5 POSTRES
DESSERTS
The truth is, and I know that this makes some people roll their eyes, most of the time I would rather have a perfect piece of fruit at the end of a meal than some heavy pastry. It’s not that I don’t love great pastry—of course I do—but a juicy mango or ripe peach in the summer, a crisp fall apple, or one of the tangerines or blood oranges that come into season in the winter—these are what appeal to to me on a day-to-day basis. Plus, I usually eat enough at a meal that I am quite full by the end of it.
But of course, life is punctuated by special occasions. Thank goodness! And one of the best and easiest ways to mark a special occasion is with a special dessert. I have to say that at Contramar, the desserts on our massive tray are pretty special. Our tray features everything from the traditional Mexican flan to the less traditional Nutella version and my most favorite in-season dessert of all: a bowl of puree made from zapote negro, which is a species of persimmon. There are also deliciously sweet, ripe mangoes and bowls of different types of berries, depending on the time of year. Then we have our staple billowy strawberry meringue cake that never fails to widen the eyes of children and adults alike. My mother religiously consumes one every time she eats at the restaurant. She got her sweet tooth from Nonna, who could eat more sugar than anyone I know.
The dessert menu at Cala features Mexican desserts that people outside of Mexico might not be familiar with, like buñuelos, which are light, crunchy fritters that we serve with homemade cajeta or jams and ricotta. I’m a huge fan of Mexican-inflected ice creams and sorbets because even when you’re full, there’s always room for a little scoop. While cooking outside of Mexico, I’ve figured out that certain key ingredients—chiles, citrus, nuts, syrups, and herbs—almost magically convert anything into a Mexican-tasting dessert.
And when you’ve got the time to make dessert—or you make the time—a dessert and coffee can be the perfect way to continue a meal. Dessert prolongs time spent together, providing something to linger over, savor, and remember.
BUÑUELOS MEXICAN FRITTERS
A common street food eaten late at night in a town square, buñuelos are flat disks of dough, fried and sprinkled with sugar, and often served with either fruit or piloncillo syrup. Sometimes they’re called buñuelos de viento, because they can shatter from the wind alone. At Cala, we like to serve them for dessert as well as for brunch, in a stack, with lightly sweetened queso fresco and jam between the layers. Think of them like tortillas, in that they’re a basic building block of the dessert world that you can add to and embellish as inspired. They’re at their peak shortly after you fry them, when they’re still just slightly warm. Make sure to sprinkle them with sugar immediately as they come out of the oil so that it sticks.
MAKES 20 FRITTERS
¼ cup / 55g butter, softened
3¼ cups / 450g all-purpose flour
1 cup / 240ml warm water
½ tsp salt
½ cup / 60g powdered sugar
1 qt / 960ml rice bran oil, safflower oil, or any vegetable oil with a high smoke point
Ice cream, for serving (optional)
In a medium bowl, knead the butter and flour with your hands until just combined. In a smaller bowl, combine the water and salt and stir to dissolve the salt. Add ½ cup / 120ml of the water to the flour mixture and knead by hand, gradually adding the rest of the water and kneading until smooth, about 5 minutes. Gather the dough into a ball and wrap snugly in plastic wrap. Set aside on the counter overnight or for at least 8 hours.
Flour your work surface and, using a rolling pin, press and roll out the dough until it’s as thin as a tortilla, about ⅛ inch / 3mm. I use a 4 inch / 10cm round cookie cutter to cut out perfect rounds, but you could also use more fanciful cutters to create whatever shapes amuse you.
Spread the powdered sugar on a plate.
In a medium heavy-bottom pot with a candy or frying thermometer attached to the side, heat the oil to 350°C / 180°F.
Drop in the dough circles, working in batches so that you don’t crowd the pot, and let them fry for about 1 minute. Once they are golden, using a slotted spoon, lift each one out of the oil, pausing to let the excess oil drain off, and then quickly place them on the sugar-covered plate, flipping them over so that each side gets coated. Using tongs, transfer the sugared buñuelos to cooling racks and continue with the rest of the dough.
Serve right away, with whatever ice cream strikes your fancy.
ARROZ CON LECHE RICE PUDDING
Rice pudding is the homiest Mexican dessert, something everyone has a simple recipe for and that’s a favorite comfort food for kids and adults; this is the reason it’s not typically found on upscale restaurant menus. That’s why I stubbornly wanted it on the menu at Contramar when we opened, in contrast to all of the glazed mousses and other imported fancy desserts that were the rage in restaurants at that time—as if dessert had to come from overseas to count as special. We make our arroz con leche special by using really good Arborio rice and a combination of evaporated and condensed milks. It’s not inherently fancy, but no one complains! If you happen to have leftover conchas (see this page) or feel like baking, I highly recommend slicing one in half and using it to make a rice pudding sandwich.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1 cup / 200g Arborio rice
4½ cups / 1L plus 65ml water
1 cinnamon stick
1 can (12 oz / 354ml) evaporated milk
1 can (14 oz / 397ml) sweetened condensed milk
Ground cinnamon
Place the rice in a bowl, cover it with water, and let it soak for at least 30 minutes. Discard the soaking water. Place the drained rice in a medium saucepan with the 4½ cups / 1L plus 65ml water and the cinnamon stick. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat, uncovered, and then decrease to a simmer. Cook until the rice is tender, about 10 minutes.
