YARMOUTH

Yarmouth, like neighboring Dennis, stretches from Cape Cod Bay to Nantucket Sound; it unfolds along quiet Route 6A and congested Route 28. It’s a family-oriented town, with golf courses, tennis courts, and town-sponsored sailing lessons, as well as quite a few southside oceanfront resorts.

Although Yarmouth’s 5.3-mile section of Route 28 was planted with more than 350 trees in 1989 (on its 350th birthday), the road is still a wall-to-wall sea of mini-golf courses, shops, fast-food places, and family-style attractions like a billiards emporium and boating on the Bass River. A larger-than-life plastic polar bear, a lunging shark, and an elephant epitomize the Cape’s kitschier side. They’re alternately viewed as icons and eyesores.

It’s difficult to imagine that Route 28 was once open land dotted with small farms and that Yarmouth’s ports bustled in the 19th century: Packets sailed to New York City and Newark from South Yarmouth at the Bass River. Today the scenic Bass River and South Yarmouth Historic District provide a delightful detour south of Route 28.

On the northside, Route 6A (a.k.a. Main Street) was settled in the 1600s, traveled by stagecoaches in the 1700s, and reached its height of prosperity in the 1800s, when it was lined with houses built for and by rope makers, sea captains, bankers, and shipbuilders. At one time, a mile-long section of Yarmouth Port was referred to as Captain’s Row, as it was home to almost 50 sea captains. Many former sea captains’ houses are now attractive B&Bs.

Stephen Hopkins, a Mayflower passenger, built the first house in Yarmouth in 1638 (off Mill Lane), and the town was incorporated just one year later. Today Yarmouth is the third most populous town on the Cape, with 24,000 year-round residents. Meander along tranquil Route 6A and you’ll find crafts and antiques shops, a quiet village green, a couple of fine historic houses open to the public, walking trails, and an antiquarian bookstore. Take any lane off Route 6A to the north, and you’ll find picturesque residential areas and the bay, eventually.

GUIDANCE Yarmouth Area Chamber of Commerce (508-778-1008; yarmouthcapecod.com), 424 Route 28, West Yarmouth. Along with a helpful chamber staff, the office has two self-guided historical tours of Yarmouth and Old South Yarmouth.

GETTING THERE By car: Yarmouth is 26 miles from the Cape Cod Canal; take Route 6 to Exit 7 for the northside (Yarmouth Port and Route 6A). For points along Route 28 on the southside, take Exit 7 south to Higgins Crowell Road for West Yarmouth. Take Exit 8 south for South Yarmouth and the Bass River.

GETTING AROUND By bus: If you need public transportation, inquire at the chamber about a bus that runs along Route 28 between Hyannis and Orleans, with stops in Yarmouth.

MEDIA The weekly Register (508-375-4945; wickedlocalcapecod.com) lists local happenings.

A PERFECT DAY IN YARMOUTH

8:30	Order an Irish farmhouse breakfast from the Keltic Kitchen.
10:00	Cruise Route 28 for mini-golf at Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf or bowling at Ryan Family Amusement Center.
12:00	Satisfy everyone in your party at Skipper’s or Jack’s (depending on what side you are on).
1:30	Get in touch with your quirky side at the Edward Gorey House.
3:00	Buy inflatable beach toys on Route 28 and head to Sea Gull Beach.
6:30	Have a relaxing and unusual dinner at the creative Inaho.

PUBLIC RESTROOMS On Route 6 between Exits 6 and 7; at the town hall, 1146 Route 28, South Yarmouth; and at Gray’s Beach (open seasonally, off Centre Street from Route 6A).

PUBLIC LIBRARIES Call ahead to the small branches in South Yarmouth (508-760-4820) and West Yarmouth (508-775-5206) or visit yarmouthlibraries.org.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Call 911.

Bass River Chiropractic (508-394-1353; bassriverhealthcare.com), 833 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Dr. Reida, an extraordinary chiropractor, dispenses healing when you are in pain on a holiday.

To See

Edward Gorey House (508-362-3909; edwardgoreyhouse.org), 8 Strawberry Lane, Yarmouth Port. Open mid-April to late December. Curious, surreal, bizarre, whimsical, and quirky: These have all been used to describe Gorey. His masterful pen-and-ink illustrations, as well as his offbeat sense of humor, endeared him to a wide audience. And the reputation he earned by doing the introductory credit for PBS’s Mystery propelled him even further. So did the Tony Award he won for costume design for the Broadway production of Dracula. Closer to home, when Gorey moved to the Cape full time in the early 1980s, he contributed greatly to local theater productions. The restored house contains exhibits celebrating this marvelous artist, who lived here until his death in 2000. $.

