The French Toast
Red-Eye French Toast with Coffee and Candied Orange
What we call French toast is known as pain perdu in French, or “lost bread,” as a direct translation. There is much made of making French toast from challah or brioche, which both yield a very indulgent, creamy toast. But I like to take French toast back to its original calling: rescuing bread from the ignominy of staleness and dryness, and so I usually make mine with baguette, which is the quickest-staling bread I know. The only trick with a coarser bread is to extend the soak from a quick dip, which is sufficient for softer breads, to a good half-hour or more on each side for the baguette. If that statement made you groan because of the time involved, remember that this means you can soak your bread overnight and just brown it up in the morning.
Extra ingredients: baguette, coffee
Time: 1 hour 15 minutes (20 minutes active)
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1 cup whole milk
1 cup strongly brewed coffee, cooled to lukewarm or room temperature
⅔ cup heavy cream
2 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons bourbon or blended whiskey
½ cup sugar, plus about ¼ cup for sprinkling
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 day-or-two-old baguette, cut diagonally into 1-inch slices (about 12 ounces and 12 slices)
Ghee or neutral oil, for cooking
¼ cup Candied Orange Zest and its syrup
1. In a large bowl, lightly whisk the milk, coffee, cream, eggs, egg yolks, whiskey, the ½ cup of sugar, the vanilla, and the salt. Lay the bread slices in a single layer in a large baking dish or two. Pour in the custard and let the bread soak on one side for at least 30 minutes. Flip the bread and let soak for at least another 30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add in about 1 teaspoon ghee. Spread it around the pan and add 2 or 3 slices of the bread, leaving at least 1 inch between slices. Cook for 2 minutes, until the bread is browned on one side, and flip. While the bread is cooking on the second side, sprinkle each slice evenly with about 1 teaspoon of sugar. When each slice is toasted on the second side, flip once more and cook until the bread is lacquered and brown on the sugared side. Serve each piece shiny side up, and garnish with a few strands of orange zest and a drizzle of the syrup.
CANDIED ORANGE ZEST
¼ cup orange zest, julienned (from 2 large oranges)
¼ cup sugar
2 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring 4 cups water to a boil. Drop in the orange zest, cook for 30 seconds, and strain. Set the zest aside in a small bowl. In the same pan, combine the sugar, cloves, cinnamon stick, and ¾ cup water and bring to a boil, stirring frequently to make sure the sugar completely dissolves. Turn the heat to a low simmer, add the blanched orange zest, and cook for 4 minutes, then turn off the heat. Let the zest cool in the syrup. (Make-ahead note: The zest can be used right away or stored in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.)
VARIATIONS
- Change the flavoring. You can replace the coffee with milk and add ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or grated lemon zest to the soaking liquid.
- Change the bread. Of course you can use softer bread for the French toast, just dip it quickly. Brioche, white or wheat sandwich bread, or halved croissants would all work well.
- Change the topping. Berries, roasted fruit compotes (such as the pear compote opposite), whipped cream, and, of course, maple syrup would all taste nice on the French toast.
- Make it into bread pudding. You can layer sliced stale bread in a buttered baking dish and pour the cream mixture on top (make sure it’s enough to cover the bread). Let it sit in the fridge overnight, and then bake it in a water bath in a 350°F oven until set.
- Make it into dessert. Top it with a scoop of ice cream to make a homey treat.