People today don’t have the skills to do repairs, but it’s not rocket science. I enjoy a better quality of life because I repair.
— Jim Rouleau, Repair Cafe, Bolton, Massachusetts
Elizabeth recalls: I vividly remember the Christmas when I was five years old. My dad, a U.S. Air Force officer, had recently moved our family from Florida to Colorado. I’d never seen snow before, and I couldn’t wait to see all the new toys that I’d told Santa I wanted when I’d sat on his lap at the on-base “exchange” store. I raced down the stairs to the living room in my mom-made pajamas — repurposed from a mom-made Halloween costume — and spotted a blonde Bonnie Braids doll dressed in a white, lacy, crocheted skating outfit topped off with a ski cap. She was perched on a little, crayon-yellow, wooden bed fitted with red-and-white-striped sheets and a matching pillow. Also tucked under the decorated tree’s branches was a panda bear sporting a red plaid vest and matching bow tie. I was thrilled! But then, just as suddenly, I remembered that the doll, bear, and bed were not new. My dad had made the doll bed using wood salvaged from an old ammunition box a couple of summers ago. And I’d recently spied my mother crocheting something white and lacy while watching TV. And hadn’t she just sewn herself a red plaid skirt? Didn’t she always save fabric scraps to patch or decorate clothes? At the time, I was shocked and disappointed, as only a kid could be, but now I applaud my parents’ thrift and creativity.
Some people are lucky enough to live in families where repair is a way of life. As Jennifer Ferris, co-organizer of the Repair Cafe in Saratoga Springs, New York, says of her childhood, “Tools were a part of the daily routine. Fixing this, improving that, composting and only buying what you need.” Today, many people who can afford to throw out their broken or torn things and buy new ones prefer to repair them — because it’s sensible and satisfying. And it can be fun.
If you didn’t have the opportunity to learn repair skills at home or on the job, or if you would like to improve your technique, here is some practical, hands-on, how-to advice from repair coaches, in their own words, about how to fix some of the items most often brought to their tables at repair events. There is no one right way to repair anything, but these tips and tricks should help you get started on your own adventures in repair. Power to the people! You might start by learning how to use a multimeter — it measures volts, amps (current), and ohms (resistance) in a circuit — to help you troubleshoot problems with lamps and other small appliances that need electricity to operate.
How to Use a Multimeter to Diagnose Electrical Appliances
By Ken Winterling, volunteer at Repair Cafes in Mamakating, Middletown, Montgomery, Newburgh, Pine Bush, and Warwick, New York
Ken has been repairing all sorts of things since he was a child. His dad repaired things for family, friends, and neighbors, and he taught Ken how things work, how to use tools, and how very satisfying it is to fix something rather than toss it. Ken only recently learned about Repair Cafes. “It seemed like a perfect fit,” he says. “I volunteer to repair items for people I don’t know for the same reason I helped people I didn’t know when I was a volunteer EMT. It’s a great way to use my skills and talents. It’s fun to meet and help your neighbors and create a positive impact on the environment, all at the same time.” Many of his small appliance repairs start by instructing visitors seated at his table how and why to use a multimeter.
The multimeter, one of the best tools for electrical troubleshooting, measures volts, amps (current), and ohms (resistance) in a circuit. When repairing appliances you will mostly be measuring volts and resistance, so this guide concentrates on those measurements. This basic instruction on how to use a multimeter also explains what all those confusing meter symbols mean. It is not comprehensive.
There are two basic types of multimeter, the VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) and the DMM (digital multimeter). The VOM type is older and uses an analog moving needle gauge to display measurements. The newer device, the DMM, uses a digital display to show what is happening in the circuit. Either will work for testing appliances, but the DMM’s digital display is easier to read for most people.
To measure volts, amps, or ohms, you need to set the meter to the proper type of measurement and the correct range within that type. For example, to test if power is reaching the socket on a table lamp, you would need to set the meter to AC (alternating current) and the range to a voltage higher than 120, the U.S. household voltage.
Meters come in two selector types: manual ranging and autoranging. Almost all VOMs are manual ranging, while DMMs come in both manual and autoranging. With a manual ranging meter, you must use a dial to select the type of measurement, such as AC, then the range, such as 200, being careful to pick a range that is higher than the expected measurement. Selecting a lower value or incorrect measurement type could destroy the meter. Autoranging meters are easier to use because they only require the operator to set the measurement type, such as AC.
When using a meter for repairs, you must know the type of voltage — AC or DC (direct current) — and the approximate amplitude of that voltage so you can set the meter properly. For example, in the table lamp example above, we expected 120VAC (volts AC) because it was plugged into a wall socket. If you were repairing a toy, you would check what type of battery it used. If, for example, it had three AA cells, you would know that the toy ran on 4.5VDC (volts DC), since batteries are DC devices. The resistance (ohms) function of the meter is used to check for continuity. In appliance repair, this is most often used to check the integrity of power cords, fuses, thermostats, etc. You want a meter that uses common batteries such as 9V, AA, or AAA.
There are many multimeter tutorials on the internet. I can recommend three short tutorials on YouTube:
•“The Best Multimeter Tutorial (HD)”
•“How to Use a Multimeter for Beginners: Part 1 — Voltage Measurement/Multimeter Tutorial”
•“Collin’s Lab: Multimeters #Adafruit”
How to Repair a Table Lamp
By FixIt Bob Berkowitz, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in Warwick, New York
As a kid, Bob worked with his father, a licensed master electrician, on job sites, and there he was exposed to all the construction trades. During high school, he worked weekends in the maintenance department for a major commercial baker, and upon graduation Bob attended college and earned an associate degree in heating and refrigeration technology. Then Bob joined the U.S. Navy “Seabees” construction battalion, where he received advanced training in the operation and maintenance of nuclear reactors at remote military sites. At these sites, he had to repair what was broken with the materials at hand — per the Seabee motto, “Can Do.” After retirement from a management position at a utilities company, Berkowitz opened a handyman business specializing in small home repairs. When asked why he volunteers at the Repair Cafe, Bob says, “It’s in my blood to make myself available to friends and colleagues.”
