5Eating
Segovianos (residents of Segovia) love their pigs to the point of obsession. Just about every restaurant boasts its horno de asar (roast ovens). The main speciality is cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig), but judiones de la granja (butter beans with pork chunks) also loom large.
Limón y Menta BAKERY€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%921 46 22 57; Calle de Isabel la Católica 2; cakes from €2.50; 
h9am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 8.30pm Sat & Sun)
This patisserie just off Plaza Mayor is a good place to indulge in your passion for ponche segoviano, a rich, lemon-infused sponge cake coated with marzipan and topped in icing sugar with a distinctive criss-cross pattern.
oRestaurante El Fogón Sefardí JEWISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 62 50; www.lacasamudejar.com; Calle de Isabel la Católica 8; tapas from €2.50, mains €12-26, set menus €19-25; h1.30-4.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm)
Located within the Hospedería La Gran Casa Mudéjar, this is one of the most original places in town. Sephardic Jewish cuisine is served either on the intimate patio or in the splendid dining hall with original 15th-century Mudéjar flourishes. The theme in the bar is equally diverse. Stop here for a taste of the award-winning tapas. Reservations recommended.
oMesón José María CASTILIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 11 11; www.restaurantejosemaria.com; Calle del Cronista Lecea 11; mains €14-26; hrestaurant 1-4pm & 8-11.30pm, bar 9am-1am Sun-Thu, 10am-2am Fri & Sat; 
c)
Offers fine bar tapas and five dining rooms serving exquisite cochinillo asado and other local specialities – most of which, including the suckling pig, are displayed in the window. The bar is standing-room only at lunchtime.
La Almuzara ITALIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 06 22; Calle Marqués del Arco 3; mains €7-16; h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Sun, 8.30pm-midnight Tue; 
vc)
If you’re a vegetarian, you don’t need to feel like an outcast in this resolutely carnivorous city. La Almuzara offers a dedicated vegetarian menu, as well as pizzas, pastas and 17 innovative salads. They’re not too pious to scrimp on desserts either, with some decadent choices changing daily. The ambience is warm and artsy.
Mesón de Cándido GRILL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 42 81 03; www.mesondecandido.es; Plaza del Azoguejo 5; mains €12-26)
Set in a delightful 18th-century building in the shadow of the aqueduct, Mesón de Cándido is famous for its cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and dishes such as pheasant. Reservations recommended.
oCasa Duque SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 24 87; www.restauranteduque.es; Calle de Cervantes 12; mains €19.50-24, set menus €35-40; h12.30-4.30pm & 8.30-11.30pm)
Cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) has been served at this atmospheric mesón (tavern) since the 1890s. For the uninitiated, try the menú de degustación (€40), which includes cochinillo. Downstairs is the informal cueva (cave), where you can get tapas (snacks) and full-bodied cazuelas (stews). Reservations recommended.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Canavan’s Theatre CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 02 52; www.facebook.com/canavanstheatre/; Plaza de la Rubia; hmidnight-6.30am Thu-Sat)
This is no cheesy disco – the decor is sumptuous with exquisite friezes, flocked wallpaper, chandeliers and an overall extravagant theatrical feel. It’s over the top, just like a big night out should be.
La Tasquina WINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %921 46 39 14; Calle de Valdeláguila 3; h9pm-late)
This wine bar draws crowds large enough to spill out onto the pavement, nursing their good wines, cavas (sparkling wines) and cheeses.
8Information
Centro de Recepción de Visitantes (%921 46 67 21; www.turismodesegovia.com; Plaza del Azoguejo 1; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun Oct-Mar) Segovia’s main tourist office runs at least two guided tours of the city’s monumental core daily (€10 to €17 per person), usually departing at 11am and 4pm (although check as this schedule can change). Reserve ahead.
Oficina de Turismo (%921 46 60 70; www.segoviaturismo.es; Plaza Mayor 10; h9.30am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun Jul–mid-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun mid-Sep–Jun) Information on the wider region.
8Getting There & Away
Bus The bus station is just off Paseo de Ezequiel González. La Sepulvedana (%902 119699; www.lasepulvedana.es) buses run half-hourly to Segovia from Madrid’s Paseo de la Florida bus stop (€7.89, 1½ hours). Buses also depart to Ávila (€6.80, one hour, eight daily) and Salamanca (€16, 2½ hours, four daily), among other destinations.
Car & Motorcycle Of the two main roads down to the AP6, which links Madrid and Galicia, the N603 is the prettier.
Train There are a couple of services by train operated by Renfe (%902 240202; www.renfe.es): just three normal trains run daily from Madrid to Segovia (€8.25, two hours), leaving you at the main train station 2.5km from the aqueduct. The faster option is the high-speed Avant (€12.90, 28 minutes), which deposits you at the newer Segovia-Guiomar station, 5km from the aqueduct.
8Getting Around
Bus 9 does a circuit through the historic centre, bus 8 goes to Segovia train station and bus 11 goes to Segovia-Guiomar station. All services cost €1.30 and leave from just outside the aqueduct.
DON’T MISS
A SPANISH VERSAILLES
The magnificent, elaborate baroque gardens of La Granja de San Ildefonso (www.patrimonionacional.es; Sierra de Guadarrama; gardens free, Palacio Real adult/child €9/4, fountains €4, free for EU citizens 3-6pm Oct-Mar & 5-8pm Apr-Sep; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar; 
pc), famous for their 28 extravagant fountains depicting ancient myths, date from 1720, when French architects and gardeners, together with some Italian help, began laying them out. There’s also a maze. The 300-room Palacio Real, once a favoured summer residence for Spanish royalty and restored after a fire in 1918, is similarly impressive; it includes the colourful Museo de Tapices (Tapestry Museum).
The palace was built for the Bourbon King Felipe V, who chose this site in the western foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama to recreate in miniature his version of Versailles, the palace of his French grandfather, Louis XIV. If you time your visit for Wednesday, Saturday or Sunday at 5.30pm you can see the fountains in action.
