Maps and Listings
The small hill of Montjuïc is only 213 metres (699ft) high, but it has an undeniable physical presence that is noticeable from most parts of the city. From along the waterfront it marks the end of the leisure port, and from the Ronda Litoral it acts like a barrier between the inner residential area of the city and the industrial sprawl of the Zona Franca, the gateway to the south.
From high points around Barcelona you can see how densely packed a city this is – the result of its growth having been contained within the natural limits of the River Besòs, the Collserola range, the Mediterranean and Montjuïc.
Escalators were installed on Montjuïc for the 1992 Olympic Games.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Montjuïc past and present
The rocky promontory of Montjuïc has also featured in some of the key events in Barcelona’s history. A pre-Roman civilisation made a settlement here, preferring its rough heights to the humid plain that the Romans later opted for. The Romans did, however, build a temple to Jupiter here, which is thought to explain the origin of the name: Mons Iovis eventually evolved into Montjuïc.
In 1929 the hill was landscaped and used as the grounds of the Universal Exposition. More recently, it was seen by millions of people worldwide as it hosted the opening and closing ceremonies and core events of the 1992 Olympic Games. It was regarded as the ‘nerve centre’ of the Games.
Today it is a large city park offering a wide range of cultural, leisure and sporting activities – a playground used by both residents and tourists. It is a wonderful space for walking dogs and allowing children to run wild, or just for clearing the head and getting a bird’s-eye view of Barcelona, especially its maritime area. Apart from the cable car that crosses the harbour, this is the only place where you can piece together the waterfront at a glance, and watch the comings and goings of the busy industrial port.
Open-air concert in Poble Espanyol.
Poble Espanyol
Plaça d’Espanya 1 [map]
One of the best approaches to Montjuïc is from Plaça d’Espanya, which has good metro and bus connections. (If you are heading for a specific destination, such as the Fundació Joan Miró or the castle, the funicular from Paral.lel metro station is a better option.) Plaça d’Espanya is a large, noisy junction at the southern end of town. Glaring and hot, surrounded by an incoherent mixture of buildings and with little or no shade, it is not a place to linger.
Spare a brief moment, however, to look at the monument to Spain in the middle of the square’s roundabout, commissioned for the 1929 Universal Exposition. The most intriguing thing about it is that Josep Jujol was the sculptor; it is difficult to reconcile this monumental piece with the same artist’s brilliant ceramic serpentine bench in Park Güell (for more information, click here), built at least 15 years earlier. The explanation for the two opposing styles was that the Primo de Rivera dictatorship in Madrid controlled the design of Jujol’s monument to Spain.
The Palau Nacional, designed for the Universal Exposition of 1929, houses a wonderful art museum.
iStockphoto
Las Arenas
The former bullring, Las Arenas, on the other side of the square opened in 1900 with a capacity for 15,000 spectators. It has been converted into a popular commercial centre with shops and restaurants, after standing empty for years. In 2004, city councillors became the first in Spain to declare their opposition to bullfighting, and in 2010 the Parliament of Catalonia passed the law prohibiting it in Catalonia. The last corridas were in the Monumental bullring, near Plaça de les Glòries, in 2011.
Heading up the Hill
Turning your back on the roundabout, head past the twin Venetian-style towers, designed by Ramón Reventós, that formed the main entrance to the Universal Exposition of 1929. Most of the buildings here were designed for this event, with a sweeping vista up to the Palau Nacional, the enormous, rather overbearing building at the top of the steps. The Exposition, opened by King Alfonso XIII, had industry, art and sport as its themes, and was a political tour de force for the Primo de Rivera dictatorship. The hillside was landscaped in accordance with a plan drawn up by Forestier and Nicolau Maria Rubió i Tudurí. Some 15 palaces were built, as well as national and commercial pavilions, a stadium, a swimming pool, ornamental fountains, the Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village), the Greek amphitheatre, several towers and the access avenue.