Lamps are the most common item brought in for repairs throughout the United States. Many lamp owners don’t really know what’s wrong, and so we’ll see vague descriptions on the job tickets, like “Socket?,” “Contact not working,” or simply “Doesn’t come on.” The first step in any repair is to identify the problem. Replace the bulb with one that you know is good, and then plug the lamp into an outlet that you know is working. If it still doesn’t work, unplug the lamp and inspect the lamp and power cord. Examine the power cord for brittleness, signs of fraying, or broken wires (dogs and cats love to chew on them), especially where the wire connects to the plug or enters the lamp at the base. Check the lamp socket. If it is the twist type, can you feel it twist and click? Or does it just continue to twist? If it’s the push type, do you feel some resistance when you push it? Or does it just slide easily? If it is a pull chain type, do you feel some resistance and a click when you pull the chain? Or does it pull with ease? In general, if the socket has a switch and the switch operates with some resistance and a pronounced click, the socket could be okay.
An inexpensive digital multimeter is an asset in troubleshooting all types of electrical problems, and one function of the meter is continuity testing. Use a continuity tester when performing your initial inspection. The tester will confirm that the power cord is not broken or that the socket is functioning properly.
How to Replace a Lamp Socket
1.Remove the shade and the harp (the hardware to which the shade is attached) by lifting the ferrules at the bottom of each leg. Squeeze the legs together in order to release them. Remove the harp.
2.Snap off the socket shell from the socket shell cap. Squeeze the area marked “PRESS,” and pull it up to remove it. If the shell does not snap apart easily, slip a small screwdriver between the shell and the shell cap and pry it up.
3.Pull out the socket to expose enough wiring to allow the installation of a new socket.
4.Loosen the screws securing the wires, noting which wire was removed from the brass screw (hot) and which wire was removed from the silver screw (neutral).
5.Install the new socket in the reverse order, making sure to attach the power cord wires to the proper terminals. Note: The lamp power supply cord is normally not color-coded, but the wires can easily be identified. The hot wire insulation is smooth to the touch; the neutral wire has ribs extruded on the insulation that you can see and feel.
How to Replace the Power Cord
1.Follow steps 1–4 above.
2.Remove the wire through the base of the lamp.
3.Install the new wire in the reverse order.
4.Wire the new plug as you wired the socket: smooth insulation wire to the brass screw (hot) and the ribbed insulated wire to the silver screw (neutral).
Lamp repair materials are relatively inexpensive. I recommend that you replace both the socket and the power supply cord at the same time. In some cases, replacing the power supply cord is more involved, necessitating the complete disassembly of the lamp. In that case, replacing just the socket should do the job so long as the power cord is in good condition. Work completed, your lamp should be as good as new, if not better.
How to Repair a Vacuum Cleaner
By Ken Winterling, volunteer at Repair Cafes in Mamakating, Middletown, Montgomery, Newburgh, Pine Bush, and Warwick, New York
Ken, who wrote the section on how to use a multimeter that appears earlier in this chapter, has worked as a service technician, applications engineer, and network analyst working on voice and data networks. He’s held an amateur ham radio license for fifty years, and he is regularly asked to repair various electronic, electric, and mechanical items for family members. “Unfortunately, there are few places that repair items anymore. Those that do have charges that are out of proportion when compared to the cost of a new item. As a result, many people throw out a damaged item and buy a new one when a simple repair could have saved it.”
Repair Cafe coaches see almost as many vacuum cleaners as lamps. Many of the machines are much-loved older models that “suddenly stopped working.” Frequently, the problem is that the owner doesn’t know how to clean or lubricate the machine. Or how to straighten the bent prongs on the plug or replace the belt. Vacuum cleaners come in various forms — canister, upright, stick, and hand-held; some plug into a power source, others are “cordless” and powered by an internal rechargeable battery. The first step to correcting what’s wrong with your vacuum cleaner is to observe what is or isn’t happening.
Diagnostic Process
Regardless of the type of vacuum cleaner, the repair process begins with diagnosis: identifying what doesn’t work as well as what does work. Does the machine turn on; do you hear the motor running? Does it make unusual noises? Do you notice the smell of burning rubber or other unusual odors? Is there suction at the end of the hose? Is the beater bar turning? Is the dust bag/collector cup full? Is the filter (or filters) dirty? Answers to these questions help guide you to the source of the problem. After you check/correct each item in the list below, try using the machine to see if the problem has been corrected. If not, continue down the list of possibilities. A continuity tester or inexpensive digital multimeter is helpful for assessing electrical problems and checking fuses.
1.Is the motor running but making a squealing sound? If a loud screeching/squealing sound is coming from the motor, it is likely that the motor shaft bearings need to be oiled. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below.
2.Is the motor not running? Assuming a corded vacuum cleaner is turned on and the controls are set properly, a common cause for the motor not running is that the machine is not plugged into a working outlet. Is it plugged into an outlet controlled by a wall switch that is turned off? Check the outlet using a lamp or another device you know is working. Move the power cord to a working outlet.
3.Check the prongs on the plug. Are they straight, bent, missing? If bent, use pliers to straighten them. If it is a three-wire grounded plug, be sure the ground pin is firmly attached.
4.If the outlet and plug are good, then check the cord. You are looking for cracks, brittle/stiff sections, frayed wires, and crushed areas, which could happen if the cord was caught in a closed door, etc. This can sever a wire inside the cord without being visible on the outside. Damage to a cord often occurs at the plug and where it enters the machine.