Up to a dozen daily buses to La Granja depart regularly from Segovia’s bus station (€2.20, 20 minutes).
Valladolid
POP 301,876
Valladolid is a lively provincial Spanish city and a convenient gateway to northern Spain. An attractive place with a very Spanish character, the city’s appeal is in its striking monuments, the fine Plaza Mayor and some excellent museums. By night, Valladolid comes alive as its large student population overflows from the city’s boisterous bars.
Valladolid
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
oMuseo Nacional de Escultura MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 25 03 75; www.mecd.gob.es/mnescultura/inicio.html; Calle de San Gregorio 2; adult/concession €3/1.50, Sun & 4-7.30pm Sat free; h10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Spain’s premier showcase of polychrome wood sculpture is housed in the former Colegio de San Gregorio (1496), a flamboyant Isabelline Gothic–style building where exhibition rooms line an exquisite, two-storey galleried courtyard. Works by Alonso de Berruguete, Juan de Juní and Gregorio Fernández are the star attractions. Don’t miss Fernández’ painfully realistic sculpture of the dead Christ in Room 15 or the choir stalls in Room 8. And don’t forget to look up – some of the ceilings are extraordinary.
oCasa-Museo de Colón MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 29 13 53; Calle de Colón; adult/child €2/free, Wed adult €1; h10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Tue-Sun; c)
The Casa-Museo de Colón is a superb museum spread over four floors. It has interactive exhibits, as well as wonderful old maps that take you on a journey through Christopher Columbus’ (Cristóbal Colón in Spanish) trips to the Americas. The top floor describes Valladolid in the days of the great explorer (who died here in 1506).
Catedral CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 30 43 62; Calle Arribas 1; adult/concession €3/1.50; h10am-1.30pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 11.45am-1.30pm Sun, tours every 45min)
Valladolid’s 16th-century cathedral is not Castilla’s finest, but it does have an extravagant altarpiece by Juan de Juní and a processional monstrance by Juan de Arfe in the attached Museo Diocesano y Catedralicio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Arribas 1; adult/concession €3/1.50; h10am-1.30pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 11.45am-1.30pm Sun). Guided tours (adult/concession €5/4) of the cathedral and bell tower last 45 minutes and the views are fabulous; combined with a guided visit to the museum (adult/concession €8/6) it takes two hours. (You can visit the cathedral and museum on your own, but not the tower.)
The 13th-century ruins of the Collegiate Church (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle del Arzobispo Gandásegui), atop which the cathedral was built, can be seen along the cathedral’s northeastern perimeter.
Casa de Cervantes MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 30 88 10; www.mecd.gob.es/museocasacervantes; Calle del Rastro; adult/child under 12yr €3/free, Sun free; h9.30am-3pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)
Cervantes was briefly imprisoned in Valladolid; his house is happily preserved behind a quiet little garden. You can purchase a combined adult ticket that also admits you to the Museo Nacional de Escultura for €5.
Museo Patio Herreriano GALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 36 29 08; www.museopatioherreriano.org; Calle de Jorge Guillén 6; adult/child €3/2, Wed €1; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) 
F
Dedicated to post-WWI Spanish art, this surprising museum contains works by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida, Jorge Oteiza, Antoni Tápies and Esteban Vicente, all arrayed around the cloisters of a former monastery.
4Sleeping
oHotel Mozart HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 29 77 77; www.hotelmozart.net; Calle Menéndez Pelayo 7; s/d €58/69; 
a
W)
This is an extremely well-priced hotel, given the quality of its refurbished rooms and the location. Here you’ll find king-size beds, plush, earth-colour furnishings and fabrics, polished parquet floors, dazzling marble bathrooms and space enough for a comfortable armchair. The entrance has a whiff of grandeur about it as well – which contributes to the surprise of the budget-bracket price.
Hostal París HOSTAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 37 06 25; www.hostalparis.com; Calle de la Especería 2; s/d from €50/55; aW)
One of the closest places to Plaza Mayor, Hostal París has clearly had the interior designers in. Washed in pale pastel colours with striking abstract art panels, good-size desks and flat-screen TVs, the rooms successfully combine comfort with a classy feel and budget prices.
oHotel Gareus BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%983 21 43 33; www.hotelgareus.com; Calle de Colmenares 2; r from €75; aW)
Polished floorboards, warm colours and creative lighting make these rooms some of the best in Valladolid. The service is similarly warm and welcoming and the place has a quiet sophistication. The location, just a 10-minute walk from the Plaza Mayor, is also excellent.
VALLADOLID CARD
A terrific way to save your euros, the Valladolid Card (www.valladolid.com/valladolid-card; adult/child €7/5) allows free access to a number of museums – including the Museo Nacional de Escultura, Casa-Museo de Colón, Museo Patio Herreriano and the Catedral and its museum – plus free travel on the Bus Turístico de Valladolid (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 33 03 59; www.auvasa.es/auv_busturistico.asp; Acera de Recoletos; adult/child €7/5; hhourly 5-7pm Fri, noon-1pm & 5-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, hourly 5-6pm Fri, noon-1pm & 5-6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar) over a 24-hour period. The card can be purchased at either of the two tourist offices.
5Eating
El Corcho TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle de Correos 2; tostas from €1.75, set menu €18; h1-4pm & 8-11.30pm)
This spit-and-sawdust place, located on the city’s top street for tapas bars, wins the prize of public opinion for its excellent selection of tostas (toasts) with tasty toppings.
oMartín Quiroga CASTILIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %605 78 71 17; Calle San Ignacio 17; mains €15-21; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
With just four tables and a typical waiting list of a month, you might imagine that this extraordinarily high-quality gastrobar would have prices to match. It doesn’t. There is no menu – dishes depend on what’s seasonally fresh and available from the market that day – but there’s plenty of choice. Special diets are catered to with advance notice. Reservations essential.
