Sooner or later, every sewist encounters a project that requires a zipper. Rather than running the other direction, pick up basic pointers that will make installing a zipper painless and satisfying.
Zippers are available in an amazing array of colors, lengths and materials. Learn the standard parts of any zipper:
A zipper foot is short and narrow, with two grooves that allow the needle to stitch close to the teeth. Refer to the machine manual for instructions on installing and using the foot. Specialty feet designed specifically for installing invisible zippers are also available, yet not required. These feet usually have a groove on the underside that forces the zipper teeth away from the tape during stitching. Check with your dealer to find an invisible zipper foot that’s compatible with your machine.
Use this handy chart to determine the appropriate zipper to use for your project.
| ZIPPER | USES |
|---|---|
| Extra-long metal | Slipcovers and other large home-dec items |
| Fashion (Specialty) | Handbags, crafts and decorative applications |
| Metal Jeans | Jeans, casual skirts and work pants; designed especially for fly-front applications |
| Metal Separating | Jackets, sportswear and home décor. Available with a reversible slider |
| Plastic Sport | Outdoor clothing, crafts and accesories |
| Polyester All-Purpose | All fabric weights; skirt pants, dresses and home décor |
| Polyester Invisible | Skirts, pants, dresses, and home-décor projects that require the zipper to be hidden |
| Polyester Separating | Knit sweaters, kids’ clothing and light- to mediumweight jackets |
| Purse | Handbags, wallets and other accesories |
| Reversible | Reversible coats and jackets |
| Robe | Bathrobes (available in 30" [78.7cm] - and 36" [91.4cm] lengths) |
| Sleeping Bag | Replacing a sleeping bag zipper |
Refer to the pattern envelope or project supply list to select the appropriate zipper type and length.
Remove the zipper from the package and press the tape to remove any folds.
Prewash and dry the fabric to eliminate shrinkage. Most patterns are marked to indicate the lower zipper-stop placement. Transfer the mark to the fabric using a removable fabric marker.
Install the zipper according to the selected application. Read on to learn three of the most common zipper applications.
It’s easy to shorten a zipper to any length. Close the zipper, and then whipstitch several times tightly across the coil at the desired length, using a double thread strand. Trim away the excess zipper below the stitching.
Save time by using 1⁄2" (1.3cm)-wide clear tape as a topstitching guide when installing a centered zipper. Center the tape over the seam, and then stitch just beyond the tape edges.
Use an all-purpose zipper to create a centered closure on a garment, purse or pillow. The zipper coil is concealed by the seam allowance, and one topstitching row is visible on either side of the seam. Centered zippers are ideal for casual clothes and work well with fabric that’s heavyweight or has a thick pile, such as terry cloth.
Stitch the seam, ending at the lower zipper-stop mark, backstitch. Machine-baste the seam above the mark. Press open the entire seam.
With the fabric wrong side up, position the closed zipper right side down over the seam allowances. Center the zipper teeth over the basting, with the lower stop just below the basting end. Pin the zipper tape in place only through the seam allowances.
Using a zipper foot, baste the zipper tape to the seam allowances only (Figure 1).
Figure 1
Use a removable fabric marker to draw a line 3⁄8" (1cm) from either side of the basting. Connect the lines at the basting lower edge (Figure 2).
Figure 2
Set the machine to a slightly longer stitch length, between 3mm and 3.5mm. For best results, topstitch each zipper tape in place in the same direction. From the fabric right side, begin stitching over the marked line at the basting lower edge. Don’t backstitch; instead, leave a long thread tail at the stitching beginning. Pivot 90°, and then stitch along the line to the fabric upper edge. Repeat to topstitch the remaining zipper tape (Figure 3).
Figure 3
Use a hand sewing needle to pull the thread tails to the wrong side and tie off. Remove the basting stitches; press with a cool iron.
An invisible zipper application hides the zipper in the seam, producing a polished, uninterrupted look. Unlike a centered zipper, an invisible zipper is inserted into an open seam.
Open the zipper and press it from the wrong side so the teeth stand away from the tape.
Place the zipper right side down on the fabric right side, aligning the lower stop with the zipper-opening lower edge. Position the teeth along the seamline and the zipper tape over the seam allowance. Pin or baste the zipper tape in place (Figure 4).
Figure 4
Install the standard zipper foot or invisible zipper foot. Lower the needle next to the zipper coil upper edge. Separate the teeth from the tape, using a seam ripper or large needle; lower the presser foot. Beginning at the zipper upper edge, stitch next to the teeth but not over them. End the stitching when the foot reaches the zipper slider.
Repeat to attach the remaining zipper tape to the remaining fabric piece right side. Close the zipper.
Install the standard foot. Beginning below the zipper stitching, align the garment with right sides together along the seamline; pin. Lower the needle exactly where the zipper stitching ends; lower the presser foot. Without backstitching, stitch the seam while pulling the zipper away from the seam (Figure 5). Pull the thread ends through to one side; tie off.
Figure 5
Use a separating zipper when a garment or item opening needs to separate entirely, such as a jacket or vest. In this application, the zipper teeth are visible.
Fold the seam allowances toward the wrong side; press. With the right sides facing up, position the fold over the zipper tape, 1⁄8" (3mm) from the zipper teeth; pin (Figure 6). Curve the zipper tape upper edge out of the way.
Figure 6
Install the zipper foot. Beginning at the fabric upper edge, topstitch close to the fold.
Install the standard foot. Stitch 1⁄4" (6mm) from the previous stitching line to secure the seam allowance (Figure 7). Separate the zipper.
Figure 7
Add stability to lightweight or slippery fabrics before installing a zipper. Cut two lightweight fusible interfacing strips 1" (2.5cm) × the zipper opening length, and then fuse the strips to the zipper-opening seam allowances.