5.Aside from bent prongs that can be straightened, if any of the above issues are discovered, then power cord replacement is indicated. I do not recommend patching/splicing the cord since it is normally under stress from being dragged around during use as well as occasionally getting caught on things, like furniture, while vacuuming. See item 9 on power cord replacement, below.
6.If the vacuum cleaner is cordless and the motor won’t run, it may be that the battery needs to be recharged. Some machines have a light or display to indicate the state of the battery charge and/or that the charger is recharging the battery. Unfortunately, some machines do not have an indicator, which makes troubleshooting more difficult. Use a DMM (digital multimeter) to check the voltage from the charger. Also check the charger cable and plug as advised above.
7.A dead battery is another possibility. Open the case and use a DMM to check the battery voltage at its terminals. Then, with the charger connected to the battery, plug in the charger and see if the voltage increases. If the voltage increases, then the charger is working. If the voltage does not increase, it may indicate a dead battery. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below.
8.Another reason for any vacuum cleaner motor to stop running is an activated thermal motor protection switch. If the motor overheats due to a full dust bag/cup or clogged suction hose, the thermal protection switch disconnects the motor power until the switch cools and closes again. Several manufacturers advise unplugging the machine and waiting forty-five minutes before plugging in the machine again and trying to use the vacuum cleaner. It is also possible that the thermal switch has failed and left the motor disconnected from the power cord. To check the switch you have to open the case. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below.
9.Power cord replacement is specific to each vacuum cleaner, but once you get the housing open, with most models it is easy to determine how the power cord is connected. For safety’s sake, purchase a replacement cord from the manufacturer. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below. (Note: Always grasp the plug, not the cord, to remove a cord or charger from a socket in the house or car. Pulling the cord to remove the plug will lead to failure at the joint where the wire meets the plug. It can cause wires to fray, start a fire, or shock you.)
10.Is the motor not running even though the power cord appears to be okay, the power switch is on, and the machine is plugged into a working outlet? In this case, you’ll need to open the motor housing and check the internal wiring. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below.
11.Is there no suction or weak suction? Suction problems can be caused by a clog in the hose, extension wand, or floor nozzle; an open suction control vent on the hose handle (not all vacuums have one); a cut(s) in the hose; a full dust bag/cup; or a clogged filter(s). Check the following: Is the dust bag/cup full? Is the bag firmly attached to the short tube? Are there any holes, cuts, or tears in the bag? Is the dust cup cracked or the gasket damaged?
Empty/replace the cup or replace the bag as indicated. Check the filter(s) (some vacuum cleaners have more than one filter), and clean/replace the filter(s) as recommended by the manufacturer. If there is still no suction, remove all attachments from the machine and turn it on. Place your hand over the suction port; if you feel strong suction, it is likely that a blockage exists in the hose or extension wand. See “Clearing Blockages” below. If you feel weak suction or none at all, look into the suction port. If you find an obstruction, remove it if you can. If you can’t see an obstruction, you’ll need to open the vacuum cleaner motor housing. See “Opening the Motor Housing” below.
Clearing Blockages
To clear a blockage from an extension wand or hose, disconnect it from the machine, and then look into it to see if it is blocked. If the blockage is near either end, grab it by hand, or try using a bent coat hanger or stiff wire to retrieve it. Be careful not to puncture the hose. If the blockage in the hose is past a place where you can see or grab it, place the hose flat on the floor in a straight line. Use a broom or mop handle that easily fits inside the hose to push the blockage toward the other end. If the hose is longer than the broom/mop handle, try compressing the hose toward the end where you inserted the handle. You can also try attaching the hose to the exhaust port on the vacuum, if it has one. Or use your shop vacuum, if you have one. Do this outside so you don’t spew dust and dirt in the house.
Another possible blockage location is the floor nozzle, both powered and unpowered. In the case of the powered floor nozzle, check that the beater bar is not covered in debris. Remove any debris wrapped around the beater bar. Check to see if the beater bar is freely rotating and turns when the power switch is turned on. If it does not turn, check that the drive belt is in place. Reseat or replace the belt as necessary.
Opening the Motor Housing
There are several circumstances in which you will have to open the motor housing: if you need to replace the power cord; if the vacuum cleaner itself has no suction, and you can’t see an obstruction; if the motor is making squealing sounds; or if you need to check/replace the battery in a cordless vacuum cleaner. Most vacuum cleaners have visible screws that you remove to separate the sections. Sometimes, however, a screw(s) will be under a name plate or otherwise hidden from view. Try removing the visible screws and separating the case. Make note of the screw size in each location as some might be longer or wider than others.
If the case won’t come apart, see where it seems to be stuck and look for a name plate, label, or other item possibly covering a screw. These plates and other items that might be covering screws are usually held in place by plastic clips, so be gentle when prying them off. Labels are usually affixed with adhesive. You can usually pry them off very slowly. You can also search the internet for a YouTube video about your model.
Once the housing is open, perform any or all of the tasks that necessitated opening the case:
1.Look for and remove an obstruction in the vacuum path.
2.Apply a few drops of light machine oil to the motor shaft bearings.
3.Check the power cord, switch, and motor wiring connections.
4.Check continuity.
5.Check the thermal switch; it should be closed when cool.
6.Check/replace battery in a cordless vacuum cleaner.
How to Fix a Sewing Machine
By Ken Fix It Boscher, volunteer at Repair Cafes in Esopus, Gardiner, Kingston, LaGrange, New Paltz, and Rosendale, New York
Ken Fix It remembers taking apart old radios and other appliances when he was six or seven years old before moving on to bicycles, lawn mowers, and cars. He had to work on his first car because he couldn’t afford to get it fixed by a professional. Second car, too. All the cars, actually. He ended up working as a professional auto mechanic for about a decade and credits that experience with enhancing his troubleshooting and diagnostic skills. Later, Ken operated huge factory machinery, and he fixed and operated computers. These days, he says, “I fix stuff, mostly houses.” Ken volunteers regularly at Repair Cafes. “I picture a square with all four points connected, and a couple words at each corner: ‘To learn,’ ‘To teach,’ ‘To fix,’ and ‘To help.’ Maybe that’s why I keep showing up.”
