Maps and Listings
The Diagonal is the name of the arterial road that slices through the city at an angle, from its western boundary in the Les Corts district right down to where it meets the sea. Two well-worn clichés about the city are that it has traditionally turned its back to the sea, and that people who live above the Diagonal never venture below it. Neither are now true. The development of the waterfront in the 1990s succeeded in dispelling the former and, along with the whole urban-renewal programme, has drawn uptown people downtown.
Many visitors to Barcelona never make it above the Diagonal, but the Park Güell is among the few isolated pockets here that are well trodden.
At Tibidabo theme park.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Park Güell 1 [map]
Address: Olot, 1–13
Tel: 010
Opening Hrs: fpark daily, May–Sept 10am–9pm, Apr and Oct 10am–8pm, Mar and Nov 10am–7pm, Dec–Feb 10am–6pm
Entrance fee: charge for park, Casa-Museu Gaudí and Casa del Guarda
Transport: Lesseps, then 20-minute walk or Vallcarca, then escalators; buses 24, 92
Designed by Antoni Gaudí, Park Güell is the second-most visited park in Barcelona after the Ciutadella. Gaudí’s faithful patron, industrialist Eusebi Güell, commissioned him to build it along the lines of an English garden suburb.
The estate was to encompass 60 building plots, but only five buildings were completed: the two pavilions flanking the entrance, both designed by Gaudí, and three others inside the park, one of which is today the Casa-Museu Gaudí. One of the pavilions, the Casa del Guarda, has a permanent exhibition on the park, Gaudí and Barcelona in the time of modernisme.
(For more information on Park Güell, for more information, click here)
Tip
Getting to the main sites above the Diagonal is easy. For Park Güell take metro line 3 to Lesseps and walk, or Vallcarca and take the escalators up to a side entrance. The Palau Reial de Pedralbes is also on metro line 3.
The view back from Tibidabo hill.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
The Park Güell is in the upper part of the district of Gràcia 2 [map], also ‘above the Diagonal’ but without the connotations described (for more information, click here). On the contrary, it is a neighbourhood with its own history and distinctive personality, preserved in the narrow streets and squares, which have managed to keep out large-scale projects and expensive residential developments.
Traditionally Gràcia was a barri of artisans. Generations of families remain loyal to the district, and since the 19th century a strong gypsy community has been well integrated here. There are few newcomers, apart from a small number of young people, students and a sprinkling of foreigners charmed by the district’s down-to-earth character.
Posing in Park Güell.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
The vila (a cut above ‘village’) of Gràcia was once reached from Barcelona by a track through open fields (today’s Passeig de Gràcia, for more information, click here). Its established buildings imposed the upper limit on the Eixample, Cerdà’s 19th-century expansion plan for Barcelona; the streets of Còrsega and Bailèn were built right up to its sides. The upper boundary is loosely Travessera de Dalt, and on the western side Príncep d’Astúries, although the official municipal district extends a little further.
Gran de Gràcia
The main route into Gràcia is along Gran de Gràcia, the continuation of Passeig de Gràcia, but it is also well served by the metro (Fontana and Lesseps L3; Joanic L4; Gràcia FGC line). Gran de Gràcia is a busy but elegant street full of shops and modernista apartment blocks. It also has one of the best and most expensive fish restaurants in the city, the Galician Botafumeiro (for more information, click here).
Walking up the hill, take any of the turnings to the right and zigzag up through streets bustling with small businesses, workshops, wonderfully dated grocer’s shops and trendy fashion shops. At night, shuttered doors open to reveal an array of bars and restaurants, ranging from typical Catalan to Lebanese. You need to visit Gràcia both during the day and in the evening to appreciate its charms fully.
Tip
If you visit Barcelona in August you may coincide with the Festa Major de Gràcia, the main festival of the district. For at least a week around 15 August, the patron saint’s day and a national holiday, the narrow streets are extravagantly decorated, music fills the squares both day and night, and everyone has a wild time. It is well worth going along.
A drink in Plaça del Sol.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
The whole area is dotted with attractive plaças; look out for the lively Plaça del Sol, which functions as an unofficial centre for the district. Nearby is the Verdi multiscreen cinema in a long street of the same name; it always shows v.o. (original version) films.
There is an early Gaudí house, Casa Vicens (closed to the public), in Carolines, a street on the other side of Gran de Gràcia, just above metro Fontana. It is worth a quick detour to see the facade of this striking house, which Gaudí built for a tile manufacturer.
