Chiang Mai
Old City Temples
Old City Museums
Evening Shopping
Outdoor Activities
Thanon Nimmanhaemin
Doi Suthep
Chiang Mai Walking Tour
Sights
Activities
Tours
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Information
Where to Stay
Chiang Mai at a Glance…
The cultural capital of the north, Chiang Mai is beloved by temple- spotters, culture vultures and adventure-loving families. The narrow streets steeped in history provide an atmosphere more like a country town than a modern city. Beyond the old city, modern Chiang Mai offers fantastic dining thanks to imports from Myanmar and Japan, as well as local specialities. Great escapes from the city lie just an hour away and tours shuttle visitors to jungle treks, elephant sanctuaries and minority villages.
Chiang Mai in Two Days
Visit the temples and museums of the old city. Have either lunch or dinner at Kao Soi Fueng Fah. Spend your second day doing a Thai cooking course then visit the Saturday Walking Street or Sunday Walking Street.
Chiang Mai in Four Days
On your third day join a full-day outdoor activity, such as trekking, zip-lining or mountain biking. The next day, tour the shops and restaurants of Th Nimmanhaemin – try Tong Tem Toh for northern Thai cuisine – and stay for the nightlife.
Arriving in Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai International Airport Airport taxis charge a flat fare. Some hotels also provide hotel transfer.
Arcade Bus Terminal Take a chartered rót daang (‘red car’) or tuúk-tuúk to the city centre.
Chiang Mai Train Station Hop on a chartered roét daang or tuúk-tuúk.
Sleeping
Accommodation prices in the city are slowly creeping up, but you can still find a respectable air-con room from 650B. Make reservations far in advance if visiting during Chinese New Year, Songkran and other holiday periods.
For more information on the best neighbourhood to stay in, see here.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Old City Temples
Chiang Mai’s temples show-case traditional Lanna art and architecture, using teak harvested in the once-dense frontiers and demonstrating traditions inherited from Myanmar and China.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Learn about Buddhism and being a monk at Wat Chedi Luang’s Monk Chat.
8Need to Know
Temples are open during daylight hours and donations are appreciated.
5 Take a Break
Akha Ama Cafe, near Wat Phra Singh, is a cute cafe with an economic development mission for Akha hill tribes.
oTop Tip
Visitors must remove their shoes before entering a temple building.
The temples featured here are all located in the old city, but other beautiful temples lie outside of the city walls.
Wat Phra Singh
Chiang Mai’s most revered temple, Wat Phra Singh (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพระสิงห์ ; Th Singharat; 20B; 
h5am-8.30pm) sits regally at the end of Th Ratchadamnoen. Behind its whitewashed walls are lavish monastic buildings and immaculately trimmed grounds, dotted with coffee stands and massage pavilions. Pilgrims flock here to venerate the famous Buddha image known as Phra Singh (Lion Buddha), housed in Wihan Lai Kham, a small chapel immediately south of the chedi (stupa) to the rear of the temple grounds.
This elegant idol is said to have come to Thailand from Sri Lanka and was enshrined in 1367. The chapel is similarly striking, with gilded naga (mythical serpent) gables and sumptuous lai·krahm (gold-pattern stencilling) inside.
Despite Phra Singh’s exalted status, very little is actually known about the image, which has more in common with images from northern Thailand than with Buddha statues from Sri Lanka. Adding to the mystery, there are two nearly identical images elsewhere in Thailand, one in the Bangkok National Museum and one in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Regardless of its provenance, the statue has become a focal point for religious celebrations during the Songkran festival, when it is ceremoniously paraded for worshippers to bathe.
As you wander the monastery grounds, note the raised temple library, housed in a dainty teak and stucco pavilion known as Ho Trai, decorated with bas-relief angels. The temple’s main chedi, rising over a classic Lanna-style octagonal base, was constructed by King Pa Yo in 1345; it’s often wrapped in bolts of orange cloth by devotees.
Wat Chedi Luang
Wat Chedi Luang (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดเจดีย์หลวง ; Th Phra Pokklao; adult/child 40/20B; h7am-10pm) is not quite as grand as Wat Phra Singh, but its towering, ruined Lanna-style chedi (built in 1441) is much taller and the sprawling compound is powerfully atmospheric. The famed Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha), now held in Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaew, resided in the eastern niche of the chedi until 1475; today you can view a jade replica, given as a gift from the Thai king in 1995 to celebrate the 600th anniversary of the chedi.