Sometimes the Repair Cafe feels like a cross between Antiques Road-show and the Island of Misfit Toys! Sewing machines, when they work properly, are assemblages of spinning and oscillating parts that perform a function that seems almost magical. They loop one piece of thread around another, locking them together so stitched seams don’t unravel the way they do in a Looney Tunes cartoon.
At the Repair Cafe, I see quite a few sewing machines, mostly older, simpler ones that have been sitting around for a few years. The usual complaint is that they run very slowly or not at all. Others, especially the ones with fancy switch options, can have a host of problems best left to a professional sewing machine mechanic.
Simple sewing machines that run very slowly usually respond well to a good oiling. This involves adding a drop of oil to all the oil holes and everything that slides back and forth. Take off the top cover, turn on the machine, and look for a long spinning shaft that runs the length of the machine. At the ends of the shaft you’ll see a square metal thing, called a pillow block, with a small hole on the top. That is the oil hole.
The pillow block is designed to locate the main shaft of the machine and allow it to spin freely. The bearing surfaces in the pillow blocks, called bushings, are made of a porous bronze metal designed to accept and hold oil. But certain oils oxidize and get gunky after long exposure to air.
The solution is to add a light oil and let it de-gunkify and flush out the old oil. Air tool oil, light machine oil, even automatic transmission fluid — a gear lube with many different additives, some of which are detergents — are good to use. I use Tri-Flow, a light, low-gunk lube available at bike stores. I don’t recommend WD-40. It’s light, but it’s not a lubricant.
Occasionally, a machine is really stuck and the motor alone won’t turn it. In this case, gently rock the wheel on the end, back and forth, where the belt goes around. Once everything is turning, run it for a full minute, varying the speed. Then, run it at full speed for a good fifteen seconds. I have heard machines speed up dramatically with this method, going from barely groaning around to whirring merrily, like sewing machines are supposed to do! Sewing machines work great when they work, and it’s usually pretty easy to get them to work.
How to Patch a Hole
By Raheli Harper, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in Warwick, New York
Raheli Harper is a self-described stay-at-home mother, fiber artist, and homesteader who teaches visible mending classes and writes for Dirt magazine. She believes that sewing gets less respect than other handicrafts because it’s traditionally been done by women working at home, hidden from the world. Hand sewing, which once provided everyone’s clothing and many tools, is now “dismissed or seen as a kid’s craft.”
Raheli’s grandmother taught her to knit at age eight, and by the time she was in elementary school, she was stitching her doll’s clothes. Inspired by her mother’s creative “designer” patches on worn jeans, Raheli appreciates clothes that have a story: “Lots of people brag, ‘I got this on sale!’ That’s their clothing story. When I mend my clothes, the story is more personal.”
Raheli volunteers to repair clothes and textiles using a sewing machine or hand stitching. She has repaired Velcro on shoes, seams in shirts and skirts, and an endless supply of jeans with holes. She calls the Repair Cafe “a place where people can come together to admire each other’s handiwork, instead of our consumer choices.”
Our culture assumes that all goods are disposable and replaceable, but it takes so little to keep a shirt or pair of jeans usable — just a needle, some thread, and a bit of patience.
What You Will Need
You will need embroidery sewing needles (with a big eye), button/craft thread, a fabric patch, pins, standard thread for basting, and chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Your patch should be a piece of fabric similar in weight to the item you are mending. A button-down shirt can be patched with quilting fabric, but the ripped knee in your jeans will need a heavier piece of fabric, like denim or twill.
Good to Know
•Additional basic sewing techniques can be found on YouTube and in the book Mend It Better: Creative Patching, Darning, and Stitching by Kristin M. Roach.
•Basting, or tacking down with loose stitches, will take just a few minutes and keep your patch secured while you work. Once you’re done basting, you can remove the pins so you can work without getting poked. When I skip this step, the pins always slide loose, and I am forced to work very carefully while sitting at a table. Basting allows me to lounge on the couch while I work or to carry mending projects in my bag without losing the patches.
•When I place my patch on the inside of the garment, I don’t bother finishing the edges of the patch. They will unravel a little over time, but the stitching ensures that it doesn’t go too far.
Instructions
1.Lay the garment on a flat surface and smooth out the ripped area so it is as flat as possible. If the hole is in the knee area, the cloth may be stretched out by use; just do the best you can to lay it flat.
2.Measure the area you will need for your patch by adding one inch above and one inch below the hole. So, for example, a rip that is three inches across and half an inch high will need a patch that is five inches wide by two and a half inches high. If the fabric around the hole is worn thin, your patch will need to extend beyond that so it can be stitched to strong fabric.
3.Turn the garment inside out and lay the patch over the hole, double-checking to make sure it covers the whole rip and extends into stable fabric. Pin the patch to the fabric, being sure you don’t pin through the back of the garment.
4.Using an embroidery needle, thread a color that contrasts with the color of the fabric, and baste the patch in place. Baste using half-inch to one-inch stitches, making sure to secure as much of the patch as possible, around the rip and right up to the edges.
5.Remove pins. Turn the garment right side out. Thread your needle with button/craft thread, and knot the end; do not double the thread. Use chalk or a disappearing ink pen to mark the center line of the patch (vertical, horizontal, or diagonal is your choice), then mark parallel lines from the center line to the edges of your patch. The lines should be about a half inch apart.