Hallet’s (508-362-3362), 139 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open April through December. Hallet’s has been a community fixture since it was built as an apothecary in 1889 by Thacher Taylor Hallet. It’s the oldest family-owned, old-fashioned soda fountain in the U.S. Today, great-grandson Charles owns and operates the store, which boasts an old-fashioned oak counter and a marble-topped soda fountain. As time stands still, sit on a swivel stool or in one of the wrought-iron, heart-shaped chairs beneath the tin ceiling and relax over an ice cream soda (the food’s not much to write home about). The second floor has been turned into something of a museum, documenting Yarmouth’s history as seen through one family’s annals and attic treasures. In addition to being a pharmacist (old medicine bottles are on display), T. T. Hallet was a postmaster (during his tenure, only 15 families had mail slots), selectman (the second floor was used as a meeting room from 1889 to the early 1900s), and justice of the peace. The charming displays include store posters from the past 100 years and historical photographs. Tours $.

EDWARD GOREY HOUSE

Village pump, Route 6A near Summer Street, Yarmouth Port. This wrought-iron pump has served the community since 1886. It’s located just west of the Old Yarmouth Inn, the oldest inn (and stagecoach stop) on the Cape, dating from 1696. The pump’s iron frame, decorated with birds, animals, and a lantern, is supported by a stone trough from which horses drank. Horse-drawn carriages traveling from Boston to Provincetown stopped here.

Captain Bangs Hallet House (508-362-3021; hsoy.org), 11 Strawberry Lane (park behind the post office on Route 6A), Yarmouth Port. Tours June to mid-October. The original section of this Greek Revival house was built in 1740 by town founder Thomas Thacher, but it was substantially enlarged by Capt. Henry Thacher in 1840. Captain Hallet and his wife, Anna, lived here from 1863 until 1893. The house, maintained by the Historical Society of Old Yarmouth, is decorated in a manner befitting a prosperous sea captain who traded with China and India. Note the original 1740 kitchen, and don’t miss the lovely weeping beech behind the house or the 1850 Gorham Cobbler Shop, which serves an archival research center. $.

HALLET’S

Winslow Crocker House (617-994-6661; historicnewengland.org), 250 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Tours June to mid-October. Set back from Route 6A, this two-story Georgian home was built in 1780 with 12-over-12 small-paned windows and rich interior paneling. The house was constructed for a wealthy 18th-century trader and land speculator and moved to its present location in 1936 by Mary Thacher, a descendant of Yarmouth’s original land grantee and an avid collector of 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century furniture. She used the house as a backdrop for her magnificent collection. $.

VILLAGE PUMP

Whydah Pirate Museum (508-534-9571, discoverpirates.com), 674 Route 28, West Yarmouth. This is more of an interactive science museum than the main Whydah museum in Provincetown (see To Do).

Baxter Grist Mill, 151 Route 28, West Yarmouth. Call Town Hall (508-398-2231, ext. 1292; hsoy.org) for opening hours. The original mill was built in 1710 with an exterior waterwheel. But in 1860, when water levels in Mill Pond became so low that the wheel froze, an indoor water turbine was added. (This is the Cape’s only mill with an indoor water turbine.) Kids can help grind corn with “the Mill Man.” Free.

Windmill Park, off River Street from Old Main Street, South Yarmouth. This eight-sided windmill on the Bass River was built in 1791 and moved here in 1866. This scenic spot also has a small swimming beach.

To Do

BASEBALL The Cape League (ydredsox.pointstreaksites.com) sponsors the Yarmouth–Dennis Red Sox. Games are held from mid-May to early August, typically at 5 PM at the Dennis-Yarmouth Regional High School, Station Avenue, South Yarmouth.

FISHING & SHELLFISHING Procure freshwater and saltwater fishing licenses and regulations online (mass.gov/eea/agencies/dfg/licensing).

CAPTAIN BANGS HALLET HOUSE

WINSLOW CROCKER HOUSE

Riverview Bait & Tackle (508-394-1036), 1273 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Among other services, the staff will direct you to local fishing spots, including the Bass River and High Bank Bridges, Sea Gull Beach at Parker’s River off South Shore Drive, and Smugglers Beach off South Street.

