Ackee and Saltfish is Jamaica’s national dish and a must-try if visiting the country. The dish is traditionally eaten for breakfast, but quite often makes it onto the lunch menu or is served as a light bite. To make life easier, you can now buy packs of prepared saltfish fillets, with the skin and bones removed, or pre-cooked saltfish (bacalao) in tins. This version is my old favourite and is great served with Johnny Cakes (page 32).
SERVES 4
450g saltfish or ready-to-use salt cod
2 large eggs
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 red pepper, de-seeded and roughly chopped
1 green pepper, de-seeded and roughly chopped
4 spring onions, chopped
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
½ Scotch bonnet chilli (or similar), de-seeded and finely chopped
If preparing your own saltfish, place the fillets in cold water and soak overnight, changing the water a couple of times, then drain.
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add the saltfish and simmer for 10–15 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Drain well and pat dry. While the fish is still warm, flake and remove any skin and bones (trying not to break up the flakes too much), then set aside.
Bring a separate pan of water to the boil, add the eggs and boil for 8 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the peppers. Fry over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes until tender. Add the spring onions, thyme, chilli and tomatoes and fry for a further 3–4 minutes.
Add the saltfish and ackee and cook for 2 minutes until heated through, carefully turning over from time to time to avoid breaking the ackee.
Drain and peel the boiled eggs and cut into quarters.
To serve, spoon the hot saltfish and ackee into a large serving dish, top with the egg quarters and sprinkle with chopped parsley and some freshly ground black pepper. Enjoy with Hot Pepper Sauce for an extra kick and my Johnny Cakes.
TIP: Ackee is a delicious vegan substitute for scrambled eggs.
ACKEE & SALTFISH
BUTTERFLIED CHILLI SARDINES
This is a quick and simple dish that makes a great starter or light lunch. The chilli marinade works beautifully with the rich flavour of the sardines. Butterflying sardines is not only an easy way to get rid of all of the fine bones, it also reduces the cooking time and they look lovely served on the plate with a simple salad.
SERVES 4
8 sardines, scaled, gutted, heads removed, washed and butterflied (ask your fishmonger or see the Tip below)
Watercress, Cashew and Coconut Salad (page 85), to serve
For the marinade
2 tbsp chilli paste
2 garlic cloves, finely crushed
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
zest and juice of 1 lemon
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
a handful of coriander, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preheat the grill to high.
To make the marinade, mix together the chilli paste, garlic, rapeseed oil, lemon zest and juice in a medium bowl, whisking until well combined. Add the parsley and coriander, and some salt and pepper to taste, and stir through.
Dip the butterflied sardines into the marinade until they are completely covered and place them skin-side up onto a large flat baking tray. Place the tray under the hot grill for 5–6 minutes until the sardines are cooked through.
Serve immediately, with my Watercress, Cashew and Coconut Salad (page 85).
TIP: To butterfly the sardines, open out the gutted fish, skin-side up, on the work surface. Holding the tail end with one hand, firmly press along the backbone until the fish is completely flat. Turn the fish over, then gently pull away the backbone until you reach the tail end. Cut off the backbone with kitchen scissors and discard. Scrape away any remaining fine bones, or use tweezers to pick them out. Alternatively, ask your fishmonger to do all of this for you!
BUTTERFLIED CHILLI SARDINES
CHARGRILLED CITRUS-SALTED PRAWNS WITH HOT PEPPER SAUCE
My Citrus Salt goes with so many foods. Treat it as a seasoning – it’s fab on chips and sweet potato wedges. Be careful when handling the Scotch bonnet chillies – use rubber gloves or lightly oil your fingers before prepping and make sure you wash your hands afterwards. For those of you who love things spicy – this hot pepper sauce really has one hell of a kick!
SERVES 4 (AS A STARTER)
300g large king prawns, peeled, de-veined, tails left on
1 large onion, halved with root intact, cut into 8 wedges
5 garlic cloves, whole
100g Scotch bonnet chillies, halved and de-seeded
a drizzle of olive oil
juice of 1 orange
a good splash of rum
a large handful of fresh herbs (I use tarragon, flat-leaf parsley and coriander)
Preheat a chargrill pan over a medium–high heat.
