If you think the Costa del Sol is soulless, you clearly haven’t been to Málaga. Loaded with history and brimming with a youthful vigour that proudly acknowledges its multi-layered past, the city that gave the world Picasso has transformed itself in spectacular fashion in the last decade, with half a dozen new art galleries, a radically rethought port area and a nascent art district called Soho. Not that Málaga was ever lacking in energy: the Spanish-to-the-core bar scene could put bags under the eyes of an insomniac madrileño, while the food culture encompasses both Michelin stars and tastefully tatty fish shacks.
Come here for tapas washed down with sweet local wine, and stay in a creative boutique hotel sandwiched between a Roman amphitheatre, a Moorish fortress and the polychromatic Pompidou Centre, while you reflect on how eloquently Málaga has reinvented itself for the 21st century. Look out, Seville.
Málaga
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
oMuseo Picasso Málaga MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%952 12 76 00; www.museopicassomalaga.org; Calle San Agustín 8; €7, incl temporary exhibition €10; 
h10am-8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb)
This unmissable museum in the city of Picasso’s birth provides a solid overview of the great master and his work, although, surprisingly, it only came to fruition in 2003 after more than 50 years of planning. The 200-plus works in the collection were donated and loaned to the museum by Christine Ruiz-Picasso (wife of Paul, Picasso’s eldest son) and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso (Picasso’s grandson) and catalogue the artist’s sparkling career with a few notable gaps (the ‘blue’ and ‘rose’ periods are largely missing).
Nonetheless, numerous gems adorn the gallery’s lily-white walls. Highlights include a painting of Picasso’s sister Lola undertaken when the artist was only 13; sculptures made from clay, plaster and sheet metal; numerous sketches; a quick journey through cubism; and some interesting late works when Picasso developed an obsession with musketeers. The museum, which is housed in the 16th-century Buenavista Palace, has a excellent cafe and holds revolving temporary exhibitions.
oCatedral de Málaga CATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 21 59 17; www.malagacatedral.com; Calle Molina Lario; cathedral & Ars Málaga €6, incl roof €10; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat, 2-6.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, closes 6.30pm daily Nov-Mar)
Málaga’s elaborate cathedral was started in the 16th century on the site of the former mosque. Of the mosque, only the Patio de los Naranjos survives, a small courtyard of fragrant orange trees.
Inside, the fabulous domed ceiling soars 40m into the air, while the vast colonnaded nave houses an enormous cedar-wood choir. Aisles give access to 15 chapels with gorgeous 18th-century retables and religious art. It’s worth taking the guided tour up to the cubiertas (roof) to enjoy panoramic city views.
Building the cathedral was an epic project that took some 200 years. Such was the project’s cost that by 1782 it was decided that work would stop. One of the two bell towers was left incomplete, hence the cathedral’s well-worn nickname, La Manquita (The One-Armed Lady). The ticket price includes use of an audio guide as well as entry to the Ars Málaga (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.arsmalaga.es; Plaza del Obispo; €4, incl cathedral €6; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat, 2-6.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, closes 6.30pm daily Nov-Mar) museum of religious art and African artefacts in the Bishop’s House opposite.
oAlcazaba CASTLE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %630 932987; www.malagaturismo.com; Calle Alcazabilla; €2.20, incl Castillo de Gibralfaro €3.55; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Sun)
No time to visit Granada’s Alhambra? Then Málaga’s Alcazaba can provide a taster. The entrance is next to the Roman amphitheatre, from where a meandering path climbs amid lush greenery: crimson bougainvillea, lofty palms, fragrant jasmine bushes and rows of orange trees. Extensively restored, this palace-fortress dates from the 11th-century Moorish period; the caliphal horseshoe arches, courtyards and bubbling fountains are evocative of this influential period in Málaga’s history.
There are various unlabelled exhibits of Islamic pottery, but the main joys are the building itself, the gardens and the views. The dreamy Patio de la Alberca is especially redolent of the Alhambra.
Castillo de Gibralfaro CASTLE
(%952 22 72 30; www.malagaturismo.com; Camino de Gibralfaro; €2.20, incl Alcazaba €3.55; h9am-9pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar)
One remnant of Málaga’s Islamic past is the craggy ramparts of the Castillo de Gibralfaro, spectacularly located high on the hill overlooking the city. Built by Abd ar-Rahman I, the 8th-century Córdoban emir, and later rebuilt in the 14th century when Málaga was the main port for the emirate of Granada, the castle originally acted as a lighthouse and military barracks.
Nothing much is original in the castle’s interior, but the protective walkway around the ramparts affords the best views over Málaga.
Roman Amphitheatre LANDMARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 50 11 15; Calle Alcazabilla 8; h10am-8pm) 
F
The story of the unearthing of Málaga’s Roman theatre is almost as interesting as the theatre itself. Dating from the time of Augustus (1st century AD), it was rediscovered in 1951 by workers building the foundations for a new Casa de Cultura. Today the theatre sits fully exposed beneath the walls of the Alcazaba. A small interpretive centre next door outlines its history and displays a few artefacts shovelled from its crusty foundations.
Museo de Málaga MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 29 40 51; Plaza de la Aduana; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 8pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun) F
Reopened in Málaga’s neoclassical Palacio de Aduana in December 2016 following a full renovation, this museum houses art and archaeological collections. The 1st-floor fine-arts collection, kept in storage for nearly two decades, consists primarily of 19th-century Andalucian landscape and genre paintings, plus more modern work from the ‘Generation of ‘27’. The extensive archaeological collection, bequeathed to the city by the noble Loring-Heredia family, ranges from Neolithic shards uncovered in the nearby Cueva de Nerja to a headless statue of a Roman noblewoman.
