Meritage
Downtown St. Paul and West Side
Summit-University and Mac-Groveland
The Twin Cities are a fantastic place for people who love food. Throw out your images of meat-and-potatoes farm food and underseasoned ghosts of Nordic fare. The Upper Midwest’s connection to farming serves eaters well. With young chefs—some of whom regularly show up on the list of James Beard Award nominees—leading the way, “local,” “seasonal,” and “sustainable” have become more than buzzwords. Knowing exactly where your vegetables, beef, chicken, and pork come from has become de rigueur for fine dining. The upshot of the focus on chef-driven short menus is that unless the chef is personally dedicated to a less-meat lifestyle, vegetarians often get shortchanged with an afterthought pasta or salad. (Of course, it will likely be a salad of local butter leaf lettuces.)
Meritage
Diners in the Twin Cities also benefit from the robust Laotian, Vietnamese, and East African communities here. Spring rolls and bánh mì (Vietnamese stuffed baguettes) show up on menus all over town. And the fragrant phô soup and noodle salads have become local staples.
Minnesotans eat early. Most restaurants open for dinner at 5pm, and the busiest seating is likely to be 6pm. That’s good news for people who would rather eat around 8pm but bad news for those who like to dine later—many kitchens close 9pm-10pm. It’s another vestige of the farming culture. Adapt by joining the crowds for breakfast and brunch, a Midwesterner’s favorite meal.
| Downtown Minneapolis |
1624 Harmon Pl., Minneapolis, 612/486-5500, www.cafelurcat.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-midnight, Sun. 5pm-9pm
This is where you will find Minneapolis’s beautiful people, arranged artfully on Lurcat’s exquisite collection of couches and chaise longues. The people-watching provides delightful entertainment while you eat. In the bar, that means small plates, like rave-worthy miniburgers and decadently golden fries. In the café, you’ll find creative contemporary American fare with a touch of French influence: buckwheat crepes, several cuts of steak, butter-poached prawns, and foie gras.
730 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/354-3135, www.boroughmpls.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sat. 5pm-11pm, Sun. 10am-2pm
High-flown, inventive cuisine is served in a high-ceilinged, classically beautiful room. Entrées with dabs and swoops of trendy flavors, from chimichurri to lavender, are big on technique and carefully composed, while the burger at the downstairs cocktail lounge, Parlour (same hours), is beloved.
1121 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis, 612/238-8888, www.butcherandtheboar.com; Sun.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm
Big, primal, meaty dishes make a meal at Butcher and the Boar feel like a feast. This is a great place to accommodate a big group, with plenty of six-tops and a menu ripe for sharing: The roasted long rib is a local classic, and the sausage and charcuterie plates include a fantastic variety of meats cured in-house, from head cheese to, yes, wild boar. If you can’t get a seat in the beer garden in back, the dark wood interior is still a beautiful and festive choice.
211 1st St. N., Minneapolis, 612/224-9850, www.spoonandstable.com; Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-1am, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-midnight
In casual, comfort-loving Minnesota, Spoon and Stable is one of just a couple of places offering an elegant, elevated, impress-at-all-costs experience. Nationally lauded young chef Gavin Kaysen creates precise, intricate plates like seared duck breast with burned honey jus, lamb with baby fennel, and bison with king oysters, served by some of the best-trained waitstaff in the cities. And, when you’re ready to go beyond Benedict for brunch, Spoon and Stable is where you come for grilled oysters, tartare, and handmade pasta.
Spoon and Stable
112 3rd St. N., Minneapolis, 612/343-7696, www.112eatery.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-1am, Sun. 5pm-10pm
What would hungry cooks or servers want to eat after a long shift? Probably a hearty egg sandwich with tangy harissa, meatballs made with foie gras, perfect steak tartare, or a plateful of light-as-air parmesan gnocchi. They’d want the best ingredients served up in comforting dishes. That’s what you get in this tiny Warehouse District space, a favorite among late-night diners.
50 2nd Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/206-3920, www.thebachelorfarmer.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5:30pm-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 5:30pm-10:30pm, Sun. 5pm-9:30pm
When the New Nordic trend swept into the United States, this is what it produced in Minneapolis. (The New York Times even featured its famous rooftop garden on the front page.) Brothers and heirs to the local department store fortune, Eric and Andrew Dayton opened The Bachelor Farmer (and the Marvel Bar downstairs) as an homage to their Minnesota home. The menu changes constantly, but expect plenty of cod, roe, rye, caraway seeds, sauerkraut, and pork in unexpected modern combinations. Next door, the Bachelor Farmer Café (Mon.-Fri. 6am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm) serves rigorously crafted coffee and pastries for breakfast, and Nordic-inspired open-faced sandwiches for lunch.
a Scandinavian-style, open-faced sandwich at the Bachelor Farmer Café
33 1st. Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/338-1515, www.kadonomise.com; Mon.-Wed. 4pm-10pm, Thurs.-Fri. 4pm-11pm, Sat. 5pm-11pm, Sun. 5pm-10pm
Everything at Kado no Mise, from the long, bright dining room to the brief menu to the flavors on your plate, is a study in understated sophistication. The sushi bar is open to walk-ins; order à la carte or omakase (chef’s choice, which can run well north of $100). For the traditional hours-long parade of tiny, intricate courses known as kaiseki, make a reservation upstairs at Kaiseki Furukawa ($125 per person, Thurs.-Sat. 6pm-11pm). Also upstairs, stop in for a sip of Japanese whisky at the semi-secret bar, Gori Gori Peku.
730 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/208-0706, www.junnorthloop.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
Who says authenticity always comes from a little hole in the wall? Sometimes you get it in a swanky, dark-wood dining room like Jun. Find a full range of Sichuan cuisine, from moo shu pork to smoked pig’s ears, at every spice level, as well as a brief dim sum menu available all day every day and hand-pulled noodles on the weekends.
602 Washington Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/332-3936, www.zenboxizakaya.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-midnight, Sat. 5pm-midnight
At a Japanese pub, or izakaya, tables of friends order rounds of beer and sake along with little plates of snacks. That’s the best way to enjoy Zen Box, too. From crispy little chicken karaage (the original popcorn chicken) to juicy braised short ribs to classic chilled tofu, most—but not all—of the menu is made to be shared. If you want a hearty meal all to yourself, you can’t go wrong with the deep, dark, rich ramen, especially the kimchi ramen.
800 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/333-3837, www.barlagrassa.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-1am, Sun. 5pm-10pm
You know those movie scenes with large, happy Italian families squeezed around tables overflowing with food and reaching across each other for one more bite of pasta, while all talking at once? That may be a stereotype, but that’s exactly what your table should look like at Bar La Grassa. Don’t expect red sauce Italian and don’t expect huge platters of pasta. Instead, the shareable dishes, like the must-order gnocchi with cauliflower and orange, are small, rich, and intensely flavored. Plan to order for the table so you can taste as many things as possible.
600 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/342-2625, www.blacksheeppizza.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
While Neapolitan devotees will tell you that wood-fired ovens are where it’s at, lovers of New York-style pizza will disagree: Coal is what makes a pizza crust great. Black Sheep Pizza brought the first coal-fired oven to the Twin Cities, along with a killer recipe for chewy, flavorful dough—a little thicker than a Neapolitan crust but still eminently foldable. Definitely get the house-made fennel sausage and whatever market salad is on the menu that day. You can now get your coal-fired pizza in St. Paul (512 Robert St. N., St. Paul, 651/227-4337, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm) and on Eat Street (2550 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/886-1233, daily 11am-2am).
1115 2nd Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/353-6207, www.monellompls.com; Mon.-Thurs. 6:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 6:30am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sat. 7am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sun. 7am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
Although it’s conveniently located in the Ivy Hotel, Monello is more than just a hotel restaurant. The menu focuses on the seafood-based cuisine of Italy’s Campania region, with a parade of crudos and small plates. Come on Sundays for Mama DeCampo’s Sunday Supper, featuring homey ziti, lasagna, and piccata. Start or end your meal at the basement cocktail bar, Constantine (Sun. 5pm-midnight, Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-1am, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-1:30am).
831 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, 612/333-7000, www.zelomn.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri. 11am-midnight, Sat. 11:30am-midnight, Sun. 4pm-10pm
Power lunchers and anniversary celebrators love the dark wood and rich ambience at Zelo. The menu is primarily Italian, with touches of Asian flare (calamari fritti with lemon aioli, for example, lives comfortably next to ahi spring rolls with wasabi and soy). While the steak and veal entrées are understandably pricey, Zelo’s tasty pastas and pizzas, as well as the lunch menu, are actually quite affordable, and you get the same great service. For Zelo taste on the go, head around the corner (same building, different entrance) to Zelino for takeout soups and sandwiches.
119 4th St. N., Minneapolis, 612/333-7359, www.pizzaluce.com; Sun. 10am-2:30am, Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2:30am, Fri. 11am-3:30am, Sat. 10am-3:30am
A little thicker, a little sweeter, a little breadier than your average pie, Pizza Lucé’s crust is in a category all its own. And the toppings blow attempts at categorization out of the water: Garlic mashed potatoes, black beans and pico de gallo, and mock duck and pineapple on barbecue sauce are just a few choices on the long menu. This is also a great place for hearty salads and pasta dishes. Vegans and vegetarians will love it here, as will any hungry soul wandering out after bars close at 2am. Lucé has six other locations in the Twin Cities and Duluth.
26 6th St. S., Minneapolis, 612/339-0909, www.murraysrestaurant.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-10:30pm, Sat. 5pm-10:30pm, Sun. 5pm-10pm
For more than 60 years, the Silver Butter Knife Steak at Murray’s has been one of the classiest ways to say “I love you” to your meat-eating Minneapolis sweetheart. The Silver Butter Knife—you’ll recognize it from the picture on the classic neon sign out front—is a 28-ounce cut of meat meant for two, so tender you barely need the titular carving implement. You can also choose among more than a dozen other cuts of meat and nearly as many luxurious seafood dishes. Vegetarians . . . well, the only things for vegetarians to enjoy at Murray’s are the suave service and timeless setting.