Los Zagales de Abadía CASTILIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 38 08 92; www.loszagales.com; Calle de la Pasión 13; mains €9-19, set menus €25-35; h1-4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
The bar here is awash with hanging local produce, all represented in the prize-winning tapas displayed along the bar – this place has done well not just at local competitions but nationwide. To see what all the fuss is about, try the Menú Maridaje: nine of the prize-winning tapas for €34.95. Restaurant servings are generous and the food excellent. Reservations recommended.
El Caballo de Troya SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Restaurante Santi; %983 33 93 55; www.restaurantesanti.es; Calle de Correos 1; restaurant mains €18-25, bar mains €8-22, set menu €25; h1.30-3.30pm & 9-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun)
The ‘Trojan Horse’ is a Valladolid treat. The restaurant, set around a stunning, Renaissance-style courtyard, is as sophisticated in flavours as the dining room is classy in design – try the solomillo con roquefort (sirloin with Roquefort cheese). The taberna (tavern) downstairs also has brilliant raciones. Reservations are recommended for the restaurant, especially at weekends.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Central Valladolid brims with welcoming bars and cafes. The richest pickings are in the blocks west of the Plaza Mayor.
Café de la Comedia COCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %983 34 00 80; Plaza de Martí y Monsó 4; h3.30pm-late)
Decor here is suitably comedic, with Laurel and Hardy on the screen and Chaplin pics (and similar) decorating the walls. It’s a reliable, popular choice that goes beyond fads and serves good cocktails and wines by the glass.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo (%983 21 93 10; www.info.valladolid.es; Acera de Recoletos; h9.30am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-3pm Sun Jul–mid-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-3pm Sun mid-Sep–Jun)
Oficina de Turismo (%983 33 08 93; www.info.valladolid.es; Plaza de Fuente Dorada; h11am-1.30pm & 5-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-1.30pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Air Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and Vueling (www.vueling.com) have flights to Barcelona.
Train More than a dozen daily high-speed AVE train services connect Valladolid with Madrid (from €23.30, one hour); there are also slower services (three hours) for €19.30. Other regular trains run to León (from €16.40, 1¼ to two hours), Burgos (from €6.85, about 1½ hours) and Salamanca (from €8.35, 1½ hours).
8Getting Around
Air Valladolid’s airport (%983 41 55 00; www.aena.es/es/aeropuerto-valladolid/index.html; Carretera Adanero-Gijón) is 10km northwest of the city centre. Linecar (www.linecar.es) has up to five daily bus services from Valladolid to the airport (one-way/return €3.50/5.50). A taxi between the airport and the city centre costs €23/25 by day/night.
Bus Local buses 2 and 10 pass the train and bus stations on their way to Plaza de España.
Around Valladolid
Medina de Rioseco
POP 4803
Medina de Rioseco is something of a faded jewel. This once-wealthy trading centre still has a tangible medieval feel, although, given the number of boarded-up frontages across town, it’s sadly much poorer these days. Head for Calle Mayor, with its colonnaded arcades held up by ancient wooden columns; market stalls set up here on Wednesday mornings.
1Sights
Iglesia de Santa María de Mediavilla CHURCH
(Calle de Santa María; guided tours €2; h11am-noon & 4-7pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Oct, shorter hours rest of year)
This grandiose Isabelline Gothic work has three star-vaulted naves and the rightfully famous Capilla de los Benavente chapel. Anchored by an extravagant altarpiece by Juan de Juní and carved over eight years from 1543, it’s sometimes referred to as the ‘Sistine Chapel of Castilla’ – it’s certainly one of Spain’s finest examples of Renaissance-era religious art. Tours in Spanish.
Museo de San Francisco CHURCH, MUSEUM
(%983 70 00 20; www.museosanfrancisco.es; Paseo de San Francisco 1; adult/child €3/1; hguided tours 11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun May-Aug, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr)
This 16th-century former convent has an extravagant retablo (altarpiece) by Fray Jacinto de Sierra, as well as a wide-ranging collection of sacred art. Tours in Spanish.
Museo de Semana Santa MUSEUM
(Calle de Lázaro Alonso; adult/concession/child €3.50/2.50/1; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)
Medina de Rioseco is famous for its Easter processions, but if you can’t be here during Holy Week, this museum provides an insight into the ceremonial passion of Easter here. Like its sister museum in Zamora, it’s dedicated to pasos (floats carried in Semana Santa processions) and an extensive range of other Easter artefacts.
4Sleeping & Eating
Vittoria Colonna HOTEL€
(%983 72 50 87; www.hotelvittoriacolonna.es; Calle de San Juan 2B; s/d/ste €35/58/79; aW)
This modern three-star hotel, with its raspberry-pink frontage, offers well-sized and well-appointed rooms a short walk from all of Medina de Rioseco’s sights. Some rooms are nicer than others, but all have smart grey-and-white bathrooms.
Casa Manolo CASTILIAN€€
(%676 28 98 45; Calle de Las Armas 4; mains €9-14; h8am-midnight Fri-Wed)
The best of a clutch of restaurants on this side street in the historic centre. The courtyard provides a pleasant setting for enjoying reliably good, hearty Castilian dishes.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo (%983 72 03 19; www.medinaderioseco.com; Paseo de San Francisco 1; h10am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Alongside the Museo de San Francisco.
8Getting There & Away
Up to eight daily buses run to León (€8.25, 1¼ hours); up to 10 go to Valladolid (€4, 30 minutes).
COMBINED TICKETS
If you plan on visiting all four of Medina de Rioseco’s main sights, consider buying the combined ticket for €7/5 for adults/seniors. It can be purchased at any of the four sights and will save you €3.50. Note that between April and September this combined ticket can be purchased only at weekends.
Tordesillas
POP 8905
Commanding a rise on the northern flank of Río Duero, this pretty little town has a historical significance that belies its size. Originally a Roman settlement, it later played a major role in world history in 1494, when Isabel and Fernando sat down here with Portugal to hammer out a treaty determining who got what in Latin America. Portugal got Brazil and much of the rest went to Spain. The museum dedicated to the moment and a stunning convent are the main reasons to come here.
