3Entertainment

3La Rambla & Barri Gòtic

Gran Teatre del Liceu THEATRE, LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 485 99 00; www.liceubarcelona.cat; La Rambla 51-59; hbox office 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun; mLiceu)

Barcelona’s grand old opera house, restored after a fire in 1994, is one of the most technologically advanced theatres in the world. To take a seat in the grand auditorium, returned to all its 19th-century glory but with the very latest in acoustics, is to be transported to another age.

Tickets can cost anything from €10 for a cheap seat behind a pillar to €200 for a well-positioned night at the opera.

El Paraigua LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 11 31; www.elparaigua.com; Carrer del Pas de l’Ensenyança 2; hnoon-2am Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mLiceu) F

A tiny chocolate box of dark tinted Modernisme, the ‘Umbrella’ has been serving up drinks since the 1960s. The turn-of-the-20th-century decor was transferred here from a shop knocked down elsewhere in the district and cobbled back together to create this cosy locale.

Sidecar Factory Club LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 15 86; www.sidecarfactoryclub.com; Plaça Reial 7; h7pm-5am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mLiceu)

Descend into the red-tinged, brick-vaulted bowels for live music most nights. Just about anything goes here, from UK indie through to country punk, but rock and pop lead the way. Most shows start around 10pm and DJs take over at 12.30am. Upstairs at ground level you can get food (until midnight) or a few drinks (until 3am).

Jamboree LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 17 89; www.masimas.com/jamboree; Plaça Reial 17; tickets €5-20; h8pm-6am; mLiceu)

For over half a century, Jamboree has been bringing joy to the jivers of Barcelona, with high-calibre acts featuring jazz trios, blues, Afrobeats, Latin and big-band sounds. Two concerts are held most nights (at 8pm and 10pm), after which Jamboree morphs into a DJ-spinning club at midnight. WTF jam sessions are held Mondays (entrance a mere €5).

Harlem Jazz Club JAZZ

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 07 55; www.harlemjazzclub.es; Carrer de la Comtessa de Sobradiel 8; tickets €7-10; h8pm-3am Sun & Tue-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mLiceu)

This narrow, old-city dive is one of the best spots in town for jazz, as well as funk, Latin, blues and gypsy jazz. It attracts a mixed crowd that maintains a respectful silence during the acts. Most concerts start around 10pm. Get in early if you want a seat in front of the stage.

Sala Tarantos FLAMENCO

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 304 12 10; www.masimas.com/tarantos; Plaça Reial 17; tickets €15; hshows 7.30pm, 8.30pm & 9.30pm Oct-Jun, plus 10.30pm Jul-Sep; mLiceu)

Since 1963, this basement locale has been the stage for up-and-coming flamenco groups performing in Barcelona. These days Tarantos has become a mostly tourist-centric affair, with half-hour shows held three times a night. Still, it’s a good introduction to flamenco, and not a bad setting for a drink.

3El Raval

oFilmoteca de Catalunya CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 567 10 70; www.filmoteca.cat; Plaça de Salvador Seguí 1-9; adult/concession €4/3; hscreenings 5-10pm, ticket office 10am-3pm & 4-9.30pm Tue-Sun; mLiceu)

The Filmoteca de Catalunya – Catalonia’s national cinema – sits in a modern 6000-sq-metre building in the midst of the most louche part of El Raval. The films shown are a superior mix of classics and more recent releases, with frequent themed cycles. A 10-session pass is an amazingly cheap €20.

Jazz Sí Club LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 329 00 20; www.tallerdemusics.com/en/jazzsi-club; Carrer de Requesens 2; entry incl drink €6-10; h8.30-11pm Tue-Sat, 6.30-10pm Sun; mSant Antoni)

A cramped little bar run by the Taller de Músics (Musicians’ Workshop) serves as the stage for a varied program of jazz jams through to some good flamenco (Friday and Saturday nights). Thursday night is Cuban night, Tuesday and Sunday are rock, and the rest are devoted to jazz and/or blues sessions. Concerts start around 9pm but the jam sessions can get going earlier.

3La Ribera

oPalau de la Música Catalana CLASSICAL MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 295 72 00; www.palaumusica.cat; Carrer de Palau de la Música 4-6; tickets from €18; hbox office 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; mUrquinaona)

A feast for the eyes, this Modernista confection is also the city’s most traditional venue for classical and choral music, although it has a wide-ranging program, including flamenco, pop and – particularly – jazz. Just being here for a performance is an experience. In the foyer, its tiled pillars all a-glitter, you can sip a pre-concert tipple.

Tablao Nervión DANCE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 315 21 03; www.restaurantenervion.com; Carrer de la Princesa 2; show incl 1 drink €18, show & set dinner €30; hshows 8-10pm Wed-Sun; mJaume I)

For admittedly tourist-oriented flamenco, this unassuming bar (shows take place in the basement) is cheaper than most, and has good offerings. Check the website for further details.

3Barceloneta & the Waterfront

Sala Monasterio LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %616 287197; www.facebook.com/sala.monasterio; Moll de Mestral 30; tickets vary; h10pm-5am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; mCiutadella Vila Olímpica)

Overlooking the bobbing masts and slender palm trees of Port Olímpic, this pocket-sized music spot stages an eclectic line-up of live bands, including jazz, forró (music from northeastern Brazil), blues jams and rock.

Razzmatazz LIVE MUSIC

(%93 320 82 00; www.salarazzmatazz.com; Carrer de Pamplona 88; tickets from €17; h9pm-4am; mBogatell)

Bands from far and wide occasionally create scenes of near hysteria in this, one of the city’s classic live-music and clubbing venues. Bands can appear throughout the week (check the website), with different start times. On weekends live music later gives way to club sounds.

Yelmo Cines Icària CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 220922; www.yelmocines.es; Carrer de Salvador Espriu 61; tickets adult/child €9.90/7.30; mCiutadella Vila Olímpica)

This vast cinema complex shows films in the original language on 15 screens, making for plenty of choice. Aside from the screens, you’ll find several cheerful places to eat, bars and the like to keep you occupied before and after the movies.