Murray’s
Guthrie Theater, 806 2nd St. S., Minneapolis, 612/225-6499, www.seachangempls.com; Tues.-Thurs. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-11pm, Sat. 11am-3pm and 5pm-11pm, Sun. 11am-3pm and 4:30pm-9pm
Whether you’re having dinner at the Guthrie or not, whether you care about sustainable fishing or not (they do)—as long as you love seafood, this is the place to go. The raw bar is known for having some of the freshest choices around (from oysters to Hawaiian poke), and the entrées include classic preparations of swordfish and scallops, always with a light touch. The nonseafood options are limited and not nearly as exciting. The large room can feel a little cold and impersonal (and, bafflingly, there are televisions always on at the bar), but the food will make up for that.
603 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis, 612/259-7288, www.smack-shack.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri. 11 am-1am, Sat. 10am-1am, Sun. 10am-midnight
You’re not supposed to find excellent lobster rolls this far from New England’s rocky shores, but here they are. Smack Shack’s signature dish is an extra-thick slice of brioche, split through the top, buttered and toasted, and stuffed to the gills with cool lobster salad. In the butter-vs.-mayo debate, Smack Shack lets the diner choose, but either way the sweet claw meat shines through. The rest of the miles-long menu is New Orleans-inspired and very heavy on the seafood, from crab po’boys to a French Quarter-inspired brunch on weekends. This is one of the few places to get truly late-night eats, with a special menu starting at 10pm Sunday-Thursday and 11pm Friday-Saturday.
Weekend brunch—best enjoyed at an hour that in many cities would be considered “breakfast”—is a beloved ritual in the Twin Cities. This is an early-rising town, even on the weekends. Great bets for hearty breakfasts built on local ingredients include downtown Minneapolis’s Hell’s Kitchen and South Minneapolis’s The Zumbro and French Meadow Bakery and Café. For a morning repast focused more on pastries than on eggs and bacon, head for the French-inspired Rustica or to one of Turtle Bread’s (www.turtlebread.com) three tasty locations (3421 44th St. W., Minneapolis, 612/924-6013, daily 6:30am-8pm; 4762 Chicago Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/823-7333, daily 6am-9pm; and 4205 34th St. E., Minneapolis, 612/545-5757, daily 6am-6pm).
brunch sandwich
750 2nd St. S., Minneapolis, 612/436-2236, www.spoonriver.com; Tues.-Fri. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat. 10am-2pm (8:30am-2pm in summer) and 5pm-9pm, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-9pm
Spoonriver is elegant, urbane, mostly vegetarian, and a popular choice for pre- or post-theater dining—something you should keep in mind if you’re hoping to get a table. The menu changes with the season and the trends, always focused on the fresh and flavorful rather than the filling. Weekend brunches are just a tiny bit more decadent, with omelets, French toast, and buckwheat crepes.
80 9th St. S., Minneapolis, 612/332-4700, www.hellskitcheninc.com; Mon.-Fri. 7am-10pm, Sat. 7:30am-11pm, Sun. 7:30am-10pm; Thurs.-Sat. includes music until 2am
Hell’s Kitchen is open late into the evening, but it built its reputation and fan base on breakfast: ethereal lemon-ricotta pancakes, a plate of huevos rancheros as big as your head, local bacon cut seemingly a quarter-inch thick, and a popular wild rice porridge you won’t find anywhere else. At 11am the menu switches to lunch—hearty sandwiches and burgers, including bison—with a few hours of amnesty for the best breakfast items. Be sure to pick up a jar of homemade peanut butter on the way out. Renowned road foodies Jane and Michael Stern can’t get enough of it. Next door, the eatery’s Angel Food Bakery (Mon.-Fri. 7am-6pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm or until sold out) serves up croissants and other treats.
| South Minneapolis |
3804 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/822-8260, www.grandcafemn.com; Mon.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, Sun. 10am-1pm and 5pm-9pm
Settle in for an exquisite experience, down to the last detail, from the armory of very specific vintage tableware (there’s a mismatched tiny fork for everything) to the warm and attentive service. Chef and owner Jamie Malone is recognized locally and nationally for her French techniques and a seafood focus.
4300 Bryant Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/827-8111, www.tenantmpls.com; Tues.-Sat. 6pm-10pm
Put yourself in the inventive and exacting hands of this team of up-and-coming chefs (who double as your servers). Tiny Tenant hosts about a dozen people at three seatings a night for six-course tasting menus ($50, reservations only). The room is as spare as the menu.
3800 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, 612/823-4790, www.blackbirdmpls.com; Mon.-Thurs. 8am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 8am-10pm, Sun. 8am-2pm
Blackbird pulls influences from all over the map and all over the culinary spectrum: rabbit empanadas, locally inspired bánh mì, and locally beloved fries with rosemary aioli. Casual and friendly, Blackbird is the ultimate neighborhood place, where everyone can feel like a regular, whether for brunch, lunch, or dinner.
2916 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/824-7878, www.chinolatino.com; Sun.-Thurs. 4:30pm-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 4:30pm-1am
Big, bold, beautiful, and brassy: That’s Chino Latino and most of its clientele. Once you get a table (reservations are recommended, but waiting to be seated is one of the most popular ways to see and be seen in Uptown), choose “little plates to share” (appetizers) or “big plates to share” (mains that serve three-five). The flavors may look like a multiculti mishmash on the menu, but they make sense once they hit your table: hot tastes from the hot parts of the world, like the calamari with jalapeños. Wash them down with selections from one of the longest and craziest cocktail menus in town.
Minnesotans love three things: lakes, summer, and eating by lakes in the summer. And there is excellent and varied dining to be found on all of the Twin Cities’ favorite lakes. The opening of these seasonal restaurants, all of which replaced outdated concessions in Minneapolis and St. Paul parks, is an eagerly awaited sign of spring each year, and their closing each fall is a sad rite of passage into the colder, darker days.
lakeside meal by Bde Maka Ska
For casual, picnic-type fare, including a grass-fed burger and sweet-savory truffle popcorn, head to Lake Harriet’s Bread and Pickle (4135 Lake Harriet Pkwy. W., Minneapolis, 612/767-9009, www.breadandpickle.com, late Apr.-Oct. daily 7am-9pm). For summer food with a sense of fun—fried cheese curds and a hot dog topped with a fried egg and kimchi—sit down by Lake Nokomis, about five miles east of the Chain of Lakes, at Sandcastle (4955 Nokomis Pkwy. W., Minneapolis, 612/722-5550, www.sandcastlempls.com, late Apr.-Oct. daily 11am-8pm). At St. Paul’s Lake Como, Spring Café at Como Lakeside Pavilion (1360 Lexington Pkwy. N., St. Paul, www.springcafestp.com, Memorial Day-Labor Day Mon.-Fri. 11am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-9pm) serves brisket sandwiches and wild rice brats.
On Bde Maka Ska (Lake Calhoun), Lola’s on the Lake (3000 Calhoun Pkwy. E., Minneapolis, 612/824-0516, www.lolascafmn.com, late Apr.-Memorial Day daily noon-8pm, Memorial Day-Labor Day daily 11am-9pm, Labor Day-Oct. daily noon-7:30pm) serves up signature smoked wings and pulled pork sandwiches. And, yes, despite the distance from the ocean, people here enjoy the time-honored simple pleasure of sitting by a body of water and eating a fine piece of fish. Sea Salt (4801 Minnehaha Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/721-8990, www.seasalteatery.com, Apr.-Oct. daily 11am-9pm) fills the pavilion at Minnehaha Falls with the scent of fish tacos and lines of eager eaters.
4537 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, 612/823-0011, www.cornertablerestaurant.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm
Corner Table is where neighbors in the know come for fine dining with a little swagger: French techniques, local ingredients, a Minneapolis casual vibe, an ever-changing menu (always prix fixe, 3 courses for $45 or 10 for $145). Chef Thomas Boemer is a near-constant and welcoming presence in the dining room, where it always feels like a cozy dinner party.
2724 43rd St. W., Minneapolis, 612/354-2197, www.lakeharrietbrasserie.com; Mon.-Thurs. 10am-9pm, Fri. 10am-11pm, Sat. 8am-11pm, Sun. 8am-3pm
It’s pretty clear the chef has some Latin roots when you see the beloved Brazilian steak sandwich, the bauru, on the dinner menu and a tres leches cake on the dessert list, but Harriet draws inspiration from all over the world, from steak au poivre to risotto. The cozy interior and the leafy deck are both excellent places to linger over crab Benedict and a bloody sake for brunch.
2115 21st St. W., Minneapolis, 612/377-3695, www.thekenwoodrestaurant.com; Tues.-Thurs. 8am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 8am-10pm, Sun. 8am-9pm
What a lucky neighborhood, to have a neighborhood haunt like this. On a surprising little commercial block in shady, solid, upscale Kenwood, chef and owner Don Saunders makes beet carpaccio, veal sweetbreads, and mussels in pistou that feel like just the homey Tuesday supper you were looking for. Not feeling particularly upper-crust? Order the Kenwood burger, a delightfully sloppy concoction with pork belly and a fried egg, made on one of the best burger buns in the city. And bring the kids, because not only are they welcome, they will also find a kids’ menu that takes their tastes seriously.
2726 43rd St. W., Minneapolis, 612/354-2806, www.tiliampls.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-1am, Sat.-Sun. 9am-1am
Tilia doesn’t take reservations and you probably will have to wait for one of the 40 seats, but take heart: It will be worth it. Chef Steven Brown kicked around just about every decent restaurant in the Twin Cities before pouring his heart and soul into his own place. The menu is a mix of high and low, from the fish taco torta to the halibut in shiitake broth. Parents: Tilia has a terrific children’s menu, well beyond the usual mac and cheese. And for weekend brunch, the lobster eggs Benedict on cornmeal waffles cannot be beat.
