Ceviche Criollo

Classic Ceviche “Creole” with Rocoto Tiger’s Milk

Ceviche criollo, Creole-style ceviche, is one of the most classic styles of ceviche. It is a variation on the ceviche de carretillas that street vendors quickly mix up to order in their little pushcarts with rocoto paste instead of the fresh peppers (rocoto peppers are a very spicy pepper typically used in traditional ceviches). You could call it (really good) fast-food ceviche, though ceviche is already pretty quick to make. Criollo is a reference to Creoles, locals of Spanish descent, who were considered higher ranking in the old Peruvian class system than those of purely local blood. It also refers to the melting pot of foods that evolved in Peru after the Spanish came with not just Spanish influences, but African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and so many more.

As with the other ceviches, use whatever firm, non-oily white-fleshed fish looks good at the market, and be sure to get a little extra to make your Rocoto Leche de Tigre (page 78). The amount of rocoto pepper paste in this recipe is pretty light. If you like your ceviches extra-spicy, go for it and stir in a little more of the pepper paste.

• ½ medium red onion, heart removed (use it to make Leche de Tigre, page 78)
• 1 pound firm white-fleshed fish such as corvina, striped bass, yellowtail, paiche, or halibut, cut into generous 1½-inch cubes (about 2 cups) and well chilled
• About 1 cup Rocoto Leche de Tigre (page 78), well chilled
• Kosher salt
• Pureed garlic (page 37), as desired
• About 1½ cups choclo (see page 28)
• 2 handfuls (about ½ cup) Cancha (page 46; optional)
• ¼ bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped, or a small handful of roughly chopped celery leaves or whole micro greens

1 Slice the onion "a la pluma" (see page 45) and set aside. In a medium bowl, combine the fish and rocoto leche de tigre. Use your fingers to gently toss the fish in the sauce until well coated, add the onion, and toss again. Be careful not to break up the pieces of fish. Taste the ceviche and adjust the seasonings by tossing the seafood with more salt and a little pureed garlic, if you like. Make it your own.

2 Spoon the ceviche into the center of each of four wide, shallow serving bowls. Divide the choclo and cancha (if using) among the plates, setting the choclo to one side of the ceviche and the crunchy cancha on the opposite side. Sprinkle the cilantro on top. Serve inmediatamente.

Selecting Fish for Ceviche

In Peru, ceviche is made from fish like corvina and lenguado, sole, or whatever came in from the fishermen that day. You can find corvina at some seafood markets in the United States but you can use any firm, white-fleshed fish. Striped bass, yellowtail, paiche, and halibut are all good. But not every fish can or should be made into ceviche. As a general rule, look for the same type and quality of fish you might use to make sashimi, as it’s essentially being eaten raw (although the acid in the limes very lightly “cooks” or texturally changes the fish). Don’t use oily fish like black cod or Chilean sea bass, which are too firm to serve raw and have a much better texture when cooked. The same goes for tiraditos. The exception are fish with darker meat like salmon and tuna, which both make good sushi and also good tiraditos. The fish flesh is oily, but in a buttery way, and both almost melt in your mouth when served raw.