Shark Shark Tuna (774-212-0016; sharksharktuna.com), 17 Neptune Lane, South Yarmouth. Highly recommended fishing excursions.

Ship Shops (508-398-2256; shipshops.com/rentals), 130 Pleasant Street, Bass River. For all your powerboat rental needs when you know where to fish on your own.

FOR FAMILIES A playground is on Center Street in South Yarmouth; another is in Old Townhouse Park on Old Townhouse Road in South Yarmouth.

Ryan Family Amusement Center (508-394-5644; ryanfamily.com), 1067 Route 28, South Yarmouth. When rain strikes, head indoors to bowl away the blues. Ten-pin and candlepin. $$$.

Cape Cod Inflatable Park (508-771-6060; capecodinflatablepark.com), 518 Route 28, West Yarmouth. I didn’t get a chance to experience this place personally, but check out the website’s activities and decide for yourself if your kids would have fun here. $$–$$$.

GOLF King’s Way (508-362-8870; yportgolf.com), off Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open March to mid-November. A challenging Cornish and Silva course.

Bayberry Hills (508-394-5597; golfyarmouthcapecod.com), off West Yarmouth Road, West Yarmouth. Also with a driving range.

SCENIC DRIVES

South Yarmouth and the Bass River Historic District, on and around Old Main Street (off Route 28), South Yarmouth. The Pawkannawkut Indians (a branch of the Wampanoag tribe) lived, fished, and hunted on a tract of land Yarmouth set aside for them along Long Pond and the Bass River in 1713. But by the 1770s, a smallpox epidemic wiped out most of the Native population. In 1790 David Kelley, a Quaker, acquired the last remaining Pawkannawkut land from the last surviving Pawkannawkut, Thomas Greenough. Quakers then settled the side streets off Old Main Street near Route 28 and built handsome homes. The Historical Society of Old Yarmouth publishes a walking-tour brochure to Old South Yarmouth, which you can get at the chamber of commerce (see Guidance). Note the simple traffic rotary at River and Pleasant Streets; it’s thought to be the oldest in the country.

Yarmouth Port. From Route 6A, turn onto Church Street across from the village green. Follow it around to Thacher Shore Drive and Water Street. When Water Street turns left, head right down a dirt road for a wide-open view of marshland. Continue on Water Street across Keveney Bridge, which crosses Mill Creek; Keveney Lane takes you back to Route 6A. Turn left to head east, back into Yarmouth Port. This scenic loop is nice for a quiet walk, a bicycle ride, or an early-morning jog.

Bass River Golf Course (508-398-9079; golfyarmouthcapecod.com), 62 Highbank Road, South Yarmouth. Great views of the Bass River.

Blue Rock Golf Course (508-398-9295; bluerockgolfcourse.com), 48 Todd Road, off Highbank Road, South Yarmouth. A short course.

KAYAKING Great Marsh Kayak Tours (508-328-7064; greatmarshkayaktours.com), West Yarmouth. Unsure of where or how to kayak or unfamiliar with local tides? Check out these wonderful three-hour tours of Nauset Marsh (see Orleans), tidal marshes, and the Parker River (here in town).

MINI-GOLF Pirate’s Cove Adventure Golf (508-394-6200; piratescove.net), 728 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Open early April through October. At the granddaddy of all Cape mini-golf courses, kids have their choice of two 18-hole courses complete with lavish pirate-themed landscaping, extravagant waterfalls, and dark caves. Kids receive eye patches, flags, tattoos, and a jaunty pirate hat.

Skull Island Sports World (508-398-6070; skullislandcapecod.com), 934 Route 28 at Long Pond Road, South Yarmouth. Open April to early October. In addition to a “Swiss Family Treehouse” adventure mini-golf, Bass River lures families with baseball and softball batting cages, soccer cages, a game room, go-carts, and a driving range.

TENNIS The public can play at Flax Pond (off North Main Street from Route 28 in South Yarmouth); at Sandy Pond (from Route 28 in West Yarmouth, take Higgins Crowell Road to Buck Island Road); and at Dennis-Yarmouth Regional High School (from Route 28, take Station Avenue to Regional Avenue in South Yarmouth). All are free.