5401 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/354-2577, www.wiseacreeatery.com; Sun. 9am-8pm, Mon.-Sat. 9am-9pm
You’ve heard of farm to table? This is one farm (mostly) to one table—well, a restaurant full of tables. At Wise Acre, about 90 percent of the beef, pork, chicken, eggs, vegetables, and berries comes from Tangletown Farm in Plano, Minnesota, owned and operated by the folks behind the restaurant and the garden shop across the street. Smart summer preserving and greenhouses keep the food flowing throughout the Minnesota winter. The menu is elevated stick-to-your-ribs stuff, drawing on influences well beyond Minneapolis, with curry and phô (Vietnamese soup) and pasties. The room is small and energetic, and waits for a table can be long.
600 Lake St. W., Minneapolis, 612/871-4055, www.fujiyasushi.com; Tues.-Thurs. 5pm-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-10:30pm
Before you could get sushi in every grocery store, you could get it right here, at Fuji Ya. Well, not here exactly—the restaurant has moved a couple of times since it first shocked Minnesotans with raw fish—but from the same family. You’d never know Fuji Ya has five decades under its belt: It’s still fresh and young and pulling in a hip crowd. On summer evenings, the secluded patio is a great place to score a seat, but your party may also request a tatami room for the most authentic experience.
3758 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, 612/236-4429, www.kyatchi.com; Mon.-Fri. 4pm-midnight, Sat.-Sun. noon-midnight
Kyatchi is totally unique on the Twin Cities food scene for the way it pushes modern Japanese cuisine not in an American or fusion-y direction but toward more daring Japanese flavors and textures. In the nigiri, sashimi, and oshizuki (pressed sushi) expect fish and flavors that play toward an Asian palate. Even the hot dogs—a nod, perhaps, toward the chef’s previous life as a private chef for a Japanese baseball player—are more Japanese than American.
TOP EXPERIENCE
If you can’t decide exactly what you want for dinner and you’re up for a bit of a culinary adventure, point your feet south from downtown Minneapolis, along Nicollet Avenue. The stretch from around 13th Street to around 28th Street is known as Eat Street. That mile-or-so walk will take you past Indian, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Mexican restaurants—from holes-in-the-wall to large and well-established places like Vietnamese eatery Quang. Almost universally speaking, what you find will be inexpensive, authentic, and tasty.
If your itinerary keeps you on the St. Paul side of things, head west on University Avenue and keep your eye out for Vietnamese restaurants; Ngon Bistro offers a contemporary take. Or check out Cheng Heng, which serves Cambodian soul food.
classic Vietnamese pho
2812 43rd St. W., Minneapolis, 612/276-5061, www.naviyas.com; Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. noon-9pm
You’ve never had Thai food like this before. Every dish is heavy on the vegetables and extraordinarily light on the sauces and grease. An extra-hot grill adds extra flavor to everything from the vegetables to the fried rice (nongreasy fried rice—it’s a revelation!). The hot plates and massaman curry are great favorites here. While the atmosphere isn’t very child-friendly (there are a lot of seats packed into a relatively small space), the kids’ menu is one that both parents and children will love, with plenty of healthy, tasty choices.
2719 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/870-4739, www.quang-restaurant.com; Mon. and Wed.-Fri. 11am-9pm, Sat. 10:30am-9pm, Sun. 10:30am-8:30pm
This is where big Southeast Asian families gather to celebrate and dine together. It’s also popular with office workers looking for an inexpensive, healthy lunch, and with young Vietnamese couples on a date. Heck, just about everybody eventually comes to bright and friendly Quang for their first or their 4,000th bowl of phô (Vietnamese noodle soup with a deep, rich broth). (If you’ve had enough phô, try the barbecue pork salad.) The line may stretch out the door, but you probably won’t have to wait long. Service is unbelievably fast.
2910 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/332-0880, www.himalayanmomo.com; Tues.-Sun. 11am-9:30pm
The nourishing cuisines of Nepal, Tibet, and India have a lot in common. They all use complex spiced sauces, and all are pretty vegetarian friendly. The samosas and lentil pancakes are delicious, as are the curries. And, of course, you have the famous Tibetan/Nepali dumplings, momos, even with traditional yak. Himalayan Restaurant’s lunch buffet is a nice change from the typical Indian buffet.
2532 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/870-4700, www.jasminedelimpls.com; Tues.-Sat. 10am-8pm, Sun. 10am-6pm
With just a half dozen tables and a spare, no-nonsense aesthetic, Jasmine Deli won’t wow you until the food arrives: fragrant phô soup, bright noodle salads, and perfectly sized bánh mì (stuffed baguette sandwiches) are the things to order. Linger a little longer over a Vietnamese coffee-drip—brewed right at your table over sweetened condensed milk (iced in the summer).
2600 Park Ave., Minneapolis, 612/871-4907, www.asimn.org; Sun. 11am-5pm, Tues. and Thurs.-Sat. 8:30am-5pm, Wed. 8:30am-8pm
In Sweden, fika is the beloved art of the afternoon coffee break, a time and a place for a hot drink and a little something sweet. In the American Swedish Institute, Fika is a destination in its own right, a place to sit down for an elegant midday meal. The salads, small plates, and open-faced sandwiches are artfully composed, showing off the flavors Sweden is known for: meatballs, lingonberries, gravlax, and more. The café’s few tables are right in the museum’s lobby. If the weather is nice, take a seat in the serene, green courtyard instead.
4312 S. Upton Ave., Minneapolis, 612/922-9913, www.martinarestaurant.com; Mon. 5pm-10pm, Tues.-Thurs. 5pm-11pm, Fri. 5pm-midnight, Sat. 10am-2pm and 5pm-midnight, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
A big, joyous room with a view of a wood fire, where octopus, swordfish, steaks, and scallops crackle on the grill—that’s Martina, a little piece of Argentina (with a splash of southern Italy) in southwest Minneapolis. Plates of pastas in pungent sauces follow funky appetizers (tongue bruschetta, leek and onion empanadas). The cocktails are both remarkably well priced and well composed.
3501 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/345-5583, www.holaarepa.com; Tues.-Fri. 3pm-midnight, Sat. 10am-midnight, Sun. 10am-midnight
The only entrée on the menu at Hola Arepa is the namesake Venezuelan corn cake—the size of a saucer, soft on the inside, crunchy on the outside, and split to make room for oodles of filling. Get your arepa stuffed with chicken in adobo or chimichurri sauce, slow-roasted pork, chorizo, or black beans, along with pickled vegetables and house-made fresh cheese. Absolutely do not say no to the yucca fries or a cocktail.
Mercado Central, 1515 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/728-5408, www.mannystortas.com; daily 8am-8pm
A torta is a complex thing. Layers of flavor pile up on a wide, thick baguette that barely seems to be able to contain it all. No matter what you order, there will be lettuce, tomato, avocado, peppers, mayo, and cheese. There may be beans and roasted vegetables. There may be several kinds of meat. You may think it will never come together into a single tasty whole, until it goes into the sandwich press and comes out born anew. The chorizo and egg sandwich will cure whatever ails you. Another branch is in the Midtown Global Market (920 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/870-3930, daily 10am-8pm).
1113 Franklin Ave. E., Minneapolis, 612/870-9842, www.mariascafe.com; Mon.-Fri. 7am-3pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-3pm
Norteamericanos have no monopoly on the best breakfasts. Maria Hoyos, a native of Colombia, serves up a mix of morning classics from North and South America. You’ve got your basic two eggs, toast, and bacon. But then there’s cachapas venezolanas (Venezuelan corn pancakes), so tender they fall apart at the sight of a fork (sprinkled with Cotija cheese, they’re the perfect combination of salty and sweet), and sautéed plantains and yucca (available on weekends). Breakfast is served all day, and the lunch menu includes sandwiches and burgers.
3300 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/722-2500; Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri. 10am-midnight, Sat. 9am-midnight, Sun. 9am-10pm
Three friends from the Mexican state of Sonora take their inspiration from all over Latin America and make everything from scratch, from the skewers of meat known as pinchos to the breaded eggplant fries to the aioli dipping sauce. The eggplant bocadillo, a good-size sandwich, is a favorite, as is everything that comes with the delicious beans cooked with guajillo peppers.
809 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/825-4978, www.taquerialosocampo.com; Sun.-Thurs. 9am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 9am-3am
Spanish-language talk shows and telenovelas blare from two television sets, and the happy crowds move noisily in and out. Tortillas, gorditas, arepas, and more are made on-site; you’ll notice the woman behind the counter slapping disks of masa into shape. Another branch is just across Lake Street in the Midtown Global Market (920 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/872-8562, Mon.-Sat. 9am-8pm, Sun. 9am-6pm).
3756 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/827-8948, www.victors1959cafe.com; Sun.-Mon. 8am-2:30pm, Tues.-Sat. 8am-2:30pm and 4:30pm-9pm
A tiny shack painted very un-Minnesotan colors, Victor’s has a subversive, makeshift feel to it. But it’s actually a long-standing favorite, attracting people willing to wait in lines out the door for the corn pancakes and yucca and eggs in the morning, the authentic Cuban sandwich (ham, pork loin, pickles, and condiments pressed together in a soft, slightly sweet bun) at lunch, and the homey ropa vieja (shredded flank steak tossed with vegetables) at dinner.
Like any American city with a population greater than 72, Minneapolis and St. Paul have been bitten by the food truck bug. Office workers line up at trucks parked the length of Marquette Avenue in downtown Minneapolis and along the edges of Rice Park in St. Paul. Breweries and tap rooms invite trucks to park outside on summer evenings, and every farmers market has at least one or two on weekend mornings.
Food trucks have taken the Twin Cities by storm.
Several trucks that still prowl the streets have led to bricks-and-mortar restaurants, including World Street Kitchen (www.eatwsk.com).
2743 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/424-8855, www.eatwsk.com; daily 11am-11pm
To understand World Street Kitchen, you have to understand its pedigree: Chef Sameh Wadi pioneered high-end, date night-worthy Middle Eastern before he brought the wildly popular World Street Kitchen food truck to the streets to show he could also do fun and funky. From that the truck’s brick-and-mortar doppelganger was born. The menu capitalizes on the big, bold flavors that Korean, Thai, and Middle Eastern food share, served up in bowls, burritos, tacos, and wraps.