In the main wí·hăhn (sanctuary) is a revered standing Buddha statue, known as Phra Chao Attarot, flanked by two disciples. There are more chapels and statues in teak pavilions at the rear of the compound, including a huge reclining Buddha and a handsome Chinese-influenced seated Buddha barely contained by his robes. The daily Monk Chat under a tree in the grounds always draws a crowd of interested travellers.
Next to the main entrance on Th Phra Pokklao, you’ll pass Wat Chedi Luang’s other claim to fame: the Làk Meuang (city pillar), allegedly raised by King Mengrai himself when Chiang Mai was founded in 1296. Buddhist rules dictate that only men can enter the pavilion to view the pillar. The gateway to the shrine on Th Phra Pakklao is flanked by yaksha (guardian demons) and Lanna warriors are depicted in bas-relief on the gates.
Wat Phan Tao
Without doubt the most atmospheric wát in the old city is Wat Phan Tao (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพันเถา ; Th Phra Pokklao; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours). This teak marvel sits in the shadow of Wat Chedi Luang. Set in a compound full of fluttering orange flags, the monastery is a monument to the teak trade, with an enormous prayer hall supported by 28 gargantuan teak pillars and lined with dark teak panels, enshrining a particularly graceful gold Buddha image. The juxtaposition of the orange monks’ robes against this dark backdrop during evening prayers is particularly sublime.
Above the facade is a striking image of a peacock over a dog, representing the astrological year of the former royal resident’s birth. The monastery is one of the focal points for celebrations during the Visakha Bucha festival in May or June, when monks light hundreds of butter lamps around the pond in the grounds.
Wat Chiang Man
Chiang Mai’s oldest temple, Wat Chiang Man (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดเชียงมั่น ; Th Ratchaphakhinai; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours), was established by the city’s founder, Phaya Mengrai, sometime around 1296. In front of the ubosot (ordination hall), a stone slab, engraved in 1581, bears the earliest known reference to the city’s founding. The main wí·hăhn also contains the oldest known Buddha image created by the Lanna kingdom, cast in 1465.
A smaller second wí·hăhn enshrines the city’s guardian images; the bas-relief marble Phra Sila Buddha, believed to have been carved in Sri Lanka more than 1000 years ago; and the tiny crystal Phra Sae Tang Khamani Buddha, reportedly crafted for the king of Lopburi in around 200 AD.
The sacred images are housed inside a handsome, mon·dòp–like altar known as a khong phra chao, a distinctive feature of ancient Lanna temples. The monastery has a glorious chedi, with an elephant-flanked stucco base and a gilded upper level.
oDid You Know?
Phra Singh is said to have come from Sri Lanka but it has more in common with images from northern Thailand than with Buddha statues from Sri Lanka.
Wat Inthakhin Saduemuang
Tucked to the side of the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre, Wat Inthakhin Saduemuang (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดอินทขิลสะดือเมือง ; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm) was the original location of the Làk Meuang (city pillar); part of its name refers to the ‘city navel’, or geographic centre, which was chosen some 700 years ago. The city pillar was moved to Wat Chedi Luang in 1800 after this temple fell into disrepair. It has since been given an intense makeover, making it one of the old city’s most glittering temples. Marooned in the middle of Th Inthwarorot, its gilded teak wí·hăhn is one of the most perfectly proportioned monuments in the city.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Old City Museums
Modern and providing an excellent introduction to the former Lanna kingdom’s culture and history, these historical showcases are conveniently clustered in renovated colonial-style government buildings.
Great For
yDon’t Miss
A string of shops on Th Inthawarorot, near the museums, sells Thai sweets and other local dishes. It’s packed with workers at lunchtime.
8Need to Know
The museums are closed on Monday. They have a central location within walking distance to most old city accommodation.
5Take a Break
Get a massage and help inmates learn work skills at the Vocational Training Center of the Chiang Mai Women’s Correctional Institution.
oTop Tip
Combination tickets (180B) gain entry to all three museums.
Just when you think you’ve got this country figured out, you land in a place like Chiang Mai and discover a whole new regional identity. Thankfully these museums explain the unique aspects of the Lanna kingdom, a closer cousin to southern China and Myanmar than Bangkok.
Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre
The Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre ( หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมเชียงใหม่ ; www.cmocity.com; Th Phra Pokklao; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) provides an excellent primer on Chiang Mai history. Dioramas, photos, artefacts and audiovisual displays walk visitors through the key battles and victories in the Chiang Mai story, from the first settlements to wars with Myanmar and to the arrival of the railroad. Upstairs is a charming re-creation of a wooden Lanna village.
The museum gift shop is exceptionally well stocked with lacquerware, jewellery and even decorative fingernails for the Thai traditional dance. The building previously housed the provincial hall and is a handsomely restored Thai-colonial-style building dating from 1927. Restoration of the building was recognised by the Royal Society of Siamese Architects in 1999.
