Chanfainita

Braised Oxtail with Spicy Huacatay Sauce & Maíze Mote

Chanfainita is traditionally made with beef lung. The stew dates back to when the Spanish conquistadors brought African slaves with them to Peru. The slaves supplemented the basic ingredients they had for cooking with whatever parts of an animal the wealthy landowners discarded. The Spanish didn’t know what they were missing. Scraps like organ meats and an animal’s hooves make the best-tasting stews. They hide such a diversity of flavors inside them (as with beef lung) or simply taste fantastically different (like chicken liver). And, I love all of their different textures. With beef lung, you get a very subtle beef flavor and an almost spongy texture, which may sound strange if you’ve never tried it, but is so good.

Unfortunately, you can’t buy beef lung from butchers in the United States. I use oxtail, which has a big, beefy flavor that is so good with the huacatay and ají pepper beer braise. I have to say, some days I like it even more than the heart. A meaty 3- to 4-pound pot roast would also be good. If you are making the maíz mote, or Peruvian-style hominy (the classic choice), make it ahead and save the cooking broth to use as stock for the chanfainita.

1 Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the oxtails in a Dutch oven or roasting pan big enough so they fit snugly in a single layer and pour the huacatay beer braise on top. If the oxtails are not fully covered by the sauce, try a different size or add a cup or two of the chicken stock to cover. Cover the pan securely with foil, then the lid. Bake the oxtails until fall-apart tender, 3½ to 4 hours. Use a large spoon to skim off as much of the surface fat from the sauce as you can (although a little fat is always tasty).

2 When cool enough to handle, season the meat and braising liquid (it should have reduced to more of a sauce) with salt, if needed. If not serving right away, let cool completely, cover, and refrigerate the oxtails in the huacatay sauce for up to 2 days.

3 If chilled, rewarm the shredded oxtails in the huacatay sauce slowly over medium-low heat. Stir the sauce every once in a while, but be careful not to break up the meat. Pile the maíz mote into individual serving bowls or in a large serving bowl, and pile the oxtails and sauce alongside. Serve the chanfainita with the bread.

Spicy Huacatay Beer Braise

Makes 6 to 7 cups

It’s worth seeking out the herb huacatay (see page 31) for this dish. It gives the braise a really unique flavor. If you can’t find it, the cooked-down sauce will still be very good. It will just taste more like a traditional seco stew instead of chanfainita.

1 Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot, a good 2 minutes. Add the oil, heat for another minute or two, then add the onion and. Sauté the onion, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until they begin to color on the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, sauté for another minute, then stir in both ají pastes and the cumin, reduce the heat to medium-low, and sauté for another minute or two, moving the aderezo (flavorings) back and forth on the bottom of the pan with the spoon.

2 Add the huacatay and beer, scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then add the stock. Bring the braising liquid to a low boil, cook the liquid for 8 to 10 minutes to allow the flavors to mellow, and set aside the sauce until cool enough to handle.

3 Chop off the very ends of the cilantro stems and break each bunch into thirds. Puree the braising liquid in batches with the mint leaves and cilantro in a blender until smooth. Season the braise lightly with salt (the salt will become more concentrated as the braising liquid reduces). Use immediately, or refrigerate the huacatay beer braise for up to 2 days (rewarm before using).