Soup for Two

This beautiful and healthy fruit soup is quick and easy to make and full of flavor. Along with ripe berries, it’s sweetened with minced, candied ginger, vanilla yogurt, and fresh orange juice. Serve a cup and a half of the soup for a light, warm-weather entrée or a cup as an appetizer or dessert. You can substitute other juices or even coconut milk for part of the liquid.

1 pound strawberries, hulled, 1 small berry reserved for garnish

1 cup low-fat vanilla yogurt, plus ¼ cup for garnish

¼ cup orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed

2 tablespoons minced candied ginger (about 1 ounce)

3 tablespoons chopped mint leaves, plus 4 small leaves for garnish

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the strawberries, 1 cup yogurt, orange juice, and ginger and purée until completely smooth. Chill for at least 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the remaining yogurt with the chopped mint leaves and, using a muddler or the back of a spoon, crush the leaves to release their flavor; set aside.

Ladle the soup into chilled bowls. Strain the minted yogurt into a small cup. Spoon a generous dollop of the strained yogurt in the center of each bowl of soup. Slice the reserved berry lengthwise. Place a few slices on the yogurt, add two small mint leaves, and serve.

BLUEBERRY-POMEGRANATE BEET BORSCHT

Blueberries and pomegranates are excellent antioxidants. Add to them the anti-aging, cancer-preventing, cardiovascular-invigorating benefits of beets (not to mention their reputation as an aphrodisiac), and this innovative cold borscht might well become a new favorite. It was inspired by a conversation with cookbook author and friend Linda Dannenberg. The flavor is very intense. Serve it as an appetizer or chilled summer soup. Garnished with scallions, a dollop of sour cream, and fresh pomegranate seeds. It’s beautiful, as well.

2¾ cups natural blueberry-pomegranate juice

1–2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, available at Middle Eastern stores and many markets

½ cup cubed pickled beets

1–2 tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon fresh pomegranate seeds, for garnish

1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion, for garnish

In a large bowl, stir the blueberry-pomegranate juice and 1 tablespoon of the pomegranate molasses together until blended. Stir in the beets, taste, and add more pomegranate molasses, if desired. Chill well. Ladle into two bowls and serve with a dollop of sour cream, the pomegranate seeds, and sliced scallions.

PEACH SOUP WITH SUGAR-GLAZED BLACKBERRIES

When the dog days of summer have you avoiding the kitchen, yet looking for a refreshing dessert of seasonal fruit, this subtle, spicy chilled soup will please you and your guests. It’s dressed up with sugar-glazed fresh blackberries (made the night before) that add a crunchy, special accent. Don’t use nonfat yogurt, because the soup will taste too thin.

½ cup granulated sugar

8–10 fresh, unblemished blackberries

1 egg white

2 peaches, peeled and finely chopped or 1 pound unsweetened frozen peaches, defrosted (2 cups)

1 cup natural apple cider

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

¼ teaspoon ground star anise

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

6 ounces low-fat vanilla yogurt

Mint leaves for garnish

Make the sugar-glazed blackberries at least 8 hours ahead of time. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Pour the sugar into a flat dish. Using a small paintbrush, lightly coat each berry with egg white, carefully roll it in the sugar, and place on the parchment. Let them dry for at least 6 hours in a cool, dry place. Once dried, the coated berries keep for many hours.

For the soup: In the jar of an electric blender, combine the peaches, cider, honey, lime juice, star anise, and cinnamon and purée until smooth. Pour into a bowl, blend in the yogurt, cover, and chill for at least 2 hours. Ladle the soup into bowls, add the blackberries, and garnish with a few mint leaves.

PINEAPPLE SOUP WITH BLUEBERRIES AND TOASTED COCONUT

With a fresh pineapple on my counter and an opened can of coconut milk and fresh ginger root in the refrigerator, necessity sparked my creative instincts. This easy-to-make dessert was the delicious result. You can buy cut-up pineapple or, in a pinch, use canned fruit packed in its own juice. Coconut ice cream, fresh blueberries, and toasted coconut flakes added before serving make this soup a special treat. It tastes like a piña colada.

