SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS
Salads
Salad can be anything from a bit of green with a simple oil and vinegar dressing to an elaborate concoction that contains vegetables and meat or fish with garnishes. It can be a side dish with hamburger, or it can be offered as the main course at a summer buffet dinner. No matter when it is served, or what the ingredients, a salad should always have a slightly tart taste and always be zestful.
If you use greens or raw vegetables, be sure they are fresh and crisp. If you use cooked vegetables, be sure you don’t cook them until they are limp. They should still be “bitey.” If you use meats, use lean, tender pieces with all fat and gristle removed. If you use seafood, be sure it is not overcooked, mushy and tasteless.
Always taste salad before serving it. If it seems a little dull, perhaps it needs a dash of lemon juice or a bit of grated onion.
Serve salad chilled but not icy-cold. Food that is icy-cold has no flavor.
Green Salads
Not so many years ago iceberg lettuce was about the only salad green sold in the average American market. This round, hard head-lettuce was developed by growers because it ships well and keeps well. It’s an ideal product from the viewpoint of shipper and grocer, but of all salad greens it is the least desirable for eating. It tends to be watery and is always tasteless.
The growing popularity of the tossed green salad led to public interest in a more varied choice of lettuces, and today most areas offer a good selection. Any of the following make a good green salad, alone or in combination. Or use them as garnishes and as beds of greens for other cold foods.
Boston lettuce: This round head has loosely packed light green leaves. Tender and delicious.
Bibb lettuce: Small, very compact head lettuce. The leaves are crisp and tender and are small enough to be left whole in a salad. A fairly expensive lettuce, generally sold by the pound.
Romaine: A long, slender, loosely headed lettuce with dark green leaves. The texture is firm and crisp and the flavor clean.
Escarole: This comes in a flat, fan-shaped bunch, shading from yellow at the center to deep green. The leaves are long and slender and curly at the edges. Firm, bitey, with a slightly bitter taste.
Curly endive (chicory): This feathery green comes in a spread-out bunch. It shades from a yellow center to pale green, crinkly ends. It is crisp, with a bitter tang that makes it an excellent accent among other greens.
Watercress: These tiny stalks with the round green leaves are bound together in bunches. The strong peppery taste is a welcome addition to a bowl of greens. Watercress is also a decorative and tasty garnish.
Spinach: Many people think of spinach only as a vegetable to cook. Try tender young spinach leaves in the salad bowl. They have a fresh flavor.
Leaf Lettuce: A loosely formed bunch of tender leaves, growing straight up from the root. It can be green, green tipped with red, or fairly reddish throughout. The red varieties give a nice change of color in salads.
Lamb’s-Tongues or Field Lettuce: This is scarce but worth watching for. It comes in small clumps of tiny, tongue-shaped leaves on delicate stems. It does not ship or keep well and is found only near the areas where it is grown. Most often available in the fall in eastern markets.
Arugala: Also known as “Rocket.” Flat, serrated green leaves that look like overgrown dandelion greens. The texture is coarse and the taste peppery and rather bitter. A good accent for mixed green salads.
Belgian endive: These small, pale stalks look almost like large buds. They are composed of tightly packed, narrow, pointed leaves, shading from white to pale yellow. Rinse them and split them lengthwise into halves or quarters.
To be good, a green salad should be crisp and fresh; not watery and wilted. Choose any combination of greens you like and wash them carefully to remove all grit. Discard any wilted or discolored leaves. Using a clean, absorbent towel, dry the greens thoroughly; if you leave moisture on them it will thin down the salad dressing and give you a limp salad. Do this job gently. Some greens, such as Boston lettuce, are very tender and crush and bruise easily.
Spread the greens out on a fresh towel, roll them up very loosely and put on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator to crisp until you are ready to make the salad.
Green salad should not be made until the last minute. It wilts if it stands too long. Just before ready to serve, break the greens into bite-size pieces and put them in a salad bowl. Now mix a good French Dressing (page 343). Do not doll up delicate greens with chili sauce dressing or chopped pickle or crumbled cheese. Such additions only detract from the crisp, clean taste of the salad. Pour the freshly mixed dressing over the greens and toss lightly with a fork and spoon until each piece of green is bathed with oil. Serve quickly.
There are many ways to vary the flavor of green salad, and some additions turn it into a hearty main course for a summer luncheon. Here are some suggestions:
1. Flavor French Dressing with garlic or herbs.
2. Add onion rings or chopped raw onion.
3. Add sliced raw mushrooms.
4. Add thin strips of green pepper, chopped green onion and chopped celery.
5. Add slices or cubes of avocado and chopped chives.
6. Add cubes of peeled and seeded cucumber, sliced radishes and
chopped raw onion or green onion.