Lanna Folklife Museum
A real gem, the Lanna Folklife Museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑ์พื้นถิ่นล้านนา ; Th Phra Pokklao; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) is set inside the former 1935 provincial court and re-creates Lanna village life in a series of life-sized dioramas that explain everything from lai·krahm stencilling and fon lep (traditional Lanna dance) to the intricate symbolism of different elements of Lanna-style temples. Each room is designed like an art installation with engaging lessons on cultural titbits. You’ll leave knowing a little more Lanna than before.
Chiang Mai Historical Centre
Housed in an airy building, this museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP หอประวัติศาสตร์เมืองเชียงใหม่ ; Th Ratwithi; adult/child 90/40B; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) covers the history of Chiang Mai Province, with displays on the founding of the capital, the Burmese occupation and the modern era of trade and unification with Bangkok. Downstairs is an archaeological dig of an ancient temple wall. There is a bit of overlap between the Chiang Mai City Arts & Culture Centre but sometimes an air-conditioned building is all one really needs.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Evening Shopping
The evening market is a popular fixture across Thailand but Chiang Mai invented the ‘walking street’, which transforms streets into a pedestrian zone for itinerant vendors, a tradition that dates back to the Silk Road days.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Local vendors selling refreshing ice cream, advertised as ‘ancient’ ice cream, at the walking streets.
8Need to Know
The walking streets and the night market get under way in the late afternoon and continue to midnight.
5Take a Break
Grab dinner at Talat Pratu Chiang Mai (MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Bamrungburi; mains from 40B; h4am-noon & 6pm-midnight) before hitting the Saturday Walking Street.
oTop Tip
Remember to stand respectfully when the national anthem is played at 6pm.
Saturday Walking Street
The Saturday Walking Street (MAP GOOGLE MAP ถนนเดินวันเสาร์ ; Th Wualai; h4pm-midnight Sat) takes over Th Wualai, running southwest from Pratu Chiang Mai at the southern entrance to the old city. There is barely space to move as locals and tourists haggle for carved soaps, novelty dog collars, woodcarvings, Buddha paintings, hill-tribe trinkets and more.
The market unfolds along the city’s historic silversmithing neighbourhood. Come early enough and you can see the craftspeople tapping out a rhythm as they impress decorative patterns into bowls, jewellery boxes and decorative plaques made from silver or, more often, aluminium.
Sunday Walking Street
Th Ratchadamnoen is taken over by the boisterous Sunday Walking Street (MAP GOOGLE MAP ถนนเดินวันอาทิตย์ ; Th Ratchadamnoen; h4pm-midnight Sun), which feels even more animated than the Saturday Walking Street because of the energetic food markets that open up temple courtyards along the route. There’s not a lot of breathing room as crowds slowly pass stalls selling woodcarvings, Buddha paintings, hill-tribe trinkets, Thai musical instruments, T-shirts, paper lanterns and umbrellas, silver jewellery and herbal remedies.
The market is a major source of income for local families and many traders spend the whole week hand-making merchandise to sell on Saturday and Sunday.
Chiang Mai Night Bazaar
You don’t have to wait for a weekend to scratch your shopping itch. The Chiang Mai Night Bazaar (MAP GOOGLE MAPTh Chang Khlan; h7pm-midnight) is one of the city’s main night-time attractions and is the modern legacy of the original Yunnanese trading caravans that stopped here along the ancient trade route between China and Myanmar’s Gulf of Martaban coast.
The night bazaar sells the usual tourist souvenirs. In true market fashion, vendors form a gauntlet along the footpath of Th Chang Khlan from Th Tha Phae to Th Loi Kroh. In between are dedicated shopping buildings: the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar Building is filled mainly with antique and handicraft stores. Across the street is the Kalare Night Bazaar selling upmarket clothes and home decor.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Outdoor Activities
Outdoor escapes are easy in Chiang Mai thanks to nearby looming mountains, rushing rivers, hill-tribe villages and elephant sanctuaries and camps. Dozens of operators offer adventure tours on foot, bike, raft and zipline.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Chiang Mai’s climate quickly transitions from the tropical plains to fern-filled mountain forests.
8Need to Know
Most tours travel about an hour outside of the city for full- and half-day tours. Trips usually include hotel transfer and lunch.
5Take a Break
After a sweaty adventure, reward yourself with a massage at Lila Thai Massage (MAP GOOGLE MAP 
% 053 327243; www.chiangmaimassage.com; Th Ratchadamnoen; standard/herbal massage from 200/350B; h10am-10pm).
oTop Tip
Book your tickets directly with the tour operator to cut out agent commission charges.
