plate and cake together, and remove the parchment. Spread half of the lemon curd over the cake. Flip another cake layer on top, remove the parchment, and spread with the remaining curd. Flip the last cake layer on top so it’s bottom side up and remove the parchment. Cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the layers have time to meld together, at least 1 hour.
11. Uncover the cake and let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving. If you’d like, dust with confectioners’ sugar and top with whipped cream and raspberries.
MAKE AHEAD
The cake layers will keep at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month. The curd will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The assembled cake will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