PIRATE’S COVE ADVENTURE GOLF

Green Space

BEACHES Some lodging places offer discounted daily beach stickers; don’t forget to ask. Weekly stickers for cottage renters are available at Town Hall (508-398-2231), 1146 Route 28, South Yarmouth.

Sea Gull Beach, off South Sea Avenue from Route 28, West Yarmouth. This is the longest, widest, and nicest of Yarmouth’s southside beaches, which generally tend to be small, narrow, and plagued by seaweed. The approach to the beach is lovely, with views of the tidal river. (The blue boxes you see, by the way, are fly traps—filled with Octenol, a synthetic version of ox breath, they attract the dreaded biting greenhead flies that terrorize sunbathers in July.) Facilities include a bathhouse, restrooms, and food service. Parking $$.

WALKS Botanical Trails of the Historical Society of Old Yarmouth, behind the post office and Captain Bangs Hallet House, off Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. This 1.5-mile trail, dotted with benches and skirting 60 acres of pines, oaks, and a pond, leads past rhododendrons, holly, lady’s slippers, and other delights. The trail begins at the gatehouse, which has a lovely herb garden. A spur trail leads to the profoundly simple Kelley Chapel, built in 1873 as a seaman’s bethel (a sacred space for sailors) by a father for his daughter, who was mourning the untimely death of her son. The interior contains a few pews, an old woodstove, and a small organ. It may be rented (508-360-9796) for small weddings and special events.

Taylor-Bray Farm, Bray Farm Road South, off Route 6A near the Dennis town line, Yarmouth Port. Open dawn to dusk. The Bray brothers purchased this land in the late 1800s and created a successful shipyard and farm. Now town-owned conservation land, this working farm offers a short walking trail and tidal-marsh views. It’s a nice place for a picnic. You can’t help but take a deep breath of fresh air here.

BOARDWALK, NOT PARK PLACE

Bass Hole (or Gray’s) Beach, off Centre Street from Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. The small, protected beach is good for children, but the real appeal lies in the Bass Hole Boardwalk, which extends across a marsh and a creek. From the benches at the end of the boardwalk you can see across to Chapin Memorial Beach in Dennis. It’s a great place to be at sunset, although you won’t be alone. The 2.5-mile Callery-Darling Trail starts from the parking lot and crosses conservation lands to the salt marsh. As you walk out into the bay, a mile or so at low tide, recall that this former harbor used to be deep enough to accommodate a schooner shipyard in the 18th century. Free parking; handicap ramp.

BASS HOLE BEACH AND BOARDWALK

Captain’s Mile. The Historical Society of Old Yarmouth has printed a booklet (look for it at the chamber of commerce or Captain Bangs Hallet House) that covers three walking tours of local sea captains’ houses along Route 6A. It’s an informative brochure and gives some perspective about the area.

Meadowbrook Road Conservation Area, off Route 28, West Yarmouth. This recommendation originally came from Joseph Molinari, a longtime explorer from New Jersey. A peaceful place to relax, this area has a 310-foot boardwalk with an observation deck that overlooks a swamp and salt marsh. Take Winslow Gray Road north from Route 28 in West Yarmouth. After a few miles, take Meadowbrook Lane to the right and park at the end.

See also Bass Hole (or Gray’s) Beach in the sidebar “Boardwalk, Not Park Place.” And, don’t forget about the walking-tour brochure published by the Historical Society of Old Yarmouth (see Guidance).

Lodging

Route 6A is lined with lovely B&Bs, while the southside generally appeals to families (with a couple of notable exceptions).

RESORT Red Jacket Beach Resort (508-760-9220; redjacketresorts.com), 1 South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth. Open early April to mid-October. Occupying 7 acres wedged between Nantucket Sound and the Parker’s River, this extensive complex courts families. Amenities include a large private beach, heated indoor and outdoor pools, a golf course, kiddie pool with water features, supervised children’s program, tennis, parasailing, kayaks, and Jet Skis. A family-style restaurant serves all three meals. All accommodations (150 rooms and 14 cottages) have their own deck or patio and in-room fridge. Rates vary considerably, according to view: near the hotel entrance, riverside or poolside, ocean view, and oceanfront (from least to most expensive). $$$–$$$$.