6.Begin stitching on the center line, starting at one edge, aiming for quarter-inch long stitches or slightly shorter.
7.When you get to the end of the first row, end with the needle inside the pant leg. Bring the needle back up at the beginning of the next line of stitching. Repeat this process, stitching along each of your marked lines.
8.When you have four inches of thread left on the needle, stitch through the same spot three times in a row; this will make a secure knot (or used your preferred method for making a knot). End with your needle inside the pant leg, cut your thread, and start a new one.
9.If you begin at the center line and stitch the lines moving toward the left edge of the patch, eventually you will arrive at the left edge and you will need to end your thread with a knot, cut the thread, and move toward the right side of the patch. Begin again on the line marked to the right of the center line, and continue stitching the lines marked to the right.
10.Cut your basting threads and pull them out.
11.Wear your mends with pride!
How to Repair a Torn Teddy Bear
By Joan Bono, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in Warwick, New York
Joan Bono is a stained-glass artist who learned how to make teddy bears at a class held at her local fabric shop years ago. Today, she has a business creating custom teddy bears from a pattern designed by her daughter-in-law, Terie. One of Joan’s specialties is creating memorial teddy bears for people after the death of a loved one. Each bear is crafted from the material of the loved one’s fur coat, which might otherwise have been discarded. Bono even crafts a scarf for the bear, cutting the coat’s silk lining in a way that highlights the original owner’s monogrammed initials.
Recruited to volunteer by a friend and fellow sewing coach, Deanne, Joan wields her needle to restore battered but beloved soft toys at Warwick’s Repair Cafe. “Just seeing the smile on a child’s face when I can repair their favorite buddy makes my day. I believe in the Repair Cafe concept, fixing not dumping. Above all, my fellow fixers are a happy, enthusiastic bunch of fun people to be with!”
Teddy bears suffer many of the same traumas experienced by dolls and other soft toys made of fiber. Because children and dogs love to carry teddies around by an arm, leg, or one ear, reattaching a torn limb or ear is a common task.
What You Will Need
•A pair of small microtip scissors, five inches long, or embroidery scissors
•Straight pins
•A seam ripper
•A thin, straight, two-inch-long hand-sewing needle
•Standard 100 percent polyester thread the same color as the bear
•Embroidery thread in the same color as the bear’s nose and mouth
Instructions
Ears
If the ear has been lost or is too damaged to replace, fashion a headband or a bow to camouflage the absence. If you have the detached ear, turn the raw edge under one-eighth of an inch. Use straight pins to attach the ear to the bear’s head, carefully lining up the detached ear so that the position is symmetrical with that of the opposite, attached ear.
Thread the needle with doubled polyester thread. Knot the thread. Tack the ear to the head with loose stitches to hold it in place. Remove the pins. Pinch the back of the ear to give it dimension and make it look more real. Sew the pinch in place at the ear’s base. Using overhand stitches, sew the ear to the bear’s head at the turned-under raw edge.
Eyes
If the bear is to be played with by a child, not just displayed, don’t replace the original detached button eyes. Buttons can be easily swallowed. Rather, replace both buttons with safety lock-in eyes, which can be purchased at fabric or craft stores.
First, use a seam ripper to open a seam at the back or side of the bear’s head. Remove stuffing as necessary. Push the safety lock eye from the front of the fabric into the opened head at the position of the original eye. If the hole supporting the eye is too big, a few stitches with matching thread will close the hole and support the eye snuggly. Then attach the safety lock into the head; it will be concealed when the stuffing is inserted into the head. Attach the washer on the inside of the fabric head. Replace the stuffing. Use a needle and thread to make slip stitches to close the seam at the back or side of the bear’s head.
Nose and Mouth
Use embroidery thread to fill in the damaged outline of the nose with tight, flat “satin” stitches. Create a mouth by sewing an upside-down Y under the nose.
Fluff the Fur
When repairs are complete, use a sewing needle to carefully pick or lift the bear’s “fur” out of the seams, taking care not to disturb any stitches. This is tedious work, but if it’s done carefully, the seams will be nearly invisible, giving the bear a nice finished look.
How to Fix a Broken Zipper
By Deanne Singer, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in Warwick, New York
After Deanne Singer retired from teaching marketing to advanced-placement high school students, she looked for something creative to do. In addition to volunteering for the Warwick Friendly Visitor Program, the Warwick Valley Gardeners Club, and Too Good to Toss, an annual free community swap, Singer started her own custom baking business and another business offering alterations, mending, tailoring, and custom sewing.
Three years ago, Deanne, aka “the Zipper Lady,” was one of the very first to volunteer for Orange County’s first Repair Cafe. “It’s an awesome opportunity to move beyond self and make the world a better place. Everyone benefits. It’s a win-win event at no cost to the town. And it’s a pleasure to work with the other women in the sewing area. We’re all so compatible, sharing ideas and supplies but with different areas of expertise.”
There are two types of zippers: open-end zippers, used on outerwear like jackets, and closed-end zippers, used on skirts, pants, and jeans. Zippers have only a few parts — teeth, slide, pull, top and bottom stops, and the box at the bottom of open-end zippers. The good news is that 80 percent of broken zippers do not need to be replaced completely!
Open-End Zippers
Start by evaluating the problem. The easiest predicament to fix is a broken pull tab, the part on the slider that you grab to make the zipper go up and down. A broken pull tab can be replaced easily and quickly with a bent paper clip, a keyring, a shoelace, or any other object that you can slip onto the slider.
The next thing to examine is the slider. Held under tension and repeatedly forced up and down, it might have lost its connection to the teeth. Most often, the problem is evident because the zipper opens both above and below the slider. Sliders expand with use and lose connection with the teeth. It’s easy to fix this problem, too. Use pliers to apply gentle pressure to both sides of the slider to compress it back to its original size so that it reconnects with the zipper’s teeth.