The view from MNAC over Barcelona.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Fira de Barcelona 2 [map]
It still looks very much like a showground, and today acts as the main headquarters of the Barcelona Trade Fair organisation, the Fira de Barcelona. The showground has additional new premises on Gran Via, the total amounting to 295,000 sq metres (3,175,000 sq ft), including two congress centres. If a trade fair is being held, you may be diverted, but there will be a way to reach all the different activities.
The upper esplanades are reached by escalator; the system of escalators was created for the 1992 Olympics, the next major event after the Exposition to bring enormous change to this district.
Font Màgica 3 [map]
Tel: 010
Opening Hrs: Son et lumière shows May–Sept Thu–Sun every half hour from 9–11.30pm, Oct–Apr Fri–Sat 7–9pm, closed for maintenance at some stage in winter
Transport: Espanya
The imposing Font Màgica, designed by Carlos Buïgas for the Exposition in 1929, has been restored and still delights thousands of visitors during the son et lumière shows, which change every half hour.
Quatre barres 4 [map]
Just behind the fountain four very symbolic columns (les quatre barres) have been erected. Representing the stripes on the Catalan flag, they were originally installed by Puig i Cadafalch in 1919, but demolished by the Primo de Rivera regime in 1928. Their reinstatement has been a moral victory for the Catalan independent movement.
Passeig de la Cascades, on the approach to MNAC.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Pavelló Mies van der Rohe 5 [map]
Address: Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 7; www.miesbcn.com
Tel: 93-423 4016
Opening Hrs: daily 10am–8pm
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: Espanya
Don’t miss the Pavelló Mies van der Rohe, lying low among greenery across the esplanade. Built by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe as the German Pavilion for the 1929 Exposition, it was later dismantled, but, at the instigation of some leading architects, rebuilt in 1986 to celebrate the centenary of the architect’s birth. Its clean lines are quite breathtaking, and clarify the significance and beauty of minimalism. The contrast with some of the other, pompously ornate, buildings of the same time is extraordinary. Van der Rohe’s professor wrote at the time: ‘This building will one day be remembered as the most beautiful of those built in the 20th century.’
CaixaForum 6 [map]
Address: Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6–8; www.fundacio.lacaixa.es
Tel: 93-476 8600
Opening Hrs: daily 10am–8pm
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: Espanya
Across the road is a fascinating former textile factory, Casaramona, built by Puig i Cadafalch in 1911. A gem of modernista industrial architecture, it has been converted by the cultural organisation Fundació ‘la Caixa’ into its centre, the CaixaForum, a wonderful space with an entrance designed by Arata Isozaki. Apart from its own contemporary collection, it holds temporary exhibitions, concerts, debates and music festivals. It’s always worth checking what’s on in this inspiring space, and the building itself is worth a visit.
Summer concert at Poble Espanyol.
Poble Espanyol
Poble Espanyol 7 [map]
Address: Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13; www.poble-espanyol.com
Tel: 93-508 6300
Opening Hrs: Mon 9am–8pm, Tue–Thu, Sun 9am–midnight, Fri 9am–3am, Sat 9am–4am
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: Espanya
Further up the hill is the Poble Espanyol, also built for the 1929 Exposition. The shady green of Avinguda de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia is a welcome relief after the exposed areas of the Fira. The Poble Espanyol has reinvented itself recently and now provides many diversions both day and night, from well-organised activities for kids including treasure hunts in English and arts and crafts workshops, to a tablao, where you can watch flamenco dancing. It is not just ‘family’ entertainment: young people flock here for the buzzy night scene, especially in summer. The village is one of the most popular venues in Barcelona.
It was built as a showpiece for regional architecture, handicrafts, and cultural and gastronomic styles from all over Spain. It has a Plaza Mayor, typical of many squares you might find in any part of the country, where popular fiestas take place. The square is at its best when it stages jazz and rock concerts during the summer months.
Innovations in the village
The entrance is through San Vicente de Avila Portal. Javier Mariscal, one of Barcelona’s most popular designers (he was responsible for the Olympic mascot), put the Poble Espanyol into the limelight in the early 1990s by creating a trendy bar within the gateway, the Torres de Avila. One of the city’s most popular open-air clubs, La Terrazza, opens here in the summer. The village has also opened some new spaces for contemporary art like the Fundació Fran Daurel, with more than 300 pieces, including works by Picasso, Barceló, Miró and Tàpies, and a sculpture garden.