Trekking & Outdoor Adventuring
Thousands of visitors trek into the hills of northern Thailand hoping for adventure. Recommended companies include Green Trails ( % 053 141356; www.green-trails.com; treks for 2 people from 2900B), which has a strong environmental ethos, and Peak Adventure Tour ( % 053 800567; www.thepeakadventure.com; 302/4 Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun; tours 1600-2800B), for soft-adventure. Everyone loves Flight of the Gibbon, a nearly 2km zipline course through the forest.
Elephant Parks
Elephant camps can look a lot like a prison but Chiang Mai has many humane alternatives.
The Elephant Nature Park (MAP GOOGLE MAP % 053 818754, 053 272850; www.elephantnaturepark.org; 1 Th Ratchamankha; 1-/2-day tours 2500/5800B) 
S provides a semi-wild state where visitors observe the natural interactions of elephants, while Thai Elephant Care Center ( % 053 206247; www.thaielephantcarecenter.com; Mae Sa; half-/full day 2000/3000B) was set up to provide care for elderly elephants retired from logging camps and elephant shows; there are no rides and visitors feed the old-timers and help out at bath time.
Bicycling
The city’s closest green space, Doi Suthep, has mountain-biking trails traversed by Chiang Mai Mountain Biking & Kayaking (MAP GOOGLE MAP % 053 814207; www.mountainbikingchiangmai.com; 1 Th Samlan; tours 1250-2700B; h8am-8pm). Click and Travel ( % 053 281553; www.chiangmaicycling.com; half-/full/multi-day tours from 950/1500/5350B; 
c ) cycles through cultural sights outside the city centre.
Water Sports
White-water rafting takes on the wild and frothy part of Mae Taeng (best from July to March). Siam River Adventures (MAP GOOGLE MAP %089 515 1917; www.siamrivers.com; 17 Th Ratwithi; rafting per day from 1800B; h8am-8pm) has well-regarded safety standards for the 10km stretch. Chiang Mai Mountain Biking & Kayaking paddles down a remote part of Mae Ping.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Thanon Nimmanhaemin
The epicentre of ‘new’ Chiang Mai, Th Nimmanhaemin is the place to wine, dine and stay up all night (or at least until closing time). The main road and its tributary soi are frequented by hip uni students and NGO expats.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The food stalls near Soi 10 sell fried chicken, cut fruit and noodle dishes. Simple is amazing in Thailand.
8Need to Know
Th Nimmanhaemin is accessible by rót daang (‘red car’) travelling along Th Huay Kaew.
5Take a Break
Ristr8to treats coffee like wine, complete with tasting notes.
oTop Tip
The soi branching off Th Nimmanhaemin don’t have sidewalks so be careful as a pedestrian.
Dining
There is a bewildering array of food to be found on Nimmanhaemin.
Tong Tem Toh (MAP GOOGLE MAP Soi 13, Th Nimmamnhaemin; mains 50-170B; h11am-9pm) is set in an old teak house and serves northern Thai cuisine, such as nám prík ong (a chilli dip with vegetables for dipping) and gaang hang lay (Burmese-style pork curry with peanut and tamarind).
Need a break from Thai? Tengoku (MAP GOOGLE MAP % 053 215801; Soi 5, Th Nimmanhaemin; mains 200-1650B; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; 
W ) serves superior sushi, yakitori, spectacular sukiyaki and wonderful wagyu steaks, plus cheaper bento boxes.
The farm-to-table dishes at Rustic & Blue (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 216420; www.rusticandblue.com; Soi 7, Th Nimmanhaemin; mains 180-360B; h8.30am-9.30pm; 
aW) are in perfect harmony with the decor. And Italics (MAP GOOGLE MAP %05 321 6219; www.theakyra.com; 22/2 Nimmana Haeminda Soi 9; pizzas 260-550B; h7am-11pm) does some of the best pizzas in town.
Ice cream with star power, I-Berry (MAP GOOGLE MAP off Soi 17, Th Nimmanhaemin; single scoop 69B; h10am-10pm; W) is owned by Thai comedian Udom Taepanich (nicknamed ‘Nose’ for his signature feature). This kitschy shop in a leafy garden is mobbed day and night.
Drinking & Nightlife
Nimman draws in an eclectic crowd of night owls, from rowdy uni students to Thai yuppies and in-the-know foreigners.
Check out the urban tribe at Sangdee Gallery (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.sangdeeart.com; 5 Soi 5, Th Sirimungklajarn; h3pm-midnight Tue-Sat), part gallery, music club, bar and cafe.