Museo de Arte Flamenco MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 13 80; www.museoflamencojuanbreva.com; Calle Franquelo 4; donation €1; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Fabulously laid out over two floors in the HQ of Málaga’s oldest and most prestigious peña (private flamenco club), this collection of fans, costumes, posters and other flamenco paraphernalia is testament to the city’s illustrious flamenco scene.
Museo Carmen Thyssen MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.carmenthyssenmalaga.org; Calle Compañía 10; €6, incl temporary exhibition €9; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun)
Located in an aesthetically renovated 16th-century palace in the heart of the city’s former Moorish quarter, this extensive collection concentrates on 19th-century Spanish and Andalucian art by painters such as Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida and Ignacio Zuloaga.
MAUS AREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Málaga Arte Urbano en el Soho; www.mausmalaga.com)
The antithesis of Málaga’s prestigious world-class art museums is refreshingly down-to-earth MAUS, a grassroots movement born out of an influx of street artists to the area. The result is a total transformation of the formerly rundown district between the city centre and the port – now called Soho, the district has edgy contemporary murals several stories high, as well as arty cafes, ethnic restaurants and street markets.
Centro de Arte Contemporáneo MUSEUM
(Contemporary Art Museum; www.cacmalaga.org; Calle Alemania; h9am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun) F
The contemporary-art museum is housed in a skilfully converted 1930s wholesale market on the river estuary. The bizarre triangular floor plan of the building has been retained, with its cubist lines and shapes brilliantly showcasing the modern art on display. Painted entirely white, windows and all, the museum hosts temporary shows featuring the work of well-known contemporary artists and has an obvious Spanish bias. It’s usually filled with plenty of spectacularly weird exhibits.
Centre Pompidou Málaga MUSEUM
(%951 92 62 00; www.centrepompidou.es; Pasaje Doctor Carrillo Casaux, Muelle Uno; €7, incl temporary exhibition €9; h9.30am-8pm Wed-Mon)
Opened in 2015 in the port, this offshoot of Paris’ Pompidou Centre is housed in a low-slung modern building crowned by a playful multicoloured cube. The permanent exhibition includes the extraordinary Ghost, by Kader Attia, depicting rows of Muslim women bowed in prayer and created from domestic aluminium foil, plus works by such modern masters as Frida Kahlo, Francis Bacon and Antoni Tàpies. There are also audiovisual installations, talking ‘heads’ and temporary exhibitions.
Muelle Uno PORT
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2Activities
Hammam Al-Andalus HAMAM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 21 50 18; www.hammamalandalus.com; Plaza de los Mártires 5; baths €30; h10am-midnight)
These Moorish-style baths provide malagueños with a luxurious marble-clad setting in which to enjoy the same relaxation benefits as those offered by similar facilities in Granada and Córdoba. Massages are also available.
TTours
oMálaga Bike Tours CYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %606 978513; www.malagabiketours.eu; Calle Trinidad Grund 1; tours €25; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar; 
c) 
S
One of the best tours in town and certainly the best on two wheels. Málaga Bike Tours was a pioneer in city cycling when it was set up a decade ago. Its perennially popular excursions, including the classic City Bike Tour, are available in at least five languages, with kids’ seats on offer if you’re bringing the family.
Daily tours leave from outside the municipal tourist office in Plaza de la Marina at 10am. Reservations are required. Book at least 24 hours ahead.
Alternatively, you can rent your own bike from €5 for four hours.
zFestivals & Events
Semana Santa HOLY WEEK
Each night from Palm Sunday to Good Friday, six or seven cofradías (brotherhoods) bear holy images for several hours through the city, watched by large crowds.
Feria de Málaga FAIR
(hmid-Aug)
Málaga’s nine-day feria, launched by a huge fireworks display, is the most ebullient of Andalucía’s summer fairs. It resembles an exuberant Rio-style street party, with plenty of flamenco and fino (dry and straw-coloured sherry); head for the city centre to be in the thick of it.
At night, festivities switch to large fairgrounds and nightly rock and flamenco shows at Cortijo de Torres, 3km southwest of the city centre; special buses run from all over the city.
4Sleeping
Hotels have been another beneficiary of Málaga’s 21st-century renaissance. Boutique apartments, rooftop swimming pools, funky hostels and throwback Moorish guesthouses are here in abundance.
oDulces Dreams HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 35 78 69; www.dulcesdreamshostel.com; Plaza de los Mártires 6; r incl breakfast €45-60; 
a
W)
Managed by an enthusiastic young team, the rooms at Dulces (sweet) Dreams are, appropriately, named after desserts; ‘Cupcake’ is a good choice, with a terrace overlooking the imposing red-brick church across the way. This is an older building, so there’s no lift and the rooms vary in size, but they’re bright and whimsically decorated, using recycled materials as much as possible.