7. Add cooked shrimp, chopped chives and capers.
8. Add cooked crab-leg meat, chopped chives and capers.
9. Add cooked lobster meat, chopped chives and capers.
Chef’s Salad: Add strips of cold chicken, turkey, ham or tongue, and strips of Swiss cheese. Garnish with tomato quarters and sliced hard-cooked eggs.
Note: Some people like to add tomatoes to a tossed green salad. The flavors are complementary, but the tomato seems to make the salad watery. I suggest serving sliced tomatoes or tiny peeled whole tomatoes on the side.
The most common mistake people make with avocados is serving them before they are fully ripe. A green avocado is hard, rubbery and far from delicious. A ripe avocado is rich and soft. How can you tell a ripe avocado? Frankly, it is not always easy, but here are some suggestions.
If you are buying the pear-shaped avocado with the thin green skin, test it by pressing it gently between the palms of your hands. If it has give and feels slightly soft, it should be ripe. The roundish, thick green-skinned avocados may have a little give when soft, but since the skin is thicker it is not as easy to detect. Inspect the stem end of this type. If it looks freshly picked and the stem end is bright green, it is probably still hard. If the stem end has turned dark (but not mushy), it should be ripe. There is a third variety found on the markets. It is round with a very thick, dark skin, rough and almost purple in color. Look at the stem end, if it has dried and darkened, the avocado is dead ripe. When in doubt, ask your grocer to pick one out for you.
A ripe avocado will not keep long. If you do not use it at once, store it in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf, but do not expect it to keep more than 24 hours. If you use only half of an avocado, leave the pit in the unused half, rub the flesh with a little lemon juice and wrap tightly in foil.
Firm avocados can be set aside to ripen at room temperature. This takes from one to three days, depending on how hard they are. The warmer the spot, the faster they ripen. Firm avocados can also be kept in the refrigerator for a week or so. Remove them a day or two before you plan to eat them to allow them to ripen.
Allow ½ of a medium-sized avocado per person. Do not prepare avocado until the last minute. The flesh darkens after it is cut.
AVOCADO HALVES, VINAIGRETTE
Allow ½ avocado per person. Peel them or not, as you choose, cut them in half the long way and remove the pits. Arrange the halves on beds of greens and fill the centers with Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343).
VARIATIONS
With green onions: Add a teaspoon of chopped green onions or chives to each cavity.
With garlic: Flavor the Vinaigrette Sauce with a little grated garlic.
AVOCADO AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD (Serves 4)
1 large or 2 small avocados
1 large or 2 small grapefruit
Greens
Vinaigrette Sauce
Peel the avocado. Peel the grapefruit and cut out the sections, being careful to keep them whole. Slice the avocado the long way into crescent-shaped pieces. Alternate these with the grapefruit sections on a bed of greens. Dress with Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343).
AVOCADO AND ORANGE SALAD
For 4 persons buy 1 large or 2 small avocados and 2 oranges. Prepare as for Avocado and Grapefruit Salad (see above).
AVOCADO AND ONION SALAD
For 4 persons buy 1 large or 2 small avocados and 1 Bermuda or red Italian onion. Peel the onion and cut it in thin slices. Prepare the avocado as for Avocado and Grapefruit Salad. Alternate the avocado and onion slices on a bed of greens, and dress with Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343).
GUACAMOLE (Serves 4)
2 very ripe avocados
1 or 2 chopped green chilies
2 tablespoons lime juice or lemon juice
1 to 1½ teaspoons salt
Chopped fresh coriander (optional)
The avocados must be dead ripe for this Mexican salad. Peel them and mash the pulp until it is smooth. Add the chopped chilies, the lime or lemon juice, and the salt, and blend thoroughly. Heap on a bed of greens and sprinkle with chopped coriander, if you like, or serve as a dip with tortillas or corn chips.
VARIATIONS
With garlic: Add a finely chopped clove of garlic to the mixture.
With tomato: Add ¼ to ⅓ cup peeled, seeded and chopped tomato.
With onion: Add ¼ cup finely chopped yellow onion or green onions.
With Jalapeño: For a spicy guacamole, omit the green chilies and use 1 very finely chopped jalapeño.
STUFFED AVOCADO
Allow ½ avocado per person. Peel it or not, as you choose. Cut in half lengthwise and remove the pit. Arrange each half on a bed of greens and stuff with any of the following mixtures:
1. Chicken or turkey salad.
2. Any seafood salad.
3. Cubes of tomato and chopped green onion mixed with Vinaigrette Sauce.
4. Chopped green pepper, chopped green onion, chopped cucumber and chopped celery marinated in Vinaigrette Sauce.
Vegetable Salads
VEGETABLES À LA GRECQUE
Some vegetables can be cooked in an à la grecque bouillon and then chilled and served on greens, as a salad or hors d’oeuvre course. For the basic à la grecque recipe, see Asparagus à la Grecque, page 384.