BED & BREAKFASTS Liberty Hill Inn (508-362-3976; libertyhillinn.com), 77 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Innkeepers John Hunt and Kris Srihadi offer the best bang for the buck in Cape Cod lodging. (Even more so now that they also rent a gloriously renovated house nearby! It’s perfect for a romantic weeklong stay or family reunions.) The former 1825 whaling tycoon’s home is nicely set back from Route 6A on a knoll. It features five comfortable rooms in the elegant main house and four in the adjacent post-and-beam-style carriage house. Light and airy rooms in the main inn benefit from lofty ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, a dramatic spiral staircase, and restored bathrooms. Crisp linens, triple sheeting, and arrival snack baskets are the norm. Next door, rooms might have a whirlpool, fireplace, or canopy bed. A sumptuous breakfast (served at individual tables) is included. $$.

LIBERTY HILL INN

THE INN AT CAPE COD

The Inn at Cape Cod (508-375-0590; innatcapecod.com), 4 Summer Street, Yarmouth Port. Helen and Mike Cassels, innkeepers since the mid-2000s, have brought this 1820s gem back to life through keen decorating skills and quintessential British hospitality. I love being surprised, and their attention to this Southern Plantation-style inn is a delight. The seven guest rooms and two suites (the latter with a separate sitting room and private balcony) are lovely and elegant. Each is equipped with a flat-screen TV and gas fireplace, and each features spacious, high ceilings and expertly renovated bathrooms. A four-course breakfast is served at individual tables in the sunny breakfast room or terrace. As you might expect, afternoon tea served fireside with homemade treats is worth returning for. There’s plenty of additional guest space, including elegant gardens, porches, and a sitting room with fireplace. $$–$$$.

The Belvedere (508-619-7639; the-belvedere-inn.com), 167 Old Main Street, South Yarmouth. Matt and Sara Fitzsimmons may only be three antique-filled rooms and a carriage house suite here, but what rooms they are: The early-19th-century house has been outfitted with the luxuries of the 21st century. They (and the whole house) have been completely renovated and restored with a casual elegance and historical charm that’s hard to match. A full breakfast is typically served on the screened-in porch. $$.

The King’s Inne (508-375-9109; kingsinne.com), 112 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open April through November. Completely renovated in 2010 by Carina and Paul Lewis, a lovely British couple, the King’s Inne offers three fancily decorated suites in a circa 1830s house. $–$$.

Village Inn (508-362-3182; thevillageinncapecod.com), 92 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open May to mid-October. If you want to understand genuine hospitality, stay with Robin and Claire, an Irish brother-and-sister team who took over this historic, colonial landmark in 2015. They provide a modest but spick-and-span, 10-room place for travelers to relax and interact, then toss in a few modern conveniences. When you’re looking for value, look no further. And when you’re here, walk five minutes down the adjacent lane to the old wharf on the water. $–$$.

Captain Farris House (508-760-2818; captainfarris.com), 308 Old Main Street, South Yarmouth. Open mid-February to early January. Located within a small pocket of historic homes off Route 28, the 1845 Captain Farris House offers understated elegance and luxurious modern amenities. Lovely window treatments, antiques, fine linens, and Jacuzzi tubs fill the guest rooms. Of the 10 rooms, four are suites, five have a fireplace, a few have a private deck, and most have a private entrance. A fancy three-course breakfast is served at individual tables in the courtyard or at one formal dining-room table. $$.

COTTAGES & MOTOR INNS Seaside (508-398-2533; seasidecapecod.com), 135 South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth. Open May to late October. These 41 one- and two-room cottages, built in the 1930s but nicely upgraded and well maintained, are very popular for their oceanfront location. Reserve by mid-March if possible; otherwise, cross your fingers. Sheltered among pine trees, the shingled and weathered units are clustered around a sandy barbecue area and sit above a 500-foot stretch of private beach. (A playground is next door.) Kitchens are fully equipped and linens are provided, as is daily maid service. Many of the tidy units have a working fireplace. The least-expensive units (without views) are decorated in 1950s style. Don’t bother with the motel efficiencies. $$–$$$.

Beach House at Bass River (508-394-6501; beachhousecapecod.com), 73 South Shore Drive, Bass River. Open early April to late October. This tasteful bilevel motor inn, built in the 1970s by Cliff Hagberg (who still operates it), sits on a 110-foot stretch of private Nantucket Sound beach. Each of the 26 rooms in the tidy complex is decorated differently with country antiques and wicker; generally the oceanfront rooms are a bit spiffier, with country-pine furnishings. All rooms have a private balcony or patio and a refrigerator. An expansive buffet breakfast is included. $$.