Approaching the Palau Nacional
From here, you can either walk up the hill, following signs to the Palau Nacional, or take a longer walk up Avinguda de l’Estadi straight to the Olympic Stadium. The easiest route, however, is to go back down to the Font Màgica and take the escalator.
In some lights, or at a distance, the Palau Nacional can look imposing and quite dramatic, but on the whole it looks somewhat out of place in Barcelona. However, the museum in this massive building should not be missed.
Modern Art at Palau Nacional.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
The ceiling at MNAC’s dome room.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya 8 [map]
Address: Parc de Montjuïc; www.mnac.cat
Tel: 93-622 0376
Opening Hrs: Tue–Sat 10am–8pm, Oct–Apr 10am–6pm; Sun 10am–3pm
Entrance fee: charge; free first Sun of every month and Sat from 3pm
Transport: Espanya
Since 1934 the Palau Nacional has housed the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya , which has the most important Romanesque art collection in the world, including murals that were peeled from the walls of tiny churches in the Pyrenees in the province of Lleida and brought down by donkey. There is also an excellent Gothic collection and a selection of Renaissance and Baroque art (for more information, click here).
However, after major renovation work under the direction of the Italian architect Gae Aulenti, it also now houses a complete collection of Catalan art, ranging over a millennium. The original collection has been complemented by the 19th- and 20th-century works from the former Museu d’Art Modern, which includes work by Casas, Rusiñol, Nonell and Fortuny, and the decorative arts, including pieces by Gaudí and Jujol.
The museum also holds part of the Thyssen collection of paintings, a coin collection, drawings, engravings and photography. The former Throne Room houses an attractive restaurant, Òleum, while the Terrace bar is perfect for a snack or drink looking over the city. From the steps of the Palau, turn right if you fancy a detour to the museums of archaeology and ethnology on Passeig Santa Madrona.
Roman mosaic at Museu de Arqueologia de Catalunya.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Museu Etnològic
Address: Passeig Santa Madrona, 16–22; www.museuetnologic.bcn.cat
Tel: 93-424 6807
Opening Hrs: summer Tue–Sat 10am–6pm; winter Tue, Thu 10am–7pm, Wed, Fri, Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 10am–2pm and 3–8pm (but currently closed for restoration)
Entrance fee: charge, free Sun from 3pm
Transport: Espanya/Poble Sec
The Museu Etnològic has collections from all over the world, notably Latin America and the Philippines. A section on Japan, the Espai Japó, is an indication of the new cultural (and commercial) exchange between Catalonia and Japan. The museum remains closed for renovation work. Check the website before visiting.
On the same street and in the midst of lovely gardens (the Jardins Laribal) is a small, pretty café and restaurant, La Font del Gat. Further down the hill is the Teatre Grec (Greek amphitheatre; for more information, click here).
Tip
On the way down the hill from La Font del Gat is the Teatre Grec, also built for the 1929 Exposition. Inspired by a model of Epidaurus, the theatre’s backdrop is a solid wall of rock which was part of an old abandoned quarry. During the Grec summer festival it is an important venue for plays and concerts, a magical place to see a good show on a hot summer night.
Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya
Address: Passeig Santa Madrona, 39–41; www.mac.cat
Tel: 93-423 2149
Opening Hrs: Tue–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–2.30pm
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: Espanya/Poble Sec
Just beyond the Teatre Grec is the recently renovated Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya, with finds relating to the first inhabitants of Catalonia, including those in the Greek and Roman periods.
From here, the route will take you down the hill as far as the complex of theatres including the Teatre Lliure and the Mercat de les Flors, which specialises in contemporary dance and movement, featuring many top-level international companies, and the Institut del Teatre, a drama school. The productions here are generally interesting and of a good standard. However, if your main goal is to check out the Olympic legacy on Montjuïc, this detour should be left for another day as it takes you a long way downhill.