Turó Parc 3 [map]
By contrast with Gràcia, a classic example of residential life ‘above the Diagonal’ is the area around Turó Parc, pinpointed by the roundabout Plaça Francesc Macià (on many bus routes), where one begins to leave the 19th-century Eixample and enter the upper reaches of the Diagonal. Modern office blocks, hotels, smart shops and expensive properties are the trademark. In the park, just at the end of Pau Casals (a monument to the famous Catalan cellist is at the entrance), it is not uncommon to see children playing under the watchful eye of a fully uniformed nanny.
Also known as Jardins Poeta Eduard Marquina, the park was a project of landscape architect Rubió i Tudurí, and has two distinct areas. One is made up of lawn, hedges and flowerbeds laid out in a classic geometric pattern, the other contains children’s playgrounds, a small lake and an open-air theatre. Sculptures by Clarà and Viladomat, among others, dot the interior of the park.
From Plaça Francesc Macià the Diagonal is wider and the traffic faster, revving up for one of the main routes out of town. Walk, or catch a bus or tram, to the gardens of the Palau Reial de Pedralbes, passing the shopping centre L’Illa on the left.
Palau Reial de Pedralbes.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Statue of Isabel II presenting her son Alfonso XII, outside the Palau de Pedralbes.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Palau Reial de Pedralbes 4 [map]
Address: Diagonal, 686
Opening Hrs: grounds daily 10am–nightfall
Entrance fee: free
Transport: Palau Reial
The Royal Palace is the result of a 1919 conversion of the antique Can Feliu into a residence for King Alfonso XIII during his visits to Barcelona. It is elegant, and the classical garden peaceful, but it has little sense of history.
The palace is currently closed to the public as its former collections have been moved to the brand new Design Museum (for more information, click here) and it is only used for official occasions. However, the gardens make a pleasant place to stroll and unwind and provide an ideal setting for a new summer music festival featuring an eclectic mix of stars like Julio Iglesias and Antony and the Johnsons (www.festivalpedralbes.com).
The grounds
The garden, built to a ‘geometric decorative outline’ in the 1920s, also by Rubió i Tudurí, integrated the existing palace garden with land ceded by Count Güell. What remains of his neighbouring estate are the lodge and gates, the Pavellons de la Finca Güell (Avinguda Pedralbes, 7; access by guided tour only, Sat–Sun am; charge), designed by Gaudí. Guarded by an awesome iron dragon gate, also created by Gaudí, one building was the caretaker’s lodge and the other was the stable block. The lodge interior is simple but with the distinct stamp of Gaudí, particularly the use of brightly coloured ceramic tiles. Built between 1884 and 1887, this was one of his earlier commissions.
The Monestir de Pedralbes.
Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications
Monestir de Pedralbes 5 [map]
Address: Baixada del Monestir, 9; www.museuhistoria.bcn.es
Tel: 93-256 3434
Opening Hrs: summer Tue–Fri 10am–5pm, winter until 2pm, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am–8pm, winter until 5pm
Entrance fee: charge (combined ticket with MHCB available, for more information, click here), free Sun from 3pm
Transport: Palau Reial; FGC Reina Elisenda
At the top of Avinguda Pedralbes, by the Creu (cross) de Pedralbes, are the welcomingly old stones of the Monestir de Pedralbes. This is one of the most peaceful corners of the city.
The monastery was founded in 1326 by Queen Elisenda de Montcada, widow (and fourth wife) of King Jaume II. She herself took the vows of the Order of St Clare, and today some 20 nuns are still in residence in an adjacent building. The fine Gothic architecture, most notably the unusual three-tiered cloister, evokes the spiritual side of monastic life, while the rooms that are open to the public provide an insight into the day-to-day life of the monastery’s inhabitants. There are some remarkable 14th-century murals by the Catalan artist Ferrer Bassa.
Soaking up the views from Tibidabo.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Sarrià
While up here, take the opportunity to visit Sarrià 6 [map] by taking Passeig Reina Elisenda de Montcada, which leads straight into Plaça Sarrià (also reached in under 10 minutes from Plaça de Catalunya and other central stations on the FGC line). Recognisable as a former village, despite being a sought-after city residence today, it is more charming than Pedralbes, and the wealth more discreet.
This is a real neighbourhood with a market, old ladies in cardigans queuing for lottery tickets, local bars, and the attractive church of Sant Vicenç at the centre of things. The main street leading down from the church, Major de Sarrià, encourages strolling. The pastry shop Foix de Sarrià, founded in 1886, makes an elegant corner. Casa Joana, another old established business and little changed, still serves good home cooking at a reasonable price.