Other vegetables that are tasty when prepared in this manner are:
Tiny artichokes
Celery hearts or celery stalks
Cauliflowerets
Eggplant, peeled and cut into fingers
Leeks
Mushroom caps
Tiny white onions
Young green onions (cook them whole)
Zucchini, cut in slices
VEGETABLES IN VINAIGRETTE SAUCE
Cooked vegetables when cooled can be used separately or in various combinations as a salad course. Dress them with Vinaigette Sauce (page 343), arrange them on greens and garnish with mayonnaise, if you like. The following vegetables lend themselves nicely to this treatment:
Artichokes |
Cauliflower |
Asparagus |
Celery root (celeriac) |
Green beans |
Celery |
Beets |
Leeks |
Broccoli |
Tiny green onions |
Carrots |
Peas |
SALAD À LA RUSSE
This term refers to a salad made of cubed vegetables, cooked or raw, bound together with mayonnaise. Sometimes cubes of cold cooked meat are added. Use any combination of the following vegetables:
Cooked green beans, cut in pieces
Cubed cooked beets
Diced carrots, cooked or raw
Cubed raw celery
Cubed raw cucumber
Diced raw onion or chopped green onion
Cooked green peas
Cubed cooked potatoes
Use any of the following meats:
Cubed cooked chicken or turkey
Cubed ham
Cubed tongue
Cubed veal
Mix the ingredients with mayonnaise to taste, heap on a large salad plate and garnish with any of the following:
Anchovy fillets
Capers
Sliced hard-cooked egg
Green or ripe olives
Pimientos cut into strips
Tomato quarters
STUFFED ARTICHOKES—See page 380.
BEET AND EGG SALAD (Serves 4)
5 cooked and peeled medium beets
3 hard-cooked eggs
½ cup (or more) of mayonnaise
Watercress or endive
Chop the beets and the eggs and blend with the mayonnaise. Arrange on a bed of watercress or on Belgian endive, cut the long way.
BEET AND ONION SALAD (Serves 4)
5 cooked and peeled medium beets
1 Bermuda onion or red Italian onion
Vinaigrette sauce or sour cream, lemon juice and salt and pepper
Greens, if desired
Slice the beets neatly. Peel and slice the onion very thin. Arrange the sliced beets and onions on greens, if you like. Dress with Vinaigrette Sauce or sour cream flavored with lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
BEET AND POTATO SALAD (Serves 4)
1 cup of diced cooked beets
1 cup of diced cooked potatoes
1 cup of canned tiny French peas
½ cup of chopped hard-cooked egg
¾ cup of mayonnaise
Chopped green onion
Romaine or watercress
Combine the beets, potatoes, peas and egg, and mix with mayonnaise. Arrange on romaine or watercress and garnish with chopped green onions.
BEETS IN SOUR CREAM (Serves 4)
5 cooked and peeled medium beets
½ cup of Vinaigrette Sauce
Sour cream
Slice the beets and then cut the slices into strips. Soak in the Vinaigrette Sauce for several hours, turning frequently to be sure the beet strips are evenly bathed. An hour or two before serving, drain the beets and mix with sour cream; or arrange on a plate and cover with sour cream.
CELERY SALAD (Serves 4)
1 medium-sized bunch of Pascal celery
1 cup of Vinaigrette Sauce (or more)
Chopped chives or green onions
Romaine
Clean the celery and save the outer stalks and large leaves for flavoring soups and stews. Cut the inner stalks, the heart and the small leaves into fairly small pieces. Pour the Vinaigrette Sauce over them and let stand for several hours to mellow and wilt. Turn the celery often to be sure it is evenly bathed. Serve on romaine with a garnish of chopped green onions or chives.
CELERY ROOT (CELERIAC) SALAD—See recipes in Vegetable chapter, page 405.
CUCUMBER SALAD (Serves 4)
2 medium-sized cucumbers Greens
½ cup of Vinaigrette Sauce (or more)
Peel the cucumbers and cut them into very thin slices. Soak in the Vinaigrette Sauce, turning frequently to be sure they are evenly bathed. Let the cucumber slices stand in the sauce for several hours until they are mellow and wilted. Arrange on a bed of romaine or escarole, if you like.
Season sliced cucumbers with salt and fresh or dried dill weed. Cover with sour cream and chill for 1 or 2 hours.
VARIATION
Add chopped chives and chopped parsley to the sour cream.
CAULIFLOWER SALAD—See Cold Cauliflower, page 403.
DRIED BEAN SALAD (White Pea Bean)—See page 453.
EGG AND ROMAINE SALAD
Break a small head of romaine into bite-size pieces. Slice 4 hard-cooked eggs over the top. Dress with Vinaigrette Sauce and garnish with chopped chives or little green onions. Serve with mayonnaise on the side, if you like.
ENDIVE SALAD
Split 4 of the Belgian endive into quarters the long way and arrange in a shallow salad dish. Dress with Vinaigrette Sauce.