Ocean Mist (508-398-2633; oceanmistcapecod.com), 97 South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth. Open mid-May to mid-October. This shingled three-story complex fronting a 300-foot private Nantucket Sound beach offers 32 rooms and 32 loft suites. Each of the contemporary rooms has a wet bar or full efficiency kitchen, two double beds, and air-conditioning. Loft suites feature an open, second-floor sitting area—many of the rooms have ocean views, all have a sofa bed, many have skylights and two private balconies. Mixed reviews are warranted but it’s hard to beat the location for families. There’s also an indoor pool on the premises. $$–$$$.

RENTAL HOUSES Great Island Ocean Club (508-775-0985; greatislandoceanclub.com), off South Sea Avenue, West Yarmouth. Open April through November. This gated residential community has about 30 rental homes, fully equipped houses with one to six bedrooms. Best of all, they’re located on or within ¼ mile of a private Nantucket Sound beach. Off by itself, it’s a real find, perfect for families. Shared facilities include tennis courts and a pool. Reservations by mail only, from December until February. $$$.

Century 21–Sam Ingram Real Estate (508-362-8844; summerrentalscapecod.com).

Where to Eat

Route 6A has a couple of excellent restaurants, and while Route 28 is lined with dozens, most are not discernible from one another. I have reviewed only the few that are. If you’re staying on the southside and want more choice, check the entries in “Dennis.”

DINING OUT Inaho (508-362-5522; inahocapecod.com), 157 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open D. Year in and year out, this remains on my Top 10 Cape Cod list. Inaho continues to give patrons plenty of reason to remain loyal, offering some of the most sophisticated and authentic Japanese cuisine east of Tokyo. While fearless diners are handsomely rewarded with specials, the less adventurous revel in traditional tofu, teriyaki (the best I’ve had), bento box combinations, and miso soup. Then there is tempura, an exemplary metaphor for life: Wait too long to partake and the fleeting, perfect moment passes by. Meanwhile, over at the bar, intense concentration is focused on the Zen of sushi preparation. Save room for banana tempura or ginger ice cream. The only downside: You often have to wait because service can be slow. Reservations recommended. $$–$$$.

Old Yarmouth Inn (508-362-9962; oldyarmouthinn.com), 223 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open L, D. You have a choice to make at this 1696 inn, the oldest on the Cape: casual pub dining or fine dining in one of three dining rooms. The fireplaces and white linens in the main dining rooms create a cozy elegance, but I often end up at the low-key tavern, a former stagecoach stop. It’s just the perfect place for a grilled chicken Caesar, a cup of clam chowder, or a great burger. Lobster (baked, stuffed, in a roll, or whatever) is always a terrific choice. And the extensive Sunday buffet brunch is popular. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Gerardi’s Café (508-394-3111; gerardiscafe.com), 902 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Open L, D. This cute and casual place, with wooden booths, wooden chairs, a gas fireplace, and Oriental carpets, packs a big punch relative to its size. Thanks to chef Diego Gerardi, raised by restaurateurs in Boston’s North End and trained at the Costigliole d’Asti at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners, you can look with assurance for authentic Italian dishes like chicken Marsala and fettuccine Alfredo. You gotta love a place that knows what it is, doesn’t overreach, and executes with aplomb. D $$–$$$.

EATING OUT Keltic Kitchen (508-771-4835; keltickitchen.com), 415 Route 28, West Yarmouth. Open B (until 2 pm). Chef-owner and Irishman Dave Dempsey and his staff still sport thick brogues from the old country when they take your orders. How about an Irish farmhouse breakfast with rashers and black and white pudding or Keltic Bennys with poached eggs on an English muffin and corned beef hash? And despite having no ties to Ireland, the cranberry French toast, made with Portuguese bread, is a favorite. Lemon ricotta blueberry pancakes get raves as well. Come once to this friendly and cozy place and I bet you’ll come back again. Try the beef and barley soup for lunch. And dine outside in fine weather. $.

