Malasaña & Chueca
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Malasaña & Chueca
Malasaña and Chueca are more for doing than seeing. But with a handful of architectural stars (the Antiguo Cuartel de Conde Duque, the Museo de Historia, the Sociedad General de Autores y Editores, and Gran Vía’s marvellous facades), there’s plenty to turn your head as you skip from bar to shop and back to the bar again. The neighbourhoods’ squares – Plaza Dos de Mayo in particular – also provide much-needed breathing space as you wander the tightly packed streets.
Gran Vía STREET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
mGran Vía, Callao)
It’s difficult to imagine Madrid without Gran Vía, the grand boulevard lined with towering belle-époque facades that climbs up through the centre of Madrid from Plaza de España then down to Calle de Alcalá. But it has only existed since 1910, when it was bulldozed through a labyrinth of old streets. Fourteen streets disappeared off the map, as did 311 houses, including one where Goya had once lived. In 2018, Gran Vía will be transformed into a largely pedestrian thoroughfare.
Plans for the boulevard were first announced in 1862 and so interminable were the delays that a famous zarzuela (Spanish mix of theatre, music and dance), La Gran Vía, first performed in 1886, was penned to mock the city authorities. It may have destroyed whole barrios, but Gran Vía is still considered one of the most successful examples of urban planning in central Madrid since the late 19th century.
One eye-catching building, the Edificio Carrión (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Gran Vía & Calle de Jacometrezo; mCallao) was Madrid’s first pre-WWI tower-block apartment hotel. Also dominating the skyline about one-third of the way along Gran Vía is the 1920s-era Telefónica building (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Gran Vía; mGran Vía), which was for years the highest building in the city. During the civil war, when Madrid was besieged by Franco’s forces and the boulevard became known as ‘Howitzer Alley’ due to the artillery shells that rained down upon it, the Telefónica building was a favoured target.
Among the more interesting buildings is the stunning, French-designed Edificio Metrópolis (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Gran Vía; mBanco de España, Sevilla), built in 1907, which marks the southern end of Gran Vía. The winged victory statue atop its dome was added in 1975 and is best seen from Calle de Alcalá or Plaza de la Cibeles. A little up the boulevard is the Edificio Grassy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Gran Vía 1; mBanco de España, Sevilla), with the Rolex sign and built in 1916. With its circular ‘temple’ as a crown, and profusion of arcs and slender columns, it’s one of the most elegant buildings along Gran Vía.
Otherwise Gran Vía is home to around twice as many businesses (over 1050 at last count) as homes (nearly 600); over 13,000 people work along the street; and up to 60,000 vehicles pass through every day (including almost 185 buses an hour during peak periods). There are over 40 hotels on Gran Vía, but, sadly, just three of the 15 cinemas for which Gran Vía was famous remain.
Museo de Historia MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%91 701 16 86; www.madrid.es/museodehistoria; Calle de Fuencarral 78; 
h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; mTribunal) 
F
The fine Museo de Historia (formerly the Museo Municipal) has an elaborate and restored baroque entrance, raised in 1721 by Pedro de Ribera. Behind this facade, the collection is dominated by paintings and other memorabilia charting the historical evolution of Madrid. The highlights are Goya’s Allegory of the City of Madrid (on the 1st floor); the caricatures lampooning Napoleon and the early-19th-century French occupation of Madrid (1st floor); and the expansive model of Madrid as it was in 1830 (basement).
Sociedad General de Autores y Editores ARCHITECTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; General Society of Authors & Editors; Calle de Fernando VI 4; mAlonso Martínez)
This swirling, melting wedding cake of a building is as close as Madrid comes to the work of Antoni Gaudí, which so illuminates Barcelona. It’s a joyously self-indulgent ode to Modernisme (an architectural and artistic style, influenced by art nouveau and sometimes known as Catalan modernism) and is virtually one of a kind in Madrid. Casual visitors are actively discouraged, but what you see from the street is impressive enough. The only exceptions are on the first Monday of October, International Architecture Day, when its interior staircase alone is reason enough to come look inside.
Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 588 59 28; www.madrid.es/museoartecontemporaneo; Calle del Conde Duque 9-11; h10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun; mVentura Rodríguez) F
This rich collection of modern Spanish art includes mostly paintings and graphic art with a smattering of photography, sculpture and drawings. Highlights include Eduardo Arroyo and Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza. Running throughout the collection are creative interpretations of Madrid’s cityscape – avant-garde splodges and almost old-fashioned visions of modern Madrid side by side, among them a typically fantastical representation of the Cibeles fountain by one-time icon of la movida madrileña (the Madrid scene), Ouka Leele.
The museum is inside the Antiguo Cuartel del Conde Duque (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle del Conde Duque 9; mPlaza de España, Ventura Rodríguez, San Bernardo).
1Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
Madrid’s north has some remarkable sights. The Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida is one of the city’s richest treasures, while the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu is an icon in the world of sport. The only problem is that the many attractions are pretty far-flung, so be prepared to spend some time on the metro hopping from one to the other. The cluster of sights out west – Parque del Oeste, Faro de Madrid, Museo de América, Templo de Debod and Museo de Cerralbo – are an exception, not to mention wonderfully diverse.
oEstadio Santiago Bernabéu STADIUM
(%tickets 902 324324, tours 91 398 43 00/70; www.realmadrid.com; Avenida de Concha Espina 1; tours adult/child €25/18; htours 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-6.30pm Sun, except match days; mSantiago Bernabéu)
Football fans and budding Madridistas (Real Madrid supporters) will want to make a pilgrimage to the Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, a temple to all that’s extravagant and successful in football. Self-guided tours take you up into the stands for a panoramic view of the stadium, then through the presidential box, press room, dressing rooms, players’ tunnel and even onto the pitch. The tour ends in the extraordinary Exposición de Trofeos (trophy exhibit). Better still, attend a game alongside 80,000 delirious fans.
For tours of the stadium, buy your ticket at window 10 (next to gate 7).
oErmita de San Antonio de la Florida GALLERY
(Panteón de Goya; %91 542 07 22; www.sanantoniodelaflorida.es; Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun, hours vary Jul & Aug; mPríncipe Pío) F
The frescoed ceilings of the recently restored Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida are one of Madrid’s most surprising secrets. The southern of the two small chapels is one of the few places to see Goya’s work in its original setting, as painted by the master in 1798 on the request of Carlos IV. It’s simply breathtaking.
The frescoes on the dome depict the miracle of St Anthony, who is calling on a young man to rise from the grave and absolve his father, unjustly accused of his murder. Around them swarms a typical Madrid crowd.
The painter is buried in front of the altar. His remains (minus the mysteriously missing head) were transferred in 1919 from Bordeaux (France), where he died in self-imposed exile in 1828.
Guided visits run from 9.30am to 1pm Tuesday to Friday when there are enough people.
oTemplo de Debod RUINS
(Paseo del Pintor Rosales; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; mVentura Rodríguez) F
Yes, that is an Egyptian temple in downtown Madrid. The temple was saved from the rising waters of Lake Nasser in southern Egypt when Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser built the Aswan High Dam. After 1968 it was sent block by block to Spain as a gesture of thanks to Spanish archaeologists in the Unesco team that worked to save the monuments that would otherwise have disappeared forever.
Plaza de Olavide PLAZA
(mBilbao, Iglesia, Quevedo)
Plaza de Olavide is one of Madrid’s most agreeable public spaces, a real barrio special. But it hasn’t always had its current form. From 1934 the entire plaza was occupied by a covered, octagonal market. In November 1974, the market was demolished in a spectacular controlled explosion, opening up the plaza. To see the plaza’s history told in pictures, step into Bar Méntrida at No 3 to have a drink and admire the photos on the wall.
Museo Sorolla GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 310 15 84; www.mecd.gob.es/msorolla; Paseo del General Martínez Campos 37; adult/child €3/free; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; mIglesia, Gregorio Marañón)
The Valencian artist Joaquín Sorolla immortalised the clear Mediterranean light of the Valencian coast. His Madrid house, a quiet mansion surrounded by lush gardens that he designed himself, was inspired by what he had seen in Andalucía and now contains the most complete collection of the artist’s works.
Estación de Chamberí MUSEUM
(Andén 0; www.museomadrid.com/tag/anden-0-horario; cnr Calles de Santa Engracia & de Luchana; h11am-1pm & 5-7pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun; mIglesia, Bilbao) F
Estación de Chamberí, the long-lost ghost station of Madrid’s metro, is now a museum piece that recreates the era of the station’s inauguration in 1919 with advertisements from that time (including Madrid’s then-four-digit phone numbers), ticket offices and other memorabilia almost a century old. It’s an engaging journey down memory lane.
Faro de Madrid VIEWPOINT
(%91 544 81 04; Avenida de los Reyes Católicos; adult/concession/child €3/1.50/free; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun; mMoncloa)
After a decade closed, this supremely ugly Madrid landmark just in front of Museo de América reopened in 2015. It looks out over Parque del Oeste and has sweeping views of western Madrid. It was built in 1992 for the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America and to celebrate Madrid’s role that year as the European Capital of Culture. Sunset is the perfect time to visit.