LENTIL SALAD—See page 456.
MUSHROOM SALAD (Serves 4)
1 medium head of romaine
½ pound of raw mushrooms
6 tablespoons of olive oil
2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
Vermouth
Clean the romaine and break it into pieces. Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth and cut them into slices. Put the romaine and mushrooms in a salad bowl. Mix the olive oil, wine vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and add a dash of dry vermouth. Pour over the salad and toss lightly.
ORANGE AND ONION SALAD (Serves 4)
2 large red Italian onions
4 tablespoons of olive oil
2 large oranges
1 tablespoon of orange juice
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Rosemary
Peel the oranges and onions and cut them into thin slices. Arrange the sliced oranges alternately with the sliced onions on a large platter or salad plate. Mix the olive oil, the fruit juices, salt, pepper and a touch of rosemary. Pour over the salad.
RICE SALAD (Serves 4)
1 cup of uncooked rice
6 tablespoons of olive oil
3 tablespoons of wine vinegar
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of black pepper
½ teaspoon of tarragon
¼ cup of chopped green pepper
¼ cup of chopped parsley
¼ cup of chopped chives
½ cup of cucumber, cut into small cubes
¼ cup of chopped green onion
Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343)
Hard-cooked eggs
Pimiento
Boil the rice according to directions on page 168. Drain and mix at once with the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and tarragon. Let stand to cool. Then mix with the chopped green pepper, parsley, chives, cubed cucumber and chopped green onion. Mix in Vinaigrette Sauce to taste, heap on greens and garnish with sliced hard-cooked egg and pimiento strips.
TOMATO SALAD
Allow 1 medium tomato per person. If you wish to peel the tomatoes, plunge them into boiling water for a brief minute. Rinse quickly in cold water. This should loosen the skin so that you can peel it off easily. Or, if you have a gas stove, plunge a fork into the stem end of each tomato and hold it over the gas flame, turning to heat the skin on all sides. Do this quickly, or the tomato will cook and get soft on the outside. Then rinse it quickly in cold water and peel. If you do not mind the peel left on, merely wash the tomatoes well and remove the stem end. Slice onto a bed of greens and serve with Vinaigrette Sauce or mayonnaise.
TOMATO AND ONION SALAD (Serves 4)
Allow 2 tomatoes and 2 red Italian or Bermuda onions for 4 persons. Wash the tomatoes, remove the stem ends and slice. Peel and slice the onions, cutting them very thin. Arrange the tomatoes and onions on a bed of greens and pour a vinaigrette dressing over them.
STUFFED TOMATO SALAD
Allow 1 medium tomato per person. Wash them well, cut out the stem end and hollow out the center of the tomatoes. Fill with any of the following:
1. Cottage cheese mixed with chopped chives and parsley. Serve with mayonnaise.
2. Fill with salmon or tuna salad or any seafood salad.
3. Fill with any meat or poultry salad.
4. Fill with any vegetable vinaigrette (see page 326).
5. Fill with avocado cubes soaked in Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343).
6. In each tomato place a cold poached egg and top with jellied consommé (see Aspic Salad, page 339). Garnish with mayonnaise.
WATERCRESS SALAD, CHINESE STYLE (Serves 4)
1 bunch of watercress
¼ cup of sliced water chestnuts
½ cup of bean sprouts
½ cup of chopped green onions
Vinaigrette Sauce, made with soy sauce instead of salt
Wash the watercress and dry it on a soft towel. Arrange it in a bowl with the water chestnuts, bean sprouts and onions. Make Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343) but use soy sauce in place of salt. Pour this over the salad.
Shredded raw cabbage salad is an old stand-by at picnics and barbecues. If well seasoned, it is tasty and refreshing. Unfortunately much of the “coleslaw” served these days is simply cabbage with oil and vinegar. This vegetable is not a delicate green. It is hearty and has a definite flavor. It needs to be dressed with a sauce that has body, a sauce that can hold its own with the vegetable.
The traditional dressing for old-fashioned, country coleslaw is boiled dressing. Another popular dressing, and one that I find very satisfactory, is sour cream dressing. There are several versions, all good.
OLD-FASHIONED COLESLAW (Serves 4 to 6)
2-pound head of cabbage
4 tablespoons of butter
1 tablespoon of flour
½ cup of water
2 eggs
6 tablespoons of sugar
1 teaspoon of dry mustard
Salt to taste
½ cup of vinegar
Old-fashioned Coleslaw is made with a boiled dressing that has a sharp, sweet-sour taste. It takes trouble, but the results are well worth the effort.
Prepare the dressing first so it will have a chance to cool: Heat water to the boiling point in the bottom of a double boiler. In the top, put the butter and blend in the flour. Slowly add the water, stirring constantly and continue to cook and stir until it is well blended and smooth.