INAHO

OLD YARMOUTH INN

Skipper Chowder House (508-394-7406; skipperrestaurant.com), 152 South Shore Drive, South Yarmouth. Open L, D, mid-April to mid-October. With a name like this, the “chowdah’s” gotta rock—and it does! For a nice twist on two perennial faves, try the fried clam chowdah, which is fabu. Appetizers run the gamut from raw bar delicacies and Portuguese mussels to potato skins and buffalo wings; main dishes revolve around wicked awesome lobster variations, fish-n-chips and classic seafood rolls. Dine on the enclosed upper deck or on the patio, all the better to drink in the ocean. Save room for a little somethin’ somethin’ at their ice cream shack. Dishes $$.

Oliver’s & Planck’s Tavern (508-362-6062; oliverscapecod.com), 960 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open L, D. Oliver’s offers generous portions in cozy, tavernlike surroundings (or on the outdoor deck in summer). Oliver’s attracts an older crowd at lunchtime; longtime Cape residents who like to keep things simple; and families who need to satisfy everyone. Specialties include seafood flatbread and broiled seafood, but hearty sandwiches, steak tips, and fettuccini are also quite popular. Live entertainment on weekends. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Royal II Restaurant and Grill (508-362-2288; royalpizzagrill.com) 715 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open L,D. Don’t let the non-descript exterior fool you. This simple but pleasant family-friendly place offers fancy and traditional pizzas, classic Italian pasta dishes, some Mediterranean specialties like gyros and moussaka, and lots of requisite cheap eats like grinders, burgers, and fried seafood. (They also have a location on Lower Country Road in Dennis Port.) Dishes $$.

Jack’s Outback (508-362-6690), 161 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Open B, L. Classic American down-home cooking is served from an exposed, dinerlike kitchen. Get there early for fluffy omelets, pancakes, and popovers or be prepared to wait. $–$$.

Seafood Sam’s (508-394-3504; seafoodsamsyarmouth.com), 1006 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Open L, D February to mid-November. Sam’s offers reliable, informally presented, reasonably priced fried or broiled seafood. L $–$$, D $–$$$.

Entertainment

Band concerts (508-778-1008), Mattachesse Middle School band shell, Higgins Crowell Road, West Yarmouth. Monday night at 7 PM in July and August since 1970.

A BREED APART

Parnassus Book Service (508-362-6420; parnassusbooks.com), 220 Main Street, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Deliberately avoiding signs and categories, the Muse family (proprietors since forever) wants people to browse and dig around, perhaps finding a first edition James or Melville among the stacks. Specializing in maritime, Cape Cod, and ornithology, the Muses have been selling new, used, and rare books since the mid-1950s. Shelves line the wall outside, where the books are available for browsing or purchase on a 24/7 honor system. In its former incarnations, this 1840 building served as a general store and a church. This really is one unique shop.

PARNASSUS BOOK SERVICE

Entertainment Cinemas (508-760-1633), 2–6 Enterprise Road, South Dennis.

Selective Shopping

Unless otherwise noted, all shops are open year-round.

SPECIAL SHOPS Bass River Boatworks (508-398-4883), 1361 Route 28, South Yarmouth. Barely west of the Bass River, this crammed shop will satisfy nautical fanatics. Look for copper weather vanes, lightship baskets, marine antiques, custom-made glass display cases, lighthouse models, and ship-model kits. They also do lots of ship-model restoration. In fact, that’s their specialty.

Design Works (508-362-9698; designworkscapecod.com), 159 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Scandinavian country antiques, home furnishings, and accessories like throws, pillows, and linens.

Wilma’s Eclectic Finds for You (508-778-0123; wilmaseclectic.com), 618 Route 28, West Yarmouth. Wilma, and her eclectic consignment and thrift shop, are a treasure.

Special Events

Late May–late September: Art shows (yarmouthartguild.org). The Yarmouth Art Guild sponsors outdoor shows at the Cape Cod Cooperative Bank (Route 6A in Yarmouth Port) on many Sundays (10 AM–5 PM).

Mid-October: Seaside Festival (yarmouthseasidefestival.com). Begun in 1979, this festival features jugglers, clowns, fireworks, field games, a parade, sand castle competitions, arts and crafts, and bicycle, kayak, and road races.

Mid-November: Trolley Tour Taste of Yarmouth. Join the local culinary tour trend with this (new) annual event. More than a dozen restaurants participate, offering a variety of appetizer-sized dishes at each stop. Festivities are hosted at different venues each year.

Early December: Yarmouth Port Christmas Stroll (hsoy.org). Tree lighting on the village common, caroling, and special children’s activities; wreaths for sale.