Eat
During the Grec Festival in June and July an attractive open-air restaurant operates near the Greek amphitheatre (for more information, click here).
Teatre Grec’s gardens.
Bigstock
Anella Olímpica 9 [map]
The Anella Olímpica (Olympic Ring) is spread across the hillside behind the Palau Nacional and easily accessible from there by escalator. The buildings here appear to be sculpted out of the ridge, with open views to the south dropping down behind them. Despite the passage of time, they are dazzling in the abundant light of Montjuïc.
There are eight Olympic-standard sports centres and three athletics tracks in the area, but if you stick to the road you will see only a fraction of what was created. Fortunately, a walkway on the inland (downhill) side of the main stadium gives access to the central square.
Tip
International sporting events are often held in the Olympic complex, like the FINA World Aquatic Championships in 2013.
The Piscina Municipal de Montjuïc was used for diving events in the 1992 Olympics.
iStockphoto
Estadi Olímpic ) [map]
Address: Av. de l’Estadi, s/n
Opening hrs: summer daily 10am–8pm, winter 10am–6pm
Entrance fee: free
Transport: Espanya/Paral.lel funicular
The Estadi Olímpic was actually built for the 1929 Universal Exposition, following a design by Pere Domènech. Its opening football match was a victory for the Catalan side against Bolton Wanderers – a little-known fact. It remained open until the Mediterranean Games in 1955, then fell into disrepair. Extensive works for the 1992 Olympics involved lowering the arena by 11 metres (36ft) to create the extra seating needed for 55,000 spectators. Most of the track events and the opening and closing ceremonies were held here.
Just outside the stadium a new museum has opened, the Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport (summer Tue–Sat 10am–8pm, winter Tue–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–2.30pm; charge). It’s the first in Europe giving a global view of sports with interactive exhibits, multimedia installations and, of course, coverage of the 1992 Games.
The Barcelona Olympics
Being awarded the 1992 Olympics was a huge boost to Barcelona and Catalonia in the post-Franco years. Seeing it as a golden opportunity to attract investment, update long-neglected infrastructures and reinvent Barcelona as a major player on the European scene, both city and citizens rose to the challenge. After six years of tremendous upheaval, a spectacular inauguration in the renovated stadium on Montjuïc marked the beginning of probably the first ‘designer-Olympics’. Vast crowds passed through the new glass and marble airport, the world’s top athletes settled into brand-new housing in the Olympic Village built on derelict industrial land, and billions of viewers focused on this hitherto overlooked Mediterranean city. What they saw was striking architecture, breathtaking settings for the different events and a city of new urban spaces, renovated facades and public art, to say nothing of new stadiums and sports facilities. It was considered one of the most successful Games in recent times.
Olympic installations
Below and west of the stadium stretches the immense Olympic Terrace, lined with pillars. In the middle of the main terrace is a lawn with an artificial stream flowing through it; on the left is a small forest of identical sculptures. The terrace drops down to a second level in the middle distance, and then to a third – the Plaça d’Europa – a circular colonnaded area built on top of a massive water tank containing 60 million litres (13,200,000 gallons) of drinking water for the city. The whole has the atmosphere of a recreated Roman forum.
On each side of the terrace are key installations: to the left the Palau Sant Jordi, to the right the Piscines Bernat Picornell. In the far distance is the INEFC Universitat de l’Esport.
Torre de Calatrava
There is one highly visible landmark here that caused great controversy at the time, not least with the architects who created the whole Olympic Ring: the great white Torre de Calatrava communications tower (188 metres/616ft), designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, known for his elegantly engineered bridges. Olympic architects Frederic Correa, Alfonso Milá, Joan Margarit and Carles Buxadé hated the tower project, and rallied dozens of intellectuals to their cause. Nevertheless, the Telefònica tower went ahead, and the result is stunning.
The Olympic Stadium lit up for the closing ceremony of the 1992 Games.
Alamy
Other than the stadium itself, the installation most in the public eye is the Palau Sant Jordi ! [map], an indoor stadium designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. The ultramodern design in steel and glass can seat 15,000, with not a pillar in sight.
