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RÍAS BAIXAS

Long, wide beaches and relatively calm (if cold) waters have made the Rías Baixas (Castilian: Rías Bajas) Galicia’s most popular holiday destination. The Rías de Muros y Noia, de Arousa, de Pontevedra and de Vigo – Galicia’s four longest rías (coastal inlets) – boast way more towns, villages, hotels and restaurants than other stretches of the Galician coast, which obscures some of their natural beauty. Still, the mix of pretty villages, sandy beaches and good eating options, especially the wonderful seafood, keep most people happy. Throw in lovely old Pontevedra, the big-city feel of lively Vigo, the quaint albariño wine capital Cambados and trips to offshore islands including the magnificent Illas Cíes, and you have a tempting travel cocktail.

There’s a vast array of accommodation of all types for all budgets, but it’s still a great idea to reserve ahead for the second half of July or August. At other times room prices often dip dramatically.

Ría de Arousa

Cambados

POP 7000

The capital of the albariño wine country, the pretty little ría-side town of Cambados makes an excellent base for touring the Rías Baixas. Its old streets are lined by stone architecture dotted with inviting taverns and eateries. Cambados is actually a fusion of three medieval villages – Fefiñáns at the north end of town (centred on beautiful, broad Praza de Fefiñáns), Cambados proper in the middle, and the fishing quarter Santo Tomé in the south.

1Sights

You can visit and taste at 10 different wineries in the Cambados municipality (in the town and up to 6km outside – see www.cambadosenoturismo.com) and more than 20 others within about 12km (see www.rutadelvinoriasbaixas.com). The best-known wineries are outside town, but there are two small and interesting ones on broad Praza de Fefiñáns at the northern end of town. Cambados’ tourist office (%986 52 07 86; www.cambados.es; Edificio Exposalnés, Paseo da Calzada; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 10.30am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat Oct-May) has details on all visitable wineries. It’s always advisable to call ahead before making a trip out to a winery to check that someone will be available for visitors.

oGil Armada HISTORIC BUILDING, WINERY

(%660 078252; http://bodegagilarmada.com; Praza de Fefiñáns; tours €7-15; htours noon, 1pm, 6pm, 7pm Jun-Sep, 12.30pm & 5.30pm Oct-May, closed Sun afternoon)

Gil Armada is a small family-run winery housed in the handsome 17th-century Pazo de Fefiñáns. A variety of absorbing guided tours are offered: the basic one-hour version covers the main rooms of the historic house (with some fascinating antiques and art), its distillery and its vast gardens with 150-year-old vines and an ancient woodland. The more expensive options (up to two hours) include wine-tasting and a visit to the panoramic tower. It’s advisable to call ahead between June and September.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes WINERY

(%986 54 22 04; www.fefinanes.com; Praza de Fefiñáns; visit €3, incl tasting 1/2 wines €6/10, minimum per group €30/40; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri, closed Jan)

This small establishment, one of two wineries in the handsome, 17th-century Pazo de Fefiñáns, produces some quality, garlanded albariño wines that you can buy for €12 upwards. Guides speak fluent English.

Igrexa de Santa Mariña Dozo CHURCH

(Rúa do Castro; h24hr) F

This ruined 15th-century church, beside the wine museum, is now roofless but still has its four semicircular roof arches intact, and is surrounded by a well-kept cemetery with elaborate graves – all particularly picturesque when floodlit after dark.

Martín Códax WINERY

(%986 52 60 40; www.martincodax.com; Rúa Burgáns 91, Vilariño; tours incl tasting of 1/2/3/4 wines €3/5/10/15, incl vineyard & tasting of 3/4 wines €15/25; htours 11am, noon, 1pm, 5.30pm & 7pm Mon-Fri, 11am, noon & 1pm Sat Jun-Sep, shorter hours rest of year; p)

Galicia’s best-known winery, a 2.5km drive east of Cambados, offers a variety of tours from 45 minutes to three hours, including tasting of up to four wines. Some include vineyard visits. It’s essential to call ahead.

zFestivals & Events

Festa do Albariño WINE

(http://fiestadelalbarino.com; hAug)

Concerts, fireworks, exhibitions and the awarding of prizes for the year’s best wines accompany the consumption of huge quantities of wine and tapas during the Festa do Albariño, on the first Sunday of August and the four preceding days.

4Sleeping

Hotel O Lagar HOTEL€

(%986 52 08 07; www.hotelolagar.com; Rúa Pontevedra 14; s €40, d €50-60; pW)

A fine budget choice, Hotel O Lagar has 16 well-sized, sparkling clean rooms, all with bath-tubs, and its own bar-cafe serving good, inexpensive raciones. Try for rooms 107, 108, 207 or 208, which look out on a pretty little plaza and church.

oQuinta de San Amaro BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%986 74 89 38; www.quintadesanamaro.com; Rúa San Amaro 6, Meaño; incl breakfast s €95-130, d €110-190; paWs)

A dream base for enjoying the Rías Baixas, unique Quinta de San Amaro sits surrounded by vineyards 12km south of Cambados. A converted and extended farmhouse with an inspired design combining traditional and contemporary elements, it unites 14 different rooms with a similar variety of common spaces, including a panoramic pool and (top-class) restaurant, and lovely gardens with a solarium in a converted hórreo!

Guests are invited on free visits to a local winery (with tasting), service is first-class (many staff speak English), and an important part of the magic is the panoramic restaurant (%986 74 89 38; mains €14-20; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm, closed Mon-Thu mid-Oct–Mar), one of the area’s very best, serving delicious updates on traditional Galician cuisine (it’s open to all; reservations recommended). Groups of four or more can do cooking classes – Galician, Mexican, Japanese – in a lovely big kitchen for €50 per person, including a full lunch or dinner based on what you’ve prepared.

Pazo A Capitana HOTEL€€

(%986 52 05 13, 679 282259; www.pazoacapitana.com; Rúa Sabugueiro 46; incl breakfast s €59-70, d €80-100; hclosed mid-Dec–Jan; paW)

This 17th-century country house on the edge of town is a lovely sleeping option, with stately rooms, expansive gardens and an on-site winery with four century-old stone presses.

Hotel Real Ribadomar BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(Hotel Real Cambados; %986 52 44 04; http://hotelrealcambados.com; Rúa Real 8; s €55-90, d €70-125; aW)

A charmingly renovated central townhouse with pretty rooms combining exposed stone and wallpaper, fresh white linen on soft beds, gleaming bathrooms and homey touches, including ribbon-wrapped towels and baskets of potpourri.

5Eating

Seafood is top of the bill here (scallops are a particular Cambados speciality) and there are endless varieties of albariño to complement it. Pedestrian-friendly Rúas Príncipe and Real, the main streets of the Fefiñáns part of town, have plenty of eateries that mostly serve up decent food at decent prices; there are more options in lanes leading off them.

Restaurante Ribadomar GALICIAN€€

(www.ribadomar.es; Rúa Valle Inclán 17; mains €13-18, menús €24-30; h1.30-4pm & 9-11pm, closed Sun-Thu evenings Oct-Jun)

For something more upscale than taverns, you can get a great Galician meal at family-run Restaurante Ribadomar, with dishes such as sole with scallops or chuletón de ternera (giant beef chop), in a relatively formal setting with original paintings and sculptures.

8Getting There & Away

The bus station is on Avenida de Galicia, roughly in the middle of town, 600m south of Praza de Fefiñáns. Monbus runs to/from Santiago de Compostela (€5.60, 1½ hours) at least twice daily and to/from O Grove (€1.55, 30 minutes) at least three times. Autocares Cuiña (www.autocarescuina.com) runs to/from Pontevedra (€3.15, one hour) at least three times daily.

WORTH A TRIP

CASTRO DE BAROñA

The Ría de Muros y Noia, the most northerly of the four main Rías Baixas, is home to a couple of lively old towns, Muros and Noia, and some good beaches on the south shore, where you’ll also find Galicia’s most spectacularly sited prehistoric settlement, the Castro de Baroña (h24hr) F. The castro sits poised majestically on a wind-blasted headland overlooking the Atlantic waves, 4km southwest of Porto do Son. Park near Cafe-Bar Castro and take the rocky 600m path down to the ruins. Clearly the exposed location was chosen for its defensive qualities: a moat and two stone walls protect its access across a small isthmus. Inside are the excavated bases of about 20 round stone buildings. The settlement was abandoned in the 1st century AD.

Pontevedra

POP 62,000

Pontevedra is an inviting, small riverside city that combines history, culture and style into a lively base for exploring the Rías Baixas. The interlocking lanes and plazas of the compact Old Town are abuzz with shops, markets, cafes and tapas bars.

Back in the 16th century, Pontevedra was Galicia’s biggest city and an important port. Columbus’ flagship, the Santa María, was built here, and indeed some locals are convinced that Columbus himself was not Genoese as is commonly believed, but was really a Pontevedra nobleman called Pedro Madruga, who for obscure reasons faked his own death and took on a new identity.

Pontevedra

1Top Sights

1 Edificio SarmientoD2

1Sights

2Basílica de Santa María a MaiorA1

3Igrexa de San FranciscoC3

4Praza da FerreríaC3

5Praza da LeñaC2

6Ruínas de San DomingosA3

7Santuario da Virxe PeregrinaC4

8Sexto EdificioD2

4Sleeping

9Hotel RúasC2

10Parador Casa del BarónB1

11Slow City HostelA2

5Eating

12Casa Fidel O PulpeiroB1

13Loaira XantarC2

Restaurante Rúas(see 9)

7Shopping

14Mercado MunicipalC1

1Sights

An excellent museum and some unusual old churches are well worth devoting time to, but really it’s the Old Town as a whole that is Pontevedra’s star turn. It’s a pleasure just to wander round its narrow, mainly pedestrianised streets linking more than a dozen plazas. Praza da Leña (MAP GOOGLE MAP) is a particularly quaint nook.