Discard the cinnamon stick and stir in the evaporated milk and condensed milk. Increase the heat to medium-high and continue cooking until the mixture comes to a boil. Again decrease the heat to low and cook, uncovered, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick—about 15 minutes. Place the mixture in a serving bowl and let it cool. Cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to serve.
Serve cold, sprinkled with cinnamon.
FLAN DE NUTELLA NUTELLA FLAN
As a tiny child spending time in Italy, I was obsessed with Nutella. Every kid loves it, and it’s a taste I’ve never outgrown. Back then, Nutella did not exist in Mexico, and I can still remember the excitement when it became available, how we searched for excuses to eat it. At Contramar, we shoved it into an ice cream, and it was delicious. So we decided to experiment by putting it into a flan, which is the most Mexican thing. Everyone loved it, and it has stayed on the menu ever since.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
3 Tbsp / 45ml water
½ cup / 120ml sweetened condensed milk
2 (12 oz / 354ml) cans evaporated milk
⅔ cups / 190g Nutella
4 eggs
Preheat the oven to 325°F / 165°C.
To make the caramel for the bottom of the flan, place the sugar in a small saucepan and cover with the water. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has melted and the liquid is golden but not dark brown. Pour the caramel into a 9-inch / 23cm cake pan with 2½-inch / 6cm-high sides or a 10-cup / 2.4L Bundt pan. Set aside.
Bring a full kettle of water to a boil.
In the jar of a blender, pulse the condensed milk, evaporated milk, Nutella, and eggs. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan.
Place the cake pan in a roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with the boiling water to reach at least halfway up the outside of the cake pan. Bake for 1 hour.
Place the flan on a cooling rack to cool. When the flan has cooled to room temperature, refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.
Carefully place a serving plate over the cake pan and invert the pan and plate together so that the flan falls onto the plate. Pour the caramel that remains in the bottom of the cake pan over the top of the flan and serve. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
FLAN DE ZANAHORIA CARROT FLAN
This is my father’s favorite dessert, which his mother used to make for his birthday every year when he was a boy, making everyone laugh because she was such a sophisticated baker, but he preferred this humble flan made from a puree of cooked carrots. Instead of using condensed milk, this one calls for a blend of milk, butter, and sugar. It’s both rich and fresh tasting and has a unique flavor that a lot of people can’t immediately identify as coming from the carrots. It’s definitely a good dessert to serve when fruit isn’t available.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1 lb 2 oz / 500g carrots
¾ cup / 180ml whole milk
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
⅔ cup / 185g unsalted butter, melted
6 eggs
Topping
¼ cup / 60ml cream
½ cup / 60g powdered sugar, sifted
Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C.
Thoroughly scrub the carrots but don’t bother peeling them. You are going to boil them, so if you need to cut them to fit comfortably in your pot, go ahead and do so.
Place the carrots in a medium pot. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Cook the carrots for about 15 minutes, until just soft. Pour them into a colander and let cool completely. Press out any excess water so that they aren’t too heavy and waterlogged.
Bring a full kettle of water to a boil.
In the jar of a blender, combine the carrots, milk, granulated sugar, butter, and eggs and mix at high speed for about 30 seconds or until you have a smooth mixture.
Grease a 10½-inch / 26.5cm flameproof baking pan with butter. Pour the mixture into the pan. Place it in a roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with the boiling water to reach at least halfway up the outside of the baking pan.
Bake the flan for 1½ hours. Place the flan on a cooling rack to cool. When the flan has cooled to room temperature, refrigerate it overnight.
When ready to serve, place the flan pan on the stove over low heat and warm slightly. This will loosen the sides and help dislodge it. Carefully place a serving plate over the pan and invert the pan and plate together so that the flan falls onto the plate.
To make the topping: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream and powdered sugar until soft peaks form. Slice the flan. Spoon the whipped cream over the top of the flan and serve.