Beat the eggs with the sugar and mustard and add about 1 teaspoon or less of salt. Pour the hot sauce over the egg mixture, stirring as you add it. Return the sauce to the top of the double boiler and continue cooking and stirring until thickened. Do not overcook. Remove from the fire the minute it is done. Add the vinegar last, blending it in thoroughly. Set aside to cool.
Clean and shred the head of cabbage and soak in salted water for 1 hour. Drain well and pour the cooled dressing over it.
SHORTCUT COLESLAW (Serves 4 to 6)
2-pound head of cabbage
1 cup of mayonnaise
½ cup of sour cream
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon (or to taste) of sugar
1 teaspoon of dry mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
Here is a popular modern version of the Old-fashioned Coleslaw. This sauce has the same sweet-sour flavor but takes much less time and trouble.
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and pour over shredded cabbage that has been soaked for 1 hour in salted water.
VARIATIONS
Add 1 tablespoon (or to taste) of horseradish to the dressing.
PUNGENT COLESLAW (Serves 4)
½ of a large head of cabbage
½ cup of mayonnaise
½ cup of sour cream
1 teaspoon of celery seeds
¼ cup of capers
Shred the cabbage very fine. Mix the other ingredients and blend thoroughly with the shredded cabbage. Let stand for 1 hour to mellow.
SOUR CREAM COLESLAW (Serves 4)
½ of a large head of cabbage
1 cup of sour cream
1 tablespoon of sugar
1 teaspoon of salt (or more)
1 tablespoon of vinegar
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
Shred the cabbage very fine. Blend the other ingredients thoroughly and mix with the shredded cabbage. Let stand for 1 hour to mellow.
Use new potatoes for potato salad. Their smooth, waxy texture is pleasing and they soak up the flavors of the seasonings and dressing without crumbling. Older potatoes tend to turn mushy after they are moistened with dressing. Prepare potato salad well in advance so there will be plenty of time to chill it and to let the flavors blend and mellow.
POTATO SALAD 1 (FRENCH POTATO SALAD) (Serves 6)
3 pounds (6 to 8) medium-sized new potatoes
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
½ cup of olive oil
3 tablespoons of wine vinegar
1 cup of chopped green onions
½ cup of chopped parsley
Wash the potatoes and put them, unpeeled, in boiling water to cover. Add a pinch of salt and cook in the boiling water until they are just done. Test by piercing them with a fork. Do not overcook. Drain at once and run a little cold water over them. Do not let them stand in cold water for the potatoes should still be warm when the seasonings are added. Just get them cool enough so that you can peel them without burning your hands. Peel them quickly and cut them into slices. Put them in a deep bowl and add the salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar, mixed. Set aside to cool and then chill in the refrigerator. About 2 hours before you are ready to serve, add the chopped onion and parsley and additional oil if necessary. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if needed. Serve in a salad bowl and garnish with sliced hard-cooked egg, strips of green pepper and sliced stuffed olives.
3 pounds (6 to 8) medium-sized new potatoes
1 cup of white wine
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon of dry mustard
½ cup of finely cut celery
½ cup shaved almonds
¼ cup grated or chopped carrots
⅔ cup of olive oil
Juice of one lemon
¼ cup of chopped parsley
1 cup of chopped green onions
Wash the potatoes and put them, unpeeled, into boiling salted water to cover. Cook in the boiling water until just done when tested with a fork. Do not overcook.
While the potatoes are cooking, blanch almonds in boiling water (see page 8), slip off the skins and then cut them into thin slices. Prepare the celery and carrots.
When the potatoes are done, drain them and run them quickly under cold water until they are just barely cool enough to handle. Do not let them get cold. Peel them and slice them into a deep bowl. Pour the white wine over them and add the salt, pepper, mustard, celery, almonds and grated carrot. Set aside to cool for several hours or overnight.
Two hours before serving, add the olive oil, lemon juice, parsley and onion. Toss well and taste for seasoning. Add more salt if necessary. Serve in a salad bowl and garnish with sliced hard-cooked egg and chopped parsley and chives.
POTATO SALAD 3 (Serves 6)
3 pounds (6 to 8) medium-sized new potatoes
½ cup of finely chopped onion
½ cup of finely chopped celery
½ cup of chopped green pepper
¼ cup of chopped parsley
Mayonnaise
Salt and pepper
Wash the potatoes and put them in boiling water to cover. Add a pinch of salt and cook in the boiling water until just tender when pierced with a fork. Do not overcook. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the chopped vegetables.
Drain the cooked potatoes and run them under cold water until cool enough to handle. Peel them and cut them into small cubes. Place the potato cubes in a large bowl, add the chopped vegetables, bind with mayonnaise and season with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Serve in a salad bowl and top with more mayonnaise. Garnish with pimiento strips, sliced hard-cooked egg, sliced olives and capers.