Museo de Pontevedra MUSEUM

(%986 80 41 00; www.museo.depo.es)

Pontevedra’s eclectic museum is scattered over five city-centre buildings. At research time, two were closed for restoration, though the newest and most interesting sections were open: the recently built Sexto Edificio (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rúa de Padre Amoedo; h10am-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) Fand the adjoining Edificio Sarmiento (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rúa Sarmiento; h10am-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) Fin a renovated 18th-century Jesuit college, plus the Ruínas de San Domingos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Gran Vía de Montero Ríos; h10am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun May-Sep, to 7.30pm Tue-Sat Mar, Apr & Oct, closed Nov-Feb) Fa ruined 14th-century church housing an intriguing collection of heraldic shields, sepulchres and other medieval carvings.

The Edificio Sarmiento houses an absorbing collection ranging over Galician Sargadelos ceramics, modern art (including one work each by Picasso, Miró and Dalí), and prehistoric Galician gold jewellery, petroglyphs and carvings. The Sexto Edificio has three floors of Galician and Spanish art from the 14th to 20th centuries – some interesting exhibits, though you won’t find any really big names.

Basílica de Santa María a Maior CHURCH

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Praza de Alonso de Fonseca; h10am-1.30pm & 5-9pm, except during Mass)

Pontevedra’s most impressive church is a beautiful, mainly late-Gothic affair, with some plateresque and Portuguese Manueline influences, built by Pontevedra’s sailors’ guild in the 16th century. Busts of Christopher Columbus and Hernán Cortés flank the rosette window on the elaborate western facade, a plateresque work by the Flemish Cornelis de Holanda and the Portuguese João Nobre.

Praza da Ferrería SQUARE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP); Praza da Ferrería has the best selection of cafes in town and is a hub of Pontevedra social life. It’s overlooked by the Igrexa de San Francisco (MAP GOOGLE MAP; h7.30am-12.45pm & 5.30-6.45pm), said to have been founded in the 13th century by St Francis of Assisi when on pilgrimage to Santiago (the main portico remains from the original church). Just off the plaza, you can’t miss the distinctive curved facade of the Santuario da Virxe Peregrina (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Praza da Peregrina; h9am-2pm & 4-9pm), an 18th-century caprice with a distinctly Portuguese flavour.

4Sleeping

Hotel Rúas HOTEL€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %986 84 64 16; www.hotelruas.net; Rúa de Figueroa 35; s €34-44, d €44-62; aiW)

The rooms are pleasant, with shiny wooden floors, unfussy furnishings and large, sparkling bathrooms (though some showers are small), and some have nice plaza views – excellent value for this absolutely central Old Town location. Reception is amiable and the hotel has both a good restaurant and a cafe that is one of the town’s most popular breakfast spots.

Slow City Hostel HOSTEL€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %631 062896; www.slowcityhostelpontevedra.com; Rúa da Amargura 5; dm/d €17.50/40; hclosed Nov; W)

Run by a welcoming, well-travelled local couple, Slow City has one spacious dorm with six solid and comfy bunks, and two spotless, all-white private doubles. With an excellent Old Town location, a good kitchen and free tea, coffee and fruit, it’s a great option for budget travellers, whether following the Camino Portugués or not.

Parador Casa del Barón HISTORIC HOTEL€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %986 85 58 00; www.parador.es; Rúa do Barón 19; d €80-163; paW)

This elegant, refurbished 16th-century palace is equipped throughout with antique-style furniture and historical art, and has a lovely little garden beside the cafe and restaurant terrace. Rooms vary in size and those facing the street may get late-night noise from weekend partiers.

5Eating

Casa Fidel O Pulpeiro SEAFOOD€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Rúa de San Nicolás 7; raciones €6-14; h11am-3pm & 7pm-midnight Thu-Tue)

For more than 50 years, Fidel’s has been serving up perfectly done pulpo á feira, Galicia’s quintessential octopus dish of tender tentacle slices with paprika and olive oil (ask for some cachelos, sliced boiled potatoes, to accompany it). But this simple, spotless eatery with pine tables and white paper tablecloths also offers plenty of shellfish, empanadas and omelettes if you fancy something different.

Restaurante Rúas GALICIAN€€

(MAP; Rúa de Figueroa 35; mains €12-20; h11am-4pm & 8pm-midnight)

A reliable option for tasty and satisfying meat, fish, seafood, salads and egg dishes, served without pretension. They have tables out under the Praza da Leña arches as well an upstairs dining room.

Loaira Xantar GALICIAN€€

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Praza da Leña 2; raciones €6-14; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm, closed Sun evening; W)

With tables out on the lovely little plaza and in the upstairs dining room, this is a fine spot for excellent Galician specialities with a creative touch, such as prawn-and-vegetable tempura or spider-crab croquettes. Local pork and fish, tempting desserts, and good Galician wines too. Portions are medium-sized.

8Information

Turismo de Pontevedra (%986 09 08 90; www.visit-pontevedra.gal; Praza da Verdura; h9.30am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Jun-Oct, shorter hr rest of year) The helpful city tourist office has a convenient central location.

Turismo Rías Baixas (%886 21 17 00; http://turismoriasbaixas.com; Praza de Santa María; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2.30pm & 4.30-9pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, shorter hr rest of year) Information on all of Pontevedra province.

PRAIA A LANZADA

The O Grove–Sanxenxo area, at the end of the peninsula separating the Rías de Arousa and Pontevedra, is Galicia’s biggest magnet for Spanish summer beach tourism. The towns are not pretty, but there are certainly some fine, if far from deserted, beaches.

Dune-backed Praia A Lanzada (p) sweeps a spectacular 2.3km along the west side of the low-lying isthmus leading to O Grove. It’s Galicia’s most splendid stretch of sand, and enticingly natural, but not exactly deserted, as the mammoth car parks attest.

8Getting There & Away

The bus station (%986 85 24 08; www.autobusespontevedra.com; Rúa da Estación) is about 1.5km southeast of the Old Town. Monbus goes at least 18 times daily to Vigo (€2.50, 30 minutes) and 14 or more times to Santiago de Compostela (€5.85, one hour). Buses also run to Sanxenxo, O Grove, Cambados, Padrón, Bueu, Tui, Ourense and Lugo.

Pontevedra’s train station (Rúa Eduardo Pondal), across the roundabout from the bus station, has roughly hourly services, from 7am or 8am to 10pm or 11pm, to Santiago de Compostela (€6.10 to €7.35, 35 minutes to one hour), A Coruña (€14 to €16, one to 1¾ hours) and Vigo (€3.20 to €3.65, 15 to 30 minutes).

Ría de Pontevedra

The small, old city of Pontevedra sits at the head of the ría and is one of the Rías Baixas’ most appealing destinations. The shores of the ría are quite built up until you get towards their outer ends where you’ll find some decent beaches. On the north shore, the Sanxenxo area, together with O Grove a little further north, forms Galicia’s busiest summer beach tourism zone.

Combarro

POP 1270

Near Pontevedra on the ría’s north shore, Combarro has a particularly quaint old quarter that is worth a meal stop on your way through. A jumble of hórreos (traditional stone grain stores on stilts) stands right on the waterside, with a smattering of waterside restaurants, and behind them is a web of crooked lanes (some of them hewn directly out of the rock bed) dotted with cruceiros (stone crucifixes; a traditional Galician art form). It can, however, get extremely busy in high summer.

5Eating

Bodega O Bocoi SEAFOOD€€

(%986 77 11 42; Rúa do Mar 20; dishes €8-18, rice dishes for 2 €35-45)

You won’t beat O Bocoi for perfectly prepared fresh seafood – the octopus, shellfish a la plancha (hotplate-grilled) and fried fish are all delicious, but you’re unlikely to be disappointed with anything you order. And they do large, fresh salads too.

There’s a choice between sitting in the tavern section with two little stone-walled rooms, or the bright, check-cloth dining room with picture windows looking out on the ría.

Illa de Ons

POP 67

In summer you can get away from urban civilisation by hopping on a boat to vehicle-free Illa de Ons at the mouth of the Ría de Pontevedra. Part of the Parque Nacional de las Islas Atlánticas de Galicia, the island is 5.6km long with one tiny village, several sandy beaches, cliffs, ruins, four walking trails (circuits of between 1km and 8km) and rich bird life. You’re unlikely, however, to find it empty: up to 1800 visitors are allowed on the island at any one time. May, June and September are the most tranquil.

Camping Isla de Ons TENTED CAMP€

(%986 44 16 78; www.campingisladeons.com; site for own tent €7, rentals standard tent for 2/4/6 €30/60/90, superior tent €70/100/120, sleeping bag or mat €5)

This campground, reopened in 2016 after a revamp, is at Chan de Pólvora, about 600m west from the boat jetty. It accommodates over 200 people, and has tents and sleeping equipment to rent, including a glamping option of ‘superior’ tents with beds and bedding on a wooden platform. There’s also a cafeteria. Reserve ahead.

Casa Acuña HOSTAL€€

(%986 44 16 78; www.isladeons.net; d incl breakfast €65-90, apt for 2 €90-110, apt for 4 €120-160)

You can stay in bright rooms or apartments at Casa Acuña in Ons village. It has 20 rooms and six apartments: reservations strongly advised. The restaurant here serves prize-winning pulpo á feira.

8Getting There & Away

Three companies, Cruceros Rías Baixas (www.crucerosriasbaixas.com), Naviera Mar de Ons (www.mardeons.com) and Nabia Naviera (www.piratasdenabia.com), sail to Ons from Sanxenxo and Portonovo on the north side of the Ría de Pontevedra, and Bueu on the south side of the ría, during the summer season. There are weekend sailings from Sanxenxo and/or Portonovo from early to late June, then daily sailings until about late September (up to about 12 a day in July and August). The trip takes 45 minutes one way; return fares are €12 to €14 for adults and €6 or €7 for children. From Bueu there are sailings during Semana Santa, on weekends in May and daily from June to about late September.