Museo de América MUSEUM
(%91 549 26 41; www.mecd.gob.es/museodeamerica/el-museo.html; Avenida de los Reyes Católicos 6; adult/concession €3/1.50, free Sun; h9.30am-3pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 9.30am-7pm Thu, 10am-3pm Sun; mMoncloa)
Empire may have become a dirty word but it defined how Spain saw itself for centuries. Spanish vessels crossed the Atlantic Ocean to the Spanish colonies in Latin America, carrying adventurers one way and gold and other looted artefacts from indigenous cultures on the return journey. These latter pieces – at once the heritage of another continent and a fascinating insight into imperial Spain – are the subject of this excellent museum.
Parque del Oeste GARDENS
(Avenida del Arco de la Victoria; mMoncloa)
Sloping down the hill behind the Moncloa metro station, Parque del Oeste is quite beautiful, with plenty of shady corners where you can recline under a tree in the heat of the day and enjoy fine views out to the west towards Casa de Campo. It has been a madrileño favourite ever since its creation in 1906.
2Activities
Lab Room Spa SPA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 431 21 98; www.thelabroom.com; Calle de Claudio Coello 13; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat; mRetiro)
An exclusive spa and beauty parlour whose past clients include Penélope Cruz, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow and Gael García Bernal, the Lab Room is close to the ultimate in pampering for both men and women. It offers a range of make-up sessions, massages and facial and body treatments; prices can be surprisingly reasonable.
Hammam al-Andalus SPA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 90 20; http://madrid.hammamalandalus.com; Calle de Atocha 14; treatments €33-115; h10am-midnight; mSol)
Housed in the excavated cellars of old Madrid, this imitation of a traditional Arab bath offers massages and aromatherapy beneath graceful arches, accompanied by the sound of trickling water. Prices are cheapest from 10am to 4pm Monday to Friday; reservations required.
TTours
Devour Madrid Food Tour FOOD
(%695 111832; www.madridfoodtour.com; tours €50-130)
With five tours for different tastes and budgets, Devour Madrid shows you the best of Spanish food and wine in the centre of Madrid. Tours are themed: wine and tapas, flamenco, authentic local markets, history or (for the most serious foodies) the Ultimate Spanish Cuisine tour, which takes you to eight tasting stops in four hours.
Spanish Tapas Madrid FOOD
(%672 301231; www.spanishtapasmadrid.com; per person from €70)
Local boy Luis Ortega takes you through some iconic Madrid tapas bars, as well as offering tours that take in old Madrid, flamenco and the Prado.
Adventurous Appetites WALKING
(%639 331073; www.adventurousappetites.com; 4hr tours €50; h8pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
English-language tapas tours through central Madrid. Prices include the first drink but exclude food.
Insider’s Madrid WALKING
(%91 447 38 66; www.insidersmadrid.com; tours from €70)
An impressive range of tailor-made tours, including walking, shopping, fashion, fine arts, tapas, flamenco and bullfighting tours.
Wellington Society WALKING
(%609 143203; www.wellsoc.org; tours from €95)
A handful of quirky historical tours laced with anecdotes, led by the inimitable Stephen Drake-Jones.
Bike Spain CYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 559 06 53; www.bikespain.info; Calle del Codo; bike rental half-/full day from €12/18, tours from €30; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri Mar-Oct, 10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri Nov-Feb; mÓpera)
Bicycle hire plus English-language guided city tours by bicycle, by day or (Friday) night, as well as longer expeditions.
Visitas Guiadas Oficiales TOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Official Guided Tours; %902 221424; www.esmadrid.com/programa-visitas-guiadas-oficiales; Plaza Mayor 27; h4pm Thu & Fri, noon Sat & Sun; mSol) F
The official guided tours of the city are worth considering, although they’re much reduced from what they once were. Two routes (those on Thursday and Friday) are based on Madrid’s main monuments, but the two we like are the ‘Madrid of Cervantes’ (Saturday) and ‘Women in the History of Madrid’ (Sunday). Tours last for two hours and are in Spanish only.
To assure yourself of a place, turn up at (or ring) the tourist office on Plaza Mayor around 9am on the Monday before you want to take the tour.
CCourses
Flamenco
Fundación Conservatorio Casa Patas DANCING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 84 71; www.fundacioncasapatas.com; Calle de Cañizares 10; 1hr class from €40; mAntón Martín, Tirso de Molina)
There’s every conceivable type of flamenco instruction here, including dance, guitar, singing and much more. It’s upstairs from the Casa Patas flamenco venue.
Academia Amor de Dios DANCING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Centro de Arte Flamenco y Danza Española; %91 360 04 34; www.amordedios.com; 1st fl, Calle de Santa Isabel 5; mAntón Martín)
This is the best-known course for flamenco dancing (and probably the hardest to get into). Although it’s more for budding professionals (as the list of past graduates attests to) than casual visitors, it does have the odd Spanish-language ‘cursillo’ (little course) that runs for a day or more. It’s on the top floor of the Mercado de Antón Martín.
Even if you’re not keen to immerse yourself in the flamenco world, it may be worth stopping by just for a look.
Cooking
Alambique COOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 42 20; www.alambique.com; Plaza de la Encarnación 2; per person from €45; mÓpera, Santo Domingo)
Most classes here last from 2½ to 3½ hours and cover a range of cuisines. Most are conducted in Spanish, but some are in English and French.
Kitchen Club COOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 62 63; www.kitchenclub.es; Calle de Ballesta 8; mGran Vía, Callao)
Kitchen Club spans the globe with a range of courses just off the back of Gran Vía in the city centre. The Spanish cooking classes, conducted in Spanish, are especially popular. After each course there’s time to eat what you’ve cooked.
Apunto – Centro Cultural del Gusto COOKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 702 10 41; www.apuntolibreria.com; Calle de Hortaleza 64; per person from €55; mChueca)
This engaging little bookstore runs fun yet professional cooking classes across a range of cuisines.
Language
Universidad Complutense LANGUAGE
(%91 394 53 25; www.ucm.es/ccee/informacion; Secretaria de los Cursos para Extranjeros, Facultadole Filologia, Universidad Complutense; mCuidad Universitaria)
A range of language and cultural courses throughout the year. Courses range from 120 contact hours (12 hours per week) to 200-hour courses (20 hours per week).
International House LANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 141517; www.ihmadrid.es; Calle de Zurbano 8; mAlonso Martínez)
Intensive courses lasting two/four weeks cost €420/740 (20 hours per week) to €540/1040 (30 hours per week). Staff can organise accommodation with local families.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Flamenco FLAMENCO
(www.deflamenco.com; hMay)
Five days of fine flamenco music in one of the city’s theatres. Big names in recent years have included Enrique Morente, Carmen Linares and Diego El Cigala. Dates are movable.
Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador CULTURAL
(www.esmadrid.com; hMay)
Around 15 May Madrid’s patron saint is honoured with a week of nonstop processions, parties and bullfights. Free concerts are held throughout the city, and this week marks the start of the city’s bullfighting season.
Suma Flamenca FLAMENCO
(www.madrid.org/sumaflamenca; hJun)
A soul-filled flamenco festival that draws some of the biggest names in the genre to Teatros del Canal and some of the better-known tablaos (flamenco venues), such as Casa Patas, Villa Rosa and Corral de la Morería.
Día del Orgullo de Gays, Lesbianas y Transexuales LGBT
(www.orgullolgtb.org; hJun)
The colourful Gay Pride Parade, on the last Saturday in June, sets out from the Puerta de Alcalá in the early evening, and winds its way around the city in an explosion of music and energy, ending up at the Puerta del Sol.
Veranos de la Villa SUMMER FESTIVAL
(www.veranosdelavilla.com; hJul & Aug)
Madrid’s town hall stages a series of cultural events, shows and exhibitions throughout July and August, known as Summers in the City.
DCode MUSIC
(www.dcodefest.com; hSep)
Held in September at Madrid’s Complutense University, this terrific music festival gets better with each passing year. Franz Ferdinand, Liam Gallagher, Amaral and Kings of Convenience have been headline acts on a program that includes local and international groups.
Jazz Madrid MUSIC
(www.festivaldejazzmadrid.com; hNov)
Madrid’s annual jazz festival draws a prestigious cast of performers from across the globe and is an increasingly important stop on the European jazz circuit. Venues vary, from the city’s intimate jazz clubs to grander theatrical stages across town.
4Sleeping
Madrid has high-quality accommodation at prices that haven’t been seen in the centre of other European capitals in decades. Five-star temples to good taste and a handful of buzzing hostels bookend a fabulous collection of midrange hotels; most of the midrangers are creative originals, blending high levels of comfort with an often-quirky sense of style.
4Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
Hostal Madrid HOSTAL, APARTMENT€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 00 60; www.hostal-madrid.info; Calle de Esparteros 6; s €35-75, d €45-115, d apt €45-150; 
a
W; mSol)
The 24 rooms at this well-run hostal have exposed brickwork, updated bathrooms and a look that puts many three-star hotels to shame. They also have terrific apartments (ageing in varying stages of gracefulness and ranging in size from 33 sq metres to 200 sq metres) which have fully equipped kitchens, their own sitting area and bathroom.