1Sights
Real Convento de Santa Clara CONVENT
(%983 77 00 71; www.patrimonionacional.es; Calle de Alonso Castillo Solorzano 21; adult/child €6/free, EU citizens & residents 4-6.30pm Wed & Thu free; h10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-3pm Sun)
Still home to a few Franciscan nuns living in near-total isolation, this Mudéjar-style convent dates from 1340, when it was begun as a palace for Alfonso XI. In 1494, the Treaty of Tordesillas was signed here. A 50-minute guided tour (in Spanish) takes in a wonderful Mudéjar patio left over from the palace, and the church with its stunning techumbre (roof). Other highlights include the Mudéjar door, Gothic arches, superb Arabic inscriptions and the Arab baths.
Museo del Tratado de Tordesillas MUSEUM
(%983 77 10 67; Calle de Casas del Tratado; h10am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-May) F
Dedicated to the 1494 Treaty of Tordesillas, which divided the world into Spanish and Portuguese spheres of influence, the informative displays in this museum look at the world as it was before and after the treaty, with some fabulous old maps taking centre stage. There’s also a multilingual video presentation.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal San Antolín HOSTAL€
(%983 79 67 71; www.hostalsanantolin.com; Calle San Antolín 8; s/d/tr €25/40/50; aW)
Located near Plaza Mayor, this hostal’s overall aesthetic is modern, with rooms painted in bright pastel tones. Its main focus is the attached restaurant (mains €12 to €20), with raciones downstairs in the bar, a pretty flower-decked inner patio and an elegant menu.
Don Pancho SPANISH€€
(%983 77 01 74; www.restaurantedonpancho.com; Plaza Mayor 10; mains €7-18; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight)
Don Pancho, with its tiled bar and home cooking – including meats roasted in a wood-fire oven – is the best sit-down restaurant in the old town centre.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo (%983 77 10 67; www.tordesillas.net; Calle de Casas del Tratado; h10am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Apr) Next to the Casas del Tratado, near the Iglesia de San Antolín.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus station (%983 77 00 72; Avenida de Valladolid), regular buses depart for Valladolid (€2.80, 30 minutes) and Zamora (€5.90, one hour).
Toro
POP 9115
With a name that couldn’t be more Spanish and a stirring history that overshadows its present, Toro is your archetypal Castilian town. It was here that Fernando and Isabel cemented their primacy in Christian Spain at the Battle of Toro in 1476. The town sits on a rise high above the north bank of the Río Duero and has a charming historic centre with half-timbered houses and Romanesque churches.
1Sights
Colegiata Santa María La Mayor CHURCH
(Plaza de la Colegiata; church free, sacristy €4; h10.30am-2pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)
This 12th-century church rises above the town and boasts the magnificent Romanesque-Gothic Pórtico de la Majestad. Treasures inside include the famous 15th-century painting Virgen de la mosca (Virgin of the Fly) in the sacristy; see if you can spot the fly on the virgin’s robe. Entrance to the main sanctuary is free; an admission fee applies to the sacristy.
Monasterio Sancti Spiritus MONASTERY
(Calle del Canto 27; €4; h10.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar)
Southwest of the town centre, this monastery features a fine Renaissance cloister and the striking alabaster tomb of Beatriz de Portugal, wife of Juan I.
4Sleeping
Zaravencia HOTEL€
(%980 69 49 98; www.hotelzaravencia.com; Plaza Mayor 17; s/d incl breakfast from €44/55; aW)
Overlooking the lovely Plaza Mayor, this friendly place has a bar-restaurant downstairs and good-sized rooms, albeit with an anaemic decor of light-pine furniture and cream walls. Pay €10 more for a plaza view and balcony (it’s worth it), although be aware that it can be noisy on weekends.
5Eating
La Esquina de Colas TAPAS€
(%980 69 31 31; Plaza Mayor 24; tapas from €3; h11am-4pm & 8pm-midnight Thu-Tue)
Artfully conceived tapas lined up along the bar (try the marinated sardines) and a full list of toasts topped with all manner of tasty morsels make this Toro’s best place for tapas.
oAsador Castilla SPANISH€€
(%980 69 02 11; Plaza Bollos de Hito; mains €14-22; h1-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Excellent service, roasted meats (the cabrito – roasted goat kid – is a speciality) and a pleasantly modern dining area make this a good choice. It’s barely 50m from Plaza Mayor.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo (%980 69 47 47; www.turismotoro.com; Plaza Mayor 6; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Regular buses operate to Valladolid (€5.25, one hour) and Zamora (€3.20, 30 minutes). There are two direct services to Salamanca (€6.50, 1½ hours) on weekdays.
WORTH A TRIP
PAGOS DEL REY
This fine, state-of-the-art wine museum (%980 69 67 63; www.pagosdelreymuseodelvino.com; Avenida de los Comuneros 90; guided/unguided incl wine-tasting €6/4; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun Nov & Dec, closed Tue Jan-Mar) is a welcome addition to Castilla y León’s world of wine tourism, offering a fascinating insight into the Toro wine-producing area with plenty of opportunities to try (and buy) local wines. It’s in Morales de Toro, 8km east of Toro.
Zamora
POP 63,217
First appearances can be deceiving: as with so many Spanish towns, your introduction to provincial Zamora is likely to be nondescript apartment blocks. But persevere, because the casco historico (old town) is hauntingly beautiful, with sumptuous medieval monuments that have earned Zamora the popular sobriquet, the ‘Romanesque Museum’. It’s a subdued encore to the monumental splendour of Salamanca and one of the best places to be during Semana Santa.