First make the hot pepper sauce. Place the onion, garlic and chillies into the hot chargrill pan or a frying pan, drizzle with a little olive oil and fry over a medium–high heat for 4–5 minutes or until nicely charred. Pop into a blender or food processor, add the orange juice, a good splash of rum and the herbs and blend until smooth. Transfer to a serving dish.
Place the prawns in a large bowl, add the oil and citrus salt and mix together. Place the prawns onto the hot chargrill and cook for 4–5 minutes or until cooked through, turning occasionally to prevent burning.
Serve the prawns with the hot pepper sauce. Any leftover sauce can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.
CHARGRILLED CITRUS-SALTED PRAWNS WITH HOT PEPPER SAUCE
SPINACH, SWEET POTATO & CHICKPEA SOUP
This soup is a hearty broth that is quick and simple to make. Once you’ve tried it, you’ll want to make it time and time again.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp sunflower oil
1 white onion, finely diced
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 sweet potato, diced
1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained
2 tomatoes, roughly chopped
a pinch of chilli powder
1 tsp honey
750ml vegetable stock, hot
225g baby spinach leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion, garlic and cumin seeds and gently cook for 2–3 minutes without colouring. Add the sweet potato and cook for 2–3 minutes, then add the chickpeas, tomatoes, chilli powder and honey and cook for a further 1–2 minutes until the tomatoes begin to soften.
Stir in the vegetable stock, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the sweet potato is tender.
Add the spinach and cook for 1 minute, stirring until the spinach wilts. Season to taste, ladle into bowls and serve.
SPINACH, SWEET POTATO & CHICKPEA SOUP
CRAB & CHILLI CORNBREAD MUFFINS
These savoury snacks are perfect when served warm straight from the oven and extra delicious spread with butter. They’re also great for lunchboxes or picnics – that is, if you can wait that long!
MAKES 10
50g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
150g self-raising flour
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tsp salt
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp ground white pepper
150g yellow cornmeal (polenta)
2 eggs, lightly beaten
300ml buttermilk
1 red chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped
a small handful each of coriander and flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
100g white crab meat
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 and butter a 10-hole mini muffin tin.
Sift the flour, sugar, salt and baking powder into a large mixing bowl, add the white pepper and cornmeal and stir to combine. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients, pour in the eggs, buttermilk and remaining melted butter and briefly stir together until you have a smooth batter. Do not over-mix as it will make the muffins heavy. Fold in the chilli, herbs and crab meat until just combined.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 10–12 minutes, or until golden and an inserted skewer comes out clean. Serve warm.
CRAB & CHILLI CORNBREAD MUFFINS
ACKEE & SALTFISH FRITTERS WITH RED PEPPER ROUILLE
This one is a corker! A great twist on a traditional Jamaican dish and perfect to enjoy with friends and a nice cold beer. Ackee is a delicate fruit with the texture of scrambled eggs, so treat it carefully when mixing the batter.
MAKES ABOUT 12 FRITTERS
450g saltfish fillets or ready-to-use saltfish
1 spring onion, finely chopped
1 small red pepper/sweet pepper, finely chopped
1 tsp finely chopped Scotch bonnet chilli
340g plain flour
170ml cold water
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp paprika
1 x 280g tin ackee, drained and rinsed
freshly ground black pepper
vegetable oil, for shallow-frying
For the Red Pepper Rouille
2 red chillies
1 head of garlic
1 x 290g jar roasted red peppers, drained and rinsed
1 egg yolk
2 tsp smoked paprika
200ml olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
If preparing your own saltfish, place the fillets in cold water and soak overnight, changing the water a couple of times, then drain.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add the saltfish and simmer for 10–15 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Drain well and pat dry. While the fish is still warm, flake and remove any skin and bones (trying not to break up the flakes too much), then set aside.
Meanwhile, make the rouille. Tightly wrap the chillies and the head of garlic in foil and roast in the oven for 20–30 minutes, or until soft. Set aside to cool.
