2Activities
Base Nautica Municipal WATER SPORTS
(
%93 221 04 32; www.basenautica.org; Avinguda de Litoral; 2hr lessons from €40, equipment hire per hour from €20, wetsuit hire per day €10; 
h10am-7pm; 
mPoblenou)
Just back from Platja de la Mar Bella, at Base Nautica Municipal you can learn the basics of kayaking, windsurfing, catamaran sailing or stand-up paddleboarding. You can also hire equipment here. Prices for lessons are cheaper in groups of two or more. Longer courses, running from eight to 12 hours over several days, are also available.
Aire De Barcelona SPA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 295 57 43; www.airedebarcelona.com; Passeig de Picasso 22; thermal baths & aromatherapy Mon-Thu €36, Fri-Sun €39; h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; mArc de Triomf)
With low lighting and relaxing perfumes wafting around you, this basement spa could be the perfect way to end a day. Hot, warm and cold baths, steam baths and options for various massages, including on a slab of hot marble, make for a delicious hour or so. Book ahead and bring a swimming costume.
Club Natació Atlètic-Barcelona SWIMMING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 00 10; www.cnab.cat; Plaça del Mar; day pass adult/child €12.55/7.15; h7am-11pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat, to 8pm Sun; 
gV15, 39, 59, 64, mBarceloneta)
Operating since 1907, this athletic club has one indoor and two outdoor pools. Of the latter, one is heated for lap swimming in winter. Admission includes use of the gym, spa and private beach access.
Piscines Bernat Picornell SWIMMING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 423 40 41; www.picornell.cat; Avinguda de l’Estadi 30-38; adult/child €11.90/7.30, nudist hours €6.55/4.70; h6.45am-midnight Mon-Fri, 7am-9pm Sat, 7.30am-4pm Sun; g13, 150)
Admission to Barcelona’s official Olympic pool on Montjuïc also includes use of the complex’s fitness room, sauna, Jacuzzi, steam bath and track. On Saturday nights, between 9pm and 11pm, the pool (with access to sauna and steam bath) is open only to nudists. On Sundays between October and May the indoor pool also opens for nudists only from 4.15pm to 6pm.
My Beautiful Parking CYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 510 8724; www.mybeautifulparking.com; Carrer de la Bòria 17; bike hire per 2hr/24hr €5/14; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, also Sun Apr-Sep; mJaume I)
Friendly shop with three types of bikes – foldable, ‘track’ or ‘city’ – to rent, from €5 for two hours.
TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN
Barcelona is great for older kids and teens – the Mediterranean attitude means they are included in many seemingly adult activities, like eating late meals at bars or restaurants. Babies will love the welcoming Mediterranean culture, and toddlers will be showered with attention.
Babysitting Get a babysitter at Tender Loving Canguros (https://tlcanguros.wordpress.com) or 5 Serveis (%93 412 56 76; www.5serveis.com; Carrer de Pelai 50; mCatalunya).
Supplies Nappies (diapers), dummies, creams and formula can be bought at any of the city’s many pharmacies. Nappies are cheaper in supermarkets.
Metro Barcelona’s metro is accessible and great for families with pushchairs. Be mindful of pickpockets.
Accessibility The Ciutat Vella, with its unpredictable traffic and cobbled streets, is less buggy-friendly than the rest of Barcelona.
TTours
Bus Turístic BUS
(%93 298 70 00; www.barcelonabusturistic.cat; adult/child 1 day €29/16, 2 days €39/16; h9am-8pm)
This hop-on, hop-off service covers three circuits (44 stops) linking virtually all the major tourist sights. Tourist offices, TMB transport authority offices and many hotels have leaflets explaining the system. Each of the two main circuits takes approximately two hours. The third circuit, from Port Olímpic to El Fòrum, runs from April to September and is less interesting.
Possession of a Bus Turístic ticket entitles you to discounts to some museums.
Barcelona Walking Tours WALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 285 38 34; www.barcelonaturisme.com; Plaça de Catalunya 17; mCatalunya)
The Oficina d’Informació de Turisme de Barcelona (MAP; %93 285 38 34; www.barcelonaturisme.com; Plaça de Catalunya 17-S, underground; h8.30am-9pm; mCatalunya) organises several one-hour guided walking tours (available in English) exploring the Barri Gòtic (adult/child €16/free), Picasso’s footsteps (€22/7) and Modernisme (€16/free). A two-hour gourmet food tour (€22/7) includes tastings. Various street-art walking and cycling tours (from €17) also take place. There is a 10% discount on all tours if you book online.
Devour Barcelona TOURS
(%695 111832; www.devourbarcelonafoodtours.com; tours €49-99)
Knowledgeable guides lead food tours around Gràcia, the Old City and Barceloneta that mix gastronomy with history. The various tastings and spots visited are especially focused on small, local producers and family-run joints. Most tours last three to four hours.
My Favourite Things TOURS
(%637 265405; www.myft.net; tours from €26)
Offers tours (with no more than 10 participants) based on numerous themes: street art, shopping, culinary tours, movies, musical journeys and forgotten neighbourhoods are among the offerings. Other activities include flamenco and salsa classes, cooking workshops, and bicycle rides in and out of Barcelona. Some of the more unusual activities cost more and times vary.
Bike Tours Barcelona CYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 21 05; www.biketoursbarcelona.com; Carrer de l’Esparteria 3; per person €25; h10am-7pm; mJaume I)
One of numerous operators offering daily three-hour tours of the Barri Gòtic, waterfront, La Sagrada Família and other Gaudí landmarks. Tours depart from the tourist office on Plaça de Sant Jaume; check the website for departure times, and for details of vineyard tours. Bike rental is also available, from €5 per hour.
zFestivals & Events
Festes de Santa Eulàlia CULTURAL
(http://lameva.barcelona.cat/santaeulalia; hFeb)
Around 12 February this big winter fest celebrates Barcelona’s first patron saint with a week of cultural events, including parades of gegants (giants), open-air art installations, theatre, correfocs (fire runs) and castells (human castles).
Dia de Sant Jordi CULTURAL
(h23 Apr)
This is the day of Catalonia’s patron saint (George) and also the Day of the Book: lovers and friends give one another books and roses, publishers launch new titles. La Rambla, Plaça de Sant Jaume and other central city streets and squares are filled with book and flower stalls.
Primavera Sound MUSIC
(www.primaverasound.com; hMay-Jun)
For three days in late May or early June, the Parc del Fòrum becomes the centre stage for a phenomenal range of international bands and DJs.
Sónar MUSIC
(www.sonar.es; hJun)
Usually in mid-June, Sónar is Barcelona’s massive celebration of electronic music, with DJs, exhibitions, sound labs, record fairs and urban art. Locations change each year.
La Revetlla de Sant Joan CULTURAL
(Nit de Sant Joan, Verbenas de Sant Joan; http://santjoan.bcn.cat; hJun)
On 23 June locals hit the streets or hold parties at home to celebrate the Revetlla de Sant Joan (St John’s Night), which involves drinking, dancing, bonfires and fireworks.
Pride Barcelona LGBT
(www.pridebarcelona.org; hlate Jun-early Jul)
The Barcelona gay-pride festival is a week of celebrations held in late June or early July with a crammed program of culture and concerts, along with the massive gay-pride march on Sunday.
Festa Major de Gràcia CULTURAL
(www.festamajordegracia.org; hAug)
Locals compete for the most elaborately decorated street in this popular week-long Gràcia festival held around 15 August. The fest also features free outdoor concerts, street fairs and other events.
Festes de la Mercè CULTURAL
(www.bcn.cat/merce; hSep)
The city’s biggest party involves four days of concerts, dancing, castells (human castles), a fireworks display synchronised with the Montjuïc fountains, dances of giants on the Saturday, and correfocs – a parade of fireworks-spitting monsters and demons who run with the crowd – on the Sunday. Held around 24 September.
Reis/Reyes CULTURAL
(h6 Jan)
Epifanía (Epiphany) on 6 January is also known as the Dia dels Reis Mags/Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day). The night before, children delight in the Cavalcada dels Reis Mags (Parade of the Three Kings), a colourful parade of floats and music during which tons of sweets are thrown into the crowd of eager kids (and not a few adults).
4Sleeping
4La Rambla & Barri Gòtic
Alberg Hostel Itaca HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 97 51; www.itacahostel.com; Carrer de Ripoll 21; dm €15-27, d without bathroom €76; 
a
W; mJaume I)
A bright, quiet hostel near the cathedral, Itaca has spacious dorms (sleeping six to 10 people) with parquet floors and spring colours, as well as two doubles. There’s a lively vibe, and the hostel organises activities (pub crawls, flamenco concerts, free daily walking tours), making it a good option for solo travellers.
Kabul HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 318 51 90; www.kabul.es; Plaça Reial 17; dm from €11; aW; mLiceu)
The dorm rooms are small and cramped, the service is brusque, and if you’re a light sleeper you can forget about falling asleep before 4am. But for partiers, centrally located Kabul is a top choice. It’s easy to meet other travellers, with its nightly activities (pub crawls, club nights) and lively common areas (including a lounge with pool table, and a roof terrace).
Hotel Continental HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 25 70; www.hotelcontinental.com; La Rambla 138; s/d from €110/116; aW; mCatalunya)
In 1937 George Orwell stayed here on his return from the front during the Spanish Civil War, when Barcelona was tense with factional strife. The Continental’s rooms are worn and rather spartan, but have romantic touches like ceiling fans, brass bedsteads and frilly bedclothes. An extra €20 yields a room with a small balcony overlooking La Rambla, and there is a free 24-hour buffet.