Ría de Vigo

The far end of the ria’s north shore is one of the least populated and most scenic parts of the Rías Baixas. The peaceful village of Hío draws visitors for a look at Galicia’s most famous cruceiro (carved-stone wayside cross; a traditional Galician art form), the Cruceiro de Hío (p).

Several sandy beaches are within easy reach of Hío, including 800m-long Praia Areabrava, 3km north.

oCabo de Home AREA

(p)

From the hamlet of Donón, 4km west of Hío, the windswept, rocky cape Cabo de Home stretches 2.5km south. The cape is strung with walking trails and a few driveable tracks, and has three lighthouses, a couple of beaches and great views of the Illas Cíes. The partly excavated and wonderfully panoramic Iron Age castro Berobriga sits atop Monte Facho nearby, about a 20-minute uphill walk (part of the way runs along a castro-era stone-paved track).

4Sleeping

Hotel Doade HOTEL€€

(%986 32 83 02; www.hoteldoade.com; Rúa Baixada a Rioesteiro, Hío; d incl breakfast €55-77; hclosed Nov; paW)

Friendly, sparkling clean Doade has eight cosy, spacious rooms with fresh white linen and wood ceilings, and a good restaurant (mains €10-28, menú €10-20; h1-4.30pm & 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Nov) focusing on ría-fresh seafood, with oven-baked fish a speciality.

Vigo

POP 293,000

Depending on where you point your lens, Vigo is either a historic and cultured city or a gritty industrial port. Home to Europe’s largest fishing fleet, this is an axis of commerce in northern Spain. Yet its central areas are very walkable and full of intriguing nooks, and it’s the main gateway to the beautiful Illas Cíes. Above all, Vigo is a welcoming and confident city whose citizens really know how to enjoy life, especially after dark in the many buzzing tapas bars, restaurants and clubs.

The Casco Vello (Old Town) climbs uphill from the cruise-ship port; the heart of the modern city spreads east from here, with the parklike Praza de Compostela a welcome green space in its midst.

1Sights

At the heart of the intriguingly jumbled lanes of the Casco Vello is elegant Praza da Constitución, a perfect spot for a drink. Head down Rúa dos Cesteiros, with its quaint wicker shops, and you’ll reach the Old Town’s main church, the Concatedral de Santa María (Praza da Igrexa; h6-8pm Mon-Sat). Just below here is Rúa Pescadería, famed for its oyster shuckers.

Parque do Castro PARK

(c)

Head directly south (and uphill) from the Old Town for a wander in this verdant park with nearly 100 camellia trees. It’s a magnificent place to be when the sun is dropping into the ocean behind the Illas Cíes! You can look at the partly reconstructed Castro de Vigo (%986 81 02 60; Parque do Castro; c) Fdating back to the 3rd century BC, and poke around the hilltop Castelo do Castro, which formed part of Vigo’s defences, built under Felipe IV in the 17th century.

Museo de Arte Contemporánea de Vigo MUSEUM

(Marco; www.marcovigo.com; Rúa do Príncipe 54; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2.30pm Sun) F

Vigo is something of a modern art centre, with several museums and galleries to prove it. The Contemporary Art Museum is the number-one venue for thought-provoking exhibitions ranging from painting and sculpture to fashion and design.

Praia de Samil BEACH

(c)

A long swath of sandy beaches stretches southwest of the city. Best is 1.2km-long Praia de Samil, beginning about 5km from the city centre. It’s backed by a long promenade and has great views of the Illas Cíes. Several buses run from the city centre.

4Sleeping

Hotel Compostela HOTEL€

(%986 22 82 27; www.hcompostela.com; Rúa García Olloqui 5; s €44-82, d €48-82; pW)

Solidly comfy, spotlessly clean and reasonably spacious rooms make this efficient hotel near Praza de Compostela a sound choice. The cafe is handy for breakfast.

Hotel América HOTEL€€

(%986 43 89 22; http://hotelamerica-vigo.com; Rúa de Pablo Morillo 6; incl breakfast s €70-110, d €85-120; paiW)

The América gets a big thumbs-up for its well-equipped, spacious rooms with tasteful modern art and elegantly muted colour schemes; its friendly, efficient staff; and its quiet sidestreet location near the waterfront. Nearly all the 47 rooms are exterior-facing, and the breakfast is a large and excellent buffet, served on the roof terrace in summer.

oGran Hotel Nagari LUXURY HOTEL€€€

(%986 21 11 11; www.granhotelnagari.com; Praza de Compostela 21; d €105-230, incl buffet breakfast & spa €140-275; paWs)

Luxurious Nagari has a welcome personal feel to its high-class contemporary design and service. Beautiful rooms in silver, gold, white, grey and dark wood boast remote-controlled colour lighting, giant-headed showers (also colour-changing), high-tech coffee makers and big-screen smart TVs, and there’s a heated rooftop spa pool with fabulous views, plus a ground-floor restaurant and wine bar.

5Eating

Good restaurants, tapas bars and cafes are scattered all over the central area, and beyond. The narrow lanes of the Old Town, especially around Praza da Constitución, and the Praza de Compostela area all have plenty of options.

Rúa Pescadería SEAFOOD€

(Rúa das Ostras; oysters per dozen €12-15)

Short Rúa Pescadería, in the lower part of the Old Town, is jammed with people tucking into fresh seafood. From about 10am until 4pm (sometimes shorter hours in winter) you can buy oysters from the ostreras (shuckers) here, and sit down to eat them with a drink at one of the restaurants. Oysters and albariño wine are a traditional Vigo Sunday-morning hangover cure.

Othilio Bar GALICIAN€€

(%986 19 00 17; Rúa Luis Taboada 9; mains €10-19, lunch menú Mon-Fri €12.50; h1.30-3.30pm & 8-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 8pm-midnight Sat)

Friendly service by a busy team complements the expertly prepared fish, meat and shellfish (and desserts) here. It’s contemporary Galician fare – steak tartare, steamed hake with coconut milk – and the clean-lined design (light wood furnishings and stone walls) add to the experience. And it’s very popular, so try to book ahead, or get there early.

Follas Novas GALICIAN€€

(%986 22 93 06; Rúa de Serafín Avendaño 10; mains €12-19; h1-3.45pm & 8-11.45pm Mon-Sat)

It’s well worth venturing about 400m east of Praza de Compostela for the top-class fare at this small, unpretentious restaurant, but it’s advisable to reserve as it fills up super-fast. Attentive, friendly service complements the excellent preparations of quality fresh ingredients.

For a starter try some grilled shellfish or octopus or the saquitos rellenos (a mix of pork tenderloin, leeks and mushrooms in a sort of pancake bag) and follow up with any of the perfectly done fish or ternera (beef) options.

WORTH A TRIP

ILLAS CÍES

The Illas Cíes, three spectacularly beautiful islands that are home to some of Galicia’s most splendid beaches, are a 45-minute (14km) ferry ride from Vigo. This small archipelago forms a 6km breakwater that protects the Ría de Vigo from the Atlantic’s fury and is the main jewel of the Parque Nacional de las Islas Atlánticas de Galicia (Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park; www.iatlanticas.es) S.

The Cíes are perfect for lolling on sandy beaches, such as the 1km-long, lagoon-backed crescent of Praia das Rodas, or nudist Praia das Figueiras. The islands are also great for walking and exploring: trails such as the 7.4km-loop Ruta Monte Faro lead to some spectacular high lookouts. While the eastern coasts are relatively gentle, the western sides drop away dramatically in sheer cliffs.

The islands are vehicle-free and their nature pristine, but you won’t be alone. Up to 3000 visitors are allowed at one time and this limit is often reached in July and August.

To stay overnight on the islands you must camp at Camping Islas Cíes (%986 438 358; www.campingislascies.com; adult/child/tent €8.90/6.70/8.90, 2/4-person tent & bed rental per night €52/79; hSemana Santa, late May–late Sep). The campground has a restaurant and supermarket, and a capacity of 800 people – it often fills up in August. There’s a two-night minimum stay if you’re renting one of their tents.

Reservations can be made online or at the camping office (%986 43 83 58; Estación Marítima de Ría, Vigo; h8.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm). If you book online, you must show a printout of your reservation at the camping office in Vigo (if you are sailing from there), or when you board the ferry in Cangas or Bueu.

Getting There & Away

Public boats to the Cíes (round trip adult/child €18.50/6 in July and August, €16/free at other times) normally sail during Semana Santa (Easter week), on weekends and holidays in May, daily from June to late September, and on the first two weekends of October. Vigo is the main port of departure, but there are also sailings from Cangas and Baiona. At least four companies operate these routes. Reservations (always advisable) can normally be made online or by phone (with a credit card) or at the ports of departure.

Naviera Mar de Ons (%986 22 52 72; www.mardeons.es) runs at least four daily trips (10 in July and August) from Vigo’s Estación Marítima de Ría (Ferry Port; Rúa Cánovas del Castillo 3), four or more from Cangas, and four or more from Baiona; Nabia Naviera (%986 32 00 48; www.piratasdenabia.com) makes up to five trips a day from Vigo, three or four from Cangas and four (July to mid-September) from Baiona; Cruceros Rías Baixas (%678 491922; http://crucerosriasbaixas.com) runs three daily trips from Vigo, from July to mid-September; and Tours Rías Baixas (%680 733990; www.toursriasbaixas.com) has four sailings (July and August only) from Baiona.

6Drinking & Entertainment

For early evening drinks, the bars around Praza da Constitución in the Old Town and Praza de Compostela are enticing. From around 11pm the action shifts east to the music bars and pubs along Rúa de Areal and Rúa de Rosalía de Castro.

The Churruca district about 1km southeast of the Old Town is the epicentre of Vigo’s student and alternative nightlife and here you’ll find two of northern Spain’s top small-scale clubs for live rock and indie: La Iguana Club (www.facebook.com/laiguanaclub; Rúa de Churruca 14; hmidnight-5am Tue-Sat, opens earlier for live gigs) and La Fábrica de Chocolate Club (http://fabricadechocolateclub.com; Rúa Rogelio Abalde 22; hmidnight-4.30am Thu-Sat, from 10pm for live gigs), both hosting two or three gigs weekly.

