A&M: Earthy and tannic from the red wine, Abra Bennett’s risotto is a carefully conceived juxtaposition of flavors and textures. It’s also a study in umami: you start with a base of cubed pancetta and mushrooms, add shallots, and Carnaroli rice—which you then render creamy with red wine and beef broth—and finish the risotto with a shower of Parmesan and some butter. It’s rich without being heavy, and we love how the Carnaroli rice holds its structure.
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ounces diced pancetta
4 ounces diced mushroom caps (shiitake or cremini)
2 cups beef broth
3 cups chicken broth
¼ cup finely chopped shallot
1 cup Carnaroli rice (or use Vialone Nano or Arborio)
½ cup fruity red wine
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a heavy skillet with high sides over medium heat. Sauté the pancetta until the fat begins to render. Add the mushrooms and sauté over medium-high heat until the pancetta and mushrooms are golden and slightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove the pancetta and mushrooms from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- Combine the beef and chicken broths in a large measuring cup or a saucepan. Heat the broth in the micro wave or on the stovetop until simmering, and maintain it at a bare simmer. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to the fat in the pan and briefly sauté the shallot over medium heat until softened but not brown. Add the rice and sauté, stirring frequently, until the rice is completely opaque but not golden. Add the wine and stir until the rice is pink and the wine has evaporated. Reduce the heat to medium-low.
- Begin adding the simmering broth, ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly. As soon as each addition of the broth is absorbed into the rice, add another ½ cup. When you have only 1 cup of broth left, return the pancetta and mushroom mixture to the pan to let the flavors blend into the rice. When all of the broth has been absorbed, the rice should be creamy, but not mushy. You may need a little more or less broth, depending on your rice.
- Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and stir until melted. Add the Parmesan and stir to incorporate, then add the parsley and stir briefly. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
Photography by Sarah Shatz
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
Abra Bennett says: “I often create dishes to accompany specific wines, and I made this risotto in honor of Yellow Hawk’s Mescolanza di Rosso, a delicious wine they’re no longer making. You can make the risotto with any fruity red wine and still soar like a hawk when you serve it.”
We like making risotto in a wide shallow pan so more of the rice is exposed to the heat and you have more control over it.
ABOUT THE COOK
To learn about Abra Bennett, check out her recipe for Autumn Olive Medley (Braised Lamb Shanks with Fennel, Celery Root, and Olives).
WHAT THE COMMUNITY SAID
jas53: “This was really delicious. So flavorful that my husband, who usually throws salt and pepper on everything, commented that it didn’t need any additional seasoning whatsoever. This is a keeper. Thanks for sharing!”
DeArmasA: “I have now made this recipe three times and the last time I made it I was informed by the family that it is henceforth the only risotto recipe I’m allowed to serve. Simply delicious, worth every minute it takes to make (37 for me). Thanks for posting; I don’t know what I’d do without Food52 and all you generous chefs!”