Vrabac B&B€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %663 494029; https://vrabacguesthouse.wordpress.com; Carrer de la Portaferrissa 14; s/d incl breakfast €65/85; aW; mLiceu)
In a central location just off La Rambla, Vrabac is set in a beautifully restored heritage building complete with original decorative ceilings, exposed sandstone walls and large oil paintings. Rooms vary in size and features – the best have elegant ceramic tile floors, private bathrooms and sizeable balconies. The cheapest are small and basic, lack a bathroom and are not recommended. Cash only.
Soho House BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 220 46 00; www.sohohousebarcelona.com; Plaça del Duc de Medinaceli 4; r from €300; aW
s; mDrassanes)
An elegant outpost of the famous London member’s club, with luxuriously appointed rooms, an exclusive bar peopled with celebs, and a rooftop pool with incredible views out to sea. Cecconi’s, the Italian restaurant on the ground floor, is worth a visit in its own right.
Serras Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 169 18 68; www.hoteltheserrasbarcelona.com; Passeig de Colom 9; r from €266; aWs; mBarceloneta)
A fresh and funky five-star that has every comfort – including a rooftop bar with a small dipping pool and a terrific view over the port – but never feels stuffy. Rooms at the front are brighter and have a better view (from the bathtub, in some cases) but rooms at the side are spared the traffic noise.
Hotel Neri DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 304 06 55; www.hotelneri.com; Carrer de Sant Sever 5; d €362; aW; mLiceu)
This tranquil hotel occupies a beautifully adapted, centuries-old building backing onto Plaça de Sant Felip Neri. The sandstone walls and timber furnishings lend a sense of history, while the rooms feature cutting-edge technology, including plasma-screen TVs and infrared lights in the stone-clad designer bathrooms. Choose from a menu of sheets and pillows, and sun yourself on the roof deck.
Hotel 1898 LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 552 95 52; www.hotel1898.com; La Rambla 109; d €189-221; aWs; mLiceu)
The former Compañía de Tabacos Filipinas (Philippines Tobacco Company) building has been resurrected as a luxury hotel, complete with an idyllic rooftop bar and pool. Some rooms are smallish, but deluxe rooms and suites have their own terraces. All combine modern comfort and elegance, with hardwood floors and tasteful furniture.
DO Reial BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 481 36 66; www.hoteldoreial.com; Plaça Reial 1; s/d incl breakfast from €288/360; aWs; mLiceu)
Overlooking the magnificent plaza for which it is named, this 18-room property has handsomely designed rooms with beamed ceilings, hardwood floors and all-important soundproofing. The service is excellent and the facilities extensive, with a roof terrace (bar in summer), dipping pool, solarium and spa. Its excellent market-to-table restaurants draw in visiting foodies.
4El Raval
Hotel Peninsular HOTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 31 38; www.hotelpeninsular.net; Carrer de Sant Pau 34; s/d €53/80; aW; mLiceu)
An oasis on the edge of the slightly dicey Barri Xino, this former convent (which was connected by tunnel to the Església de Sant Agustí) has a plant-draped atrium extending its height and most of its length. The 60 rooms are simple, with tiled floors and whitewash, but spacious and well kept. There are some great bargains to be had during quiet periods.
oBarceló Raval DESIGN HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 320 14 90; www.barceloraval.com; Rambla del Raval 17-21; r from €144; aW; mLiceu)
Part of the city’s plans to pull the El Raval district up by the bootstraps, this cylindrical designer hotel tower makes a 21st-century splash. The rooftop terrace offers fabulous views and the B-Lounge bar-restaurant is a lively joint for meals and cocktails. Rooms have slick aesthetics (white with lime green or ruby red splashes of colour), Nespresso machines and iPod docks.
Chic & Basic Ramblas DESIGN HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 71 11; www.chicandbasicramblashotel.com; Passatge Gutenberg 7; r €156-208; aW; mDrassanes)
The latest in the Chic & Basic chain is the most riotous to date, with quirky and colourful interiors that hit you from the second you walk in and see a vintage Seat 600 car in the foyer. Note that the name is misleading – the hotel is a couple of blocks into El Raval.
The rooms themselves are solid blocks of colour and each loosely pays homage to an aspect of Barcelona life in the 1960s. All have balconies and very basic kitchens.
Hotel Sant Agustí HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 318 16 58; www.hotelsa.com; Plaça de Sant Agustí 3; r €115-152; aW; mLiceu)
This former 18th-century monastery opened as a hotel in 1840, making it the city’s oldest. The location is perfect – a quick stroll off La Rambla on a curious square. Rooms sparkle, and are mostly spacious and light filled. Consider the attic room with sloping ceiling and view of the rooftops.
Casa Camper DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 342 62 80; www.casacamper.com; Carrer d’Elisabets 11; s/d €277/297; aW; mCatalunya)
The massive foyer looks like a contemporary art museum, but the rooms, decorated in red, black and white, are the real surprise. Most have a sleeping and bathroom area, where you can contemplate the hanging gardens outside your window, with a separate, private sitting room with balcony, TV and hammock located across the corridor.
If you prefer more privacy, the city-view rooms integrate the sleeping and living areas. Get to the rooftop for sweeping cityscapes.
Hotel España HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 550 00 00; www.hotelespanya.com; Carrer de Sant Pau 9-11; r €261-282; aWs; mLiceu)
Known for its wonderful Modernista interiors in the dining rooms and bar, in which architect Domènech i Montaner, sculptor Eusebi Arnau and painter Ramon Casas had a hand, this hotel offers plush, contemporary rooms in a building that still manages to ooze a little history. There’s a plunge pool and sun deck on the roof, along with a bar.
The ground-floor restaurant, La Fonda, serves good-value Catalan dishes.
4La Ribera
Pensió 2000 PENSION€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 74 66; www.pensio2000.com; Carrer de Sant Pere més Alt 6; d €70-80; aW; mUrquinaona)
This 1st-floor, family-run place is opposite the anything-but-simple Palau de la Música Catalana. Seven reasonably spacious doubles have mosaic-tiled floors, and all have private bathrooms. You can eat your breakfast in the little courtyard.
Pensión Francia PENSION€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 03 76; www.milisa.com/P.Francia; Carrer de Rera Palau 4; d €90; W; mBarceloneta)
The homey smell of laundry pervades this quaint little pensión in a great location close to the shore, the Parc de la Ciutadella and the nightlife of El Born. The 11 simple rooms are kept spick and span, with nothing much in the way of frills. Rooms with balconies benefit from plenty of natural light but little noise.
Hotel Banys Orientals BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 84 60; www.hotelbanysorientals.com; Carrer de l’Argenteria 37; s/d €72/120; aW; mJaume I)
Book well ahead to get into this magnetically popular designer haunt. Cool blues and aquamarines combine with dark-hued floors to lend this clean-lined boutique hotel a quiet charm. All rooms, on the small side, look onto the street or back lanes. There are more spacious suites in two other nearby buildings.
Grand Hotel Central DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 295 79 00; www.grandhotelcentral.com; Via Laietana 30; d €218; 
paWs; mJaume I)
With supersoundproofed rooms no smaller than 21 sq metres, this design hotel, complete with rooftop infinity pool, is one of the standout hotel offerings along Via Laietana. Rooms are decorated in style, with high ceilings, muted colours (beiges, browns and creams), dark wooden floors and subtle lighting.
4Barceloneta & the Waterfront
Equity Point Sea Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 231 20 45; www.equity-point.com; Plaça del Mar 1-4; dm €20-34; a
iW; gV15, 39, mBarceloneta)
This busy backpackers hostel is perched near the sea in a rather ugly high-rise. Rooms are basic, cramped and noisy (bring earplugs), but you won’t find a room closer to the beach. A self-catering kitchen helps keep costs down. Note that no alcohol is allowed.
Bed & Beach GUESTHOUSE€€
(%630 528156; www.bedandbeachbarcelona.com; Pasaje General Bassols 26; d €75-130, s/d without bathroom €40/70; aW; mBogatell)
Just 200m west of the beach on a quiet narrow street, this eight-room guesthouse has clean and comfortable rooms of varying styles. Some lack natural light, while others are bright, with simple modern furnishings and in-room kitchens. There’s also a shared kitchen for self-caterers. The rooftop terrace is a fabulous spot for an afternoon drink.
Slippers are provided for the no-shoes-indoors policy.
Poblenou Bed & Breakfast GUESTHOUSE€€
(%93 221 26 01; www.hostalpoblenou.com; Carrer del Taulat 30; s/d from €55/88; aiW; mLlacuna)
Just back from the beach and mere steps from the restaurant-lined Rambla del Poblenou, this 1930s house, with high ceilings and beautifully tiled floors, has six appealing rooms named for Spanish artists. Some of its uniquely decorated rooms have little balconies, and all have a fresh feel, light colours and comfortable beds. Minimum stay two nights from May to November.
Hotel 54 HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 225 00 54; www.hotel54barceloneta.es; Passeig de Joan de Borbó 54; s/d from €135/155; aiW; mBarceloneta)
Hotel 54 is all about location. Modern rooms, with dark tile floors and designer bathrooms, are sought after for the marina and sunset views. Other rooms look out over Barceloneta’s lanes. You can also sit on the roof terrace and enjoy the panorama over the city and harbour.