3La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample

City Hall LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 238 07 22; www.cityhallbarcelona.com; Rambla de Catalunya 2-4; mCatalunya)

Also home to a nightclub, this former theatre is also the perfect size and shape for live music, holding a crowd of around 500. The acoustics are great and the layout means everyone gets a good view of the stage.

Méliès Cinemes CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 451 00 51; www.meliescinemes.com; Carrer de Villarroel 102; tickets €4-7; mUrgell)

A cosy cinema with two screens, the Méliès specialises in the best of recent releases from Hollywood and Europe.

3Gràcia & Park Güell

Cine Texas CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 348 77 48; www.cinemestexas.cat; Carrer de Bailèn 205; mJoanic)

All films at this contemporary four-screen cinema are shown in their original languages (with subtitles in Catalan). Genres span art house through to Hollywood blockbusters. Catalan-language films are subtitled in English.

Verdi Park CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 238 79 90; www.cines-verdi.com; Carrer de Torrijos 49; mFontana)

Verdi Park is a perennially popular art-house cinema with four screens. Most films are shown in their original language.

Verdi CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 238 79 90; www.cines-verdi.com; Carrer de Verdi 32; mFontana)

In the heart of Gràcia, this five-screen cinema shows art-house and blockbuster films in their original language as well as films in Catalan and Spanish. It’s handy to lots of local eateries and bars for pre- and post-film enjoyment.

3Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta

Camp Nou FOOTBALL

(%902 189900; www.fcbarcelona.com; Carrer d’Arístides Maillol; mPalau Reial)

The massive stadium of Camp Nou (‘New Field’ in Catalan) is home to the legendary Futbol Club Barcelona. Attending a game amid the roar of the crowds is an unforgettable experience; the season runs from September to May. Alternatively, get a taste of all the excitement at the interactive Camp Nou Experience, which includes a tour of the stadium.

Luz de Gas LIVE MUSIC

(%93 209 77 11; www.luzdegas.com; Carrer de Muntaner 246; hmidnight-6am Thu-Sat; g6, 7, 27, 32, 33, 34, H8, jT1, T2, T3 Francesc Macià)

Several nights a week this club, set in a grand former theatre, stages concerts ranging through rock, soul, salsa, jazz and pop. Concerts typically kick off around 1am; from about 2am, the place turns into a club that attracts a well-dressed crowd with varying musical tastes, depending on the night. Check the website for the latest schedule.

SEEING AN FC BARÇA MATCH

Tickets to FC Barcelona matches are available at Camp Nou, online (through FC Barcelona’s official website), and through various city locations. Tourist offices sell them – the main office at Plaça de Catalunya is a centrally located option – as do FC Botiga stores. Tickets can cost anything from €39 to upwards of €250, depending on the seat and match. On match day the ticket windows (at gates 9 (Gate 9, Avinguda de Joan XXIII; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2.15pm Sun, 9.15am–kick-off match days; mPalau Reial) and 15) open from 9.15am until kick off. Tickets for matches with Real Madrid sell out years in advance.

If you attend a game, go early so you’ll have ample time to find your seat (this stadium is massive) and soak up the atmosphere.

You will almost definitely find scalpers lurking near the ticket windows. They are often club members and can sometimes get you in at a significant reduction. Don’t pay until you are safely seated.

3Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni

BARTS CONCERT VENUE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Barcelona Arts on Stage; %93 324 84 92; www.barts.cat; Avinguda del Paral·lel 62; mParal·lel)

BARTS has a solid reputation for its innovative line-up of urban dance troupes, electro swing, psychedelic pop and other eclectic fare. Its smart design combines a comfortable midsized auditorium with excellent acoustics. Hours and ticket prices vary; check the agenda online.

Gran Bodega Saltó LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 441 37 09; www.bodegasalto.net; Carrer de Blesa 36; h7pm-2am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Fri & Sat, noon-midnight Sun; mParal·lel)

The ranks of barrels give away the bar’s history as a traditional bodega. Now, after a little homemade psychedelic redecoration with odd lamps, figurines and old Chinese beer ads, it’s a magnet for an eclectic barfly crowd. The crowd is mixed and friendly, and gets pretty animated on nights when there’s live music.

Sala Apolo LIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 441 40 01; www.sala-apolo.com; Carrer Nou de la Rambla 113; club from €15, concerts vary; hconcerts from 8pm, club from midnight; mParal·lel)

This is a fine old theatre, where red velvet dominates and you feel as though you’re in a movie-set dancehall scene. ‘Nasty Mondays’ and ‘Crappy Tuesdays’ are aimed at a diehard, never-stop-dancing crowd. Club entry includes a drink. Earlier in the evening, concerts generally take place here and in ‘La 2’, a smaller auditorium downstairs.

Tastes are as eclectic as possible, from local bands and burlesque shows to big-name international acts.

Teatre Mercat De Les Flors DANCE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 256 26 00; www.mercatflors.cat; Carrer de Lleida 59; hbox office 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, plus 1hr before show; g55)

Next door to the Teatre Lliure (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 289 27 70; www.teatrelliure.com; Plaça de Margarida Xirgu 1; hbox office 9am-8pm, plus 2hr before performance; g55), and together with it known as the Ciutat de Teatre (Theatre City), this spacious modern stage is Barcelona’s top venue for local and international contemporary dance acts.

Renoir Floridablanca CINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %91 542 27 02; www.cinesrenoir.com; Carrer de Floridablanca 135; mSant Antoni)

With seven screens, this cinema shows a mix of quality art-house flicks and blockbusters in their original language (with Spanish subtitles). It’s handily located just beyond El Raval, so you’ll find no shortage of post-film entertainment options nearby.

