Jaca
POP 12,000 / ELEV 820M
A gateway to the western valleys of the Aragonese Pyrenees, Jaca has a compact and attractive old town, dotted with remnants of its past as the 11th-century capital of the nascent Aragón kingdom and a strongpoint in Spain’s 16th-century lines of defence against possible French invasion.
Summer tourism in July and August, and après-ski funsters on winter weekends, keep a lively atmosphere going well into the night.
1Sights
Catedral de San Pedro CATHEDRAL
(Plaza de la Catedral; 
h11am-1.30pm & 4.15-8pm)
Jaca’s 11th-century cathedral is a formidable building, its imposing exterior typical of the sturdy stone architecture of northern Aragón. It was once more gracefully French Romanesque in style, but Gothic and Renaissance additions and alterations in the 15th and 16th centuries bequeathed a hybrid look. The interior retains some fine features, in particular the northwest-corner chapel dedicated to Santa Orosia, the city’s patron saint, whose martyrdom is depicted in a series of mysterious murals.
oMuseo Diocesano MUSEUM
(www.diocesisdejaca.org; Plaza de la Catedral; adult/senior & student/child €6/4.50/3; h10am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun Sep-Jun)
Jaca’s excellent Museo Diocesano (set in rooms surrounding the cathedral cloister and accessed from inside the cathedral) is a kind of mini equivalent of Barcelona’s Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Its speciality is a collection of Romanesque and Gothic art rescued from Jaca diocese churches, and the highlight is a recreation of the church in Bagüés village whose late-11th-century murals amount to one of the finest sets of European Romanesque painting.
Ciudadela FORTRESS
(Citadel; www.ciudadeladejaca.es; Avenida del Primer Viernes de Mayo; adult/senior & student/child €6/5/4, incl Museo de Miniaturas Militares €10/8/5; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Jul-Sep, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Oct & Dec-May)
Jaca’s large, star-shaped citadel, built in the 1590s to defend against a possible French invasion, is one of only two extant pentagonal fortresses in Europe. Visits are by 40-minute guided tour (in Spanish, with information sheets in other languages), hourly during the opening hours.
Museo de Miniaturas Militares MUSEUM
(Museum of Military Miniatures; www.museominiaturasjaca.es; Avenida del Primer Viernes de Mayo, Ciudadela; adult/senior & student/child €6/5/4; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Jul-Sep, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun Oct & Dec-May)
The thought of a model soldier museum might not sound particularly enticing to anyone over the age of 10, but think again. The 3D battle scenes displayed in these interconnecting rooms inside the Ciudadela offer a pictorial history lesson, from neolithic spear-throwers to Franco’s fascist tanks.
zFestivals & Events
Festival Folklórico de los Pirineos MUSIC, DANCE
(www.festivaljaca.es; hJul/Aug)
This folklore festival, held in late July or early August in odd-numbered years, provides a week of local, national and international music, dance and crafts, in several organised venues and on the streets.
4Sleeping
Hostal París HOSTAL€
(
%974 36 10 20; www.hostalparisjaca.com; Plaza de San Pedro 5; s/d with shared bathroom €32/42; 
W)
Close to the cathedral, this friendly, central option has high ceilings, creaky, wooden floorboards, spotless, ample-sized rooms and smart, shared bathrooms. Many rooms overlook the square. A minimal breakfast (€3) is available.
Hotel Jaqués HOTEL€€
(%974 35 64 24; www.hoteljaques.com; Calle Unión Jaquesa 4; s €40-50, d €60-70; 
aW)
A solid midrange choice with a faint Regency air to its decor, smart modern bathrooms and a good cafe. It also runs several spick-and-span, recently opened apartment rooms, around the corner in Calle Obispo, at similar prices.
oHotel Barosse BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(%974 36 05 82; www.barosse.com; Calle Estiras 4, Barós; incl breakfast s €110-159, d €138-199; W)
In the quiet hamlet of Barós, 2km south of Jaca, Hotel Barosse has five individually styled rooms with lovely attention to detail, from exposed stone walls and splashes of colour to fine bathroom packages of goodies. A cosy sitting and reading room, pretty garden, spa, honesty bar and fine Pyrenees views all help make this a delightful base for exploring the region.
The owners, José and Gustavo, are wonderful hosts, and prepare terrific dinners (€26 to €28) on request. It’s adults only.
5Eating
oLa Tasca de Ana TAPAS€
(Calle de Ramiro I 3; tapas €1.80-3.50, raciones €2.50-14; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30pm-midnight Jul-Sep, 7-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-Jun; W)
One of Aragón’s best tapas bars – hence the crowds – La Tasca has tempting options lined up along the bar, more choices cooked to order and a well-priced list of local wines. Check out its tapas mas solicitados (most popular orders) listed on the blackboard. Top contenders include the tostada (toast) topped with goat’s cheese, trigueros (asparagus) and a hard-boiled egg.
oLa Terapia TAPAS, ARGENTINE€
(%649 088874; Calle Mayor 31; tapas & raciones €3-12, mains €8-24; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Lively Terapia offers varied options for different appetites – traditional tapas or raciones of croquettes, ham, sausages or seafood, a variety of salads, fried fish, Argentine meat grills – but arguably the stars of the show are the scrumptious empanadas (Argentine pastry pies) with fillings like ham, cheese, tomato and basil, or setas (wild mushrooms) with tangy Cabrales cheese.
Restaurante Asador Biarritz ARAGONESE€€
(%974 36 16 32; www.restaurantebiarritz.com; Avenida Primer Viernes de Mayo 12; mains €16-28, set menus €15-55; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Thu-Tue)
The Biarritz is frequently completo (full) with happy eaters enjoying its classic Aragonese cuisine specialising in good grilled meats and fish, its range of set menus at different prices, and its setting on Jaca’s leafy main avenue, with a big outdoor section. Reservations advisable.
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 36 00 98; www.jaca.es; Plaza de San Pedro 11-13; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun)
8Getting There & Away
From the central bus station (%974 35 50 60; Plaza Biscós), six or more Alosa (www.avanzabus.com) buses go daily to Huesca (€7.80, 1¼ hours) and Zaragoza (€16, 2½ hours). La Burundesa (www.laburundesa.com) runs one or two daily services to Pamplona (€7.80, 1¾ hours).