When cool enough to handle, use a small knife to peel off and discard the garlic skin and place the soft roasted garlic and chillies in a food processor, along with the roasted red peppers, egg yolk and paprika. Process until smooth. With the motor still running, very slowly pour in the oil through the feed tube of the processor until you have a smooth, thick mayonnaise. Season to taste, cover and chill until ready to serve.
In a large mixing bowl, mix together the spring onion, red pepper and chilli, then stir in the flour, cold water, baking powder and paprika until you have a batter. Add the saltfish, then gently fold in the ackee until combined. Season with a grinding of black pepper.
Heat 1cm depth of oil in a large deep heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add spoonfuls of the saltfish batter mix to the pan, making sure you don’t overcrowd the pan. Cook the fritters for 2–3 minutes on each side, allowing them to turn golden before flipping over. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper and repeat until all the batter has been used up.
Serve the fritters with a small bowl of the red pepper chilli rouille on the side for dipping.
ACKEE & SALTFISH FRITTERS WITH RED PEPPER ROUILLE
HOT PEPPER CRAB BEIGNET WITH LIME ANCHO AIOLI
These are deliciously light and moreish fritters – perfect for a starter or a tasty snack. Fresh crab makes all the difference, but if you can’t get your hands on any then good-quality tinned crab meat is just fine.
SERVES 4
125ml whole milk
125ml water
100g unsalted butter, diced
1 tsp salt
150g plain flour
4 eggs, beaten
150g white crab meat
50g brown crab meat
1 tbsp hot pepper sauce
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
For the Lime Ancho Aioli
zest and juice of 2 limes
3 egg yolks
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp ground ancho chilli powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
200ml vegetable oil
First, make the aioli. Place all the ingredients except the oil into a small food processor and process until well combined. With the motor still running, very slowly pour in the oil through the feed tube of the processor in a steady stream until you have a thick mayonnaise. If it is looking too thick, add a couple of drops of water. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
Place the milk, water, butter and salt into a saucepan, set over a medium heat and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour with a wooden spoon or spatula until smooth. Return the pan to a low heat and cook, stirring continuously, for 2–3 minutes until the mixture begins to leave the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat and scrape the mixture into a large bowl. Using a whisk, gradually add the beaten eggs, until the mixture is smooth and shiny. Fold in the white and brown crab meat and the hot pepper sauce.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan with oil to a depth of 2½cm and set over a medium–high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds.
Carefully drop no more than 6–8 dessertspoonfuls of the crab mixture into the hot oil and gently move them around with a slotted spoon to prevent them from sticking together. Fry the beignets for 2–3 minutes until golden and crispy, then remove to drain on kitchen paper. Repeat until all the mixture has been used up.
Serve with the lime ancho aioli for dipping.
HOT PEPPER CRAB BEIGNET WITH LIME ANCHO AIOLI
JAMAICAN BEEF PATTIES
No Caribbean cookbook would be complete without a recipe for beef patties. These spicy, baked snacks are sold from street vendors’ stalls, roadside shacks and canteens all over Jamaica and I ate plenty of them during filming!
MAKES 12 MEDIUM PATTIES
For the pastry
500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
2 tbsp good-quality curry powder
1 tbsp turmeric
a large pinch of fine sea salt
1 tbsp cumin seeds, lightly toasted
250g unsalted butter, diced and chilled
50ml iced water
1 egg, beaten, for glazing
For the filling
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp good-quality curry powder
1 tsp ground allspice
1 Scotch bonnet chilli, finely diced
3 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves picked
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
500g minced beef
300ml beef stock
To make the pastry, sift together the flour, curry powder, turmeric and salt in a large bowl, then transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the lightly toasted cumin seeds and butter, then pulse until you have coarse crumbs. Slowly add half the iced water, pulsing until the dough comes together – if necessary, add a little more water until the dough is formed. Scrape the dough back into the bowl and bring together into a ball. Tightly wrap in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for 25 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6 and line a baking tray with baking parchment.
To make the filling, heat the oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for 8–10 minutes or until soft. Stir in the curry powder, allspice, chilli, thyme, salt and pepper and continue to cook for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Add the minced beef and cook until browned all over, breaking up the meat as you go. Add the beef stock and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and slowly cook, stirring occasionally, for 20–30 minutes, or until the stock has reduced and the meat is sticky and well coated. Set aside to cool.