“EL IMPOSSIBLE” CHOCOFLAN CON NARANJA “THE IMPOSSIBLE” ORANGE-CHOCOLATE FLAN
You start making this dessert by pouring chocolate cake batter into a Bundt pan, which is then topped with a raw flan, and somehow in the baking process, they trade places so when you take it out of the oven, the cake has done the impossible and risen to the top. How can this be? Because the cake batter is lighter than the flan, which settles to the bottom. But understanding the science behind the dessert doesn’t make it any less fun to witness. I love a hint of orange with my chocolate, so I’ve added a bit to each part of this: orange flower water to the caramel, orange juice to the flan, and orange zest to the chocolate cake. This is perfectly delicious as is, but you could also serve it with a dollop of whipped cream, flavored with a bit more orange zest. If kumquats are in season, you could also make this even prettier by slicing a few of them very thinly and placing them in the caramel at the bottom of the pan.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Orange Flower Caramel
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
2 Tbsp orange flower water
Chocolate Cake
1 cup / 140g all-purpose flour
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp baking powder
5 Tbsp / 70g salted butter
2 oz / 55g unsweetened chocolate
1 egg
1 cup / 240ml whole milk
Zest and juice of 1 large orange
Orange Flan
3 eggs
1 (12 oz / 354ml) can evaporated milk
1 (14 oz / 397ml) can sweetened condensed milk
1 cup / 240g Queso Fresco (this page) or ricotta, well strained
Zest and juice of 1 large orange
1 Tbsp orange flower water
Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C and butter a 9-inch / 23cm cake pan with 2½-inch / 6cm-high sides or a 10-cup / 2.4L Bundt pan.
To make the caramel: In a skillet over medium heat, combine 1 cup / 200g of the sugar and the orange flower water. Stir as it melts and turns golden. You want it to be orange but not dark brown. Remove from the heat once it has turned orange and smells caramelized but not burnt. Immediately pour the caramel into the buttered cake pan and set aside. Note that it will harden into the bottom of the pan before going into the oven and then melt again in the baking process.
To make the cake: In a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and baking powder.
In a small heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and chocolate, stirring constantly. Melting them at the same time keeps the chocolate from scorching and means you don’t need a double boiler, but you should still pay attention and be sure to turn off the heat as soon as the butter and chocolate are melted. Remove the saucepan from the stove and set aside to cool slightly. After a couple of minutes, when the mixture is warm but not hot to the touch, whisk in the egg.
In a clean bowl, combine the milk and the orange juice and zest and let it curdle for a couple of minutes.
To your bowl with the dry ingredients, add the melted chocolate mixture, followed by the curdled milk. Stir until everything looks well incorporated and then pour your batter into the prepared Bundt pan on top of the caramel.
Bring a full kettle of water to a boil.
To make the flan: Put the eggs, evaporated milk, condensed milk, queso fresco, orange juice and zest, and orange flower water in the jar of a blender and liquefy. Carefully pour the contents of the blender on top of the chocolate cake layer in the cake pan.
Place the cake pan in a roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with the boiling water to reach at least halfway up the outside of the cake pan.
Bake for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and marvel at the magic that has taken place. Your chocolate cake is now on top and your flan on the bottom. Although you will be tempted to flip it immediately, let it cool for 1 hour (while your flan finishes setting). When cool, loosen the edges with a butter knife. Place a serving plate over the pan and invert the pan and plate together so that the flan falls onto the plate.
I recommend making this dessert on the day you intend to serve it. While it can keep in the refrigerator and still tastes good on the second or even the third day, it has a tendency to settle and get a bit heavy.
FLAN DE CAJETA CARAMEL FLAN
Cajeta is the Mexican equivalent of the dulce de leche that’s so popular deeper in South America or the confiture de lait enjoyed in France. To make dulce de leche, you slowly cook milk and sugar to a gooey caramel. But cajeta uses goat’s milk, which adds a subtly grassy taste to the caramel. Making cajeta takes a long time and a lot of patience while stirring. The jarred cajeta that you can buy often contains added corn syrup and other artificial ingredients. To avoid this, without having to take the time to make my own cajeta, I use goat’s milk ricotta in this flan, which gives the same complexity of flavor that you’d get from cooking cajeta from scratch. I love the goat’s milk ricotta from Bellwether Farms in California. If you can’t find goat’s milk ricotta near you, it’s easy to make your own using fresh goat’s milk (which is more widely available) and the recipe for queso fresco. I like to make this flan in ramekins, but you can also make it in a Bundt pan if you prefer.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
1 cup / 240g Queso Fresco (this page) or goat’s milk ricotta
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 qt / 960ml goat’s milk
Packed 1 cup / 180g light brown sugar
6 eggs
1 cup / 240ml evaporated milk
1 cup / 240ml sweetened condensed milk
Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C.
Line a fine-mesh strainer with several layers of cheesecloth. Place the queso fresco in the strainer over a bowl and set aside to drain off the liquid while you make the caramel and the flan.
To make the caramel: Combine the granulated sugar and water in a saucepan and cook at medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the liquid turns a deep amber. Remove the pan from the heat as soon as the liquid darkens and immediately, being very careful, pour a spoonful of this very hot liquid caramel into each of 8 (¾ cup / 180ml) ramekins or a 10-cup / 2.4L baking dish.
To make the custard: Put the queso fresco, goat’s milk, brown sugar, eggs, evaporated milk, and condensed milk in the jar of a blender and blend until well combined. Divide the contents equally among the ramekins or pour into the baking dish.
Bring a full kettle of water to a boil.