Pullman Barcelona Skipper Hotel HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 65 65; www.pullmanhotels.com; Avinguda del Litoral 10; d/ste from €212/475; paiWs; mCiutadella Vila Olímpica)
Mesmerising views of Frank Gehry’s shimmering Peix sculpture unfold from the rooftop infinity pool at this five-star hotel and from some of the 241 rooms, which are decorated in sleek timbers (some open to terraces). There’s a second swimming pool at the base of the winged towers in the courtyard. Family-friendly facilities include interconnecting rooms, cots and babysitting services.
W Barcelona HOTEL€€€
(%93 295 28 00; www.w-barcelona.com; Plaça de la Rosa del Vents 1; d/ste from €314/554; paiWs; gV15, 39, mBarceloneta)
Designed by Barcelona-born architect Ricardo Bofill and opened in 2009, this glinting, spinnaker-shaped glass tower is a coastal landmark. Inside are 473 rooms and 67 suites that epitomise contemporary chic. Guests can flit between the gym, infinity pool (with an adjacent cocktail bar) and spa as well as the gourmet restaurant by star chef Carles Abellán.
4La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample
Urbany Barcelona HOSTEL€
(%93 245 84 14; www.urbanyhostels.com; Avinguda Meridiana 97; dm/s/tw from €29.50/118/126; aiW; mClot, Encants)
Near El Poblenou, this massive 400-bed hostel is a good place to meet other travellers, with its own bar and airy lounge set amid graffiti-esque artwork, plus a large terrace with views of Jean Nouvel’s glowing Torre Glòries. Single and twin rooms have en suite bathrooms and small fridges. Self-caterers can cook up a storm in the kitchen.
Guests also have access to a pool and gym nearby.
oPraktik Rambla BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 343 66 90; www.hotelpraktikrambla.com; Rambla de Catalunya 27; s/d/tr from €119/140/165; aW; mPasseig de Gràcia)
This Modernista gem hides a gorgeous little boutique number. While the high ceilings and most of the original tile floors have been maintained, the 43 rooms have bold ceramics, spot lighting and contemporary art. There’s a chilled reading area and deck-style lounge terrace. The handy location on a tree-lined boulevard is another plus.
This is Praktik’s flagship; its other hotels in the same neighbourhood are the Praktik Bakery (with an in-house bakery), Praktik Garden (filled with plants) and Praktik Vinoteca (themed around wine).
Hotel Constanza BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 270 19 10; www.hotelconstanza.com; Carrer del Bruc 33; s/d/f from €85/135/190; aW; mUrquinaona)
This 46-room beauty has stolen the hearts of many a visitor to Barcelona. Design elements abound and little details like flowers in the bathroom add charm. Strewn with white sofas, the roof terrace is a stylish spot to relax while looking over L’Eixample’s rooftops. Street-facing rooms have balconies.
Family rooms come with fold-out couches; baby cots are available. Several rooms are equipped for wheelchairs.
Anakena House HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 467 36 15; www.anakenahouse.com; Carrer del Consell de Cent 276; d from €157; aW; mPasseig de Gràcia)
The 1st floor of this Modernista building designed by Catalan architect Enric Sagnier i Villavecchia has been transformed into an intimate, elegant hotel. Its eight rooms have olive tones, antique furniture and designer lighting. All but one, which overlooks the courtyard, have street views.
Casa Bonay HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 545 80 70; www.casabonay.com; Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 700; d/f from €150/234; aW; mTetuan)
Hip Casa Bonay has sparingly decorated, stylishly tiled rooms, some with glassed-in balconies and others with terraces and outdoor showers. A bar opens on the roof terrace in summer. The hotel’s unique selling point is the range of ‘guest’ shops, bars and restaurants it houses downstairs. These include a specialist coffee bar, a Vietnamese barbecue and a juice bar.
Room Mate Pau HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 343 63 00; www.room-matehotels.com; Carrer de Fontanella 7; d/ste from €192/252; aW; mCatalunya)
Just off Plaça de Catalunya, Room Mate Pau sits somewhere between an upscale hostel and boutique hotel. Its 66 rooms are cleverly configured with designer furnishings, good mattresses and USB-connected TVs. The striking interior terrace with a bar and vertical garden wall draws a young, hip crowd. Higher-priced rooms and suites come with terraces.
In the same neighbourhood are four other, equally striking Room Mate hotels: Anna, Emma, Carla and Gerard.
Hostal Oliva HOSTAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 488 01 62; www.hostaloliva.com; Passeig de Gràcia 32; s/d from €79/89, without bathroom from €64/74; aiW; mPasseig de Gràcia)
A picturesque antique lift wheezes its way up to this 4th-floor hostal, a terrific, reliable cheapie in one of the city’s most expensive neighbourhoods. Some of the single rooms can barely fit a bed but the doubles are big enough, and light and airy (some with tiled floors, others with parquet).
Avoid room 5, which is next to the entrance and night buzzer.
oThe One Barcelona DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 214 20 70; www.hotelstheone.com; Carrer de Provença 277; d/ste from €230/330; mDiagonal)
Opened in 2017, this stunning five-star property has 89 light-filled rooms including 25 suites. Works by Chilean artist Fernando Prats are displayed in rooms and public areas. A panoramic terrace (open May to October), with a bar, restaurant and plunge pool, and a spa with an indoor pool, Finnish sauna and 24-hour gym are just some of the up-to-the-minute amenities.
Margot House BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 272 00 76; www.margothouse.es; Passeig de Gràcia 46; d/ste from €202/310; aiW; mPasseig de Gràcia)
Halfway up Passeig de Gràcia, this elegant boutique hotel with nine rooms (including five suites) is perfect for those who want to be in the thick of it but still need peace, complete with a large, quiet book-filled sitting room with an honesty bar. Splash out for the front rooms, with more natural light. Rates include a fabulous gourmet buffet breakfast.
Cotton House HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 450 50 45; www.hotelcottonhouse.com; Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 670; d/tr/ste from €240/340/490; aW; mUrquinaona)
This splendid luxury hotel occupies the former headquarters of the Cottonmakers’ Guild, something which is alluded to throughout, from the huge sprays of cotton bolls in the lobby to the room names (damask, taffeta etc). There’s even a space off the library where you can select fabric and have a shirt custom made.
Mandarin Oriental DESIGN HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 151 88 88; www.mandarinoriental.com/barcelona; Passeig de Gràcia 38-40; d/ste from €625/1350; paWs; mPasseig de Gràcia)
At this imposing former bank, the 98 rooms have a contemporary designer style with straight lines, lots of white and muted colours. Many of the standard rooms (no smaller than 32 sq metres) have deep bathtubs, and all overlook either Passeig de Gràcia or an interior sculpted garden. Amenities include a spa with lap pool, fitness area and Michelin-starred restaurant.
4Gràcia & Park Güell
oCasa Gràcia HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 174 05 28; www.casagraciabcn.com; Passeig de Gràcia 116; dm/s/d/tr/apt from €31/106/120/147/194; aiW; mDiagonal)
A hostel with a difference, the hip Casa Gràcia has raised the bar for budget accommodation. Enticing common spaces include a terrace, library nook and artistically decorated lounge as well as a fully equipped self-catering kitchen – not to mention a restaurant and DJ-fuelled bar. Dorms aside, there are private rooms and apartments with their own terraces.
All are decorated in crisp white with bursts of colour. Casa Gràcia hosts a wide range of activities and events: cocktail-making workshops, yoga classes, wine tastings and screenings of foreign films (and FC Barcelona games) on the big-screen TV.
Generator Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 220 03 77; www.generatorhostels.com; Carrer de Còrsega 373; dm/d/q/penthouse from €20/109/186/329; mDiagonal)
Part of the design-forward Generator brand, this stylish hostel has much to recommend it, including a quirky bar made from reclaimed lumber and recycled elevator parts and festooned with an explosion of paper lanterns. The rooms themselves are quite simple if adequately equipped – unless you opt for the penthouse room with a terrace offering panoramic views over the city.
oHotel Casa Fuster HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 255 30 00; www.hotelcasafuster.com; Passeig de Gràcia 132; d/ste from €287/396; paiWs; mDiagonal)
This sumptuous Modernista mansion, built in 1908–11, is one of Barcelona’s most luxurious hotels. Standard rooms are plush, if small. Period features have been restored at considerable cost and complemented by hydromassage tubs, plasma TVs and king-size beds. The rooftop terrace (with pool) offers spectacular views.
4Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta
Alberg Mare de Déu de Montserrat HOSTEL€
(%93 210 51 51; www.xanascat.cat; Passeig de la Mare de Déu del Coll 41-51; dm €24; pW; g87, mVallcarca)
The main building of this 197-bed hostel is a magnificent former mansion with a Mudéjar-style lobby. Rooms sleep from six to 12 and the common areas are extensive and relaxed, though due to the thick walls, wi-fi can be hit-and-miss. It’s 4km north of Barcelona’s city centre, 100m uphill northeast from the Móra d’Ebre–Sant Eudald bus stop.
Anita’s Bed & Breakfast B&B€€
(%670 064258; www.anitasbarcelona.com; Carrer d’August Font 24; d incl breakfast from €95; iW; g124)
Spectacular views of the city and the Mediterranean beyond extend from the three rooms at this hillside B&B. Rooms are generously sized, with sitting areas and en suite bathrooms. The continental buffet breakfast (included in the rate) can be taken on the communal terrace, which also has sweeping vistas.