MACARONI SALAD
Cook 1 pound of elbow macaroni according to directions on the package. Drain thoroughly and prepare as you do Potato Salad 3 (see above).
Meat Salads
CHICKEN SALAD (Serves 4)
2½ cups of cubed cold chicken
1 cup of chopped celery
Mayonnaise to taste
Greens
Garnishes
Cut the cold cooked chicken in even cubes, being careful to remove all gristle, fat, skin and bone. You need pure, lean meat for salad. Combine 2½ cups of the cubed meat with 1 cup of chopped raw celery and blend with mayonnaise to taste. Pile on a bed of romaine or Boston lettuce and garnish with any or all of the following: tomato quarters, sliced hard-cooked egg, capers, pimiento strips, stuffed olives.
VARIATIONS
With nuts: Add ½ cup of chopped, toasted almonds, walnuts, filberts or pecans.
With green onion: Add ½ cup of chopped green onion.
TURKEY SALAD
Follow directions for Chicken Salad (see above), substituting turkey for the chicken.
Follow directions for Chicken Salad (see page 337), substituting veal for the chicken.
LAMB SALAD (Serves 4)
2½ cups of cubed cold lamb
1 cup of Vinaigrette Sauce
½ cup of chopped celery
½ cup of chopped green onion
½ cup of toasted almonds
Curry mayonnaise to taste
Greens
Pickles
Cut the cold lamb into even-sized cubes, being careful to remove all fat and gristle. Soak in the Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343) for several hours, turning frequently to be sure the meat is evenly bathed. Drain and mix with the celery, green onion and toasted almonds, and blend in Curry Mayonnaise (page 345) to taste. Pile on a bed of romaine and garnish with a good sharp pickle.
BEEF SALAD—See page 214.
HAM SALAD
2½ cups of cubed ham
½ cup of chopped celery
½ cup of chopped green onion
¼ cup of chopped gherkins
Mustard Mayonnaise
Greens
Hard-cooked egg
Cut the ham into even cubes, being careful to remove all fat and gristle. Mix with the celery, onion and gherkins, and blend with Mustard Mayonnaise (page 345) to taste. Pile on a bed of romaine or Boston lettuce and garnish with sliced hard-cooked egg.
VARIATION
Substitute cubed tongue for half of the ham.
BASIC ASPIC FOR SALADS
A good consommé (see Soup chapter) is an excellent base for an aspic salad. If you have started your broth with veal bone the consommé should jelly of its own accord when cold. If it is too runny to hold a firm shape but is partly thickened, add ½ envelope of unflavored gelatin to each 1½ cups of consommé. Dissolve the gelatin in ¼ cup of cold water. Heat the consommé, stir in the dissolved gelatin until melted, and then cool. If the consommé is completely runny, use a whole envelope of unflavored gelatin and proceed in the same manner, dissolving the gelatin in ½ cup of water.
QUICK ASPIC FOR SALADS
¾ cup of hot water
1 bouillon cube
Pinch of thyme
Dash of Worcestershire sauce
1 envelope of unflavored gelatin
½ cup of cold water
½ cup of tomato juice
Heat ¾ of a cup of water with the bouillon cube, the thyme and the Worcestershire sauce. When the bouillon cube is dissolved and the mixture blended, remove from the stove and strain. Dissolve the gelatin in the cold water, stir it into the hot bouillon mixture until melted and then add the tomato juice.
ASPIC SALADS
Use individual molds or one large mold. Brush the molds with olive oil. Then pour a thin layer of warm consommé aspic or Quick Aspic (see above) in the bottom and chill. When firm add the first layer of vegetables, cold meats or hard-cooked eggs and more aspic. Place in the refrigerator to chill until almost firm. Meanwhile, chill the rest of the consommé or bouillon aspic until thick but still runny. Do not let it get firm. When the first layer of the aspic is almost firm, fold the second layer of ingredients into the slightly thickened aspic and pour into the mold. Put back in the refrigerator to finish setting.
Unmolding aspic: Dip the bottom part of the mold into a pan of hot water. Take it out quickly to prevent the aspic from melting. Run a spatula around the edges of the mold, turn it upside down on a bed of greens and shake gently. If the aspic does not come out easily at once, lift one side of the mold slightly, and while still holding it upside down, run the spatula down the side. Turn the mold around and repeat on all sides.
Garnish with olives, pimientos, tomato quarters, stuffed eggs or any cold food you choose. Serve with mayonnaise.
SUGGESTED COMBINATIONS FOR ASPIC SALADS
Allow 1½ to 2 cups of aspic made of consommé or broth and about 2 cups of vegetables or meats for a salad for 4 persons. Here are some suggestions:
With poached eggs: Poach 4 eggs according to directions in the Egg chapter, page 89. Remove them from the hot water and drain thoroughly on absorbent paper. Trim the edges neatly and allow them to cool. Place them at the bottom of a mold, cover with aspic and chill (see above). Fold ½ cup of cooked green peas (or canned petits pois), ¼ cup of finely chopped green onion and ¼ cup of chopped pimiento into the rest of the aspic for the top layer.