Hotel JC Rooms Puerta del Sol HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 559 40 14; www.jchoteles-puertadelsol.com; Calle de la Flora; r €40-62; a
iW; mÓpera)
Colourful rooms adorned with large photos of Madrid’s attractions are reason enough to stay here, with the central location and outrageously reasonable prices added bonuses. Some of the rooms are a bit small, but otherwise it’s an excellent choice.
oCentral Palace Madrid HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 548 20 18; www.centralpalacemadrid.com; Plaza de Oriente 2; d without/with view €90/160; aW; mÓpera)
Now here’s something special. The views alone would be reason enough to come to this hotel and definitely worth paying extra for – rooms with balconies look out over the Palacio Real and Plaza de Oriente. The rooms themselves are lovely and light filled, with tasteful, subtle faux-antique furnishings, comfortable beds, light wood floors and plenty of space.
The Hat Madrid HOTEL, HOSTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 772 85 72; www.thehatmadrid.com; Calle Imperial 9; dm/r/apt from €20/65/110; aiW; mSol, La Latina)
The Hat Madrid is an excellent choice just down the hill from Plaza Mayor that manages to span all budgets without cheapening the experience. The dorms are lovely and light-filled and you’re not made to feel like a second-class citizen. Equally the rooms and apartments have a lovely fresh look. Friendly service rounds out a wonderful experience in a couldn’t-be-more-central location.
Hotel Meninas BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 541 28 05; www.hotelmeninas.com; Calle de Campomanes 7; s/d from €85/95; aW; mÓpera)
This is a classy, cool choice. The colour scheme is blacks, whites and greys, with dark-wood floors and splashes of fuchsia and lime green. Flat-screen TVs in every room, modern bathroom fittings, and even a laptop in some rooms, round out the clean lines and latest innovations. Past guests include Viggo Mortensen and Natalie Portman. Some rooms are on the small side.
Barceló Torre de Madrid HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 524 23 99; www.barcelo.com; Plaza de España 18; d €180-310; iW
s; mPlaza de España)
This five-star hotel occupies nine floors of Torre Madrid, one of the city’s most iconic buildings. With views of the Royal Palace and Gran Vía, a modern design and large comfortable rooms and suites, it’s for the discerning traveller. Guests can enjoy the wellness centre, and anyone can step into the bright and inviting lobby bar for a drink.
4La Latina & Lavapiés
Mola! Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %663 624143; www.molahostel.com; Calle de Atocha 16; dm €15-20, d from €53; aiW; mSol, Tirso de Molina)
This sparkling new hostel overlooking the Plaza de Jacinto Benavente in the heart of town is a terrific deal. Rooms are colourful, warmly decorated and well sized, and dorms (with four to 10 beds) are rather stylish. It’s a friendly place where the staff are eager to connect you with other travellers and help you to make the most of your time in Madrid.
Hostal Fonda Horizonte HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 369 09 96; www.hostalhorizonte.com; 2nd fl, Calle de Atocha 28; s/d €45/62 with shared bathroom €33/50; W; mAntón Martín)
Billing itself as a hostal run by travellers for travellers, Hostal Horizonte is a well-run place. Rooms have far more character than your average hostal, with high ceilings, deliberately old-world furnishings and modern bathrooms. The King Alfonso XII room is especially well presented.
Mad Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 506 48 40; www.madhostel.com; Calle de la Cabeza 24; dm incl breakfast €24-30; aiW; mAntón Martín)
From the people who brought you Cat’s Hostel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 369 28 07; www.catshostel.com; Calle de Cañizares 6; dm €12-27; aiW; mAntón Martín), Mad Hostel is similarly filled with life. The 1st-floor courtyard – with retractable roof – recreates an old Madrid corrala and is a wonderful place to chill, while the four- to eight-bed dorm rooms are smallish but clean. There’s a small, rooftop bar.
oPosada del León de Oro BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 119 14 94; www.posadadelleondeoro.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 12; d/ste from €102/155; aW; mLa Latina)
This rehabilitated inn has muted colour schemes and generally large rooms. There’s a corrala (traditional internal or communal patio) at its core and thoroughly modern rooms along one of Madrid’s best-loved streets. The downstairs bar is terrific.
Posada del Dragón BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 119 14 24; www.posadadeldragon.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 14; s/d from €73/85; aW; mLa Latina)
At last a boutique hotel in the heart of La Latina. This restored 19th-century posada sits on one of our favourite Madrid streets, and rooms either look out over it or the pretty internal patio. Most of the rooms are on the small side but have extremely comfortable beds and bold, brassy colour schemes and designer everything. There’s a terrific bar-restaurant downstairs.
4Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
Hostal Adriano HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 13 39; www.hostaladriano.com; 4th fl, Calle de la Cruz 26; s/d from €50/60; aW; mSol)
They don’t come any better than this bright and friendly hostel wedged in the streets that mark the boundary between Sol and Huertas. Most rooms are well sized and each has its own colour scheme. Indeed, more thought has gone into the decoration than in your average hostal, from the bed covers to the pictures on the walls.
On the same floor, the owners run the Hostal Adria Santa Ana (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 13 39; www.hostaladriasantaana.com; 4th fl, Calle de la Cruz 26; s/d €65/75; aW; mSol), which is a step up in price, style and comfort. Both hostales drop their prices in summer.
Hostal Luis XV HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 10 21; www.hrluisxv.net; 8th fl, Calle de la Montera 47; s/d/tr €58/73/88; aW; mGran Vía)
The spacious rooms, attention to detail and pretty much everything else make this family-run hostal feel pricier than it is. You’ll find it hard to tear yourself away from the balconies outside every exterior room, from where the views are superb (especially from the triple in room 820). You’re so high up that noise is rarely a problem.
oPraktik Metropol BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 29 35; www.praktikmetropol.com; Calle de la Montera 47; s/d from €90/100; aW; mGran Vía)
You’d be hard-pressed to find better value anywhere in Europe than here in this overhauled hotel. Rooms have a fresh, contemporary look with white wood furnishings, and some (especially the corner rooms) have brilliant views down to Gran Vía and out over the city. It’s spread over six floors and there’s a roof terrace if you don’t have a room with a view.
oHotel Alicia BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 389 60 95; www.room-matehoteles.com; Calle del Prado 2; d €125-175, ste from €200; aW; mSol, Sevilla, Antón Martín)
One of the landmark properties of the designer Room Mate chain of hotels, Hotel Alicia overlooks Plaza de Santa Ana with beautiful, spacious rooms. The style (the work of designer Pascua Ortega) is a touch more muted than in other Room Mate hotels, but the supermodern look remains intact, the downstairs bar is oh-so-cool, and the service is young and switched on.
Catalonia Las Cortes HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 389 60 51; www.hoteles-catalonia.es; Calle del Prado 6; s/d from €150/175; aW; mAntón Martín)
Occupying an 18th-century palace and renovated in a style faithful to the era, this elegant hotel is a terrific choice right in the heart of Huertas. It’s something of an oasis surrounded by the nonstop energy of the streets in this barrio. Service is discreet and attentive and the hotel gets plenty of return visitors, which is just about the best recommendation we can give.
NH Collection Palacio de Tepa HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 389 64 90; www.nh-collection.com; Calle de San Sebastián 2; d from €175; aW; mAntón Martín)
Inhabiting a 19th-century palace a stone’s throw from Plaza de Santa Ana, this flagship property of the respected NH chain has modern designer rooms with hardwood floors and soothing colours. Service is professional and the location is outstanding. The premium rooms and junior suites in particular have real class.
Hotel Vincci Soho HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 141 41 00; www.vinccihoteles.com; Calle del Prado 18; d from €145; aW; mSevilla, Antón Martín)
A refined sense of style permeates everything about this hotel, from the subtly lit common areas to the rooms that combine vaguely Zen aesthetics with blood-red bathrooms. As ideal a base for the museums along the Paseo del Prado as for the clamour of central Madrid, it gets most things right.
Hotel Urban LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 787 77 70; www.derbyhotels.com; Carrera de San Jerónimo 34; r from €230; aWs; mSevilla)
This towering glass edifice is the epitome of art-inspired designer cool. It boasts original artworks from Africa and Asia; dark-wood floors and dark walls are offset by plenty of light; and the dazzling bathrooms have wonderful designer fittings – the washbasins are sublime. The rooftop swimming pool is one of Madrid’s best and the gorgeous terrace is heaven on a candlelit summer’s evening.
Me Melía Reina Victoria LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 701 60 00; www.melia.com; Plaza de Santa Ana 14; r from €175; aW; mSol, Antón Martín)
Once the landmark Gran Victoria Hotel, the Madrid home of many a famous bullfighter, this audacious hotel is a landmark of a different kind. Overlooking the western end of Plaza de Santa Ana, this luxury hotel is decked out in minimalist white with curves and comfort in all the right places.