8Information

Oficina de Turismo de Vigo (%986 22 47 57; www.turismodevigo.org; Estación Marítima de Ría, Rúa Cánovas del Castillo 3; h10am-5pm) Helpful tourist office in the ferry terminal.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Vigo’s Peinador airport (%986 26 82 00; www.aena.es), 9km east of the city centre, has direct flights to/from Madrid (Iberia and Air Europa), Barcelona (Vueling and Ryanair), Bilbao (Iberia), Málaga (Air Europa), and Bologna, Italy (Ryanair), plus seasonal Ryanair flights to/from Edinburgh, Dublin, Milan (Bergamo) and Bologna.

BUS

The bus station (%986 37 34 11; Avenida de Madrid 57) is 2km southeast of the Old Town. Monbus (www.monbus.es) makes several trips daily to all main Galician cities, including Pontevedra (€2.50, 30 minutes to one hour), Santiago de Compostela (€8, 1½ hours) and Ourense (€6.55, 1½ hours). ATSA (www.automovilesdetuy.es) serves Baiona, A Guarda and Tui. Avanza (www.avanzabus.com) runs to/from Madrid (€41 to €44, 7¼ to nine hours) at least four times daily. Autna (www.autna.com) runs at least twice daily to/from Porto (Portugal; €12, 2½ hours), with connections there for Lisbon.

TRAIN

Vigo has two stations. High-speed trains (10 or more daily) to/from Pontevedra (€3.65, 15 minutes), Santiago de Compostela (€11, 50 minutes to one hour) and A Coruña (€18, 1½ hours) use Vigo-Urzáiz station (Praza da Estación), 1km southeast of the Old Town. Vigo-Guixar station (Rúa Areal), 1km east of the Old Town, has five or more slower, slightly cheaper trains to the same cities, plus trains to Ourense (€12 to €23, 1½ to two hours, eight or more daily), Porto (Portugal, €15, 2½ hours, two daily) and other destinations including Ribadavia, Tui, Valença (Portugal), A Coruña, León and Madrid.

8Getting Around

Vitrasa (%986 29 16 00; www.vitrasa.es) runs city buses (€1.33 per ride). Bus 9A runs between the central Rúa Policarpo Sanz and the airport. The bus station and Vigo-Guixar train station are linked to the city centre by bus C2 (to/from Porta do Sol). Bus 4C runs between the bus station and Rúa Policarpo Sanz.

SOUTHWEST GALICIA

Galicia’s southwest corner is home to three towns that all make enjoyable stops on a circuit of the region or a journey to or from Portugal – the pretty fishing town A Guarda, the riverside cathedral town Tui, and the historic port and resort Baiona. The first two, set on the Río Miño which divides Galicia from Portugal, are particularly inviting.

Baiona

POP 2780

(Castilian: Bayona) is a popular resort with its own little place in history: the shining moment came on 1 March 1493, when one of Columbus’ small fleet, the Pinta, stopped in for supplies, bearing the remarkable news that the explorer had made it to the Indies (in fact, the West Indies). Then an important trading port, Baiona was later eclipsed by Vigo – but there’s still a hefty reminder of its former importance in the shape of the stout defensive walls, towers and gun batteries of Monte Boi promontory jutting out from the town’s waterfront.

A tangle of inviting lanes, with a handful of 16th- and 17th-century houses and chapels, makes up Baiona’s casco histórico (historic centre), behind the harbourfront road, Rúa Elduayen. Four kilometres east of town is the magnificent sweep of Praia América at Nigrán.

Fortaleza de Monterreal FORTRESS

(pedestrian/car €1/5 late-Jun–mid-Sep, rest of year free; h10am-10pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Sep-Jun; p)

You can’t miss the pine-covered promontory Monte Boi, dominated by the walls of the Fortaleza de Monterreal. The fortress was erected between the 11th and 17th centuries and its impregnable 3km circle of walls still stands, though there’s not much that’s old left inside it these days. An enticing 40-minute walking trail loops round the promontory’s rocky shoreline, which is broken up by a few small beaches.

Within the precinct today is a luxurious hotel, the Parador de Baiona (%986 35 50 00; www.parador.es; Monterreal; incl breakfast s €111-280, d €127-339; paWs) – have a drink on its cafe terrace, with fabulous views across the bay.

8Information

Get maps and more at the helpful tourist office (%986 68 70 67; www.turismodebaiona.com; Paseo da Ribeira; h10am-2pm & 4-9pm mid-May–mid-Sep, shorter hr rest of year) on the approach to the Monte Boi promontory.

8Getting There & Away

ATSA (www.automovilesdetuy.es) buses run to and from Vigo (€2.55, 45 minutes) every 30 or 60 minutes until 9pm. Just a couple a day go south to A Guarda (€3.25, 45 minutes). Catch buses at stops on the harbourfront road, Rúa Elduayen.

A Guarda

POP 6050

A fishing port just north of where the Río Miño spills into the Atlantic, A Guarda (Castilian: La Guardia) has a pretty harbour, some excellent seafood restaurants, a lovely hotel in an old convent and a cute if small casco antiguo (Old Town) of stone buildings centred on Praza do Reló. But its prize attraction is the hill Monte de Santa Trega, rising just outside of town. You can drive or walk up to its magnificently panoramic summit. Another fine walking path runs 3km south from A Guarda’s harbour along the coast to the heads of the Miño. The Camino Portugués de la Costa, a variant of the Camino Portugués pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela, comes through here, and all in all A Guarda is a bit of an unsung gem and an enjoyable place to hang out for a day or two.

1Sights

oMonte de Santa Trega HILL

(adult/child in vehicle Tue-Sun Feb-Dec €1/0.50, Mon & Jan free; pc)

A Guarda’s unique draw is the beautiful Monte de Santa Trega, whose 341m summit is a 4km drive or 2km uphill walk (the PRG122) from town. On the way up, stop to poke around the partly restored Iron Age Castro de Santa Trega. At the top, you’ll find a 16th-century chapel, an interesting small archaeological museum (h9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 10am-8pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-7pm Mar & Oct, 11am-5pm 2nd half Feb & Nov-Dec; p) Fon castro culture, a couple of cafes and souvenir stalls – and truly magnificent panoramas up the Miño, across to Portugal and out over the Atlantic.

Castelo de Santa Cruz FORT

(Avenida de Santo Domingo de Guzmán; h10am-9pm Apr-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-Mar; pc) F

This fort with four arrowhead-shaped corner bastions makes an interesting visit. It was built to defend A Guarda against the Portuguese in the 17th century.

4Sleeping & Eating

A Guarda is famed for its seafood, especially arroz con bogavante (rice with European lobster). A dozen seafood eateries line up facing the fishing harbour.

oHotel Convento de San Benito HISTORIC HOTEL€€

(%986 61 11 66; www.hotelsanbenito.es; Praza de San Bieito; s €48-61, d €51-99; hclosed mid-Dec–early Jan; paW)

A real treat, Hotel Convento de San Benito is housed in a 16th-century convent down near the harbour. Its 33 elegant rooms are romantic, individually decorated, comfortable and very well kept, and the whole place is like a mini-museum with fascinating antiques, paintings, sculptures, books and manuscripts at every turn.

The €7.50 breakfast is a great way to start the day, and the decanter of port placed in the main lounge for guests is a very nice way to end it!

Casa Chupa Ovos SEAFOOD€€

(%986 61 10 15; Rúa La Roda 24; mains & raciones €7-19; h1.45-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Thu-Tue)

It’s up a flight of steps from the harbourfront street Rúa do Porto, and it doesn’t have a sea view, but Chupa Ovos is a deservedly firm favourite with locals and visitors alike for its perfectly prepared fresh seafood, friendly and prompt service, bright atmosphere and good wines.

8Getting There & Away

ATSA (www.automovilesdetuy.es) buses run to/from Vigo (€6.05, 80 minutes) every 30 or 60 minutes until 7pm (fewer on weekends). Most go via Tui, but two or three daily go via Baiona. Buses stop on the main street through the town centre, Avenida de Galicia.

A ferry (%986 61 15 26, Portugal 258 092 564; www.cm-caminha.pt; car/motorcycle/bicycle incl driver or rider €3/2/1, vehicle or foot passenger €1; hhourly 10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-8.15pm Tue-Fri, from 11.30am Sat & Sun) crosses the Miño from Camposancos, 2km south of A Guarda, to Caminha, Portugal. Schedules may vary because of tides or seasonally. A Guarda’s tourist office (%986 61 45 46; www.turismoaguarda.es; Praza do Reló; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) has current schedules on its website. The nearest bridge is 13km upstream, near Goián.

Tui

POP 6125

Sitting above the broad Río Miño 25m inland, the border town of Tui (Castilian: Tuy) draws Portuguese and Spanish day trippers with its lively bar scene, tightly packed medieval centre and magnificent cathedral. It’s well worth strolling round the Old Town and down to the Paseo Fluvial, a riverside path that heads 1km down the Miño. At the southwest end of town the 19th-century Puente Internacional (International Bridge), with two levels (railway above, road below), crosses the Miño to Portugal’s equally appealing Valença.

1Sights

oCatedral de Santa Maria CATHEDRAL

(www.catedraldetui.com; adult/senior/student/child €4/3.50/3/free; h10.45am-8pm Jul–mid-Sep, 10.45am-2pm & 4-7pm mid-Sep–Jun)

The highlight of the Old Town is the fortress-like Catedral de Santa Maria, which reigns over Praza de San Fernando. Begun in the 12th century, it reflects a stoic Romanesque style in most of its construction, although the ornate main portal is reckoned the earliest work of Gothic sculpture on the Iberian Peninsula. Standard admission includes a multilingual audio guide and covers the lovely Gothic cloister as well as the main nave and chapels.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ideas Peregrinas HOSTEL€

(%986 07 63 30; www.ideas-peregrinas.com; Rúa Porta da Pía 1; dm €13-15, r €35-55; W)

Clean and welcoming, this family-run hostel in the heart of the Old Town is a boon for hikers on the Camino Portugués and anyone else. White paint and light wood predominate, and there’s a choice between private rooms (some with private bathroom) or four-person dorms with solid wooden bunks. The same people also run a very pleasant cafe (items €3-11; h7am-10pm; W) downstairs.