3 cups cut-up fresh pineapple (about 12 ounces)

¾ cup canned coconut milk, not “lite” variety

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

2–3 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon Jamaican rum

½ cup fresh blueberries

Coconut ice cream

2 tablespoons toasted coconut flakes for garnish

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the pineapple, coconut milk, ginger, 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar, and the rum; purée until completely smooth. Taste and add more sugar if desired. Ladle into bowls, add the blueberries and a small scoop of ice cream. Sprinkle on the coconut and serve.

To Cut a Pineapple:

Using a serrated knife, cut off the leafy crown of the pineapple and about an inch from the bottom. Place the pineapple on a solid cutting board and slice off the skin in strips. With the tip of a potato peeler or paring knife, remove the brown eyes. Cut the pineapple in quarters lengthwise and cut off the woody center core.

MORELLO CHERRY SOUP WITH CANDIED GINGER AND FENNEL

Combining preserved cherries and fennel sounds unusual, but I think you’ll find this a delicious dessert. Years ago, I wrote about Thaddeus DuBois, who was, for a while, a White House chef. The memory of his candied fennel ice cream stuck with me. When I was given a 21-ounce jar of Fabbri Morello cherries in kirsch syrup, I decided to marry the flavors. Fennel is very popular in Italy, where Morello cherries are grown. The cherries are available here in gourmet stores or via the Internet.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1¼ cups finely chopped fennel (about ½ medium fennel bulb), some fronds reserved for garnish

½ cup finely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons minced candied ginger

2 teaspoons ground star anise or fennel

Generous pinch kosher salt

1¼ cups drained, pitted Morello cherries in kirsch syrup, plus 10 cherries reserved for garnish

1½ cups buttermilk

½ cup heavy cream

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Stir in the fennel, shallots, ginger, star anise or fennel seeds, and salt. Cover and sweat over low heat until the fresh fennel is very soft, 10–12 minutes, stirring occasionally,

Add the cherries and buttermilk and heat gently, stirring up all cooked bits. Do not let it boil. Scrape the mixture into the jar of an electric blender and purée until completely smooth. Pour the soup into a bowl, stir in the heavy cream, 1–2 teaspoons of the reserved cherry syrup, or to taste, and refrigerate until cold. Ladle the soup into bowls, add the reserved cherries and a few fennel fronds, and serve.

WATERMELON GAZPACHO SOUP

Chef Joy Strang’s gazpacho is an exciting, refreshing summer soup. With the convenience of peeled and diced watermelon available in many markets, this beautiful chilled soup takes minutes to make. The rewards are great. You can garnish it simply with crumbled feta cheese, or for a singular treat add fresh crabmeat.

3 cups diced seedless or seeded watermelon

10 mint leaves, coarsely chopped

1 medium clove garlic

½ jalapeño pepper, seeded if desired, and chopped

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon smoked paprika, plus a little more for garnish

½ teaspoon ground allspice

Salt

4 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat (optional)

2 scallions, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced for garnish

Crumbled feta for garnish

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the watermelon, mint leaves, garlic, jalapeño, lime juice, vinegar, paprika, and allspice. Blend on medium until completely smooth. Season to taste with salt and pulse briefly. Scrape the gazpacho into a bowl, cover, and chill for at least 3 hours before serving.

If adding crab, divide it between two bowls and pour in the gazpacho. Garnish with scallions, feta, and a light sprinkle of paprika and serve.

CHILLED FIRE-ROASTED TOMATO BISQUE

Thanks to readily available, intensely flavorful fire-roasted canned tomatoes, Pam Harding’s refreshing cold soup is an easy answer to the question of what to serve on a hot summer’s evening. Keep a supply of these tomatoes in your cupboard for many different soups. Canned chipotles en adobo are smoked jalapeños packed in adobo sauce (see the sidebar). Because chipotles are spicy, add only half the amount at first.

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

1 small carrot, finely chopped (¼ cup)

½ medium celery rib, chopped (¼ cup)

1 very small onion or half medium onion, finely chopped (¼ cup)

1 large clove garlic, minced

1½ cups chicken stock

1 cup canned fire-roasted petite diced tomatoes

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 small chipotle chile en adobo, minced (1 teaspoon)

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

½–1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

⅓ cup 2 percent buttermilk

2 tablespoons torn cilantro leaves

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, and onion and sauté until wilted, 4–5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Add the stock, tomatoes, tomato paste, chipotle, cumin, and oregano and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, 15–20 minutes. If the soup tastes too sharp, stir in ½–1 teaspoon sugar, and refrigerate for at least an hour. Before serving, stir in the buttermilk and sprinkle on the cilantro.