4El Retiro & the Art Museums
oLapepa Chic B&B B&B€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %648 474742; www.lapepa-bnb.com; 7th fl, Plaza de las Cortes 4; s/d from €58/64; aW; mBanco de España)
A short step off Paseo del Prado and on a floor with an art-nouveau interior, this fine little B&B has lovely rooms with a contemporary, clean-line look so different from the dour hostal furnishings you’ll find elsewhere. Modern art or even a bedhead lined with flamenco shoes gives the place personality in bucketloads. It’s worth paying extra for a room with a view.
o60 Balconies Atocha APARTMENT€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 755 39 26; www.60balconies.com; Plaza del Emperador Carlos V 11; apt €125-255; aW; mAtocha)
As convenient for Atocha train station as for the city’s major art galleries, and well connected to the rest of the city on foot or by metro, 60 Balconies is an exciting new project by a dynamic young architectural team. The apartments range from 31-sq-metre studios up to 103-sq-metre, three-bedroom apartments, all stylish, spacious and a wonderful alternative to hotels.
Another similarly excellent property is over in Chueca.
Westin Palace LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 360 80 00; www.westinpalacemadrid.com; Plaza de las Cortes 7; d/ste from €200/470; aW; mBanco de España, Antón Martín)
An old Madrid classic, this former palace of the Duque de Lerma opened as a hotel in 1911 and was Spain’s second luxury hotel. Ever since it has looked out across Plaza de Neptuno at its rival, the Ritz, like a lover unjustly scorned. It may not have the world-famous cachet of the Ritz, but it’s not called the Palace for nothing.
4Salamanca
VP El Madroño BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%91 198 30 92; www.madrono-hotel.com; Calle del General Díaz Porlier 101; d/tr from €105/125; aW; mDiego de León)
You’re a long way from touristy Madrid out here, not far from the bullring, and therein lies part of this swish place’s appeal. All of the rooms have been renovated, either in a vaguely classic style or with more contemporary designer flair. It also has family rooms and there’s even a lovely garden out back.
Petit Palace Art Gallery HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 435 54 11; www.petitpalaceartgallerymadrid.com; Calle de Jorge Juan 17; d from €90; aW; mSerrano)
Occupying a stately 19th-century Salamanca building, this landmark property of the Petit Palace chain is a lovely designer hotel that combines hi-tech facilities with an artistic aesthetic with loads of original works dotted around the public spaces and even in some of the rooms. Hydro-massage showers, laptops and exercise bikes in many rooms are just some of the extras, and the address is ideal for the best of Salamanca.
Villa Magna HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 587 12 34; www.villamagna.es; Paseo de la Castellana 22; d €335-420, ste from €450; 
paW; mRubén Dario)
This is a very Salamanca address, infused as it is with elegance and impeccable service. The look is brighter than you might imagine with the use of Empire chairs, Bauhaus ideas and even Chinese screens. Rooms are studiously classic in look with supremely comfortable furnishings and plenty of space. No expense has been spared in the rooftop suites.
4Malasaña & Chueca
oHostal Main Street Madrid HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 548 18 78; www.mainstreetmadrid.com; 5th fl, Gran Vía 50; r from €55; aW; mCallao, Santo Domingo)
Excellent service is what travellers rave about here, but the rooms – modern and cool in soothing greys – are also some of the best hostal rooms you’ll find anywhere in central Madrid. It’s an excellent package, and not surprisingly, they’re often full, so book well in advance.
Hostal La Zona HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 99 04; www.hostallazona.com; 1st fl, Calle de Valverde 7; s €38-58, d €50-70, all incl breakfast; aW; mGran Vía)
Catering primarily to a gay clientele, the stylish Hostal La Zona has exposed brickwork, subtle colour shades and wooden pillars. We like a place where a sleep-in is encouraged – breakfast is served from 9am to noon, which is exactly the understanding Madrid’s nightlife merits. Arnaldo and Vincent are friendly hosts.
Flat 5 Madrid HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 127 24 00; www.flat5madrid.com; 5th fl, Calle de San Bernardo 55; s/d with private bathroom €55/70, r with shared bathroom from €48; aW; mNoviciado)
Unlike so many hostales in Madrid where the charm depends on a time-worn air, Flat 5 Madrid has a fresh, clean-line look with bright colours, flat-screen TVs and flower boxes on the window sills. Even the rooms that face onto a patio have partial views over the rooftops. If the rooms and bathrooms were a little bigger, we’d consider moving in.
Life Hotel HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 42 96; www.hotellifemadrid.es; Calle de Pizarro 16; s/d from €42/58; aW; mNoviciado)
If only all places to stay were this good. This place inhabits the shell of an historic Malasaña building, but the rooms are slick and contemporary with designer bathrooms. You’re also just a few steps up the hill from Calle del Pez, one of Malasaña’s most happening streets. It’s an exceptionally good deal, even when prices head upwards.
Casa Chueca HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 81 27; www.casachueca.com; 2nd fl, Calle de San Bartolomé 4; s/d from €45/62; W; mGran Vía)
If you don’t mind lugging your bags up to the 2nd floor, Casa Chueca is outstanding. Rooms are modern, colourful and a cut above your average hostal; in keeping with the barrio that it calls home, Casa Chueca places a premium on style. Add casual, friendly service and you’d be hard-pressed to find a better price-to-quality ratio anywhere in central Madrid.
Hostal Don Juan HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 31 01; www.hostaldonjuan.net; 2nd fl, Plaza de Vázquez de Mella 1; s/d/tr €40/56/75; aW; mGran Vía)
Paying cheap rates for your room doesn’t mean you can’t be treated like a king. This elegant two-storey hostal is filled with original artworks and antique furniture that could grace a royal palace, although mostly it resides in the public areas. Rooms are large and simple but luminous; most have a street-facing balcony.
The location is good, close to where Chueca meets Gran Vía.
o60 Balconies Recoletos APARTMENT€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 755 39 26; www.60balconies.com; Calle del Almirante 17; apt €132-212; aW; mChueca)
In a classy corner of Chueca, these architect-designed apartments, ranging from 45 sq metre up to 130 sq metre, are stylish and make you feel like you’ve found your own Madrid pad. They’re a similar deal to their Atocha property and rank among the best apartment choices in town.
Only You Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 005 22 22; www.onlyyouhotels.com; Calle de Barquillo 21; d €200-280; aiW; mChueca)
This stunning boutique hotel makes perfect use of a 19th-century Chueca mansion. The look is classy and contemporary thanks to respected interior designer Lázaro Rosa-Violán. Nice touches include all-day à la carte breakfasts and a portable router that you can carry out into the city to stay connected.
Hotel Abalú BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 47 44; www.hotelabalu.com; Calle del Pez 19; d €75-120, ste from €150; aW; mNoviciado)
Malasaña’s very own boutique hotel is starting to age and the word on the street is that it’s not what it was. We know what they mean but the rooms are still good, it’s located on cool Calle del Pez and each room (some on the small side) has its own design drawn from the imagination of designer Luis Delgado.
Hotel Óscar BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 701 11 73; www.room-matehoteles.com; Plaza de Vázquez de Mella 12; d €90-195, ste from €150; aW; mGran Vía)
Hotel Óscar belongs to the highly original Room Mate chain of hotels. Designer rooms are stylish and sophisticated, some with floor-to-ceiling murals. The lighting is always cool, and the colour scheme has splashes of pinks, lime greens, oranges or more-minimalist black and white.
The Principal Madrid HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 87 43; www.theprincipalmadridhotel.com; Calle Marqués de Valdeiglesias 1; r €210-360, ste from €460; aiW; mSevilla)
Just off the pretty end of Gran Vía and within sight of one of its more charming landmarks, the Edificio Metrópolis, the Principal is a fine, central choice. Some of the standard rooms are on the small side for a five-star hotel, but those with views towards Gran Vía are splendid. The pocket-wi-fi device is a nice touch.
4Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
oApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini APARTMENT€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 198 32 90; www.jardinesdesabatini.com; Cuesta de San Vicente 16; studio without/with views from €85/110, ste without/with views from €125/150; aW; mPlaza de España, Príncipe Pío)
Modern, spacious studios and suites are only half the story at this terrific property just down the hill from Plaza de España. Definitely pay extra for a room with a view and the studios with a balcony and uninterrupted views over the lovely Jardines de Sabatini to the Palacio Real – simply brilliant. The Campo del Moro is just across the road.
oHotel One Shot Luchana 22 HOTEL€€
(%91 292 29 40; www.hoteloneshotluchana22.com; Calle de Luchana 22; r €105; aW; mBilbao)
Classy, contemporary rooms in an early-20th-century, neoclassical palace close to Plaza de Olavide in Chamberí make for a pleasant alternative to staying downtown. The wrap-around loft has abundant light and a modern four-poster bed.
oHotel Orfila HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 702 77 70; www.hotelorfila.com; Calle de Orfila 6; r from €225; paW; mAlonso Martínez)
One of Madrid’s best hotels, Hotel Orfila has all the luxuries of any five-star hotel – supremely comfortable rooms, for a start – but it’s the personal service that elevates it into the upper echelon; regular guests get bathrobes embroidered with their own initials. An old-world elegance dominates the decor, and the quiet location and sheltered garden make it the perfect retreat at day’s end.
oHotel Silken Puerta América LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(%91 744 54 00; www.hoteles-silken.com; Avenida de América 41; d/ste from €140/275; paW; mCartagena)
Given the location of their hotel (halfway between the city and the airport) the owners knew they had to do something special – to build a self-contained world so innovative and luxurious that you’d never want to leave. Their idea? Give 22 of architecture’s most creative names (eg Zaha Hadid, Norman Foster, Ron Arad, David Chipperfield, Jean Nouvel) a floor each to design.