Since the Olympics, the Palau has proved popular for concerts and exhibitions, as well as sporting events.
Fact
The roof of the Palau Sant Jordi measures 160 metres (525ft) by 110 metres (360ft), and was built on the ground in situ, covered in ceramic tiles then raised slowly using hydraulic pistons. It took 10 days to reach its final height of 45 metres (148ft).
The Palau Sant Jordi, Torre de Calatrava and Olympic Terrace.
Palau Sant Jordi
Parc del Migdia @ [map]
Just beyond the stadium is an expanse of hillside known as the Parc del Migdia, a great spot for picnics. The beautifully landscaped botanical garden, Jardí Botànic (June–Aug daily 10am–8pm, Sept–May 10am–6pm; charge, free Sun from 3pm), is a sustainable garden in keeping with Barcelona’s aspirations for the new century. It contains species from the different Mediterranean climates around the world and has a prized Bonsai collection.
Tip
In July the Grec Festival’s Nit de Montjuïc is an all-night party, with museums staying open late and free concerts and films in outdoor spaces all over the hill.
Palauet Albéniz
Returning to Avinguda de l’Estadi, opposite the stadium are the smaller, more peaceful and elegant gardens of Joan Maragall surrounding the Palauet Albéniz. This ‘little palace’ is now the official residence of visiting dignitaries to Barcelona. It was built as a royal pavilion for the 1929 Exposition, and during the years of self-government in Catalonia – from 1931 until the end of the civil war – it was a music museum.
Exhibits at the Fundació Miró.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
In Fundació Juan Miró.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Fundació Joan Miró £ [map]
Address: Parc de Montjuïc, s/n; www.fundaciomiro-bcn.org
Tel: 93-443 9470
Opening Hrs: Tue–Wed, Fri–Sat 10am–7pm, summer until 8pm, Thu 10am–9.30pm, Sun 10am–2.30pm
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: Paral.lel + funicular
With the stadium on your right, follow the main road until it becomes Avinguda de Miramar. On the left is the Fundació Joan Miró, an understated yet powerfully impressive gem on this sporting hill. Designed by Josep Lluís Sert, eminent architect and friend of Miró, the gallery has been open since 1974.
A Mediterranean luminosity floods the striking building and shows Miró’s work in its best light. One of the largest collections in the world of Miró’s work, it includes paintings, drawings, sculptures and tapestries, as well as his complete graphic work. It also contains the mercury fountain designed by Alexander Calder for the Spanish Republic’s Pavilion in the 1937 Paris Exhibition. It seems fitting that this should be here now: the Spanish Pavilion was intended as a political statement, coinciding as it did with the civil war, was designed by Sert and included Miró’s work and Picasso’s Guernica (for more information, click here). Contemporary exhibitions and concerts are also held here regularly.
Fact
Joan Miró was born in Barcelona in 1893 and studied here, but in 1920 he went to Paris, where he was influenced by the Surrealists. He spent the latter years of his long life – he was 90 when he died – in Palma de Mallorca, home of his wife, Pilar. For more on Miró’s life and work, for more information, click here.
Montjuïc gardens
Just before the municipal swimming pool on the left, scene of Olympic diving in 1992, is the funicular station, Parc de Montjuïc, with the Jardins de Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer close by.
Continue along the road for magnificent views of the port from the Jardins de Miramar, where there are several bars serving food and refreshments, and the impressive Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera. Once a strategic defence point, the Buenavista battery, this is now a cactus garden, described by the New York Times as one of the best gardens in the world. It has cacti from Mexico, Bolivia, Africa and California. A five-star hotel has also opened here, with extraordinary views of the port (for more information, click here).
Alternatively, you could catch the funicular back down to Paral.lel metro station, or complete the Montjuïc experience and take the cable car up to the Castell de Montjuïc for an even better view.