Finish a meal with one of the dozen flavors of ice cream (Thai tea, chanterelle and caramel, fruity cereal) at World Street Kitchen’s Milkjam Creamery (612/424-4668, www.milkjamcreamery.com, Sun.-Thurs. noon-10pm, Fri.-Sat. noon-11pm), next door
1600 Lake St. W., Minneapolis, 612/827-5710, www.barbette.com; Sun.-Thurs. 8am-midnight, Fri.-Sat. 8am-1am
The sign over the back door beckons: “French Fries Here.” And many a wanderer has been lured into the rich, warm, lounge-like room for a big plate of pommes frites with béarnaise sauce or a frisée salad with poached egg and lardoons or a plate of mussels. Everything at Barbette is comforting, classically French, and frankly perfect, from breakfast right on through to late-night snacks. Save room for carrot cake.
5003 Bryant Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/353-4843, www.stgmpls.com; Sun. 9:30am-9:30pm, Mon.-Fri. 11am-11pm, Sat. 9:30am-midnight
St. Genevieve is a bubbly little place with a lot of verve and a lot of fine bubbly on the menu. Sit down here and your “just a drink and a bite” might just turn into a meal, as your oysters on the half shell lead to plate of mussels then to a crepe or a tartine. And then another round of bubbly. Linger at the friendly bar or in the romantic corner in the back.
5000 Penn Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/925-9202, www.broders.com; Mon.-Thurs. 4:30pm-9:30pm, Sat. 4pm-10pm, Sun. 4pm-9:30pm
House-made pasta cooked to order and tossed to order with individually composed sauces—that’s why South Minneapolis diners line up and cheerfully accept the no-reservations policy. Look for terrific dinner-for-two deals after 8pm on Sunday and before 6pm on weekdays, available seasonally. Across the street, at Broder’s Cucina Italiana (612/925-3113, daily 11am-9pm), you can pick up pizza by the slice or the pie, Broder’s famous (in these parts) lasagna and Bolognese, as well as dried pasta and other imported goodies.
5557 Xerxes Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/424-8338, www.pizzerialola.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
The giant copper pizza oven at the center of this beloved southwest Minneapolis spot is always busy. Diners line up (or take one of the limited reservations) for daring pizza (kimchi, Korean short ribs, olives and almonds) on delightfully chewy crust. Be sure to end the meal with house-made soft-serve and a trip to the photo booth.
4257 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/345-4516, http://revivalmpls.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 4pm-10pm, Sat. 11am-10pm
Sometimes what you really need is two pieces of fried chicken with a thick, crunchy crust (order them Tennessee hot if you want) with collard greens and golden rice on the side. That is what Revival does best—so well, in fact, that there are lines out the door and occasional backups in the kitchen. There are other entrées on Revival’s menu with an unmistakable Southern twang—catfish, shrimp and grits—but nearly everyone comes here for the fried chicken. There’s also a location in St. Paul (525 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651/340-2355, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm).
1933 Colfax Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/843-1515, www.burchrestaurant.com; Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-midnight, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
Before you order a steak at Burch, you need to ask yourself a handful of questions, beyond what cut you like—grass-fed or grain? Prime or Wagyu? Domestic or imported? All told, you have nearly three dozen options, including some appealing six- and eight-ounce options. The really interesting stuff, however, is happening on the other side of the menu, where famed Minneapolis restaurateur Isaac Becker throws out the usual steak house creamed spinach and green beans amandine in favor of a selection of complex dumplings and chef-ed up vegetables. Downstairs, Burch becomes an entirely different restaurant altogether, a dim, cozy hangout with a menu of thin-crust pizzas.
3311 25th St. E., Minneapolis, 612/722-4474, www.birchwoodcafe.com; Mon.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-9pm
The Birchwood isn’t strictly vegetarian, but vegetarians, vegans, and their fish- and poultry-eating friends will all find common ground in this cheery neighborhood gem. The atmosphere is casual—you order at the counter and the place is teeming with kids—but pizzas, burgers, and light entrées are all a step above what you’d expect at a casual joint. Make it a pizza party on Saturday night, when two individual pizzas and two glasses of wine are $30. There’s live music on Monday nights.
2610 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/870-7855, www.frenchmeadowcafe.com; Sun.-Thurs. 7am-10pm; Fri.-Sat. 7am-11pm
For breakfast, French Meadow’s plate-sized whole-grain pancakes are legendary. For lunch they’re known for tempeh Reubens on sprouted-grain bread, and for dinner line-caught salmon and local chicken. For a more chic, sit-down experience, head around back to French Meadow’s sister restaurant Bluestem Bar (www.bluestembarminneapolis.com, Sun.-Thurs. 8am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 8am-11pm). Or check them out in St. Paul (1662 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/789-8870, Sun.-Thurs. 7am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 7am-10pm). The main themes remain the same: virtuous, locally sourced, vegan-friendly, globally inspired.
French Meadow Bakery and Café
2558 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/871-2360, www.commonrootscafe.com; Mon.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 8am-9pm
When you move to a new town and can’t find a decent bagel, what do you do? You make your own, or at least that’s what Danny Schwartzman did. And, along the way, he challenged himself to make and sell them in the most sustainable way possible: At last count, 90 percent of his ingredients are local, fair trade, or organic. Get a bagel or shakshuka (eggs with a tomato and red pepper sauce) in the morning and a burger or sandwich in the afternoon, washed down with a Surly brew.
2640 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/870-2640, www.thelynnhall.com; daily 7:30am-9pm
You’ve just found your new happy place in Minneapolis: long reclaimed-wood tables for sharing, cozy corners for conversation, plenty of space to plug in your laptop, and a menu that goes from soft-scrambled eggs in the morning to short ribs in the evening. Come grab a pastry as big as your head (sweet or savory) and stay all day.
The Lynhall
4600 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, 612/354-3414, www.sunstreetbreads.com; Tues.-Sun. 6:30am-2pm, pizza night Thurs. 5pm-8pm
At breakfast, Sun Street can’t be beat: big, flaky biscuits topped with eggs, gravy, or roasted veggies, or maybe a fresh pastry (don’t miss the laugencroissants, a cross between a pretzel and a croissant). At lunch there’s a small roster of excellent sandwiches (the Susan is a meatloaf sandwich with all the fixings) made with Sun Street’s own bread. Pick up a loaf or two to take with you.
2803 43rd St. W., Minneapolis, 612/920-3606, www.thezumbro.com; Tues.-Fri. 7am-2:30pm, Sat.-Sun. 7:30am-2:30pm
Somehow this small breakfast-and-lunch place feels sunny even in the winter. It may be all the blond wood, or it may be the happy diners and the always-cheery clatter of latte cups. The Zumbro has mastered the fine art of the frittata and serves a variety alongside tender potatoes and, if you choose, fantastic slices of thick-cut bacon. Keep in mind: It’s small and popular, meaning this may not be the best choice for larger groups, active kids, or people in a hurry.
2811 43rd St. W., Minneapolis, 612/259-7921, www.rosestreet.co, Sun. and Tues. 7am-2pm, Wed.-Sat. 7am-5pm
The very first American chef to join the society known as the Relais Desserts is right here, baking in this kitchen, turning out award-winning patisserie, perfect Parisian baguettes, and flaky croissants that attract aspiring bakers all the way from Paris. The two-story windows and long tables make this an ideal meeting spot. Rose Street also has a location in St. Paul (171 Snelling Ave. N., St. Paul, 651/556-4488; Tues.-Sat. 7am-6pm, Sun. 7am-3pm).
croissant from Rose Street Patisserie
4552 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/354-3257, www.patisserie46.com; Tues.-Sat. 7am-6pm, Sun. 7am-2pm
It doesn’t get any better than this: croissants with a crackling buttery crust, crisp baguettes with a cloud-like interior, French macarons that would sell out in any Parisian patisserie, and breads you can’t wait to take home and slice into—including a six-pound rustic sourdough miche. While most people come for cappuccinos and treats, you can also get a French-style salad, tartine (open-faced sandwich), panini, or pizza for lunch.
3220 Lake St. W., Minneapolis, 612/822-1119, www.rusticabakery.com; Mon.-Fri. 6:30am-8pm, Sat.-Sun. 7am-8am
Serious coffee drinkers and serious pastry lovers feel right at home at Rustica. You’ll find kouign-amann, a buttery, flaky specialty from Breton, cherry clafouti, baguettes, and a handful of lunch sandwiches. This is the sort of place where laptops abound, and it can be hard to find a seat on the worn wood benches.
1007 Franklin Ave. W., Minneapolis, 612/870-0065, www.sebastianjoesicecream.com; Sun.-Thurs. 7am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 7am-midnight
The signature flavor at Sebastian Joe’s is Pavarotti, an addictive blend of caramel, banana, and chocolate. But the raspberry chocolate chip has partisans, as well. Other than that, you never know what you’ll find in the ice cream case—cinnamon? green tea? malted vanilla? mango? Sebastian Joe’s is a neighborhood family fixture and a favorite stop after soccer and T-ball games. But don’t rule it out in the winter: In fact, as the temperature dips below freezing, the prices drop as well! There’s another branch in the neighborhood of Linden Hills (4321 Upton Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/926-7916, Mon.-Thurs. 6:30am-9pm, Fri. 6:30am-10pm, Sat. 7am-10pm, Sun. 7am-9pm).
The national doughnut frenzy hit the Twin Cities—and hit it hard. Sure, trends come and go, but the truly good doughnut shops—the ones that brought something special to the doughnut table—those are the ones that stuck around.
treats from Bogart’s Doughnuts
Local favorite Baker’s Wife (4200 28th Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/729-6898, Tues.-Sat. 6:30am-6pm, Sun. 6:30am-3pm) has been making a classic old-fashioned for years, along with a whole pastry case of turnovers, muffins, and scones.