Feel Málaga Hostel HOSTEL€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 28 32; www.feelhostels.com; Calle Vendeja 25; d €45, with shared bathroom €35, dm from €16; 
iW)
Located within a suitcase trundle of the city-centre train station, the accommodation here is clean and well equipped, with a choice of doubles and shared rooms. The downstairs communal area has a colourful seaside look, with striped deck chairs and mini football; bathrooms sport classy mosaic tiles; and the top-floor kitchen has all the essentials for whipping up a decent meal.
oHotel Boutique Teatro Romano BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 20 44 38; www.hotelteatroromano.com; Calle Alcazabilla 7; r €117-130; aW)
One in a new wave of plush new boutique offerings in Málaga, this place overlooks the Roman theatre and has chocolate-brown corridors leading to sparkling white rooms so clean they look as if they’ve never been used. The whole place is modern, well managed, and studded with interesting design accents. The healthy breakfasts in the bright on-site cafe are a bonus.
Soho Málaga Boutique Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 40 79; https://sohomalaga.sohohoteles.com; Calle Córdoba 5; r €86-118; aW)
The renaissance of the Soho neighbourhood is reflected vividly in hotels like this one, which has added slick new rooms to a handsome 19th-century building. Enjoy plush bathrooms and bedside espresso machines alongside older features such as large French windows and cast-iron balconies. Huge photo prints of Málaga are hung in each room, and there’s a great little cafe downstairs.
Parador Málaga Gibralfaro HISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%952 22 19 02; www.parador.es; Castillo de Gibralfaro; r incl breakfast €130-155; paW
s)
Perched next to Málaga’s Moorish castle on the pine-forested Gibralfaro, the city’s stone-built parador (luxurious state-owned hotel) hums with a sultan-like essence. Like most Spanish paradores, the kick is more in the setting and facilities than the rooms, which are modern and businesslike. Most have spectacular views from their terraces.
You can dine at the excellent terrace restaurant, even if you’re not a hotel guest.
ARTISTIC REVIVAL
Befitting Picasso’s birthplace, Málaga has an art collection to rival those of Seville and Granada, particularly in the field of modern art, where galleries and workshops continue to push the envelope. It wasn’t always thus.
Little more than 15 years ago, Málaga’s art scene was patchy and understated. The first big coup came in 2003, when, after 50 years of on-off discussion, the city finally got around to honouring its most famous son with the opening of the Museo Picasso Málaga. More galleries followed, some focusing on notable malagueños such as Jorge Rando and Félix Revello de Toro, others – such as the Museo Carmen Thyssen, which shines a light on costumbrismo (Spanish folk art) – taking in a broader sweep of Spanish painting. Then, in 2015, Málaga earned the right to be called a truly international art city when it opened offshoot galleries of St Petersburg’s prestigious Russian State Museum and Paris’ Pompidou Centre. Around the same time, edgy street artists put forward the idea of MAUS, an urban-renewal project that has fostered a free creative space in the Soho neighbourhood for street and graffiti artists.
The finishing touches to this colourful canvas were added in December 2016: after 20 years in the dark, Málaga’s 2000-piece-strong fine-arts collection was reinstated in the city’s beautifully restored old customs house down by the port.
5Eating
Málaga has a staggering number of tapas bars and restaurants, particularly around the historic centre (more than 400 at last count), so finding a place to eat poses no problem.
Dulces Dreams Cafeteria CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza de los Mártires 6; breakfast €5-7; h8am-10pm)
Located in an intimate traffic-free square, one of Málaga’s great breakfast spots offers muesli, fruit juice, coffee, and tomato on toast. You might throw all your health commitments aside when you come back for an afternoon merienda – it’s hard to go past the cake case.
Casa Aranda CAFE€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.casa-aranda.net; Calle Herrería del Rey; churro €0.45; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat; c)
Casa Aranda is in a narrow alleyway next to the market and, since 1932, has been the place in town to enjoy chocolate and churros (tubular-shaped doughnuts). The cafe has taken over the whole street, with several outlets overseen by an army of mainly elderly, white-shirted waiters who welcome everyone like an old friend (and most are).
Tapeo de Cervantes TAPAS€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.eltapeodecervantes.com; Calle Cárcer 8; media raciones €4.50-8, raciones €9-16; h1.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 7.30-11.30pm Sun)
The original Cervantes bar-restaurant (there are now four) is a little more boisterous and crowded than the Mesón around the corner, although the menu is almost identical – ie the best in the city.
oEl Mesón de Cervantes TAPAS, ARGENTINE€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 21 62 74; www.elmesondecervantes.com; Calle Álamos 11; media raciones €4.50-8, raciones €9-16; h7pm-midnight Wed-Mon)
Cervantes started as a humble tapas bar run by expat Argentine Gabriel Spatz but has now expanded into four bar-restaurants (each with a slightly different bent), all within a block of each other. This one is the HQ, where pretty much everything on the menu is a show-stopper – lamb stew with couscous, pumpkin and mushroom risotto, and, boy, the grilled octopus!
oÓleo FUSION€€
(%952 21 90 62; www.oleorestaurante.es; Edificio CAC, Calle Alemania; mains €16-22; h1.15-4.30pm & 8.30pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 1.15-4.30pm Tue & Sun; W)
Located at the city’s contemporary-art museum with white-on-white minimalist decor, Óleo provides diners with the unusual choice of Mediterranean or Asian food, with some subtle combinations such as duck breast with a side of seaweed with hoisin, as well as more purist Asian and gourmet palate-ticklers such as candied roasted piglet.