The result is an extravagant pastiche of styles, from zany montages of 1980s chic to bright-red bathrooms that feel like a movie star’s dressing room. Even the bar (‘a temple to the liturgy of pleasure’), restaurant, facade, gardens, public lighting and car park had their own architects. It’s an extraordinary, astonishing place.
5Eating
Madrid has transformed itself into one of Europe’s culinary capitals, not least because the city has long been a magnet for people (and cuisines) from all over Spain. Travel from one Spanish village to the next and you’ll quickly learn that each has its own speciality; travel to Madrid and you’ll find them all.
5Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
oMercado de San Miguel TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 542 49 36; www.mercadodesanmiguel.es; Plaza de San Miguel; tapas from €1.50; h10am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; mSol)
This is one of Madrid’s oldest and most beautiful markets, within early-20th-century glass walls and an inviting space strewn with tables. You can order tapas and sometimes more substantial plates at most of the counter-bars, and everything here (from caviar to chocolate) is as tempting as the market is alive. Put simply, it’s one of our favourite experiences in Madrid.
All the stalls are outstanding, but you could begin with the fine fishy pintxos (Basque tapas) atop mini toasts at La Casa de Bacalao (Stalls 16–17), follow it up with some jamón or other cured meats at Carrasco Guijuelo (Stall 18), cheeses at Stalls 20–21, all manner of pickled goodies at Stall 22, or the gourmet tapas of Lhardy (Stalls 61–62). There are also plenty of places to buy wine, Asturian cider and the like; at Stall 24, The Sherry Corner has sherry tastings with tapas.
oGourmet Experience FOOD HALL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.elcorteingles.es; 9th fl, Plaza del Callao 2; mains €8-20; h10am-10pm; mCallao)
Ride the elevator up to the 9th floor of the El Corte Inglés department store for one of downtown Madrid’s best eating experiences. The food is excellent, with everything from top-notch tapas or sushi to gourmet hamburgers, and the views fabulous, especially those that look over Plaza del Callao and down Gran Vía.
El Pato Mudo SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 559 48 40; elpatomudo@hotmail.es; Calle Costanilla de los Ángeles 8; mains €13-24; h1-4pm & 8-11.30pm Wed-Sun; mÓpera)
El Pato Mudo isn’t the most famous paella restaurant in Madrid, but it’s known to locals for its variety of outstanding rice dishes at reasonable prices. Specialities include black rice with squid ink, soupy rice, authentic paella valenciana and shellfish paella. Served directly from the pan for two or more people, they go well with the local wines.
Taberna del Alabardero SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 25 77; www.grupolezama.es; Calle de Felipe V 6; bar raciones €6-26, restaurant mains €20-28; hnoon-1am; mÓpera)
This fine old Madrid taberna (tavern) is famous for its croquettes, fine jamón, montaditos de jamón (small rolls of cured ham) and montaditos de bonito (small rolls of cured tuna) in the bar, while out the back the more classic cuisine includes rabo de toro estofado (bull’s tail, served with honey, cinnamon, mashed potato and pastry with herbs).
Taberna La Bola SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 69 30; www.labola.es; Calle de la Bola 5; mains €8-25; h1.30-4.30pm & 8.30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun, closed Aug; mSanto Domingo)
Going strong since 1870 and run by the sixth generation of the Verdasco family, Taberna La Bola is a much-loved bastion of traditional Madrid cuisine. If you’re going to try cocido a la madrileña (meat-and-chickpea stew; €21) while in Madrid, this is a good place to do so. It’s busy and noisy and very Madrid.
El Anciano Rey de los Vinos SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 559 53 32; www.elancianoreydelosvinos.es; Calle de Bailén 19; mains €9-20; h8.30am-midnight Wed-Mon; mSol)
With outdoor seating that gives you an unbeatable view of the cathedral, this bar has been serving its unique house wine – a sweet number similar to moscatel – since it opened in 1909. Food specialities include cazuela del anciano (shellfish stew featuring octopus and prawns) and regalitos de toro (crispy puff pastry stuffed with oxtail and red peppers).
oRestaurante Sobrino de Botín CASTILIAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 42 17; www.botin.es; Calle de los Cuchilleros 17; mains €18-27; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight; mLa Latina, Sol)
It’s not every day that you can eat in the oldest restaurant in the world (as recognised by the Guinness Book of Records – established in 1725). The secret of its staying power is fine cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb) cooked in wood-fired ovens. Eating in the vaulted cellar is a treat.
Restaurante Sandó CONTEMPORARY SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 547 99 11; www.restaurantesando.es; Calle de Isabel la Católica 2; mains €16-28, menú de degustación €49; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat; mSanto Domingo)
Juan Mari Arzak, one of Spain’s most famous chefs, has finally set up shop in Madrid just off Plaza de Santo Domingo. Bringing Basque innovation to bear upon local tradition, its cooking is assured with dishes like tuna chunks with ginger and hibiscus. If you can’t decide, try the menú de degustación or head around the corner to the tapas bar.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
WHAT’S COOKING IN MADRID?
Cocido a la madrileña (Madrid meat and-chickpea hotpot) Taberna La Bola, Lhardy or Malacatín
Cordero o cochinillo asado (roast lamb or suckling pig) Restaurante Sobrino de Botín
Sopa de ajo (garlic soup) Posada de la Villa
Callos a la madrileña (Madrid-style tripe) Taberna La Bola
Huevos rotos (potatoes cooked with eggs and jamón) Casa Lucio or Almendro 13
5La Latina & Lavapiés
La Latina is Madrid’s best barrio for tapas, complemented by a fine selection of sit-down restaurants. If you’re planning only one tapas crawl while in town, do it here in Calle de la Cava Baja and the surrounding streets.
Lavapiés is more eclectic and multicultural and, generally speaking, the further down the hill you go, the better it gets, especially along Calle de Argumosa.
Bar Melo’s TAPAS€
(%91 527 50 54; www.facebook.com/barmeloslavapies; Calle del Ave María 44; mains from €7.50; h2.30pm-1.30am Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mLavapiés)
There’s no tradition of kebab shops for midnight attacks of the munchies, but there’s always Bar Melo’s. One of those Spanish bars that you’d normally walk past without a second glance, Bar Melo’s is famous across the city for its zapatillas – great, spanking bocadillos (filled rolls) of lacón (cured shoulder of pork) and cheese.
Bar Santurce SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %646 238303; www.barsanturce.com; Plaza General Vara del Rey 14; bocadillos/raciones from €2.50/4.50; hnoon-4pm Tue & Wed, noon-4pm & 7.30-10.30pm Thu-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; mLa Latina)
This basic bar is famous for its sardinas a la plancha (sardines cooked on the grill) and pimientos de padrón (fiery green peppers). It’s wildly popular on Sundays during El Rastro market when it can be difficult to even get near the bar. The media ración (half serve) of six sardines for €2.50 is Madrid’s best bargain.
oTaberna Matritum MODERN SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 82 37; www.tabernamatritum.es; Calle de la Cava Alta 17; mains €13-19.50; h1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Wed-Sun, 8.30pm-midnight Mon & Tue; mLa Latina)
This little gem is reason enough to detour from the more popular Calle de la Cava Baja next door. The seasonal menu encompasses terrific tapas, salads and generally creative cooking – try the Catalan sausage and prawn pie or the winter calçots (large spring onions), also from Catalonia. The wine list runs into the hundreds and it’s sophisticated without being pretentious.
La Musa Latina MODERN SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 354 02 55; www.grupolamusa.com/restaurante-lamusalatina; Costanilla de San Andrés 1; tapas €3-7, mains €11-17; h10am-1am Mon-Wed, to 1.30am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 1am Sun; mLa Latina)
Laid-back La Musa Latina has an ever-popular dining area and food that’s designed to bring a smile to your face. The outdoor tables are lovely when the weather is warm, while the downstairs bar in the former wine cellar, complete with table tennis and table football, is also charming. Like its sister restaurant in Malasaña, it serves creative tapas, including international adaptations.
Almacén de Vinos TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Casa Gerardo; %91 221 96 60; Calle de la Calatrava 21; tapas/raciones from €3/8.50; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 1-5pm & 8.30pm-12.30am Fri & Sat; mLa Latina)
It doesn’t come much more traditional in La Latina than this tiled space with a marble bar and tostas (toasts; with bacalao, for example), raciones (such as jamón ibérico with wild mushrooms) and vermouth on tap. When busy, it has that unmistakeable buzz of a place beloved by locals whose attitude seems to be, ‘Why change something this good?’.