7Shopping

7La Rambla & Barri Gòtic

Torrons Vicens FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 304 37 36; www.vicens.com; Carrer del Petritxol 15; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mLiceu)

You can find the turrón (nougat) treat year-round at Torrons Vicens, which has been selling its signature sweets since 1775.

Sabater Hermanos COSMETICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 98 32; www.sabaterhermanos.es; Plaça de Sant Felip Neri 1; h10.30am-9pm; mJaume I)

This fragrant little shop sells handcrafted soaps of all sizes. Varieties such as fig, cinnamon, grapefruit and chocolate smell good enough to eat, while sandalwood, magnolia, mint, cedar and jasmine add spice to any sink or bathtub.

Formatgeria La Seu FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 412 65 48; www.formatgerialaseu.com; Carrer de la Dagueria 16; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul; mJaume I)

Dedicated to artisan cheeses from all across Spain, this small shop is run by the oh-so-knowledgeable Katherine McLaughlin and is the antithesis of mass production – it sells only the best from small-scale farmers and the stock changes regularly. Wine and cheese tastings in the cosy room at the back are fun.

Escribà FOOD & DRINKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 60 27; www.escriba.es; La Rambla 83; h9am-9.30pm; W; mLiceu)

Chocolates, dainty pastries and mouth-watering cakes can be nibbled behind the Modernista mosaic facade here or taken away for private, guilt-ridden consumption. This Barcelona favourite is owned by the Escribà family, a name synonymous with sinfully good sweet things. More than that, it adds a touch of authenticity to La Rambla.

El Corte Inglés DEPARTMENT STORE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 306 38 00; www.elcorteingles.es; Av del Portal de l’Àngel 19-21; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat Oct-May, 9.30am-10.15pm Jun-Sep; mCatalunya)

A secondary branch of Spain’s only remaining department store, selling electronics, fashion, stationery and sports gear.

L’Arca VINTAGE, CLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 15 98; www.larca.es; Carrer dels Banys Nous 20; h11am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mLiceu)

Step inside this enchanting shop for a glimpse of beautifully crafted apparel from the past, including 18th-century embroidered silk vests, elaborate silk kimonos, and wedding dresses and shawls from the 1920s. Thanks to its incredible collection, it has provided clothing for films including Titanic, Talk to Her and Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.

Herboristeria del Rei COSMETICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 318 05 12; www.herboristeriadelrei.com; Carrer del Vidre 1; h2.30-8.30pm Tue-Thu, 10.30am-8.30pm Fri & Sat; mLiceu)

Once patronised by Queen Isabel II, this timeless corner store flogs all sorts of weird and wonderful herbs, spices and medicinal plants. It’s been doing so since 1823 and the decor has barely changed since the 1860s – some of the products have, however, and nowadays you’ll find anything from fragrant soaps to massage oil.

Film director Tom Tykwer shot some scenes from Perfume: The Story of a Murderer here.

Cereria Subirà HOMEWARES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 315 26 06; http://cereriasubira.net; Calle de la Llibreteria 7; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-8pm Fri, 10am-8pm Sat; mJaume I)

Even if you’re not interested in myriad mounds of colourful wax, pop in just so you’ve been to the oldest shop in Barcelona. Cereria Subirà has been churning out candles since 1761 and at this address since the 19th century; the interior has a beautifully baroque quality, with a picturesque Gone With the Wind–style staircase.

La Colmena FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 315 13 56; www.pastisserialacolmena.com; Plaça de l’Angel 12; h9am-9pm; mJaume I)

A pastry shop selling many delicacies including pine-nut-encrusted panellets (sweet almond cakes), flavoured meringues and feather-light ensaïmadas (soft, sweet buns topped with powdered sugar) from Mallorca.

La Manual Alpargatera SHOES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 01 72; www.lamanualalpargatera.es; Carrer d’Avinyó 7; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat; mLiceu)

Clients from Salvador Dalí to Jean Paul Gaultier have ordered a pair of espadrilles (rope-soled canvas shoes) from this famous store. The shop was founded just after the Spanish Civil War, though the roots of the simple shoe design date back hundreds of years and originated in the Catalan Pyrenees.

Petritxol Xocoa FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 82 91; www.xocoa-bcn.com; Carrer del Petritxol 11-13; h9.30am-9pm; mLiceu)

Tucked along ‘chocolate street’ Carrer del Petritxol, this den of dental devilry displays ranks and ranks of original bars in stunning designs, chocolates stuffed with sweet stuff, gooey pastries and more. It has various other branches scattered about town.

7El Raval

oLes Topettes COSMETICS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 500 55 64; www.lestopettes.com; Carrer de Joaquín Costa 33; h11am-2pm & 4-9pm Tue-Sat, 4-9pm Mon; mUniversitat)

It’s a sign of the times that such a chic little temple to soap and perfume can exist in El Raval. The items in Les Topettes’ collection have been picked for their designs as much as for the products themselves, and you’ll find gorgeously packaged scents, candles and unguents from Diptyque, Cowshed and L’Artisan Parfumeur, among others.

Fantastik ARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 30 68; www.fantastik.es; Carrer de Joaquín Costa 62; h11am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm & 4-9pm Sat; mUniversitat)

Over 400 products, including a Mexican skull rattle, robot moon explorer from China and recycled plastic zebras from South Africa, are to be found in this colourful shop, which sources its items from Mexico, India, Bulgaria, Russia, Senegal and 20 other countries. It’s a perfect place to buy all the things you don’t need but can’t live without.

Holala! Plaza FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.holala-ibiza.com; Plaça de Castella 2; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; mUniversitat)

Backing on to Carrer de Valldonzella, where it boasts an exhibition space (Gallery) for temporary art displays, this Ibiza import is inspired by that island’s long-established (and somewhat commercialised) hippie tradition. Vintage clothes are the name of the game, along with an eclectic program of exhibitions and activities.