DON’T MISS
ZAMORA’S BEST VIEW
Zamora has numerous eye-catching vantage points, many of them from high in the old town – from the ramparts of the Castillo, or from the Mirador del Troncoso behind the Municipal Tourist Office, for example. But to see Zamora’s old town in all its panoramic glory, head down from the old town to the riverbank and the pretty, multi-arched Puente de Piedra. Cross the bridge and walk southwest along the riverbank, past the small, sandy river beach, Playa de los Pelambres, to the modern Puente de los Poetas. Apart from being a lovely walk to get here, your reward is a fine view back towards the old town with the river in the foreground.
1Sights
Catedral CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %980 53 19 33; Plaza de la Catedral; adult/child €5/free; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Oct-Mar)
Zamora’s largely Romanesque cathedral features a square tower, an unusual, Byzantine-style dome surrounded by turrets, and the ornate Puerta del Obispo. The star attraction is the Museo Catedralicio, which features a collection of Flemish tapestries dating from the 15th century. Inside the 12th-century cathedral itself, the magnificent early-Renaissance choir stalls depict clerics, animals and a naughty encounter between a monk and a nun. Another major highlight is the Capilla de San Ildefonso, with its lovely Gothic frescos.
Castillo CASTLE
(Parque del Castillo; h10am-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar; c) F
This fine, aesthetically restored castle of 11th-century origin is filled with local sculptures; you can also climb the tower and walk the ramparts. The surrounding park is a lovely place for a picnic.
Museo Etnográfico MUSEUM
(%980 53 17 08; www.museo-etnografico.com; Plaza Viriato; adult/child €3/free; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun)
This excellent museum is a window onto the cultural history of Castilla y León, with everything from artefacts from everyday life down through the ages to sections on local legends and fiestas. It also has a dynamic calendar of temporary exhibitions, workshops and performances. Admission is free Tuesday through Thursday from 7pm to 8pm and Sunday from 5pm to 8pm.
Iglesia de la Magdalena CHURCH
(Rúa de los Francos; h10am-2pm & 5.30-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar) F
The southern doorway of this church, set along the main thoroughfare through the old town, is considered the city’s finest for its preponderance of floral motifs. The interior has the austere simplicity so typical of the Romanesque.
Iglesia de San Juan de Puerta Nueva CHURCH
(Plaza Mayor; h10am-2pm & 5.30-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar) F
Iglesia de San Juan de Puerta Nueva provides a lovely Romanesque centrepiece for the central Plaza Mayor. Right outside, there’s a fine statue of hooded Semana Santa penitents.
Iglesia de Santa María La Nueva CHURCH
(Calle de Carniceros; h10am-2pm & 5.30-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar) F
This pretty church is actually a medieval replica of a 7th-century church destroyed by fire in 1158.
Museo de Semana Santa MUSEUM
(%980 53 22 95; www.semanasantadezamora.com; Plaza de Santa María La Nueva; adult/child €4/2; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
This museum will initiate you into the weird and wonderful rites of Easter, Spanish-style. It showcases the carved and painted pasos (figures) that are paraded around town during the colourful processions. The hooded models are eerily lifelike.
TTours
Zamora’s tourist offices run two-hour guided tours around the old town at 11am daily from March to December. The tours (adult/child €8/free) leave from the Plaza de Viriato; the price doesn’t include entrance to the cathedral. Ask also about nocturnal guided tours (from €8 to €12) which leave around 8pm or 9pm depending on the season. For those unable to walk, there’s also a toy-like tren turístico (€2.50) that begins in the Plaza Mayor and does a circuit of the old town from April to September.
zFestivals & Events
Semana Santa RELIGIOUS
(Holy Week; hMar or Apr)
If you’re in Spain during Holy Week (the week before Easter), make your way to Zamora, a town made famous for its elaborate celebrations. It’s one of the most evocative places in the country to view the hooded processions. Watching the penitents weave their way through the historic streets, sometimes in near-total silence, is an experience you’ll never forget.
4Sleeping
oHostal Chiqui HOSTAL€
(%980 53 14 80; www.hostalchiqui.es; 2nd fl, Calle de Benavente 2; s/d from €35/45)
This fine place is one of the best urban hostales in this part of Castilla y León, getting rave reviews and plenty of repeat visitors. Every room is different, but all are stylish and colourful, and the owners are switched on to what travellers need. All in all, it’s outrageously good value.
5Eating
De Picoteo TAPAS, SPANISH€
(%980 03 21 55; Rúa los Notarios 3; tapas from €1.50, raciones €8-14; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Tucked away down a quiet back street in the old town, De Picoteo includes a fine arroz a la zamorano as part of its daily menú del día (€12), as well as some excellent and well-priced tapas and friendly service.
La Rua CASTILIAN€€
(%980 53 40 24; Rúa de los Francos 21; mains €9-19; h1-4pm Sun-Fri, 1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Sat)
Devoted to down-home Zamora cooking, this central place is a good place to try arroz a la zamorana (rice with pork and ham or chorizo), although you’ll usually need two people ordering for staff to make it. It is sometimes closed on Tuesdays in winter.
El Rincón de Antonio CASTILIAN€€€
(%980 53 53 70; www.elrincondeantonio.com; Rúa de los Francos 6; tapas from €1.90, mains €15-35, set menus €35.50-60; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun)
A fine place offering tapas in the bar (including 17 different cheese raciones from the Zamora area), as well as sit-down meals in a classy dining area. There’s a range of tasting menus in the restaurant, where dishes are classic with a contemporary twist – try, for example, the cockles with lime yoghurt, parsley mustard and dried tomatoes. Reservations recommended.
8Information
Municipal Tourist Office (%980 53 36 94; www.zamora-turismo.com; Plaza de Arias Gonzalo 6; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar)
Regional Tourist Office (%980 53 18 45; www.turismocastillayleon.com; Avenida Príncipe de Asturias 1; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Nov-Feb)
Provincial Tourist Office (%980 53 64 95; Plaza Viriato; h10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mar-Oct, 10am-2pm & 4-7pm Nov-Feb)
8Getting There & Away
Bus Services operate almost hourly to/from Salamanca (from €5.30, one hour, five to 13 daily), with less frequent departures on weekends. Other regular services include those to León (€9.75, 1½ hours), Valladolid (€7.65, 1½ hours) and Burgos (€16.80, 4½ hours).
