Marking fabric before stitching may seem time-consuming, but it actually saves time in the long run by preventing mistakes due to improper placement. Learn a variety of ways to mark fabric to find a method that works for you and to ensure accurate results no matter what type of fabric you’re working with.
Choose a marking method depending on the chosen fabric type. For example, don’t use a water-soluble fabric marker on fabrics that can’t be washed, such as silk or wool. Don’t pin-mark laminated fabric or leather because pins leave permanent holes in the fabric. Test the chosen marking method on scrap project fabric.
Mark fabric pieces after cutting. Mark pattern details on the fabric wrong side except for surface placement markings, such as pockets and tabs. Mark both fabric layers except if the marking is for a single-layer detail, such as a single pocket on a shirt. For buttonholes, mark one fabric side for the buttonhole placement and the adjacent side for the button placement.
Use tailor’s chalk to transfer smaller pattern markings, such as dots and squares. The chalk is available in a variety of colors, doesn’t leave any residue and either has a waxy or chalky consistency. Use the chalk type on flat surfaces and the wax type on textured fabric, such as tweed. Chalk is easy to remove, which may be problematic for projects that are heavily handled during construction.
Choose a chalk color that contrasts with the fabric color. To mark dots and squares, place a pin into the mark, and then apply chalk along the pin mark (Figure 1). Use a small paintbrush or rub the fabric together to remove chalk marks.
Figure 1
To quickly and easily mark notches, use a small pair of scissors made for detail work, such as embroidery scissors.
For patterns with a 5⁄8" (1.6cm) seam allowance, snip 1⁄8" (3mm) to 1⁄4" (6mm) into the fabric directly through the notch point. Don’t cut into the stitching line. For single notches, make one snip. For double notches, make two snips (Figure 2).
Figure 2
Check the pattern seam allowance. If the seam allowance is 1⁄4" (6mm), use an alternative marking method to mark notches, such as using a removable fabric marker or chalk.
Use a water- or air-soluble fabric marking pen to easily transfer smaller marks, such as dots or squares. The pens have pointed tips that allow for accurate marking.
Air-soluble fabric markers disappear after time. If using a water-soluble fabric marker, remove the marks using water. Don’t use water-soluble pens on fabrics that can’t be washed. Some pens are permanent when heat is applied, such as when pressing. Always read the package information to ensure the marks are temporary.
Use a fabric marking pen in conjunction with clipping and notching. For example, clip into the dart legs, but mark the dart point using a pen (Figure 3).
Figure 3
Use straight pins for markings that will be immediately stitched or basted. Pins often easily slip out of fabric when handling, so don’t use them as a long-term marking method. Don’t use pins on laminated fabric or leather because they leave permanent holes; if necessary, pin within seam allowances.
Use pins to mark an opening or buttonhole end, collar placement, zipper lower stop or the stitching beginning and end. To mark corners, place pins perpendicular to one another (Figure 4).
Figure 4
Use a sliver of bar soap for an easy and inexpensive marking method. To make marks, run the soap edge along the fabric. Periodically trim the soap edges with a knife so they remain sharp. Soap marks are removed using water, so don’t use soap on fabrics that can’t be washed.
Use stickers to mark the fabric right and wrong sides or buttons or pocket placements. Stickers may leave residue, so use them when a pen, chalk or pins may damage the fabric.
Use silk thread in a contrasting color when basting, as it glides easily through most fabrics and doesn’t leave a mark when pressed. Use basting stitches to mark centerlines, hemlines, pocket or tab placement and topstitching guides. Baste in lieu of using chalk or pens when working with delicate fabric that easily stains or can’t be laundered or dry-cleaned.
Use tailor’s tacks to mark accurate and easily removable marks through two fabric layers. Thread a hand sewing needle with a double strand of contrasting silk thread. Don’t knot the thread end.
Take a 1⁄8" (6mm)-long basting stitch at the mark, leaving a 2" (5.1cm)-long thread tail. Take another stitch in the previous holes, leaving a large thread loop and being careful to not catch the thread in the first stitch. Trim the thread. Slightly separate the fabric layers and clip through the tacks (Figure 5). Completely separate the fabric layers to reveal the thread marks in both fabric pieces (Figure 6).
Figure 5
Figure 6
Use a tracing wheel and paper to transfer lines, dots and squares. Tracing paper has a colored surface that transfers to the fabric when it’s rolled over by a tracing wheel. The paper is available in a variety of colors and is either water-soluble or waxed. Remove water-soluble marks using a damp cloth.
Water-soluble tracing paper is preferred over waxed, as wax marks are difficult to remove. If using waxed paper, choose the lightest color that’s still visible on the fabric in case the marks don’t disappear. Serrated and sawtooth wheels are available, but use a smooth wheel if working with delicate fabric.
Place a piece of cardboard on a flat work surface or use a self-healing cutting mat. Before marking the project fabric, practice tracing lines on scrap fabric to get a feel for how much pressure to apply. Mark both fabric pieces simultaneously by placing a folded piece of tracing paper between the layers. Mark heavyweight fabric pieces individually.
Place the tracing paper colored side down over the project wrong side beneath the pattern tissue. Using slight pressure and a ruler as a guide, trace the lines using the tracing wheel (Figure 7). Repeat to trace the remaining lines, moving the tracing paper as necessary. To mark dots or squares, make an “x” using the wheel.
Figure 7
Don’t mark the fabric right side using a tracing wheel and paper. To mark buttonholes or pocket placements, transfer the marks to the fabric wrong side, and then baste through each mark using silk thread so it’s visible on the fabric right side.