7La Ribera

El Rei de la Màgia MAGIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 39 20; www.elreydelamagia.com; Carrer de la Princesa 11; h10.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I)

For more than 100 years, the owners have been keeping locals both astounded and amused. Should you decide to stay in Barcelona and make a living as a magician, this is the place to buy levitation brooms, glasses of disappearing milk and decks of magic cards.

Vila Viniteca WINE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 777 70 17; www.vilaviniteca.es; Carrer dels Agullers 7; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I)

One of the best wine stores in Barcelona (and there are a few…), Vila Viniteca has been searching out the best local and imported wines since 1932. On a couple of November evenings it organises what has become an almost riotous wine-tasting event in Carrer dels Agullers and surrounding lanes, at which cellars from around Spain present their young new wines.

Casa Gispert FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 75 35; www.casagispert.com; Carrer dels Sombrerers 23; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I)

The wonderful, atmospheric and wood-fronted Casa Gispert has been toasting nuts and selling all manner of dried fruit since 1851. Pots and jars piled high on the shelves contain an unending variety of crunchy titbits: some roasted, some honeyed, all of them moreish. Your order is shouted over to the till, along with the price, in a display of old-world accounting.

El Magnífico COFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 319 60 81; www.cafeselmagnifico.com; Carrer de l’Argenteria 64; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I)

All sorts of coffee has been roasted here since the early 20th century. The variety of coffee (and tea) available is remarkable – and the aromas hit you as you walk in. Across the road, the same people run the exquisite tea shop Sans i Sans (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 25 18; www.sansisans.com; Carrer de l’Argenteria 59; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mJaume I).

Coquette FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 310 35 35; www.coquettebcn.com; Carrer de Bonaire 5; h11am-3pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9pm Sat; mBarceloneta)

Elegant women’s store with designers from around the globe, but particularly Spain.

Loisaida CLOTHING, ANTIQUES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 295 54 92; www.loisaidabcn.com; Carrer dels Flassaders 42; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sun; mJaume I)

A sight in its own right, housed in the former coach house and stables for the Royal Mint, Loisaida (from the Spanglish for ‘Lower East Side’) is a deceptively large emporium of colourful, retro and somewhat preppy clothing for men and women, costume jewellery, music from the 1940s and ’50s and some covetable antiques. One space is devoted entirely to denim.

Arlequí Màscares ARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 27 52; www.arlequimask.com; Carrer de la Princesa 7; h11.30am-8pm Mon, 10.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 11.30am-7pm Sun; mJaume I)

A wonderful little oasis of originality, this shop specialises in masks for costume and decoration. Some of the pieces are superb, while stock also includes a beautiful range of decorative boxes in Catalan themes, and some old-style marionettes.

Hofmann Pastisseria FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 268 82 21; www.hofmann-bcn.com; Carrer dels Flassaders 44; h9am-2pm & 3.30-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Sun; mBarceloneta)

With its painted wooden cabinets, this bite-sized gourmet patisserie, linked to the prestigious Hofmann cooking school, has an air of timelessness. Choose between jars of delicious chocolates, the renowned croissants (in various flavours) and more dangerous pastries, or an array of cakes and other sweet treats.

7Barceloneta & the Waterfront

Vernita CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

(%625 092341; www.facebook/vernitastudioshop; Carrer del Joncar 27; h10am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sat; mPoblenou)

Three mothers, Neli, Laura and Nacha, design and hand-stitch children’s clothing and accessories such as animal-print cushions, bags, kids’ jewellery, bow ties, towels (including adorable dinosaur designs) and washable nappies as well as soft cuddly toys at this light, bright studio-boutique. During the evenings, they also offer sewing lessons and origami workshops for kids (English available).

Ultra-Local Records MUSIC

(%661 017638; www.ultralocalrecords.com; Carrer de Pujades 113; h4-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat; mLlacuna)

Along a fairly empty stretch of El Poblenou, this small, well-curated shop sells mostly used records (plus some re-releases and albums by current indie rock darlings) from Catalan, Spanish, French, American and British artists. Vinyl aside, you’ll find a smaller CD selection, plus zines and a few other curiosities. There’s a €1 bargain bin in front of the store.

Bestiari BOOKS, HANDICRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.bestiari.net; Plaça de Pau Vila 3; h10am-7pm Tue & Thu-Sat, to 8pm Wed, to 2.30pm Sun; mBarceloneta)

On the ground floor of the Museu d’Història de Catalunya, this well-stocked shop sells books in English, Catalan and Spanish for all ages, along with Catalan-themed gift ideas: CDs, T-shirts, umbrellas, messenger bags, chess sets, mugs and toys (along the lines of the build-your-own Gothic or Gaudí structures).

Els Encants Vells MARKET

(Fira de Bellcaire; %93 246 30 30; www.encantsbcn.com; Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes; h9am-8pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat; mGlòries)

In a gleaming open-sided complex near Plaça de les Glòries Catalanes, the ‘Old Charms’ flea market is the biggest of its kind in Barcelona. Over 500 vendors ply their wares beneath massive mirror-like panels. It’s all here, from antique furniture through to secondhand clothes. There’s a lot of junk, but you’ll occasionally stumble across a ganga (bargain).

Maremàgnum MALL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 225 81 00; www.maremagnum.es; Moll d’Espanya 5; h10am-10pm; mDrassanes)

Created out of largely abandoned docks, this buzzing shopping centre, with its 19 places to eat, bars and cinemas, is home to 59 shops including youthful Spanish chain Mango, and eye-catching fashions from Barcelona-based Desigual. Football fans will be drawn to the paraphernalia at FC Botiga. It’s particularly popular on Sundays when most other stores in the city remain shuttered.

