A&M: If you’re in the mood for a rich, comforting stew but want something with a bit of flair, this dish is for you. Abra Bennett has you simmer lamb shanks in a heady broth of red wine, stock, fennel, celery root, and aromatics until the meat falls from the bone, adding sun-dried tomatoes and green olives two-thirds of the way through. The resulting dish is brilliant: the fennel and shallots melt into the sauce, the olives leach some of their brine and become almost artichokelike in flavor, the sun-dried tomatoes soften and mellow, and a finishing splash of Pernod and a shower of freshly grated lemon zest cut through the fattiness of the lamb.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 lamb shanks
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 fennel bulb, diced small
1 softball-size celery root (celeriac), peeled and diced small
2 large shallots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried bouquet garni
2 cups young red wine
2 cups veal or beef broth
1 cup green olives, pits in
½ cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil
1 splash Ricard or Pernod (optional)
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (use a Microplane if you have one)
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
Abra Bennett: “Like most stews and braises, this tastes even better the next day, so make it ahead if you have the chance.”
You may want to drain some of the oil in the pan after browning the lamb (we kept 3 tablespoons). We also reduced the sauce by simmering it for a bit after the meat was cooked.
ABOUT THE COOK
Abra Bennett is a food and wine writer living in Bainbridge Island, Washington.
Her favorite recipe from a cookbook: “Anything from Paula Wolfert’s Cooking of Southwest France, but if I have to pick just one recipe, her Ragout of Veal with Orange. It’s astoundingly delicious.”
You can find her Wildcard-winning Risotto Rosso recipe.
Here’s her blog: French Letters (www.frenchletters.wordpress.com).
WHAT THE COMMUNITY SAID
aargersi: “Okay, I had this last night and I think it may be the best lamb shank I have ever had … I have never cooked celeriac before, and I am hooked! Also on Pernod … I confess to having a little sip or two before dinner as well.”