The Steamy Egg

Steamed Eggs-in-Pots with Ham and Spinach

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Dorie Greenspan is one of my polestars: I’ve followed her lead on everything from muffins to meringues. So when she tells me (in a Washington Post article) that everyone in Paris is mad for serving coddled eggs at dinner parties, well then, I fire up my steamer. Here’s the thing—they are both super elegant and kind of cozy and nostalgic all at once. And of course, steamed eggs are an excellent vehicle for small amounts of extra food.

Extra ingredients: cooked spinach, a bit of ham

Time: 15 minutes (5 minutes active)

Makes 2 hearty breakfast or 4 appetizer servings

Butter, to generously grease ramekins and to spread on toast

½ cup cooked spinach, drained, squeezed of excess juice, and chopped

Flaky sea salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Aleppo pepper to taste, optional

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons finely diced ham

A few gratings of nutmeg

4 eggs, at room temperature

¼ cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

4 slices bread, to serve

Chives, to garnish

1. You will need a stovetop steamer with a flat rack: a Chinese bamboo steamer will work well, as will a Japanese donabe, but you can also fit a rack (such as a small cooling or canning rack) into the bottom of a deep pot. Your pot will need a snug lid. Fill the bottom of the steamer with at least 3 inches of water, making sure the rack is sitting above the water level, and cover.

2. Meanwhile, liberally butter four small ramekins or four 4-ounce canning jars (baby food jars and imported yogurt jars are also about the right size).

3. Taste the spinach and add salt, black pepper, and Aleppo pepper, if desired. Arrange 2 tablespoons of spinach in the bottom of each ramekin, hollowing out the center a bit. Top each bed of spinach with 2 teaspoons of ham and a grating or two of nutmeg.

4. Crack each egg into a small cup, making sure the yolk stays intact. Carefully transfer one egg into each spinach nest. Top each egg with a tablespoon of cream and ½ teaspoon of Parmigiano. Season lightly with more Aleppo pepper, black pepper, and salt.

5. Bring the water in the steamer to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat so the water is at a lively simmer. Carefully place the ramekins in the steamer, using tongs if necessary to avoid getting burned by the steam (wrapping fat rubber bands around the tong paddles makes them grip the jars more securely). Cover and cook until the whites are set and the egg yolks are beginning to set but are still runny at their centers. Timing can be tricky, since the amount of steam and the thickness of the egg vessel affect the cooking speed: eggs in jars will cook faster than those in thick-walled ramekins. The best measure is a quick poke to the top of a yolk with a finger to check for a little springiness, or you can sacrifice one egg-pot’s beauty and check with a knife. In a 4-ounce canning jar, working with room-temperature eggs, 7 minutes works well.

6. Meanwhile, toast the bread, butter it, and cut each slice into 3 sticks.

7. Sprinkle the eggs with chives and serve with toast sticks to maximize dipping opportunities.

VARIATIONS

GETTING TO COOKED

SPINACH

In a large skillet (at least 10 inches across), heat 1 tablespoon of butter over medium heat. When fully melted, add 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot. Toss in 8 ounces of spinach and ¼ teaspoon of salt: if just washed, the moisture on the leaves should be enough to steam the spinach. If not, add 2 tablespoons of water. Cover the pan and cook for 1 minute, then uncover and toss the leaves until they are all wilted but still bright green, 1 or 2 minutes more.