On a lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to roll out the chilled pastry to a thickness of 5mm, then cut the pastry into 14-cm circles. Divide the cooled beef mixture between the circles, placing the mixture on one half of each circle and making sure enough space is left around the edges for sealing. Lightly brush the edge of each pastry with beaten egg, then fold the pastry over to enclose the filling in a half-moon shape. Tightly seal the edges with the back of a spoon or the tines of a fork.
Place the patties on the lined baking tray, lightly brush with the remaining beaten egg and bake for 20–25 minutes, or until golden and crisp.
JAMAICAN BEEF PATTIES
JOHNNY CAKES
The infamous Johnny Cake is one of the most loved foods of the Caribbean! There are quite a few variations on the recipe, depending on where you are; they can be sweeter or cakier or they can be flatter (like the ones I have served with the Spiced Pimento King Prawns on page 120). Johnny Cakes can be eaten for breakfast, lunch (try slicing them open and filling with your favourite cheese and meats) or dinner and can be enjoyed alongside many of the dishes in this book. They go especially well with another Caribbean classic – Ackee and Saltfish (page 14).
SERVES 4–6
225g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
3 tsp granulated sugar
½ tsp salt
1½ tbsp butter
120ml milk
cold water, as needed
240ml vegetable oil, for frying
Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl and mix in the sugar, salt and butter with your hands. Add the milk and enough water to form a dough. Knead just until the dough is smooth and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to roll out the dough to a thickness of 1½cm, then use a cookie cutter to cut the dough into circles.
Heat the oil in a large deep heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Test the oil is hot enough for frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. Add the cakes and fry for 3–4 minutes until puffed up and golden, turning them over halfway through the cooking time. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper before serving.
JOHNNY CAKES
LOTUS & PLANTAIN CRISPS WITH PEANUT GREMOLATA & DIPPING SAUCE
Delicious, crunchy lotus root is a rather strange-looking nutritious plant, which is said to help improve the digestive system. They make amazing chips and, paired here with plantain and my spicy peanut dipping sauce, they also make a moreish snack or appetiser. Make sure you use a green plantain rather than a yellow one – it won’t crisp up if it’s yellow and ripe.
SERVES 4
300g lotus root/stem
1 green plantain
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 tsp chilli powder
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
large banana leaf (optional), to serve
For the Peanut Gremolata
75g unsalted roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
zest of 2 lemons
a handful of coriander, roughly chopped
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
For the Dipping Sauce
1 tbsp oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 small red chilli, finely chopped
2 tbsp light brown sugar
4 tsp sweet soy sauce
2 tbsp crunchy peanut butter
200ml coconut milk
First, make the peanut gremolata. Combine the peanuts and lemon zest in a small bowl, stir through the chopped coriander and parsley, then add the garlic and mix until well combined. The mixture should be coarse and crunchy. Set aside.
To make the peanut dipping sauce, heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the garlic, onion and chilli and cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally, until soft but not coloured. Add the sugar, increase the heat and cook, stirring, for about 2–3 minutes until caramelised. Reduce the heat, stir in the sweet soy sauce and peanut butter and cook for a further 5–6 minutes. Finally, add the coconut milk and cook until the sauce is the consistency of ketchup – nice and sticky, but not too thick. Set aside until ready to serve.
When you are ready to fry the crisps, peel the lotus root and plantains and slice very thinly, preferably on a mandoline. Rinse the lotus root under cold water, drain well and pat dry on kitchen paper.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan or a wok with oil to a depth of 2½cm and set over a medium–high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. Carefully add the lotus slices and deep-fry for 2–3 minutes or until crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper. Repeat the process with the plantain slices. Dust with chilli powder and season with salt and pepper.
To serve, lay a banana leaf (if using) on a large serving plate and place the lotus and plantain crisps on top. Sprinkle over the crunchy peanut gremolata topping and serve with the dipping sauce in a small bowl on the side.