Fairmont Rey Juan Carlos I LUXURY HOTEL€€€
(%93 364 40 40; www.fairmont.com/barcelona; Avinguda Diagonal 661-671; d/ste from €229/389; paiWs; mZona Universitària)
Like an ultramodern lighthouse at this southwest gateway to the city, the glass towers of this luxury megahotel hold more than 400 spacious rooms, most with stunning views. Extensive gardens, once part of the farmhouse that stood here until well into the 20th century, surround the hotel. Facilities include two outdoor pools, a lake, a fitness club and five restaurants.
If you can drag yourself away, the nearby metro can take you to central Barcelona in around 20 minutes.
4Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni
Pars Tailor’s Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 250 56 84; www.parshostels.com; Carrer de Sepúlveda 146; dm €25-33; aW; mUrgell)
Decorated like a mid-20th-century tailor’s shop, with rooms themed around different fabrics, this popular hostel’s common areas have old sewing machines, lovingly framed brassieres and vintage fixtures. You can shoot a round on the old billiards table, hang out in the comfy lounge, cook a meal in the well-equipped kitchen, or join one of the activities on offer.
The hostel organises day trips and pub crawls, hires bikes, arranges cooking classes (such as paella making), and holds evening gatherings over tapas and drinks. Friendly staff have good local insight into Barcelona.
Sant Jordi Mambo Tango HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 442 51 64; www.hostelmambotango.com; Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 23; dm/d from €33/104, d with shared bathroom from €74; aiW; mParal·lel)
A fun, international hang-out, the Mambo Tango has basic dorms (sleeping four to nine) and a welcoming, somewhat chaotic atmosphere. The beds are a touch on the hard side, and light sleepers should bring earplugs. With pub crawls and other nightly activities, it’s a good place to meet other travellers.
oHotel Brummell BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 125 86 22; www.hotelbrummell.com; Carrer Nou de la Rambla 174; d from €160; aWs; mParal·lel)
Stylish Brummell has been turning heads since its 2015 opening. It’s a thoughtfully designed hotel with a creative soul and great atmosphere. The 20 bright rooms have a minimalist design, and the best of the bunch have sizeable terraces with views and even outdoor soaking tubs. The cheapest (the ‘poolside classic’ rooms) feel a little tight.
Rooms are only a small part of Brummell’s appeal. There’s a great on-site restaurant/cafe, Brummell Kitchen (its weekend brunch is an event), a terrace with a small dip pool, and kind-hearted staff who are happy to share insight into Barcelona’s lesser-known gems. Don’t miss the vending machines in the corridor with bottles of wine and gourmet snacks, or the free yoga and exercise classes.
Hotel Market BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 325 12 05; www.hotelmarketbarcelona.com; Carrer del Comte Borrell 68; d/ste from €158/186; aiW; mSant Antoni)
Attractively located in a renovated building along a narrow lane north of the grand old Sant Antoni market, this chic spot has 68 black-and-white-toned rooms with wide-plank floors, oversized armoires, bold art prints and nicely designed bathrooms (stone basins, rain showers). Some rooms have tiny (two-seat) balconies; suites come with terraces.
There’s a first-rate restaurant and bar on the main floor, with outdoor seating on the lane. Room rates plummet outside high season.
5Eating
Barcelona has a celebrated food scene fuelled by a combination of world-class chefs, imaginative recipes and magnificent ingredients fresh from farms and the sea. Catalan culinary masterminds like Ferran and Albert Adrià, and Carles Abellán have become international icons, reinventing the world of haute cuisine, while classic old-world Catalan recipes continue to earn accolades in dining rooms and tapas bars across the city.
5La Rambla & Barri Gòtic
Federal CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 280 81 71; www.federalcafe.es; Passatge de la Pau 11; mains €7-10; h9am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 11.30pm Fri & Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; W; mDrassanes)
Don’t be intimidated by the industrial chic, the sea of open MacBooks or the stack of design mags – this branch of the Poble Sec Federal mothership is incredibly welcoming, with healthy, hearty and good-value food. Choose a salad and a topping (poached eggs, strips of chicken) or a yellow curry, say, and follow it up with a moist slab of carrot cake.
La Plata TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 315 10 09; www.barlaplata.com; Carrer de la Mercè 28; tapas €2.50-5; h9am-3.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I)
Tucked away on a narrow lane near the waterfront, La Plata is a humble but well-loved bodega that serves just three plates: pescadito frito (small fried fish), butifarra (sausage) and tomato salad. Add in the drinkable, affordable wines (per glass €1.20) and you have the makings of a fine predinner tapas spot.
Milk INTERNATIONAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 09 22; www.milkbarcelona.com; Carrer d’en Gignàs 21; mains €9-12; h9am-2am Thu-Mon, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
Also known to many as an enticing cocktail spot, Irish-run Milk’s key role for Barcelona night owls is providing morning-after brunches (served till 4.30pm). Avoid direct sunlight and tuck into pancakes, eggs Benedict and other hangover dishes in a cosy lounge-like setting complete with ornate wallpaper, framed prints on the wall and cushion-lined seating. The musical selection is also notable.
Benedict BRUNCH€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 250 75 11; www.benedictbcn.com; Carrer d’en Gignás 23; mains €10-11; h9am-4pm Mon, 9am-4pm & 7pm-2am Tue-Fri, 9am-2.30am Sat & Sun; W; mJaume I)
As the name suggests, brunch is the main event at friendly little Benedict, with eggs prepared every which way and an option for the full English fry-up. There’s also a list of handmade burgers and club sandwiches, and in the evening various tapas are served, along with onion rings, deep-fried brie, chicken wings and other American favourites.
Taller de Tapas CATALAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 80 20; www.tallerdetapas.com; Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol 9; mains €7-10; hnoon-1am May-Sep, noon-midnight Oct-Apr; W; mLiceu)
A well-placed spot with outdoor seating on Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol, with a long list of tapas and more substantial bites.
oLa Vinateria del Call SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 60 92; www.lavinateriadelcall.com; Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call 9; raciones €7-12; h7.30pm-1am; W; mJaume I)
In a magical setting in the former Jewish quarter, this tiny jewel-box of a restaurant serves up tasty Iberian dishes including Galician octopus, cider-cooked chorizo and the Catalan escalivada (roasted peppers, aubergine and onions) with anchovies. Portions are small and made for sharing, and there’s a good and affordable selection of wines.
oCafè de l’Acadèmia CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 82 53; Carrer dels Lledó 1; mains €15-20; h1-3.30pm & 8-11pm Mon-Fri; W; mJaume I)
Expect a mix of traditional Catalan dishes with the occasional creative twist. At lunchtime, local city hall workers pounce on the menú del día (€15.75). In the evening it is rather more romantic, as low lighting emphasises the intimacy of the beamed ceiling and stone walls. On warm days you can also dine in the pretty square at the front.
Belmonte TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 76 84; Carrer de la Mercè 29; tapas €4-10, mains €13-14; h8pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1-3.30pm & 8pm-midnight Sat Jul-Oct, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Thu, 1-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Fri & Sat Oct-Jun; W; mJaume I)
This tiny tapas joint in the southern reaches of Barri Gòtic whips up beautifully prepared small plates – including an excellent truita (tortilla), rich patatons a la sal (salted new potatoes with romesco sauce) and tender carpaccio de pop (octopus carpaccio). Wash it down with the homemade vermut (vermouth).
Ocaña INTERNATIONAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 676 48 14; www.ocana.cat; Plaça Reial 13; mains €9.50-16; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; W; mLiceu)
A flamboyant but elegantly designed space of high ceilings, chandeliers and plush furnishings, Ocaña blends late-night carousing with serious eating. The Spanish and Catalan dishes are given a creative and successful twist, and are now complemented on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights by a superb selection of Mexican dishes.
You can still have a cocktail at Moorish-inspired Apotheke downstairs, or out on the Plaça Reial terrace, but it’s a shame to pass up on the culinary offering.
Can Culleretes CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 30 22; www.culleretes.com; Carrer d’en Quintana 5; mains €10-18; h1.30-3.45pm & 8-10.45pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.45pm Sun; W; mLiceu)
Founded in 1786, Barcelona’s oldest restaurant is still going strong, with tourists and locals flocking here to enjoy its rambling interior, old-fashioned tile-filled decor and enormous helpings of traditional Catalan food, including fresh seafood and sticky stews. From Tuesday to Friday there is a fixed lunch menu for €14.50.
Pla FUSION€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 412 65 52; www.restaurantpla.cat; Carrer de la Bellafila 5; mains €17-23; h1.30-5.30pm & 7-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
Koy Shunka JAPANESE€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 412 79 39; www.koyshunka.com; Carrer de Copons 7; tasting menu €89-132; h1.30-3pm & 8.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3pm Sun; mUrquinaona)
Down a narrow lane north of the cathedral, Koy Shunka opens a portal to exquisite dishes from the East – mouth-watering sushi, sashimi, seared Wagyu beef and flavour-rich seaweed salads are served alongside inventive cooked fusion dishes such as steamed clams with sake or tempura of scallops and king prawns with Japanese mushrooms. Don’t miss the house speciality of tender toro (tuna belly).
Most diners sit at the large wraparound counter, where you can watch the culinary wizardry in action. Set multicourse menus are pricey but well worth it for those seeking a truly extraordinary dining experience.