Train The fast-train line has reached Zamora, cutting travelling times to Madrid (from €15.30, 2¼ hours, four daily) considerably. Trains also head to Valladolid (€12.45, 1½ hours, one daily) and Puebla de Sanabria (from €9.25, 1¼ hours, four daily).
ONE OF SPAIN’S OLDEST CHURCHES
The lonely 7th-century San Pedro de la Nave (%660 23 39 95, 696 29 24 00; Calle Larga, Campillo; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Fri & Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Oct-Mar), about 24km northwest of Zamora, is a rare and outstanding example of Visigoth church architecture, with blended Celtic, Germanic and Byzantine elements. Of special note are the intricately sculpted capitals. The church was moved to its present site in Campillo in 1930, during the construction of the Esla reservoir, northwest of Zamora. To get there from Zamora, take the N122, then follow the signs to Campillo.
Around Zamora
Sierra de la Culebra
The Sierra de la Culebra, running along the Spanish–Portuguese border between Puebla de Sanabria and Zamora, consists of some lovely rolling hill country and pretty stone villages that rarely see foreign visitors. Best of all, this is the best place in Europe to see wolves in the wild.
1Sights
oCentro de Lobo Ibérico de Castilla y León MUSEUM, ZOO
(%608 05 34 15, 980 56 76 38; www.centrodellobo.es; Robledo; with/without guided tour €8/6; h10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Fri-Sun, Tue-Thu by appointment)
This excellent interpretation centre devoted to the Iberian wolf opened in late 2015. Built in the form of a traditional, circular corral used by local farmers to protect their livestock from wolves, the centre has displays on legends surrounding wolves, their position in local culture and scientific studies of them. On the hill behind the main building, seven wolves inhabit three large enclosures, offering a good chance to take a photo if you missed seeing them in the wild.
2Activities
Wild Wolf Experience WILDLIFE
(%636 03 14 72; www.wildwolfexperience.com; five-night, four-day tour per person £995)
Englishman John Hallowell runs excellent wolf-watching (and birdwatching) excursions in the Sierra de la Culebra; he’s a knowledgable guide and puts together packages that begin and end at Madrid or Oviedo airports. He can also combine it with bear-watching in Asturias.
Zamora Natural WILDLIFE
(%655 82 18 99; www.zamoranatural.com; per person €50)
If you’re keen to catch a glimpse of a wolf or two in the Sierra de la Culebra, contact Zamora Natural, which runs year-round excursions, including a dawn and sunset spent at a lookout overlooking areas commonly frequented by wolves. Sightings are not guaranteed, though; chances range between 20% and 40%, with the best months from October through to May or June.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Territorio Lobo CULTURAL
(www.festivalterritoriolobo.com; Villardeciervos; hearly Aug)
This fun festival features live music, great local food, presentations about the Iberian wolf and excursions into the sierra.
4Sleeping
oSanta Cruz GUESTHOUSE€
(%619 85 00 10; www.loscuerragos.com; Santa Cruz de los Cuérragos; per person full board €30; pW)
Now here’s something a little bit special. Fernando and Carmen have been largely responsible for bringing this charming stone village back to life. Their lovely rural home is beautifully restored and decorated with exposed stone walls, polished floorboards, comfortable beds and a general warmth – it’s the sort of place where you’ll want to stay longer than you planned. Cash only.
Hotel Remesal HOTEL€
(%980 65 49 11; www.hotelruralremesal.com; Calle de Mediodía 25, Villardeciervos; s/d €38/55; pW)
This excellent three-star hotel in Villadeciervos has 10 pretty rooms, all with exposed stone walls and excellent heating. It’s on the main road through town and makes a convenient base for exploring the sierra, with numerous wolf-watching locales relatively nearby.
5Eating
La Enredadera SPANISH€€
(%980 59 31 21; Calle de Arriba 26, Ferreras de Arriba; mains €8-15, set lunch menu €13; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Thu-Tue)
What a find! In the otherwise-nondescript village of Ferreras de Arriba, close to some of the best wolf-watching spots, La Enredadera looks for all the world like a cool urban cafe. The food is thoughtfully presented, the service is friendly and its specialities include bacalao (cod) or carnes a la brasa (grilled meats).
Hotel Remesal SPANISH€€
(%980 65 49 11; www.hotelruralremesal.com; Calle de Mediodía 25, Villardeciervos; mains €8-17, set lunch menu weekdays/weekends €10/13; h1-4pm & 8.30-11pm)
Pass through this hotel’s workaday bar and into the light-filled restaurant, where staff serve up hearty meat dishes and a generous lunchtime menú del día.
8Getting There & Away
The N631, which connects Zamora with Puebla de Sanabria, runs parallel to the Sierra de la Culebra, with numerous side roads climbing up into the hills. Villardeciervos is the largest village in the region. Robledo, home to the Centro de Lobo interpretation centre, lies at the northwestern end of the range and is accessible from Puebla de Sanabria.
Puebla de Sanabria
POP 1460
Close to the Portuguese border, this captivating village is a tangle of medieval alleyways that unfold around a 15th-century castle and trickle down the hill. This is one of Spain’s loveliest hamlets and it’s well worth stopping overnight: the quiet cobblestone lanes make it feel like you’ve stepped back centuries.
1Sights
Castillo CASTLE
(adult/child under 12yr €3/free; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm; pc)
Crowning the village’s high point and dominating its skyline for kilometres around, the castle has some interesting displays on local history, flora and fauna; a slide show about the culture and history of the village; and a camera obscura. Kids will love the chance to try on the pieces of armour. The views from the ramparts are also superb.
Plaza Mayor SQUARE
At the top of the village, this striking town square is surrounded by some fine historical buildings. The 17th-century ayuntamiento (town hall) has a lovely arched facade and faces across the square to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Azogue (hnoon-2pm & 4-6pm Fri, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun), a pretty village church dating to the 12th century.