Twice-daily trains go south to Huesca (€8.25, two hours) and Zaragoza (€15, 3¼ hours) and north to Canfranc-Estación (€2.80, 35 minutes).
Valle del Aragón
Aragón takes its name from the Río Aragón which runs south from the Pyrenees towards Jaca before veering west to Navarra. The river lent its name to the small Christian county born here in the 8th century AD, and as the county grew into a powerful kingdom it carried the name with it. Today the N330 road runs north up the Valle del Aragón between impressive mountains from Jaca, heading for 1640m-high Puerto de Somport pass on the French border.
Apart from being a route to France’s Vallée d’Aspe (with the 8.6km-long Somport tunnel now providing an alternative to the pass), the Valle del Aragón is home to the extraordinary Canfranc train station and the Astún and Candanchú ski resorts, and offers plenty of scenic walks.
There are beautiful summer day walks in side valleys including the Valle de Izas east of Canfranc-Estación; the tourist office has information. Walking right up to the Collado de Izas pass and back is an undertaking of about seven hours with 1000m of ascent and descent, but there are numerous shorter options. (And you can drive the first 2km up an unpaved road as far as the Fuerte de Coll de Ladrones, an abandoned fort.)
Estación Internacional de Canfranc ARCHITECTURE
(Canfranc International Station; Canfranc-Estación)
The magnificent Modernista structure of Canfranc station stands as a monument to a trans-Pyrenean railway that has lain idle for nearly 50 years. With its 250m-long main building, the station opened in 1928, housing customs and immigration on the then-new line between Zaragoza and Pau (in France). It saw plenty of traffic until 1970, when a bridge collapsed on the French side, never (as yet) to be repaired – although the two governments are now discussing reopening the line.
Railway nuts and lovers of decaying grandeur will enjoy the 40-minute guided tours (€4) given by Canfranc tourist office (%974 37 31 41; www.canfranc.es; Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Canfranc-Estación; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 4.30-7.30pm Tue, 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Wed-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun Sep-Jun), which are the only way of getting inside the now sadly dilapidated grand edifice. The tours – in Spanish, with English and French translation available via free audio guide – go at various times daily (except Monday from September to June): check the tourist office website for schedules. Reservations are essential.
8Getting There & Away
The Mancomunidad Alto Valle del Aragón (www.mavaragon.es) runs five daily buses from Jaca bus station to Astún (€2.90, 35 minutes) and back, calling at Canfranc-Estación (€2.05, 20 minutes), Candanchú and the Puerto de Somport.
Two daily trains run to Canfranc-Estación from Zaragoza (€16, four hours) via Huesca (€11, 2¾ hours) and Jaca (€2.80, 35 minutes), and back.
FRANCE
French Nouvelle-Aquitaine regional buses (http://car.aquitaine.fr) run at least four times daily from Canfranc-Estación to Bedous in the Vallée d’Aspe, France (€6.40, one hour), and back, connecting at Bedous with trains to/from Oloron Sainte Marie and Pau. A combined bus-and-train ticket from Canfranc to Pau (2¼ hours) costs €16.
Valle de Tena
The Valle de Tena, watered by the Río Gállego, runs north into the mountains from the town of Sabiñánigo, with the A136 road reaching the Puerto del Portalet pass (1794m), gateway to France’s Vallée d’Ossau.
The upper Valle de Tena is home to two ski resorts: Panticosa (small) and Formigal (large, with installations strung up the mountainsides for most of the 6km to the Portalet border). Between the two resorts stands the pretty, and much older, stone-built village of Sallent de Gállego, a good base for hikes. From Panticosa an 8km road winds up through the Garganta del Escalar gorge to the recently modernised Baños de Panticosa hot-springs resort.
Resort Balneario de Panticosa SPA
(%974 48 71 61; www.panticosa.com; Baños de Panticosa; 30min adult/child €36/12; hnoon-8pm Jun-Oct & Christmas-Semana Santa; 
c)
There has been a bathhouse here since the 1690s, although ‘taking the waters’ didn’t become truly popular until the mid-19th century. Today the Balneario is a luxurious, recently remodelled spa resort, with two four-star hotels and several restaurants. You don’t have to be staying here to enjoy the facilities, and all sorts of circuits, massages, treatments and packages are offered. The main zona de aguas (waters zone) includes five different pools, a sauna, Turkish bath, ice igloo, solarium and more.
Respomuso Hike WALKING
A fine day hike, avoiding terrain cluttered with ski installations, follows the well-named Río Aguas Limpias (Clean Waters River) up from Sallent de Gállego to the Embalse de Respomuso, a picturesque reservoir at 2200m, surrounded by high peaks. The walk, part of the GR11 long-distance trail, is 12km up from Sallent (about 3½ hours, with 900m of ascent), and 12km back.
You can make it less demanding by driving up to the Asador La Sarra restaurant at the far end of Embalse de la Sarra, which saves about 3.5km and one hour in each direction. If you’d rather stay up in the mountains, there’s dorm accommodation at the Refugio de Respomuso (%974 33 75 56; www.alberguesyrefugiosdearagon.com; Embalse de Respomuso; dm adult/child €17/9, breakfast €6, lunch or dinner €16; hmid-Mar–mid-Dec), though this can be full in busy seasons.
Pirineos Sur CULTURAL
(www.pirineos-sur.es; hJul)
Sallent de Gállego and nearby Lanuza village host this terrific world-music festival, with nightly concerts through the second half of July. Recent editions have featured artists such as flamenco stars Diego El Cigala and Duquende, Puerto Rican rapper Residente and west African musicians Youssou N’Dour and Toumani Diabaté.
Hotel Balaitus HOTEL€
(%974 48 80 59; http://hotelbalaitus.com; Calle Francia 18, Sallent de Gállego; s €39-52, d €52-76; W)
An 18th-century building in the centre of Sallent village, the Balaitus has a lot of history and creaking wooden floors to go with it. Rooms are mostly quite prettily decorated, if not large, and there’s a cheerful lounge-bar serving platos combinados, bocadillos and salads, plus a walled front garden that’s great for summer evenings.