Batik MODERN SPANISH€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 10 45; www.batikmalaga.com; Calle Alcazabilla 12; mains €9-16; h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight; W)
With Málaga’s Alcazaba posing like the Alhambra in the background, this classy but not-too-posh restaurant (you can opt for stools rather than chairs) is where malagueños come to impress a date. The food is about taste and arty presentation rather than quantity, but it packs a punch: octopus with puréed squash and green mole is among the whimsical creations.
Al Yamal MOROCCAN€€
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle Blasco de Garay 7; mains €13-16; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)
Moroccan restaurants aren’t as ubiquitous in Málaga as they are in Granada, but, in the heart of the now trendy Soho district, this family-run place serves the authentic stuff, including tagines, couscous, hummus and kefta (meatballs). The street profile looks unpromising, but the tiny dining room has six cosy booths decorated with vivid Moroccan fabrics and a trickling fountain.
El Balneario de los Baños del Carmen SEAFOOD€€
(www.elbalneariomalaga.com; Calle Bolivia 40, La Malagueta; mains €8-18; h8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; pW)
El Balneario is a wonderful place to sit outside on a balmy evening and share a plate of prawns or grilled sardines, along with some long, cold beverages. Built in 1918 to cater to Málaga’s bourgeoisie, it’s rekindling its past as one of the city’s most celebrated venues for socialising.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TAPAS TRAIL
The pleasures of Málaga are essentially undemanding, easy to arrange and cheap. One of the best is a slow crawl around the city’s numerous tapas bars and old bodegas (cellars).
La Tranca Drinking in this slim, always busy bar is a physical contact sport, with small tapas plates passed over people’s heads.
El Piyayo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 90 57; Calle Granada 36; raciones €6-11; h12.30pm-midnight) A popular, traditionally tiled bar and restaurant famed for its pescaitos fritos (fried fish) and typical local tapas, including wedges of crumbly Manchego cheese, the ideal accompaniment to a glass of hearty Rioja wine.
Uvedoble Taberna (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.uvedobletaberna.com; Calle Císter 15; tapas €2.70; h12.30-4pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W) If you’re seeking something a little more contemporary, head to this popular spot with its innovative take on traditional tapas.
Pepa y Pepe (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %615 656984; Calle Calderería 9; tapas €1.30-2, raciones €3.60-5.50; h12.30-4.30pm & 7.30pm-12.30am) A snug tapas bar that brims with young diners enjoying tapas such as calamares fritos (battered squid) and fried green peppers.
Gorki (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 22 70 00; www.grupogorki.com; Calle Strachan 6; mains €10-13; hnoon-4pm & 8pm-midnight) A tastefully decorated tapas bar for enjoying sophisticated small bites such as mini burgers and sweetbreads encased in light, flaky pastry.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The international brigade has yet to cotton on to the fact that Málaga has one of the raciest nightlife scenes in Spain (and that’s saying something). The city might not be as big as Madrid, but it’s just as fun. The pedestrianised old town is the main hive, especially around Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza de la Merced.
oLa Tetería TEAHOUSE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.la-teteria.com; Calle San Agustín 9; speciality teas €2.50; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat)
There are numerous teterías in Málaga, but only one La Tetería. While it’s less Moorish than some of its more atmospheric brethren, it still sells a wide selection of fruity teas, backed by a range of rich cakes. Along with the cafe’s location next to the Museo Picasso Málaga, this ensures that the place is usually close to full.
La Tranca BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.latranca.es; Calle Carretería 93; h12.30pm-2am Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
You’ll have to elbow your way through the melee to get served in La Tranca, a slim, old-fashioned bar with a rock-band-like following where discarded napkins litter the floor, obscure vinyl sleeves decorate the walls and loud outbursts of song aren’t unusual.
La Madriguera Craft Beer CRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 71 62 11; Calle Carretería 73; hnoon-4pm & 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, noon-3am Sat & Sun)
Craft beer barely registered in Spain a few years ago, but the ‘Rabbit Hole’, as its name translates, is riding a new wave with daily listings of a dozen ever-changing craft beers and an equal number of more permanent light bites to soak them up. A wall chart honours the feats of punters past – 11 pints appears to be the record.
Bodegas El Pimpi BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.elpimpi.com; Calle Granada 62; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, to 3am Sat & Sun; W)
This rambling bar is an institution in this town. The interior encompasses a warren of rooms, and there’s a courtyard and open terrace overlooking the Roman amphitheatre. Walls are decorated with historic feria posters and photos of visitors past, while the enormous barrels are signed by more well-known passers-by, including Tony Blair and Antonio Banderas. Tapas and meals are also available.
Los Patios de Beatas WINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %952 21 03 50; www.lospatiosdebeatas.com; Calle Beatas 43; h1-5pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun; W)
Two 18th-century mansions have metamorphosed into this sumptuous space where you can sample fine wines from a selection reputed to be the most extensive in town. Stained-glass windows and beautiful resin tables inset with mosaics and shells add to the overall art-infused atmosphere. Innovative tapas and raciones (full-plate servings) are also on offer.
3Entertainment
oKelipe FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %692 829885; www.kelipe.net; Muro de Puerta Nueva 10; €25; hshows 9.30pm Thu-Sat)
There are many flamenco clubs springing up all over Andalucía, but few are as soul-stirring as Kelipe. Not only are the musicianship and dancing of the highest calibre, but the talented performers create an intimate feel and a genuine connection with the audience.