The trendy spots change but the formula stays the same: beer garden venues with brews, food and friends. The more people who can pack in, the merrier. The most impressive (and long-standing) of the lot, Beer RepublicMAP GOOGLE MAP (www.beerrepublicchiangmai.com; Soi 11, Th Nimmanhaemin; h4pm-midnight) offers 15 draught beers.
Warmup Cafe (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.facebook.com/warmupcafe1999; 40 Th Nimmanhaemin; h6pm-2am) is a Nimman club survivor, rocking out since 1999. Each room does a different music genre: hip-hop, electronica and rock.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Doi Suthep
Switchback roads leave behind the lowland plains and you ascend into a cool cloud belt filled with mosses and ferns. The mountain shelters a national park, holy temple, royal palace and hill-tribe villages.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The spectacular views of Chiang Mai from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
8Need to Know
Public rót daang (‘red car’) leave from the zoo for Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (40B per passenger). A charter ride will cost 300/500B one-way/return.
5
Take a Break
Ban Khun Chang Kian has a small coffee shop overlooking its coffee plants.
oTop Tip
Bring a long-sleeved shirt because it can be cool on the mountain.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Overlooking the city from its mountain throne, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ; Th Huay Kaew; 30B; h6am-6pm) is one of northern Thailand’s most sacred temples, and its founding legend is learned by every school kid in Chiang Mai. The wát itself is a beautiful example of northern Thai architecture, reached via a strenuous, 306-step staircase flanked by mosaic naga (serpents); the climb is intended to help devotees accrue Buddhist merit, but less energetic pilgrims can take a funicular lift (20B).
The monastery was established in 1383 by King Keu Naone to enshrine a piece of bone, said to be from the shoulder of the historical Buddha. The bone shard was brought to Lanna by a wandering monk from Sukhothai and it broke into two pieces at the base of the mountain, with one piece being enshrined at Wat Suan Dok. The second fragment was mounted onto a sacred white elephant who wandered the jungle until it died, in the process selecting the spot where the monastery was later founded.
The terrace at the top of the steps is dotted with small shrines, rock gardens and a statue of the white elephant that carried the Buddha relic. Before entering the inner courtyard, children pay their respects to a lizard-like guardian statue known as ‘Mom’.
Steps lead up to the inner terrace, where a walkway circumnavigates the gleaming golden chedi enshrining the relic. The crowning five-tiered umbrella marks the city’s independence from Myanmar and its union with Thailand. Pilgrims queue to leave lotus blossoms and other offerings at the shrines surrounding the chedi.
Bhubing Palace
Above Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the grounds of the royal family’s winter palace (พระตำหนักภูพิงค์, Phra Tamnak Bhu Bing; www.bhubingpalace.org; Th Huay Kaew; 50B; h8.30-11.30am & 1-3.30pm) are open to the public. Thanks to the mountain’s cool climate, the royal gardeners are able to raise ‘exotic’ species such as roses. More interesting is the reservoir, brought to life by fountains that dance to the king’s own musical compositions.
Ban Kun Chang Kian
Ban Kun Chang Kian is a Hmong coffee-producing village about 500m down a dirt track just past the Doi Pui campground. You’ll need private tranpsort to reach the village.
Central Chiang Mai
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
7Shopping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Talat WarorotMarket
(MAP GOOGLE MAP ตลาดวโรรส; cnr Th Chang Moi & Th Praisani; h6am-5pm)
Chiang Mai’s oldest public market, Warorot (also spelt Waroros) is a great place to connect with the city’s Thai soul. Alongside souvenir vendors you’ll find numerous stalls selling items for ordinary Thai households: woks, toys, fishing nets, pickled tea leaves, wigs, sticky-rice steamers, Thai-style sausages, kâab mŏo (pork rinds), live catfish and tiny statues for spirit houses.
Wat SrisuphanBuddhist Temple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดศรีสุพรรณ; Soi 2, Th Wualai; donations appreciated; h6am-6pm)
It should come as no surprise that the silversmiths along Th Wualai have decorated their patron monastery with the same fine artisanship shown in their shops. The ‘silver’ ubosot (ordination hall) is covered with silver, nickel and aluminium panels, embossed with elaborate repoussé-work designs. The effect is like a giant jewellery box, particularly after dark, when the monastery is illuminated by coloured lights.
Wat Suan DokBuddhist Temple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดสวนดอก; Th Suthep; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours)
Built on a former flower garden in 1373, this important monastery enshrines one half of a sacred Buddha relic; the other half was transported by white elephant to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The main chedi is a gilded, bell-shaped structure that rises above a sea of white memorial chedi honouring the Thai royal family, with the ridge of Doi Suthep soaring behind.