Place the ramekins or baking dish in a roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with enough of the boiling water to reach halfway up the outside of the ramekins or baking dish. If you have a cookie sheet or other metal tray that will fit inside the roasting pan, place this on top of the ramekins while they bake; this will ensure that they cook evenly. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the flan is set but still slightly wobbly when you jiggle the baking dishes.
Remove the flans from the roasting pan and place on a cooling rack to cool. Serve warm.
TAMALES DULCES CON MANCHEGO Y ATE SWEET TAMALES WITH MANCHEGO AND QUINCE PASTE
Some people like to finish a meal with a dessert, while others prefer a cheese course. And then there are those who like to have it all. These sweet tamales let you have your dessert and eat your cheese, too. Ate de membrillo, or quince paste, is commonly paired with manchego cheese. Here they are both nestled inside each tamal, providing a melting burst of sweet and sour with every bite. You can make your own ate by cooking down quince with sugar, similar to making jam, but fresh quince can be more difficult to come by than the paste that is widely available at Mexican, Spanish, and other specialty markets. If you want to play around with different fillings, you could also use chopped dried apricots with cheese.
MAKES 12 TAMALES
30 corn husks
2 cups / 520g fresh masa or 2 cups / 260g masa harina, mixed with 1 to 1¼ cups / 240 to 300ml water (as directed on this page)
5 Tbsp / 70g butter, softened
⅓ cup / 65g granulated sugar
6 oz / 170g manchego cheese
6 oz / 170g ate de membrillo
Crema Ácida (this page) for garnish
Begin by placing your corn husks to soak in a large bowl of warm water to soften while you prepare the ingredients.
Place the fresh masa or mixed masa harina in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or, if you prefer to do this by hand with a whisk, in a large bowl. You want to whip up your masa to get as much air into it as you can, making it fluffy. The more it’s worked, the lighter the tamales will taste. After beating it for 3 to 4 minutes, add the butter 1 Tbsp at a time and continue to whip it until it’s well incorporated. Then add the sugar and mix for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.
Cut your manchego cheese and ate de membrillo into 12 equal logs, approximately 2 x ½ inches / 5cm x 12mm. They should look like half of a string cheese stick. It’s not crucial that they be perfectly tidy and uniform as they will be tucked inside the tamales; you just want them to fit within the masa and for each tamal to have about the same amount of both cheese and quince paste.
Take your softened corn husks out of the water they’ve been soaking in, squeezing out any excess moisture. Open one up and place about 3 Tbsp / 55g of the masa mixture in the center of the husk. Use the back of a spoon or a spatula to spread it into a rectangle that’s about 3 x 2 inches / 7.5 x 5cm and about ½ inch / 12mm tall. It doesn’t need to be precise, just big enough to hold the fillings with enough corn husk on all sides so that you can wrap it up and no filling will ooze out. Place one log of manchego and one log of quince paste at the center of the masa and then bring the sides of the corn husk together, sealing the filling inside the masa. Now fold up the bottom of the corn husk so that the whole tamal is contained inside the corn husk, then roll it up from the side. The tamal should be “closed” on the bottom and open on top. Use a second corn husk to bind it further. There really isn’t a science to wrapping tamales. What’s important is that the insides stay as tight as possible and that no masa comes out during steaming. Repeat this process with the rest of the masa and filling. If you want, you can cut one of the corn husks into ribbons and use these ribbons to tie up the tamales for extra insurance.
Once you’ve finished, place a steamer basket in a stockpot and add 2 to 3 inches / 5 to 7.5cm of water. Place all of your tamal packages in the pot and bring to a simmer. Cover the pot and let the tamales steam for 20 to 25 minutes, monitoring about halfway through the process to make sure that there is still a good inch or two of water at the bottom of the pan and adding more water if necessary. After 20 minutes, take one out and open it up to test if it’s done. Cut into one with a knife to ensure that the masa has the consistency of firm polenta and doesn’t ooze at all; the halves should cut cleanly and stay intact. Serve with a spoonful of the crema.
As with savory tamales, these can be cooked, stored in the refrigerator, and then reheated simply by steaming them again, and they will taste just as good as when they were freshly made.
MERECUMBÉ CON NATILLAS SOFT MERINGUE RING WITH CUSTARD SAUCE
I love meringue in all forms. It’s probably my favorite special-occasion dessert because it satisfies my sweet tooth without being too filling and is always enjoyed with fruit. I’m consistently amazed by the variety of textures that meringue can take, from crisp to gooey to cloudlike. My Tía Rita’s merecumbé definitely falls in the cloud category. I treasure this signature recipe of hers, and I make it for very special occasions. The whipped egg whites get pressed into a ring pan on a base of caramelized sugar, then cooked for just 1 hour at a low temperature. The whole confection acquires a crispy edge but otherwise stays soft and spongy after you unmold it from the pan.
Natillas is a custard sauce, made from the yolks of the eggs you use to make your meringue, so nothing goes to waste. This sauce has the consistency of a crème anglaise but a Mexican flavor, thanks to the cinnamon. If you have a large platter with a deep enough rim, you can pour the custard sauce over the whole meringue ring and then scatter it with fruit. In the winter, I recommend using segments of clementine or tangerine. The tart citrus undercuts the sweetness of the caramel and richness of the custard sauce. In the summer, I serve it with berries or sliced stone fruit.