LOTUS & PLANTAIN CRISPS WITH PEANUT GREMOLATA & DIPPING SAUCE
COCONUT
Coconut, of course, famously grows all over the Caribbean. It is a symbol of the tropics and an important ingredient in Caribbean cooking. The whole ‘nut’ is used in many different ways, in savoury, sweet or drinks recipes, and the shell doesn’t go to waste either, being often used to make jewellery, bowls or utensils. Coconut Rundown – a method of cooking in coconut milk – is a popular dish of the islands. As well as using coconut to add flavour and texture to sauces, you can also use coconut oil for frying (it’s used in Ital cooking – see also page 46) or as a substitute ingredient in vegan cooking.
The Caribbeans were drinking coconut water long before it became a health craze. My first experience of coconut as a young child was actually in the market in Northcote Road, South London. My mum would check the weight of them and would always remind me: “the heavier the nut, the juicier it will be”. Of course, we were only exposed to the coconuts with brown, hairy skin – the type that you would try to win at fun fairs. We loved the juice inside as a refreshing drink, but mostly my mum would grate the flesh into boiling water to make coconut milk for a delicious rundown.
In the Caribbean, there are a lot of green coconuts – as my late dad would say, “some as big as me head!” I can still remember my first trip to Jamaica and my uncle Harry climbing the coconut tree, chopping the coconuts down with his machete and opening them up for us kids to drink. We’d then scoop out the soft flesh to eat – divine.
ROASTED SWEET POTATO & COCONUT SOUP
Roasting really brings out the natural sweetness and flavour of vegetables. This sumptuous soup is creamy and sweet with a hint of spice.
SERVES 4
500g sweet potatoes, roughly diced
1 red onion, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
2-cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1 red chilli, roughly chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp good-quality curry powder
1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
400ml vegetable stock
To serve
a small handful of coriander, chopped
toasted coconut shards
lime wedges
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
Mix together the sweet potatoes, red onion, garlic, ginger and chilli on a large baking tray or in a roasting tin. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle over the curry powder. Cover with foil and roast for 30 minutes, or until tender.
Transfer the roasted mixture to a blender or food processor. Pour in the coconut milk and stock and blend to a smooth and silky soup.
Pour the soup into a saucepan and gently heat through over a medium heat.
Serve, topped with chopped coriander and toasted coconut shards, with lime wedges on the side for squeezing over.
ROASTED SWEET POTATO & COCONUT SOUP
SPICED CORNMEAL-COATED OKRA WITH SMOKED TZATZIKI
These crispy, spiced okra bites are a delicious party snack, especially with – dare I say – my Rum Pu Punch (page 235)! If you haven’t got any buttermilk, use fresh milk with a squeeze of lemon juice.
SERVES 6–8
½ tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp black peppercorns
2 tsp chilli powder, plus extra for dusting
1 x 200g tub tzatziki (store-bought)
150g coarse cornmeal (polenta)
75g cornflour
150ml buttermilk
2 garlic cloves, minced
2½-cm piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and minced
175g okra, trimmed and halved lengthways
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
sea salt
Place a small dry frying pan over a low heat and toast the cumin, coriander, black mustard and fennel seeds and black peppercorns until aromatic – it doesn’t take long, about 30 seconds. Let cool slightly and tip into a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, add the chilli powder and a pinch of salt and grind well.
Add ½ teaspoon of the ground spices to the tub of tzatziki, stir well and set aside.
Place the remaining spice mixture into a large plastic freezer bag or bowl along with the cornmeal and cornflour.
Put the buttermilk, garlic and ginger into a large bowl and stir to combine. Add the okra and gently mix until evenly coated. Tip the buttermilk-coated okra into the spiced flour bag or bowl and shake or toss until well covered.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan with vegetable oil to a depth of 2½cm and set over a medium–high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. Carefully add the okra to the oil in batches and deep-fry for 2–3 minutes until golden and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper.
Season the okra with salt and a dusting of chilli powder and serve immediately, with the smoked tzatziki for dipping.
SPICED CORNMEAL-COATED OKRA WITH SMOKED TZATZIKI
GREEN BANANA ROSTI WITH SALTFISH GUACAMOLE
The national dish of Saint Lucia is Green Fig Salad. Oddly, green figs are not actually figs, but rather green bananas – the island’s largest export. No one really knows the reason why the locals call them green figs, however here is my spin on their popular dish using the fruit with two names. Don’t get your green bananas and plantains confused – although they are from the same family, they are completely different.