Castell de Montjuïc.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Castell de Montjuïc $ [map]
Address: Carretera de Montjuïc, 66 www.bcn.cat/castelldemontjuic
Tel: 93-256 4445
Opening Hrs: winter daily 9am–7pm, summer until 9pm
Entrance fee: free
Transport: Paral.lel + funicular, cable car
The Castell de Montjuïc was built in the 17th century during the battle between Catalonia and Spain’s Felipe IV, known as the War of the Reapers. At the beginning of the 18th century Bourbon troops ransacked the castle; it was rebuilt between 1751 and 1779. The new fortress was in the form of a starred pentagon, with enormous moats, bastions and buttresses. It was a place where torture and executions took place over many years. To Catalans, it has represented oppression by the central government in Madrid.
It was here that Lluís Companys, Catalan Nationalist leader and president of the Generalitat, was shot in 1940. A statue of Franco was removed from the courtyard soon after his death in 1975. The castle has finally been ceded to the city by central government in Madrid and there are various proposals for its future. The military museum was closed and the rooms around the central courtyard now hold exhibitions related to the historic memory of Catalonia, or themes of repression universally.
The citizens of Barcelona are enjoying reclaiming their castle and it is being used more for leisure activities. An open-air cinema in its grounds is a popular event during the summer.
Tip
A cool tip for summer nights: take a picnic up to Sala Montjuïc, an open-air cinema at Montjuïc castle from July to early August (www.salamontjuic.org; tel: 93-302 3553).
Taking in the view from Castell de Montjuïc.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
The Route Downhill
Descending the hill on foot, you pass through the Plaça del Sardana, with its circle of stone dancers, sculpted by Josep Cañas in 1966. Nearby is the Mirador de l’Alcalde (the Mayor’s Lookout Point), with panoramic views over the waterfront. A new walkway, the Camí del Mar, runs from here to the Mirador de L’Anella Olímpica, giving a new perspective southwards over the delta of the River Llobregat.
Return to Plaça d’Espanya by the escalators, or from the castle take the scenic route down by catching the cable car from the Plaça de l’Armada, in the area known as Miramar, and cross to the port.
There is a pleasant walking route down the hill beginning opposite the Plaça Dante near the Fundació Miró, and leading down steps into Poble Sec, the unspoilt neighbourhood that slopes down the hill. Follow the steep street Margarit and make a detour into Plaça Sortidor, which has an attractive old bar that offers a set lunch menu. Meander downwards through this bustling district, a genuine neighbourhood, where pedestrianised street Blai is full of unusual and attractive bars and restaurants, making it a good nightlife spot.
Alternatively wander down through the Mirador del Poble Sec, a newly landscaped park, or opt for the funicular, which you can board near Plaça Dante. The rail descends a distance of 760 metres (2,500ft) and disembarks at Avinguda Paral.lel, not far from the church of Sant Pau (for more information, click here).
Performers in the ‘Made in El Molino’ show, El Molino theatre.
David Ruano/El Molino
Avinguda Paral.lel % [map]
Avinguda Paral.lel was originally called Calle Marqués del Duero, until in 1794, a Frenchman, Pierre François André Méchain, discovered that the avenue’s pathway coincided with the navigational parallel 44º44’N.
This neighbourhood has always been known as the centre of variety theatre and vaudeville. Its most famous theatre was El Molino, a colourful music hall which, after being closed for years, reopened in 2010 after major refurbishment. It now offers lunch and dinner shows with content ranging from vaudeville to tango, burlesque to flamenco. Its reopening is bringing life back to what used to be known as the ‘Broadway of Barcelona’. Even the world’s most famous chef, Ferran Adrià, has made a serious investment in the area by opening Tickets, arguably the most expensive tapas bar in town.
Where
Paral.lel is a good departure point for heading into the Old Town through El Raval, going down to the waterfront or returning to the centre by metro.
Parc Tres Xemeneies ^ [map]
Parc Tres Xemeneies, just down the avenue towards the sea, is dominated by three enormous 72-metre (235ft)-high chimneys. This is a fine example of a ‘hard’ urban park, with interesting design ideas. The chimneys are the remains of the ‘Grupo Mata’, an electricity-producing plant dating from the turn of the 20th century.