In Mexico, we use a smooth-sided, metal ring-shaped pan with fairly tall sides to make large flans. If you don’t have one, a Bundt pan will work fine.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
7 large eggs, at room temperature and separated
2½ cups / 500g granulated sugar
1 tsp freshly squeezed lime juice
Pinch of cream of tartar
Natillas
4¼ cups / 1L plus 55ml whole milk
1 can (14 oz / 397ml) sweetened condensed milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 cinnamon stick or 1 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch of sea salt
1 Tbsp cornstarch
1 can (12 oz / 354ml) evaporated milk
Seasonal fruit for serving
Fill a large roasting pan with about 3 inches / 7.5cm of room temperature water, so that the water comes halfway up the outside of a ring pan or Bundt pan when it is placed in the roasting pan. Place the pan in the oven and preheat to 325°F / 165°C degrees.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add 1½ cups / 300g of the sugar, the lime juice, and cream of tartar. Resume whipping the whites on low-medium speed for about 5 minutes, while you make your caramel.
Pour the remaining 1 cup / 200g sugar into a 9-inch / 23cm round metal pan or a Bundt pan. Place the pan directly on a stove top burner over medium-low heat. Using oven mitts, hold the edges of the pan and tilt it continuously while the sugar at the bottom of the pan melts. Once the sugar has turned a dark caramel brown color and is totally liquid with no chunks, turn off the burner and let the pan sit there for a couple of minutes, until the melted caramel begins firming up. As the caramel firms, use a rubber spatula to smear it up onto the sides of the pan as evenly as possible, coating the entire interior surface.
Once the whipped egg whites and sugar have doubled in volume and form stiff, glossy peaks, turn off the mixer and pour about one-third of the meringue into the ring pan, on top of the caramelized sugar. As you fill the mold with the whipped egg whites, press the top of the meringue with the flat surface of a rubber spatula to compress it and squeeze out air bubbles. Repeat twice. Once you’ve put all of the meringue into the pan, it should reach the rim without puffing up over the edges. Place the filled pan in the water in the roasting pan and bake for 1 hour.
While the meringue is baking, make your Natillas: Heat 1 qt / 1L of the whole milk and the condensed milk in a Dutch oven or a large heavy-bottom saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the vanilla, cinnamon, and salt and stir. Bring to a gentle simmer. Do not let it come to a boil; you don’t want the milk frothing up to the top of the saucepan.
Pour the remaining ¼ cup / 60ml of the milk into a small bowl or glass measuring cup and add the cornstarch. Stir to dissolve.
In the jar of a blender, blend the egg yolks together with the evaporated milk. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain this egg yolk mixture into the saucepan. Whisk in the milk-cornstarch mixture. Continue to cook over low heat, stirring continuously, for about 5 minutes to firm up the custard. Once you’ve added the egg yolks, do not let the mixture come to a boil. This is meant to be similar to a crème anglaise. It should coat the back of a spoon but not be as thick as a custard. Once it reaches this consistency, turn off the heat and remove the cinnamon stick. Set on a cooling rack to cool before serving, refrigerating it if you’d prefer your custard chilled.
Right after you take the cooked meringue out of the oven, immediately slide the tip of a paring knife around the edge of the meringue to separate it from the pan before it cools and fuses to the pan. Place a serving plate on top of the pan and carefully invert the pan. It may take 5 to 10 minutes, but it will gradually loosen and release from the mold, dropping onto the plate with the caramel side up.
For a dramatic presentation—if your serving plate allows—you can pour the whole pot of cooled custard over the meringue, scatter it with fruit, and cut it into slices at the table. Alternatively, you could cut slices, put them on individual dessert plates, and pour about ½ cup / 120ml of the custard over each slice. Scatter with whatever fruit is in season, from tangerine segments to sliced persimmons and pomegranate seeds in the colder months or berries and sliced stone fruit in the warmer seasons.
PAVLOVA DE FRESAS CON PEPITAS CRISP MERINGUE WITH STRAWBERRIES AND PUMPKIN SEEDS
My mother’s favorite dessert at Contramar is the strawberry meringue cake, with layers of sugary meringue offset by unsweetened whipped cream and tons of sliced berries. For the restaurant version, the pastry chefs pipe long, skinny strips of meringue that we cut into pieces to decorate the outside edge of the “cake.” Unless you’re really skillful with a pastry bag and have time to make meringue pipettes, I recommend making this in a simpler Pavlova shape: one large round meringue disk, topped with cream and fruit and scattered with pumpkin seeds. It’s a lot easier and no less delicious. For another variation, try a layer of lemon curd from the Torta de Limón Amarillo (this page). I have also made a divine version but substituting passion fruit pulp for the lemon juice. These are nice alternatives when fresh berries aren’t in season.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Meringue
5 cold egg whites
1 cup / 200g granulated sugar
Topping
1½ cups / 360ml heavy cream
14 ¾ oz / 420g strawberries, hulled and sliced, or mixed berries
2 Tbsp pumpkin seeds
Preheat the oven to 250°F / 120°C.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and draw a 10-inch / 25cm circle on it.