4Sleeping
Hostal Carlos V HOSTAL€
(%980 62 01 61; www.hostalcarlosv.es; Avenida Braganza 6; r from €50; aW)
The best budget deal here, the Carlos V has pleasant rooms, dazzling white bedding, extra fluffy towels, firm mattresses, rainforest shower heads and quality toiletries. There’s a good cafe-restaurant here as well. It’s at the bottom of the hill at the entrance to the old town.
La Hoja de Roble HISTORIC HOTEL€€
(%980 62 01 90; www.lahojaderoble.com; Calle Constanilla 13; s/d from €65/75; aW)
Close to the bottom of the hill where you begin the climb up into the old town, this hotel is an outstanding choice. The building dates to the 17th century and the rooms have a real sense of history (exposed stone walls, original wooden beams) without ever being oppressive. There’s also a wine bar and a good restaurant.
5Eating
oPosada Real La Cartería CASTILIAN€€
(%980 62 03 12; www.lacarteria.com; Calle de Rúa 16; mains €12-21; h1-4pm & 9pm-midnight)
The local obsession with wild mushrooms (setas and boletus) and trucha (trout) – caught in the river below the village – is alive and well here. Otherwise, it’s an atmospheric choice in one of the village’s most charming old buildings.
La Posada de Puebla de Sanabria CASTILIAN€€
(%980 62 03 47; www.laposadadelavilla.com; Plaza Mayor 3; mains €10-16; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11pm Thu-Tue)
This excellent restaurant right on Plaza Mayor has a white-tableclothed elegance and serves up local steaks and the wild mushrooms for which this region is famed. When the two are mixed, such as in the tenera estofada con boletus, a kind of hotpot of beef with wild mushrooms, the results are outstanding.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo (%980 62 07 34; www.turismosanabria.es; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm) Inside the castle. At the height of summer, it sometimes stays open as late as 10pm, but don’t count on it.
8Getting There & Away
There are sporadic bus services to Puebla de Sanabria from Zamora (from €8.50, 1¼ hours).
Palencia
POP 79,137
Subdued Palencia boasts an immense Gothic cathedral, some pretty squares and a colonnaded main pedestrian street (Calle Mayor) flanked by shops and several other churches. It’s an attractive town and one of the quieter provincial capitals. Most travellers come here on a day trip from Valladolid.
1Sights
oCatedral CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %979 70 13 47; www.catedraldepalencia.org; Calle Mayor Antigua 29; adult/child €5/1; h10am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Sat, 4.30-8pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-1.30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1.30pm & 4-5.30pm Sat, 4-7pm Sun Oct-Mar)
The sober exterior of this vast house of worship (one of the largest in Castilla) belies the extraordinary riches within – it’s widely known as ‘La Bella Desconocida’ (Unknown Beauty). The Puerta del Obispo (Bishop’s Door) is the highlight of the facade. Once inside, head for the Capilla El Sagrario: its ceiling-high altarpiece tells the story of Christ in dozens of exquisite panels. The stone screen behind the choir stalls is a masterpiece of bas-relief, attributed to Gil de Siloé.
Museo Diocesano MUSEUM
(%979 70 69 13; Calle de Mayor Antigua; guided tours in Spanish €4; hguided tours 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 4.30pm, 5.30pm & 6.30pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)
Within the 18th-century Palacio Episcopal, this museum showcases art from the Middle Ages through to the Renaissance. Pride of place goes to works by Pedro de Berruguete and an altarpiece starring the Virgin (attributed to Diego de Siloé).
Iglesia de San Miguel CHURCH
(%979 74 07 69; Calle de Mayor Antigua; h9.30am-1.30pm & 6.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1.30pm & 6.30-8pm Sun) F
This church stands out for its tall Gothic tower with a castle-like turret. San Miguel’s interior is unadorned and austerely beautiful. According to legend, El Cid was betrothed to his Doña Jimena here.
4Sleeping
Eurostars Diana Palace BUSINESS HOTEL€
(%979 01 80 50; www.eurostarsdianapalace.com; Avenida de Santander 12; s/d incl breakfast from €55/60; paW)
A comfortable, modern block of a hotel within walking distance of the town centre. The look is contemporary with a predominantly business clientele.
Hotel Colón 27 HOTEL€
(%979 74 07 00; www.hotelcolon27.com; Calle de Colón 27; s €35-55, d €40-70; aW)
This two-star place is decent downtown value, with comfortable, if drab, carpeted rooms sporting light-pine furniture, good firm mattresses, green-tiled bathrooms and small flat-screen TVs.
5Eating
Gloria Bendita CASTILIAN€€
(%979 10 65 04; Calle de la Puebla 8; mains €14-26; h1.30-4pm & 9pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun; W)
Ignore the drab surroundings of modern apartment blocks and seek out this, one of Palencia’s new breed of elegant restaurants serving sophisticated Castilian cuisine with a modern twist. Meat and fish dishes are the emphasis here, with classics such as braised beef served with oyster mushrooms. There are just a handful of tables in an intimate space, so reservations are essential.
oLucio Asador Gastrobar CASTILIAN€€€
(%979 74 81 90; www.restaurantecasalucio.com; Calle de Don Sancho 2; mains €20-26, raciones €4.50-18; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
This Palencia institution recently combined an asador (restaurant specialising in roasted meats) with a slick new gastrobar. Gone is the air of tradition, replaced by creativity bursting out of the kitchen. It still does the Castilian speciality of cordero asado (€39 for two) – exceptionally well – but it would be a shame to dine here and not try the creative tapas.
8Information
Patronato de Turismo (%979 70 65 23; www.turismocastillayleon.com; Calle Mayor 31; h9.30am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun Jul–mid-Sep, 9.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun mid-Sep–Jun) Information about Palencia province and city, encompassing both the municipal and regional tourist offices.