8Getting There & Away
From Jaca, one or two daily buses wind over to Panticosa village (€5.35, one hour), Sallent de Gállego (€6.25, 1¼ hours) and Formigal (€6.75, 1½ hours). There is also bus service to these villages from Zaragoza and Huesca by Alosa (www.avanzabus.com).
Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido
This is where the Spanish Pyrenees really take your breath away. The park extends south from a dragon’s back of limestone peaks along the French border: a southeastward spur from this includes Monte Perdido (3355m), the third-highest peak in the Pyrenees. Deep valleys slice down from the high ground. Most were carved by glaciers and at their heads lie bowl-like glacial circos (cirques) backed by spectacular curtain walls of rock. Chief among the valleys are Ordesa (west), Añisclo (south), Escuaín (southeast) and Pineta (east).
The wonderful scenery of plunging canyons, towering cliffs, thick forests, rivers, waterfalls, snow peaks, mountain lakes and high-level glaciers makes this arguably the place to head for if you can manage only one destination in the Spanish Pyrenees.
2Activities
The Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido is fantastic walking country.
The best weather and walking conditions are generally from mid-June to early September. Lower-level routes are practicable for longer, but once there’s snow on the ground, easy paths become difficult and harder ones become dangerous.
It’s always advisable to carry a good map such as Editorial Alpina’s Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido (1:25,000). Park information offices give out diagrams of the park’s four sectors (Ordesa, Añisclo, Escuaín and Pineta) with walking route descriptions, and will give further information verbally (most staff speak English and/or other languages as well as Spanish).
oCola de Caballo WALKING
This very popular route heads 8km (with 500m ascent) along the Valle de Ordesa from Pradera de Ordesa, between soaring cliffs and passing numerous waterfalls, to the Circo de Soaso, a rock amphitheatre decorated by the Cola de Caballo (Horsetail) waterfall, where Monte Perdido towers far above. Return the way you came. The 16km round trip takes about 5½ hours plus stops.
oFaja de Pelay WALKING
An initially more demanding but more spectacular variation on the standard Cola de Caballo walk. From Pradera de Ordesa you zig-zag up the Senda de los Cazadores (Hunters’ Path), gaining 600m altitude in a remorseless 1½ hours. Then it’s gently downhill almost the whole rest of the way, beginning with a spectacular high-level path leading to the Cola de Caballo waterfall.
From the waterfall, return to Pradera along the main valley path. Total time is about 6½ hours plus stops.
Refugio de Góriz & Monte Perdido WALKING
Fit walkers can climb the Circo de Soaso above the Cola de Caballo by a series of steep switchbacks to reach the Refugio de Góriz in 1½ to two hours. The refuge is the usual starting point for ascents of many high peaks including Monte Perdido, and is one of the great crossroads of the Pyrenees.
Be warned, Monte Perdido is a serious undertaking: most of the year the route from the refuge is completely or partly covered in snow and requires mountaineering skills, crampons and ice axes. Even when snow-free (roughly mid-July to some time in September in a typical year), it’s still a very demanding hike requiring fitness and mountain-hiking experience. You ascend from 2200m to 3355m, with a long, very steep section over loose stones – from Góriz, it’s approximately four hours up and three hours back down, and you should start early.
Cañón de Añisclo WALKING
This gaping wound in the earth’s fabric is 500m deep in parts. A trail up the canyon from Puente de San Úrbez bridge, beside the HU631, leads in about 2½ hours (450m ascent) to La Ripareta, where the Barranco de la Pardina joins the Río Bellós, and in a further two hours (300m more ascent) to another confluence below the powerful Fuen Blanca waterfall.
oBalcón de Pineta WALKING
This challenging but exhilarating day hike (about seven hours round trip) begins at the car park near the west end of the Pineta valley and ascends 1300m (getting steadily steeper as you go) to the Balcón. This barren, vaguely plateau-like area far above the treeline provides fantastic panoramas back along the valley and also close-up views of the glacier-laden north side of Monte Perdido.
Miradores de Revilla BIRDWATCHING
Thanks to a feeding site established nearby by conservationists, there are high chances of seeing the rare lammergeier (bearded vulture), as well as Egyptian and griffon vultures and golden eagles, from the Miradores de Revilla observation points, which are reached by an easy 1.25km path from Revilla village, 12km by a winding paved road off the A138.
4Sleeping
There’s just one overnight mountain refuge, Refugio de Góriz, within the park, but there is plenty of accommodation – campgrounds, walkers’ refuges, hostels, hostales, holiday apartments, casas rurales, hotels – in towns, villages and the countryside surrounding the park including in Torla, Broto, Aínsa, Escalona, Bielsa and the Valle de Bujaruelo. Some accommodation closes down from about November to March.
Refugio de Góriz HOSTEL€
(%974 34 12 01; www.goriz.es; dm €17)
One of the Spanish Pyrenees’ star refuges sits in the shadow of Monte Perdido, for which it acts as an unofficial base camp. It sits at the crossroads of an enviable network of paths. The 72 bunks are fully occupied throughout July and August and on June and September weekends, so reserve ahead for those times.
The quickest hike in (about four hours) is from Pradera de Ordesa via the Circo de Soaso. Camping is permitted outside between sunset and sunrise only. Open and staffed year-round, the refuge has an all-day bar, and offers picnic lunches as well as serving breakfast (€6) and dinner (€17).
8Information
The national park’s main information offices (opening hours can vary):
Bielsa (%974 50 10 43; Casa Larraga, Plaza Mayor, Bielsa; h8am-3pm & 4.15-7pm Easter-Oct, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3.15-6pm Nov-Easter)
Centro de Visitantes de Torla (%974 48 64 72; Avenida Ordesa, Torla; h9am-2pm & 4.15-7pm Easter-Oct, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3.15-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter)
Centro de Visitantes de Tella (Calle La Iglesia, Tella; h9am-2pm & 4.15-7pm Easter-Oct, 9am-2pm & 3.15-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter)
Escalona (%974 50 51 31; Calle Mayor, Escalona; h8am-3pm & 4.15-7pm Easter-Oct, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3.15-6pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter)
Escuaín (h9am-2pm & 3-7pm)
8Getting There & Away
The main jumping-off points for the park are the village of Torla in the west, with easy access to the Valle de Ordesa; the small town of Aínsa, southeast of the park, from which you can drive to the Añisclo and Escuaín sectors; and Bielsa village in the east, at the mouth of the Pineta valley, 34km north up the A138 from Aínsa. All three places can be reached by bus.
