Aderezo. A seasoning base used to flavor a dish. The aderezo, literally “to dress,” varies by the cook and dish. See sidebar, page 152.
Adobo. A curing and cooking technique. Before refrigeration, the Spanish used a spicy, vinegary marinade to preserve meats, then the meats were slowly cooked in the adobo “sauce.”
Agave Syrup. Mexican sweetener made from agave plants. Like honey, agave syrup is slightly sweeter than sugar, but not as thick, so it mixes well into other ingredients at room temperature or chilled. Amber agave syrup is the most commonly available grade and works well in cocktails. Substitute: honey.
Ají. The Peruvian name for native chile peppers. Of the hundreds of cultivated varieties, the three most significant to Peruvian cooking are ají amarillo, ají panca, and rocoto. For more on each type of pepper, see La Cocina, page 20.
Alfajores. Sandwich-style cookies that get their crumbly texture from cornstarch. Alfajores are traditionally filled with manjar blanco, what dulce de leche is called in Peru.
Alpaca. Llamalike animal domesticated thousands of years ago in northern Peru. Alpaca can survive at high altitudes and require less feed than many similar animals, so their meat remains popular in Peru, especially in mountain regions. The flavor is similar to lamb, only not as gamy. Ask for farm-raised alpaca at specialty butchers. Substitute: equal parts ground lamb and beef.
Amaranth. See Kiwicha.
Aniseed and Star Anise. Unrelated spices with a similar licoricelike flavor. Aniseeds, a Mediterranean spice, have a mild, almost floral licorice flavor and are used in Peruvian pastries in both whole or powdered form. Star anise is a Chinese spice with a more intense, but balanced, licorice flavor, so I add them whole to both savory dishes and desserts and sweet drinks like chicha morada, an Andean purple corn punch.
Anticuchos. Grilled street foods. A specialty of Lima, anticuchos are grilled-to-order skewered meats and poultry, traditionally made from gizzards or other less expensive cuts. Every vendor has his or her own special anticucho sauce, or basting glaze, and often serves the skewers with a side of choclo, Peruvian corn.
Arroz Verde. Green rice, a common dish all over Latin America. In Peru, the rice is made with plenty of cilantro as the base, so it takes on a very dark green color.
Bonito Flakes. A fish related to tuna and mackerel preserved by dry-aging, curing, and smoking. In Japanese cooking, the salty, smoky flesh is shaved into tissue-thin flakes and used to flavor bold sauces like teriyaki sauce.
Botija Olives. Dark purple descendant of a Spanish variety of olives cured in an earthenware jar with a rich, briny flavor. Botijas are worth seeking out for salads and sauces like the traditional aceituna Botija sauce for papas rellenas. Look for jarred and brine-packed Botijas, not the dried, salted olives. Substitute: Kalamatas.
Caigua. A long, green, vegetablelike fruit cultivated by the Incas, also known as a “stuffing cucumber” because of its hollow interior. Caiguas have a flavor somewhere between a cucumber and a green bell pepper and are traditionally served raw or pickled in salads, sautéed, or stuffed and baked. Available at some farmers’ markets and Latin markets.
Camotes. Sweet potatoes and yams. See La Cocina, page 20.
Canarios. Canary beans. Medium-size, off-white beans with a mild flavor and tender texture that make them very versatile. Also called mayocobas and frijoles Peruanos (Peruvian beans). Substitute: great northern beans or similar firm, white beans. For more on mayocobas, see sidebar, page 212.
Cancha. Toasted and salted corn kernels made from maíz chulpe, a large-kernel variety of corn that is dried. See La Cocina, page 20.
Chancaca. Pure cane loaf sugar used all over Latin America (where it goes by different names). In Peru, the sugar is shaped into chubby cones, wrapped in banana leaves, and used as the base for the sauce for desserts like picarones, sweet potato–pumpkin beignets. Traditionally, the juice of freshly harvested sugarcane is cooked down and pounded by hand to lend a caramelized flavor; processed versions today are machine made from refined white sugar (both are suitable for making canchaca sauce). Substitutes: panela, piloncillo, or similar loaf sugar.