Hotel A Torre do Xudeu HISTORIC HOTEL€€

(%986 60 35 35; www.atorredoxudeu.es; Rúa Tide 3; r incl breakfast €60-75; hclosed mid-Dec–Feb; pW)

A lovely 1746 mansion with thick stone walls and a pretty garden, the atmospheric ‘Jew’s Tower’ has just six beautiful rooms in a fairly formal style, with large bathrooms. Several rooms look across the Río Miño to Portugal. The free parking is very welcome.

O Novo Cabalo Furado GALICIAN€€

(Praza do Concello; mains €11-23, seafood starters €6-15, menú del día €14; h1-3.30pm & 8.30-11pm, closed Sun Jul-Sep)

A couple of doors from the cathedral, this popular restaurant is very strong on fish, shellfish and heaping plates of lamb chops. It’s a separate business from the nearby Novo Cabalo Furado hostal.

8Information

Oficina Municipal de Turismo (%677 418405; www.concellotui.org; Praza de San Fernando; h8am-9pm Apr-Sep, shorter hr Oct-Mar) Helpful office in front of the cathedral.

8Getting There & Away

ATSA (www.automovilesdetuy.es) buses to Vigo (€3.30, 40 minutes) and A Guarda (€3.25, 40 minutes), both every 30 or 60 minutes until about 7.45pm (fewer services on weekends), stop on Paseo de Calvo Sotelo in front of Hostal Generosa. There are also two daily trains each to Vigo (€4, 45 minutes) and Valença (Portugal; €2.15, 10 minutes) from Tui station, 1km north of the centre.

EASTERN GALICIA

Though often overshadowed by Galicia’s glorious coastline and the better-known attractions of Santiago de Compostela, eastern Galicia is a treasure trove of enticing provincial cities, lovely landscapes, wine-growing regions and old-fashioned rural enclaves – perfect territory for travellers who like digging out their own gems.

GALICIAN WINES

There’s no better accompaniment to Galician food than Galician wines, which have a character all their own. Best known are the fruity whites from the albariño grape, which constitute more than 90% of the wine produced in the Rías Baixas Denominación de Origen (DO), located near Galicia’s southwestern coast and along the lower Río Miño. Albariño’s surge in popularity in the last couple of decades has, to some palates, yielded some wines that are too sweet and fruity. A good traditional albariño should have the aroma of a green apple and a slightly sour taste.

Encouraged by albariño’s success, vintners elsewhere in Galicia are innovating, expanding and producing ever better wines. Many of the best reds come from the native mencía grape, and winemakers are reviving other Galician grapes that almost disappeared in the 19th-century phylloxera plague – among them the white godello and the red brancellao and merenzao. Galicians often order wine just by naming the grape: ‘un mencía’ or ‘un albariño’…

Galicia’s other DOs include:

Ribeiro From the Ribadavia area in southern Galicia, Ribeiro produces some very good whites, mostly from the treixadura grape.

Ribeira Sacra In the southeast, yielding rich reds from mencía grapes, some of them grown on the amazingly steep hillsides above the Río Sil.

Monterrei In the warmest, driest part of southeast Galicia, bordering Portugal, Monterrei produces both reds and whites: look for Crego e Monaguillo’s very drinkable mencía reds and fruity godello whites.

Valdeorras This southeastern region bordering Castilla y León produces, among others, godello whites and mencía and brancellao reds.

Ourense

POP 98,900

Galicia’s unsung but beguiling third-largest city has an appealingly labyrinthine historic quarter, a lively tapas scene and unusual riverside thermal baths. Ourense (Castilian: Orense) first came into its own as a trading centre in the 11th century. The broad Río Miño runs east–west across the city, crossed by several bridges, including the elegant, stone-built, part-Roman, part-medieval Ponte Vella (Old Bridge) and the soaring concrete-and-metal Ponte do Milenio (Millennium Bridge) that opened in 2001. The central area, including the compact Old Town, rises south of the river.

1Sights

The Old Town unfolds around the 12th-century Catedral de San Martiño, in a maze of narrow streets and small plazas that are a pleasure to wander. Among the stone-flagged streets, stone-faced buildings and stone arcades, with almost no vehicular traffic, you may have to remind yourself you’re in the 21st century. The largest square is sloping Praza Maior, rimmed by old stone buildings with cafes under the arcades and the classical-facaded Casa do Concello (City Hall) at its foot.

Catedral de San Martiño CATHEDRAL

(www.catedralourense.com; Rúa de Juan de Austria; incl audio guide adult/child/student/pilgrim/senior €5/2/3/3.50/4.50; h11.30am-2.30pm & 4-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-3pm & 4-6.30pm Sun) F

The artistic highlight of Ourense’s Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, built mainly in the 12th and 13th centuries, is the gilded Santo Cristo chapel, inside the northern entrance. At the west end is the Pórtico do Paraíso, a less inspired but colourfully painted Gothic copy of Santiago de Compostela’s Pórtico de la Gloria.

4Sleeping

Grelo Hostel HOSTEL€

(%988 61 45 64; www.grelohostel.com; Rúa Pena Trevinca 40; dm incl breakfast pilgrim/other €15/17; hclosed 10 Dec-10 Jan; iW)

About half the guests at this good, friendly hostel are Camino de Santiago pilgrims on the Camino Mozárabe routes, which start in Andalucía – but it’s open to everyone and has 24-hour access (no curfew or early-morning kick-out time). The three 10- to 12-person dorms have good metal bunks, with duvets, cotton sheets and towels included in rates.

Hotel Novo Cándido HOTEL€

(%988 98 91 25; www.hotelnovocandido.com; Rúa San Miguel 14; s/d €40/55; aW)

New in 2017, this is a step up from other similarly priced central options. The 14 pleasant, bright rooms have discreet lighting, wood floors and panelling, big mirrors and rectangular white washbasins. Some bathrooms are equipped with glassed-in showers; others have bath-tubs. There’s a lively cafe-bar on the ground floor.

5Eating

Ir de tapeo (going for tapas) is a way of life in Ourense, and streets near the cathedral including Fornos, Paz, Lepanto, Viriato, San Miguel and Praza do Ferro brim with taverns where having to push your way to the bar is a sign of quality. Tapas start at €1.20 and are washed down with a glass of local wine.

Casa do Pulpo GALICIAN€

(Rúa de Juan de Austria; raciones €5-12; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight; W)

Facing the cathedral wall across a narrow street, this local favourite doesn’t just do perfect pulpo (octopus) but also other tasty Galician items such as zamburiñas (small scallops), xoubas (pilchards) and raxo (spicy pork chunks), plus combination bites including anchovies with cheese or solomillo (tenderloin) with cheese, bacon and red pepper.

Sybaris 2.0 SPANISH€€

(Rúa Santo Domingo 15, entrance Rúa Cardenal Quiroga 22; dishes €8-16, lunch menú €12; h11am-8pm Mon, 11am-11.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-11.30pm Sat)

Sybaris is not just a restaurant with a contemporary twist on Spanish fare, but also a well-stocked wine shop and Galicia-specialist deli (cheeses and hams, of course, but also lampreys in oil, crab pâté and sea-urchin caviar). The frequently changing menu might include partridge-and-artichoke risotto or Iberian pork tenderloin in port with glazed apple and chestnuts.

OURENSE’S THERMAL POOLS

Ourense’s original raison d’être was its hot springs and today the city’s attractively modernised thermal pools (http://termalismo.ourense.es) enable everyone to take a therapeutic dip, even in winter. Along a nicely landscaped 4km stretch of the north bank of the Miño are four sets of free open-air pools and two privately run sets of partly indoor pools.

You can walk to any of the pools, but another option is the Tren das Termas minitrain (www.urbanosdeourense.es; one way €0.85; hhourly 10am-1pm & 4-8pm, reduced frequency Oct-May), which runs to all the riverbank pools from Praza Maior. Take swimming gear, a towel and flip-flops (thongs), and remember that the waters are hot (around 40ºC) and mineral-laden, so don’t stay in them longer than about 10 minutes without a break.

One of the closest groups of privately run pools to the city centre (a 20- to 30-minute walk) is the Japanese-style, part-outdoor, part-indoor Estación Termal de A Chavasqueira (www.termaschavasqueira.com; Rúa Feira Nova; €4; h9am-11.30pm or later Tue-Sun), with four warm pools and one cold one, plus two saunas, massage service and a cafe.

The thermal pools of Termas de A Chavasqueira (h10am-7pm or 8pm), right on the riverbank, are the closest to the city centre of Ourense’s free, open-air, riverside pools. You can walk there in 20 to 30 minutes from the Old Town.

The four relatively large (up to 15m long) pools of Termas de Muiño da Vega (h10am-7 or 8pm) are the most enticing of Ourense’s free open-air thermal pools, sitting in a pleasantly green spot beside the Miño about 5km northwest of the city centre.

3Entertainment

Café Latino JAZZ, BLUES

(www.cafelatino.es; Rúa Coronel Ceano 7; h7.30am-3am Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2am Sun; W)

Classy Café Latino has a fabulous corner stage that hosts jazz gigs most Thursdays, starting around 10pm or 11pm, and a jazz festival in May. It’s been serving up jazz for three decades and is a good breakfast spot too.

THE ULTIMATE OCTOPUS FEAST

Most Galicians agree that the best pulpo á feira (Galicia’s signature octopus dish) is cooked far from the sea in the inland town of O Carballiño, 30km northwest of Ourense. Tens of thousands of people pile into O Carballiño on the second Sunday of August for the Festa do Pulpo de O Carballiño (www.festadopulpodocarballino.es; h2nd Sun in Aug).