Lanna Architecture CenterMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP ศูนย์สถาปัตยกรรมล้านนา; www.lanna-arch.net; 117 Th Ratchadamnoen; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 
F
Formerly owned by prince Jao Maha In, this handsome mansion, built in a hybrid Lanna and European style between 1889 and 1893, houses a small education centre with some interesting models showing the changing face of Lanna architecture through the centuries.
Art in ParadiseMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑ์ อาร์ต อิน พาราไดซ์ เชียงใหม่; www.chiangmai-artinparadise.com; 199/9 Th Chang Khlan; 400B; h9am-7pm)
Just a whole lot of fun, this museum has a range of 3D optical illusion art displays from cliff faces and mummy tombs to tiny chairs and giant toilet paper rolls where you can get in the scene, snap photos and just be silly. Kids in particular will enjoy it but adults often love it too.
2Activities
Vocational Training Centre of the Chiang Mai Women’s Correctional InstitutionMassage
MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 122340; 100 Th Ratwithi; massage from 200B;h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Offers fantastic massages performed by female inmates participating in the prison’s job-training rehabilitation program. The cafe next door is a nice spot for a post-massage brew.
Zira SpaSpa
(%053 222288; www.ziraspa.com; 8/1 Th Rajvithi; treatments 700-6000B; h10am-10pm)
Located on one of the main streets in the centre of Chiang Mai, Zira Spa offers some of the best spa treatments and massages in the region, all for a decent price. You need to book in advance for the larger spa packages, but same-day service is available for one or two of the 30-, 60- or 90-minute treatments.
Doi Suthep Vipassana Meditation CenterHealth & Wellbeing
(%053 295012; www.fivethousandyears.org; Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Th Huay Kaew; by donation)
Set within the grounds of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, this centre offers meditation training retreats for all levels, lasting from four to 21 days.
Lanna Muay Thai Boxing CampMartial Arts
(%053 892102; 161 Soi Chang Khian, Th Huay Kaew; day/week/month 400/2200/8000B)
Offers instruction to foreigners and Thais. The gym is famous for having trained the title-winning, transgender boxer Parinya Kiatbusaba.
Flight of the GibbonZiplining
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 010660; www.treetopasia.com; 29/4-5 Th Kotchasan; day tours 4000B; h9.30am-6.30pm)
Much copied but never equalled, this adventure outfit started the zipline craze, with nearly 5km of wire strung up like spiderwebs in the gibbon-populated (you may see some) forest canopy near Ban Mae Kampong, an hour’s drive east from Chiang Mai. The day-tour includes an optional but highly recommended village visit, waterfall walk and delicious lunch cooked by the community. As well as day trips, it offers multiday, multiactivity tours that include a night at a village homestay.
Cooking Courses in Chiang Mai
Small House Chiang Mai Thai Cooking School (MAP GOOGLE MAP % 095 674 4550; www.chiangmaithaicooking.com; 19/14 Th Thipanet; 1-day/evening-only classes 1500/1300B)
Thai Farm Cooking School (MAP GOOGLE MAP %081 288 5989; www.thaifarmcooking.com; 38 Soi 9, Th Moon Muang; courses 1500B)
Asia Scenic Thai Cooking (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 418657; www.asiascenic.com; 31 Soi 5, Th Ratchadamnoen; half-day courses 800-1000B, full-day courses 1000-1200B; hhalf-day courses 9am-1pm & 5-9pm, full-day courses 9am-3pm)
TTours
Chiang Mai on Three WheelsTours
(www.chiangmaionthreewheels.com; Don Kaeo, Saraphi; 4hr tours for 2 people 1700B) 
S
There are few better ways to tour Chiang Mai than by slow, quiet, culturally immersive săhm·lór (three-wheel pedicabs; also spelt sǎamláw). This organisation helps promote this dying industry by connecting tourists with the often non-English-speaking drivers and pairs you with an English-speaking guide. Profits go entirely to the drivers and to support their industry.
Scorpion Tailed River CruiseBoating
(MAP GOOGLE MAP % 081 960 9398; www.scorpiontailedrivercruise.com; Th Charoenrat; cruises 500B)
This river cruise focuses on the history of Mae Ping using traditional-style craft, known as scorpion-tailed boats. Informative cruises (five daily) last one to 1½ hours. They depart from Wat Srikhong pier near Rim Ping Condo and stop for a snack at the affiliated Scorpion Tailed Boat Village.