Be careful! If you apply too much pressure, the slider will break, and you’ll have to replace it. If that happens, be sure to replace the slider with another slider exactly the same size. The size is usually printed on the back of the slider. Purchase a new one at a fabric store, or take a slider from an old garment that you no longer wear and are ready to discard.
With the proper-size slider in hand, your next task is to put the slider back on the teeth. If your jacket has an open-end zipper, you will only have to attach the slider to one side. Remove the stop at the top, put the new slider on, then replace the stop. If you didn’t manage to save the old stop or it is broken, you can use thread to create a stop in its place. Simply hand-stitch a horizontal line between the last two teeth of the zipper tape to stop the slider from slipping off.
If the zipper is missing teeth, or if the bottom box (the part used to engage the zipper on outerwear) is worn or missing, you must purchase a new zipper. Always take the garment, with the old zipper intact, to the store with you. Zippers come in an array of colors, lengths, and types, including metal, plastic, and nylon. It’s best to replicate the original one installed by the manufacturer. Carefully remove the old zipper and note how it was sewn into the garment. Then sew in the new zipper.
For more information on replacing a zipper, look for online instructions specific to the type of zipper you are replacing and its use. There are all types of zippers and many, many videos.
Closed-End Zippers
Closed-end zippers are commonly used in pants, skirts, and jeans. Again, evaluate the problem. Is it a problem with the pull tab or slider? If so, follow the directions above. If teeth are missing near the bottom, the zipper can be salvaged. Remove the bottom stop, reinstall the slider above the missing teeth, then use needle and thread to hand-stitch a new stop so that the zipper does not come in contact with the missing teeth. This can also be done by removing the top stop. If you have salvaged the bottom stop, it can be moved up, to just above the missing teeth to stop the zipper’s progress. Unfortunately, if the missing teeth are at the top of the zipper, you will need to purchase a new one.
How to Do a Simple Wooden Chair Repair
By Naomi Aubain, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in New Paltz, New York
Naomi grew up in a family with a lifestyle that was frugal and rich in the arts. Her grandmother was a seamstress who passed her skills and passion along to her daughter and granddaughters. Her mother, an art teacher and painter, tackled house renovations at a time when women could not get a legal permit to do that kind of work. Naomi grew up thinking that women could do anything and discovered that she liked working with her hands. She has worked as a cabinetmaker, a commercial artist, a baker, and a graphic design manager. Now Naomi fixes furniture for a living and enjoys sharing her skills with other like-minded people at the Repair Cafe in New Paltz, New York. “The community energy is so strong when people get together to keep a family heirloom going for another fifty years.…It is very satisfying to make people happy and help make the world a little better. I am constantly surprised at how curious people are in the repair process. It helps to remind me to make it a teachable moment.”
Wobbly wooden chairs make frequent appearances at Repair Cafes. They’re often part of a dining room set that was inherited, or purchased secondhand, or found sitting on a curb. The cause of the wobble is sometimes unintentional misuse — there’s something about teenagers that makes them want to rock back on the chair’s two back legs! Sadly, there’s no quicker way to destroy a beloved chair.
Loose Chair Joints
The first thing that usually compromises a well-used wooden chair is the joints. The old glue dries out, the wood loses moisture and shrinks, and the up-and-down stresses cause the joints to work loose. Sometimes the problem is caused by missing screws or nails, and simply replacing these can be a big help. Tightening loose screws is also a common remedy. But if these issues are not the problem, the chair needs to be reglued.
First Steps for Regluing
In order to understand the extent of the damage, examine the whole chair. Look for loose arms, legs, dowels, and supports; recessed nails or screws; and cracks in the wood. Once you have identified all the problem areas, you can focus on making the repairs.
You’ll need to separate all the loose joints and clean out as much of the old glue as possible. Use a mallet to encourage loose joints to separate, ideally one with a rubber end to prevent damage to the furniture. If you do not have one of these specialty mallets, tape about four layers of cardboard onto the working end of a regular hammer. To check if a joint still has a good glue hold, strike the area with a few sharp blows. Try not to be over-zealous on the “good” joints as they could still have lots of life left.
Cleaning the Joints
After you have taken the chair as far apart as it wants to go, clean out the old glue. Use a flat rasp on the dowel-shaped tenon end of the joint. Rough sandpaper or a sharp chisel can also be used. It is harder to get into the hole or slot part (the “mortise”) of the joint to clean it out. If it is accessible, a chisel is the best tool to loosen the glue at the bottom, while a round rasp works best on the sides. A rolled-up piece of rough sandpaper can also be used on the sides of the hole.
Gluing the Chair
Once the joints are clean, it is time to glue the chair back together. Make sure that all the joints are free of old glue and any other residue. Dry-fit the joints before putting any glue on them to make sure they go together well. Prepare the work area so glue drips can be easily cleaned up. You will also need a wet rag or cellulose sponge to remove excess glue. Yellow carpenter’s glue designed for wood repairs works best, such as Titebond Original Wood Glue. The yellow wood glue is water soluble, which makes for easy cleanup, and it can be coaxed apart if more repairs are needed later. Do not use the type of glue that expands while it dries (like some Gorilla brand glues). Other types of glue that cannot be reversed, like epoxy, will limit your options down the road.
Apply a liberal amount of glue to the tenon and a moderate amount inside the mortise joint. You don’t want too much at the bottom of the mortise, as it will keep the tenon from going all the way in. Also apply glue onto the “shoulders” of the tenon. Basically, put glue wherever the wooden pieces will touch each other in the joint. One of the most common reasons for joint failure is not enough glue. A small straw or popsicle stick is very helpful for getting glue all around the inside of the mortise.
Assemble the glue-ready joints, and use the mallet to make sure they close up as much as possible. Apply woodworking clamps with as much pressure as you can. Use scrap wood or cardboard under the clamp heads to protect the furniture.