Els Quatre Gats CATALAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 41 40; www.4gats.com; Carrer de Montsió 3; mains €23-29; h1-4pm & 7pm-1am; mUrquinaona)
Once the lair of Barcelona’s Modernista artists, Els Quatre Gats is a stunning example of the movement, inside and out, with its colourful tiles, geometric brickwork and wooden fittings. The restaurant is not quite as thrilling as its setting, though you can just have a coffee and a croissant in the cafe (open from 9am to 1am) at the front.
5El Raval
Sésamo VEGETARIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 441 64 11; Carrer de Sant Antoni Abat 52; mains €9-13; h7pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W
v; mSant Antoni)
Widely held to be the best veggie restaurant in the city (admittedly not as great an accolade as it might be elsewhere), Sésamo is a cosy, fun place. The menu is mainly tapas, and most people go for the seven-course tapas menu (€25, wine included), but there are a few more substantial dishes. Nice touches include the home-baked bread and cakes.
Bar Muy Buenas CATALAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 807 28 57; Carrer del Carme 63; mains €9-13; h1-3.30pm & 8-11pm Sun-Thu, 1-4pm & 8-11.30pm Fri & Sat; mLiceu)
After a couple of years in the doldrums, the Modernista classic Muy Buenas, which has been a bar since 1924, is back on its feet and under new ownership. Its stunning and sinuous century-old woodwork has been meticulously restored, as have its etched-glass windows and marble bar. These days it’s more restaurant than bar, though the cocktails are impressive.
Though the kitchen (which turns out traditional Catalan dishes) is only open during the listed hours, Muy Buenas is open all day, until 2am (later on Friday and Saturday nights). From Monday to Friday it offers a two-course menú del día for €13.
Caravelle INTERNATIONAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 98 92; www.caravelle.es; Carrer del Pintor Fortuny 31; mains €10-13; h9.30am-5pm Mon, 9.30am-midnight Tue-Thu, 10am-1am Fri & Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; mLiceu)
A bright little joint, beloved of the hipster element of El Raval and anyone with a discerning palate. It dishes up tacos as you’ve never tasted them (cod, lime aioli and radish, and pulled pork with roast corn and avocado), a superior steak sandwich on homemade brioche with pickled celeriac, and all manner of soul food.
Drinks are every bit as inventive – try the homemade ginger beer or grapefruit soda.
Bar Kasparo CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 20 72; www.kasparo.es; Plaça de Vicenç Martorell 4; mains €7-11; h9am-11pm Tue-Sat, to midnight Jun-Sep; W; mCatalunya)
This friendly outdoor cafe, which overlooks a traffic-free square with a playground, is a favourite with the neighbourhood parents and serves juices, tapas and salads, as well as more substantial dishes from around the globe.
Elisabets CATALAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 58 26; Carrer d’Elisabets 2-4; mains €8-10; h7.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 1.30am Fri Sep-Jul; mCatalunya)
A great old neighbourhood restaurant, its walls dotted with old radio sets, Elisabets is known for its unpretentious, good-value cooking. The menú del día (€12) changes daily, but if you prefer a la carta, try the ragú de jabalí (wild boar stew) and finish with mel i mató (Catalan dessert made from cheese and honey).
oBar Pinotxo TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 17 31; www.pinotxobar.com; Mercat de la Boqueria; mains €9-17; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat; mLiceu)
Bar Pinotxo is arguably La Boqueria’s, and even Barcelona’s, best tapas bar. The ever-charming owner, Juanito, might serve up chickpeas with pine nuts and raisins, a soft mix of potato and spinach sprinkled with salt, soft baby squid with cannellini beans, or a quivering cube of caramel-sweet pork belly.
Gats FUSION€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 144 00 44; www.encompaniadelobos.com; Carrer d’en Xuclà 7; mains €9-19; hnoon-midnight; W; mLiceu)
A relatively recent addition to the barri, Gats has been an instant hit, and its terrace is constantly full. A deliciously fresh spread of dishes ranges from baba ganoush to Thai green curry, but there’s plenty here that’s local – try the ‘mountain paella’ with sausage, or the smoked sardines with honey and truffle. The kitchen is open all day.
Flax & Kale VEGETARIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 56 64; www.teresacarles.com; Carrer dels Tallers 74; mains €13-18; h9.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; Wv; mUniversitat)
A far cry from the veggie restaurants of old, Flax & Kale marks a new approach (for Barcelona, at least) that declares that going meat-free does not mean giving up on choice, creativity or style. There are gluten-free and vegan options, and dishes include tacos with guacamole, aubergine and sour cashew cream, or Penang red curry.
Bar Cañete TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 270 34 58; www.barcanete.com; Carrer de la Uniò 17; tapas from €4.50; h1pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W; mLiceu)
Part of a trend in creating upmarket versions of traditional bars with food to match. A long, narrow dining room holds an open kitchen along which runs a wooden bar, where diners sit – from here, they can point at what they want or order from a long list of classic tapas and platillos (plates for sharing).
Many of the choices (such as the mussels with a citric dressing) have a modern twist.
5La Ribera
Paradiso/Pastrami Bar SMOKERY, COCKTAIL BAR€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %639 310671; www.rooftopsmokehouse.com; Carrer de Rera Palau 4; mains €7-9; h7pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; mBarceloneta)
A kind of Narnia-in-reverse, Paradiso is fronted with a snowy-white space, not much bigger than a wardrobe, with pastrami sandwiches, pulled pork and other home-cured delights. But this is only the portal – pull open the huge wooden fridge door, and step through into a glam, sexy speakeasy of a cocktail bar guaranteed to raise the most world-weary of eyebrows.
Euskal Etxea TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 21 85; www.euskaletxeataberna.com; Placeta de Montcada 1; tapas €2.10; h10am-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
Barcelona has plenty of Basque and pseudo-Basque tapas bars, but this is the real deal. It captures the feel of San Sebastián better than many of its newer competitors. Choose your pintxos (Basque tapas piled on slices of bread), sip txakoli (Basque white wine), and keep the toothpicks so the staff can count them up and work out your bill.
Koku Kitchen Buns ASIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 269 65 36; www.kokukitchen.es; Carrer del Comerç 29; mains €9-11; h1-4pm & 7.30-11.30pm; W; mBarceloneta)
Steamed buns stuffed with beef or pork with coriander, peanuts, pickled fennel and a sake sauce are the big draw here, but the starters, sides and even the excellent home-made lemonade are also worthy of note, as is the list of inventive cocktails. A great-value lunch menú del día is €13.
Cat Bar VEGAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.catbarcat.com; Carrer de la Bòria 17; mains €6-9; h1-10pm Thu-Mon; Wv; mJaume I)
This tiny little joint squeezes in a vegan kitchen, a great selection of local artisanal beers and a smattering of live music. The food mostly centres on a list of different burgers, plus a gluten-free dish of the day, tapas and hummus. The beers change regularly, but there is always one wheat, one porter, one gluten-free and an IPA.
Bormuth TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 21 86; Carrer del Rec 31; tapas €4-10; hnoon-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
Bormuth has tapped into the vogue for old-school tapas with modern-day service and decor, and serves all the old favourites – patatas bravas (potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce), ensaladilla (Russian salad) and tortilla – along with some less predictable and superbly prepared numbers (try the chargrilled red pepper with black pudding).
The split-level dining room is never less than animated, but there’s a more peaceful space with a single long table if you can assemble a group.
En Aparté FRENCH€
(%93 269 13 35; www.enaparte.es; Carrer de Lluís el Piadós 2; mains €8-13; h10am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 12.30am Sun; W; mArc de Triomf)
A great low-key place for good-quality French food, just off the quiet Plaça de Sant Pere. The restaurant is small but spacious, with sewing-machine tables and vintage details, and floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in some wonderful early-afternoon sunlight.
The lunch menu (€13) is excellent, offering a salad (such as beetroot, apple and walnut), and a quiche or another dish, such as stuffed peppers with a potato gratin. Brunch – including French toast, eggs Benedict and muesli with yoghurt – is served on weekends.
oCasa Delfín CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 50 88; www.facebook.com/Casa-Delfin-326525620764565/; Passeig del Born 36; mains €10-17; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
One of Barcelona’s culinary delights, Casa Delfín is everything you dream of when you think of Catalan (and Mediterranean) cooking. Start with the tangy and sweet calçots (spring onions; February and March only) or salt-strewn Padrón peppers, moving on to grilled sardines speckled with parsley, then tackle the meaty monkfish roasted in white wine and garlic.
Or tease some mussels and clams out of their shells while crunching on the Catalan coca flatbread – done here to perfection and smeared with tomatoes and olive oil. For the finale, choose the Eton Mess (the English owner Kate’s only tribute to her homeland) – a long glass of mashed-up cream, meringue and berries.
Nakashita JAPANESE€€
(%93 295 53 78; www.nakashitabcn.com; Carrer del Rec Comtal 15; mains €12-22; h1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sun; W; mArc de Triomf)
Brazil’s particular immigration story means it has a tradition of superb Japanese food, and the Brazilian chef at Nakashita is no slouch, turning out excellent sashimi, maki rolls, softshell crab and kakiage (a mix of tempura). One of the best Japanese restaurants in the city, with just a handful of tables – book if you can.
Bar del Pla TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 30 03; www.bardelpla.cat; Carrer de Montcada 2; mains €12-16; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; mJaume I)
A bright and occasionally rowdy place, with glorious Catalan tiling, a vaulted ceiling and bottles of wine lining the walls. At first glance, the tapas at informal Bar del Pla are traditionally Spanish, but the riffs on a theme display an assured touch. Try the ham croquettes, Wagyu burger, T-bone steak or marinated salmon, yoghurt and mustard.