Adobo Sauce

In Mexican cooking, this tangy combination of chiles, garlic, and vinegar along with tomatoes and spices is widely used as a marinade or sauce to season meat or poultry dishes. It first arrived in the New World with the Spaniards.

CHILLED SUMMER TOMATO SOUP WITH PESTO

This smooth red purée celebrates the peak of the summer tomato-growing season. The cool but not cold soup is topped with basil pesto or pistou (here). Here is the place to use very juicy heirloom or seasonal beefsteak tomatoes found at local farmers’ markets.

1 tablespoon fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium-small onion, thinly sliced (½ cup)

1 small carrot, diced (¼ cup)

½ medium celery rib, diced (¼ cup)

White part of 1 medium leek, well rinsed, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced (¼ cup)

½ small red bell pepper, diced (¼ cup)

2 large cloves garlic, sliced

4–5 large fresh basil leaves

1 sprig flat-leaf parsley

1 small sprig rosemary

1 small sprig thyme

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 pound firm, ripe heirloom or beefsteak tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped

1½ cups water

Salt and white pepper

2 tablespoons Brice’s Homemade Basil Pesto (recipe follows) or a high quality purchased product

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Stir in the onion, carrot, celery, leek, bell pepper, and garlic cloves. Cover and sweat over low heat until the vegetables are tender but not brown, about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, wrap the basil, parsley, rosemary, thyme, and fennel seeds in two layers of cheesecloth; tie securely. Add the tomatoes, water, and herbs to the pan, cover, and gently boil until the tomatoes are soft, 12-15 minutes. Remove the herbs, squeezing any liquid into the pan.

Fill a large bowl with ice. Transfer the tomato-vegetable mixture to a bowl and set it over the ice to cool, about 20 minutes, to keep the color bright. Scrape the mixture into the jar of an electric blender and purée until completely smooth. Pour through a strainer, pressing firmly with a silicon spatula to extract as much liquid as possible. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and refrigerate until cool. Ladle into bowls, add basil pesto, and serve.

Bruce’s Homemade Basil Pesto

Yield: about 1 cup

My friend Bruce Robertson seems to have a never-ending source of wonderfully fragrant basil pesto. Of course, he also has a variety of local farm stands near his house on the North Fork of Long Island. He suggests using whichever variety of basil you have: Italian, bush, or lemon—or a mix. He also says you can add a couple of tablespoons of flat-leaf parsley leaves. Extra basil will last in your refrigerator for several weeks. You can make a smoother pesto by combining the ingredients in an electric blender, scraping down the sides often, before adding the oil.

2 cloves garlic

2 cups basil leaves (see the headnote)

⅓ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

⅓ cup grated Pecorino-Romano

¼ cup pine nuts

⅛ teaspoon freshly grated black pepper

2 tablespoons fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely chopped. Add a handful of the basil along with the cheeses, pine nuts, and pepper; pulse until finely chopped. Add the remaining basil, a little at a time, pulsing after each addition until finely chopped. Finally, with the motor running, add the oil and blend into a smooth consistency. Scrape into a container, cover tightly, and refrigerate if not using right away.

PURÉED AVOCADO SOUP WITH GUACAMOLE TOPPINGS

If you love guacamole, try adding stock and a little sour cream to transform the same ingredients into a lovely, cooling summer soup. To turn it into a main course, add grilled chicken or shrimp on top. For a smokier flavor, use mezcal rather than tequila.

1 small onion

1 ripe avocado, preferably Hass variety, peeled and pitted (about ½ pound)

1 small clove garlic

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1½ teaspoons hot or mild chile powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

¾–1 cup vegetable stock

2 tablespoons sour cream, plus additional sour cream for garnish

1 tablespoon tequila or mezcal (optional)

½ plum tomato, seeded and finely chopped (3 tablespoons)

1 jalapeño pepper, minced, seeded if desired (2 tablespoons)

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves, plus a few leaves for garnish

Tortilla chips for garnish (optional)

Dice about ¾ of the onion. In a food processor or the jar of an electric blender, combine the avocado, the diced onion, garlic, lime juice, chile powder, cumin, salt, black pepper to taste, and about ¾ cup of stock; purée until smooth. Add the sour cream and tequila or mezcal and blend, adding the remaining stock if the soup is too thick. Scrape into a bowl and chill.

