icon-top-choiceoPalau de la Música Catalana ARCHITECTURE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 295 72 00; www.palaumusica.cat; Carrer de Palau de la Música 4-6; adult/concession/child under 10yr €18/15/free; icon-hoursgifhguided tours 10am-3.30pm, to 6pm Easter, Jul & Aug; icon-metrogifmUrquinaona)

This concert hall is a high point of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture, a symphony in tile, brick, sculpted stone and stained glass. Built by Domènech i Montaner between 1905 and 1908 for the Orfeo Català musical society, it was conceived as a temple for the Catalan Renaixença (Renaissance).

icon-top-choiceoBasílica de Santa Maria del Mar CHURCH

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 310 23 90; www.santamariadelmarbarcelona.org; Plaça de Santa Maria del Mar; €8 1-5pm, incl guided tour; icon-hoursgifh9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; icon-metrogifmJaume I)

Carrer de Montcada STREET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-metrogifmJaume I)

An early example of town planning, this medieval high street was driven towards the sea from the road that in the 12th century led northeast from the city walls. It was the city’s most coveted address for the merchant classes. The great mansions that remain today mostly date from the 14th and 15th centuries.

Museu de Cultures del Món MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 256 23 00; http://museuculturesmon.bcn.cat; Carrer de Montcada 12; adult/concession/under 16yr €5/3.50/free, temporary exhibition €2.20/1.50/free, 3-8pm Sun & 1st Sun of month free; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun; icon-metrogifmJaume I)

The Palau Nadal and the Palau Marquès de Llió, which once housed the Museu Barbier-Mueller and the Museu Tèxtil respectively, reopened in 2015 to the public as the site of the new Museum of World Cultures. Exhibits from private and public collections, including many from the Museu Etnològic on Montjuïc, take the visitor on a trip through the ancient cultures of Africa, Asia, the Americas and Oceania. There’s a combined ticket with the Museu Egipci and Museu Etnològic for €12.

Mercat de Santa Caterina MARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 319 57 40; www.mercatsantacaterina.com; Avinguda de Francesc Cambó 16; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-3.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, to 8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, closed afternoons Jul & Aug; icon-metrogifmJaume I)

Come shopping for your tomatoes at this extraordinary-looking produce market, designed by Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue to replace its 19th-century predecessor. Finished in 2005, it is distinguished by its kaleidoscopic and undulating roof, held up above the bustling produce stands, restaurants, cafes and bars by twisting slender branches of what look like grey steel trees.

Fundació Foto Colectania GALLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 217 16 26; www.colectania.es; Passeig de Picasso 14; adult/concession/child under 14yr €4/3/free, free 1st Sun of month; icon-hoursgifh11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun; icon-metrogifmArc de Triomf, Jaume I)

Photography lovers should swing by here to see the latest exhibition from this nonprofit foundation, which showcases thought-provoking works from across the globe. In 2016 the foundation moved from its base in Gràcia to this 500-sq-metre space in El Born. The exhibits may come from the foundation’s extensive 3000-piece collection of Spanish and Portuguese photographers from the 1950s onwards, but more likely will be temporary exhibitions.

Parc de la Ciutadella PARK

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Passeig de Picasso; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm May-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Apr; icon-familygifc; icon-metrogifmArc de Triomf)

Come for a stroll, a picnic, a boat ride on the lake or to inspect Catalonia’s parliament, but don’t miss a visit to this, the most central green lung in the city. Parc de la Ciutadella is perfect for winding down.

Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria HISTORIC BUILDING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 256 68 51; http://elbornculturaimemoria.barcelona.cat; Plaça Comercial 12; centre free, exhibition spaces adult/concession/child under 16yr €4.40/3/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun Nov-Feb; icon-metrogifmJaume I)

Launched in 2013, as part of the events held for the tercentenary of the Catalan defeat in the War of the Spanish Succession, this cultural space is housed in the former Mercat del Born, a handsome 19th-century structure of slatted iron and brick. Excavation in 2001 unearthed remains of whole streets flattened to make way for the much-hated ciutadella (citadel) – these are now on show on the exposed subterranean level.

Museu de la Xocolata MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 268 78 78; www.museuxocolata.cat; Carrer del Comerç 36; adult/concession/child under 7yr €6/5/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; icon-familygifc; icon-metrogifmArc de Triomf)

Chocoholics have a hard time containing themselves in this museum dedicated to the fundamental foodstuff – particularly when faced with tempting displays of cocoa-based treats in the cafe at the exit. The displays trace the origins of chocolate, its arrival in Europe, and the many myths and images associated with it. Among the informative stuff and machinery used in the production of chocolate are large chocolate models of emblematic buildings such as La Sagrada Família, along with various characters, local and international.