Cooks here invented the recipe in the Middle Ages, when the local monastery received copious supplies of octopus from tenants on its coastal properties.

8Information

Oficina Municipal de Turismo (%988 36 60 64; www.turismodeourense.gal; Calle Isabel La Católica 2; h9am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun) A very helpful place beneath the Xardinillos Padre Feijóo park, just off pedestrianised Rúa do Paseo.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

From Ourense’s bus station (%988 21 60 27; Carretera de Vigo 1), 2km northwest of the centre, Monbus runs to Santiago (€9, 1¾ hours, four or more daily), Vigo (€6.55, 1½ hours, four or more daily), Pontevedra (€7.10, 1½ hours, one or more daily) and Lugo (€6.05, 1¾ hours, two or more daily). Arriva heads to A Coruña (€19 to €22, 2¼ to three hours, three or four daily). Avanza (www.avanzabus.com) journeys to Madrid (€34 to €39, six to seven hours, five daily).

TRAIN

The train station (Avenida de Marín) is 500m north of the Río Miño. Renfe runs to Santiago (€10 to €20, 40 minutes to 1¾ hours, 10 daily), Vigo (€12 to €24, 1¾ to 2½ hours, 10 or more daily), León (€15 to €35, 3¾ to 4½ hours, five daily) and elsewhere.

8Getting Around

Local buses 1, 3, 6A and others (€0.85) run between the train station and the central Parque de San Lázaro. Buses 6A, 6B and 12 connect the bus station with Parque San Lázaro.

Ribadavia & the Ribeiro Wine Region

POP 3130 (RIBADAVIA)

The headquarters of the Ribeiro wine Denominación de Origen (DO), which produces some of Galicia’s best whites, Ribadavia sits beside the Río Avia 30km west of Ourense, among green, rolling hills strewn with vineyards and old stone villages (the Avia valley north of town is particularly charming). The town’s little historic centre is an enticing maze of narrow streets lined with heavy stone arcades and broken up by diminutive plazas; within this, in medieval times, was Galicia’s largest Jewish quarter, centred on Rúa Merelles Caulla.

1Sights & Activities

More than 20 wineries in the area are open for visits. Most require a phone call in advance: the best strategy is to talk to the staff at Ribadavia’s tourist office, who really know their wineries and can help arrange visits. For further information, check www.rutadelvinoribeiro.com and www.ribeiro.wine.

Museo Sefardí MUSEUM

(Centro de Información Xudía de Galicia; Praza Maior 7; adult/child incl Castelo dos Sarmento & audio guide €3.50/free; h9.30am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

Above the tourist office on the lovely main square, this centre has exhibits on the Jews of Galicia since their expulsion from Spain in 1492.

Castelo dos Sarmento CASTLE

(Castelo dos Condes; Rúa Progreso; adult/child incl Museo Sefardí & audio guide €3.50/free; h9.30am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

The large, chiefly 15th-century castle of the Counts of Ribadavia is one of Galicia’s biggest medieval castles and contains a medieval necropolis within its bare stone precinct, which is brought alive by the audio guide (available in English). Tickets are sold at the tourist office.

Bodega Viña Meín WINERY

(%676 358763; www.vinamein.com; Lugar de Meín, San Clodio; hdaily by reservation; p) F

This medium-size winery adjoining the Viña Meín country hotel produces more than 100,000 bottles annually of good reds and whites, from indigenous Galician grapes grown on 16 hectares of vineyards around the Avia valley. It has a lovely bright modern tasting room for you to sample its vintages.

Paseo Fluvial WALKING

Relax with a stroll along this riverside path beside the Ríos Avia and Miño. You can access it by steps down from Praza Buxán, next to Praza Madalena in Ribadavia’s Judería (old Jewish quarter): it’s 600m to the Avia’s confluence with the much bigger Miño, then 1.8km along the Miño to the path’s end.

If you’re up for a longer stretch of the legs, Ribadavia’s tourist office can tell you about several longer marked walking trails in and around the Avia valley.

zFestivals & Events

Feira do Viño do Ribeiro WINE

(http://feiravinoribeiro.com; hMay)

Ribadavia parties on the first weekend in May with this big wine festival.

4Sleeping & Eating

Lodgings in town are limited but there are some wonderful rural hotels in the area, especially in the beautiful Avia valley to the north.

oCasal de Armán HOTEL€€

(%699 060464; www.casaldearman.net; O Cotiño, San Andrés; r incl breakfast €75-90; pW)

You can kill several birds with one stone at this dignified country house set among vineyards and lovely Avia valley countryside. The six cosy rooms feature plenty of exposed stone and toiletries made from grape extract! Also here are a top-class restaurant (reservations essential at weekends), and a top Ribeiro winery (%638 043335; incl tasting €7; hvisits by reservation Tue-Sun Nov-Aug; p) with free visits for restaurant or hotel guests.

It’s 6km northeast of Ribadavia.

Pazo de Esposende HOTEL€€

(%696 378670; http://pazoesposende.es; Carretera OU211, Esposende; r incl breakfast €50-85; paW)

Fully modernised under new ownership in 2017, this 16th-century mansion in the Avia valley, a few kilometres north of Ribadavia, boasts appealingly comfortable and up-to-date rooms with subtle lighting and full-wall murals of local scenes, but retains its thick stone walls, handsome, pillared courtyard, and charming views over the village and countryside. The welcome is friendly and the breakfast filling.

Viña Meín CASA RURAL€€

(%617 326385; www.vinamein.com; Lugar de Meín, San Clodio; d incl breakfast €66; pWs)

Viña Meín, in a beautiful part of the Avia valley about 10km north of Ribadavia, is a delightful six-room, old-stone, country guesthouse, with a medium-sized on-site winery producing good whites and reds from indigenous Galician grapes. All in all, a fine base for visiting the region.

O Birrán Gastrobar GALICIAN€

(Praza da Madalena 8; mains €6.50-13; hnoon-3.30pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)

Set in a medieval house in the old Judería (Jewish quarter), O Birrán cooks up some very tasty plates from classic Galician ingredients – good choices include the pulpo con tetilla (octopus with cheese) and the tortilla abierta (omelette with greens, cheese, bacon and wild mushrooms).

oSábrego GALICIAN€€

(%988 49 18 09; www.sabrego.es; Casal de Armán, O Cotiño, San Andrés; mains €17-19; h1.15-3.45pm & 8.45-11.15pm Tue-Sun, closed evenings Tue-Thu & Sun mid-Oct–mid-Jun; p)

The rustic-chic restaurant at the lovely country hotel Casal de Armán serves a seasonally changing array of excellent, chiefly Galician fare with some creative twists. Standouts include the lamb shoulder with cachelos (boiled potatoes) and spinach, the red tuna with cream of San Simón cheese, and the octopus dim sum. Reservations essential for weekends.

8Information

Tourist Office (%988 47 12 75; http://ribadaviaturismo.weebly.com; Praza Maior 7; h9.30am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, shorter hr Oct-May) Very helpful office in an old mansion of the Counts of Ribadavia on the lovely main square.

8Getting There & Away

At least two buses and two trains run daily to Ourense and Vigo from stations in the east of town, just across the Río Avia.

Ribeira Sacra

Northeast of Ourense, along the Ríos Sil and Miño, unfold the natural beauty and unique cultural heritage of the Ribeira Sacra (Sacred Riverbank), so called for the many medieval monasteries founded here after early Christian hermits and monks were drawn to this remote area. Amid the beautiful and sometimes severe scenery – particularly dramatic along the Cañón do Sil (Sil Canyon) – the area offers good walking and mountain-bike trails, winery visits (Ribeira Sacra is one of Galicia’s five wine DOs) and boat trips along the rivers.

The area is poorly served by public transport, but it makes for a marvellous driving trip. A good route is to head from Ourense to Monforte de Lemos via the Mosteiro de San Pedro de Rocas, Mosteiro de Santo Estevo, Parada de Sil and Castro Caldelas. Try to give yourself at least two days to make the most of what the area has to offer.

8Information

The website Ribeira Sacra (www.ribeirasacra.org) is a very useful resource with, among other things, detailed information on the area’s wineries and more than 20 walking routes (with maps). There are tourist information offices in many villages but their opening times are often limited: the best information office for the area overall is in the Centro do Viño da Ribeira Sacra (%982 10 53 03; www.centrovino-ribeirasacra.com; Rúa Comercio 6; tour incl glass of wine €2.50; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Tue-Sun Oct-Jun) in Monforte de Lemos.

8Getting There & Around

Monforte de Lemos has reasonable bus or train connections with Ourense, Lugo and other Galician cities. Villages on the south side of the Cañón do Sil have limited bus service, Monday to Friday only, to/from Ourense; there’s also a Monday-to-Friday service between Castro Caldelas and Monforte de Lemos.

Luintra & Around

POP 410 (LUINTRA) / ELEV 640M (LUINTRA)

Two of the Ribeira Sacra’s most impressive and contrasting monasteries stand a few kilometres either side of the village of Luintra, about 25km northeast of Ourense. They make a fine pair of first stops if you’re starting out on a Ribeira Sacra tour from Ourense.

1Sights

oMosteiro de San Pedro de Rocas MONASTERY

(%661 508243; www.centrointerpretacionribeirasacra.com; h10.30am-1.45pm & 4-7.45pm daily Apr-Sep, 10.30am-1.45pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar; p) F

Founded in AD 573, this enchanting mini-monastery stands hidden among dense woods 11km south of Luintra. It contains three cave chapels, originally carved out of the rock as retreats for early hermits, plus a number of rock-cut graves from the 10th century onwards. The adjacent interpretation centre has interesting displays on the Ribeira Sacra. You can also take a lovely walk from here along the Camiño Real (PRG4), a 9km circuit trail looping through this picturesque area.