From Sarrià you can get a taste of the Parc de Collserola by taking a walk on the city side of the hill, overlooking the whole of Barcelona (for more information, click here). The trip is equally manageable from the centre with the efficient and frequent FGC train service from Plaça de Catalunya.
The Parc de Collserola is a green belt measuring 17 by 6km (11 by 4 miles), which is on the city’s doorstep. Its 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres) of vegetation border the Ronda de Dalt ring road, and spread over the Collserola range of hills to Sant Cugat and beyond.
This easily accessible area is a bonus to city living. It is best known for its highest peak, Tibidabo (512 metres/1,680ft) and its distinctive skyline, with the Sagrat Cor church, a 20th-century confection, and the Torre de Collserola communications tower forming a dramatic backdrop to Barcelona.
Eat
A feature of Collserola in summer is its merenderos, open-air restaurants where you can order a paella cooked on an outdoor wood fire. You can even barbecue your own food, a popular local tradition on Sundays.
The Torre de Collserola from below.
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
Inside the Torre de Collserola.
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
The funicular
Reach the Parc by taking the FGC train to Peu del Funicular 7 [map] (‘foot of the funicular’), which leads up to Vallvidrera, a suburban village on the crest of the hill where the desirable homes come with a spectacular view. There are frequent services from this station, which, by particular request (at the press of a button), will stop halfway to Vallvidrera at Carretera de les Aigües 8 [map] (for more information, click here), where you may want to continue on foot.
Alternatively, take the funicular as far as Vallvidrera Superior 9 [map], an attractive modernista station in this pleasant village, evocative of the days when city dwellers would spend the summer up here for the cooler air. The air still feels a few degrees cooler, even in the height of summer, and definitely cleaner.
Recommended Walk
If you take the funicular, or ‘funi’, up to Vallvidrera, consider getting off at the Carretera de les Aigües, a track cut into the side of the hill that winds around to beyond Tibidabo. Popular with joggers, cyclists, ramblers and dog-walkers, it is perfect for stretching city legs, particularly on bright blue, pollution-free days, when the views are breathtaking. For an enjoyable round trip, walk as far as the point where the track crosses the Tibidabo funicular, where a badly indicated footpath leads down to the Plaça del Funicular. Once here, catch the tram, or walk to Avinguda Tibidabo FGC station, which will return you to the city centre.
Torre de Collserola ) [map]
Address: Carretera Vallvidrera–Tibidabo, 8–12; www.torredecollserola.com
Tel: 93-211 7942
Opening Hrs: July–Aug Wed–Sun noon–2pm, 3.15–8pm, Mar–June and Sept–Dec Sat–Sun noon–2pm, 3.15–7pm; check website for earlier closing times off season
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: No. 111
The No. 111 bus will take you to the striking communications tower, the Torre de Collserola, designed by Norman Foster for the Olympics and sometimes known as the Torre Foster. Up close it is even more impressive than from afar, with giant stays anchoring it to the hill. A lift will take you up to the observation deck on the 10th floor for a panoramic view 560 metres (1,837ft) above sea level. On clear days you can see as far as Montserrat or the Pyrenees.
The other side of the hill
The Collserola Park on the other side of the hill is another world, yet it is only a short train ride through the tunnel after the Peu del Funicular stop to Baixador de Vallvidrera station (just 13 minutes direct from Plaça de Catalunya). The contrast of the pine-scented cooler air that hits you as the train doors open is quite extraordinary. Walk up a path to the information centre, the Centre d’Informació del Parc de Collserola (www.parcnaturalcollserola.cat; daily 9.30am–3pm), a helpful base with an exhibition about the park’s wildlife, maps and a bar/restaurant.
Close to it is Villa Joana, also known as the Museu-Casa Verdaguer (Carretera de l’Església, 104; Sat–Sun 10am–2pm; free; FGC: Baixador de Vallvidrera), an atmospheric 18th-century house. This is where the much-loved Catalan poet Jacint Verdaguer lived until his death in 1902. It is now a museum dedicated to the poet, with some rooms preserved from the year he died. Various footpaths lead off into the woods of pine and cork oak to fonts (natural springs) and picnic spots. After several days in the steamy city, this area is the perfect antidote.
High flying at the Parc d’Atraccions.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Tibidabo ! [map]
The best-known summit of the Collserola range is Tibidabo, with its legendary funfair. Its popularity means moving in large crowds and queuing, but it still has its charms. You can reach the summit from Sarrià, by walking along Bonanova, which leads to Avinguda del Tibidabo, becoming Passeig Sant Gervasi at the end. It is a tiring street to walk along as it is always congested. The bus journey is more pleasant and offers an interesting slice of life.