Zoo de Barcelona ZOO

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%902 457545; www.zoobarcelona.cat; Parc de la Ciutadella; adult/concession/child under 3yr €20/12/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5.30pm Nov-Mar, 10am-7pm Apr, May, Sep & Oct, 10am-8pm Jun-Aug; icon-familygifc; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta)

The zoo is a great day out for kids, with 7500 critters that range from geckos to gorillas, lions and elephants – there are more than 400 species, plus picnic areas dotted all around and a wonderful adventure playground. There are pony rides, a petting zoo and a minitrain meandering through the grounds. Thanks to recent advances in legislation prohibiting the use of animals for performances (including circuses and bullfighting) the zoo called time on its dolphin shows in late 2015.

ART ON THE STREETS

Barcelona hosts an array of street sculpture, from Miró’s 1983 Dona i Ocell (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Carrer de Tarragona; icon-metrogifmTarragona) (Woman and Bird), in the park dedicated to the artist, to Peix (Carrer de Ramon Trias Fargas 2; icon-metrogifmCiutadella Villa Olímpica) (Fish), Frank Gehry’s shimmering, bronze-coloured headless fish facing Port Olímpic. Halfway along La Rambla, at Plaça de la Boqueria, you can walk all over Miró’s mosaic (Plaça de la Boqueria; icon-metrogifmLiceu).

Picasso left an open-air mark with his design on the facade of the Col·legi d’Arquitectes de Catalunya opposite La Catedral in the Barri Gòtic. Other works include the Barcelona Head (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Passeig de Colom; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta) by Roy Lichtenstein at the Port Vell end of Via Laietana and Fernando Botero’s rotund El Gat on Rambla del Raval.

Wander down to the Barceloneta seaside for a gander at Rebecca Horn’s 1992 tribute to the old shacks that used to line the waterfront. The precarious stack is called Homenatge a la Barceloneta (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Passeig Marítim; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta) (Tribute to La Barceloneta). A little further south is the 2003 Homenatge a la Natació (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Homage to the Swimmers; Plaça del Mar; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta), a complex metallic rendition of swimmers and divers in the water by Alfredo Lanz.

Heading a little further back in time, in 1983 Antoni Tàpies constructed Homenatge a Picasso (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Passeig de Picasso; icon-metrogifmArc de Triomf, Jaume I) (Tribute to Picasso) on Passeig de Picasso; it’s essentially a glass cube set in a pond and filled with, well, junk. Antoni Llena’s David i Goliat (David and Goliath), a massive sculpture of tubular and sheet iron, in the Parc de les Cascades near Port Olímpic’s two skyscrapers, looks like an untidy kite inspired by Halloween. Beyond this Avinguda d’Icària is lined by architect Enric Miralles’ so-called Pergoles – bizarre, twisted metal contraptions.

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1Barceloneta & the Waterfront

On the approach to Port Olímpic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Moll de Mestral; icon-metrogifmCiutadella Vila Olímpica) from Barceloneta, the giant copper-like Peix (Fish) sculpture by Frank Gehry glitters in the sunlight. Port Olímpic was built for the 1992 Olympic sailing events and is now a somewhat touristy marina surrounded by bars and restaurants. From the marina, a string of popular beaches stretches along the coast northeast to the modern somewhat soulless El Fòrum (icon-metrogifmEl Maresme Fòrum) district, which has lots of space for summer concerts and funfairs. Strollers, cyclists and skaters parade on the broad beachside boulevard (dotted with seafood restaurants), while sunbathers soak up the rays on warm summer days.

icon-top-choiceoMuseu Marítim MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 342 99 20; www.mmb.cat; Avinguda de les Drassanes; adult/child €10/5, free from 3pm Sun; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm; icon-metrogifmDrassanes)

The city’s maritime museum occupies Gothic shipyards – a remarkable relic from Barcelona’s days as the seat of a seafaring empire. Highlights include a full-scale 1970s replica of Don Juan of Austria’s 16th-century flagship, fishing vessels, antique navigation charts and dioramas of the Barcelona waterfront.

Museu Can Framis MUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%93 320 87 36; www.fundaciovilacasas.com; Carrer de Roc Boronat 116-126; adult/child €5/2; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun; icon-metrogifmGlòries, Llacuna)

Set in an 18th-century former textile factory, this contemporary museum is a showcase for Catalan painting from the 1960s onwards. The galleries display some 300 works, arranged in thought-provoking ways – with evocative paintings by different artists (sometimes working in different time periods) creating fascinating intersections and collisions.