7La Sagrada Família & L’Eixample

oJoan Múrria FOOD & DRINKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 215 57 89; www.murria.cat; Carrer de Roger de Llúria 85; h10am-8.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Sat; mGirona)

Ramon Casas designed the 1898 Modernista shopfront advertisements featured at this culinary temple of speciality food goods from around Catalonia and beyond. Artisan cheeses, Iberian hams, caviar, canned delicacies, smoked fish, cavas and wines, coffee and loose-leaf teas are among the treats in store.

oFlores Navarro FLOWERS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 457 40 99; www.floristeriasnavarro.com; Carrer de València 320; h24hr; mGirona)

You never know when you might need flowers, and this florist never closes. Established in 1960, it’s a vast space (or couple of spaces, in fact), and worth a visit just for the bank of colour and wonderful fragrance.

Cacao Sampaka FOOD

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 272 08 33; www.cacaosampaka.com; Carrer del Consell de Cent 292; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia)

Chocoholics will be convinced they have died and passed on to a better place. Load up in the shop or head for the bar out the back where you can have a classic xocolata (hot chocolate) and munch on exquisite chocolate cakes, tarts, ice cream, sweets and sandwiches. The bonbons make particularly good presents.

Altaïr BOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 342 71 71; www.altair.es; Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 616; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; W; mCatalunya)

Enter a wonderland of travel in this extensive bookshop, which has enough guidebooks, maps, travel literature and other books to induce a severe case of itchy feet. It has a travellers noticeboard and, downstairs, a cafe.

Dr Bloom FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 292 23 27; www.drbloom.es; Rambla de Catalunya 30; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia)

A new collection comes out every month at Dr Bloom, so the stock is constantly rotating. Designed and made in Barcelona, the fashion label’s dresses, tops, shawls and more have an emphasis on bright colours and bold prints no matter the season.

El Corte Inglés DEPARTMENT STORE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 306 38 00; www.elcorteingles.es; Plaça de Catalunya 23; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mCatalunya)

Spain’s only remaining department-store chain stocks everything you’d expect, from computers to cushions and high fashion to homewares. Fabulous city views extend from the top-floor restaurant. Nearby branches include one at Avinguda Diagonal 471-473 (%93 493 48 00; www.elcorteingles.es; Avinguda Diagonal 471-473; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mHospital Clínic).

Casa Del Llibre BOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 026407; www.casadellibro.com; Passeig de Gràcia 62; h9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9.30pm Sun; mPasseig de Gràcia)

With branches throughout Spain, the ‘Home of the Book’ is a well-stocked general bookshop with sections devoted to literature in English, French and other languages, as well as a good number of guidebooks.

FNAC ELECTRONICS, BOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %902 100632; www.fnac.es; El Triangle, Plaça de Catalunya 4; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mCatalunya)

FNAC, the French electronics, book and music emporium, has a couple of branches around town, but this is the biggest.

7Gràcia & Park Güell

oColmillo de Morsa FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %645 206365; www.facebook.com/colmillodemorsa; Carrer de Vic 15-17; h4.30-8.30pm Mon, 11am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat; dFGC Gràcia)

Design team Javier Blanco and Elisabet Vallecillo have made waves at Madrid’s Cibeles Fashion Week and Paris’ fashion fair Who’s Next, and showcase their Barcelona-made women’s fashion here at their flagship boutique. They’ve also opened the floor to promote other young, up-and-coming local labels. The light-filled space also hosts art, graphic design and photography exhibitions and fashion shows.

Hibernian BOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 217 47 96; www.hibernian-books.com; Carrer de Montseny 17; h4-8.30pm Mon, 11am-8.30pm Tue-Sat; mFontana)

Barcelona’s biggest secondhand English bookshop stocks thousands of titles covering all sorts of subjects, from cookery to children’s classics. There’s a smaller collection of new books in English too.

Amalia Vermell JEWELLERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %655 754008; www.amaliavermell.com; Carrer de Francisco Giner 49; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat; mDiagonal)

Striking geometric jewellery made from high-quality materials such as sterling silver is handcrafted by Amalia Vermell here in her atelier. Browse for pendants and necklaces, bracelets and rings, or sign up for a jewellery-making course (from €65 for two hours; English available).

Vinil Vintage MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 192 39 99; Carrer de Ramón y Cajal 45-47; h10.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Tue-Sat; mJoanic)

Crate diggers will love rummaging through the vinyl collection here. There’s a huge range of rock, pop and jazz, including plenty of Spanish music. It also sells turntables and speakers.

Lady Loquita CLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 217 82 92; www.ladyloquita.com; Travessera de Gràcia 126; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mFontana)

At this hip little shop you can browse through light, locally made summer dresses by Tiralahilacha, evening wear by Japamala and handmade jewellery by local design label Klimbim. There are also whimsical odds and ends: dinner plates with dog-people portraits and digital prints on wood by About Paola.

Tintin Shop GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 289 25 24; www.tintinshopbcn.com; Travessera de Gràcia 176; h10.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2.30pm Sat; mFontana)

Fans of the Belgian boy wonder should make a beeline to this Gràcia store, where you’ll find Tintin T-shirts, posters, action figures, book bags, wristwatches, pencil cases, and even a soft, irresistible Milou (Tintin’s wire fox terrier, known as Snowy in English) – plus, of course, the books that made him famous (with titles in Catalan, Spanish and French).

Picnic CLOTHING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 016 69 53; www.picnicstore.es; Carrer de Verdi 17; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm & 4-9pm Sat; mFontana)

This tiny, beautifully curated boutique has many temptations: stylish sneakers by Meyba (a Barcelona brand), striped jerseys from Basque label Loreak Mendian and boldly patterned Mödernaked backpacks. Other finds include animal-print ceramics for the home, small-scale art prints and fashion mags.

Be GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 89 49; www.bethestore.com; Carrer de Bonavista 7; h10.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mDiagonal)

Be is a fun place to browse for accessories and gift ideas. You’ll find rugged vintage-looking satchels, leather handbags, stylish (and reflective) Happy Socks, portable record players, sneakers (Vans, Pumas, old-school Nikes) and gadgets (including richly hued Pantone micro speakers and Polaroid digital cameras).

Bodega Bonavista WINE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 81 99; Carrer de Bonavista 10; h10am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm & 6-9pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun; mFontana)

An excellent little neighbourhood bodega, Bonavista endeavours to seek out great wines at reasonable prices. The stock is mostly from Catalonia and elsewhere in Spain, but there’s also a well-chosen selection from France. The Bonavista also acts as a deli, and there are some especially good cheeses. You can sample wines by the glass, along with cheeses and charcuterie, at one of the in-store tables.

Mushi Mushi FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 292 29 74; www.mushimushicollection.com; Carrer de Bonavista 12; h11am-3pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mDiagonal)

A gorgeous little fashion boutique in an area that’s not short of them, Mushi Mushi specialises in quirky but elegant women’s fashion and accessories. It stocks small labels such as Des Petits Hauts, Sessùn and Orion London, as well as jewellery by Adriana Llorens. The collection changes frequently, so a return visit can pay off.

7Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta

Normandie CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

(%93 209 14 11; www.normandiebaby.com; Plaça de Sant Gregori Taumaturg; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; dFGC La Bonanova)

Set up by Barcelona-born, Paris-trained designer Graziella Antón de Vez in 2000, this fashion label for babies and children aged up to six years utilises all-natural materials such as angora, cotton, cashmere and wool. Adorable outfits are inspired by France’s Normandy region, with vintage- and retro-style lines.

Ukka FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(%661 919710; Carrer de Laforja 122; h10.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm Sat; dFGC Muntaner)

Ukka makes its bohemian-inspired women’s fashion and accessories (including scarves, hats and some eye-catching jewellery) at its Barcelona factory and sells them exclusively in this chic little terracotta-floored boutique.

Labperfum COSMETICS

(%93 298 95 12; www.labperfum.com; Carrer de Santaló 45; h10am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat; dFGC Muntaner)

This tiny shop looks like an old apothecary, with its shelves lined with pretty glass bottles of extraordinary fragrances (for men and women) made in-house and beautifully packaged. Scents diverge from run-of-the-mill Obsession, with varieties like tobacco, black orchid and leather. You can also buy scented candles, soaps and creams.

L’Illa Diagonal MALL

(%93 444 00 00; www.lilla.com; Avinguda Diagonal 557; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mMaria Cristina)

One of Barcelona’s best malls, this is a fine place to while away a few hours (or days), with high-end shops and a mesmerising spread of eateries.

7Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni

Popcorn Store FASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Carrer Viladomat 30-32; h11am-3pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

Cutting-edge Barcelona labels for women at this 2017-opened boutique include Sister Dew, with asymmetrical tops, jackets, dresses and more, and Ester Gueroa, with bold prints and lace. Men will find stylish shirts, trousers and belts from Italian and other European designers.

10000 Records MUSIC

(%93 292 77 76; www.10000records.es; Carrer de Floridablanca 70; h5-8pm Mon, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mPoble Sec)

As its name suggests, this record shop overflows with vintage and new vinyl in all genres but especially rock, pop, metal and jazz. You’ll also unearth retro radios, cassettes and music books.

Mercat de Sant Antoni MARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 426 35 21; www.mercatdesantantoni.com; Carrer de Comte d’Urgell 1; h7am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Thu, 7am-8.30pm Fri & Sat; mSant Antoni)

Just beyond the western edge of El Raval is Mercat de Sant Antoni, a glorious old iron-and-brick building constructed between 1872 and 1882. The secondhand book market takes place alongside on Sunday mornings.

The market recently underwent a nine-year renovation and reopened in 2018 with 250 stalls.

8Information

EMERGENCY & USEFUL NUMBERS

Ambulance	%061
EU standard emergency number	%112
Country code	%34
International access code	%00
Tourist police	%93 256 24 30

MEDICAL SERVICES

AAll foreigners have the same right as Spaniards to emergency medical treatment in public hospitals. EU citizens are entitled to the full range of health-care services in public hospitals, but must present a European Health Insurance Card (enquire at your national health service) and may have to pay upfront.

ANon-EU citizens have to pay for anything other than emergency treatment. Most travel-insurance policies include medical cover.

AFor minor health problems you can try any farmàcia (pharmacy), where pharmaceuticals tend to be sold more freely without prescription than in places such as the USA, Australia or the UK.

AIf your country has a consulate in Barcelona, its staff should be able to refer you to doctors who speak your language.

MONEY

Barcelona abounds with banks, many of which have ATMs. ATMs are in plentiful supply around Plaça de Catalunya, and along Via Laietana and La Rambla. Most ATMs allow you to use international debit or credit cards to withdraw money in euros. There is usually a charge (around 1.5% to 2%) on ATM cash withdrawals when abroad.

You can change cash or travellers cheques in most major currencies without problems at virtually any bank or bureau de change (usually indicated by the word canvi/cambio).

The foreign-exchange offices that you see along La Rambla and elsewhere are open for longer hours than banks, but they generally offer poorer rates. Also, keep a sharp eye open for commissions at bureaux de change.

POST

Correos is Spain’s national postal service. Barcelona’s main post office is a lovely fresco-filled building just opposite the northeast end of Port Vell at Plaça d’Antonio López. Another handy post office branch lies just off Passeig de Gràcia at Carrer d’Aragó 282. Many other branches tend to open between 8.30am and 2.30pm Monday to Friday and from 9.30am to 1pm on Saturday.

Segells/sellos (stamps) are sold at most estancs (tobacconists’ shops) and at post offices throughout the city.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Several tourist offices operate in Barcelona. A couple of general information telephone numbers worth bearing in mind are 010 and 012. The first is for Barcelona and the other is for all Catalonia (run by the Generalitat). You sometimes strike English speakers, although for the most part operators are Catalan/Spanish bilingual. In addition to tourist offices, information booths operate at Estació del Nord bus station and at Portal de la Pau, at the foot of the Mirador de Colom at the port end of La Rambla. Others set up at various points in the city centre in summer.

Plaça de Catalunya

Plaça Sant Jaume (MAP; %93 285 38 34; www.barcelonaturisme.com; Plaça Catalunya 17; h8.30am-8.30pm; mCatalunya)

Estació Sants (%93 285 38 34; www.barcelonaturisme.com; Barcelona Sants; h8.30am-8.30pm; dSants Estació)

El Prat Airport (www.barcelonaturisme.com; h8.30am-8.30pm)

Palau Robert Regional Tourist Office (MAP; %93 238 80 91; www.palaurobert.gencat.cat; Passeig de Gràcia 107; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 2.30pm Sun; mDiagonal) Offers a host of material on Catalonia, audiovisual resources, a bookshop and a branch of Turisme Juvenil de Catalunya (for youth travel).

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Barcelona’s El Prat airport (%902 404704; www.aena.es) lies 17km southwest of Plaça de Catalunya at El Prat de Llobregat. The airport has two main terminal buildings: the T1 terminal and the older T2, itself divided into three terminal areas (A, B and C).

Arrivals In T1, the main arrivals area is on the 1st floor (with separate areas for EU Schengen Area arrivals, non-EU international arrivals and the Barcelona–Madrid corridor).

Departures In T1, boarding gates are on the 1st and 3rd floors.

Tourist Information The main tourist office is on the ground floor of Terminal 2B. Others on the ground floor of Terminal 2A and in Terminal 1 operate the same hours.

BOAT

It is possible to travel between Barcelona and the Balearic Islands and Italy by ferry, though it is rarely the cheaper option.

Passenger and vehicular ferries operated by Trasmediterránea (%902 454645; www.trasmediterranea.es; mDrassanes) to/from the Balearic Islands dock around the Moll de Barcelona wharf in Port Vell. Information and tickets are available at the terminal buildings along Moll de Sant Bertran, on Moll de Barcelona and from travel agents.

Fares vary enormously according to season, how far in advance you book and whether or not you want a cabin. Fares for a Butaca Turista (seat) from Barcelona to any of the islands typically start around €60. Cabins for up to four people are also available on overnight standard ferries.

Grandi Navi Veloci (MAP; www.gnv.it; Ronda del Port; mDrassanes) runs high-speed, luxury ferries three (sometimes more) days a week between Genoa and Barcelona. The journey takes 18 hours. Ticket prices vary wildly depending on season and how far in advance you purchase them. They start at about €80 one way for an airline-style seat in summer, and can be bought online or at Trasmediterránea ticket windows. The same company runs a similar number of ferries between Barcelona and Tangier, Morocco (voyage time about 26 hours).

Grimaldi Ferries (MAP; www.grimaldi-lines.com; Ronda del Port; mDrassanes) operates similar services from Barcelona to Civitavecchia (near Rome, 20½ hours, six to seven times a week), Livorno (Tuscany, 19½ hours, three times a week) and Porto Torres (northwest Sardinia, 12 hours, daily).

BUS

Long-distance buses leave from Estació del Nord (%93 706 53 66; www.barcelonanord.cat; Carrer d’Ali Bei 80; mArc de Triomf). A plethora of companies service different parts of Spain; many come under the umbrella of Alsa (%902 422242; www.alsa.es). For other companies, ask at the bus station. There are frequent services to Madrid, Valencia and Zaragoza (20 or more a day) and several daily departures to distant destinations such as Burgos, Santiago de Compostela and Seville.

Eurolines (www.eurolines.es), in conjunction with local carriers all over Europe, is the main international carrier. Its website provides links to national operators; it runs services across Europe and to Morocco from Estació del Nord, and from Estació d’Autobusos de Sants (%902 432343; www.adif.es; Carrer de Viriat; mSants Estació), next to Estació Sants Barcelona.

Much of the Pyrenees and the entire Costa Brava are served only by buses, as train services are limited to important railheads such as Girona, Figueres, Lleida, Ripoll and Puigcerdà.

Various bus companies operate across the region. Most operate from Estació del Nord, but Hispano-Igualadina (%93 339 79 29; www.igualadina.com; Carrer de Viriat; mSants Estació) and TEISA (MAP; %93 215 35 66; www.teisa-bus.com; Carrer de Pau Claris 117; mPasseig de Gràcia) do not.

Hispano-Igualadina buses depart from Estació Sants, which is also Barcelona’s main train station. TEISA buses depart from a stop on Carrer de Pau Claris in L’Eixample.

TRAIN

Train is the most convenient overland option for reaching Barcelona from major Spanish centres like Madrid and Valencia. It can be a long haul from other parts of Europe – budget flights frequently offer a saving in time and money. The main train station in Barcelona is Estació de Sants (h8am-8pm; mSants Estació). Frequent high-speed Tren de Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) trains between Madrid and Barcelona run daily in each direction, several of them in under three hours.

Most long-distance (largo recorrido or Grandes Líneas) trains have 1st and 2nd classes (known as preferente and turista). After the AVE, Euromed and several other similarly modern trains, the most common long-distance trains are the slower, all-stops Talgos. A trenhotel is a sleeping-car train with up to three classes: turista (seats or couchettes), preferente (sleeping car) and gran clase (for those who prefer to sleep in sheer luxury!).

A network of rodalies/cercanías serves towns around Barcelona (and the airport). Contact Renfe (%91 232 03 20; www.renfe.es).

WARNING: WATCH YOUR BELONGINGS

A Violent crime is rare in Barcelona, but petty crime (bag-snatching, pickpocketing) is a major problem.

A You’re at your most vulnerable when dragging around luggage to or from your hotel; make sure you know your route before arriving.

A Be mindful of your belongings, particularly in crowded areas.

A Avoid walking around El Raval and the southern end of La Rambla late at night.

A Don’t wander down empty city streets at night. When in doubt, take a taxi.

A Take nothing of value to the beach and don’t leave anything unattended.