From Torla it’s an 8km drive or walk to Pradera de Ordesa, starting point of several fine walks in the Valle de Ordesa. Private vehicles may not go beyond Pradera de Ordesa at any time and are banned from the Valle de Ordesa completely during Easter week, July, August and early September. During these periods a shuttle bus (one way/return adult €3/4.50, child free) runs between Torla’s Centro de Visitantes and Pradera de Ordesa. A maximum of 1800 people are allowed in the Ordesa sector of the park at any one time.
From Escalona, 11km north of Aínsa on the A138, a minor paved road, the HU631, heads northwest across to Sarvisé, 7km south of Torla. This road crosses the park’s southern tip, with a narrow, sinuous section winding up the dramatic Bellos valley and giving access to walks in the spectacular Añisclo canyon (the upper reaches of the Bellos valley). During Easter week, July, August and early September, a one-way system is enforced on part of the road, with only northwestward traffic allowed on the 13km stretch between Puyarruego and the Buerba turn-off. Southeastward traffic uses the roughly parallel, more southerly road through Buerba.
Torla
POP 220 / ELEV 1040M
The pre-eminent gateway to the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, Torla is a lovely alpine-style village of slate-roofed stone houses. The setting is delightful, with the village houses clustered above Río Ara and the national park’s mountains forming an awe-inspiring backdrop. It gets overrun by tourists in July and August.
2Activities
Guías de Torla ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 48 64 22; www.guiasdetorla.com; Calle Francia; half-day canyoning per person from €46)
The Ordesa-Monte Perdido national park and its surroundings are rich in adventure opportunities, including canyoning, with many exhilarating jumping-sliding-abseiling routes down the area’s gorges. Guías de Torla is a well-established professional company offering a variety of guided canyoning trips from Easter to October, for all skill levels.
4Sleeping
Edelweiss Hotel HOTEL€
(%974 48 61 73; www.edelweisshotelordesa.es; Avenida Ordesa 1; s/d incl breakfast €44/60; hEaster–mid-Nov; 
pW)
Rooms here may lack decorative flair, but they’re perfectly comfy and many of them have panoramic terraces or balconies. Staff are notably welcoming and helpful, prices are good, the breakfast is ample, and it’s conveniently located beside the road to Ordesa with a reasonable amount of (free) parking.
Hotel Villa de Torla HOTEL€
(%974 48 61 56; www.hotelvilladetorla.com; Plaza Aragón 1; s €45-50, d €58-75, tr €85-95; 
iW
s)
The rooms here are tidy – some are stylish in whites and creams with patterned wallpaper, others have floral bedspreads and look a little old-fashioned. An undoubted highlight is the swimming pool, from where there are lovely views. A generous buffet breakfast (€6) is available.
Hotel Villa Russell HOTEL€€
(%974 48 67 70; www.hotelvillarussell.com; Calle Francia; incl breakfast s €63, d €88-99, q €165; hEaster-Nov; pW)
Villa Russell has rooms that won’t win a style contest, but they’re enormous and come with sofas, microwaves and hydromassage showers. There is also a similarly well-kitted-out family apartment on the top floor. Room rates rise about €25 in August. On-site parking (€8.80) is available.
5Eating
La Brecha ARAGONESE€
(%974 48 62 21; www.lucienbriet.com; Calle Francia; set menus €16; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Semana Santa & Jun-Nov; W)
Home-style local dishes like roast lamb with breaded potatoes, veal escalope and longaniza sausages are the speciality of this bustling upstairs restaurant. The menú includes wine but do give the homemade pacharán (sloe liqueur, said to help with digestion) a try.
Café Mondarruego SPANISH€
(Calle Francia 44; dishes €6.50-12; h8am-11pm)
Doing the simple things well, this friendly cafe-restaurant-bar serves up just what most hungry hikers are looking for – filling, well-prepared food at good prices. Generous platos combinados based around the likes of pork chops or chicken escalope are the mainstay, but there are also good salads and burgers, and raciones such as ham croquettes or chicken brochette.
Restaurante El Duende ARAGONESE€€
(%974 48 60 32; www.restauranteelduende.com; Calle de la Iglesia; mains €13-26, set menus €22-32; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-10.30pm Feb-Dec; W)
Encased in a 19th-century building made from local stone, Duende (Elf) is the finest dining in town, serving top-class grilled meats and creative desserts. Tables are in high demand so reserve ahead.
8Information
The village has a couple of ATMs, and shops selling outdoor equipment, food and maps.
8Getting There & Away
Alosa (%902 21 07 00; www.avanzabus.com) operates one or two daily buses to/from Sabiñánigo (€4.25, one hour) with bus and rail connections to/from Jaca and Zaragoza. There are one or two daily services to/from Aínsa (€4.35, one hour) and, from July to October, Barbastro (€10, two hours)
Valle de Bujaruelo
North of Torla and just outside the western boundary of the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido, the pretty Valle de Bujaruelo has scenery rivalling parts of the national park, and is another excellent walking area.
Private vehicles can drive as far as San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, 10km north of Torla. It’s also perfectly feasible to hike in from Torla, following the GR11 trail north from the Puente de los Navarros.
Many good day walks start from San Nicolás de Bujaruelo, including easy options into the Valle de Otal (west) and Valle de Ordiso (northwest) or a slightly harder circuit of about six hours combining the two. The beautiful mountain lake Ibón de Bernatuara is about 3½ hours north from San Nicolás (with an ascent of 975m), and 2½ hours back down.
Eastward, it’s a climb of 4.5km (about 3½ hours, with 950m ascent) from San Nicolás to the Puerto de Bujaruelo pass on the French border, and three hours back down – or you continue in to France – either down to Gavarnie village in about three hours or over to the Refuge des Sarradets (about 1½ hours).