However, a trip to Tibidabo is more likely to be a day’s or half-day’s excursion directly from the centre of town. The FGC train goes to Avinguda Tibidabo station. Coming out in Plaça de John Kennedy, pause a moment to take in the colours of La Rotonda, a modernista house opposite, which is due for renovation.
The Tramvia Blau
At the base of Avinguda Tibidabo, the ancient Tramvia Blau (blue tram) rattles up the hill, passing beautiful modernista houses. The avenue’s former elegance is now diminished, many of the large houses having been converted into institutions, advertising agencies or flats.
The tram stops at the Plaça del Funicular, where there are attractive bars and La Venta, a good restaurant with a pretty terrace (for more information, click here).
Sagrat Cor church.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
The Top of Tibidabo
From Plaça del Funicular you can catch the funicular to the funfair at the summit. This lofty playground has been a popular tradition since the turn of the 20th century. It tends to look more interesting from a distance, but the views are spectacular – and children love it. The church, the Sagrat Cor, topped by the figure of Christ, has little charm, but this doesn’t prevent the crowds flocking to it. Floodlit at night, it forms a dramatic part of the Barcelona skyline.
The view from Tibidabo’s hill, over the theme park and city.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Parc d’Atraccions @ [map]
Address: Plaça del Tibidabo; www.tibidabo.cat
Tel: 93-211 7942
Opening Hrs: Mar–Apr Sat–Sun noon–8pm, May–June & Sept Sat–Sun noon–9pm, July Wed–Fri noon–9pm, Sat noon–11pm, Sun noon–10pm, Aug Mon–Thu noon–10pm, Fri–Sun noon–11pm, Oct Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon–8pm, Nov–mid-Dec and mid-Jan–Feb Sat–Sun noon–6pm
Entrance fee: tickets allow unlimited access to the rides; cheaper tickets for just six rides are also available
Transport: Tramvia Blau/funicular from Plaça del Funicular or Tibibus from Plaça de Catalunya
This funfair has a wonderful retro air. Some of its attractions date back to 1901, when the funicular first reached the top, and some are from renovations that took place in 1986. There is also a museum of automatons, the Museu d’Autòmats, displaying pieces made between 1901 and 1954. The tram, funicular and bus run in conjunction with the opening times.
In the aquarium.
Fototeca9x12
CosmoCaixa £ [map]
Address: Isaac Newton, 26; www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es
Tel: 93-212 6050
Opening Hrs: Tue–Sun 10am–8pm, also Mon during late June–Sept
Entrance fee: charge
Transport: FGC Avinguda Tibidabo; 196
A few minutes’ walk from Plaça John Kennedy (walk up Avinguda Tibidabo from the FGC station and turn left onto Teodor Roviralta) is one of the most exciting science museums in Europe, the CosmoCaixa, with plenty of hands-on exhibits and interesting temporary exhibitions for all ages. Even three- to six-year-olds are catered for in the ‘Clik dels Nens’, a space to play and learn in created by the high-profile designer Javier Mariscal.
There are many other innovative ways to enlighten the public on the subjects of science and technology. Among the highlights are the Flooded Forest, a recreation of part of the Amazon rainforest, the Geological Wall and the large outdoor Plaça de la Ciència, with interactive modules. The museum is funded by the affluent cultural foundation of La Caixa savings bank.
Shopping
You’ll find a wide range of shopping opportunities in this large area, from the small boutiques of Gràcia to classy fashion names on and around the Avinguda Diagonal.
Clothing
Camiseria Pons
Gran de Gràcia, 49
A shirt shop from 1900 relaunched in the 1980s to sell contemporary designer clothes for men and women, behind a wonderfully preserved shop front and respecting plenty of original interior detail.
Jean Pierre Bua
Avinguda Diagonal, 467–469
A reference point in the fashion world, this was one of the first shops to bring in major Paris labels and now has one of the best selections you’ll find in Barcelona of top international designers.
Lydia Delgado
Minerva, 21
This Barcelona-based ballerina-turned-fashion-designer creates feminine clothes in gorgeous fabrics and now works in conjunction with her daughter-designer Miranda Makaroff.
El Piano Tina Garcia
Verdi, 20
This small shop and its brother, Piano Man, at number 15 sell well-designed kit at reasonable prices, in this buzzy street in the heart of Gràcia, where you’ll also find plenty of other options.
Malls
L’illa Diagonal
Avinguda Diagonal 557
A cut above most shopping centres, as befits its uptown location, with a good range of designers and up-market brands as well as the favourite chains like Zara and Mango. Also offers a good range of restaurants and snack bars.