Enotaberna del León de Oro SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 119 14 94; www.posadadelleondeoro.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 12; tapas from €6, mains €13-23; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight; mLa Latina)
The stunning restoration work that brought to life the Posada del León de Oro also bequeathed to La Latina a fine bar-restaurant. The emphasis is on matching carefully chosen wines with creative dishes (such as baby squid with potato emulsion and rocket pesto) in a casual atmosphere. There are also plenty of gins to choose from. It’s a winning combination.
Malacatín SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 52 41; www.malacatin.com; Calle de Ruda 5; mains €11-15; h11am-5.30pm Mon-Wed & Sat, 11am-5.30pm & 8.15-11pm Thu & Fri, closed Aug; mLa Latina)
If you want to see madrileños (residents of Madrid) enjoying their favourite local food, this is one of the best places to do so. The clamour of conversation bounces off the tiled walls of the cramped dining area adorned with bullfighting memorabilia. The speciality is as much cocido (meat-and-chickpea stew) as you can eat (€21).
oCasa Lucio SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 32 52, 91 365 82 17; www.casalucio.es; Calle de la Cava Baja 35; mains €18-29; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight, closed Aug; mLa Latina)
Casa Lucio is a Madrid classic and has been wowing madrileños with his light touch, quality ingredients and home-style local cooking since 1974, such as eggs (a Lucio speciality) and roasted meats in abundance. There’s also rabo de toro (bull’s tail) during the Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador and plenty of rioja (red wine) to wash away the mere thought of it.
Posada de la Villa SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 18 80; www.posadadelavilla.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 9; mains €21-32.50; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun, closed Aug; mLa Latina)
This wonderfully restored 17th-century posada (inn) is something of a local landmark. The atmosphere is formal, the decoration sombre and traditional (heavy timber and brickwork), and the cuisine decidedly local – roast meats, cocido (which usually needs to be pre-ordered), callos (tripe) and sopa de ajo (garlic soup).
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BOCADILLO DE CALAMARES
One of the lesser-known culinary specialities of Madrid is a bocadillo de calamares (a small baguette-style roll filled to bursting with deep-fried calamari). You’ll find them in many bars in the streets surrounding Plaza Mayor and neighbouring bars along Calle de los Botaderos off Plaza Mayor’s southeastern corner. At around €2.90, they’re the perfect street snack. La Ideal (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 72 78; Calle de Botoneras 4; bocadillos from €2.90; h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mSol) and La Campana (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 364 29 84; Calle de Botoneras 6; bocadillos from €2.90; h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mSol) are two spots to try them.
5Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
Casa Toni SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 25 80; casatoni2@hotmail.com; Calle de la Cruz 14; mains €6-13; hnoon-4.30pm & 7pm-midnight; mSol)
Locals flock to Casa Toni, one of Madrid’s best old-school Spanish bars, for simple, honest cuisine fresh off the griddle. Specialities include cuttlefish, gazpacho and offal – the crispy pork ear is out of this world. While you’re there, you can try one of the local Madrid wines. The prices are great and the old Madrid charm can’t be beat.
Vinos González TAPAS, DELI€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 56 18; www.casagonzalez.es; Calle de León 12; tapas from €3.50, raciones €9-15; h9.30am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; mAntón Martín)
Ever dreamed of a deli where you could choose a tasty morsel and sit down and eat it right there? Well, the two are usually kept separate in Spain but here you can. On offer is a tempting array of local and international cheeses, cured meats and other typically Spanish delicacies. The tables are informal, cafe style and we recommend lingering.
La Finca de Susana SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 76 78; www.grupandilana.com; Calle del Príncipe 10; mains €8-14; h1-3.45pm & 8.30-11.30pm Sun-Wed, 1-3.45pm & 8.15pm-midnight Thu-Sat; W; mSevilla)
It’s difficult to find a better combination of price, quality cooking and classy atmosphere anywhere in Huertas. The softly lit dining area has a sophisticated vibe and the sometimes-innovative, sometimes-traditional food draws a hip young crowd. The duck confit with plums, turnips and couscous is a fine choice. No reservations.
oCasa Alberto TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 93 56; www.casaalberto.es; Calle de las Huertas 18; tapas €3.25-10, raciones €7-16.50, mains €16-19; hrestaurant 1.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun, bar noon-1.30am Tue-Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun, closed Sun Jul & Aug; mAntón Martín)
One of the most atmospheric old tabernas (taverns) of Madrid, Casa Alberto has been around since 1827 and occupies a building where Cervantes is said to have written one of his books. The secret to its staying power is vermouth on tap, excellent tapas at the bar and fine sit-down meals.
La Mucca de Prado SPANISH, INTERNATIONAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 00 00; www.lamuccacompany.com/lamucca-de-prado; Calle del Prado 16; mains €9-16; h1pm-1.30am Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mAntón Martín)
This wildly popular outpost of the similarly cool Malasaña La Mucca serves up terrific local dishes such as jamón (ham) platters, but the menu is mostly international with pizzas, steaks, burgers and salads, usually with a Spanish twist. The food is great, but there’s also an irresistible buzz about this place that makes everything taste better and the night last longer.
Maceiras GALICIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 58 18; www.tabernamaceira.com; Calle de las Huertas 66; mains €6-14; h1.15-4.15pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 1.30-4.45pm & 8.30pm-1am Fri & Sat, 1.30-4.45pm & 8pm-midnight Sun; mAntón Martín)
Galician tapas (octopus, green peppers etc) never tasted so good as in this agreeably rustic bar down the bottom of the Huertas hill, especially when washed down with a crisp white Ribeiro. The simple wooden tables, loyal customers, Galician music playing in the background and handy location make it a fine place for before or after visiting the museums along the Paseo del Prado.
There’s another branch (MAP; www.tabernamaceira.com; Calle de Jesús 7; mains €6-14; h1.15-4.15pm & 8.30pm-12.15am Mon-Fri, 1.30- 4.30pm & 8.30pm-1am Sat, 1.30-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Sun; mAntón Martín) around the corner.
oLa Terraza del Casino MODERN SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 12 75; www.casinodemadrid.es; Calle de Alcalá 15; mains €44-56, set menus €79-185; h1-4pm & 9pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mSevilla)
Perched atop the lavish Casino de Madrid building, this temple of haute cuisine is the proud bearer of two Michelin stars and presided over by celebrity chef Paco Roncero. It’s all about culinary experimentation, with a menu that changes as each new idea emerges from the laboratory and moves into the kitchen. The menú de degustación (€148) is a fabulous avalanche of tastes.
oLhardy SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 33 85; www.lhardy.com; Carrera de San Jerónimo 8; mains €24-36; h1-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun, closed Aug; mSol, Sevilla)
This Madrid landmark (since 1839) is an elegant treasure trove of takeaway gourmet tapas downstairs and six dining areas upstairs that are the upmarket preserve of traditional Madrid dishes with an occasional hint of French influence. House specialities include cocido a la madrileña (meat-and-chickpea stew), pheasant and wild duck in an orange perfume. The quality and service are unimpeachable.
TAPAS TOUR OF MADRID
La Latina & Lavapiés
Madrid’s home of tapas is La Latina, especially along Calle de la Cava Baja and the surrounding streets. Almendro 13 (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 42 52; www.almendro13.com; Calle del Almendro 13; mains €7-15; h1-4pm & 7.30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 1-5pm & 8pm-1am Fri & Sat; mLa Latina) is famous for quality rather than frilly elaborations, with cured meats, cheeses, tortillas and huevos rotos (literally ‘broken eggs’) the house specialities. Down on Calle de la Cava Baja, Taberna Txakolina (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 48 77; www.tabernatxacoli.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 26; tapas from €4; h8pm-midnight Tue, 1-4pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; mLa Latina) does Basque ‘high cuisine in miniature’; wash it all down with a txacoli, a sharp Basque white. Casa Lucas (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 365 08 04; www.casalucas.es; Calle de la Cava Baja 30; tapas/raciones from €5/12; h1-3.30pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Tue, 1-3.30pm Wed; mLa Latina) and La Chata (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 14 58; www.lachatacavabaja.com; Calle de la Cava Baja 24; mains €9-23, tapas from €3.70, set menu €18; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Thu-Mon, 8.30pm-midnight Tue & Wed; mLa Latina) are also hugely popular. Not far away, Juana La Loca (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 55 00; www.juanalalocamadrid.com; Plaza de la Puerta de Moros 4; tapas from €4, mains €10-24; h1.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun, 7pm-midnight Sat-Wed, to 1am Thu-Fri; mLa Latina) does a magnificent tortilla de patatas (potato and onion omelette), as does Txirimiri (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 364 11 96; www.txirimiri.es; Calle del Humilladero 6; tapas from €3; hnoon-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight; mLa Latina).
Plaza Mayor, Sol & Huertas
For bacalao (cod), Casa Labra (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 14 05; www.casalabra.es; Calle de Tetuán 11; tapas from €1; h11.30am-3.30pm & 6-11pm; mSol) has been around since 1860 and was a favourite of the poet Federico García Lorca. However, many madrileños wouldn’t eat bacalao anywhere except Casa Revuelta (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 366 33 32; Calle de Latoneros 3; tapas from €3; h10.30am-4pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun, closed Aug; mSol, La Latina), clinched by the fact that the owner painstakingly extracts every fish bone in the morning.