Ginette FRENCH€€
(%93 280 95 03; www.ginette.es; Carrer del Rec Comtal 12; mains €16-18; h8.30am-2am Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, 6pm-2am Mon-Sat Jul & Aug; mArc de Triomf)
Opened in 2017, with a Parisian chef at the helm, Ginette blends Scandinavian and Barcelona chic in its decor, but the menu has an overwhelmingly Gallic feel, with dishes such as cod meunière with hazelnuts or duck magret with orange. There are also tapas – and even these include a croque monsieur with Comté cheese.
El Chigre TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 782 63 30; http://elchigre1769.com; Carrer dels Sombrerers 7; mains €10-17; hnoon-11.45pm, from 1pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar; mJaume I)
Styling itself as part Asturian cider house and part Catalan vermuteria (bar specialising in vermouth, served on ice with a slice of orange and a green olive), El Chigre brings sophisticated versions of classic dishes from both regions to its menu. Try the superb tomato and tuna salad with tomato gelée, or the puffed corn tortos with lamb stew.
Santagustina TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 315 79 04; www.santagustina.com; Plaça Sant Agustí Vell 9; mains €9-14; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; mArc de Triomf)
This tapas bar–restaurant has tables outside on a charming little plaza. Invoking a slightly wicked ecclesiastical theme, with menus sectioned into ‘Blessed Tapas’, ‘Divine Tapas’, ‘Immaculate Tapas’ and ‘Temptations’, it serves up well-executed Spanish and Catalan food – oxtail stew, ‘Granny’s meatballs’, grilled octopus etc – in small portions designed for sharing. Service could be a little more attentive.
5Barceloneta & the Waterfront
El 58 TAPAS€
(Le cinquante huit; Rambla del Poblenou 58; tapas €3.50-12; h1.30-11pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; mLlacuna)
This French-Catalan place serves imaginative, beautifully prepared tapas dishes: codfish balls with romesco sauce, scallop ceviche, tartiflette (cheese, ham and potato casserole), salmon tartare. Solo diners can take a seat at the marble-topped front bar. The back dining room with its exposed brick walls, industrial light fixtures and local artworks is a lively place to linger over a long meal.
L’Òstia TAPAS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 47 58; www.facebook.com/barceloneta; Plaça de la Barceloneta 1; tapas €2.50-8, mains €11-19; h10am-11.45pm; W; mBarceloneta)
On a charming hidden square, this neighbourhood bar opens to a terrace facing Barceloneta’s beautiful baroque church Església de Sant Miquel del Port. Tapas reflect the area’s heritage but also come with fusion twists like Szechuan pepper-dusted sardines or Spanish omelette with duck and truffles. Wines are primarily Catalan; the sangría is some of the best around.
A heated marquee sets up on the terrace in winter.
La Bodega La Peninsular TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 40 89; www.tabernaycafetin.es; Carrer del Mar 29; tapas €3.50-9; h11.30am-midnight; mBarceloneta) 
S
Wine barrels double as tables at this traditional bodega, where over three dozen different tapas dishes pair with Catalan vintages and house-made vermouth. Adhering to the Slow Food ethos, ingredients are organic, seasonal and locally sourced; try the mojama (salt-cured, air-dried tuna) or renowned spicy bombas (meat and potato croquettes) topped with tangy aioli. It’s standing room only most nights.
Timesburg Poblenou BURGERS€
(www.timesburg.com; Carrer de Pujades 168; burgers €6-13; h1-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight; W; mPoblenou)
Barcelona success story Timesburg has several locations including this cavernous mezzanine space in El Poblenou. Burger buns are stamped with its logo; its 16 different varieties include La Massimo (beef, parmesan, sun-dried tomato, sunflower seeds and red onion) and Balear (Mallorca sausage, Mahón cheese, capers and honey mayo). Hand-cut fries are twice-fried in olive oil.
Més De Vi TAPAS€
(%93 007 91 51; www.mesdvi.cat; Carrer de Marià Aguiló 123; tapas €8-13; h7-11pm Mon, 1-4pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat; mPoblenou)
At this buzzing wine bar, Catalan wines are accompanied by tapas dishes that are inventive and delicious: courgette pesto and burrata salad, red tuna pickled with Peruvian yellow chilli, smoked mackerel with aubergine caviar and lamb neck with mashed baked turnip. Brick walls, hardwood floors, timber tables and studded Chesterfield sofas give it a cosy ambience.
Cal Cuc ASIAN€
(%93 000 28 37; www.mosquitotapas.com/calcuc; Carrer del Taulat 109; tapas €4-8; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 1pm-1am Fri-Sun; v; mPoblenou)
At this sleek spot, Asian street-food-inspired tapas such as Chinese-inspired bang bang aubergine (in spicy sauce), gyoza (Japanese pan-fried dumplings), kimchi (Korean fermented cabbage), tofu larb (Laotian marinated tofu) and takoyaki (Japanese battered octopus) pair with craft beers from local brewers including BeerCat, Guineu and Les Clandestines.
Filferro TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 98 36; Carrer de Sant Carles 29; tapas €5-8, mains €7-12; h10am-1am; Wv; mBarceloneta)
One of the few spots in Barceloneta where the focus isn’t on seafood, Filferro has a loyal following for its good-value tapas, bocadillos (filled rolls), salads and pasta. It has a warmly lit and eclectically furnished interior, or you can dine at an outdoor table on the square (popular with families, with a playground just a few steps away).
Aguaribay VEGETARIAN€
(%93 300 37 90; www.aguaribay-bcn.com; Carrer del Taulat 95; mains €7-13; h1-4pm Mon-Wed, 1-4pm & 8.30-11pm Thu-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun; v; mLlacuna) S
Polished Aguaribay serves a small well-executed à la carte menu by night: miso and smoked tofu meatballs, soba noodles with shiitake mushrooms, and seasonal vegetables with rich black rice, along with craft beers and biodynamic wines. At lunchtime, stop in for the prix-fixe lunch specials, which change daily. All ingredients are organic; vegan and gluten-free options abound.
Guingueta de la Barceloneta SPANISH€
(www.carlesabellan.com; Platja de la Barceloneta; dishes €6-16; h9am-midnight Mar-Nov; mBarceloneta)
Part of Carles Abellán’s gastronomic empire, this open-sided beachside spot serves salads, sandwiches (including a Spanish omelette sandwich) and tapas (such as cod croquettes, marinated anchovies, and cockles with tomato salsa), accompanied by freshly squeezed juices, individual twists on classic cocktails (Napoleon Sour, Cubano Loco) and sparkling sea views.
Baluard Barceloneta BAKERY€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Carrer del Baluard 38; items €1-3.50; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat; mBarceloneta)
Baluard has one of the best ranges of freshly baked breads in the city, along with filled baguettes that are perfect for beach picnics. It also bakes a range of tempting pastries, such as xuiuixo (deep-fried custard-filled pastries from Girona) and bunyols (doughnut-shaped pastries stuffed with cheese or jam), and tarts such as fig or wild berries.
El Ben Plantat INTERNATIONAL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 624 38 32; Carrer de Sant Carles 21; tapas €5-10, lunch specials €9; h1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Wed-Mon; v; mBarceloneta)
A welcome find in seafood-centric Barceloneta, El Ben Plantat serves a varied menu of small plates, with excellent vegetarian choices (hummus, guacamole and chips, tofu pâté, stuffed marinated mushrooms). On weekdays you’ll also find good value multicourse lunch specials – mussels with potatoes, homemade falafel, sausage with ratatouille, vegetable croquettes.
La Cova Fumada TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 40 61; Carrer del Baluard 56; tapas €4-12; h9am-3.15pm Mon-Wed, 9am-3.15pm & 6-8.15pm Thu & Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mBarceloneta)
There’s no sign and the setting is decidedly downmarket, but this tiny, buzzing family-run tapas spot always packs in a crowd. The secret? Mouthwatering pulpo (octopus), calamari, sardines, bombas (meat and potato croquettes served with aioli) and grilled carxofes (artichokes) cooked in the open kitchen. Everything is amazingly fresh.
Bitácora TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 11 10; Carrer de Balboa 1; tapas €4-12.50; h9am-2.30am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; mBarceloneta)
Bitácora is a neighbourhood favourite for its simple but congenial ambience and well-priced tapas plates, which come in ample portions. There’s also a small hidden terrace at the back. Top picks: ceviche de pescado (fish ceviche), chipirones (baby squid) and gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns). Cash only, no cards.
There’s a second location in El Poblenou (%93 277 87 12; www.facebook.com/bitacorapoblenou; Plaça de la Unió 24; tapas €2-8, one/two/three course lunch €5/7/10; h9am-1am; mPoblenou).
Can Maño SEAFOOD€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Carrer del Baluard 12; mains €7-15; h8-11pm Mon, 8.30am-4pm & 8-11pm Tue-Fri, 8.30am-4pm Sat; mBarceloneta)
It may look like a dive, but you’ll need to be prepared to wait before being squeezed in at a packed table for a raucous night of raciones (full-plate-size tapas serving) over a bottle of cloudy white turbio (Galician wine) at this family-run stalwart. The seafood is abundant, with first-rate squid, prawns and fish served at rock-bottom prices.