Tablao Flamenco Los Amayas FLAMENCO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %686 936804; www.flamencomalagacentro.com; Calle Beatas 21; €25; hshows 7pm & 9pm)
An agreeable performance space on the 1st floor of a slightly faded Málaga mansion with plenty of grandiose touches sets the tone for some raucous music and dance provided by a long-standing flamenco family hailing from Granada.
Clarence Jazz Club LIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %951 91 80 87; www.clarencejazzclub.com; Calle Cañón 5; h8pm-2am Wed & Thu, 4pm-4am Fri & Sat)
American-style jazz club across from the cathedral with some quality concerts and some freer jams, usually on Sunday. It’s advisable to reserve a table at weekends. Prices vary, but €5 is the average.
8Information
Municipal Tourist Office (%951 92 60 20; www.malagaturismo.com; Plaza de la Marina; h9am-8pm Mar-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Feb) Offers a range of city maps and booklets. It also operates information kiosks at the Alcazaba entrance (Calle Alcazabilla), at the main train station (Explanada de la Estación), on Plaza de la Merced and on the eastern beaches (El Palo and La Malagueta).
Regional Tourist Office (Plaza de la Constitución 7; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Located in a noble 18th-century former Jesuit college with year-round art exhibitions, this small tourist office carries a range of information on all of Málaga province, including maps of the regional cities.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Málaga airport (AGP; %952 04 88 38; www.aena.es), the main international gateway to Andalucía, is 9km southwest of the city centre. It is a major hub in southern Spain, serving top global carriers as well as budget airlines
BUS
The bus station (%952 35 00 61; www.estabus.emtsam.es; Paseo de los Tilos) is 1km southwest of the city centre and has links to all major cities in Spain. The main bus lines are Alsa (%952 34 17 38; www.alsa.es) and Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com).
Buses to the Costa del Sol (east and west) also usually stop at the more central Muelle Heredia bus stop.
Destinations include the following; note that the prices listed are the minimum quoted for the route.
| Destination |
Cost (€) |
Duration (hr) |
Frequency (daily) |
| Almería | 19 | 4¾ | 8 |
| Cádiz | 27 | 4 | 3 |
| Córdoba | 12 | 3-4 | 4 |
| Granada | 12 | 2 | 18 |
| Jaén | 20 | 3¼ | 4 |
| Madrid airport | 45 | 10 | 5 |
| Seville | 19 | 2¾ | 6 |
TRAIN
Málaga María Zambrano Train Station (%902 43 23 43; www.renfe.com; Explanada de la Estación; h5am-12.45am) is near the bus station, 15 minutes’ walk from the city centre. Destinations include Córdoba (€27.50, one hour, 18 daily), Seville (€24, 2¾ hours, 11 daily) and Madrid (€80, 2½ hours, 17 daily). Note that for Córdoba and Seville the daily schedule includes fast AVE trains at roughly double the cost.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Bus line A to the city centre (€3, 20 minutes) leaves from outside the arrivals hall every 20 minutes, from 7am to midnight. The bus to the airport leaves from the eastern end of Paseo del Parque, and from outside the bus and train stations, about every half-hour from 6.30am to 11.30pm.
Trains run every 20 minutes from 6.50am to 11.54pm to María Zambrano station, and Málaga-Centro station beside the Río Guadalmedina. Departures from the city to the airport are every 20 minutes from 5.30am to 11.30pm.
A taxi to the city centre costs between €20 and €25.
BUS
Useful buses around town (€1.35 for all trips around the centre) include bus 16 to the Museo Ruso de Málaga, bus 34 to El Pedregalejo and El Palo, and bus 35 to Castillo de Gibralfaro, all departing from points on Paseo del Parque.
Costa del Sol
Regularly derided but perennially popular, Spain’s famous ‘sun coast’ is a chameleonic agglomeration of end-to-end resort towns that were once (hard to believe) mere fishing villages. Development in the last 60 years has been far-reaching and not always subtle, throwing up a disjointed muddle of urbanizaciones, each with its own niche. Torremolinos is a popular gay resort, Benalmádena plugs theme parks and aquariums, Fuengirola draws families and water-sport lovers, Marbella is loudly rich and partial to big yachts and golf, while Estepona maintains a semblance of its former Spanish self. Take your pick.
Torremolinos & Benalmádena
POP 136,000
Once a small coastal village dotted with torres (towers) and molinos (watermills), ‘Terrible Torre’ became a byword for tacky package holidays in the 1970s, when it welcomed tourism on an industrial scale and morphed into a magnet for lager-swilling Brits whose command of Spanish rarely got beyond the words ‘dos cervezas, por favor’. But times, they are a-changing. Torre has grown up and widened its reach. These days the town attracts a far wider cross-section of people, including trendy clubbers, beach-loving families, gay visitors and, yes, even some Spanish tourists. Waiting for them is an insomniac nightlife, 7km of unsullied sand and a huge array of hotels, most of which subscribe to an architectural style best described as ‘disastrous’.
Benalmádena, Torre’s western twin, is more of the same with a couple of added quirks: a large marina designed as a kind of homage to Gaudí and a giant Buddhist stupa.
1Sights
Casa de los Navajas HISTORIC BUILDING
(Calle del Bajondillo, Torremolinos; h11am-2pm & 6-8pm) F
Impossible to miss in the concrete jungle of Torremolinos is this neo-Mudéjar beauty, a mini palace that formerly belonged to a local sugar baron, António Navajas. Originally constructed in 1925 in a style not dissimilar to that of Seville’s Plaza de España, the house was renovated in 2014 and subsequently opened to the public. While there’s no specific museum here, the terraced gardens, detailed architecture and sweeping views from the upstairs balconies are all impressive.