L’Aquàrium AQUARIUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%93 221 74 74; www.aquariumbcn.com; Moll d’Espanya; adult/child €20/15, dive €300, Sleeping with Sharks €90; icon-hoursgifh10am-9.30pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun; icon-metrogifmDrassanes)

It’s hard not to shudder at the sight of a shark gliding above you, displaying its toothy, wide-mouthed grin. But this, the 80m shark tunnel, is the highlight of one of Europe’s largest aquariums. It has the world’s best Mediterranean collection and plenty of colourful fish from as far off as the Red Sea, the Caribbean and the Great Barrier Reef. All up, some 11,000 creatures (including a dozen sharks) of 450 species reside here. Tickets are €2 cheaper online.

Museu d’Història de Catalunya MUSEUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museum of the History of Catalonia; icon-phonegif%93 225 47 00; www.mhcat.cat; Plaça de Pau Vila 3; adult/child €4.50/3.50, last Tue of the month Oct-Jun free; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Tue & Thu-Sat, to 8pm Wed, to 2.30pm Sun; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta)

Inside the Palau de Mar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaça de Pau Vila; icon-metrogifmBarceloneta), this worthwhile museum takes you from the Stone Age through to the early 1980s. It’s a busy hotchpotch of dioramas, artefacts, videos, models, documents and interactive bits: all up, an entertaining exploration of 2000 years of Catalan history. Signage is in Catalan and Spanish.

Museu del Disseny de Barcelona MUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%93 256 68 00; www.museudeldisseny.cat; Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes 37; permanent/temporary exhibition adult €6/4.50, child €4/3, combination ticket adult/child €8/5.50, free from 3pm Sun & 1st Sun of the month; icon-hoursgifh10am-8pm Tue-Sun; icon-metrogifmGlòries)

Barcelona’s design museum lies inside a monolithic contemporary building with geometric facades and a rather brutalist appearance that’s nicknamed la grapadora (the stapler) by locals. Inside, it houses a dazzling collection of ceramics, decorative arts and textiles, and is a must for anyone interested in the design world.

Museu Blau MUSEUM

(Blue Museum; icon-phonegif%93 256 60 02; www.museuciencies.cat; Edifici Fòrum, Parc del Fòrum; adult/child €6/free, free from 3pm Sun & 1st Sun of month; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun Mar-Sep, to 6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat, to 8pm Sun Oct-Feb; icon-metrogifmEl Maresme Fòrum)

Set inside the futuristic Edifici Fòrum, the Museu Blau takes visitors on a journey across the natural world. Multimedia and interactive exhibits explore topics like the history of evolution, the earth’s formation and the great scientists who have helped shaped human knowledge. There are also specimens from the animal, plant and mineral kingdoms – plus dinosaur skeletons – all rather dramatically set amid the sprawling 9000 sq metres of exhibition space.

Cementiri del Poblenou CEMETERY

(Poblenou Cemetery; icon-phonegif%93 225 16 61; www.cbsa.cat; Av d’Icària; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm; icon-metrogifmLlacuna) icon-freeF

Located just inland from Platja de Bogatell near Carrer del Taulat, this cemetery dates from 1773. The cemetery was positioned outside the then city limits for health reasons; its central monument commemorates the victims of a yellow-fever epidemic that swept across Barcelona in 1821. It is full of bombastic family memorials, but an altogether disquieting touch is the sculpture El petó de la mort (The Kiss of Death), in which a winged skeleton kisses a young kneeling lifeless body.

Museu de la Música MUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%93 256 36 50; www.museumusica.bcn.cat; Carrer de Lepant 150; adult/child €6/4.50, free from 3pm Sun; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, to 9pm Thu, to 7pm Sat & Sun; icon-metrogifmMonumental)

Some 500 instruments (less than a third of those held) are on show in this museum, housed on the 2nd floor of the administration building in L’Auditori (icon-phonegif%93 247 93 00; www.auditori.cat; Carrer de Lepant 150; tickets free-€59; icon-hoursgifhbox office 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 5-9pm Sat; icon-metrogifmMarina), the city’s main classical-music concert hall.

DISCOUNTS

Possession of a Bus Turístic ticket entitles you to discounts at some museums.

Articket (www.articketbcn.org) gives admission to six sites for €30 and is valid for six months. You can pick up the ticket at the tourist offices at Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça de Sant Jaume and Estació Sants train station and at the museums themselves. The six sights are the Museu Picasso, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona and the Fundació Joan Miró.

Arqueoticket is for those with an interest in archaeology and ancient history. The ticket (€14.50) is available from participating museums and tourist offices and grants free admission to the following: Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya, Museu Egipci, Museu d’Història de Barcelona, Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria.

1La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample

L’Eixample’s biggest sightseeing draws are its Modernista buildings, particularly the four that line the Passeig de Gràcia – La Pedrera, Casa Amatller, Casa Batlló and Casa Lleó Morera. Up in the north of the neighbourhood (best reached by the metro or cab) is where you’ll find La Sagrada Família and the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau.