GAY & LESBIAN BARCELONA
Barcelona has a vibrant gay and lesbian scene, with a fine array of restaurants, bars and clubs in the district known as the ‘Gaixample’ (a portmanteau of Gay and L’Eixample), an area about five to six blocks southwest of Passeig de Gràcia around Carrer del Consell de Cent.
Aire (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sala Diana; 
%93 487 83 42; www.grupoarena.com; Carrer de la Diputació 233; cover Fri/Sat €5/6; 
h11pm-2.30am Thu-Sat; 
mPasseig de Gràcia) At this popular lesbian hang-out, the dance floor is spacious and there’s usually a DJ in command of the tunes, which veer from hits of the ’80s and ’90s to Latin and techno. As a rule, only male friends of the girls are allowed entry, although in practice the crowd tends to be fairly mixed.
Arena Classic (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 487 83 42; www.grupoarena.com; Carrer de la Diputació 233; cover Fri/Sat €6/12; h2.30am-6am Fri & Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia) Spinning mostly techno, Arena Classic attracts an upbeat, energetic gay crowd. Entry includes a drink.
Metro (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 323 52 27; www.metrodiscobcn.com; Carrer de Sepúlveda 185; cover before/after 2am from €8/20; h12.15am-5.30am Sun-Thu, to 6.45am Fri & Sat; mUniversitat) Metro attracts a fun-loving gay crowd with its two dance floors, three bars and very dark room. Keep an eye out for shows and parties, which can range from parades of models to bingo nights (on Thursday nights, with sometimes-interesting prizes), plus the occasional striptease.
Punto BCN (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 451 91 52; www.grupoarena.com; Carrer de Muntaner 65; h6pm-2.30am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mUniversitat) It’s an oldie but a goody. A big bar over two levels with a slightly older crowd, this place fills to bursting on Friday and Saturday nights with its blend of Spanish pop and dance. It’s a friendly early stop on a gay night out, and you can shoot a round of pool here.
5Gràcia & Park Güell
Chivuo’s BURGERS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 51 34; www.chivuos.com; Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla 175; burgers €7-9; h1-5pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; mFontana)
Burgers and craft beers make a fine pair at this buzzing den. A mostly local crowd comes for huge burgers (served rare unless you specify otherwise) with house-made sauces – best ordered with fluffy, golden-fried fritas (chips). Mostly Catalan and Spanish brews, including excellent offerings from Barcelona-based Edge Brewing, Catalan Brewery, Napar and Garage Beer, rotate on the eight taps.
.IT ITALIAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 461 92 71; Carrer del Topazi 26; mains €6.50-12; h9.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Sat, closed Aug; 
W
v; mFontana)
Pizza bases at.IT (‘Italian Tradition’) are made from Caputo flour and fermented for 48 hours before being baked in a 400°C wood-fired oven. Just some of the classic topping combinations include Veneto (gorgonzola, mozzarella, radicchio and walnuts) and Abbruzzo (fresh tomato, scamorza cheese, pistachio mortadella and basil). Huge, fresh salads are a meal in themselves; pastas change daily.
Casa Portuguesa BAKERY€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 021 88 03; www.acasaportuguesa.com; Carrer de l’Or 8; dishes €2-8; h10.30am-9pm; mFontana)
Overlooking Plaça del Diamant, Casa Portuguesa is a delightful bakery and purveyor of delicacies. The pasteis de belém (Portuguese-style custard tarts) are magnificent, and you’ll also find fruit tarts, daily changing organic salads, good coffee and Portuguese wines. For a kick, have a shot of ginjinha (cherry brandy).
Bar Bodega Quimet TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 41 89; Carrer de Vic 23; tapas €3-11.50; h10am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat & Sun; mFontana)
A remnant from a bygone age, Bar Bodega Quimet is a delightfully atmospheric bar, with old bottles lining the walls, marble tables and a burnished wooden bar. The list of tapas and seafood is almost exhaustive, while another house speciality is torrades – huge slabs of toasted white bread topped with cured meats, fresh anchovies and sardines.
La Pubilla CATALAN€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 29 94; Plaça de la Llibertat 23; mains €8-13.50; h8.30am-5pm Mon, to midnight Tue-Sat; mFontana)
Hidden away by the Mercat de la Llibertat, La Pubilla specialises in hearty ‘esmorzars de forquilla’ (‘fork breakfasts’) beloved by market workers and nearby residents. There’s also a daily three-course menú del día for €16, which includes Catalan dishes such as baked cod, or roast pork cheek with chickpeas. Arrive early for a chance of a table.