In Huertas, La Casa del Abuelo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 027334; www.lacasadelabuelo.es; Calle de la Victoria 12; raciones from €9; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; mSol) is famous for gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns) or gambas al ajillo (prawns sizzling in garlic on little ceramic plates) and a chato (small glass) of heavy, sweet El Abuelo red wine. For patatas bravas (fried potatoes lathered in a spicy tomato sauce), Las Bravas (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 85 81; www.lasbravas.com; Callejón de Álvarez Gato 3; raciones €4-13; h12.30-4.30pm & 7.30pm-12.30am; mSol, Sevilla) is the place. Another good choice down the bottom of the Huertas hill is Los Gatos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 429 30 67; Calle de Jesús 2; tapas from €3.75; h11am-2am; mAntón Martín) with eclectic decor and terrific canapés.
El Retiro, the Art Museums & Salamanca
Along the Paseo del Prado, there’s only one choice for tapas and it’s one of Madrid’s best: Estado Puro. In Salamanca, Biotza (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 781 03 13; Calle de Claudio Coello 27; pintxos €2.80-3.40, raciones from €6, set menus from €18; h1-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mSerrano) offers creative Basque pintxos (tapas) in stylish surrounds.
Chueca
Chueca is another stellar tapas barrio. Don’t miss Bocaito, a purveyor of Andalucian jamón (ham) and seafood. Bodega de La Ardosa is extremely popular for its salmorejo (cold, tomato-based soup), croquetas, patatas bravas and tortilla de patatas, while Casa Julio is widely touted as the home of Madrid’s best croquetas. Another brilliant choice is Baco y Beto.
5El Retiro & the Art Museums
oEstado Puro TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 330 24 00; www.tapasenestadopuro.com; Plaza de Neptuno/Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo 4; tapas €4.50-12.50, mains €14-20; hnoon-midnight; mBanco de España, Atocha)
A slick but casual tapas bar, Estado Puro serves up fantastic tapas, such as the tortilla española siglo XXI (21st-century Spanish omelette, served in a glass…), quail eggs in soy sauce or pig’s trotters with cuttlefish noodles. The kitchen is overseen by Paco Roncero, head chef at La Terraza del Casino, who learned his trade with master chef Ferran Adrià.
Palacio de Cibeles SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 14 54; www.palaciodecibeles.com; 6th fl, Plaza de la Cibeles 1; mains €16-39, set menus €38.50-55; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight; mBanco de España)
High in the iconic Palacio de Comunicaciones on Plaza de la Cibeles, this much-loved restaurant by Adolfo Muñoz takes Spanish staples, gives them a twist from the Castilla-La Mancha region, and then riffs a little wherever the urge takes him. Dishes might include rice infused with saffron, vegetables and manchego cheese, or pig’s trotters stuffed with onion and wild mushrooms.
5Salamanca
oAstrolabius FUSION€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 562 06 11; www.astrolabiusmadrid.com; Calle de Serrano 118; mains €10-25; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mNúñez de Balboa)
This terrific family-run place in Salamanca’s north has a simple philosophy – take grandmother’s recipes and filter them through the imagination of the grandchildren. The result is a beguiling mix of flavours, such as scallops of the world in garlic, or the prawn croquettes. The atmosphere is edgy and modern, but casual in the best Madrid sense.
oPlatea SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 577 00 25; www.plateamadrid.com; Calle de Goya 5-7; h12.30pm-12.30am Sun-Wed, to 2.30am Thu-Sat; mSerrano, Colón)
The ornate Carlos III cinema opposite the Plaza de Colón has been artfully transformed into a dynamic culinary scene with more than a hint of burlesque. There are 12 restaurants, three gourmet food stores and cocktail bars.
Working with the original theatre-style layout, the multilevel seating has been used to array a series of restaurants that seem at once self-contained yet connected to the whole through the soaring open central space, with all of them in some way facing the stage area where cabaret-style or 1930s-era performances or live cooking shows provide a rather glamorous backdrop. It’s where food court meets haute cuisine, a daring combination of lunch or dinner with the occasional floor show without the formality that usually infuses such places.
José Luis SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 563 09 58; www.joseluis.es; Calle de Serrano 89; tapas from €5; h8.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am Sat, 12.30pm-1am Sun; mGregorio Marañón)
With numerous branches around Madrid, José Luis is famous for its fidelity to traditional Spanish recipes. It wins many people’s vote for Madrid’s best tortilla de patatas (Spanish potato omelette), but it’s also good for croquetas and ensaladilla rusa (Russian salad). This outpost has a slightly stuffy, young-men-in-suits feel to it, which is, after all, very Salamanca.
5Malasaña & Chueca
oPez Tortilla TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %653 919984; www.peztortilla.com; Calle del Pez 36; tapas from €4; hnoon-midnight Sun, 6.30pm-2am Mon-Wed, noon-2am Thu, noon-2.30am Fri & Sat; mNoviciado)
Every time we come here, this place is full to bursting, which is not surprising given its philosophy of great tortilla (15 kinds!), splendid croquetas (croquettes) and craft beers (more than 70 varieties, with nine on tap). The croquetas with black squid ink or the tortilla with truffle brie and jamón (ham) are two stars among many.
oCasa Julio SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 72 74; Calle de la Madera 37; 6/12 croquetas €6/12; h1-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jul; mTribunal)
A citywide poll for the best croquetas in Madrid would see half of those polled voting for Casa Julio and the remainder not doing so only because they haven’t been yet. They’re that good that celebrities and mere mortals from all over Madrid come here to sample the traditional jamón (ham) variety or more creative versions such as spinach with gorgonzola.
Strangely, the place acquired a certain celebrity when U2 chose the bar for a photo shoot some years back.
oBazaar MODERN SPANISH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 523 39 05; www.restaurantbazaar.com; Calle de la Libertad 21; mains €7.50-13; h1.15-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Sun-Wed, 1.15-4pm & 8.15pm-midnight Thu-Sat; W; mChueca)
Bazaar’s popularity among the well-heeled Chueca set shows no sign of abating. Its pristine white interior design, with theatre-style lighting and wall-length windows, may draw a crowd that looks like it’s stepped out of the pages of ¡Hola! magazine, but the food is extremely well priced and innovative, and the atmosphere is casual.
Reservations are available only for dinner Sunday to Thursday. At all other times, get there early or be prepared to wait, regardless of whether you’re famous or not. The cocktail list is long and prices start at just €5!
Bar Palentino TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 30 58; Calle del Pez 8; bocadillos €2.50; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat; mNoviciado)
Formica tables, not a single attention to decor detail, and yet… This ageless Malasaña bar is a reminder of an important lesson in eating Spanish style: don’t be fooled by appearances. Wildly popular with young and old alike, Bar Palentino has an irresistible charm, thanks in large part to its owners María Dolores (who claims to be ‘the house speciality’) and Casto.
And the food? Simple traditional tapas and bocadillos (filled rolls) that have acquired city-wide fame, not least for their price.
Baco y Beto TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 522 84 41; Calle de Pelayo 24; tapas from €4; h8pm-1am Mon-Fri, 2-4.30pm & 8.30pm-1am Sat; mChueca)
Some of the tastiest tapas in Madrid are what you’ll find here. Tapas might include quail’s eggs with salmorejo cordobés (cold, tomato-based soup from Córdoba), or raciones (larger tapas servings), such as aubergine with parmesan. The clientele is predominantly gay.
Bodega de la Ardosa TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 49 79; www.laardosa.es; Calle de Colón 13; tapas & raciones €4-12; h8.30am-2am Mon-Fri, 12.45pm-2.30am Sat & Sun; mTribunal)
Going strong since 1892, the charming, wood-panelled bar of Bodega de la Ardosa is brimful with charm. To come here and not try the salmorejo (cold tomato soup made with bread, oil, garlic and vinegar), croquetas or tortilla de patatas (potato and onion omelette) would be a crime. On weekend nights there’s scarcely room to move.
oYakitoro by Chicote JAPANESE, SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 737 14 41; www.yakitoro.com; Calle de la Reina 41; tapas €3-8; h1pm-midnight; mBanco de España)
Based around the idea of a Japanese tavern, driven by a spirit of innovation and a desire to combine the best in Spanish and Japanese flavours, Yakitoro is a hit. Apart from salads, it’s all built around brochettes cooked over a wood fire, with wonderful combinations of vegetable, seafood and meat.
oLa Carmencita SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 09 11; www.tabernalacarmencita.es; Calle de la Libertad 16; mains €13-27; h9am-2am; mChueca)
Around since 1854, La Carmencita is the bar where legendary poet Pablo Neruda was once a regular. The folk of La Carmencita have taken 75 of their favourite traditional Spanish recipes and brought them to the table, sometimes with a little updating but more often safe in the knowledge that nothing needs changing.
oAlbur TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 594 27 33; www.restaurantealbur.com; Calle de Manuela Malasaña 15; mains €13-18; h12.30-5pm & 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 12.30-5pm & 7.30pm-1.30am Fri, 1pm-1.30am Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun; W; mBilbao)
One of Malasaña’s best deals, this place has a wildly popular tapas bar and a classy but casual restaurant out the back. The restaurant waiters never seem to lose their cool, and their extremely well-priced rice dishes are the stars of the show, although in truth you could order anything here and leave well satisfied.