Bogart’s Doughnuts (904 36th St. W., Minneapolis, 612/886-1670, www.bogartsdoughnutco.com, Tues.-Fri. 6:30am-noon, Sat.-Sun. 7:30am-noon, or until sold out) bet on its batter, making just a handful of deceptively simple doughnuts with a rich brioche dough. Bogart’s also has a cart in the IDS building in downtown Minneapolis.
But if you want all that crazy stuff—maple bacon and Trix toppings and the like—head to Angel Food Bakery (86 9th St. S., Minneapolis, 612/238-1435, www.angelfoodmn.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-6pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm, or until sold out). And if you want your crazy doughnut for dessert instead of breakfast, Glam Doll Donuts (2605 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis, 612/345-7064, www.glamdolldonuts.com, Mon.-Thurs. 7am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 7am-1am, Sun. 7am-3pm) is the place for you.
And for a classic doughnut shop in the burbs, where you can not only pick up a box but also hang out to eat and chat, there’s YoYo Donuts (5757 Sanibel Dr., Minnetonka, 952/960-1800, http://yoyodonuts.com, Mon.-Sat. 6am-9pm, Sun. 7am-9pm).
3403 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/824-3868, www.sonnysicecream.com; Sun. noon-11pm, Mon.-Thurs. 5pm-11pm, Fri. 5pm-11:30pm, Sat. noon-11:30pm
For years Sonny Siron himself made Italian-style ice cream for fancy restaurants in the Twin Cities and as far afield as Chicago. Then, by popular demand, he opened this Tuscan-style jewel box with a hidden garden patio, where neighbors could enjoy his tiny, intensely flavored scoops of cabernet chocolate chip, basil balsamic vinegar, green tea, cardamom black pepper, blackberry cassis, and an ever-changing list of other imaginative flavors.
| Nordeast and Dinkytown |
528 University Ave. SE, Minneapolis, 612/379-4909, www.restaurantalma.com; Sun.-Thurs. 5pm-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-10pm
While chef and owner Alex Roberts has twice been nominated for a James Beard Award and the Washington Post, Gourmet, and Bon Appetit have all taken note of Alma’s strengths, this restaurant still has the feel of a cozy neighborhood bistro. It serves an ever-changing three-course prix-fixe menu with carnivore and vegetarian-friendly options. The café next door (Sun.-Thurs. 7am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 7am-10pm) is open all day for everything from a cup of coffee and a pastry to a cocktail to a jaw-dropping burger.
Alma
2501 Marshall St. NE, Minneapolis, 612/315-4997, http://bettydangers.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-close, Fri. 11am-1am, Sat. 10am-1am, Sun. 10am-close
Meet Betty, sister of Suzi (of Psycho Suzi’s Motor Lounge) and Donny (of Donny Dirk’s Zombie Den). The fictional family keeps Minneapolis—or, at least, artier, hipper Nordeast—entertained and well-fed. Betty’s imagined home is Mexampton: Mexico plus the Hamptons, all wrapped up in Minnesota nice and plenty of hot dish. Your ride on the Ferris wheel—the “vertically rotating patio” for zoning purposes—comes with a drink, as does your round of golf. Add snacks for the full experience, or sit down at a stationary table for indulgent enchiladas or overstuffed sandwiches—mildly spicy and covered in cheese, as befits Mexampton. To make a night of it, ride the Tiki Tram shuttle among all three siblings’ establishments.
509 1st Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/767-7766, www.redstagsupperclub.com; Mon.-Wed. 11am-1am, Thurs.-Fri. 11am-2am, Sat. 9am-2am, Sun. 9am-1am
(If you’re tired of hearing about green this and local that, avert your attention for a moment.) Red Stag is the first LEED-certified restaurant in Minnesota—which means it was built using environmentally friendly building techniques—and buys as much of its meat and produce as possible from local farmers. But even if that does not interest you, you’ll enjoy the food: updated renditions of supper club classics, from mac and cheese with truffle oil to liver and onions with green garlic gravy. Locals love the smelt fries, and this may be the only place this far from the North Shore to find them. Friday is fish fry day, with an extensive menu of battered and fried in-season seafood, including tiny crispy smelt and whole trout.
165 13th Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/345-5719, www.youngjoni.com; Sun. noon-10pm, Mon. 4pm-10pm, Tues.-Thurs. 4pm-10pm, Fri. 4pm-midnight, Sat. noon-midnight
Young Joni, which topped many national best new restaurant lists when it opened in 2017, serves a long list of classic and innovative pizzas, but it’s about so much more than just the pies. Think of what else a wood-fired oven and grill can do: add a smoky, rustic touch to cauliflower, eggplant, shrimp, and wings. If the red neon light in the alley is lit, that means that Young Joni’s Back Bar is open. Array yourself on vintage divans and order artsy cocktails (along with a handful of pizzas).
1928 University Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/789-7297, www.jaxcafe.com; Tues.-Thurs. 11am-9:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 10am-1:30pm and 3:30pm-9pm
When Jax first opened in this largely Eastern European neighborhood in 1933, “What dining out was meant to be” was a formal occasion, one you couldn’t possibly replicate at home. And that’s what you still get at Jax: dark wood, rich food (lots of steak and lobster), and bygone pomp. But even the most formal of dining institutions occasionally lets down its hair: At Jax, you can net your own trout, while they’re in season, from a built-in brook in the restaurant’s charming back garden.
323 13th Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/623-4211, www.ertedining.com; Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-10pm
A supper club doesn’t have to be stuffy. Erté takes luxurious, filling classics like filet mignon, shrimp cocktail, and Cobb salad and serves them with a touch of humor on the side. You’ll find northeast Minneapolis’s more fortunate young professionals here enjoying the juxtaposition of the dark wood, white tablecloth atmosphere and their own hip selves. Vegetarians won’t find much at all to satisfy them: even most of the salads come packed with animal protein. Hear live music Friday and Saturday nights 7pm-10pm in the Peacock Lounge.
215 Hennepin Ave. E., Minneapolis, 612/379-3018, www.kramarczuk.com; Mon.-Wed. 8am-8pm, Thurs.-Sat. 8am-9pm, Sun. 10am-4pm
Pick up sausages, cheese, and sweet pastries in the deli, or grab a tray and join the cafeteria line. Either way, you’d better be hungry. Kramarczuk’s has served hearty Ukrainian specialties to the Eastern European residents of Nordeast for decades: potato- and cheese-filled pelmeni (dumplings nearly the size of a tea cup), cabbage leaves stuffed with ground meat and swimming in tomato sauce, schnitzel, and hearty borscht (red and white).
Kramarczuk’s landmark sign
2121 University Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/223-8640, www.haihaimpls.com; Tues.-Fri. 3pm-midnight, Sat.-Sun. 10am-midnight
From the dynamic duo behind Hola Arepa, Hai Hai makes Southeast Asian cuisine hip and fun and serves it up in an energetic dining room filled with palms, sunlight, and soothing colors. Think authentic flavors with a twist: fried wontons with liver pâté, fried potatoes with lime-leaf tofu sauce, snap peas in adobo sauce. Hai Hai fills up fast and only takes reservations for groups of six and more.
330 Hennepin Ave. E., Minneapolis, 612/332-6278, www.masusushiandrobata.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-midnight, Fri. 11am-1am, Sat. 4pm-1am, Sun. 4pm-11pm
The sushi here is nationally recognized, but the fun parts are the izakaya (Japanese pub) snacks and robata. Robata are skewers of meat, vegetables, and rice balls that you order singly or in collections, or just tell the kitchen to keep ’em coming, while you chat and drink with friends well into the evening if you want, since the kitchen stays open late. Masu is also in the Mall of America (Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-7pm). Find it on the south side of the third floor (S344).
2422 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/781-3046, www.senyai-senlek.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm
Sen Yai Sen Lek (big noodle, little noodle) is a little different from other Thai restaurants in the area. You can still get your favorite tom yum soup and pad Thai, as well as some curries and stir-fries, but the real emphasis is on noodle dishes inspired by Thai street food. The lettuce wraps with dried shrimp are a flavor-packed favorite. Parents looking for a little change from the usual also appreciate Sen Yai Sen Lek’s child-friendly atmosphere.
720 Washington Ave. SE, Minneapolis, 612/871-5555, www.afrodeli.com; Mon.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-8pm
Afro Deli is a bright and cheerful representation of the way Minnesota’s newest immigrants are making their mark. Minnesota is home to the largest Somali population in the United States, and Afro Deli is many non-Somalis’ first, friendly introduction to sambusas (fried dough pockets filled with meat or beans) and suqaar (Somali stew), served here alongside hamburgers and falafel. Another location is in St. Paul near the University of Minnesota (5 W. 7th Pl., St. Paul, 651/888-2168, Mon.-Fri. 10:30am-9pm, Sat. 11am-9pm).
Afro Deli
2513 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/781-2627, www.holylandbrand.com; Sun.-Thurs. 9am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-9:30pm
Don’t worry, you’re in the right place: Holy Land looks like a big, chaotic grocery store because it is one. But, just to the right as you walk in is the counter where you can order massive plates of gyros, kebabs, and falafel. And there in the center is the buffet. That’s what you came here for. And I hope you came hungry. Ultrafresh pita and hummus (the best in town), made on-site, flank a long line of chicken, beef, and lamb entrées—and sometimes even goat. You can also find Holy Land in the Midtown Global Market (920 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/870-6104, Mon.-Sat. 9am-8pm, Sun. 9am-6pm).
600 Hennepin Ave. E., Minneapolis, 612/379-3030, www.brasa.us; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm
Brasa is the mostly Latin version of a meat-and-three: Pick your protein (spit-roasted chicken or pork) and your sides (fried yucca, creamed spinach, an ethereal muffin made with creamed corn). That’s it, unless you’d like to turn that juicy chicken or pork into a sandwich or construct a meal entirely out of side dishes—which isn’t a bad idea either. Or, get it to go and walk the mile to the Mississippi River for a picnic. Brasa is now in St. Paul, too (777 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/224-1302, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm).