To make the meringue: Put the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer and chill in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. Using the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites while gradually raining in the sugar 1 Tbsp at a time, until firm peaks form. Continue to whip until the whites are glossy and stiff.
Pile the whipped egg whites onto the circle you’ve drawn on the parchment paper, smoothing the sides and the top with a knife or spatula. You want a shallow depression in the top of the circle; this will serve as the receptacle for your whipped cream and fruit.
Bake for 1½ hours or until completely dry (it should feel dry and crisp to the touch). Turn off the heat but leave it in the oven, allowing it to cool in there. Once the meringue is completely cool, remove the disk from the parchment paper. If you don’t plan to serve it immediately, store it in an airtight container on the counter—do not refrigerate.
To make the topping: In a clean bowl for a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream on low speed for 1 minute, then increase to medium speed and mix for 6 more minutes until thick and airy.
Place the meringue on a serving plate and spread with the whipped cream. Top with the berries and a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds. Cut into wedges and serve. The Pavlova should be eaten right after it is assembled.
TARTA DE LIMÓN AMARILLO CON RICOTTA LEMON AND RICOTTA TART
This is my riff on a classic Italian Easter dessert. In Italy, the lemon in the traditional ricotta tart is a lot less pronounced—usually just a teaspoon of zest—although they also use honey as their sweetener. I like my lemon desserts a little more sour, so I’ve added a layer of tangy lemon curd to the top of this tart, which complements the creamy ricotta filling beautifully.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Piecrust
2 cups / 280g all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp granulated sugar
Pinch of sea salt
¾ cup plus 1 Tbsp / 180g unsalted butter, chilled and cut into little pieces
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp / 75ml ice water
Ricotta Filling
1¼ cups / 300g full-fat ricotta, strained
2 Tbsp honey
Pinch of sea salt
Lemon Curd
⅔ cup / 130g granulated sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
⅔ cup / 160ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ tsp sea salt
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
2 tsp gelatin
2 tsp hot water
1 cup / 220g unsalted butter
1 Tbsp light brown sugar
To make the crust: Place the flour, granulated sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse until the mixture is well combined. Add the butter, one piece at a time, then the ice water. Pulse until a ball of dough forms. Turn out the dough onto a piece of parchment paper. Roll the dough into a 9-inch / 23cm circle. (I like to use a rolling pin to roll it out gently on a piece of parchment paper, until it’s approximately the size of the tart shell but slightly smaller, so that after chilling it, I only have to roll it a little bit more for it to fit inside the pan.) Cover the dough with a sheet of plastic wrap and chill it in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
After 2 hours, finish rolling out the dough by rolling the circle 1½ to 2 inches / 4 to 5cm larger. Fit it into a 9-inch / 23cm tart pan with a removable bottom. After fitting the dough into the pan, trim any excess from the sides so that it has a neat edge. Use a fork to prick the crust and then refrigerate for an additional 15 minutes while you preheat the oven to 325°F / 165°C.
Cover the shell with aluminum foil and scatter some dried beans on the foil to keep it from bubbling up. Bake it for 25 minutes. Then remove the beans and the foil and bake it, uncovered, for an additional 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.
While the crust is baking, make the ricotta filling and the lemon curd.
To make the ricotta filling: Combine the ricotta, honey, and salt in a bowl and mix with a rubber spatula or whisk until well blended. Chill until ready to use.
To make the lemon curd: Begin by vigorously whisking the granulated sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, eggs, and egg yolk in the top of a double boiler or in a bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Keep the heat low enough so that the eggs don’t scramble and stir constantly until the curd is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Place the gelatin in a small bowl with the hot water. Stir until the gelatin “blooms,” or dissolves into a fluff in the water, then whisk this into the pot with the lemon curd. Take the curd off the stove and whisk in the butter while it’s still hot, whisking until it’s melted and incorporated. Chill the lemon curd in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
When all the components have cooled, assemble the tart. Spread the ricotta mixture evenly in the tart crust. Chill in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. Whisk the lemon curd so that it’s perfectly smooth. Pour the curd over the ricotta layer and return the tart to the refrigerator for 20 minutes. Right before serving, sprinkle the brown sugar over the top and torch it until the sugar forms a crackly surface similar to the top of a crème brûlée. You could also place it under a preheated broiler for 2 to 3 minutes but be sure you monitor it closely and don’t wander away, because it takes only a few minutes to go from pleasingly crackly to scorched.