Camping Valle de Bujaruelo CAMPGROUND€
(%974 48 63 48; www.campingvalledebujaruelo.com; per adult/tent/car €4.90/5/5, d/tr/q with shared bathroom €30/45/58, bungalow €80-105; hApr-Oct; pW
#)
This campground, 7km north from Torla, has a lovely setting and well-maintained facilities. As well as good shady tent sites, there are wooden bungalows for up to four people with kitchen and bathroom, and ‘refugio’ rooms for two to five. Plus a decent restaurant and a shop.
Aínsa
POP 1640 / ELEV 560M
A masterpiece hewn from uneven stone, the beautiful medieval hilltop village of Aínsa is one of Aragón’s gems, albeit one that’s half-swamped by tourism in high summer. From its perch, you’ll have commanding panoramas of the mountains, particularly the great rock bastion of La Peña Montañesa. The modern part of Aínsa, down below, is spread around a busy crossroads and two rivers flowing down from the Pyrenees: the Ara and Cinca.
1Sights
oPlaza Mayor PLAZA
Old Aínsa’s broad, cobbled main plaza, 80m long and lined by handsome stone arcades and houses, is one of Spain’s loveliest. It was created as a market place and fairground back in the 12th and 13th centuries and the architecture has changed little since then – even if the buzz today comes from the tables and sunshades of the plaza’s numerous restaurants instead of medieval market stalls.
Castillo CASTLE
(
F)
The castle off the northwest end of Plaza Mayor mostly dates from the 16th and 17th centuries, though the Torre del Homenaje (keep) is from the 11th century; there are good views from the walls.
The castle’s two surviving towers house moderately interesting museums: the Eco Museo (%974 50 05 97; www.quebrantahuesos.org; Castillo; €4; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm May-Oct, 11am-2pm Mon, Thu & Fri, 11am-2pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun Mar, Apr, Nov & Dec; c) 
S on Pyrenean fauna in the Torre del Homenaje; and the Espacio del Geoparque de Sobrarbe (www.geoparquepirineos.com; Castillo; h9.30am-2pm & 4.30-7pm) F with displays on the region’s intriguing geology.
Iglesia de Santa María CHURCH
(tower €1; h7.30am-8pm Jul-Sep, 4-8pm Oct-Jun)
Aínsa’s main church bears all the hallmarks of unadulterated Romanesque. Few embellishments mark its thick, bare walls, which date from the 11th century. Don’t leave without exploring the beautiful little crypt and funny little trapezoid cloister, and climbing the bell tower.
4Sleeping
Some cute, olde-worlde lodgings are to be found on and around Plaza Mayor, but most accommodation is down in the newer part of town.
Albergue Mora de Nuei HOSTEL€
(%974 51 06 14; www.alberguemoradenuei.com; Calle del Portal de Abajo 2; dm/d €20/55; hFeb-Dec; W)
At the lower end of the old town, this fine place is one of Aragón’s best hostels. The colourful rooms and dorms – for two, four or 10 – all have their own bathrooms. There’s good, inexpensive food and 40 craft beers served in the bar (which has a pleasant terrace) and a regular calendar of live music and other events.
oHotel Los Siete Reyes BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%974 50 06 81; www.lossietereyes.com; Plaza Mayor; r €90-120; aW)
Hotel Sánchez HOTEL€€
(%974 50 00 14; www.hotelsanchez.com; Avenida Sobrarbe 10; s €41-71, d €51-105, ste €84-140; paW)
This popular, well-run place in the lower part of town offers tidy medium-size ‘classic’ rooms in yellow, white and light pine, and a newer ‘design zone’ of spacious, comfortable suites and apartments with contemporary features from silver-and-grey colour schemes to graduated lighting to different wood finishes. Shower pressure is superb.
Eating options are bright and excellent, too. The classy restaurant specialises in fish and meat BBQ grills, while the busy cafeteria runs from tempting pinchos displayed on the bar to salads, pizzas and platos combinados (most between €6 and €9).
Casa de San Martín HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%974 50 31 05; www.casadesanmartin.com; San Martín de la Solana; s/d from €132/165; hMar-Jan; paW)
A stunning rural retreat with spectacular panoramas over a deserted valley, this tall, stone, 18th-century house has been beautifully renovated and the rooms are temples to good taste, without being overdone. Meals (set menus €25) are exceptional. To find it, head 16km west from Aínsa on the N260, then 5km up an unpaved road from the ‘San Martín de la Solana’ sign.
AÍNSA, ADVENTURE CAPITAL
With the Pyrenees and all their subsidiary ranges and valleys on its doorstep, Aínsa is a natural centre for all kinds of adventure activities including mountain biking, canyoning, vie ferrate, rafting and kayaking, with trips offered by several companies.
The valleys, hills, canyons and mountains of the Sobrarbe district around Aínsa are a mountain-biking paradise, with some 500km of off-road tracks, many of them waymarked for bikers. The Zona Zero project (http://bttpirineo.com) provides masses of information for mountain bikers and brings together bike-friendly accommodation, repair shops, guides and bike-transport services. You can rent enduro mountain bikes (per half-/full day €40/60), with discounts for multiday hires, at T-T Aventura (%974 51 00 24; www.ttaventura.com; Avenida Pirenaica 10; hoffice 9am-2pm & 4-9pm).
InterSport (Avenida Sobrarbe 4; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm & 4-9pm Sun) sells most things you could need for outdoor activities, from boots to backpacks, helmets and sleeping mats. It’s good on maps, too.
5Eating
L’Alfil TAPAS€
(Travesera de la Iglesia; raciones €6.50-10; h11am-4pm & 7pm-midnight May-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Apr)
This pretty little cafe-bar, with floral accompaniment to its outside tables, is in a side street opposite the church. Its raciones are more creative than you’ll find elsewhere, from casseroles of wild mushrooms, venison or snails to duck pâté and cured wild boar. It’s also a good spot to the try the locally celebrated sausage longaniza de Graus.