Vaso de Oro TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 30 98; www.vasodeoro.com; Carrer de Balboa 6; tapas €4-12; h11am-midnight; mBarceloneta)
Always packed with diners, this narrow bar gathers a high-spirited crowd who come for fantastic tapas. Wisecracking, white-jacketed waiters serve plates of grilled gambes (prawns), foie a la plancha (grilled liver pâté) or solomillo (sirloin) chunks. Want something a little different to drink? Ask for a flauta cincuenta – half lager and half dark beer.
El Tío Ché CAFE€
(www.eltioche.es; Rambla del Poblenou 44; dishes €2-6; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; mPoblenou)
First opened back in 1912 (in El Born), this local icon is famed for its horchata, a sweet and refreshing if mildly grainy drink made of tigernut milk. Some love it, others less so, though you can also opt for other homemade beverages along with sandwiches and ice cream.
oIsla Tortuga TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 198 40 74; www.encompaniadelobos.com/en/isla-tortuga; Carrer de Llauder 1; tapas €3-9.50, mains €11-18; hnoon-midnight; W; mBarceloneta)
Stripped timbers, bare bricks and a namesake tortuga (turtle) above the bar create a stylised castaway feel in this chic space. Seasonally changing menus incorporate over 20 contemporary tapas dishes (eg vodka-steamed clams, stingray with black butter, grilled octopus with Kalamata tapenade, kimchi-stuffed Padrón peppers) along with tacos (Peking duck, crackling prawn, marinated rib) and several varieties of paella.
oCan Recasens CATALAN€€
(%93 300 81 23; www.facebook.com/canrecasens; Rambla del Poblenou 102; mains €8-21; h8.30am-1.30pm & 5-11.45pm Mon, to 1am Tue-Thu, to 3am Fri, 9am-1pm & 9pm-3am Sat, 9pm-1am Sun; mPoblenou)
One of El Poblenou’s most romantic settings, Can Recasens hides a warren of warmly lit rooms full of oil paintings, flickering candles, fairy lights and baskets of fruit. The food is outstanding, with a mix of salads, smoked meats, fondues, and open sandwiches topped with delicacies like wild mushrooms and Brie, escalivada (grilled vegetables) and Gruyère, and spicy chorizo.
There’s live jazz every second Wednesday.
Green Spot VEGETARIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 802 55 65; www.encompaniadelobos.com/en/the-green-spot; Carrer de la Reina Cristina 12; mains €10-15; h12.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun; v; mBarceloneta)
Purple carrot salad with papaya and feta, aubergine and courgette tacos, buckwheat and spinach spätzle (hand-rolled egg noodles), sweet potato gnocchi with black truffle, and hemp pizza with cashew cheese and asparagus are among the inventive vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes presented in a stylish, minimalist dining room with vaulted ceilings. Live flamenco plays on Tuesday evenings.
Kaiku SEAFOOD€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 90 82; www.restaurantkaiku.cat; Plaça del Mar 1; mains €13-19; h1-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun; mBarceloneta)
Overlooking the waterfront at the south end of Barceloneta, Kaiku incorporates ingredients from the nearby fish market in dishes such as crayfish with mint, swordfish carpaccio with avocado and sun-dried tomatoes, chilli-smeared tuna with green apples and mushrooms, and rice dishes for two.
oOaxaca MEXICAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 018 06 59; www.oaxacacuinamexicana.com; Pla de Palau 19; mains €22-32; h1-4pm & 8pm-midnight; v; mBarceloneta)
Chef Joan Bagur trained in Mexico for a decade under traditional cooks, and has his own garden of Mexican plants, which supplies ingredients for culinary creations like coyoacán (roast corn with chilli ash) and cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork tacos). Hefty tables are made from Mexican hardwoods and original Mexican art lines the walls; there’s alfresco seating under the cloisters.
Bagur’s neighbouring bar, La Mezcalería d’Oaxaca, is guarded by a carved wooden calaca (Day of the Dead skeleton) and serves over 200 varieties of mezcal in a striking space with cowhide-covered chairs, taxidermied birds and silent Mexican black-and-white films screening on one wall.
oLa Barra de Carles Abellán SEAFOOD€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 760 51 29; www.carlesabellan.com/mis-restaurantes/la-barra; Passeig Joan de Borbó 19; tapas €5-8.50, mains €24-36; h1.30-4pm & 8-11pm; mBarceloneta)
Catalan chef Carles Abellán’s stunning glass-encased, glossy-tiled restaurant celebrates seafood in tapas such as pickled octopus, mini anchovy omelettes and fried oyster with salmon roe. Even more show-stopping are the mains: grilled razor clams with ponzu citrus sauce, squid filled with spicy poached egg yolk, stir-fried sea cucumber, and lush lobster paella with smoked prawns.
Video screens let diners watch the kitchen staff in action downstairs. Most seats are at long, communal counter-style tables, making it great for solo diners.
Restaurant 7 Portes SEAFOOD€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 30 33; www.7portes.com; Passeig d’Isabel II 14; mains €19-32; h1pm-1am; W; mBarceloneta)
Founded in 1836 as a cafe and converted into a restaurant in 1929, 7 Portes has a grand setting beneath the cloisters, and exudes an old-world atmosphere with its wood panelling, tiles, mirrors and plaques naming luminaries – such as Orson Welles – who have passed through. Paella is the speciality, or try the gran plat de marisc (‘big plate of seafood’).
Els Pescadors SEAFOOD€€€
(%93 225 20 18; www.elspescadors.com; Plaça de Prim 1; mains €18-42; h1-3.45pm & 8-11.30pm; W; mPoblenou)
On a picturesque square lined with low houses and long-established South American bella ombre trees, this quaint family restaurant continues to serve some of the city’s best grilled fish and seafood-and-rice dishes. There are three dining areas inside: two are quite modern, while the main room preserves its old tavern flavour. On warm nights, try for a table outside.
Can Majó SEAFOOD€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 221 54 55; www.canmajo.es; Carrer del Almirall Aixada 23; mains €15-36; h1-4pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; mBarceloneta)
On a square across from the beachside promenade, with outdoor tables and heat lamps in winter, Can Majó has a long and steady reputation for fine seafood, particularly its rice dishes and bountiful suquets (fish stews). The bouillabaisse of fish and seafood is succulent.
5La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample
oTapas 24 TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 488 09 77; www.carlesabellan.com; Carrer de la Diputació 269; tapas €2.20-12; h9am-midnight; W; mPasseig de Gràcia)
Hotshot chef Carles Abellán runs this basement tapas haven known for its gourmet versions of old faves. Highlights include the bikini (toasted ham and cheese sandwich – here the ham is cured and the truffle makes all the difference) and zesty boquerones al limón (lemon-marinated anchovies). You can’t book but it’s worth the wait.
For dessert, choose xocolata amb pa, sal i oli (delicious balls of chocolate in olive oil with a touch of salt and wafer).
Hawker 45 ASIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 763 83 15; Carrer de Casp 45; mains €8.50-16; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-4pm & 8-11.30pm Sat, 12.30-4pm Sun; mTetuan)
Taking its cues from an Asian hawkers market, this aromatic spot sizzles up street-food dishes such as spicy Malaysian squid laksa, Indonesian lamb satay, Korean Kalbi pork ribs with rice cakes, Thai crying tiger beef salad and Singaporean green mango sambal with steamed crab. Its six-course tasting menu (€35) is best paired with craft beers (€42) or Asian-inspired cocktails (€60).
Dine at the long, red bar overlooking the open kitchen or head out the back to the cavernous postindustrial dining space with bare beams and ventilation pipes.
Copasetic CAFE€
(%93 532 76 66; www.copaseticbarcelona.com; Carrer de la Diputació 55; mains €6-13.50; h10.30am-midnight Tue & Wed, to 1am Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 5.30pm Sun; Wv; mRocafort)
Decked out with retro furniture, Copasetic has a fun, friendly vibe. The menu holds plenty for everyone, whether your thing is eggs Benedict, wild-berry tartlets or a fat, juicy burger. There are lots of vegetarian, gluten-free and organic options, and superb (and reasonably priced) weekend brunches. Lunch menús (Tuesday to Friday) cost between €9.50 and €12.
Charlot Cafè CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 451 15 65; Carrer d’Aribau 67; dishes €6.50-13.50; hkitchen 8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7am-10pm Sat, bar to 3am Fri & Sat; Wv; 
dFGC Provença)
Movie stills and posters, from Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Pulp Fiction, line the walls at Charlot. Get a morning kick-start with a truffled tortilla española (Spanish omelette) or eggs baked in Iberian ham, or drop by for lunch (sautéed quinoa salad; burgers with hand-cut fries) or dinner (duck with blackberry sauce). Craft beers and cocktails are all-day-long options.
Cantina Mexicana MEXICAN€
(%93 667 66 68; www.cantinalamexicana.es; Carrer de València 427; mains €7-13; h1pm-midnight; v; mSagrada Família)
Just far enough from La Sagrada Família to dodge the crowds, this simply decorated spot serves authentic Mexican fare, including over 20 different corn or flour tacos (such as sautéed shrimp and beans), cochinita pibil (traditional slow-roasted pork seasoned with annatto seeds) and four styles of ceviche. Vegetarian options include a delicious pumpkin-flower quesadilla.
Granja Petitbo MEDITERRANEAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 265 65 03; www.granjapetitbo.com; Passeig de Sant Joan 82; sandwiches €4-8, mains €8-12; h9am-11pm Mon-Wed, 9am-11.30pm Thu & Fri, 10am-11.30pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun; W; mGirona)
High ceilings, battered leather armchairs and dramatic flower arrangements set the tone in this sunny little corner cafe, beloved of local hipsters and young families. As well as an all-day parade of homemade cakes, freshly squeezed juices and superior coffee, there are burgers, salads and pastas, along with a brunch menu on weekends.