If you do not have traditional woodworking clamps, here are a few options:
•Use a rope and screwdriver to make a tourniquet around the glued area.
•Ask your local bicycle shop for an old tire inner tube. Cut off the air valve, and wrap the tube around the glued area, tightening it as much as possible.
•Bungee cords, a commercial version of the inner tube but with hooks, also work well.
Clean off any excess glue with a damp rag, making sure to get it all. It is much easier to clean up glue when it’s wet than it is to scrape it off later. Let the glue set as recommended on the label, usually at least thirty minutes. Wait another twenty-four hours before using the chair. If screws were previously used to keep the joints together, they can be put back into the same holes. Add a toothpick to the inside of the hole before putting the screw back in, as that will give it more “bite” and hold it in place better. Do not put nails back, as they don’t do much for the joint and make it harder to repair later.
Congratulations! Your chair is ready for another thirty years of use. Enjoy your well-earned sit-down.
How to Repair a Bike
By Roger Bergman, volunteer at the Repair Cafe in Warwick, New York
For forty-nine years, Roger owned a shop that sold, rented, and repaired brand-name bicycles on New York City’s Upper East Side. He says that he learned his trade “mostly by trial and error, as well as in conversation with those more skillful than I.” Roger was trained and certified by numerous top-end bicycle and parts manufacturers, including Campagnolo, Mavic, RockShox, Shimano, and Trek. His store’s service department repaired all brands and types of bicycles; the staff prided themselves on being able to complete most repairs while the customer waited. Roger brings this same sensibility to his work as a repair coach. “I see too much in the marketplace that is designed not to be repaired. It hurts me to see a bicycle — or any object — that does not have adjusting screws or a way to access the works. There is real satisfaction in fixing something that is broken. [That is why] I have spent twenty minutes repairing a small object, such as a bicycle bell, that costs only two dollars wholesale.…The satisfaction of making something work is wonderful.”
Look, Look, and Look Again!
In addition to running a shop, I also organized bike tours in the city and farther afield. For safety’s sake, I recommend a bike tune-up every thousand miles or every six months. The first rule for bike repair is to take a very good look at the bicycle. If your bike is making noise, look carefully while you turn the wheels, pedals, and chain separately to see whether something is dragging on a moving part. Look all over — underneath, around the back, behind a decorative cover, really all over — using a flashlight if necessary. If you see a broken wire, trace it in both directions to see what it does. On bicycles, most parts do exactly what they seem to do. A wire that connects the brake lever to the brake calipers probably transmits the brake power when you squeeze the lever. If that brake isn’t working and you find a broken wire, you may have diagnosed the problem just by looking. If you have access to a working duplicate of the item needing repair, look at the working one too. The front brake may be a duplicate of the rear brake, so look at both and compare the broken one to the working one.
Continue to look even when you think you have found the problem. If you are fixing a bicycle’s flat tire, first look for something sharp that punctured your inner tube. But don’t stop there! Keep looking for other sharp objects stuck elsewhere in the same tire. Search for cuts in the tire and places where the rubber is worn so thin that small sharp objects will penetrate it easily.
Stay Organized
The second rule of bike repair is to stay organized. We can’t always select the time and place for bike repair, but we can certainly stay organized. Always line up the parts as you remove them, so you will know the correct order in which to put them back. Many parts seem to have reversible orientation, but they might not. Lay the parts out carefully, in the order that you remove them, and you will have a fighting chance to get everything back in the right place.
Be Very Skeptical of Online Repair Videos
There are tons of bike repair videos, many produced by the Park Tool Company and other manufacturers, as well as retail bike shops and home mechanics. But rule three is to be very skeptical of online repair videos. They are often either way too general and therefore unhelpful, or way too specific and therefore irrelevant. Many videos will say, “Replace if worn out” and “Ensure bolt is tight.” But how is the first-time home mechanic supposed to know when something is worn out, or when the bolt is tight enough?
My definition of “worn out” is “shouldn’t be reused.” If you are repairing your bike at home, rather than on the road in a remote location, and you see a part that should be round but has some small gouges in it, you must answer several questions: (1) Would this part be dangerous to reuse? (2) Do I want to make this repair again when the symptom gets more annoying? (3) Do I want to ride this bike until I can find a replacement part? (4) If the part is expensive, does the bike merit the cost? (5) Will continued use of this worn part damage other bike parts? (6) Is this one of those bike parts, such as some brands of chain rivet, that are not designed to be removed and then reinstalled?
How tight is “tight”? Most threaded fasteners have turning resistance that remains constant as you turn, until the resistance gets harder and harder, which keeps the fastener securely in place. Turn it too hard, and you’ve damaged the fastener or the work, or both. The trick is to stop someplace in the middle of the increasing resistance: not at the top, not at the bottom, but in the Goldilocks zone where it’s “just right.” Technical mechanics use a torque wrench, which measures how much turning force they are applying. Charts are readily available on the internet to indicate the desired turning force value for parts, and many modern bike parts have torque values printed right on them! Get used to the nomenclature — newton meters (nm) and inch-pounds (in.-lb.) — and practice using torque tools to learn, for example, what 5 nm feels like. I also suggest that you experiment with disposable parts to overtorque them intentionally (gasp!). Know that small bolts are more easily destroyed than large ones and that different metals behave differently. You will begin to appreciate both the use of torque tools and the art of not using them.
Professional Bike Technicians Deserve Respect
Rule four is to respect the retail bike shop, a place that supports your local community and where a responsible and caring technician must deal with numerous models and variations that change frequently. The average repair shop will have parts and experience to fix a thirty-year-old bike, a department store BSO (“bicycle-shaped object”), or a newly produced multi-thousand-dollar road bike, all in just twenty-four hours. I do advocate for DIY repairs, but I sincerely respect the job done by a professional.