Bodegón de Mallacán ARAGONESE€€
(%974 50 09 77; Plaza Mayor 6; mains €17-21; h9am-4.30pm & 7-11pm)
You won’t want to wave adiós to Aragón without tasting the slow-roasted local lamb, known as ternasco, and Bodegón de Mallacán on Aínsa’s ancient plaza is a fine place to try it. Duck, wild boar, beef, partridge, frogs’ legs and venison pâté are other classics you can enjoy here.
oRestaurante Callizo CONTEMPORARY SPANISH€€€
(%974 50 03 85; www.restaurantecallizo.es; Plaza Mayor; set menus adult/child €50/25; h12.45-3pm & 8.45-10pm Wed-Mon)
Callizo succeeds in marrying Aragonese tradition with modern gastronomic theatre and the result is not just a meal but a true eating experience. Dishes include Río Cinca trout, partridge and veal tournedos, all in imaginative preparations. It’s essential to reserve (possible on the website) and to arrive on time!
8Information
Municipal Tourist Office (%974 50 07 67; www.villadeainsa.com; Avenida Ordesa 5; h10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm) In the new town down the hill.
Oficina Comarcal de Turismo (District Tourist Office; %974 50 05 12; www.turismosobrarbe.com; Torre Nordeste, Plaza del Castillo 1; h9.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7pm) Inside the Castillo.
8Getting There & Away
Alosa (%902 21 07 00; www.avanzabus.com) runs one or two daily buses to/from Barbastro (€5.85, one hour) and Torla (€4.35, one hour). For Huesca, Zaragoza or Barcelona, change at Barbastro.
Autocares Bergua (%974 50 06 01; www.autocaresbergua.com) heads to/from Bielsa (€5, one hour) once daily in July and August, and on Monday, Wednesday and Friday in other months.
The bus stop is at the south end of the Río Ara bridge.
Benasque
POP 1535 / ELEV 1150M
Aragón’s northeastern corner is crammed with the highest and arguably the shapeliest peaks in the Pyrenees, and the likeable little town of Benasque is a perfectly sited gateway to the high valleys. Even in high summer, these epic mountains are fringed with ice. Much of the region is protected as the Parque Natural Posets-Maladeta.
Benasque’s neat, alpine-style, stone-and-slate architecture appears fairly modern, but the town goes back a long way: its church has Romanesque origins and the Palacio de los Condes de Ribagorza on Calle Mayor dates from the 16th century.
2Activities
The Benasque region is a true adventure playground. As well as hiking and climbing in the valleys and mountains, there’s good skiing at Cerler, a few kilometres northeast of town; paragliding at Castejón de Sos, 14km south; and rafting at Campo, 33km south. Several agencies in Benasque can organise all these activities for you.
The region offers walkers almost limitless options, especially in the upper Benasque valley and its side valleys. The best season is from about May to October. Depending on snow cover, low-level routes may be practicable for longer, and higher-level ones for shorter periods.
Compañía de Guías Valle de Benasque ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 55 16 90; www.guiasbenasque.com; Avenida de Francia, Edificio Els Ibons; hoffice 10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm)
This company has more than 20 years’ experience and offers a vast range of activities and courses for both summer and winter, including hiking, climbing, canyoning and ski touring. It also rents all the necessary kit for these activities.
4Sleeping
Hotel Avenida HOTEL€
(%974 55 11 26; www.hotelavenidabenasque.es; Avenida de los Tilos 14; incl breakfast s €39-46, d €62-74; W)
Rooms are small but clean in this centrally located, typical ski-lodge-type hotel with a woody decor, gabled roof and helpful staff. It has a restaurant, plus triple and quadruple room options for families and/or groups.
oHotel Aneto HOTEL€€
(%974 55 10 61; www.hotelesvalero.com; Avenida de Francia 4; s/d incl breakfast from €73/106; hJun–mid-Sep & Christmas-Easter; paWs)
The streamlined, super-modern Aneto is a cut above your cosy ski lodge with a wide selection of rooms, from the snazzy to the positively luxurious. Bonuses include a small indoor pool, a great lobby bar and filling breakfasts.
Hotel Vallibierna HOTEL€€
(%974 55 17 23; www.hotelvallibiernabenasque.com; Paseo Campalets; s/d incl breakfast €50/75; pW)
Set a little away from the central hubbub, this former private home is a peaceful retreat with wood beams, stone or colourfully painted walls, and a few hunting trophies, redolent with the scent of pines from the tall trees in its garden. With good breakfasts and free parking, it’s an excellent find.
Rates rise in the first three weeks of August. The hotel closes in November and for a few weeks after Easter.
5Eating
El Veedor de Viandas SPANISH€€
(www.elveedordeviandas.com; Avenida Los Tilos 6; tapas €1.80, mains €8-13; hnoon-3.30pm & 6-11pm Thu-Tue; W)
A welcoming informal space combining a gourmet deli, wine shop, tapas bar and restaurant. Tapas and tostadas have innovative toppings such as solomillo (tenderloin) with red pepper and cheese, or duck breast with red berries. Plus there are salads, carpaccios, egg-based dishes, belly-filling cazuelitas (mini-stews) and excellent cakes too!
Mesón de Benás ARAGONESE, BRASSERIE€€
(%692 189033; Calle Mayor 47; mains €7-20, set menus €15-22; h1-4pm & 8-11pm)
A very good and popular stone-walled restaurant with river views from its upstairs room, specialising in home-style mountain fare with an emphasis on barbecued meats and good-value set menus.
WHITE WATER, BLUE SKIES
On the Río Ésera 33km south of Benasque, Campo village is one of the Pyrenees’ top rafting centres (best from April to June). Operators are dotted along the N260 road through Campo: a good choice is Sin Fronteras (%974 55 01 77; www.sinfronterasadventure.com; Carretera Benasque 1, Campo; half-day rafting €35-45; h10am-7pm Easter-Sep; c), by the roundabout at the south end of town, which offers a slew of summer activities including canoeing, and canyoning in the nearby Aigüeta de Barbaruéns canyon, as well as rafting – all with child-friendly route options..
Fourteen kilometres south of Benasque, Castejón de Sos, with its Liri take-off point at 2300m, is one of Spain’s top paragliding centres. It’s flyable year-round. Several paragliding schools and shops are dotted along the main street. Tandem flights of 20 to 30 minutes cost around €70.