TARTA DE PLÁTANO CON DULCE DE LECHE DULCE DE LECHE BANANA CREAM PIE
Barracuda was Mexico City’s first proper US diner, an establishment dating back to the 1950s. When my partners and I took it over, it made the perfect setting for solo dining, with its long lunch counter and swivel stools. We restored it with a nostalgic vibe that people loved, extending to the menu, which included the burgers and hot dogs you’d expect in such a place. But inevitably, we Mexicanized some of the classics like this banana cream pie, which gets a thick spread of dulce de leche on a walnut crust and a layer of caramelized bananas under a cloud of whipped cream.
You can buy jarred dulce de leche at most Mexican markets, although it originated in Argentina. The Mexican version, cajeta, uses goat’s milk to make the caramel, and it’s also delicious. Either works here, though dulce de leche tends to be a bit thinner and easier to spread. You can also make your own dulce de leche by slowly reducing milk and sugar over very low heat to a sticky jam. No matter what you use, this pie will be delicious.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Walnut Crust
¾ cup / 90g walnuts
Pinch of ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
Pinch of ground ginger
Pinch of baking powder
1 cup / 140g all-purpose flour
5 Tbsp / 70g salted butter, softened
½ cup / 100g granulated sugar
1 egg yolk
6 Tbsp / 90ml dulce de leche or cajeta
Banana Mousse
2 tsp gelatin
2 tsp warm water
2 cups / 480ml heavy cream
2 large or 3 medium very ripe bananas
2 Tbsp sugar
Squeeze of lemon juice
Caramelized Bananas
2 Tbsp granulated sugar
2 large or 3 medium bananas, cut into ½-inch / 12mm diagonal slices
2 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp ground cinnamon or cocoa powder
To make the crust: In a food processor, grind the walnuts, being careful not to overprocess them so that they don’t turn into nut butter.
In a medium bowl, combine the ground walnuts, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, baking powder, and flour.
In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the butter and sugar until it’s fluffy, scraping down the sides with a spatula and adding the egg yolk. Add in the dry ingredients from the mixing bowl and blend until it’s incorporated and forms a ball.
Press the dough into the bottom of a 9-inch / 23cm springform pan or deep tart shell and chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F / 190°C. Cover the nut crust with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for an additional 5 minutes, until the crust looks golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool.
To make the mousse: In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin into the warm water and let it soften. While it does, in the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a clean whisk attachment, whip 1 cup / 240ml of the cream until soft peaks form.
In a food processor or blender, combine the bananas and 1 Tbsp of the sugar, until the puree is smooth and creamy. Into the mixer with the cream, add the softened gelatin, mashed bananas, and lemon juice, and whip for 1 to 2 minutes. Cover and refrigerate the mousse while you make the caramelized bananas.
To make the caramelized bananas: Place the remaining sugar on a small plate and roll each banana slice in it so that both sides of each slice are coated.
In a skillet over medium heat, add the butter and heat until it’s bubbling. Fry the slices of banana in the butter, letting them caramelize on each side but being careful that they don’t burn. The first side should take about 2 to 3 minutes, the second side 1 to 2 minutes. Once the bananas are cooked, remove them from the pan and place them on a plate.
Begin by spreading the dulce de leche or cajeta on the cool walnut crust. Spread it evenly but stop about 1 inch / 2.5cm from the outer edge of the crust. Arrange the caramelized banana slices in a layer on top of the dulce de leche. Spread with the banana mousse.
In a clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the remaining 1 cup / 240ml of the cream with the remaining 1 Tbsp of the sugar. Spread the whipped cream over the banana mousse.
Refrigerate the pie for at least 1 hour to set. To serve, dust the top with the cinnamon or cocoa powder before serving.
PASTEL DE CHOCOLATE Y NUECES SIN HARINA FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE-WALNUT CAKE
When Contramar first opened and while we were still figuring out how to run a restaurant and looking for desserts to put on the menu, we happened to taste this incredibly moist, rich, and delicious chocolate cake, made by a friend of ours. We asked if she’d be willing to make it for the restaurant, and she agreed, so we put it on the dessert tray. Twenty years later, it’s still there, and it’s newly popular, since it’s naturally gluten-free because ground walnuts take the place of flour, which is why it’s so moist.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
1 cup / 120g ground walnuts
¾ cup / 165g unsalted butter
1 cup / 180g semisweet chocolate chips
2 Tbsp freshly brewed espresso
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 eggs
Packed ½ cup / 90g light brown sugar
½ cup / 100g granulated sugar
Pinch of sea salt
Healthy pinch of cocoa powder or ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 350°F / 180°C.
In a food processor, grind the walnuts by pulsing them just until they look like coarse sand.
In a saucepan over very low heat, melt the butter with the chocolate chips and espresso, stirring constantly. As soon as the chocolate is melted, remove the saucepan from the heat, add the vanilla, and let it cool down.
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs until they’re light and fluffy—about 3 to 4 minutes—then add the brown sugar one spoonful at a time and continue mixing until they form stiff, glossy peaks.
Gently fold in the melted chocolate, trying not to lose volume from your beaten eggs. Little by little, add the walnut meal and salt, folding them in as gently as possible just until incorporated.