Canola Oil. The workhorse vegetable oil used in most Peruvian households for both chilled dishes like salads and for all types of cooking, including deep frying. For chilled dishes and most cooked dishes, I prefer the cleaner flavor of olive oil, but I do use canola oil for frying. Substitute: any vegetable oil.
Carapulcra. Incan-style stew made with papas secas (sun-dried potatoes), pork, ají peppers, and peanuts. The dish really shows the mix of influences in Peruvian cuisine, from local to European, Asian, and African flavors.
Causa. Potato salad–like dish made from mashed potatoes mixed with ají amarillo paste, lime juice, and oil (see pages 101–109). The very creamy, chilled potato mixture is pressed into casserole dishes or shaped with molds and traditionally topped with chicken or seafood-based salads, avocados, tomatoes, and other toppings.
Cebollas Rojas. Red onions. See La Cocina, page 20.
Ceviche (Cebiche). Chilled seafood dish served in leche de tigre sauce, with raw and sometimes quickly blanched seafood. Ceviche is probably Peru’s most famous dish. For more information on ceviche, see the sidebar on page 79.
Chanfainita. Creole soup traditionally made with beef lung and maíz mote, Peruvian-style hominy. The soup dates to the arrival of African slaves, who used the leftover meat and vegetable scraps Spanish landowners discarded to make flavorful new dishes.
Chaufa. Peruvian-style fried rice. Chaufa is a uniquely Peruvian word that emerged in Lima, where there are many Chinese-Peruvian families, including my own.
Chicha Morada. Nonalcoholic corn punch made from maíz morado (purple corn), fruits, and spices (page 224). Popular in the summertime as a punch, chicha morada can also be served hot, or used as the base for mazamorra morada, a purple corn pudding (page 243). Chicha morada is not the same as chicha de jora (or simply chicha), a traditional beerlike drink made from corn, fruit, and sugar traditionally fermented by saliva (today, barley is used).
Chifa. Local name for Peruvian-Chinese–style cooking. One of many uniquely Peruvian words in Spanish drawing on the culture’s strong Cantonese roots.
Chirimoya (Cherimoya). Large, green-skinned tropical fruit that the first Europeans dubbed the “pearl of the Andes,” with sweet, creamy flesh and an almost guavalike flavor. In Peru, the fruit is enjoyed out of hand or churned into cremoladas, or creamy sorbets. For more on chirimoyas, see sidebar, page 240.
Choclo. Several starchy varieties of large-kernel corn. See La Cocina, page 20.
Chorritos a la Chalaca. Mussels steamed and served with a spicy rocoto pepper–red onion–tomato salsa with plenty of lime juice. A specialty of Callao, Peru’s main seaport just west of Lima, and the inspiration behind my version of oysters a la chalaca.
Chuño. Naturally freeze-dried potatoes. See La Cocina, page 20.
Conchas a la Parmesana. Parmesan scallops with béchamel sauce. A classic dish that combines local ingredients like scallops and ají peppers with Italian Parmesan.
Criollo. Widely used term in Peru for anything involving the mix of local Quechua (the native language) and Spanish cultures. Peruvians of mixed descent (indigenous and European, African, or other immigrants) are also referred to as Criollos, or Creoles.
Estofados. General name for several Peruvian-style stews. Most begin with an aderezo, mix of seasonings, that make up the flavor base of the dish.
Gochujang. Korean fermented red chile paste. I use the paste, more of an L.A. influence, in my barbecue and other sauces. There really isn’t a good substitute.
Harina de Camote. Sweet potato starch. See La Cocina, page 20. Substitute: Japanese potato starch (katakuriko) or cornstarch.
Huacatay. An herb with an almost aniselike mint flavor that is native to the Andes. See La Cocina, page 20.
Jengibre. Ginger. See La Cocina, page 20.
Katakuriko. Japanese potato starch. See La Cocina, page 20.
Kinúwa.Quechua word for quinoa, the “mother grain” of the Incas. See sidebar, page 200.
Kiwicha. Amaranth, a grainlike seed related to quinoa that has also been cultivated in the Andes for thousands of years. See sidebar, page 200. Substitute: quinoa.
Kombu. A variety of dried kelp (seaweed) that gives many Japanese soups and sauces their distinct flavor. The flat, rectangular sheets add umami to sauces like ponzu. Brush off the salty, dried white residue with a damp cloth before using. There really isn’t a good substitute.