Restaurante El Fogaril ARAGONESE€€
(%974 55 16 12; Calle Mayor 5; mains €14-26, set menus €24; h1-4pm & 8.30-11pm; W)
Part of the popular Hotel Ciria, El Fogaril serves outstanding Aragonese mountain fare. Specialities include wood-oven-roasted meats, game such as venison, partridge and wild boar, and typical local stews with beans and other bases.
It also offers bocadillos (baguette-like sandwiches), salads and generous platos combinados (combined plates, priced €10 to €18) if you’re peckish between main meals or after something that is relatively light and quick.
7Shopping
Barrabés SPORTS & OUTDOORS
(www.barrabes.com; Avenida de Francia; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm)
This really is the one-stop sports store in town, selling equipment and sportswear for just about every activity you can think of. It also carries a good range of guides and maps, and has an online shopping option.
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 55 12 89; www.turismobenasque.com; Calle San Pedro; h9.30am-1pm & 4.30-7.45pm daily Jul-Sep, Tue-Sat Oct-Jun)
8Getting There & Away
Alosa (www.avanzabus.com) runs two buses daily (one on Sunday) to/from Huesca (€13, 2¾ hours) via Castejón de Sos, Campo and Barbastro.
Upper Benasque Valley & the Maladeta Massif
Northeast of Benasque, the A139 continues up the valley of the Río Ésera (known as the Valle de Benasque) for 13km to a dead end 1.5km short of the mountain ridgeline that forms the French border. The side valleys off this upper Benasque valley provide the area’s most spectacular scenery and best walks and climbs. Just before the A139’s end, a 6km unpaved road forks east, following the upper Ésera past the Hospital de Benasque hotel to a parking area at La Besurta, the starting point for several good routes. The Maladeta massif – a line of high, glacier-fringed peaks culminating in Aneto (3404m), the Pyrenees’ highest summit – rises to the south of La Besurta. West of the A139 rises the Pyrenees’ second-highest peak, Posets (3375m).
2Activities
Information on walking routes, including maps, is available at Benasque tourist office and at the starting point of the summer bus service at Vado del Hospital. Editorial Alpina’s map Parque Natural Posets Maladeta (1:25,000) is a very good investment.
Ibón d’Escarpinosa Walk WALKING
One of the best day hikes on the Valle de Benasque’s west side, this route leads up the verdant Estós valley to two mountain lakes, the tiny Ibonet de Batisielles and the slightly bigger Ibón d’Escarpinosa, with a backdrop of jagged high peaks. It’s 6km each way, with 700m ascent and descent (about five hours round trip plus stops).
To start, head 3km up the A139 from Benasque then go left up the signposted Valle d’Estós road for 700m, to a parking area where the signed trail starts. For the first 3km or so you’re following the GR11 on its route to the Refugio de Estós.
PLAN D’AIGUALLUT WALKS
Surely one of the world’s most perfect picnic spots, the Plan d’Aiguallut is a broad grassy meadow under the gaze of the Pyrenees’ highest peak, Aneto, with half a dozen meandering mountain streams uniting to tumble over its lip as the powerful Cascada d’Aiguallut waterfall. Fortunately the 45-minute walk required to reach this beautiful spot from La Besurta is sufficient to save it from getting overrun.
Numerous variations and extensions of the walk enable a great full day’s outing on clear, generally well-signed paths. En route from La Besurta you can detour up to the Refugio de la Renclusa (%974 34 46 46; www.alberguesyrefugiosdearagon.com; dm €17, breakfast €6, lunch or dinner €16), then approach the Plan d’Aiguallut via the little Collado de Renclusa pass (1½ hours one way). From the Plan, it’s a 2.5km walk east (one hour one way, with 200m ascent) up to Ibón de Coll de Toro lake; or you can head south-southeast up the lovely Barrancs valley, below Aneto’s east flank, to Ibón de Barrancs lake (2km one way, about 1½ hours, with 300m ascent) or even the Collado de Salenques pass (4km, about three hours, 750m of ascent).
4Sleeping
Hospital de Benasque HOTEL€€
(%974 55 20 12; www.llanosdelhospital.com; Llanos del Hospital; d incl breakfast €60-128; hDec-Oct; pW)
In the Ésera valley’s beautiful upper reaches, 2km off the A139 towards La Besurta, this 55-room mountain lodge borders on the luxurious. ‘Special’ rooms are newer and larger, with a cosier, more old-fashioned feel than the Standards, but all are good and comfortable. The hotel has a spa, bar and restaurant and is also a cross-country-skiing centre.
8Getting There & Away
From about mid-September to the end of June, you can drive as far as La Besurta; there’s no public transport. From July to mid-September, private vehicles (unless going to the Hospital de Benasque) must be parked at Vado del Hospital, 1.5km off the A319 along the La Besurta road. From here a shuttle bus (one way/return €2.80/5) runs the remaining 4.5km to La Besurta and back. A few times a day the bus starts its run in Benasque (one way/return €7.90/12, 45 minutes). Benasque tourist office has schedules.
Alquézar
POP 226 / ELEV 610M
Like so many Aragonese villages, Alquézar jumps out at you unexpectedly. You’ll barely guess its magnificence until you’re virtually inside its tight labyrinth of streets above the steep cliffs of the plunging Río Vero gorge. Beauty aside, Alquézar is Spain’s capital of canyoning, with several companies offering to take you jumping, sliding and abseiling down the numerous dramatic canyons carved into the surrounding Sierra de Guara, a sparsely populated limestone massif in the Pyrenees foothills.
1Sights
Colegiata de Santa María MONASTERY, CASTLE
(€3; h11am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30 Mar-Dec, Sat & Sun only Jan & Feb)
Alquézar is crowned by this large castle-monastery. Originally built as an alcázar (fortress) by the Moors in the 9th century, it was subsequently conquered and replaced by a fortified Augustinian monastery in 1099. Some of the columns in its delicate cloister are crowned by carved capitals depicting animals, flowers and grapes as well as biblical scenes, and the cloister walls are covered with captivating murals. On the upper level is a museum of sacred art.