With stuffed eggs: Put 4 stuffed eggs (page 35) on the bottom layer and top with ¼ cup of chopped green pepper, ¼ cup of chopped green onion and ½ cup of cut green beans (cooked and cooled).
With ham: Put 1½ cups of cubed ham on the bottom layer and top with ¼ cup of chopped chives and ¾ cup of chopped parsley.
With avocado: Cut 1 large or 2 small avocados into crescent-shaped slices (see Avocados, page 324) and arrange in the bottom of the mold. In the top layer put ¼ cup of chopped green pepper, ¼ cup of chopped green onion and ½ cup of cubed (and thoroughly drained) ripe tomato.
With cubed vegetables and meat: Use any combination of the cubed vegetables and meats suggested under Salad à la Russe (page 327).
COLD BOILED BEEF IN ASPIC
Prepare beef as for Cold Boiled Beef (see page 213). After the meat is firmly pressed and cold, cut it into thin, uniform slices and trim them neatly. Arrange in a mold with any garnishes you choose: sliced hard-cooked egg, stuffed olives, pimiento strips, onion rings. Pour consommé or aspic over the meat and let it jelly in the refrigerator.
COLD CHICKEN IN ASPIC—See page 308.
Fish and Shellfish Salads
TUNA SALAD PLATE
The finest canned tuna is solid-pack white meat and the best comes from France. This is not because European tuna is any better than our own, but because the fish is packed in olive oil, which gives it a richer flavor and a moist, yet firm, texture. There are also several good brands of Italian tuna packed in olive oil.
For each serving use 1 small (6½-ounce) can of tuna. Open the tin, drain off the oil and arrange the tuna in one piece, as it comes from the can, in the center of a bed of greens. Garnish with raw onion rings or paper thin slices of Bermuda or red Italian onions, sliced hard-cooked eggs and capers. Serve mayonnaise separately.
SALAD NIÇOISE (Serves 4)
2 6½-ounce cans of solid white meat tuna
Greens
3 cans of anchovy fillets
4 ripe tomatoes
4 hard-cooked eggs
Pimientos
Ripe olives
Vinaigrette Sauce (page 343)
Open the tins of tuna and drain off the oil. Place the tuna in the center of a large platter covered with greens. Open the anchovy tins and arrange the fillets around the edge of the tuna. Wash the tomatoes and quarter them. Quarter the hard-cooked eggs. Arrange these around the edge of the platter. Garnish with strips of pimiento and ripe olives and serve with Vinaigrette Sauce.
2 6½-ounce cans of tuna
1 cup of chopped celery
½ cup of chopped green onion
Mayonnaise
Greens
4 tomatoes
4 hard-cooked eggs
Lemon wedges
Open the canned tuna and drain off the oil. Flake the fish and combine it with the celery and onion. Blend with mayonnaise to taste and arrange on a bed of greens. Wash the tomatoes and cut them in quarters. Quarter the hard-cooked eggs. Arrange these around the tuna salad. Serve with additional mayonnaise and lemon wedges.
SALMON SALAD PLATE
Buy firmly packed, canned salmon that can be served in one piece. Remove any skin or bone and prepare as for Tuna Salad above, but substitute sliced cucumbers for the sliced eggs in the garnish.
MIXED SALMON SALAD
Follow directions for Mixed Tuna Salad, substituting salmon for the tuna.
BASIC SEAFOOD SALAD (Serves 4)
Do not try to stretch seafood. Serve good-sized hunks of crab, lobster or shrimp and allow at least ½ cup per person.
2 or more cups of crab, shrimp or lobster
Greens
Mayonnaise or other dressing
Garnishes
Arrange the seafood on a bed of greens and mask with mayonnaise, Green Mayonnaise or Sauce Rémoulade. Garnish with any of the following:
Sliced avocado
Capers
Quartered hard-cooked eggs
Chopped parsley and chives
Tiny green onions
Small celery stalk from the center of the bunch
Strips of green pepper
Ripe olives
Pimiento strips
Anchovy fillets
Tiny artichoke hearts, vinaigrette
Asparagus, vinaigrette or à la grecque
Tomato quarters
Small tomatoes hollowed out and stuffed with mixed cooked vegetable salad.
Fruit as a Salad Course
The usual fruit salad—a mixture of sweet fruit dressed with mayonnaise, whipped cream or sweet dressing—hardly makes sense as a salad course. It is much more of a dessert. Some tart fruits mixed with greens make a nice contrast with rich meat dishes (see Orange and Onion Salad, page 331), but if you like to follow the meat course with sweet fruit, it seems wiser to serve it plain with a good sharp cheese and let it take the place of a sweet or dessert course.