7Shopping
7Old City
Mengrai KilnsCeramics
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.mengraikilns.com; 79/2 Th Arak; h8am-5pm)
In the southwestern corner of the old city, Mengrai Kilns keeps the tradition of Thai celadon pottery alive, with cookware, dining sets, ornaments and Western-style nativity scenes.
HQ Paper MakerArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.hqpapermaker.com; 3/31 Th Samlan; h9am-6pm)
This intriguing shop sells reams of handmade mulberry paper (săh), in a remarkable range of colours and patterns, including gorgeous marbled sheets that resemble the end leaves of bound 19th-century books. Ask about its low-key, three-hour paper-making course for 800B per person.
7East of the Old City
John GalleryArt
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Tha Phae; hdaily but variable)
Opened in 1980, this place is a warren of paintings on cotton, cards and rocks, often inscribed with feel-good or creative quotes. Between John’s art are dusty hill tribe embroidery, ancient opium farming tools and even a ‘witch doctor’ recipe book or two. Be sure to head upstairs for views of the crumbling chedi out back.
KukWan GalleryClothing
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 37 Th Loi Kroh; h10am-7pm)
Set slightly back from the road, this charming little shop sells scarves, runners, bedspreads and natural cotton and silk by the metre.
Sop Moei ArtsClothing, Handicrafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.sopmoeiarts.com; 150/10 Th Charoenrat/Th Faham; h9am-6pm)
High-end hill-tribe crafts, from off-the-loom textiles to baskets, are sold at this economic-development shop, which provides assistance for Karen villagers in Mae Hong Son Province.
Thai Tribal Crafts Fair TradeArts & Crafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.ttcrafts.co.th; 25/9 Th Moon Muang; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
A branch of the missionary-backed fair-trade store (208 Th Bamrungrat; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat), selling fine hill-tribe needlework and baskets.
7West of the Old City
Studio NaennaClothing, Homewares
(www.studio-naenna.com; 138/8 Soi Chang Khian; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, plus Sat Oct-Mar only)
The colours of the mountains have been woven into the naturally dyed silks and cottons here, part of a project to preserve traditional weaving and embroidery. You can see the whole production process at this workshop.
SrisanpanmaiFashion & Accessories
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 6 Soi 1, Th Nimmanhaemin; h10am-6.30pm)
The display cases here are like a library of Lanna textiles, with reams of silk and cotton shawls, scarves and hill-tribe costumes. You’re guaranteed to find something to surprise the folks at home.
Hill-Tribe Products Promotion CentreClothing, Handicrafts
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 21/17 Th Suthep; h9am-5pm)
Hill-tribe textiles, bags, boxes, lacquerware and other crafts are sold at this large store near Wat Suan Dok; profits go to hill-tribe welfare programs.
5Eating
5Old City
SP ChickenThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 9/1 Soi 1, Th Samlan; mains 50-170B; h11am-9pm)
Chiang Mai’s best chicken emerges daily from the broilers at this tiny cafe near Wat Phra Singh. The menu runs to salads and soups, but most people just pick a half (90B) or whole (170B) chicken, and dip the moist meat into the spicy, tangy dipping sauces provided.
Mit MaiChinese$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Ratchamankha; mains 60-900B; h10am-10pm)
If you didn’t make it to northern Thailand’s mountaintop Chinese outposts, this decades-old restaurant is the place to go for Yunnanese specialities. Just about anything flash-fried is tasty, and you can’t go wrong with the air-dried Yunnanese ham. There’s no roman-script sign, but it’s adjacent to Wat Pha Khao (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดผ้าขาว ; Th Ratchmankha; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours).
Kiat OchaChinese, Thai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Inthawarorot; mains 50-90B; h6am-3pm)
This humble Chinese-style canteen is mobbed daily by locals who can’t get enough of the kôw man gài (Hainanese-style boiled chicken). Each plate comes with soup, chilli sauce and blood pudding and the menu also includes wok-fried chicken and pork and sà·đé (grilled skewers of pork or chicken). There’s no English sign but you’ll know it when you see it.
Lert RosThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Soi 1, Th Ratchadamnoen; mains 30-160B; hnoon-9pm)
As you enter this local-style hole in the wall, you’ll pass the main course: delicious whole tilapia fish, grilled on coals and served with a fiery Isan-style dipping sauce. Eaten with sticky rice, this is one of the great meals of Chiang Mai. The menu also includes fermented pork grilled in banana leaves, curries and sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad).
Blue DiamondVegetarian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 35/1 Soi 9, Th Moon Muang; mains 65-220B; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
v )
Blue Diamond offers an adventurous menu of sandwiches, salads, curries, stir-fries and curious fusion dishes such as đôm yam (Thai-style sour soup) macaroni. Packed with fresh produce, prepackaged spice and herb mixes, and freshly baked treats, it also feels a little like a wholefood store.