La Carihuela BEACH
(Torremolinos)
La Carihuela, Torremolinos’ most western beach, stretching from a small rocky outcrop (La Punta) to Benalmádena, is a former fishing district and one of the few parts of town that hasn’t suffered rampant over-development. The beachside promenade is lined with low-rise shops, bars and restaurants, and is one of the most popular destinations for malagueños to enjoy fresh seafood at weekends.
Buddhist Stupa MUSEUM, MONUMENT
(Benalmádena Pueblo; h10am-2pm & 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-7.30pm Sun; p) F
The largest Buddhist stupa in Europe is in Benalmádena Pueblo. It rises up, majestically out of place, on the outskirts of the village, surrounded by new housing and with sweeping coastal views. The lofty interior is lined with exquisitely executed devotional paintings.
2Activities
Tivoli World AMUSEMENT PARK
(www.tivolicostadelsol.com; Avenida de Tivoli, Benalmádena; €8, Supertivolino ticket €15; h6pm-1am summer; c)
The oldest and largest amusement park in Málaga province, with various rides and slides, as well as daily dance, flamenco and children’s events. Consider the good-value ‘Supertivolino’ ticket, which covers admission and unlimited access to some 35 rides.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHostal Guadalupe HOSTAL€€
(%952 38 19 37; www.hostalguadalupe.com; Calle del Peligro 15, Torremolinos; s €57-63, d €66-87, 3/4/5-person apt €118/144/171; W)
At the bottom of the staircases that lead down to Torre’s main beach is this nugget of old Spain that sits like a wonderful anachronism amid the concrete jungle. Enter through a delightful tiled tavern and ascend to plain but comfortable rooms, several with terraces overlooking the sea. There’s also a couple of apartments with kitchen facilities for longer stays.
oEl Gato Lounge SEAFOOD€
(%951 25 15 09; www.elgatolounge.com; Paseo Marítimo 1; mains €5-10; h10am-late)
Gato Lounge tries to be a little different from the other places on the beach, so you won’t find the default sardines here. The menu leans towards international dishes with a bit of Asian flair: Thai fish cakes and Japanese carpaccio. The relaxing beach-facing interior has a luxuriant allure, and the cocktails and highly attentive staff mean most people linger.
La Zoca SEAFOOD€€
(%95 238 59 25; www.restaurantelazoca.es; Calle Bulto 61, La Carihuela; mains €15-20; h12.30-5pm & 7.30pm-midnight; c)
Families, take note: this seaside restaurant has a playground across the promenade. The emphasis here is on seafood such as gambas pil-pil (prawns in a spicy oil-based sauce) and rice-based dishes (with five to choose from). The place gets packed with rowdy Spanish families on Sunday, so that’s not the time for an intimate tête a deux.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com) runs services to Málaga (€2.50, 25 minutes, 14 daily), Marbella (€5.90, 1¼ hours, 24 daily) and Ronda (€13, 2½ hours, six daily).
TRAIN
Trains run on the Renfe cercanías line to Torremolinos (Avenida Palma de Mallorca 53) and Arroyo de la Miel-Benalmádena (Avenida de la Estación 3) every 20 minutes from Málaga (€2.05, 18 minutes) from 5.30am to 10.30pm, continuing on to the final stop, Fuengirola (€2.05, 22 minutes).
Fuengirola
POP 77,500
Fuengirola is a crowded beach town decorated with utilitarian apartment buildings, but, despite half a century of rampant development, it retains a few redeeming qualities. Check out the beach – all 7km of it – adorned with a 10th-century Moorish castle. The town also has a large foreign-resident population, many of whom arrived in the ’60s – and stayed (yes, there are a few grey ponytails around).
1Sights
Bioparc ZOO
(%952 66 63 01; www.bioparcfuengirola.es; Avenida Camilo José Cela; adult/child €20/15; h10am-sunset; pc)
This zoo has spacious enclosures and treats its animals very well. It runs conservation and breeding programs as well as educational activities. The grounds also have a bat cave, a reptile enclosure, cafes and a large gift shop.
5Eating
oArte y Cocina MEDITERRANEAN€€
(%952 47 54 41; Calle Cervantes 15; mains €11-20; h7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun; 
v)
The Italian-inflected food here is as fresh as the decor. Expect handmade pasta, and arty renditions of rabbit ravioli and creamy prawn-and-courgette risotto.
8Information
Tourist Office (%952 46 74 57; Paseo Jesús Santos Rein; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun; W) Has a wealth of information on the town.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com) runs bus services to Málaga (€4.25, 50 minutes, 15 daily), Estepona (€6.70, 1¾ hours, 10 daily) and Marbella (€4.25, 30 minutes, four daily). Fuengirola’s bus station is half a block from the train station.
TRAIN
Trains (Avenida Jesús Santos Rein) on the Renfe cercanías line run every 20 minutes to Málaga (€3.60, 45 minutes) from 6.20am to 12.40am, with stops including the airport and Torremolinos.
Marbella
POP 140,750
The Costa del Sol’s bastion of bling is, like most towns along this stretch of coast, a two-sided coin. Standing centre stage in the tourist showroom is the ‘Golden Mile’, a conspicuously extravagant collection of star-studded clubs, shiny restaurants and expensive hotels stretching as far as Puerto Banús, the flashiest marina on the coast, where black-tinted Mercs slide along a quay populated by luxury yachts.