SERVES 4
For the Green Banana Rosti
4 green bananas, peeled
juice of 1 lemon
2 thyme sprigs, finely chopped
½ red Scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped
3 spring onions, finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
25g butter, diced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Saltfish Guacamole
1 large avocado, peeled, stoned and roughly chopped
250g saltfish, flaked
½ Scotch bonnet chilli, finely chopped
1 plum tomato, de-seeded and chopped
a small handful of coriander, chopped
juice of ½ lime
freshly ground black pepper
To serve
chilli oil
coriander leaves
To make the rosti, coarsely grate the green banana into a large bowl. Add the lemon juice and immediately mix together to prevent the banana oxidising and turning black. Gather the grated banana in your hands and squeeze tightly to remove any excess juice.
Put the squeezed banana into a clean bowl and add the thyme, chilli and spring onion, season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Use your hands to divide the mixture into 8 and squeeze together into round rosti cakes – they can break up slightly, so squeeze tightly (see Tip).
Set a frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil. Carefully slide the rosti into the pan, in batches if necessary, and fry for 5–6 minutes on each side. During cooking, drop in the butter for flavour and colour. When golden on both sides, remove the rosti from the pan and drain on kitchen paper.
To make the saltfish guacamole, put the avocado into a large bowl, slightly mash with a fork then add the flaked saltfish, chilli, tomato, coriander and lime juice. Season with pepper and gently combine with a fork.
Place the rosti on serving plates and spoon the guacamole on top. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves and drizzle around a little chilli oil.
TIP: To make the rosti nice and round, use a metal food ring and press down firmly, before popping out and straight into the frying pan.
GREEN BANANA ROSTI WITH SALTFISH GUACAMOLE
ONION OKRA BHAJI WITH HOT SAUCE MANGO CHUTNEY
Ever since the mid-1800s, with the arrival of indentured labourers, there has been a heavy Indian influence on Trinidadian cuisine. So, during my visit to the island, I re-created a popular Indian snack with a Caribbean twist. This simple-to-make sweet and spicy chutney is the perfect dip for these light and spicy bhaji.
SERVES 4–6
3 white onions, trimmed and finely sliced
1 red pepper, de-seeded and finely sliced
8–10 okra, washed, trimmed, de-seeded (see tip) and finely sliced on an angle
50–75g gram (chickpea) flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp chilli flakes
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground allspice
a pinch each of salt and pepper
vegetable oil, for frying
For the Hot Sauce Mango Chutney
4 tbsp mango chutney
2 tsp Hot Pepper Sauce (see page 18 or store-bought)
2 spring onions, finely sliced
a small handful of coriander, finely chopped
First, make the chutney. Place the mango chutney in a bowl, add the hot pepper sauce and stir to combine. Add the spring onions and fresh herbs and mix together. Set aside.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan with vegetable oil to a depth of 2½cm and set over a medium–high heat.
While the oil is heating, in a pestle and mortar, lightly bash the sliced onions and red pepper for 4–5 minutes, so that they release their juices, then tip into a large bowl and add the okra. Sprinkle over the gram flour so that the vegetables are lightly coated, then add the baking powder, chilli flakes, ground cumin, allspice and salt and pepper. Using your hands, massage the ingredients together so that the flour and spices combine with the juices from the vegetables. Add a splash of water, if needed, but make sure that the coating isn’t too wet.
Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. When ready, pinch small handfuls of the bhaji mixture, form loosely into spikey balls and use a slotted spoon to carefully lower them into the hot oil. Cook for 3–4 minutes, turning once or twice until crisp and golden in colour. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper.
Serve with the Hot Sauce Mango Chutney.
TIP: When de-seeding the okra, use a teaspoon to easily scrape out the seeds.
ONION OKRA BHAJI WITH HOT SAUCE MANGO CHUTNEY
ITAL
The Ital diet (sometimes spelled I-tal) has been followed in Jamaica and other parts of the Caribbean since the beginning of the Rastafarian religion in the 1920s and ’30s. The word is derived from the word ‘vital’ (in Rastafarian culture, removing the initial letter of a word and/or replacing it with an “I” signifies unity with nature). Leonard Howell, one of the founders of the Rasta movement, was influenced by the indentured Indians and their meat-free diet and those that now follow the Ital diet eat only plant-based and unprocessed foods; some follow a strict vegan diet.