2Activities
Canyoning runs from about April to October, but the main season for easy and medium-level adventures is mid-June to mid-September. Small-group prices are typically €45 to €50 per person, with around four hours’ actual canyon descent. The fee covers gear, guide and insurance, but not transport (you need your own vehicle or a taxi for nearly all routes).
Guías Boira ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 31 89 74; www.guiasboira.com; Paseo San Hipólito)
Guías Boira is a specialist in Pyrenean peak ascents as well as canyoning, vie ferrate and rafting. Offers two-day packages with two canyons or one canyon and either rafting, climbing or a via ferrata (per person from €90).
Vertientes ADVENTURE SPORTS
(%974 31 83 54; www.vertientesaventura.com; Paseo San Hipólito)
Offers canyoning (per person €46 to €52), a half-day of abseiling (rápel), via ferrata (per person €39 to €48) or climbing (per person €58 to €68).
4Sleeping
Albergue Rural de Guara HOSTEL€
(%974 31 83 96; www.albergueruraldeguara.com; Calle Pilaseras; dm/d €16/48; W)
This cheerfully run hostel is perched up above the village with fine views of the surrounds. There are cosy double rooms as well as bunk dorms for six or eight. All have their own bathroom. Staff can arrange picnic lunches (€8). Breakfast costs €5.50.
Hotel Maribel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%974 31 89 79; www.hotelmaribel.es; Barrio Arrabal; d incl breakfast €120-150; paW)
This boutique hotel has plenty of charm and, while the decor won’t be to everyone’s taste (very tasteful contemporary art is interspersed with dashes of kitsch), the nine rooms are supremely comfortable (all with a Jacuzzi, for example). If there’s no-one at reception, try the nearby Restaurante Casa Gervasio.
Hotel Villa de Alquézar HOTEL€€
(%974 31 84 16; www.villadealquezar.com; Calle Pedro Arenal Cavero 12; incl breakfast s €68-84, d €75-125; hFeb–mid-Dec; paWs)
This is a lovely larger hotel with plenty of style in its 34 airy rooms; there are period touches throughout, and the 12m swimming pool is a distinct plus in the summer heat. The most expensive (top floor) rooms are large and have wonderful covered balconies – perfect for watching the sun set over town with a glass of Somontano wine.
5Eating
L’Artica CAFE€
(%974 31 88 69; www.panaderialartica.com; Calle Iglesia 1; pizza €10-16, light dishes €5-11; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat & Sun; W)
Split over two floors, with terraces hanging over the village’s spectacular gorge, L’Artica is decked out bistro-style with creamy furniture and cabinets displaying musical instruments. The downstairs is more cafe-like, the upstairs more restaurant-ish, but both are lovely perches, offering the same good fare from tostadas (toast slices with toppings), egg dishes and salads to burgers and biscuity pizzas.
oCasa Pardina ARAGONESE€€
(%660 399472; www.casapardina.com; Calle Medio; set menus €29-38; h1.30-3.30pm & 8.30-10.30pm Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun only Nov-Mar)
A very special restaurant where the food exudes contemporary creativity and the setting is all soothing stonework, twinkling chandeliers and views that could have sprung from the pages of National Geographic. The menu is subtle yet classy with dishes including oxtail with chestnuts, and stewed venison with dates and honey. Reservations recommended.
8Information
Tourist Office (%974 31 89 40; www.alquezar.org; Paseo San Hipólito; h9.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Fri-Tue Sep-May, daily Jun-Aug) Runs Spanish-language village tours (€4) twice daily and offers audio guides (€6) in Spanish, French, Dutch and German.
8Getting There & Away
One bus to Barbastro (€2.75, 40 minutes) departs from Alquézar Monday to Friday at 7.30am during school terms and 9.25am in school holidays, starting back from Barbastro at 2.30pm year-round.
Somontano Wine Region
Somontano is Aragón’s most prestigious wine-growing region. Centred on the town of Barbastro, the Somontano DO (Denominación de Origen) has more than 30 wineries producing reds, whites and rosés from 15 different local and other grape varieties. Nearly all the wineries are in the countryside outside the town, which isn’t a particularly pretty place, although the older part around the late-Gothic cathedral and the Paseo del Coso boulevard is pleasant enough. More charming Alquézar, 26km northwest of Barbastro, can also be used as a base for winery visits.
Barbastro’s tourist office (%974 30 83 50; http://turismosomontano.es; Avenida de la Merced 64, Barbastro; h10am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat) and its website, as well as the websites for the Ruta del Vino Somontano (www.rutadelvinosomontano.com) and DO Somontano (http://dosomontano.com), have plenty of information on the various wineries that can be visited for sales, tours and/or tastings. For anything more than a call at a winery’s shop, you should ring ahead to arrange a time – the tourist office will help you do this if you turn up in person. Three wineries – Viñas del Vero, its neighbour Bodegas Pirineos on the A1232 road towards Alquézar, and Bodegas Otto Bestué, 8km north of Barbastro on the A138 towards Aínsa – offer free tastings in their shops.
Viñas del Vero WINE
(%974 30 22 16; www.vinasdelvero.es; Carretera Naval, Km 3.7; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
Aragón’s best-known winery has handsome premises 3km out of Barbastro on the A1232 towards Alquézar, and offers free tastings in its spacious shop where you can inspect its full range of wines, priced from €5 to €68-plus for the top-of-the-line Blecua.
Winery tours (by reservation) start at €7 per person for a 1¾-hour visit including tasting of three wines.
Hotel San Ramón BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%974 31 28 25; www.hotelsanramonsomontano.com; Calle Academia Cerbuna 2; incl breakfast s €75, d €90-125, ste from €144; paW)
Centrally located near the cathedral, the San Ramón is easily the best lodging in town – a handsome, century-old, Modernista building transformed a few years ago with 18 stylish, comfortable rooms all equipped with hydromassage showers or Jacuzzis. It also has a spa, a bar and one of Barbastro’s best restaurants.
8Getting There & Away
Barbastro’s bus station (Plaza Aragón 2) is centrally located and has several daily bus services that run to/from Huesca (€4.60, 50 minutes), Zaragoza (€12, two to 2½ hours), Lleida (€6.25, 1½ hours) and Barcelona (€14, three to 3½ hours), plus one or two to/from Aínsa (€5.85, one hour).