Leche de Tigre. “Tiger’s milk,” the base sauce for ceviche (page 78). Depending on the version, the sauce is traditionally made from fresh lime juice, ají amarillo or rocoto peppers, often ginger and/or garlic, and a small amount of pureed fish to add body and flavor.
Lima Beans. See Pallares.
Locro de Zapallo. Pumpkin stew. A very classic, old stew going back to the Incas made from pumpkins (or similar squash), potatoes, choclo corn, and usually queso fresco.
Maíz. Corn, both fresh and dried, is used extensively in Latin American cooking. See La Cocina, page 20, for the various types: choclo (fresh), and dried maíz chulpe, maíz morado, and maíz mote.
Manjar Blanco. A general term in Latin American countries used to described milk- and cream-based custards. In Peru, we refer to dulce de leche (“milk candy”) as manjar blanco, the caramel custard made from sweetened, condensed milk.
Marcianos. Peruvian-style ice pops frozen in long, thin plastic bags and eaten like push-up pops. Flavors often include regional fruits like lucuma and cherimoya.
Mirin. Japanese cooking wine made from fermented rice. The cooking version is sweeter and has less alcohol than most rice wines or sakes meant for drinking.
Miso. Japanese paste made from fermented and aged soybeans, salt, and rice, barley, or other grains. Store open packages of miso in the freezer for up to 2 months.
Akamiso. Commonly known as “red” miso. Akamiso is a darker color and often saltier than shiromiso and saikyo miso. It is bold enough to stand out in sauces with other strong flavors, like ají panca.
Saikyo Miso. A specialty miso from Kyoto. The lightest in color, saikyo miso is also the least salty and has a more subtle, balanced flavor than many other misos, which works well with many of my dishes. Substitute: shiromiso.
Shiromiso. Often called “white” miso, but really more of a light tan color, and used in miso soups. Compared to other misos, it has a midlevel saltiness that is good for milder dishes.
Paiche. Jurassic-era fish native to parts of the Amazon that has been a part of the local diet for thousands of years. The white flesh holds together well yet is very tender, so it is very versatile. Substitutes: firm, white-fleshed fish like corvina, striped bass, yellowtail, or halibut.
Pallares. Lima, or broad, beans, one of many native Peruvian beans grown along the coast for thousands of years. The beans have a firm texture and hold their shape well. For more on pallares, see sidebar, page 212.
Panko. Japanese-style bread crumbs. Their larger size yet almost delicate texture makes panko ideal for breading and frying.
Papas a la Huancaína. A dish of boiled potatoes with hard-boiled eggs and olives drenched in a creamy sauce. The chilled, creamy, ají amarillo–cheese sauce is named after the city in Peru’s central highlands, Huancayo, where it was introduced.
Papas Rellenas. Mashed potato cakes stuffed with spicy ground beef, hard-boiled eggs, and aceituna Botija olive sauce (page 179).
Papas Secas. Potatoes that have been boiled and dried for preservation and flavor. See La Cocina, page 20. There really isn't a good substitute.
Patitas. Traditional Afro-Peruvian stew made from slowly simmered pig trotters with ají peppers and other spices.
Picarones. Sweet potato and pumpkin squash fritters. A street vendor staple, picarones served with chancaca sauce were one of my favorite treats growing up.
Pisco. The national spirit of Peru. Authentic Peruvian pisco must be made from certain varieties of uvas, or grapes, and was traditionally distilled in small clay, amphora-shaped vessels similar to those used to make chicha, corn beer. For more on pisco, see sidebar, page 230.
Pollo a la Brasa. Peru’s famous rotisserie chicken marinated in a flavorful mixture of smoky ají panca paste, spices like cumin, soy sauce, and vinegar.
Ponzu. A tangy, citrusy, salty Japanese sauce made from soy sauce and yuzu juice flavored with bonito flakes, kombu, and other seasonings. The store-bought versions in the States are harsh and overpower food, with none of the delicate flavors of the ocean that you get with the homemade sauce (page 37).
Pulpo al Olivo. Octopus with creamy Botija olive sauce. A traditional coastal dish that was the inspiration for my Tiradito de Pulpo al Olivo (page 99).