Koyuki JAPANESE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 237 84 90; http://koyuki.eltenedor.rest; Carrer de Còrsega 242; mains €8-12; h1-3.30pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun; dFGC Provença)
This unassuming basement Japanese diner is one of those rough-edged diamonds. Order from the menu complete with pictures courtesy of the Japanese owner – you won’t be disappointed. The variety of sashimi moriawase is generous and constantly fresh. The tempura udon is a particularly hearty noodle option with breaded shrimp.
oAuto Rosellon INTERNATIONAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 853 93 20; www.autorosellon.com; Carrer de Rosselló 182; mains €12-18; h8am-1am Mon-Wed, 8am-2am Thu & Fri, 9am-2am Sat, 9am-midnight Sun; Wv; dFGC Provença) S
With cornflower-blue paintwork and all its fresh produce on display, Auto Rosellon utilises mostly organic ingredients sourced from small producers and its own garden in dishes like eggs Benedict, salmon tartare with avocado, ricotta gnocchi with confit tomatoes and thyme, and slow-roasted pork tacos. Homemade juices and rose lemonade are exceptional; there are also great cocktails and craft beers.
Mr Kao DIM SUM€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 445 25 88; www.misterkao.com; Carrer de València 271; dim sum €2.80-4, mains €11-28; h12.30-3.30pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 12.30-3.30pm Sun; mPasseig de Gràcia)
Within the grand Hotel Claris, this elegant Shanghai-style dim sum restaurant serves top-flight dumplings. They’re not cheap, but every bite is a joy; the jiao zi with pig’s trotters are especially good, as are the siu mai with langoustines and trout roe. More substantial dishes include Peking duck and noodles with wild mushrooms, poached egg and truffles.
Entrepanes Díaz SANDWICHES€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 415 75 82; Carrer de Pau Claris 189; sandwiches €6-10, tapas €3-10; h1pm-midnight; mDiagonal)
Gourmet sandwiches, from roast beef to suckling pig or crispy squid with squid-ink aioli, are the highlight at this sparkling old-style bar, along with sharing plates of Spanish specialities such as sea urchins and prawn fritters or blood-sausage croquettes. The policy of only hiring experienced waiters over 50 lends a certain gravitas to the operation and some especially charming service.
Black-and-white photos of Barcelona line the walls.
Parking Pizza PIZZA€€
(%93 633 96 45; www.parkingpizza.com; Carrer de Londres 98; pizza €9.50-14.50; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; dFGC Provença)
In this garage-style space, you might well have to share a long unvarnished wooden table, squeezed in on a cardboard box stool. The wood-fired pizzas more than make up for any forced intimacy, however, as do the starters, which include a creamy burrata ‘stracciatella’ and a superb red quinoa salad with guacamole and a poached egg.
Chicha Limoná MEDITERRANEAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 277 64 03; www.chichalimona.com; Passeig de Sant Joan 80; mains €12-17; h9.30am-1am Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun; W; mTetuan)
Passeig de Sant Joan is a hipster hot spot, and bright, bustling Chicha Limoná has provided them with somewhere great to eat. Steak tartare with yuzu dressing, rabbit tacos, yoghurt-marinated salmon and tequila, mango and chilli sorbet are among the oft-changing dishes (set menu €13.90), along with steaming pizza.
Cerveseria Catalana TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 216 03 68; Carrer de Mallorca 236; tapas €3-14; h9am-1.30am; dFGC Provença)
The ‘Catalan Brewery’ is perfect at all hours: for a morning coffee and croissant, or sangria, montaditos (canapés) and tapas at lunch or dinner. You can sit at the bar, on the pavement terrace or in the restaurant at the back. The variety of hot tapas, salads and other snacks draws a well-dressed crowd. No reservations.
Cafe Emma BISTRO€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 215 12 16; www.cafe-emma.com; Carrer de Pau Claris 142; mains €14-25.50; h8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; W; mPasseig de Grácia)
French-inspired Cafe Emma combines local and international influences, though wines are sourced solely from France. It’s a superb bet for all-day dining on its terrace, in its dining room or at its bar. Tartines (open sandwiches), such as goat cheese, beetroot and roast beef, are excellent. Don’t miss the freshly shucked oysters with a crisp glass of white in season.
La Bodegueta Provença TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 215 17 25; www.provenca.labodegueta.cat; Carrer de Provença 233; tapas €6-15, mains €9.50-16; h7am-1.45am Mon-Fri, 8am-1.45am Sat, 1pm-12.45am Sun; W; dFGC Provença)
The ‘Little Wine Cellar’ offers classic tapas presented with a touch of class, from calamares a la andaluza (lightly battered squid rings) to cecina (dried cured veal meat). The house speciality is ous estrellats (literally ‘smashed eggs’) – a mix of scrambled egg white, egg yolk, potato and ingredients ranging from foie gras to morcilla (black pudding).
El Velódromo TAPAS, MEDITERRANEAN€€
(%93 430 60 22; www.moritz.com; Carrer de Muntaner 213; tapas €2.50-10.50, mains €9.50-24; hkitchen 1pm-1am, bar 24hr; W; mHospital Clínic)
The restoration of this history-steeped literary tavern by Barcelona brewer Moritz brought back a wonderfully atmospheric establishment. Stop in for an aperitif and tapas or more substantial dishes such as salmon with caramelised cabbage or veal meatballs with fresh tomato and mozzarella. The spectacular high-ceilinged space retains many of its original art deco fittings.
Casa Alfonso SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 97 83; www.casaalfonso.com; Carrer de Roger de Llúria 6; tapas & sandwiches €4-15, mains €13-23; h8am-1am Mon-Fri, 1pm-1am Sat; W; mUrquinaona)
In business since 1934, Casa Alfonso is perfect for a morning coffee or a tapas stop at the long marble bar. Wood-panelled and festooned with old photos, posters and swinging hams, it attracts a faithful local clientele at all hours for its flautas (thin baguettes with a choice of fillings), hams, cheeses, hot dishes and homemade desserts.
There are also more substantial dishes, mostly involving grilled meat. Consider rounding off with an alfonsito (miniature Irish coffee).
Casa Amalia CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 458 94 58; www.casamaliabcn.com; Passatge del Mercat 4-6; mains €9-20; h1-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun; mGirona)
This very local split-level restaurant is popular for its hearty Catalan cooking that uses fresh produce from the busy market next door. On Thursdays during winter it offers the mountain classic, escudella (Catalan stew). Otherwise, try light variations on local cuisine like the bacallà al allioli de poma (cod in apple-based aioli sauce). The three-course menú del día is a bargain at €15.50.
De Tapa Madre CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 459 31 34; www.detapamadre.com; Carrer de Mallorca 301; tapas €4-7.50, mains €14-25.50; h11.30am-midnight; mVerdaguer)
A lively atmosphere greets you from the moment you swing open the door. A few tiny tables line the window (there’s also terrace seating out front), but head upstairs for more space in the gallery, which hovers above the array of tapas on the bar below. The arròs amb llamàntol (a hearty rice dish with lobster) is delicious.
oLasarte MODERN EUROPEAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 445 32 42; www.restaurantlasarte.com; Carrer de Mallorca 259; mains €52-58; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, closed 1st 3 weeks Aug; mDiagonal)
One of the preeminent restaurants in Barcelona – and the city’s first to gain three Michelin stars – Lasarte is overseen by lauded chef Martín Berasategui. From Duroc pig’s trotters with quince to squid tartare with kaffir consommé, this is seriously sophisticated stuff, served in an ultra-contemporary dining room by waiting staff who could put the most overawed diners at ease.
oDisfrutar MODERN EUROPEAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 348 68 96; www.en.disfrutarbarcelona.com; Carrer de Villarroel 163; tasting menus €120-185; h1-2.45pm & 8-9.45pm Tue-Sat; mHospital Clínic)
Disfrutar (‘Enjoy’ in Catalan) is among the city’s finest restaurants, with two Michelin stars. Run by alumni of Ferran Adrià’s game-changing (now closed) El Bulli restaurant, nothing is as it seems, such as black and green olives that are actually chocolate ganache with orange-blossom water.
oMont Bar BISTRO€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 323 95 90; www.montbar.com; Carrer de la Diputació 220; tapas €2-13, mains €12.50-26.50; hnoon-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight; mUniversitat)
Named for the owner’s Val d’Aran hometown, Mont Bar is a stylish wine-bar-style space with black-and-white floors, forest-green banquette and bottle-lined walls offers next-level cooking. Exquisite tapas (pig’s trotters with baby shrimp; plankton meringue with sea anemone and Mascarpone) precede ‘small plate’ mains (tuna belly with pine-nut emulsion) and showstopping desserts (sheep’s milk ice cream with blackcurrant liqueur sauce). Reservations essential.
Casa Calvet CATALAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 412 40 12; www.casacalvet.es; Carrer de Casp 48; mains €27-35; h1-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Sat; mUrquinaona)
An early Gaudí masterpiece loaded with his trademark curvy features houses a swish restaurant (just to the right of the building’s main entrance). Dress up and ask for an intimate taula cabina (wooden booth). You could opt for scallop- and prawn-stuffed artichokes, partridge and chestnut casserole or veal with duck-liver sauce.