Grease a 9-inch / 23cm springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. Pour in the batter and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the top and sides start to crack. The center will still look a little wobbly when you remove it from the oven, but this is fine. It tastes great when it’s slightly runny, and it will set more as it cools. Place the cake on a cooling rack to cool.
When the cake has cooled completely, sprinkle with the cocoa or cinnamon, cut into wedges, and serve.
HELADO DE CHOCOLATE CON PALANQUETA DARK CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM WITH PUMPKIN SEED BRITTLE
This ice cream is seriously chocolatey—no messing around. Invest in the best-quality chocolate you can find. It really does make a difference to both the flavor and consistency of the ice cream, producing something that tastes a little chewy, like the gelatos of Italy. Do take the time to make the pumpkin seed palanqueta. Great food is so often about interesting contrasts of texture and flavors, and the crunch of the pumpkin seed brittle, plus a little hint of salt, really pairs beautifully with this decadent dark chocolate ice cream. It takes only about 5 minutes to make this pumpkin brittle, but make sure you have the necessary equipment before you get started. You will need two silicone baking-sheet liners. I use ones that measure 16½ x 24½ inches / 42 x 62cm. You’ll also need a rolling pin and a candy thermometer.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream
6 large egg yolks
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp / 180g granulated sugar
2½ cups / 600ml whole milk
4 oz / 115g dark chocolate (75% cacao), finely chopped
4 oz / 115 milk chocolate, finely chopped
¼ cup / 20g cocoa powder
Brittle
3 Tbsp puffed amaranth seeds
¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp / 180g granulated sugar
1 Tbsp water
¾ cup / 100g pumpkin seeds
1½ Tbsp butter
1 tsp sea salt
1 Tbsp baking soda
To make the ice cream: In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and sugar until smooth and pale, 3 to 4 minutes.
Warm the milk in a large heavy-bottom stockpot over medium heat. When the mixture begins to simmer (but not boil), pour 1 cup / 240ml of the hot milk into the yolk-sugar mixture with the mixer running on low. Decrease the heat under the pot to the lowest setting. Pour the contents of the mixer bowl into the simmering milk while continuously whisking and scraping the bottom of the pot with a spatula. This keeps the eggs from scrambling while the custard forms. Once the steam begins to come off the surface of the mixture and it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, stir in the dark and milk chocolate and cocoa, stirring until fully incorporated. Once the custard is a uniform shade of brown, set a fine-mesh strainer over a clean bowl. Pour the custard into the strainer. Chill the bowl of custard for at least 2 hours. Churn in your ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s directions. Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid and place in the freezer to harden for 2 hours before serving.
To make the brittle: Line a baking sheet with a silicone liner. Scatter the amaranth seeds across the baking sheet.
In a small heavy-bottom saucepan over low-medium heat, combine the sugar and water and stir continuously for 3 to 4 minutes, until the sugar has melted completely and turned amber in color.
Decrease the heat to low. Add the pumpkin seeds, butter, and salt and continue stirring. Using your candy thermometer, take the temperature of the mixture. When it reaches 212°F / 100°C, stir in the baking soda and turn off the heat. Working quickly, pour the mixture on top of the liners over the amaranth. Place the second silicone liner on top and repeatedly roll over it with the rolling pin to spread the brittle as thinly as you can before it begins to cool and set.
Wait about 10 seconds, then remove the top silicone liner. Let the brittle cool for 2 to 3 minutes, then break it into pieces and serve with the chocolate ice cream. Leftover brittle can be stored at room temperature in a sealed container for up to 1 month.
SORBETE DE JAMAICA HIBISCUS SORBET
Agua de Jamaica is probably the best known agua fresca, made by steeping hibiscus flowers, which are deep fuchsia in color and have the acidity of lemons, and then sweetening the drink with plenty of sugar. You can buy bags of these dried hibiscus flowers inexpensively at Mexican markets and health-food stores. Get organic ones if you can. Mint is a delicious complement to the flower, so we’ve added it to this sorbet.
MAKES 1 QT / 960ML
2½ cups / 600ml water
1½ oz / 40g organic dried hibiscus flowers
2 or 3 sprigs mint, leaves pulled from stems
¾ cup / 150g granulated sugar
½ tsp sea salt
1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the water to a boil. Stir in the hibiscus and mint and then remove the pan from the heat and set aside to steep for 20 minutes. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl. Pour the mixture through the strainer, pressing on the flowers and leaves to extract all of their flavor. Transfer the strained liquid to the saucepan and place over low heat. Add the sugar and salt. Stir until the sugar dissolves. If needed, return the liquid to a simmer to ensure that no granules remain.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, until the liquid is chilled. If you want to speed up this step, you can place the liquid in a small bowl that you nest in a larger bowl of ice water. Once cold, stir in the lime juice.
Churn in your ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s directions. Transfer the sorbet to an airtight container and place in the freezer to harden for 2 hours before serving.