Queso Fresco. Fresh, Spanish-style cow’s-milk cheese (known as queso blanco in Europe). In Peru, fresh cheese are often made with a blend of sheeps and cow’s milk that gives them a very balanced flavor. The packaged queso frescos at most grocery stores are pretty poor quality. Look for fresh blocks of queso fresco in the deli counter of good grocery stores or Latin markets. Substitute: feta.
Quinoa. See Kinúwa.
Rocoto Pepper. See Ají Peppers.
Rosquitas de Anis. Aniseed cookies braided and shaped like a wreath topped with sesame seeds and anise seeds (page 254).
Salchipapas. Sausage (salchi) and potatoes (papas). Lima’s famous street food-turned-fast-food dish of fried hot dogs or sausages and potatoes.
Salsa Criolla. The king of fresh Peruvian condiments. Made with freshly shaved or sliced red onions, lime juice, ají peppers, and salt. Served on sandwiches, ceviche, or with anything that needs a little crunch and tanginess.
Salsa de Soya. The generic name of soy sauce in Peru, but like Kleenex refers to tissue in the United States, we usually refer to soy sauce by the most popular brand name, Sillao. See La Cocina, page 20. See also: Tamari.
Salsa Madre. Mother sauce. A cook’s “secret sauce” of proprietary seasonings and ingredients.
Saltado. A Chinese-Peruvian style stir-fry. The most famous version, lomo saltado, is made with lomo (beef filet), red onions, tomatoes, and ají peppers.
Seco. A Criollo-style stew from northern Peru made with various meats or poultry that includes a dark green cilantro sauce. The word literally means “dry,” but slow-cooked secos are the opposite, very moist and flavorful.
Solerito. Saladlike dish from Arequipa in southern Peru traditionally made with lima beans, red onions, choclo corn, tomatoes, and ají peppers, among other ingredients. The name means “little bachelor.”
Tacacho. Smashed plantains mixed with pork and formed into patties and fried. The snack is especially popular in the Amazon, where it is made to order by street and market vendors.
Tacu Tacu. Leftover rice and beans are shaped into cakes and fried in this Afro-Peruvian dish.
Tamalitos Verdes. Mini tamales that are a specialty of the northern Andes region. Instead of flourlike masa, the main ingredient in Mexican tamales, Peruvian tamales are made with fresh choclo, a large-kernel, sweet corn.
Tamari. A wheat-free alternative to soy sauce with a slightly more intense flavor. See also: Salsa de Soya.
Tiraditos. Sliced raw or lightly seared fish typically served sashimi-style, typically in some type of bold, ají pepper and lime juice sauce. See sidebar, page 79.
Tobiko. Flying fish eggs, also known as “poor man’s caviar.” See sidebar, page 88.
Trigo. Barley, an ancient whole grain that arrived in Peru several hundred years ago via Spanish colonists. See La Cocina, page 20.
Yuca (Cassava Root or Manioc). Slightly sweet and nutty tuberous root vegetable indigenous to South America (not to be confused with yucca, a desert shrub). The boiled root has been used in traditional dishes dating back to the Moche and also to make fries and yuquitas (fritters, page 61). Available frozen at well-stocked grocery stores or Latin markets. If using the fresh root, peel well before using.
Yucas Fritas. Thick-cut fries made from native cassava root. Like a potato, cassava gets crispy on the outside but has a denser, almost creamy texture inside. The fries are the stand-in for french fries at many Peruvian restaurants and cafés.
Yuquitas. Cassava root fritters, a beignetlike version of yucas fritas, or cassava root fries. They are served alongside one of my favorite soups, sopa rachi, the Peruvian version of Cantonese-style congee.
Yuzu. A Japanese citrus fruit with a complex flavor, almost like a mix of lime and orange juices with the flowery scent of orange blossoms. The fresh citrus fruit can be difficult to find outside of Japan. Look for the frozen, unsweetened and unsalted juice (do not substitute bottled juices). Substitute: lime juice, in small quantities. For sauces like ponzu that rely on a lot of the juice for a balanced flavor, make mock yuzu juice (page 37).
Yuzu Kosho. Japanese chile pepper paste made from green (sometimes red) chile peppers, yuzu citrus zest and juice, and salt. See La Cocina, page 20.