La Nena CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 285 14 76; www.facebook.com/chocolaterialanena; Carrer de Ramon i Cajal 36; dishes €2-4.50; h8.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; 
c; mFontana)
At this delightfully chaotic space, indulge in cups of suïssos (rich hot chocolate) served with a plate of heavy homemade whipped cream and melindros (spongy sweet biscuits), desserts and a few savoury dishes (including crêpes). The place is strewn with books, and you can play with the board games on the shelves.
Himali NEPALI€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 285 15 68; www.restaurantehimalibcn.com; Carrer de Milà i Fontanals 60; mains €7.50-13; hnoon-11.30pm; mJoanic)
Strung with Nepalese prayer flags, this simple spot serves dishes such as lamb curry, mixed grills with rice and naan, and lamb and vegetable momo (dumplings).
Pepa Tomate TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 210 46 98; www.pepatomategrup.com; Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868 17; sharing plates €7-17; h8pm-midnight Mon, from 9am Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat, from 11am Sun; c; mFontana)
This casual tapas spot on Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868 is popular at all hours of the day. Fresh produce takes front and centre on the wide-ranging menu in dishes like fried green tomatoes, Andalucian baby squid, tandoori lamb tacos, Iberian pork or mushroom, croquettes, and carrot gazpacho in summer.
Café Godot INTERNATIONAL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 368 20 36; www.cafegodot.com; Carrer de Sant Domènec 19; mains €10-18.50; h10am-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun; mFontana)
A stylish space of exposed brick, timber and tiles, opening to a garden out back, Godot is a relaxing place with an extensive menu, ranging from white-wine-steamed mussels and scallops with Thai-style green curry to duck confit with lentils and spinach. Brunch is an American-style affair with eggs, crispy bacon and fluffy pancakes.
Cantina Machito MEXICAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 217 34 14; Carrer de Torrijos 47; mains €9.50-16.50; h1-4pm & 7pm-1am; mFontana, Joanic)
On a leafy street, colourful Machito – adorned with Frida Kahlo images – gets busy with locals, and the outside tables are a great place to eat and drink until late. Start with a michelada (spicy beer cocktail) before dining on Mexican delights like quesadillas, tacos and enchiladas. Refreshing iced waters are flavoured with honey and lime or mint and fruit.
La Panxa del Bisbe TAPAS€€
(%93 213 70 49; Carrer del Torrent de les Flors 158; tapas €8.50-15, tasting menus €28-36; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; mJoanic)
With low lighting and an artfully minimalist interior, the ‘Bishop’s Belly’ serves creative tapas that earn high praise from the mostly local crowd. Feast on prawn-stuffed courgette flowers, grilled octopus with green chilli and watermelon, and slow-roasted lamb with mint couscous. Top off the meal with a bottle of wine such as an Albariño white from Galicia (by-the-glass options are more limited).
Cal Boter CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 458 84 62; www.restaurantcalboter.com; Carrer de Tordera 62; mains €8-15; h1-4pm & 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun & Mon; mJoanic)
Families and high-spirited groups of pals are drawn to this classic restaurant for cargols a la llauna (snails sautéed in a tin), filet de bou amb salsa de foie (a thick clump of tender beef drowned in an orange and foie gras sauce), and other Catalan specialities.
Envalira CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 58 13; Plaça del Sol 13; mains €13-21; h1.30-4pm & 9pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun; mFontana)
You might not notice the modest entrance to this Gràcia relic, where serious waiters deliver all sorts of seafood and rice dishes to your table, from arròs a la milanesa (savoury rice with chicken, pork and a light cheese gratin) to a bullit de lluç (slice of white hake boiled with herb-laced rice and a handful of clams).
Taverna La Llesca CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 285 02 46; www.tavernalallesca.com; Carrer de Terol 6; mains €10-18; h1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight; mFontana)
Barrels of vermouth overhang the bar at this old-school tavern, which dishes up hearty portions of meat. Wash it down with a Spanish red.
Can Travi Nou CATALAN€€€
(%93 428 03 01; www.gruptravi.com; Carrer de Jorge Manrique 8; mains €15.50-30; h1-4pm & 8-11pm; mMontbau)
Dining areas stretch out across two floors of this expansive 18th-century mansion. The warm colours, grandfather clock and rustic air make for a magical setting for dining on Catalan specialities like slow-roasted pork and lamb, and seafood casseroles. Reserve ahead.
Botafumeiro SEAFOOD€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 218 42 30; www.botafumeiro.es; Carrer Gran de Gràcia 81; mains €22-59; hnoon-1am; mFontana)
This temple of Galician shellfish has long been a magnet for VIPs visiting Barcelona. You can bring the price down by sharing a few medias raciones (large tapas plates) to taste a range of marine offerings followed by mains like spider crab pie, squid ink paella or grilled spiny lobster.
It’s a good place to try percebes, the strangely twisted goose barnacles harvested along Galicia’s north Atlantic coast, which many Spaniards consider the ultimate seafood delicacy.
5Camp Nou, Pedralbes & La Zona Alta
La Fermata de Sarrià PIZZA€
(%93 315 84 02; www.lafermata.es; Carrer Major de Sarrià 2-4; pizza per kg €14-28; h12.30-4pm & 7.30-11pm; 
g66,130, 
dFGC Sarrià)
Rectangular pizza slices are sold al taglio (by weight) at this little pizzeria run by a Rome-trained chef, and come in an array of classic and Catalonian-inspired toppings (150 varieties altogether, though not at the same time). It’s perfect for picking up takeaway, but there’s also a counter with stool seating and a handful of tables on the pavement.
Mitja Vida TAPAS€
(www.morrofi.cat; Carrer de Brusi 39; tapas €3-7; h6-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-4pm & 6-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-4pm Sun, closed Aug; dFGC Sant Gervasi)
A young, fun, mostly local crowd gathers around the stainless-steel tapas bar of tiny Mitja Vida. It’s a jovial eating and drinking spot, with good-sized portions of anchovies, calamari, smoked herring, cheeses and mojama (salt-cured tuna). The drink of choice is house-made vermouth.
Santamasa CATALAN€
(%93 676 35 74; www.santamasarestaurant.com; Carrer Major de Sarrià 97; dishes €6.50-13; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; dFGC Reina Elisenda)
Next door to Sarrià’s pretty 18th-century church Sant Vicenç de Sarrià, Santamasa is an enticing spot for a light meal at any time of day. The menu here is wide-ranging, with a mix of creatively topped pizzetes (small pizzas), salads, open-faced sandwiches, fondue, burgers, quesadillas and good sharing appetisers like hummus and guacamole.
oAcontraluz MEDITERRANEAN€€
(%93 203 06 58; www.acontraluz.com; Carrer del Milanesat 19; mains €15-27; h1.30-4pm & 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun; dFGC Les Tres Torres)
The most magical place to dine at this romantic restaurant is in the bougainvillea-draped, tree-filled garden, reached by an arbour. Olive-crusted monkfish with caramelised fennel, black paella with squid and clams, and suckling pig with fig jam are all outstanding choices. Don’t miss the rum-soaked carrot cake with cardamom ice cream for dessert.
oAspic CAFE, DELI€€
(%93 200 04 35; www.aspic.es; Avinguda de Pau Casals 24; dishes €9-19.50; hcafe 11am-1.30pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun, deli 9am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun, bar to midnight Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; Wv; 
jT1, T2, T3 Francesc Macià)
Luxury ingredients (smoked salmon, premium charcuterie and cheeses, high-grade olive oils and carefully chosen Spanish wines) are utilised at the flagship cafe of this Barcelona caterer in stunning dishes like local carrelet fish with cockle foam and broccoli purée. The attached deli is perfect for picking up items for a gourmet picnic in nearby Jardins del Poeta Eduard Marquina.
Bangkok Cafe THAI€€
(%93 339 32 69; Carrer d’Evarist Arnús 65; mains €10-14; h8-11pm Mon-Wed, 1-3.45pm & 8-11pm Thu-Sun; mPlaça del Centre)
If you’re craving Thai cuisine, it’s well worth making the trip out to Bangkok Cafe, which serves up spicy green papaya salad, tam yam kung (spicy prawn soup), crispy prawns with plum sauce, red curries and other standouts, with more spice than you’ll find in most Catalan eateries.
It’s a small, buzzing place with an open kitchen, photos of the Thai royals, blackboard specials and an oversized chandelier. Enter from the side lane.
El Asador de Aranda SPANISH€€
(%93 417 01 15; www.asadordearanda.net; Avinguda del Tibidabo 31; tapas €6-16.50, mains €15-22.50; h1-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm; W; dFGC Avinguda Tibidabo)
Set in a striking Modernista building, complete with stained-glass windows, Moorish-style brick arches and elaborate ceilings, El Asador de Aranda’s most popular seats are on the landscaped terrace. You’ll find a fine assortment of tapas plates for sharing, though the speciality is the meat (roast lamb, spare ribs, beef), prepared in a wood-fired oven.
oLa Balsa MEDITERRANEAN€€€
(%93 211 50 48; www.labalsarestaurant.com; Carrer de la Infanta Isabel 4; mains €20-28; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun; W; dFGC Avinguda Tibidabo)
With its grand ceiling and the scented gardens that surround the main terrace dining area, La Balsa is one of the city’s premier dining addresses. The seasonally changing menu is a mix of traditional Catalan and creative expression (suckling pig with melon; cod confit with prune compote). Lounge over a cocktail at the bar before being directed to your table.
oVia Veneto GASTRONOMY€€€
(%93 200 72 44; www.viaveneto.es; Carrer de Ganduxer 10; mains €28-52.50; h1-4pm & 8-11.45pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.45pm Sat, closed Aug; dFGC La Bonanova)
Dalí was a regular in this high-society restaurant after it opened in 1967, and you can still dine at his favourite table today. The oval mirrors, orange-rose tablecloths, leather chairs and fine cutlery set the stage for intricate dishes such as smoked oysters with minced black bread and red mullet with chargrilled onion leaves.
Can Cortada CATALAN€€€
(%93 427 23 15; www.cancortada.com; Avinguda de l’Estatut de Catalunya; mains €21.50-29; h1-4pm & 8-11pm; mMundet)
The setting and the hearty welcome make this 11th-century estate (complete with the remains of a defensive tower) worth the excursion. Grilled meats dominate, though you’ll also find seasonal dishes like artichokes fired up on the grill and calçots (spring onions) in winter. Try for a table in the former cellars or on the garden terrace.
5Montjuïc, Poble Sec & Sant Antoni
Spice CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 624 33 59; www.spicecafe.es; Carrer de Margarit 13; dishes €3.50-5; h4-9pm Tue-Thu, 11am-9pm Fri-Sun; W; mPoble Sec)
Run by friendly English-speaking staff, Spice is a delightful cafe that’s earned a following for its delicious homemade desserts, such as ricotta and cinnamon cheesecake or a gluten-free orange and cardamom loaf. Along with excellent coffees, there are loose-leaf teas and homemade sodas.
Federal CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 187 36 07; www.federalcafe.es; Carrer del Parlament 39; mains €9-12; h8am-11pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1am Fri, 9am-1am Sat, 9am-5.30pm Sun; Wv; mSant Antoni)
On a stretch that now teems with cafes, Australian-run Federal was the trailbazer, with its good coffee (including a decent flat white) and superb brunches. Later in the day, healthy, tasty options span snacks (prawn toast, polenta chips with gorgonzola) to larger dishes like veggie burgers or grilled salmon with soba noodles. Head to the small, breezy roof terrace.
Escribà PASTRIES€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 454 75 35; www.escriba.es; Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 546; pastries €2-6.50; h8.30am-8.30pm; mUrgell)
Antoni Escribà carries forward a family tradition (since 1906) of melting barcelonins’ hearts with remarkable pastries and chocolate creations. Seasonal treats include the Easter bunyols de xocolata (little round pastry balls filled with chocolate cream). Escribà has another branch in a Modernista setting at La Rambla.
Horchateria Sirvent ICE CREAM€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 441 27 20; www.turronessirvent.com; Carrer del Parlament 56; ice cream €1.60-3, horchata €2.20-3.90; h9am-10pm; mSant Antoni)
Along with ice cream, granissat (iced fruit crush) and turrón (nougat), this old-school parlour has served barcelonins’ favourite source of orxata/horchata (tiger-nut drink) since 1926 – the best you’ll try without having to catch the train down to this drink’s spiritual home, Valencia. You can get it by the glass or take it away.
oAgust Gastrobar BISTRO€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 162 67 33; www.agustbarcelona.com; Carrer del Parlament 54; mains €12.50-24; hkitchen 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 2pm-midnight Fri-Sun, bar to 2am; mPoble Sec)
Set up by two French chefs (one of whom trained under Gordon Ramsay), Agust occupies a fabulous mezzanine space with timber beams, exposed brick and textured metro tiles. Baby scallops with seaweed butter and prawn-stuffed avocado cannelloni are savoury standouts; desserts include the extraordinary ‘el cactus’ (chocolate-crumble soil, mojito mousse and prickly pear sorbet) served in a terracotta flower pot.
oQuimet i Quimet TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 442 31 42; Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25; tapas €4-10, montaditos €2.80-4; hnoon-4pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat, closed Aug; mParal·lel)
Quimet i Quimet is a family-run business passed down from generation to generation. There’s barely space to swing a calamar (squid) in this bottle-lined, standing-room-only place, but it is a treat for the palate, with montaditos (tapas on a slice of bread) made to order.
Mano Rota BISTRO€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 164 80 41; www.manorota.com; Carrer de la Creu dels Molers 4; mains €15-22; h8-11.30pm Mon, 1-3.30pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun; mPoble Sec)
Exposed brick, aluminium pipes, industrial light fittings and recycled timbers create a hip, contemporary setting for inspired bistro cooking at Mano Rota (which literally translates as ‘broken hand’, but is actually a Spanish idiom for consummate skill). Asian, South American and Mediterranean flavours combine in dishes such as crispy squid with yuzu aioli or dorade (bream) with pak choy pesto.
Lascar 74 PERUVIAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 017 98 72; www.lascar.es; Carrer del Roser 74; mains €12-15; h7-11.30pm Mon-Thu, 2-5pm & 7pm-11.30pm Fri-Sun; mParal·lel)
At this self-styled ‘ceviche and pisco bar’, oyster shooters with leche de tigre (the traditional ceviche marinade) are served alongside exquisite Peruvian ceviches as well as renditions from Thailand, Japan and Mexico. Pisco sours are the real deal, frothy egg white and all.
Malamén CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 252 77 63; www.malamen.es; Carrer de Blai 53; mains €12-24; h8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; mPoble Sec)
Carrer de Blai is lined with bars and restaurants, but Malamén towers above most for its elegant art-deco-inspired design, immaculate service and gourmet versions of Catalan classics. Its shortish menu offers confit tuna, dill and caper salad, juicy steak with creamed mushrooms and blue-cheese croquettes, and the wine list is equally concise.
Bodega 1900 TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 325 26 59; www.bodega1900.com; Carrer de Tamarit 91; tapas €6-15; h1pm-10.30pm Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mPoble Sec)
Bodega 1900 mimics an old-school tapas and vermouth bar, but don’t be fooled: this venture from the world-famous Adrià brothers creates gastronomic tapas such as ‘spherified’ reconstructed olives, or its mollete de calamars, probably the best squid sandwich in the world, hot from the pan and served with chipotle mayonnaise, kimchi and lemon zest.
Casa Xica FUSION€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 600 58 58; Carrer de la França Xica 20; sharing plates €5-15; h8.30-11pm Mon, 1.30-11pm Tue-Sat; mPoble Sec)
On the parlour floor of an old house, Casa Xica is a casual but artfully designed space where elements of the Far East are fused with fresh Catalan ingredients (owners Marc and Raquel lived and travelled in Asia).
Casa de Tapas Cañota TAPAS€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 325 91 71; www.casadetapas.com; Carrer de Lleida 7; tapas €5-14; h1-4pm & 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun; mPoble Sec)
Between Poble Sec and Plaça d’Espanya, this friendly, unfussy option serves affordable, nicely turned out tapas plates. Seafood is the speciality, with rich razor clams, garlic-fried prawns and tender octopus. Wash it down with a refreshing bottle of albariño (a Galician white).
Fàbrica Moritz GASTROPUB€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 426 00 50; www.moritz.com; Ronda de Sant Antoni 41; sandwiches €6.50-11, mains €8-19.50; h9am-3am; mSant Antoni)
In a building redesigned by architect Jean Nouvel, with a menu created by chef Jordi Vilà of Michelin-starred Alkímia (also on the premises), this restaurant at the Moritz brewery offers pan-European gastropub fare such as gourmet sandwiches, moules-frites (mussels and fries), steak tartare, whole roast chicken, fish and chips, frankfurters with sauerkraut and flammkuchen (Alsatian-style pizza).
Bodega Sepúlveda CATALAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 323 59 44; www.bodegasepulveda.net; Carrer de Sepúlveda 173; mains €11-21; h1.30-4.30pm & 8pm-1am Mon-Fri, 8pm-1am Sat; mUniversitat)
This venerable tavern has been in business since 1952. The dizzying range of dishes mixes traditional (Catalan faves like cap i pota – stew made with bits of the calf you don’t want to think about) with more surprising options like carpaccio de calabacín con bacalao y parmesán (thin courgette slices draped in cod and Parmesan).
oEnigma GASTRONOMY€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %616 696322; www.enigmaconcept.es; Carrer de Sepúlveda 38-40; tasting menu €220; h1-4pm & 4.30-10.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-5.30pm & 6-10.30pm Sat; mEspanya)
Resembling a 3D art installation, this conceptual offering from the famed Adrià brothers is a 40-course tour de force of cutting-edge gastronomy across six different dining spaces. A meal takes 3½ hours all up and includes customised cocktail pairings (you can order additional drinks). There’s a minimum of two diners; reserve months in advance. A €100 deposit is required upon booking.
oTickets TAPAS, GASTRONOMY€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 292 42 50; www.ticketsbar.es; Avinguda del Paral·lel 164; tapas €3-26; h7-11.30pm Tue-Fri, 1-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Sat, closed Aug; mParal·lel)
A flamboyant affair playing with circus images and theatre lights, this is one of the sizzling tickets in the restaurant world, a Michelin-starred tapas bar opened by Ferran Adrià, of the legendary (since closed) El Bulli, and his brother Albert. Bookings are only taken online two months in advance, but you can try calling for last-minute cancellations.
Martínez SPANISH€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 106 60 52; www.martinezbarcelona.com; Carretera de Miramar 38; mains €21.50-32; h1-11pm; g21, jTeleférico del Puerto)
With a fabulous panorama over the city and port, Martínez is a standout among the lacklustre dining options atop Montjuïc. On warm days, head to the outdoor terrace for its signature rice and paella dishes (€38 to €62 for two). There are also oysters, calamari, fresh market fish and other seafood hits, plus jamón and grilled meat dishes.
Alkímia CATALAN€€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 207 61 15; www.alkimia.cat; Ronda de Sant Antoni 41; mains €22-42; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Fri; mUniversitat)
Inside the Fàbrica Moritz brewery, culinary alchemist Jordi Vilà creates refined Catalan dishes with a twist (oyster-stuffed courgette flowers; roast royal hare with beetroot; candied lemon soufflé with pickled plum ice cream) that have earned him a Michelin star. Set menus range from €98 to €155.
BEST CAFÉS IN THE BARRI GÒTIC
Some of Barcelona’s most atmospheric cafes lie hidden in the old cobbled lanes of Barri Gòtic. Our favourite spots for a pick-me-up include:
Salterio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 50 28; Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call 4; hnoon-1am; W; mJaume I) A wonderfully photogenic candlelit spot tucked down a tiny lane in El Call, Salterio serves Turkish coffee, authentic mint teas and snacks amid stone walls, incense and ambient Middle Eastern music. If hunger strikes, try the sardo (grilled flat-bread covered with pesto, cheese or other toppings).
Čaj Chai (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 301 95 92; www.cajchai.com; Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call 12; h10.30am-10pm; mJaume I) Inspired by Prague’s bohemian tearooms, this bright and buzzing cafe in the heart of the old Jewish quarter is a tea connoisseur’s paradise. Čaj Chai stocks around 200 teas from China, India, Korea, Japan, Nepal, Morocco and beyond. It’s a much-loved local haunt.
Caelum (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 69 93; Carrer de la Palla 8; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun; W; mLiceu) Centuries of heavenly gastronomic tradition from across Spain are concentrated in this exquisite medieval space in the heart of the city. The upstairs cafe is a dainty setting for decadent cakes and pastries, while descending into the underground chamber with its stone walls and flickering candles is like stepping into the Middle Ages.
Cafè de l’Òpera (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 317 75 85; www.cafeoperabcn.com; La Rambla 74; h8am-2am; W; mLiceu) Opposite the Gran Teatre del Liceu is La Rambla’s most traditional cafe. Operating since 1929 and still popular with opera-goers, it is pleasant enough for an early evening libation or, in the morning, coffee and croissants. Head upstairs for a seat overlooking the busy boulevard, and try the house speciality, the cafè de l’Òpera (coffee with chocolate mousse).
La Granja (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %93 302 69 75; Carrer dels Banys Nous 4; h9am-9pm; W; mJaume I) This long-running cafe serves up thick, rich cups of chocolate, in varying formats, but it doesn’t make its own churros. Buy them a few doors down at Xurreria and bring them here for the perfect combo of churros dipped in chocolate. Also worth a look is the section of Roman wall visible at the back.
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