Before serving, finely chop the remaining ¼ onion by hand. Blend it with the tomato, jalapeño, and cilantro leaves and stir into the soup. Taste to adjust the seasonings. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with a dollop of sour cream, a few cilantro leaves, and serve with tortilla chips, if desired.

The Avocado Fruit

Many people think avocados are vegetables, butwith a large pit inside, they’re actually fruits. I grew up in Los Angeles with an avocado tree in our backyard and still think the locally grown Hass avocados are the best. Many chefs agree. They have a creamier, denser texture than other varieties.

ROASTED BEET SOUP WITH DUKKAH, YOGURT, AND BLACK CURRANT

While in Bath, England, my daughter Nicole, son Ben, and I celebrated my birthday at a renowned vegetarian restaurant founded by chef Rachel DeMuth. It’s now owned by her chef and renamed Acorn. Ben’s earthy, roasted beet salad with cassis sorbet was seasoned with dukkah, an Egyptian seasoning made of toasted nuts, sesame seeds, coriander, and cumin. It inspired this soup. Instead of the sorbet, I boiled currant jelly with balsamic vinegar to make a gastrique-like drizzle (typically made with reduced vinegar and caramelized sugar).

1 tablespoon dukkah (recipe follows)

3 medium beets, scrubbed and trimmed

2 tablespoons fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 small onion, chopped (⅓ cup)

2–2½ cups vegetable stock

2 tablespoons orange juice

1 small shallot, sliced

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons black or red currant jelly

2 tablespoons water

2–3 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Prepare the dukkah and set aside.

On a large square of aluminum foil, brush the beets with a little olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and tightly wrap to seal. Place on a baking sheet or in a flat pan and roast until completely tender when pricked with the tip of a knife, at least 50–60 minutes. Remove, cool, peel, and roughly chop. You should have just under 2 cups.

In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over low heat, add the onion, partially cover, and sweat until softened and just starting to color, about 5 minutes. Scrape into the jar of an electric blender along with the puréed beets, stock, and ½ tablespoon of the olive oil; purée until smooth. Transfer to a medium-size saucepan, add the orange juice; heat until hot.

Meanwhile, make the gastrique. In the same skillet, add the remaining oil and shallot and sauté over low heat until softened and lightly colored. Combine the shallot with the 3 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar, the currant jelly, and water in a 2-cup glass measure and microwave on high until the mixture has reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Remove and strain.

To serve, ladle the soup into bowls, add a dollop of yogurt, sprinkle the dukkah around it, and drizzle on the currant gastrique.

Dukkah

Dukkah can be made with pistachios, hazelnuts, and even almonds. Use the freshest spices available and store extras in a small, airtight container. If your nuts are unsalted, add a pinch of salt to the mixture.

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper or crushed black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ cup chopped pistachios, lightly toasted (1½ ounces)

Salt, if nuts are unsalted

In a small skillet, toast the sesame seeds, black pepper, and fennel over medium-high heat until fragrant and the seeds are pale golden, 2–3 minutes, shaking the pan often. Sprinkle in the coriander and cumin, cook for 30 seconds, then quickly scrape into a small bowl along with the pistachios and salt and let cool. Using a mortar and pestle or a clean coffee grinder, grind the mixture into a coarse-textured powder.

Delights of Dukkah

My friends Sarah and Glenn Collins are world travelers, and we delight in sharing our culinary purchases with one another. After exploring Egypt’s Nile Valley some years ago, Sarah gave me a bag of dukkah, a term derived from a word that means “to crush.” In this case, it refers to seeds and nuts. I’ve used it as a topping for many soups, combined with olive oil as a dip for bread, and brushed it on fish and chicken. Thanks, Sarah!

CURRIED CUCUMBER AND SCALLION SOUP

Thai red curry paste combined with cucumber and scallions makes for a mildly spicy yet cooling partnership in this soup. It’s refreshing and easy. You can also use Malaysian or Indian curry paste, adjusting the amount according to taste.