It’s a natural way of cooking that tries to avoid additives, oil, salt (although kosher salt is sometimes used) and sugar, and the diet is said to improve health and energy. Running through the Ital philosophy is the Rastafarian concept of livity – that the life-force of Jah/God or life energy exists in all living things. Therefore, food should be as natural and pure as possible.
Traditionally, Ital food was one-pot cooking – stews of fruit or vegetables and rice, seasoned with spring onions, garlic, thyme, Scotch bonnet, allspice, nutmeg and limes – but the cuisine is now more varied as veganism and vegetarianism are becoming more popular and the stereotypes are being broken down. The food is vibrant, with delicious uses of herbs and spices with fresh produce. Caribbean spices and herbs work well with vegetables and there is an abundance of both on the islands. There are also plenty of beautiful tropical fruits to make great smoothies and healthy juices.
The Ital diet is all about nurturing life from the soil and growing and preparing your own food to live a better life in tune with nature – it has a philosophical and spiritual purpose. I found this when I visited Lisa and Chris at their organic sustainable farm in Jamaica, Stush in the Bush. They have a real love of the land and what it provides. They make incredible gourmet food using what they have around them – modern Jamaican cooking from the heart. They call it ‘sexy vegetarianism’ and, with dishes such as their golden coconut-crusted yam and pineapple croquettes, or ackee ravioli, it’s easy to see why.
SPICED CORN, LENTIL & BUTTERNUT SQUASH CHOWDER
This chowder is full of the flavours of the Caribbean – the warmth from the blend of spices is delightful with the sweetness of the corn and squash.
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6 AS A STARTER
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large white onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, grated or finely chopped
½ tsp cayenne pepper
200g yellow split lentils
200g butternut squash, roughly diced into 2cm chunks
700ml vegetable stock
1 x 400ml tin coconut milk
1 Scotch bonnet chilli, halved
2 thyme sprigs
1 x 200g tin sweetcorn, drained
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
2 tsp red chilli oil, to garnish
a small handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped, to garnish
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion and garlic and sweat for 7–8 minutes, until softened but not coloured. Add the cayenne pepper and cook for 1 minute, then add the split lentils, squash, stock, milk, chilli and thyme. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 20–25 minutes, until the squash is tender and the lentils are soft, but not mushy. Add the sweetcorn, season with salt and pepper and bring the soup back to a simmer.
To serve, spoon into warm bowls and drizzle over a little chilli oil and a sprinkling of parsley.
SPICED CORN, LENTIL & BUTTERNUT SQUASH CHOWDER
TOSTONES WITH TOMATO & CAPER SALSA
Plantains are a starchy, unsweet type of banana and they must be cooked before eating. Tostones are twice-fried plantains and a popular snack or side dish throughout the Caribbean – especially in Dominica, where many people prefer them to chips. Once you taste these crispy Tostones with my easy-to-make, zingy salsa, it’s easy to see why!
SERVES 2–4 AS A SNACK
vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 green plantains, peeled and cut into 2½-cm thick slices
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Tomato and Caper Salsa
2–3 ripe tomatoes, quartered, de-seeded and diced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tbsp capers, finely chopped
a small handful of flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
juice of ½ lemon
1 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the salsa, combine the diced tomato, garlic, capers, parsley and lemon juice in a bowl and stir together. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle over the olive oil.
Fill a large deep heavy-based saucepan with vegetable oil to a depth of 2½cm and set over a medium–high heat. Test the oil is hot enough for deep-frying by dropping in a small piece of bread: it should sizzle and brown in 40–50 seconds. Add the plantains and fry for about 3 minutes until lightly golden. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper.
Spread the fried plantains over a flat surface and use the bottom of a small pan to flatten them to about 5mm thick. Return the plantains to the hot oil and fry until golden on both sides. Remove to drain well once again on kitchen paper.
Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with the salsa.