8Getting Around

Barcelona has abundant options for getting around town. The excellent metro can get you most places, with buses and trams filling in the gaps. Taxis are the best option late at night.

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

The A1 Aerobús (MAP; %902 100104; www.aerobusbcn.com; Plaça d’Espanya; one way/return €5.90/10.20; h5.05am-12.35am) runs from Terminal 1 to Plaça de Catalunya (30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic) via Plaça d’Espanya, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes (corner of Carrer del Comte d’Urgell) and Plaça de la Universitat every five to 10 minutes from 6.10am to 1.05am. Departures from Plaça de Catalunya are from 5.30am to 12.30am and stop at the corner of Carrer de Sepúlveda and Carrer del Comte d’Urgell, and at Plaça d’Espanya. The A2 Aerobús from Terminal 2 (stops outside terminal areas A, B and C) runs from 6am to 1am with a frequency of between 10 and 20 minutes and follows the same route as the A1 Aerobús.

Slower local buses (such as the No 46 to/from Plaça d’Espanya and two night buses, the N17 and N18, to/from Plaça de Catalunya) also serve Terminals 1 and 2. Metro L9 connects with the airport (special tickets are €4.60) but is slow and only really convenient if you are staying in the north of the city.

A taxi between either terminal and the city centre – about a half-hour ride depending on traffic – costs around €25. Fares and charges are posted inside the passenger side of the taxi; make sure the meter is used.

Train operator Renfe runs the R2 Nord line every half-hour from Terminal 2 (from 5.42am to 11.38pm) via several stops to Barcelona’s main train station, Estació Sants, and Passeig de Gràcia in central Barcelona, after which it heads northwest out of the city. The first service from Passeig de Gràcia leaves at 5.08am and the last at 11.07pm, and about five minutes later from Estació Sants. The trip between the airport and Passeig de Gràcia takes 25 minutes. A one-way ticket costs €2.50.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

With the convenience of public transport and the high price of parking in the city, it’s unwise to drive in Barcelona. However, if you’re planning a road trip outside the city, a car is handy.

Avis, Europcar, National/Atesa and Hertz have desks at El Prat airport, Estació Sants and Estació del Nord. Rental outlets in Barcelona include the following:

Avis (%902 110275; www.avis.com; Carrer de Còrsega 293-295; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 1pm Sun; mDiagonal)

Cooltra (%93 221 40 70; www.cooltra.com; Via Laietana 6; scooter hire per day €28-35; h10am-8pm; mBarceloneta) Rents out scooters and organises scooter tours.

Europcar (%93 302 05 43; www.europcar.es; Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 680; h8am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; mGirona)

Hertz (%902 998707; www.hertz.com; Carrer de Viriat 45; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun; mSants Estació)

MondoRent (%93 295 32 68; www.mondorent.com; Passeig de Joan de Borbó 80-84; scooter rental per day from €35; h10am-8pm; mBarceloneta) Rents out scooters as well as electric bikes.

Enterprise (%93 323 07 01; www.enterprise.es; Carrer de Muntaner 45; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; mUniversitat)

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Bus

Buses run along most city routes every few minutes from between 5am and 6.30am to around 10pm and 11pm. Many routes pass through Plaça de Catalunya and/or Plaça de la Universitat. After 11pm a reduced network of yellow nitbusos (night buses) runs until 3am or 5am. All nitbus routes pass through Plaça de Catalunya and most run every 30 to 45 minutes.

Metro & FGC

The easy-to-use metro system has 11 numbered and colour-coded lines. It runs from 5am to midnight Sunday to Thursday and holidays, from 5am to 2am on Friday and days immediately preceding holidays, and 24 hours on Saturday.

Suburban trains run by the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya (FGC; %012; www.fgc.net) include a couple of useful city lines. All lines heading north from Plaça de Catalunya stop at Carrer de Provença and Gràcia. One of these lines (L7) goes to Tibidabo and another (L6 to Reina Elisenda) has a stop near the Monestir de Pedralbes. Most trains from Plaça de Catalunya continue beyond Barcelona to Sant Cugat, Sabadell and Terrassa. Other FGC lines head west from Plaça d’Espanya, including one for Manresa that is handy for the trip to Montserrat.

Depending on the line, these trains run from about 5am (with only one or two services before 6am) to 11pm or midnight Sunday to Thursday, and from 5am to about 1am on Friday and Saturday.

Tickets & Passes

The metro, FGC trains, rodalies/cercanías (Renfe-run local trains) and buses come under a combined system. Single-ride tickets on all standard transport within Zone 1 cost €2.15.

Targetes are multitrip transport tickets. They are sold at all city-centre metro stations. The prices given here are for travel in Zone 1. Children under four years of age travel free. Options include the following:

ATargeta T-10 (€10.20) – 10 rides (each valid for 1¼ hours) on the metro, buses, FGC trains and rodalies. You can change between metro, FGC, rodalies and buses, and users can share the same targeta.

ATargeta T-DIA (€8.60) – unlimited travel on all transport for one day.

ATwo-/three-/four-/five-day tickets (€15/22/28.50/35) – unlimited travel on all transport except the Aerobús; buy them at metro stations and tourist offices.

AT-Mes (€54) – 30 days’ unlimited use of all public transport.

ATargeta T-50/30 (€43.50) – 50 trips within 30 days, valid on all transport.

AT-Trimestre (€145.30) – 90 days’ unlimited use of all public transport.

TAXIS

Taxis charge €2.10 flag fall plus meter charges of €1.10 per kilometre (€1.30 from 8pm to 8am and all day on weekends). A further €3.10 is added for all trips to/from the airport, and €1 for luggage bigger than 55cm × 35cm × 35cm. The trip from Estació Sants to Plaça de Catalunya, about 3km, costs about €11.

Taxi Amic (%93 420 80 88; www.taxi-amic-adaptat.com) is a special taxi service for people with disabilities or difficult situations (such as transport of big objects). Book at least 24 hours in advance if possible.