1 English cucumber, ends trimmed

8 scallions, chopped, including most of the green parts (1½ cups)

¾ cup vegetable broth

½ cup sour cream, plus 2 teaspoons for garnish

2–3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon Thai red curry paste (see headnote here)

Salt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill leaves, plus 2 small sprigs for garnish

Cut off two thin slices of cucumber and reserve for the garnish. Peel and roughly chop the remaining cucumber and add it to the jar of an electric blender along with the scallions, broth, sour cream, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, lemon zest, curry paste, and salt to taste. Process until smooth.

Stir in the dill, cover, and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. Taste and add more lemon juice, if needed. Ladle the soup into two bowls. Add a small spoonful of sour cream, a slice of cucumber, and a sprig of dill to each and serve.

CAULIFLOWER-CASHEW SOUP WITH POMEGRANATE SEEDS

Cauliflower roasted with chopped onion, garlic, and curry powder and then puréed with softened raw cashews and coconut milk creates a creamy, rich soup without any dairy products. Many markets now sell peeled pomegranate seeds, making them an attractive and easy garnish for this pale golden soup. Use extras in the Blueberry-Pomegranate Beet Borscht (here), salads, and on sautéed vegetables. You can serve this soup chilled, at room temperature, or hot.

⅓ cup raw cashews

2 cups (about 7 ounces) small cauliflower florets

1 small onion, chopped (⅓ cup)

1 large clove garlic, chopped

Salt

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons ground curry powder, hot or mild, according to taste

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1½ cups vegetable stock

¾ cup canned coconut milk, not “lite” variety

1½ teaspoons honey

Pinch ground cayenne pepper (optional)

2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds (optional)

1 tablespoon torn cilantro leaves

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

In a small bowl, pour enough boiling water over the cashews to cover; set aside to soften, at least 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, stir together the cauliflower, onion, garlic, about ½ teaspoon salt, and the oil, turning to coat evenly. Scrape onto the baking sheet and roast in the center of the oven until the cauliflower is completely tender when the tip of a knife is inserted, 20–25 minutes, stirring once or twice. Carefully sprinkle on the curry powder and cumin, stir, and roast for 2 minutes longer.

Strain the cashews, rinse under cold water, and transfer them to the jar of an electric blender. Add the stock and purée on high until completely smooth.

Scrape the cauliflower mixture into the blender, add the coconut milk, honey, and cayenne if using, and purée until completely smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Taste to adjust the salt, if needed.

Scrape into a clean container, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes–1 hour. Ladle into bowls, sprinkle on the pomegranate seeds if using, add the cilantro, and serve.

ANDALUSIAN GARLIC-ALMOND SOUP

Ajo blanco, this classic cold white Spanish soup of puréed garlic, bread, and almonds with a dash of sherry vinegar, is a perfect antidote to sweltering summer days. My kids and I were introduced to it during a cooking class in Seville with Amelia Gómez.

Grapes are the traditional garnish to balance the garlic, but small cubes of watermelon or apple are also used today. The soup is said to have originated in the Roman colony of Hispalis (today’s Seville), where almond milk was consumed in large amounts. For another cold gazpacho, look at the one here made with watermelon.

2 cups stale or lightly toasted country bread, crusts removed, torn in pieces

1⅓ cups cold water, plus ½ cup additional water if needed

¾ cup blanched almonds

1½ –2 cloves garlic

⅓ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish

1½ teaspoons Spanish sherry vinegar, or to taste

Salt

About 10 red or green seedless grapes, cut in half, or small cubes of watermelon for garnish.

In a bowl, combine the bread with 1⅓ cups water and soak until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove the bread and squeeze gently, reserving the water. Combine the bread with the almonds and garlic in a food processor and pulse until chunky-smooth. Add the water and blend until smooth.

With the motor running, pour in the olive oil and blend. Add the vinegar and ½ teaspoon salt or to taste; process until the mixture is thin and smooth. Taste to adjust the flavors, adding up to ½ cup more water, as needed. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until cold. Ladle the soup into two bowls, add the grapes or watermelon, and serve.

Early Spanish Soup History

Ajo Blanco dates from long before gazpacho. It’s from the period when the Romans ruled the Iberian Peninsula before the Christian era and far before Columbus brought tomatoes back to Spain in the 16th century.