But Marbella has other, less ostentatious attractions. Its natural setting is magnificent, sheltered by the beautiful Sierra Blanca mountains, while its surprisingly attractive casco antiguo (old town) is replete with narrow lanes and well-tended flower boxes.
Long before Marbella starting luring golfers, zillionaires and retired Latin American dictators, it was home to Phoenicians, Visigoths, Romans and Moors. One of the joys of a visit to the modern city is trying to root out their legacy.
1Sights
Plaza de los Naranjos SQUARE
At the heart of Marbella’s casco antiguo (old town) is the extremely pretty Plaza de los Naranjos, dating back to 1485, with tropical plants, palms, orange trees and, inevitably, overpriced bars.
Museo Ralli MUSEUM
(www.museoralli.cl; Urbanización Coral Beach; h10am-3pm Tue-Sat) F
This superb private art museum exhibits paintings by primarily Latin American and European artists in bright, well-lit galleries. Part of a nonprofit foundation with four other museums (in Chile, Uruguay and Israel), it has exhibits including sculptures by Henry Moore and Salvador Dalí, vibrant contemporary paintings by Argentinian surrealist Alicia Carletti and Cuban Wilfredo Lam, plus works by Joan Miró, Marc Chagall and Giorgio de Chirico.
The museum is 6km west of central Marbella near Puerto Banús.
Museo del Grabado Español MUSEUM
(Calle Hospital Bazán; €3; h9am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Mon)
This small art museum in the old town includes works by some of the great masters, including Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí, among the work of other, primarily Spanish, painters.
4Sleeping
Hotel San Cristóbal HOTEL€€
(%952 86 20 44; www.hotelsancristobal.com; Avenida Ramón y Cajal 3; s/d incl breakfast €60/85; W)
Not the most ‘Marbella’ (ie flashy) of Marbella’s hotels, the well-located San Cristóbal dates back to the 1960s. However, regular revamps have kept the place looking solidly contemporary: rooms sport tasteful pale-grey and cream decor and smart navy fabrics. Most rooms have balconies.
oClaude BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(%952 90 08 40; www.hotelclaudemarbella.com; Calle San Francisco 5; d/ste €265/330; aW)
The former summer home of Napoleon III’s wife has updated its regal decor to create a hotel fit for a 21st-century empress. Situated in the quieter upper part of town, the Claude’s arched courtyards and shapely pillars successfully marry contemporary flourishes with the mansion’s original architecture, while claw-foot bath tubs and crystal chandeliers add to the classic historical feel.
5Eating
Garum INTERNATIONAL€€
(%952 858 858; www.garummarbella.com; Paseo Marítimo; mains €9-18; h11am-11.30pm; W)
Finnish owned and set in a dreamy location right on the ‘Golden Mile’ across from the beach, Garum has a menu that’ll especially please those seeking a little gourmet variety. Expect dishes ranging from smoked-cheese soup to Moroccan chicken samosas and red-lentil falafal.
oFarm SPANISH€€€
(%952 82 25 57; www.thefarm-marbella.com; Plaza Altamirano 2; 3-course set menus €24-32; hnoon-11pm; vc) S
First, it’s not a farm but rather an exceptionally pretty restaurant in Marbella’s old town consisting of a patio, a terrace and a dining room furnished with modern ‘chill-out’ flourishes. The food’s all farm fresh and there’s a brilliant selection of set menus showcasing organic ingredients, including vegetarian and kids’ options. Cheap? Not particularly (this is Marbella). Worth it? Absolutely.
Bonus: there are flamenco shows for diners most Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 8pm and 10pm.
6Drinking & Nightlife
For the most spirited bars and nightlife, head to Puerto Banús, 7km west of Marbella. In town, the best area is around the small Puerto Deportivo. There are also some beach clubs open only in summer.
8Information
Tourist Office (www.marbellaexclusive.com; Plaza de los Naranjos; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Has plenty of leaflets and a good town map.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station (%952 823 409; Avenida del Trapiche) is 1.5km north of the old town just off the A7 autovía.
Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com) runs buses to Fuengirola (€4.25, 30 minutes, four daily), Estepona (€4.30, one hour, hourly), Málaga (€7.25, 45 minutes, half-hourly) and Ronda (€7.50, 1½ hours, nine daily).
Estepona
POP 66,500
Estepona was one of the first resorts to attract foreign residents and tourists some 45 years ago and, despite the surrounding development, the centre of the town still has a cosy, old-fashioned feel. There’s good reason for that: Estepona’s roots date back to the 4th century. Centuries later, during the Moorish era, the town was an important and prosperous centre due to its strategic proximity to the Strait of Gibraltar.
Estepona is steadily extending its promenade to Marbella; at its heart is the pleasant Playa de la Rada beach. The Puerto Deportivo is the focal point of the town’s nightlife, especially at weekends, and is also excellent for water sports.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Boutique Casa Veracruz BOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%951 46 64 70; www.hotelboutiquecasaveracruz.com; Calle Veracruz 22; d/ste €85/125; aW)
The ‘boutique’ label barely does this place justice. With its diminutive courtyard, trickling fountain, stately paintings and stylish antique furniture, it’s like a little slice of historic Seville dispatched to the Costa del Sol – and all yours for a very economical sum. Extra touches include Nespresso machines, ample continental breakfasts, and complimentary tea, coffee and sweets available all day.