19 5th St. NE, Minneapolis, 612/378-0611, www.gardensofsalonica.com; Tues.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm
This is the lighter, more Mediterranean side of Greek cuisine. The best things to eat are the small meze-like plates. Fill your table with them and share: hummus with pillowy Greek pita and olives, ultragarlicky skordalia potato dip, pizzas built on pita bases, and the savory flaky pastries they call boughatsa. Of course, you can also build a traditional three-course meal and make a long, comfortable evening of it in the spare, serene dining room.
306 Hennepin Ave. E., Minneapolis, 612/331-9298, www.pizzanea.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-9pm
True Neapolitan pizza is baked in a 900°F wood-fired oven, just as it is here at Pizza Nea. The pies fall somewhere between individual and sharing size (depending on how hungry and how generous you are), and the crust is a bit thicker and chewier than the classic Neapolitan crust. It holds the toppings well, from the basic Margherita with basil to an inspired pie with two fried eggs and sharp parmesan cheese. Pizza Nea also has a great list of local brews.
302 13th Ave. NE, Minneapolis, 612/676-1300, www.theanchorfishandchips.com; Tues.-Wed. 4pm-10pm, Thurs.-Fri. 4pm-11pm, Sat. 10am-11pm, Sun. 10am-10pm
Minnesota doesn’t have chippies—late-night English fish-and-chip shops—but it does have The Anchor, which helps fill that need. The menu is short, but it could be even shorter. All you really need to order is a half pound of Alaskan cod and thick french fries cut right here. Some malt vinegar and you’re done. If fish isn’t your thing, you could also get shepherd’s pie, pasties, or even a plain old burger. This pub-like joint is also a great place to go just for a beer. Note the hours: This is one of your few good options for late-night eats.
1210 Broadway Ave. W., Minneapolis, 612/529-9346, www.breakingbreadfoods.com; Mon.-Fri. 8am-3pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-4pm
Breaking Bread has a two-fold mission: First, feed people from all over the city delicious food; second, help revitalize its own north-side neighborhood with jobs and a community gathering space. The long communal tables are filled with people enjoying smoked brisket, pulled pork, fried chicken, po’boy sandwiches, and (to balance things out) a bright kale salad.
65 Main St. SE, Minneapolis, 612/331-4544, www.wilderoastcafe.com; daily 7am-11pm
In the spirit of its namesake writer, Wilde Roast is sensuous (with its plush, lounge-like interior) and decadent (with its spare-no-calorie menu). While it’s hopping all year long, this is an especially good place to spend a winter afternoon looking out over the ice-flecked Mississippi, eating the creamiest macaroni and cheese and the richest bread pudding in the Twin Cities.
413 14th Ave. SE, Minneapolis, 612/331-9991; Mon.-Sat. 6am-1pm, Sun. 9am-1pm
Just 11 stools—that’s it, 11—are arranged along the single counter stretching from the front of the room to the back. In front of the counter are the grills, where the cook runs back and forth, conducting a symphony of short orders. And behind the stools stand all the people waiting to grab your seat as soon as you’re gone. Al’s is a University of Minnesota institution, known for its pancakes and its character.
| Downtown St. Paul and West Side |
276 Exchange St. S., St. Paul, 651/224-5606, www.forepaughs.com; Tues.-Thurs. 4pm-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-10pm
Forepaugh’s is truly of another time. The setting is a three-story 1870s mansion with a grand portico, antique tchotchkes, and several working fireplaces. The menu is the best of what was considered truly fine dining a couple of generations ago: beef Wellington, duckling pâté, escargot, baked Alaska. The service is formal and well trained. Forepaugh’s even comes with a ghost story: Molly, an Irish maid in the household of Joseph Forepaugh, reputedly makes her presence known in the bar.
374 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651/224-5715, www.wafrost.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-1:30pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 10:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
Three decades ago, W. A. Frost, in the 100-year-old building where a pharmacist of the same name once ran his store, was a pioneer in the revival of the Cathedral Hill neighborhood. Today, with its arched stained glass windows, pressed-tin ceilings, and Oriental rugs, it’s still a great place to take your mom or grandma out to dinner and enjoy the elegance of a bygone era. Frost’s menu, however, is a little more up-to-date, focusing on local ingredients served in modern ways. If the beautiful patio and dining room are full, you can enjoy a full dinner in the bar. Sunday brunch at Frost is an institution.
261 5th St. E., St. Paul, 651/800-1415, www.saintdinette.com; Tues.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri. 5pm-11pm, Sat. 10am-11pm, Sun. 10am-9pm
“Dinette” is underselling things a bit: This is no humble lunch counter, but a refined dining room. While the plates are perfectly composed, the inspiration comes from the humble, homey food of North America, from Montreal (house-made bagels and the classiest bologna sandwich you’ve ever had) to New Orleans (shrimp and grits with succotash) to Mexico (chile relleno) to, well, whatever magic place salt cod churros come from.
410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651/222-5670, www.meritage-stpaul.com; Tues.-Thurs. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri. 11:30am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sat. 10am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
Mix a little joy and a little warm camaraderie with formal tableside service and serious culinary chops, and you have Meritage (rhymes with “heritage,” a nod to the California Bordeaux-style wines of the same name). From the amusements—two-bite appetizers like the “tiny tuna tartare taco on a taro chip” (try to say that without smiling)—to the starters (don’t miss the baby beet salad) and the entrées (steak frites, roast chicken, sole), straight through to the marble-topped cheese cart, this is serious fine dining that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Meritage also has a casual raw bar, with more than a dozen varieties of fresh oysters available daily.
211 7th St. W., St. Paul, 651/222-3476, www.cossettas.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-10pm, Sun. 11am-8pm
For more than 100 years, the Cossetta family has been selling Italian delicacies in downtown St. Paul, from imported pastas to salami. Downtown workers, families, and others needing something fast and filling also come to Cossetta’s for a cafeteria-style lunch and dinner, with pizzas, sandwiches, pastas, and salads. You may have to throw some elbows to get around in here during the busiest times. Upstairs in Louis Ristorante (Mon.-Thurs. 3pm-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 3pm-midnight, Sun. noon-9pm), get an old-school Italian meal, from antipasti to primi to secondi, in a dark-booth atmosphere that would have made Sinatra feel right at home.
786 Randolph Ave., St. Paul, 651/330-2245, www.muccisitalian.com; Tues.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm., Fri. 5pm-11pm, Sat. 8am-noon and 5pm-11pm, Sun. 8am-noon and 5pm-10pm
Deep-fried pizza. Did you stop reading there and start navigating to Mucci’s? Well, there’s a lot more to this place, including a lasagna so addictive they started selling it to heat at home (along with a handful of other menu items) and lemon potatoes that I now regret telling you about because there will be less for me. About the pizza: It’s Montanara-style, meaning the dough is fried, then topped with sauce and cheese.
350 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651/224-0185, www.sakurastpaul.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11:30am-2:30pm and 4pm-10:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-2:30pm and 4pm-11pm, Sun. noon-2:30pm and 4pm-9:30pm
Frequently named the best Japanese restaurant in the Twin Cities, Sakura has a little something for everyone, including inexpensive and filling teishoku dinners (like hearty, everyday combo plates), an elaborate sushi menu, and quick bento lunches. The dining room is bright and cheery—more the place for lively conversation than a romantic evening.
448 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651/222-5577, www.chengheng448.com; daily 9:30am-9:30pm
In an area where phô, bánh mì, and spring rolls are truly universal comfort food, much of the menu at Cheng Heng is familiar. But this isn’t the Vietnamese food you can find along much of University Avenue in St. Paul or Nicollet in Minneapolis. This is authentic Cambodian food, right down to the curried fish (amok), which is practically the Cambodian national dish. Fans also come here for the curry noodle soup: a bright red bowl of comfort, a little sweet, a little spicy. The decor is unpretentious, and the staff are exceedingly warm and friendly.
500 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651/222-6148; Sun.-Mon. and Wed.-Thurs. 10am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-9pm
In the string of gritty Vietnamese holes-in-the-wall along University Avenue, Trieu Chau is particularly beloved. It’s tiny, and often packed, but the kitchen moves fast enough that waits aren’t long. The menu holds few surprises for fans of this sort of food, but the sweet-and-spicy phô soup and vermicelli salads can’t be beat—and neither can the prices. A packed house has other advantages: a steady stream of freshly rolled spring rolls.
605 7th St. W., St. Paul, 651/340-9545, www.pajaritostp.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 11am-9pm
Street food goes sleek. Pajarito’s menu starts with the tacos, but you shouldn’t stop there. Most of the fun and delicious stuff is on the platillos list: small plates (some smaller than others) like queso fundido (melted cheese) and shishito peppers served elote-style (with Cotija cheese and lime). The drinks are especially good, with refreshing rather than heavy-handed cocktails.
11 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul, 651/222-8499, www.bocachicarestaurant.com; Mon. 11am-9pm, Tues.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm, Sun. 10am-9pm
The Frias family has been serving the well-established Mexican American community of St. Paul’s District del Sol since 1964. This is classic old-timey Mexican American cuisine, the better-executed forerunner of every family taco night: flour and corn tacos, chiles rellenos, tamales, flautas, and tostados. Come hungry for the generous, filling lunchtime buffet, or hang out at the bar on weekend evenings while neighbors and visitors clutch buzzers waiting for a table. Yep, those tamales are good enough to pack the massive bright yellow dining room with happy eaters.
175 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul, 651/227-2192, www.elburritomercado.com; Mon.-Sat. 7am-9pm, Sun. 7am-8pm
In the back of a grocery store, in the heart of St. Paul’s Mexican American community, you will find some of the biggest, best burritos this side of the border. To put together your lunch or dinner—or your filling single meal of the day—pick a guisado (a flavorful stew of pork, beef, or chicken) and then decide whether you want it in a taco, burrito, or gordita. It’s all made fresh on-site, right down to the generous selection of salsas.