8Getting There & Away
Bus From the bus station (%979 74 32 22; Carerra del Cementerio) there are regular services to Valladolid (€4.55, 45 minutes), Madrid (from €9.34, 3½ hours) and Aguilar de Campóo (€8.15, 1½ hours).
Train The AVE fast train now connects Palencia to Madrid (€16.30 to €33.10, 1½ to three hours) and León (from €11.75, 45 minutes). Other services include Burgos (from €7.35, 45 minutes) and Valladolid (from €4.25, 30 minutes).
Around Palencia
The area around Palencia is relatively small compared to other provincial capitals, but there are three small churches – one the oldest in Spain, the other two among the most beautiful of all Spain’s rural churches – that are definitely worth visiting.
1Sights
oIglesia de Santa María La Blanca CHURCH
(%979 88 08 54; Villalcázar de Sirga; €1.50; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm daily Jun–mid-Sep, 10.30am-2pm & 4-6pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–Apr)
This extraordinary fortress-church, an important landmark along the Camino de Santiago, rises up from the Castilian plains between Frómista and Carrión de los Condes along the quiet P980. Begun in the 12th century and finished in the 14th, it spans both Romanesque and Gothic styles. Its soaring, elaborately carved portal is worth lingering over, while highlights inside include the royal tombs and an extravagant retablo mayor (altarpiece).
oIglesia de San Martín CHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %979 81 01 44; Avenida del Ejército Español, Frómista; adult/concession/child €1.50/1/free; h9.30am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Apr-Sep, 10am-2pm & 3.30-6.30pm Oct-Mar)
Dating from 1066 and restored in the early 20th century, this beautifully proportioned church is one of the loveliest Romanesque churches in rural Spain, adorned with a veritable menagerie of human and zoomorphic figures just below the eaves. The interior is a study in simplicity save for the column capitals, which are richly decorated.
There are two buses daily from Palencia (€3.50, 30 minutes), but most people visit en route between Palencia and the north.
Basílica de San Juan CHURCH
(%628 72 08 85; Baños de Cerrato; €2, Wed free; h10.30am-2pm & 4.50-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 11am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar)
In Baños de Cerrato, close to the singularly unattractive rail junction of Venta de Baños, lies Spain’s oldest church, the 7th-century Basílica de San Juan. Built by the Visigoths in 661 and modified many times since, its stone-and-terracotta facade exudes a pleasing, austere simplicity and features a 14th-century alabaster statue of St John the Baptist.
8Information
Oficina de Turismo de Frómista (%979 810 180; www.turismocastillayleon.com; Calle de Ingeniero Rivera; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) Helpful tourist office.
8Getting There & Away
You’ll need your own wheels to explore most of the area. Although there are two daily buses to Frómista from Palencia, you may find yourself stranded when you want to move on.
WORTH A TRIP
THE ROMANESQUE CIRCUIT
There are no fewer than 55 Romanesque churches in the cool, hilly countryside surrounding Aguilar de Campóo; you could easily spend a day tracking them as you meander along quiet country trails.
At Olleros de Pisuerga there’s a little church carved into rock; it’s signposted as ‘Ermita Rupestre’. Ask at Bar Feli on the main road through town for someone to open it up for you.
Further south, on a quiet back road, the Benedictine Monasterio de Santa María de Mave (%620 13 70 55, 979 12 36 11; hhours vary) has an interesting 13th-century Romanesque church, the only part of the complex open to visitors; ask at the cafe next door for the key. It’s off the main highway around 8km south of Aguilar de Campóo. Nearby, the Monasterio de San Andrés de Arroyo (www.sanandresdearroyo.es; guided tours €5; htours 11am, noon, 12.30pm, 4pm, 5pm & 6pm, closed mid-Dec–mid-Mar & Easter) is an outstanding Romanesque gem – especially its cloister, which dates from the 13th century. Guided tours in Spanish run hourly.
Montaña Palentina
These hills in the far north of Castilla y León offer a beautiful preview of the Cordillera Cantábrica, which divides Castilla from Spain’s northern Atlantic regions. The scenery around here is some of the prettiest in the region, with barely remembered Romanesque churches and quieter-than-quiet back roads, where you’re more likely to be slowed by a tractor than annoyed by a tour bus.
Aguilar de Campóo
POP 6979
Aguilar de Campóo is a bustling town with some interesting monuments. Most importantly, it is a gateway for the stunning scenery and Romanesque churches of the Montaña Palentina, and it lets you break up the journey between Palencia and Santander.
1Sights
Ermita de Santa Cecilia CHURCH
(%979 18 14 24; Calle de Santa Cecilia; admission €1; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 11am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar)
Overlooking the town and providing its picturesque backdrop is a 12th-century castillo (castle) and the graceful Romanesque Ermita de Santa Cecilia, a pretty and humble little hermitage that acts as a prelude to the Romanesque gems nearby in the province.
Monasterio de Santa María la Real MONASTERY
(%979 12 30 53; www.santamarialareal.org; Carretera de Cervera; adult/child €5/3; h10.30am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Jul-Sep, 4-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Jun)
Just outside town, on the highway to Cervera de Pisuerga, is the restored Romanesque Monasterio de Santa María la Real. Its 13th-century Gothic cloister with delicate capitals is glorious. You can visit the church without a guide, but you’ll need to join a tour to see the rest – check the website for times.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mesón Añejo SPANISH€€
(%979 12 29 71; www.mesonanejo.wixsite.com/anejo; Calle Comercio 10; mains €12-18; h1-3.30pm & 9-11.30pm Thu-Mon, 1-3.30pm Tue)
In an attractive brick-and-wood-beam setting, Mesón Añejo is our pick of the restaurants in town with specialities including carpaccio de solomillo relleno de foie (sirloin carpaccio filled with foie gras) or chuletón a la piedra (steak cooked on hot stones). Local produce is a recurring theme.
8Getting There & Away
Buses bound for Burgos, Palencia and Santander depart at least once daily. Up to five trains daily link Aguilar de Campóo with Palencia (from €8.85, one hour), but the station is 4km from town.
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