To drive direct from Ourense, take the OU536 east as far as Tarreirigo. Here, 500m past the Km 15 post, turn left on to the OU0509 and follow signs along minor roads for 4km through the forests to the monastery. Afterwards you can continue north to Luintra on the OU0509.

oMosteiro de Santo Estevo MONASTERY

(Monasterio de San Esteban; hclosed Jan–mid-Feb; p) F

The enormous Mosteiro de Santo Estevo, on the side of the steep, thickly wooded valley above the Río Sil, dates from the 12th century and has three magnificent cloisters (one Romanesque-Gothic, two Renaissance), a Romanesque-Gothic church and an 18th-century baroque facade. It’s now a luxurious parador hotel (%988 01 01 10; www.parador.es; Santo Estevo; s/d incl breakfast from €108/126; hclosed Jan–mid-Feb; paW), but everyone is free to wander round the main monuments and eat in the cafe or restaurant.

4Sleeping

A Casa da Eira CASA RURAL€

(%696 749493; www.acasadaeira.com; Lugar Alberguería 31, Cerreda; s/d €45/55, apt for 2/4 €90/136; pW)

A Casa da Eira provides ample, comfortably modernised rooms in an old granite-and-timber farmhouse in a tiny hamlet 300m off the OU0508, 11.5km east of Luintra. The welcoming hosts are full of helpful information on the numerous walks and other things to do in the area, and serve up big breakfasts (€5.50) with homemade jams from their orchard (but no other meals).

Parada de Sil & Around

POP 190 (PARADA DE SIL) / ELEV 660M (PARADA DE SIL)

The village of Parada de Sil sits on the plateau high above the Cañón do Sil, 22km east of Luintra. From the village, separate roads lead 1km to the spectacular Balcóns de Madrid viewpoint over the canyon and 4km down to the lovely Mosteiro de Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil (interior €1; hexterior 24hr, interior 11am-2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun; p), with its 12th-century Romanesque church, hidden among trees above the canyon. Part of the PRG98 walking trail heads down to the monastery and back up to the viewpoint in a loop of about 10km from the village.

oRuta Cañón do Río Mao WALKING

(PRG177)

This excellent trail starts at the Albergue A Fábrica da Luz, 11km east of Parada de Sil. You can shorten the full 16km circuit to an enjoyable 5km loop (about 2½ hours) by descending the pretty Mao canyon (initially on a boardwalk) to Barxacova village, then climbing 1.5km past vineyards to San Lourenzo village, then descending back to A Fábrica.

At San Lourenzo take a 500m (each way) detour to the interesting medieval necropolis of San Vítor.

The full, relatively demanding 16km circuit, with a total altitude gain of over 600m, continues south from San Lourenzo to the upland villages of A Miranda and Forcas and the medieval bridge at Conceliños before heading back north down the Mao canyon/valley to San Lourenzo and A Fábrica da Luz.

4Sleeping

Reitoral de Chandrexa CASA RURAL€

(%605 867622, 988 20 80 99; www.chandrexa.com; Chandrexa; d €48-56; hclosed mid-Dec–Jan; pW) S

A charming little guesthouse occupying the former curate’s house next to Santa María de Chandrexa church, and serving excellent organic breakfasts (€5.50) and dinners (€12 to €15), with many ingredients from its own garden. The three comfy rooms have stone walls, wood floors and ceilings, and good bathrooms, and there’s a cosy farmhouse-style dining-cum-sitting room.

Albergue A Fábrica da Luz HOSTEL€

(%988 98 49 90; http://afabricadaluz.com; OU0605 Km 5.7; dm/d incl breakfast €17/34; hdaily Jun-Sep, Sat, Sun & holidays mid-Mar–May & Oct–mid-Dec; pW)

Housed in a converted small hydroelectric station in the beautiful leafy canyon of the Río Mao (a tributary of the Río Sil), this is a well-run place. The two 14-bunk dorms and two double rooms (sharing bathrooms) are clean and well kept, and good, inexpensive food is available. It’s 11km east of Parada de Sil along the OU0605.

The Ruta Cañón do Río Mao walking trail starts right here with an 850m-long boardwalk, the Pasarela do Río Mao, heading down the canyon. The hostel has kayaks to rent (€10 per hour) on the river at the foot of the canyon, 1km away, and also functions as the Centro BTT Ribeira Sacra (Ribeira Sacra Mountain Bike Centre), with bikes to rent (€15 per day including helmet) and plentiful information on good routes.

Castro Caldelas & Around

POP 610 (CASTRO CALDELAS) / ELEV 780M (CASTRO CALDELAS)

The hilltop village of Castro Caldelas, with its cobbled streets and old stone houses with Galician galerías and well-tended flower boxes, is a good spot to spend the night. Explore the old quarter at the top of the village, crowned by a panoramic 14th-century castle (adult/child €2/free; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm; p). It’s located 52km east of Ourense.

From Castro Caldelas, the OU903 winds 10km northward down to the Sil Canyon, crosses the river on the Ponte do Sil bridge, then becomes the LU903 as it climbs across almost vertical vineyards en route towards Monforte de Lemos. Interesting wineries to visit on this route include Ponte da Boga, Adega Algueira (%982 41 02 99; www.adegaalgueira.com; Doade; tour incl tasting in Spanish/English €5/7; htours in English noon, Spanish 1pm; p) and Regina Viarum (%619 009777; http://reginaviarum.es; Doade; tour incl tasting €1-5; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8pm daily Jun-Sep, 10.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Thu-Sun Oct-May; p) – these last two are both at Doade, a few kilometres up the hill on the north side of the canyon.

From the Ponte do Sil, you can take river cruises on the 16-passenger Brandán (%982 41 02 99; www.adegaalgueira.com; adult/child €15/7; h11am, 12.30pm, 5pm & 6.30pm Thu-Tue Mar-Nov) or larger boats operated by the Diputación de Lugo (%982 26 01 96; Embarcadoiro de Doade; adult/senior & child €9/5; h11.30am & 4 or 4.30pm daily Jun-Sep, Wed-Sun Oct-Nov & Apr-May, also 7pm daily Jun–mid-Sep).

There are four small hotels in the quaint old part of Castro Caldelas.

oPonte da Boga WINERY

(%988 20 33 06; www.pontedaboga.es; Carretera OU903, Km 21.8, O Couto, San Paio; 45min tour incl 7 wine tastings €5; h10am-2pm & 4-10pm Easter-Oct, 10am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Nov-Easter; p) F

One of the most interesting wineries in the Castro Caldelas area, Ponte da Boga dates back to 1898 and is one of a growing number of wineries that are reviving autochthonous Galician grape varieties. Some of its wines are among Ribeira Sacra’s best, and you get to taste seven of them on the standard tour. It’s located 6km down the OU903 from Castro Caldelas towards the Sil Canyon.

4Sleeping

Hotel Casa de Caldelas HOTEL€

(%988 20 31 97; www.hotelcasadecaldelas.com; Praza do Prado 5, Castro Caldelas; incl breakfast s €35-40, d €45-55; W)

Snug, up-to-date rooms in a handsome 18th-century stone house on the village’s main square make this small, welcoming hotel a great choice. Bathrooms are small but have good contemporary fittings.

Monforte de Lemos

POP 16,335 / ELEV 300M

This crossroads town is neither as compact nor as pristine as other stops in the region, but it has a historic heart and it’s well worth making your way north of the centre up the hill, Monte de San Vicente. Here the 17th-century Monasterio de San Vicente is occupied by a parador hotel whose courtyard, cafe and restaurant are open to all, and you can visit the Torre da Homenaxe (€1.50; h11am-1.45pm & 4-6.30pm or later Tue-Sun; p), the last vestige of the Counts of Lemos’ medieval castle. You can drive up Monte de San Vicente, but it’s interesting to walk up past medieval walls and houses from Praza de España in the town centre. Follow Rúas Zapaterías, Pescaderías and Falagueira then head up the ‘Castillo’ path a few metres inside the Porta Nova gate.

At Pazo Molinos de Antero (%676 573563; www.pazomolinosdeantero.com; Carretera de Malvarón; r €55-65, d €105-115; pW) the old stables of an 18th-century manor house on the east side of town have been converted into cosy, modern rooms and self-catering apartments. Added to the attractions of staying here – which include a warm welcome, good large bathrooms, a sitting room with free coffee and tea, and a grassy garden – are guided tours of the house, which is still in the hands of its original family.

Lugo

POP 90,000

The grand Roman walls encircling old Lugo are considered the best preserved of their kind in the world and are the number-one reason visitors land here. Within the fortress is a beautifully preserved web of streets and squares, most of them traffic-free and ideal for strolling, with plenty of interesting things to see (nearly all free) and a terrific tapas-bar scene. Lucus Augusti was a major town of Roman Gallaecia and modern Lugo is a quiet but engaging city, with a good number of other Roman remains besides the walls.

1Sights

oRoman Walls WALLS

(h24hr; c) F

The path running right round the top of the World Heritage–listed Roman walls is to Lugo what a maritime promenade is to a seaside resort: a place to jog, take an evening stroll, see and be seen. The walls, erected in the 3rd century AD, make a 2.2km loop around the Old Town, rise 15m high and are studded with 85 stout towers. They failed, however, to save Lugo from being taken by the Suevi in 460 and the Muslims three centuries later.

Until well into the 19th century, tolls were charged to bring goods into the walled city, and its gates were closed at night.

The Centro de Interpretación de la Muralla (Praza do Campo 11; h11am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Wed, 11am-7.30pm Thu-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct, 11am-2pm & 4-6pm Mon-Wed, 11am-6pm Thu-Sun mid-Oct–mid-Jun) Fa block north of Lugo’s cathedral, gives interesting background on the Roman walls, with videos and free audio guides, all available in English.

