Tiradito Amazónico

Paiche Sashimi-Style with Ají Amarillo–Tamari Sauce & Serrano chiles

Paiche is a lot like the river in which it lives. Describing the prehistoric fish or the Amazon to those who have never seen either is not easy, but both are amazing. Paiche was on the endangered list not so long ago, considered doomed and near extinction. Today, the fish is back, thriving in its old neighborhood—the Amazon jungle—thanks to sustainable farming (see page 93), and is an important part of modern Peruvian cuisine.

In this dish, I really like the way crisp vegetables contrast with the texture of the tender fish. Soaking the cabbage and red onion in cold water makes them extra crispy. For the crispiest vegetables, you need to change the water several times. Slice them as thin as you can, so they are almost shredded. The bolder flavors in tamari are best with this tiradito, but substitute soy sauce if that’s all you have in the pantry.

• About ⅓ cup very finely sliced green cabbage
• About ⅓ cup “a la pluma” red onion (see page 45)
• 8 (¼-inch-thick) slices firm white-fleshed fish such as corvina, striped bass, yellowtail, paiche, or halibut, from a center-cut fillet (see page 80)
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh cilantro leaves and tender top stems
• About ½ cup Ají Amarillo–Lime Sauce (page 88), well chilled
• 2 teaspoons tamari, or 2½ teaspoons soy sauce, plus more for serving
• ½ small serrano chile, cut crosswise into 8 thin coins

1 Cut the finely sliced cabbage and red onion into bite-size pieces. Submerge the vegetables in a small bowl of very cold water for 15 minutes. Add ice if the water is not very cold, and change the water at least once. Neatly arrange the fish slices side by side on one large or four small plates with about ½ inch of space between each. If you are using a large, round serving platter, you can arrange the fish in a circle, like the rays of the sun, or use a long, rectangular plate and arrange the fish down the middle.

2 Swirl together the sesame and olive oils in a small ramekin and drizzle about ½ teaspoon on top of each slice of fish. If using a cooking torch, quickly sear each slice of fish for no more than 2 to 3 seconds. The fish should barely begin to turn white on top. Alternatively, heat a large stainless-steel spoon directly over the flame of a gas burner until scalding hot. Quickly move the back of the hot spoon over the surface of a slice of fish, moving the spoon continuously so it doesn’t stick to the fish. Reheat the spoon over the gas flame and repeat with the remaining slices of fish.

3 Drain the cabbage and red onion and dry them off lightly with a paper towel. Return the vegetables to the bowl and toss them with the cilantro. In a small bowl, mix together the ají amarillo–lime sauce and tamari and drizzle the sauce on top of the fish, using about 1 tablespoon per slice. Neatly arrange 1 generous teaspoon of the cabbage–red onion salad in the middle of each slice of fish and top each mini salad with 1 serrano slice. Pile the remaining salad in the middle of the plate if you are using a round platter, or alongside the sliced fish if you are using rectangular platters. Drizzle a few drops of tamari all over the plate. Serve inmediatamente.