MINTED SPICED GREEN PEA SOUP WITH CRUNCHY CHICKPEAS

This refreshing light soup with its subtle taste of curry (more potent if you use hot curry powder and/or the cayenne) is nicely balanced by the final addition of mint leaves and crunchy chickpeas. Fair warning: The chickpeas are irresistible. Make the whole recipe, and any leftovers will be gone pronto.

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped (½ cup)

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons mild or hot curry powder, according to taste

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

1½ cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup frozen peas, defrosted

1 medium-small Yukon Gold or other waxy potato, diced (¾ cup)

¾ cup whole milk

Salt and finely ground black pepper

Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)

Crunchy Chickpeas (recipe follows)

1 tablespoon julienned mint leaves

In a medium-size saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until tender and lightly colored, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the curry powder and cardamom, cook for 1 minute, then stir in the stock.

Add the peas and potatoes and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and gently boil until the vegetables are tender, 10–15 minutes. Transfer the ingredients to the jar of an electric blender, add the milk, and purée until completely smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne if using. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or until cool.

Meanwhile, prepare the Crunchy Chickpeas, if serving. Ladle the soup into bowls, add the chickpeas, sprinkle on the mint leaves, and serve.

Crunchy Chickpeas

You can add a few of these to each bowl of soup. But don’t worry about having made too many—these make a wonderful snack anytime. Keep them stored in an airtight container.

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 large shallot, very thinly sliced

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1½ –2 cups canola or other vegetable oil for frying

1 cup canned chickpeas, rinsed and patted dry

½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small, dry skillet, toast the fennel seeds until golden brown, about 2 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally. Set aside.

Lightly toss the shallots with flour to cover. In a medium-size pot, heat the oil until it measures 350 degrees F, on an instant-read thermometer. Add the shallots and cook over medium-high heat until golden brown, 3–4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Return the oil to 350 degrees F. Add the chickpeas and cook until crispy and golden brown. Depending on how wide the pot is, it can take 5–12 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a metal or glass bowl. Add the Aleppo pepper and salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Toss well and serve.

GAZPACHO

Although chilled gazpacho is now a summer staple, food historians tell us tomatoes arrived in Spain only after Columbus brought the seeds back from the New World. They definitely weren’t an instant success and were even considered poisonous.

It’s worth peeling and finely dicing the tomatoes by hand for this soup, because the colors remain more vibrant and the texture is better. Unless you eat a lot of cucumbers, a small pickling cucumber is all you’ll need here. Another refreshing gazpacho, made with watermelon, is here.

3 plum tomatoes (about 12 ounces), cored, with a small “X” cut in the bottom

¾–1 cup tomato juice

½ cup peeled, seeded, and finely diced cucumber (see the headnote)

1 small red onion, finely diced (⅓ cup)

1 small yellow, orange, or red bell pepper, finely diced (⅓ cup)

1 clove garlic, minced

½ small jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons fragrant extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves

Fill a bowl with ice water. Bring a small pot of water to a boil, drop in the tomatoes, and boil for 20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to the ice water, cool for about 1 minute, then peel, cut in half crosswise, and using a spoon, scoop out the seeds.

Cut the tomato into small cubes and put into a bowl. Stir in ¾ cup of the tomato juice. Add the cucumber, onion, bell pepper, garlic, jalapeño, olive oil, lime juice, and Worcestershire sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add the remaining tomato juice, if needed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1–2 hours to let the flavors develop. Ladle into chilled bowls, add the cilantro, and serve.

CUCUMBER-WATERCRESS SOUP WITH DICED TOMATOES

Here’s another appealing summer offering. This intensely vibrant, green chilled soup flecked with diced tomato takes minimal work. It was inspired by a recipe from famed cookbook author Carole Walter. The small amount of sour cream at the end definitely rounds out all of the flavors.

1½ cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced (3 cups)

2 cups packed watercress sprigs with coarse stems trimmed

¾ cup plain low-fat yogurt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little to drizzle before serving

1½ tablespoons sour cream (optional)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1½ plum tomatoes, finely chopped (½ cup)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In the jar of an electric blender, combine the cucumbers, watercress, and yogurt, and purée until smooth. Do this in batches if necessary.

Pour the soup into a bowl, stir in the olive oil, sour cream, if using, and lime juice. Stir in the tomatoes, basil, chives, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and chill for at least 1 hour. Ladle into bowls, drizzle on a little olive oil, and serve.