Secrets of Great Second Meals

The Chunky Chile-Laced Soup

This is what the Thanksgiving turkey is all about for me. Sure, it’s nice to eat with cranberry sauce and mashed potatoes, the culmination of a day together with beloveds, cooking and sprawling in equal measure. But I feel another big wave of gratitude when I leave a big pot of stock brewing overnight (defying all fire safety regulations) with the bones and all the onion nubbins left from the day’s cooking, and then use that stock to make the smoky-spicy elixir that is tortilla soup (known also in Mexico as sopa Azteca).

Since I have Thanksgiving on my mind, I’ve included some roasted vegetables in the mix. You could skip them or swap them out for something more summerlike at other times of the year. You can make this soup with chicken when you don’t have leftover turkey.

Extra ingredients: shredded turkey or chicken, roasted vegetables

Time: 25 minutes (25 minutes active)

Makes 4 to 6 servings (3 quarts)

1 large dried chile negro, stemmed and seeded (or substitute 1 ancho chile, but it will be a little sweeter)

4 garlic cloves, unpeeled

One 15-ounce can whole tomatoes and juices (or half a standard 28-ounce can; you can freeze the second half)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Fine sea salt to taste

2 quarts turkey or chicken stock (homemade or low-sodium canned) or water

2 cups shredded cooked turkey or chicken

1 cup roasted poblano pepper, sliced into ¼-inch ribbons

1½ cups roasted delicata squash semicircles

1 cup roasted chanterelle or shiitake mushrooms

4 cups coarsely broken tortilla chips

1 large avocado, pitted, peeled, and diced

12 cilantro sprigs

1 lime, cut into 4 to 6 wedges

1. Turn on your vent fan and/or open the windows: it’s going to get aromatic in your kitchen! Toast the chile over an open flame or in a dry skillet over medium-high heat. When fragrant, after about 1 minute, flip and toast the other side for another minute. Let cool, and then crumble.

2. In the same pan, toast the garlic with its skin on until darkly browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel the garlic.

3. Place the chile, garlic, and the tomatoes and their juices in a blender and puree until smooth.

4. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium-high heat. Pour in the pureed tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens to a paste, about 6 minutes. Add the stock and whisk until well blended. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat to a mild simmer. Cook for about 12 minutes, until slightly thickened. Season with salt to taste.

5. Just before serving, add the turkey and vegetables to the soup and warm them through. Divide the tortilla chips among the bowls and ladle the soup over them, evenly distributing the turkey and vegetables. Garnish with the avocado, cilantro, and lime wedges.

VARIATIONS

Swap the meat. Try braised lamb or pork shoulder in the soup. You can also add chopped cooked pork tenderloin or pork chops or cooked shrimp or mild fish. In the case of these latter additions, heat gently to keep the meat from toughening.
Skip the meat. This soup is a delicious basis for vegetables of many kinds. In addition to the vegetables above, consider roasted carrots or cauliflower, grilled bell peppers, zucchini, onions, or corn. You can add additional heft to the soup by adding a poached egg or some drained cooked hominy or beans. Add brightness with greens, such as braised chard or fresh spinach.

GETTING TO COOKED

POBLANO PEPPERS

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Combine 2 poblano peppers with 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with fine sea salt. Lay on a baking sheet and roast, turning occasionally, until browned and blistered, about 25 minutes. Peel the peppers and remove core and seeds.