Celso y Manolo TAPAS, SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 80 79; www.celsoymanolo.es; Calle de la Libertad 1; raciones €7.50-12; h1-4.30pm & 8pm-2am; mBanco de España)
One of Chueca’s best bars, Celso y Manolo serves up tostadas for those looking to snack, oxtail for those looking for a touch of the traditional, and a host of dishes from Spain’s north and northwest. There are also good wines, good coffee, even better cocktails and an artfully restored interior.
Bocaito TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 12 19; www.bocaito.com; Calle de la Libertad 4-6; tapas €2.50-8, mains €11-28; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mChueca, Sevilla)
Film-maker Pedro Almodóvar once described this traditional bar and restaurant as ‘the best antidepressant’. Forget about the sit-down restaurant (though well regarded) and jam into the bar, shoulder-to-shoulder with the casual crowd, order a few Andalucian raciones off the menu and slosh them down with some gritty red or a caña (small glass of beer).
La Mucca de Pez TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 521 00 00; www.lamucca.es; Plaza Carlos Cambronero 4; mains €9-16; hnoon-1.30am Sun-Wed, 1pm-2am Thu, 1pm-2.30am Fri & Sat; mCallao)
The only problem with this place is that it’s such an agreeable spot to spend an afternoon it can be impossible to snaffle a table. An ample wine list complements the great salads, creative pizzas and a good mix of meat and seafood mains, and the atmosphere simply adds to the overall appeal.
Mercado de San Antón TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 330 07 30; www.mercadosananton.com; Calle de Augo Figueroa 24; tapas from €1.50, mains €5-20; h10am-midnight; mChueca)
Spain’s fresh food markets make for an interesting alternative to bars and restaurants. Many have been transformed to meet all of your food needs at once. Downstairs is all about fresh produce, but upstairs there’s all manner of appealing tapas varieties from Japan, the Canary Islands and other corners of the country/globe.
La Musa SPANISH, FUSION€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 448 75 58; www.grupolamusa.com; Calle de Manuela Malasaña 18; tapas €3-7, mains €11-17; h9am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 1pm-2am Sat, 1pm-1am Sun; mSan Bernardo)
Snug, loud and unpretentious, La Musa is all about designer decor, lounge music and memorably fun food. The menu is divided into three types of tapas – Spanish, international and those from a wood-fired oven. Try the degustación de tapas (€30) for two.
oLa Buena Vida SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 531 31 49; www.restaurantelabuenavida.com; Calle del Conde de Xiquena 8; mains €25-28; h1-4pm & 9-11.30pm Tue-Thu, 1.30-4pm & 9pm-12.30am Fri & Sat; mChueca, Colón)
A cross between a Parisian bistro and an old-school upmarket Madrid restaurant, this prestigious Chueca place is popular with a well-heeled, knowledgable crowd. The menu is seasonal and leans towards classic Spanish tastes, although dishes like the red tuna sirloin with guacamole and sesame seeds suggest that the chefs are not averse to the odd playful interpretation. It’s consistently one of Madrid’s best.
oLa Tasquita de Enfrente MODERN SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 532 54 49; Calle de la Ballesta 6; mains €16-32, set menus €45-70; h1.30-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mGran Vía)
It’s difficult to overstate how popular this place is among people in the know in Madrid’s food scene. The seasonal menu prepared by chef Juanjo López never ceases to surprise while also combining simple Spanish staples to stunning effect. The menú de degustación (tasting menu; €50) or menú de Juanjo (€65) would be our choice for first-timers. Reservations are essential.
WORTH A TRIP
CASA JORGE
Arguably Madrid’s best Catalan restaurant, classy Casa Jorge (%914 16 92 44; www.casajorge.com; Calle de Cartagena 104; mains €16-22; h1.30-4pm & 9pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun; mCartagena) serves up exquisite specialties from Spain’s northwest, including caracoles (snails), perfectly executed rice dishes and, in season (roughly December to March or April), calçots con salsa romescu (big spring onions served with a tomato and red-pepper sauce); you eat the last of these with a bib, and they’re extraordinarily delicious.
5Parque del Oeste & Northern Madrid
Bodega de la Ardosa TAPAS€
(%91 446 58 94; Calle de Santa Engracia 70; raciones from €7.50; h9am-3pm & 6-11.30pm Thu-Tue; mIglesia)
Tucked away in a fairly modern corner of Chamberí, this fine relic has an extravagantly tiled facade complete with shrapnel holes dating back to the Spanish Civil War. For decades locals have been coming here for their morning tipple and some of the best traditional Spanish patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce) in town. It also has vermouth on tap.
Casa Mingo ASTURIAN€
(%91 547 79 18; www.casamingo.es; Paseo de la Florida 34; raciones €2.70-11, pollo asado €11; h11am-midnight; mPríncipe Pío)
Opened in 1888, Casa Mingo is a well known and vaguely cavernous Asturian cider house. Things are kept simple, focusing primarily on the signature dish of pollo asado (roast chicken, cut in quarters) accompanied by a bottle of cider. Chorizo a la sidra (chorizo cooked with cider), queso cabrales (blue cheese from Asturias) and a weekday lunch cocido a la madrileña (meat-and-chickpea stew) in winter are other favourites.
Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida is more or less next door.
oMama Campo SPANISH€€
(%91 447 41 38; www.mamacampo.es; Plaza de Olavide; mains €7-15; h1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun; mBilbao, Iglesia, Quevedo)
Mama Campo breaks the mould of sameness that unites the bars surrounding Plaza de Olavide. Positioning itself as an ecofriendly take on the Spanish taberna (tavern), it’s gone for a winning white decor within and a fresh approach to Spanish staples, always with an emphasis on fresh, organic ingredients. It also has tables on one of our favourite squares.
oLa Favorita SPANISH€€
(%91 448 38 10; www.restaurantelafavorita.com; Calle de Covarrubias 25; mains €12-26, set menus €50-70; h1.30-4pm & 9pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 9pm-midnight Sat; mAlonso Martínez)
Set in a delightful old mansion, La Favorita is famous for its opera arias throughout the night, sung by professional opera singers masquerading as waiters. The outdoor garden courtyard is delightful on a summer’s evening, while the music and food (which leans towards the cuisine of the northeastern Spanish region of Navarra) are top drawer.
Costa Blanca Arrocería SPANISH€€
(%91 448 58 32; Calle de Bravo Murillo 3; mains €11-23; h1.30-4pm Mon, 1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Fri, 2-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Sat & Sun; mQuevedo)
Even if you don’t have plans to be in Chamberí, it’s worth a trip across town to this bar-restaurant that offers outstanding rice dishes, including paella. The quality is high and prices are among the cheapest in town. Start with almejas a la marinera (baby clams) and follow it up with paella de marisco (seafood paella) for the full experience.
Sagaretxe TAPAS€€
(%91 446 25 88; www.sagaretxe.com; Calle de Eloy Gonzalo 26; tapas €2.20, set menus €15.50-31; hnoon-5pm & 7pm-midnight; mIglesia)
One of the best pintxos (Basque tapas) bars in Madrid, Sagaretxe takes the stress out of eating tapas, with around 20 varieties lined up along the bar (and more than 100 that can be prepared in the kitchen upon request). Simply point and any of the wonderful selection will be plated up for you.
Las Tortillas de Gabino SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 319 75 05; www.lastortillasdegabino.com; Calle de Rafael Calvo 20; tortillas €10.50-15.50, mains €14-22; h1.30-4pm & 9-11.30pm Mon-Sat; mIglesia)
It’s a brave Spanish chef that fiddles with the iconic tortilla de patatas (potato omelette), but the results here are delicious. All manner of surprising combinations are available including tortilla with octopus. This place also gets rave reviews for its croquetas. The service is excellent and the bright yet classy dining area adds to the sense of a most agreeable eating experience.
oDiverXo MODERN SPANISH€€€
(%91 570 07 66; www.diverxo.com; Calle de Padre Damián 23; set menus €195-250; h2-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Tue-Sat, closed three weeks in Aug; mCuzco)
Madrid’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant, DiverXo in northern Madrid is one of Spain’s most unusual culinary experiences. Chef David Muñoz is something of the enfant terrible of Spain’s cooking scene. Still in his 30s, he favours what he has described as a ‘brutal’ approach to cooking – his team of chefs appear as you’re mid bite to add surprising new ingredients.
The carefully choreographed experience centres on the short (2½-hour, seven-course) or long (four-hour, 11-course) menus, or the ‘Wow’ and ‘Glutton Wow’ menus, and is utterly unlike the more formal upmarket dining options elsewhere. The nondescript suburban setting and small premises (chefs sometimes end up putting the finishing touches to dishes in the hallway) only add to the whole street-smart atmosphere. Bookings up to six months in advance are required.