Quick Tips for Troubled Digital Devices
By Gabrielle Griffis, co-organizer of the Fixit Clinic on Cape Cod, Massachusetts
Gabrielle is the outreach coordinator for the Wellfleet Public Library located on Cape Cod, Massachusetts. In this capacity, she organizes community programs, such as the Fixit Clinic, and offers regular tech assistance to library patrons. She grew up in a household with her parents and four older siblings. Her maternal grandfather, a first-generation American, was an inveterate fixer and tinkerer. He took things apart at the kitchen table, and he taught Gabrielle’s mother how to care for bicycles and cars. Gabrielle’s father, a technician by trade, routinely repaired household items, including electronics. When Gabrielle bought her first laptop, she understood that she was responsible for its maintenance, but she didn’t know that the diagnostic and hands-on skills she picked up around the kitchen table would one day serve her so well in her career. “Helping people with problems on all kinds of devices — tablets, smartphones, and laptops — is now part of my job. Repairing is an act of resistance; it’s recognition that the Earth’s ecological systems are finite, fragile, and should be respected.”
People often bring their laptops or tablets to repair events with the complaint that they “run slow.” A variety of problems, including slow processing speed, can be solved across a range of electronic devices by doing a system reboot. Whether it’s a smartphone, laptop, or tablet, turning a device off will reset a lot of malfunctioning programs. This is especially true if a device has been used and left on for a number of days. The logic of the reboot can also be applied to the practice of refreshing or restarting programs. Often a nonresponsive or lagging program, such as a word processor or internet browser, can be fixed simply by exiting and restarting the software, without having to turn the device completely off. In the same way, when third-party email servers have issues with incoming or outgoing mail, many times a quick solution will be to delete the account and add it back onto the device.
Another major fix for many device problems is to ensure that the operating system or software is up-to-date by checking the general settings. Wi-Fi issues, cloud storage problems, and disorganized text conversations magically resolve after an update. This is another reason why reboots solve so many problems; they’re necessary to finalize updates.
When things go awry on a device with no obvious explanation, check the machine for buttons that may have been inadvertently switched “on” or “off.” Sometimes a silent switch or Airplane Mode button can interfere with internet connectivity and other functions.
First Steps in Device Repair
1.Turn the device off and on.
2.Exit and restart applications.
3.Check for accidentally turned-on buttons (like Airplane Mode or the ring/silent switch).
4.Check to see if the operating system or software is up-to-date and compatible.
5.Uninstall and reinstall the program.
6.Log out or erase the account and then add the account or log back in.
In certain cases, slow programs can be attributed to mechanical issues, especially with regard to temperature. Cold temperatures can drain a battery, while hot temperatures can fry a motherboard, and God forbid coffee is spilled on the keyboard! In some instances, laptops can run for months, if not years, after sustaining liquid damage, and then suddenly stop working. With issues regarding mechanical malfunction, small problems can cascade into big problems. A displaced tracking pad can lead to a strained cable, which can affect the circuit board and even break it. That’s why it’s best to fix the smaller issue before it turns into a larger and more costly one.
Conversely, sometimes a seemingly large problem can turn out to be a small one. For example, a charging port that stops working on a smartphone could be the result of accumulated dust or debris. Gentle removal of dirt particles can save you from having to buy a new phone.
It’s important to consider how a device is being used, looking at the complexity and number of tasks being run at the same time. Video processing requires more RAM (random access memory) than using a basic calculator. Knowing your device’s capabilities can help you avoid or solve a lot of problems. For instance, while updates are typically a necessary part of operating system maintenance, completely updating an operating system can make a device run slower. And in some cases, it will make running older applications impossible.
Questions to Ask When Troubleshooting
•Is there anything physically wrong with the device?
•Has the device been exposed to extreme temperatures? Is it too hot? Too cold?
•Has anything happened to the device in the past that could be affecting it now?
•Do I have background programs running? Have I turned the device off?
•How will an update affect the device? Will it run faster? Slower? Is the update compatible with other software?
•What is the device’s history? Is it refurbished?
It’s good to remember that although smartphones, tablets, and laptops can share many of the same functions, no two devices are used in exactly the same way. Everything from the type of applications to battery-charging habits impact what’s going on. We all have programs and patterns of use that determine how well our device runs. Being mindful of storage and system memory can help you better determine what’s happening when things go wrong.
One solution for slow devices or internet browsers is to periodically clear cookies and the cache. These features can make an internet browser run faster in the short term, but over time they can have the opposite effect. Clearing the cache can be one of many things that frees up space on a smartphone with limited storage. The size of a phone’s storage space can be determined by going to its general settings.
Tips for Freeing Up Storage and Making a Device Run Faster
•Delete or transfer large files such as videos and other media.
•Clear the internet browser’s cache, browsing history, and cookies.
•Clean out voicemail, old text conversations, and call history.
•Look in storage for applications using excessive space, and delete unnecessary apps.
Adware is another problem on smartphones and laptops that many people can fix themselves. Unlike malware or spyware, adware can usually be disabled or erased by going to a program’s settings, the application itself, or the internet browser’s settings. Adware typically starts when a new application, such as a game or a toolbar, is installed on a device. When persistent and consistent advertisements for getaway vacations, get-rich-quick schemes, or dragon fantasy games infiltrate a screen, there’s a good chance it’s adware.
Given the accelerated rate at which technology is changing and the sheer number of devices and their uses, staying current can be a real challenge. For many folks who did not grow up with or have access to these devices, navigating them can be really anxiety provoking. Computer phobia, like math phobia, is very real! It’s important to remember what a privilege it is to use technology; not everyone can afford these wonders. We should always take the best care of our devices and remember what it costs to make them and what a gift it is to use them.