544 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651/602-9964, www.babanis.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat. 5pm-9:30pm
Babani’s has long claimed to be the first Kurdish restaurant in the United States, a claim few are in any position to dispute. Some dishes are recognizable: tabouli, stuffed grape leaves, the yogurt dip called jaajic here and tzatziki in Greece, the salty yogurt drink called a lassi in India and dugh in Iran. Others are entirely unique: dowjic, a lemony, yogurty chicken soup; grilled rice balls stuffed with ground meat; and the house specialty, Sheik Babani, an eggplant stuffed with tomato and meat sauce. It all comes with the warm welcome you might expect from a wandering people. The restaurant itself is small and comfortably worn about the edges.
531 7th St. W., St. Paul, 651/224-7345, www.mancinis.com; Sun.-Thurs. 4:30pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 4:30pm-11pm
If Frank Sinatra himself were to appear in Mancini’s maroon and brass dining room, in your steak-stuffed state you might not even blink. Ol’ Blue Eyes might even imagine himself to be in old-time Vegas. Mancini’s is the place in downtown St. Paul to celebrate anniversaries and big corporate deals with slabs of meat, lobster tails, and carb-heavy sides of potatoes and rolls. There’s live music Wednesday-Saturday and a small dance floor.
350 Market St., St. Paul, 651/224-7455, www.stpaulgrill.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-2pm and 5:30-10pm, Fri. 11am-2pm and 5:30pm-11pm, Sat. 11am-2pm and 5pm-11pm, Sun. 10:30am-2pm and 5pm-10pm
This is old-school, make-a-grown-up-impression dining in the St. Paul Hotel. The dinner menu is almost entirely steaks, chops, and high-end seafood, with formal service in high-backed booths. (Did I say “almost?” Make that “entirely.”) If you’re not wearing your power suit, loosen your tie at the bar, where you can get an excellent burger.
St. Paul Grill
289 5th St. E., St. Paul, 651/202-3409, www.octostp.com; Mon.-Fri. 4pm-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-2pm and 4pm-10pm
Restaurateur Tim McKee is the unrivaled king of hospitality in the Twin Cities, so expect service that Gets Things Right and still makes you feel at home while you revel in dishes inspired by all of the Seven Seas, from lobster rolls with a Japanese kick to pozole verde (green-chile stew) made with fish. The extensive raw bar includes showy themed towers of shellfish. Octo is the anchor tenant in the Market House Collaborative, which also houses premium fish and meat counters, along with Salty Tart.
36 7th St. W., St. Paul, 651/698-0259, www.mickeysdiningcar.com; daily 24 hours
In 1937, a prefab diner was shipped in from New Jersey and set up in downtown St. Paul. It hasn’t closed since. Day and night the seats at the counter and the four booths are filled, and the orders of pancakes, potatoes O’Brien (hash browns with the works), and tuna melts are flying off the griddle. In a world of slick, modern-retro diners, Mickey’s is the real thing. And Hollywood has taken notice, giving Mickey’s a role in the Mighty Ducks and Jingle All the Way.
237 7th St. E., St. Paul, 651/224-2300, www.thebutteredtin.com; daily 7am-3pm
Lucky Lowertown residents: They get to wake up to this cozy neighborhood café and call it their own. While the sweets are not too sweet—including the bananas Foster French toast—the savory side of the menu has more zing than you might expect from a humble Minnesota brunch, with huevos rancheros Benedict and a breakfast hash studded with artichokes, grape tomatoes, and kalamata olives. Whatever the breakfast hot dish is, get that.
289 5th St. E., St. Paul, 612/874-9206, www.saltytart.com; Mon.-Fri. 8am-4pm, Sat.-Sun. 7am-4pm
Pastries both savory and sweet, from veggie turnovers to Guinness cupcakes, have made Salty Tart a beloved place to take a little break. Brunchy things like eggs, salmon, and avocado toast are served until 2pm.
| Summit-University and Mac-Groveland |
1096 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/289-4990, www.thelexmn.com; Mon.-Thurs. 4pm-11pm, Fri. 4pm-midnight, Sat. 10am-midnight, Sun. 10am-10pm
The Lex looks like a place where deals and careers are made—because it is. Wing-backed leather chairs. Dark wood. Dim light. And upgraded classics like Pot au Pho (Vietnamese-spiced stew) and lobster imperial. In a town where dining tends to be “come as you are,” the Lex decidedly isn’t. A little spit and polish is required.
128 Cleveland Ave. N., St. Paul, 651/645-4128, www.stewartsminnesota.com; Tues.-Fri. 11am-10pm, Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 10am-9pm
The neighbors are fiercely loyal to this cozy underground restaurant—and perhaps a little possessive. If the secret gets out, competition for seats and parking spots might get even worse. The menu celebrates what “American food” means today, from grass-fed steaks to kimchi fries to a not-so-humble patty melt.
Stewart’s
371 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651/291-1236, www.moscowonthehill.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-11:30pm, Fri. 11am-1am, Sat. 10am-1am, Sun. 10am-11pm
Nobody does long, lavish celebrations better than the Russians. If you’re looking for a quick bite before a show, go elsewhere. If you’re looking for an experience that will last all evening long, there is nothing better than Moscow on the Hill. Russian meals are five courses long: soup, salad, zakuski (appetizers, served family style), main dish (often the least significant part of the meal), and dessert, with frequent stops for vodka in between. Musicians stroll the dining room, and as the evening wears on, it turns into one big party.
704 Cleveland Ave. S., St. Paul, 651/696-1066, www.punchpizza.com; Mon.-Fri. 4pm-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-10pm
Pizza—especially when it takes about four minutes to cook in an 800°F oven—is the ultimate fast food. But it doesn’t feel like fast food when it’s got gorgonzola and roasted red peppers on it and is served in a classy—but extremely family-friendly—dining room with a beer and wine license. This, the original Punch Pizza, has table service, unlike the other nine locations, including one in Minneapolis (3226 Lake St. W., 612/929-0006, daily 11am-10pm) and another in St. Paul’s Grand Avenue shopping district (769 Grand Ave., 615/602-6068, daily 11am-10pm).
1278 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/696-1666, www.everestongrand.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-9pm, Fri. 11:30am-3pm and 5pm-10pm, Sat. 11:30am-10pm, Sun. 11:30am-9pm
Nepali cuisine is a cross between northern Indian and Chinese, based on lots of ghee and very mild spices. Momos, Tibetan dumplings served either steamed or fried, are the highlight of the menu and reason enough to come. The curries, pakoras (batter-fried vegetables), and samosas will feel like milder versions of familiar Indian favorites. Keep in mind that this is hearty cuisine: The “lighter” side of the menu is a selection of fried rice dishes.
799 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651/222-3301, www.ngonbistro.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
Traditional Vietnamese flavors meet colonial French influences meet American cuisine in the farm-to-fork era—that’s Ngon Bistro. From the polished, kitsch-free dining room to the mussels and smoked trout on the menu, this is definitely not your typical hole-in-the-wall Asian joint. You can scratch your itch for phô (soup) or bún (noodles), or you can order a Vietnamese-spiced local pork shoulder. Weekend brunches are a treat, with everything from rabbit dumplings to an excellent local smoked trout omelet.
Sandwich a bit of cheese inside a burger before you cook it and you have a remarkably simple Minnesota classic: the Juicy Lucy, or “Jucy” (presumably so it mimics the spelling of “Lucy”). The cheese gets volcanically hot and tends to squirt out in dangerously random trajectories. And a good Lucy is delicious.
a classic Juicy Lucy
Two Minneapolis neighborhood bars lay claim to the Lucy. Matt’s Bar (3500 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/722-7072, www.mattsbar.com, Sun.-Wed. 11am-midnight, Thurs.-Sat. 11am-1am) takes a certain corporate pride in the misspelling “Jucy.” The 5-8 Club (5800 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/823-5858, www.5-8club.com, Sun.-Wed. 11am-10pm, Thurs.-Sat. 11am-11:30pm) makes burgers that are just as good but spelled correctly.
Although it can’t claim to have been there at the Juicy Lucy’s birth, Blue Door Pub (1811 Selby Ave., St. Paul, www.thebdp.com, daily 11am-1am) has perfected the art of the cheese-stuffed burger. The menu goes beyond cheddar and American to the “Blucy” (blue cheese) and a dozen other variations, and includes an array beers on tap to boot. Blue Door also has locations in Minneapolis’s Longfellow neighborhood (3448 42nd Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/315-2470, daily 11am-11pm), Lyn-Lake (3006 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/353-4838, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-1am, Fri.-Sat. 11am-2am), and near the U of M (1514 Como Ave. SE, Minneapolis, 612/367-4964, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-1am). Many are also fervent fans of Casper & Runyon’s Nook (click here), prized for its “Juicy Nookie Burger.”
1672 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/348-8541, www.grandcatchmn.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
Ordering at Grand Catch is super simple: Choose your shellfish. Choose your sauce. Tell your server how spicy you want it to be. That’s your seafood boil. This is one of just a few places to scratch that particular itch in the Twin Cities. The atmosphere is down-home and the spice level is high.
651 Cleveland Ave. S., St. Paul, 651/698-6276, www.cecilsdeli.com; daily 9am-9pm
Cecil’s isn’t kosher, but it is an undeniably authentic Jewish deli, from the mile-long menu exhorting you to “Eat, eat!” to the crisp latkes and sweet cheese blintzes. Get your sandwich “New York style”—just the meat, a heaping cup of it, and the bread—or with more Midwestern-style fixings. You know all those arguments about what really belongs in a Reuben? You can settle them here, as Cecil’s serves several variations on the classic sandwich. You can also buy excellent pastrami and corned beef (kosher available) and house-baked loaves of pumpernickel and rye in the deli.