If you insist on serving fruit as a salad, don’t cut it into cubes and mix it up. Slice or halve the fruit and arrange it neatly on a platter of greens. Dress with a French Dressing and use lemon juice in place of the vinegar in the dressing. No sugar.
Salad Dressings
FRENCH DRESSING (VINAIGRETTE SAUCE)
Basic French Dressing is simply oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. The secret to a good dressing is in the quality of the oil and vinegar. Get good olive oil.
As for vinegar, look for a good wine vinegar. There are some on the market that are too sharp. Either red or white will do, but the white tends to be milder, or use a sherry vinegar. Another good vinegar for this dressing is a pear vinegar made in California. If you can’t find a mild vinegar, you can substitute lemon juice.
Use freshly ground black pepper. It is always spicier and has a more definite flavor.
Now for proportions. Tastes vary, but most people prefer 3 or 4 parts of oil to 1 of vinegar. This depends, of course, on the heaviness of the oil and the sharpness of the vinegar. Taste and try. Salt and pepper to taste.
Avoid these mistakes:
Don’t use sugar. If the vinegar is mild, as it should be, no sweetening is necessary.
Don’t use prepared herbed vinegars. Herbs are a fine touch to a green salad, but mix them in yourself from your herb collection. Your salad will taste fresher.
Don’t mix the dressing hours before you intend to use it. The fresher it is, the better.
Don’t store the dressing or the oil in the refrigerator. Olive oil gets cloudy and sluggish if it is too cold. Keep it at room temperature.
VARIATION ON FRENCH DRESSING
With garlic: Add minced garlic to taste.
With an herb: Add dried or fresh herbs. Tarragon, chervil, chives all go excellently with greens. If you are using the dressing on sliced tomatoes, basil is a good addition.
MAYONNAISE
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon of salt
½ teaspoon of dry mustard
¼ teaspoon of freshly ground pepper
1½ cups of olive oil
Lemon juice or wine vinegar to taste, starting with 1 tablespoon
Be sure all the ingredients are at room temperature. You may use a shallow dish and a fork; a bowl and an egg beater or wire whisk; or an electric beater. First beat the egg yolks, salt, mustard and pepper together. Then start adding the oil, a few drops at a time, beating it in after each addition thoroughly. If the mayonnaise starts to curdle, you are adding the oil too fast. Correct the curdling by starting over with another egg yolk and a little oil and then gradually beating the curdled mixture into this. Continue adding oil until the mixture is thick and stiff. Thin with vinegar or lemon juice.
Food processor method: Place 1 whole egg, 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice, 1 teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper in the processor. Blend for a couple of seconds. Continue blending while pouring—very slowly to begin with—1½ cups of olive oil into the spout.
VARIATIONS
Mustard Mayonnaise: To 1 cup of mayonnaise, add 1 tablespoon of French mustard, or more, if you like.
Green Mayonnaise: To 1 cup of mayonnaise add ½ cup of mixed chopped green herbs; parsley, chives, tarragon, watercress, and spinach will all add green color and good flavor.
Tartar Sauce: To 1 cup of mayonnaise add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped onion, 2 tablespoons of chopped dill pickle, 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley and lemon juice to taste.
Rémoulade Sauce: To 1 cup of mayonnaise add 1 minced clove of garlic, 1 teaspoon of dry or 1 tablespoon of fresh chopped tarragon, ½ teaspoon of dry mustard, 1 finely chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 tablespoon of capers, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley and anchovy paste to taste.
Thousand Island Dressing: To 1 cup of mayonnaise add 1 tablespoon of finely chopped onion, 3 tablespoons of chili sauce, 1 chopped hard-cooked egg, and a touch of dry mustard.
Curry Mayonnaise: To 1 cup of mayonnaise add 1½ teaspoons of curry powder (or more, to taste) that has been simmered in 1 tablespoon of butter for 2 or 3 minutes and cooled. Never add raw curry to dressings.
BOILED SALAD DRESSING
2 tablespoons of flour
1 teaspoon of dry mustard
3 tablespoons of sugar
2 egg yolks
1 cup of white wine
½ cup of wine vinegar or lemon juice
½ cup of olive oil
Salt and pepper
¼ cup of sour cream
Heat water in the lower part of a double boiler; in the upper section put the flour, mustard, sugar, wine and vinegar or lemon juice. Beat the egg yolks until light and add these to the mixture with the oil and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over the hot water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Do not let the water boil, and do not let the sauce boil, or it will curdle. When it is thick, beat in the sour cream until thoroughly blended.
SOUR CREAM DRESSING
Mix 1 cup of sour cream with 1 tablespoon of grated fresh horseradish, or bottled horseradish thoroughly drained, 1 teaspoon of dry mustard and ½ teaspoon each of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
VARIATION
Omit the horseradish and add 1 tablespoon of chopped chives or grated onion.