Catedral de Santa María CATHEDRAL

(%982 23 10 38; Praza Pio XII; h8.25am-8.45pm)

The cathedral, inspired by Santiago de Compostela’s, was begun in 1129, though work continued for centuries, yielding an aesthetic mix of styles ranging from Romanesque (as in the transepts) to neoclassical (the main facade). It’s a serene building that merits a close look. The superb gilded main altarpiece, carved with scenes from the life of Christ by Cornelis de Holanda in the 1530s, now stands in two parts in the two transepts.

Behind the ultra-baroque high altar (which is surrounded by very colourful stained-glass windows), an ultra-baroque chapel houses the beautiful Gothic image of Nosa Señora dos Ollos Grandes (Our Lady of the Big Eyes), in polychromed alabaster. Outside, just above the north doorway, the sculpture of Christ in majesty is a masterpiece of Spanish Romanesque stone carving.

Museo Provincial MUSEUM

(http://redemuseisticalugo.org; Praza da Soidade; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm & 4.30-8pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F

Lugo’s main museum includes parts of the Gothic Convento de San Francisco and is one of Galicia’s best and biggest museums. The well-displayed exhibits range from pre-Roman gold jewellery and Roman mosaics to Galician Sargadelos ceramics and a large collection of 19th- and 20th-century Galician art.

Casa dos Mosaicos ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Rúa de Doutor Castro 20-22; h11am-1.30pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct, 11.30am-1.30pm & 5-7pm Thu-Sat, 11.30am-1.30pm Sun mid-Oct–mid-Jun) F

These remains of a Roman mansion sit beneath an Old Town street, with some beautiful, wonderfully preserved mosaics and murals.

zFestivals & Events

Arde Lucus FIESTA

(www.ardelucus.com; hJun; c)

Around half a million people pack into Lugo over three days in June (sometimes running into the first days of July), as the city returns to its Roman roots with this festival featuring chariot races, gladiator fights, a whole lot of Roman costume and plenty more.

CAMINOS DE SANTIAGO IN GALICIA

All of the Caminos de Santiago converge in Galicia, their shared goal. About 63% of pilgrims reach Santiago de Compostela by the Camino Francés, which starts in the Pyrenees. This route enters Galicia at O Cebreiro in the hills bordering Castilla y León, then heads west for the final 154km across welcome green countryside to Santiago de Compostela. But growing numbers of pilgrims also reach Santiago by the Camino Portugués (entering Galicia from Portugal at Tui or A Guarda), Camino del Norte (along the coast from the Basque Country through Cantabria and Asturias), Vía de la Plata (from Andalucía), Camino Primitivo (from Oviedo via Lugo) and Camino Inglés (from A Coruña or Ferrol).

Tiny O Cebreiro, 1300m high, marks the top of the Camino Francés’ longest, hardest climb. About half the buildings here are bar-restaurants (many offering cheap set menus) or pensiones or pilgrims’ hostels: among them are dotted several pallozas (circular, thatched dwellings of a type known in rural Galicia since pre-Roman times, where families shared living space with their livestock). The nicest accommodation is the five wood-beamed, stone-walled rooms in the main building of Hotel Cebreiro (%982 36 71 82; www.hotelcebreiro.com; O Cebreiro; s/d €40/50; W); reservations advised.

In Triacastela, 19km downhill from O Cebreiro, the camino divides, with both paths reuniting later in Sarria. The longer (25km) southern route passes through Samos, a village built around the very fine Benedictine Mosteiro de Samos (%982 54 60 46; www.abadiadesamos.com; tours €4; htours hourly 9.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.45pm & hourly 4.30-6.30pm Sun May-Oct, hourly 10am-noon, 4.30pm & 5.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 12.45pm, 4.30pm & 5.30pm Sun Nov-Apr; p). This monastery has two beautiful big cloisters – one Gothic, with distinctly unmonastic Greek nymphs adorning its fountain; the other neoclassical and filled with roses. Samos has plenty of inexpensive lodgings, but another good option is the welcoming Casa de Díaz (%982 54 70 70; www.casadediaz.com; Vilachá; r €35-50, breakfast €6.30; hclosed approx Nov-Mar; piWs), an 18th-century farmhouse turned rural hotel at Vilachá, 3.5km west. It has 12 comfy rooms in olde-worlde style.

People undertaking just the last 100km of the camino usually start 12km west of Samos at Sarria (114km from Santiago). From here the camino winds through village after village, across forests and fields, then descends steeply to Portomarín, above the Río Miño. After a tough 25km stretch to Palas de Rei, the next 15km to Melide follows some lovely rural lanes. From Melide, 53km remain through woodlands, villages, countryside and, at the end, city streets. The camino approaches central Santiago along Rúa de San Pedro and arrives in Praza da Inmaculada on the northern side of the cathedral. Most pilgrims take a few more steps down through an archway to emerge on magnificent Praza do Obradoiro, before the cathedral’s famous western facade.

If you’re touring Galicia rather than camino-ing it, the 30km from O Cebreiro to Samos make a marvellous side trip. Drivers entering Galicia along the A6 from Astorga can turn off into Pedrafita do Cebreiro, then follow the LU633 4km south up to O Cebreiro. The road from there to Samos winds down through green countryside with great long-distance views, frequently criss-crossing the camino.

4Sleeping

Hotel Méndez Núñez HOTEL€

(%982 23 07 11; www.hotelmendeznunez.com; Rúa da Raíña 1; r €50-135; aiW)

The 69-room Méndez Núñez offers bright, spacious quarters with good beds, gleaming bathrooms and parquet floors. With a great Old Town location and parking nearby for €6, it’s a good deal when rates are in the €50 to €65 range, as they often are. The wi-fi signal can be feeble on some floors.

Hotel España HOTEL€

(%982 81 60 62; hotelespanalugo@hotmail.com; Rúa Vilalba 2 Bis; s/d €25/35; W)

With a cheerful reception and cheerful decorative touches in the rooms such as tangerine walls or bird murals, the España is a good deal for its prices. Seven of the 17 rooms look out at the Roman walls across the street. Breakfast costs €2.50.

Orbán e Sangro BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

(Hotel Pazo de Orbán; %982 24 02 17; www.pazodeorban.es; Travesía do Miño 6; d €110-220, incl breakfast €132-253; paW)

The 12 rooms of this welcoming hotel, in an 18th-century mansion just inside the Roman walls, are regal, with rich linen, antique furnishings, designer bathrooms and (in 10 rooms) huge 2.15m beds. The hotel serves a great ‘ecological’ breakfast, is full of intriguing antiques and classical art, and has its own tavern in a highly original early-20th-century style.

5Eating

The Old Town, especially Rúa da Cruz, Rúa Nova and Praza do Campo, north of the cathedral, is liberally endowed with inviting bar-restaurants serving both tapas and main dishes. Many offer two free tapas with each drink: one selected by the bar, the other chosen by you from a list recited verbally (usually at high speed!) by bar staff.

Las Cinco Vigas TAPAS€

(Rúa da Cruz 9; raciones €4-12; h9am-midnight Wed-Mon)

Always one of the busiest tapas bars, with a totally mixed crowd enjoying exceptionally good free tapas, including a great terneira al vino tinto (veal in red wine). Items are also available as raciones (full plate servings) if you want more than a couple of mouthfuls.

Restaurante Paprica GALICIAN€€€

(www.paprica.es; Rúa das Nóreas 10; mains €19-29; h1.30-3.45pm & 8.30-10.45pm, closed Mon night & Sun Jun-Sep, Sun night & Mon Oct-May)

The talented young team here creates satisfying original dishes based on time-honoured Galician ingredients of fresh fish, shellfish, vegetables and quality meat – a contemporary experience enhanced by the clean-lined, unfussy decor. You can eat light in the bar or sit down to a la carte meals or a set menu. Everything is delicious, including the desserts!

Mesón de Alberto GALICIAN€€€

(%982 22 83 10; www.mesondealberto.com; Rúa da Cruz 4; mains €13-30; h1-4pm Sun & Mon, 1-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm Wed-Sat)

The classiest place in the tapas zone, Alberto serves good, traditionally prepared meat, fish and shellfish with a few inventive touches – meals in the main dining room upstairs; tapas on the ground floor. The €15 tapas tasting menu (three dishes and wine) is a fair bet.

8Information

Oficina Municipal de Turismo (%982 25 16 58; http://lugo.gal; Praza do Campo 11; h11am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Wed, 11am-7.30pm Thu-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct, shorter hr rest of year) Helpful office in the Centro de Interpretación de la Muralla.

8Getting There & Away

From the bus station (%982 22 39 85; Praza da Constitución), just outside the southern walls, Empresa Freire (www.empresafreire.com) runs to Santiago de Compostela (€9.45, two hours, six or more daily), and Arriva heads to A Coruña (€9.15, 1¼ to two hours, five or more daily). Other services head to Monforte de Lemos, Ourense, Pontevedra, Viveiro, Ribadeo, León, Madrid, Asturias and beyond.

Renfe trains head at least three times daily to A Coruña (€10 to €12, 1¾ hours) and Monforte de Lemos (€6 to €16, one hour), and once or more daily to Madrid (€28 to €53, seven to 9½ hours).

Getting There & Away

Cabo Ortegal & Around

Bares Peninsula

Viveiro

TOP FIVE BREATHTAKING VIEWS

Ribadeo

RÍAS BAIXAS

Ría de Arousa

Cambados

WORTH A TRIP

CASTRO DE BAROñA

Pontevedra

PRAIA A LANZADA

Ría de Pontevedra

Combarro

Illa de Ons

Ría de Vigo

Vigo

WORTH A TRIP

ILLAS CÍES

SOUTHWEST GALICIA

Baiona

A Guarda

Tui

EASTERN GALICIA

GALICIAN WINES

Ourense

OURENSE’S THERMAL POOLS

THE ULTIMATE OCTOPUS FEAST

Ribadavia & the Ribeiro Wine Region

Ribeira Sacra

Luintra & Around

Parada de Sil & Around

Castro Caldelas & Around

Monforte de Lemos

Lugo

CAMINOS DE SANTIAGO IN GALICIA