492 Hamline Ave. S., St. Paul, 651/698-4347, www.crnook.com; Sun.-Thurs. 11am-1am, Fri.-Sat. 11am-2am
There is some dispute over the origin of the Jucy Lucy—an inside-out cheeseburger that when made properly sears the roof of your mouth in a delightful way—and there are even a few holdout partisans of other Jucy Lucys about town. But there is no disputing the fervent love St. Paulites hold for the Nook’s burgers. The bar itself is tiny (and this is a bar, but it’s unlikely that anyone has ever ordered a beer here without a burger), and during peak burger-eating hours you will have to wait. But you will know when the hot cheese hits your mouth that it has been worth it. The bar is open until 2am.
850 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/224-5687, www.cafelatte.com; Sun.-Thurs. 9am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-11pm
Ladies who lunch love to lunch at Cafe Latte. Students, families, and young lovers also love it, along with anyone hungry for a relatively quick and relatively healthy bite. Choose pasta salads, tossed salads, soups, and sandwiches made to order as you slide your tray along the cafeteria side, or order wood-oven pizza specialties on the other side. Fair warning: Although service is quick, the line sometimes snakes out the door. Stop by on weekday afternoons for a refreshing plate of sweets and savories in the style of an English afternoon tea.
750 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651/293-1655, www.grandolecreamery.com; Sun.-Thurs. noon-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-11pm
The smell of hot, fresh waffle cones is the smell of summer, and it flows out onto Grand Avenue, along with the overflow crowd of ice cream fiends. The flavors rotate daily, with 31 of a possible 200 on offer at any one time. Most are classics, with a few surprises like birthday cake and honey crunch. If you feel like jumping into the middle of a Twin Cities controversy, visit here and Minneapolis’s Sebastian Joe’s on the same day and declare your allegiance for one over the other. Winter hours may be shorter.
2034 Marshall Ave., St. Paul, 651/603-1458, www.izzysicecream.com; daily 11am-11pm
Can’t choose just one of Izzy’s one-of-a-kind flavors, like key lime pie, Norwegian chai, or dark chocolate zin? Get two. Every scoop of ice cream comes with an “Izzy scoop”—a melon ball-size bonus. Jeff Sommers, the man behind this beloved neighborhood ice cream shop, believes in high-quality ingredients and treading a little more lightly on the earth (Izzy’s is entirely solar powered). When the Food Network’s Bobby Flay challenged him to an ice cream-making contest, Izzy’s hot brown sugar flavor won handily. Izzy’s is also in Minneapolis, near the Guthrie Theater (1100 2nd St. S., Minneapolis, 612/206-3356, daily 11am-11pm).
| Como and St. Anthony |
510 Snelling Ave. N., St. Paul, 651/646-4747, www.fasika.com; daily 11am-midnight
The center of the Twin Cities’ large and growing Ethiopian community is right here. On weekends, especially, the tables are filled with large groups of family and friends, and if you’re an Ethiopian cuisine newbie, you’re likely to be the only newbie in the restaurant. Not to worry: The menu includes full descriptions in English, along with photos. Everything starts with injera, the spongy fermented bread that serves as both plate and wrap for the warmly spiced stews. You’ll also find a real rarity: Ethiopian wine.
761 Snelling Ave. N., St. Paul, 651/647-9004, www.mirrorofkorea.com; Mon. and Wed.-Fri. 11am-9:30pm, Sat.-Sun. noon-9:30pm
From dolsot bibimbap (rice topped with pickled vegetables and an egg, served in a hot stone bowl) to barbecued beef and pork to yook hae (sharply seasoned steak tartare with fresh garlic and cucumber and topped with an egg yolk), Mirror of Korea serves Korean classics with a strong eye toward tradition. The table full of pickled accompaniments, far beyond kimchi, pleases even the pickiest fan of Korean food. And since 1988, Mirror of Korea has created a lot of those fans.
2264 Como Ave., St. Paul, 651/645-9181, www.finnishbistro.com; daily 6:30am-8:30pm
Finnish transplant Soile Anderson has brought some of the best of her homeland’s cuisine to this friendly, elegant bistro in the leafy St. Anthony neighborhood, where the atmosphere, too, is pleasantly Scandinavian. Finnish-style breakfast is served all day, including oatcakes, plates of lox and veggies, and pulla French toast, made with a traditional Finnish cardamom bread.
| Greater Twin Cities |
739 Lake St. E., Wayzata, 952/444-5200, www.bellecourrestaurant.com; Mon.-Fri. 5pm-10pm, Sat. 10am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Sun. 10am-2pm and 5pm-9pm
When star chef Gavin Kaysen of downtown Minneapolis’s Spoon and Stable decided it was time to conquer the suburbs, he went full-on classic French—trout amandine, duck, steamed mussels—in a space as bright and beautiful as a French farmhouse. Bellecour’s bakery (open daily 7am-5pm) is equally as French and inviting, with a crepe cake that will haunt your dreams (in a good way). The bar is open an hour later and an hour earlier than the dining room.
294 Grove Ln. E., Wayzata, 952/698-7900, www.6smith.com; Mon.-Thurs. 11am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, Sun. 10am-9pm
Can’t afford a home with a lake view? You’re not alone. So make this expansive view of Lake Minnetonka yours for the evening, whether you take a seat right on the dock or on the rooftop staring far out over the horizon. The menu is as indulgent as the location: steak, lobster, oysters, scallops, and overstuffed, over-the-top burgers. It’s like everything is carefully calculated to make sure every guest leans back and sighs, “This is the life.”
700 Lake St. E., Wayzata, 952/473-5253, www.covwayzata.com; Mon.-Fri. 11am-1am, Sat. 10am-1am, Sun. 10am-midnight
Quick: Name some dishes you can improve upon with lobster. Macaroni and cheese? Sure. Cobb salad? Why not. Cioppino? Classic. Guacamole? Turns out the diners at the upscale CōV in the posh suburb of Wayzata can’t get enough of it. It’s become de rigueur to start a meal here with that over-the-top mash-up. Like the massive 200-person dining room, every dish at CōV is dressed to impress—and not with fancy reductions and swirls but with luxury ingredients, like truffle oil, prime rib, and swordfish.
If you’re serious about coffee—no, really, really serious—you’re going to feel right at home in the Twin Cities. If you care about single-origin beans and pour-over techniques and want to have a serious conversation about the benefits of the Clover—you can find your people. Not at every neighborhood coffeehouse, to be sure. But you won’t have to look far.
Peace Coffee
While it’s a close race, the most hardcore of the hardcore coffee shops may be Five Watt (3745 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/259-7519, www.fivewattcoffee.com, daily 6am-10pm). In addition to the myriad ways the baristas will brew up your coffee, they also take a mixologist’s approach to your morning drink, with bitters, herbs, and more. Spyhouse (945 Broadway St. NE, Minneapolis, 612/345-4348; 2451 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/871-3177; 2404 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/377-2278; all locations: http://spyhousecoffee.com, Mon.-Fri. 6am-11pm, Sat. 7am-11pm, Sun. 8am-11pm) is a serene home away from home for freelancers and students.
A few mini coffee empires known for carefully sourced and exquisitely roasted small-batch beans each have multiple locations, including Dogwood (3001 Hennepin Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/354-2952, www.dogwoodcoffee.com, Mon.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat. 8am-9pm, Sun. 9am-6pm; 4021 Lake St. E., Minneapolis, 612/886-1585, Mon.-Fri. 6:30am-7pm, Sat. 8am-7pm, Sun. 8am-6pm; 825 Carleton St., St. Paul, 651/340-9248, Mon.-Fri. 7am-7pm, Sat. 8am-7pm, Sun. 8am-6pm). And people who care as much about coffee growers as coffee beans choose Peace Coffee (www.peacecoffee.com, 3262 Minnehaha Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/877-7760, Mon.-Fri. 6:30am-8pm, Sat. 7am-8pm, Sun. 8am-8pm; Lakewinds Co-Op, 6420 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/814-8079, daily 7am-8pm; Capella Tower, 225 6th St. S., Minneapolis, 612/248-8677, Mon.-Fri. 6am-5:30pm). Peace Coffee got its start as a bike-delivered bean business and now draws coffee drinkers to its own doors.
6439 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612/353-5501, http://lyn65.com; Tues.-Thurs. 4pm-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-midnight, Sun. 4pm-9pm
Lyn65 takes its culinary cues from all over the world: kimchi, fried chicken, ’nduja (a spicy, spreadable sausage), masa cakes, flan. But what ties it all together is a simple formula: comfort + big flavor = oversize indulgence. The ambience is intimate and dimly lit, but early in the evening you would still feel comfortable bringing the whole family. The menu changes often, but you’ll always find a selection of flatbreads and the excellent Lyn65 burger, unapologetically topped with American cheese.
4154 Broadway Ave. W., Robbinsdale, 763/537-7267, http://pigatemypizza.com; Wed.-Sat. noon-2pm and 5pm-10pm
The world needs a new category of pie to describe Pig Ate My Pizza. It’s cooked in an ultrahot oven, Neapolitan-style. But you can also get some pies baked on a brioche crust. The pizzas are close to personal-size, but you’re definitely going to want to order a round of several to share, so you can experience the full range of wild kitchen creativity. If it’s ever been dreamed up in a kitchen, somebody here has tried to put it on a pizza: mussels, pickles, chicken tikka, a pickled egg. And the atmosphere is just as raucous as the menu.
4154 Broadway Ave. W., Robbinsdale, 763/535-1131, www.travailkitchen.com; Tues.-Sat. 5pm-10pm
Playing with food is not only allowed, it’s the entire ethos at Travail. A meal here comes out in more than a dozen stages—sometimes up to 20—each one attempting to turn some principle of flavor or texture on its head. Molecular gastronomy fans will recognize a few of the tricks, but Travail’s air of happy chaos takes itself less seriously than some other cities’ modern hot spots. Buy tickets online (yes, tickets for dinner) up to two months in advance. To get a seat without tickets and to order these “micro plates” à la carte, get a seat at Travail’s sister restaurant, The Rookery (4124 Broadway Ave. W., Robbinsdale, 763/535-1131, www.travailkitchen.com, Wed.-Sat. 5pm-close), next door.