La Escollera SEAFOOD€
(Puerto Pesquero; mains €8-11; h1-4.30pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1-4.30pm Sun)
Locals in the know arrive at this port-located eatery in shoals to dine on arguably the freshest and best seafood in town. The atmosphere is no-frills basic, with plastic tables and paper cloths. But when the fish tastes this good and the beer is this cold, who cares?
Venta García EUROPEAN€€
(%952 89 41 91; Carretera de Casares, Km 7; mains €12-18; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; p) S
Venta Garcia specialises in superbly presented and conceived dishes using local produce, and the countryside views are similarly sublime. There’s an emphasis on meat like venison (served with a red fruit sauce) and pork: the Montes de Málaga dish executes a local take on pork served with peppers, fried egg and chips. The word is out, though: reserve at weekends.
It’s on the road to Casares, around 7km from the centre of Estepona.
8Information
Tourist Office (www.estepona.es; Plaza de las Flores; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) Located on a historical square, this office has brochures and a decent map of town.
8Getting There & Away
Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com) buses run more than a dozen times a day to Marbella (€4.30, one hour) and Málaga (€9.90, two hours).
Mijas
POP 77,750 / ELEV 428M
The story of Mijas encapsulates the story of the Costa del Sol. Originally a humble village, it’s now the richest town in the province. Since finding favour with discerning bohemian artists and writers in the 1950s and ’60s, Mijas has sprawled across the surrounding hills and down to the coast, yet it’s managed to retain the throwback charm of the original pueblo (village).
1Sights
Virgen de la Peña HISTORIC SITE
(Avenida Virgen de la Peña)
If you walk past the ayuntamiento (town hall), you will reach this gorgeous grotto where the Virgin is said to have appeared to two children who were led here by a dove in 1586. Within the cliff-top cave is a flower-adorned altar in front of an image of the Virgin, plus some religious chalices and pennants in glass cases. It’s a poignant spot despite the barrage of visitors.
Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Mijas MUSEUM
(CAC; www.cacmijas.info; Calle Málaga 28; adult/child €3/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This art museum houses an extraordinary exhibition of Picasso ceramics (the second-largest collection in the world), plus some exquisite Dalí bronze figurines, glassware and bas-relief. There are also temporary exhibitions. Note that, despite the name, this museum is not affiliated with Málaga’s CAC museum.
8Getting There & Away
The quickest way to get to Mijas is to take the half-hourly M122 bus from Fuengirola bus station (€1.55, 15 minutes). There are also four daily Portillo (%91 272 28 32; www.avanzabus.com) buses to/from Málaga (€2.30, one hour).
The Interior
The mountainous interior of Málaga province is an area of raw beauty and romantic white villages sprinkled across craggy landscapes. Beyond the mountains, the verdant countryside opens out into a wide chequerboard of floodplains. It’s a far cry from the tourist-clogged coast.
Ardales & El Chorro
Fifty kilometres northwest of Málaga, the Río Guadalhorce carves its way through the awesome Garganta del Chorro (El Chorro gorge). Also called the Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, the gorge is about 4km long, as much as 400m deep and sometimes just 10m wide. Its sheer walls, and other rock faces nearby, are a magnet for rock climbers, with hundreds of bolted climbs snaking their way up the limestone cliffs.
While Ardales (population 2700) is the main town in the area, most people use the hamlet of El Chorro, with its train station, hiking trails and decent hotel, as a base. Lying 6km west is the serene Embalse del Conde del Guadalhorce, a huge reservoir that dominates the landscape and is noted for its carp fishing. This is also the starting point for the legendary and recently revitalised Caminito del Rey path. The whole area is protected in a natural park.
2Activities
oEl Caminito del Rey HIKING
(www.caminitodelrey.info; €10; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)
The Caminito del Rey (King’s Path) – so named because Alfonso XIII walked along it when he opened the Guadalhorce hydroelectric dam in 1921 – consists of a 2.9km boardwalk that hangs 100m above the Río Guadalhorce and snakes around the cliffs, affording breathtaking views at every turn. Required walks to/from the northern and southern access points make the total hiking distance 7.7km.
The caminito had fallen into severe disrepair by the late 1990s, and it became known as the most dangerous pathway in the world; it officially closed in 2000 (though some daredevils still attempted it). Following an extensive €5.5 million restoration, it reopened in March 2015 and is now safe and open to anyone with a reasonable head for heights.
The boardwalk is constructed with wooden slats; in some sections the old crumbling path can be spied just below. The walk can only be done in one direction (north–south), and it’s highly advisable to book a timeslot online. Buses (€1.55, 20 minutes) leave on the half-hour from El Chorro train station to the starting point, where there’s a couple of restaurants. From here you must walk 2.7km to the northern access point of the caminito, where you’ll show your ticket and be given a mandatory helmet to wear. At the end of the caminito there’s another 2.1km to walk from the southern access point back to El Chorro. Allow about four hours for the walk, as the views are made for savouring.
8Getting There & Away
The most convenient entry point is El Chorro with its railway station. Trains to Málaga (€4.85, 42 minutes) run two or three times daily. There are also connections north to Ronda.
A half-hourly shuttle bus (€1.55, 20 minutes) runs between the train station and the starting point of the Caminito del Rey.
If you’re driving, you can park at either end and use the bus to make your connection.