5East of the Old City
Kao Soi Fueng FahThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Soi 1, Th Charoen Phrathet; mains 40-60B; h7am-9pm)
The most flavourful of the Muslim-run kôw soy (wheat-and-egg noodles in a curry broth) vendors along Halal St, with the choice of beef or chicken with your noodles.
HideoutBreakfast$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Sithiwongse; breakfasts 55-160B; h8am-5pm closed Mon; 
p)
Hidden but found by expats looking for Western breakfast and coffee a cut above the rest, this place takes great care to serve perfectly cooked eggs, bacon fried to order, house-made muesli and yoghurt, creative sandwiches on fresh bread and the best banana bread we’ve eaten in Southeast Asia. The coffee is amazing too. Seating is very limited so arrive early for a table.
Service 1921Southeast Asian$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP % 053 253333; www.chiang-mai.anantara.com; Anantara Resort, 123 Th Charoen Prathet; mains 290-2000B; h6am-11pm)
The pan-Asian restaurant at the Anantara Resort & Spa is elegance incarnate, with waitstaff in full 1920s garb and interior decor resembling the secret offices of MI6 – appropriate as the gorgeous teak villa housing the restaurant used to be the British Consulate. The food is made with top-notch ingredients, though some dishes have the spice dialled down to appeal to international palates.
The hotel also has an international restaurant in a similarly romantic location overlooking the river.
Chiang Mai’s Cafe Scene
Chiang Mai adores coffee. Much of it is grown locally as a replacement crop for opium. Here are some top spots for a brew:
Akha Ama Cafe (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.akhaama.com; 175/1 Th Ratchadamnoen; h8am-6pm; W ) Locally harvested, sustainable, direct-trade beans from the jungles north of Chiang Mai.
Ristr8to (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.ristr8to.com; Th Nimmanhaemin; espresso drinks 88B; h8.30am-7pm, closed Tue) From flat whites to the hyper-caffeinated doppio ristretto that uses 18g of ground coffee.
Raming Tea House (MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Tha Phae; drinks 50-120B; h8.30am-5.30pm) Victorian-era cafe serving Thai mountain teas.
5West of the Old City
Pun PunVegetarian$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.punpunthailand.org; Wat Suan Dok, Th Suthep; mains 40-85B; h8am-4pm Thu-Tue; v ) S
Tucked away at the back of Wat Suan Dok, this studenty cafe is a great place to sample Thai vegetarian food prepared using little-known herbs and vegetables and lots of healthy whole grains grown on its concept farm, which doubles as an education centre for sustainable living.
There’s a branch called Imm Aim Vegetarian Restaurant (MAP GOOGLE MAP 10 Th Santhitham; mains 45-90B; h10am-9pm; v ) S near the International Hotel Chiangmai.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Good ViewBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.goodview.co.th; 13 Th Charoenrat/Th Faham; h10am-2am)
Good View attracts plenty of locals, with a big menu of Thai standards and sushi platters (mains 100B to 250B) and a nightly program of bands with rotating line-ups (meaning the drummer starts playing guitar and the bass player moves behind the piano).
Kafe 1985Bar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 127/3 Th Moon Muang; h8.30am-midnight, closed Thu)
Open since 1985, Kafe is nonetheless a timeless place to sip a Singha and dig into classic Thai-style drinking snacks (mains 60B to 150B) such as deep-fried fermented pork ribs.
Zoe in YellowBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 40/12 Th Ratwithi; h11am-2am)
Part of a complex of open-air bars at the corner of Th Ratchaphakhinai and Th Ratwithi, Zoe is where backpackers come to sink pitchers of cold Chang, sip cocktails from buckets, rock out to cheesy dance-floor fillers, canoodle and swap travel stories until the wee hours. There’s also a few Indian food places between the bar joints.
MixologyBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 61/6 Th Arak; h3pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat & Sun)
A tiny, eclectic bar with a huge selection of microbrews, a thick menu of fruity house drinks, burgers and northern Thai eats, and a lounging dog. Even if you drink too many chilli-infused ‘prick me ups’, you probably won’t regret it the next day.
Khun Kae’s Juice BarJuice Bar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Soi 7, Th Moon Muang; h10.30am-7.30pm)
Our vote for Chiang Mai’s best juice shack. Tonnes of fresh fruit, heaps of delicious combinations, generous serves and all this for prices that are almost comically low (drinks from 40B).
3Entertainment
North Gate Jazz Co-OpLive Music
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.facebook.com/northgate.jazzcoop; 95/1-2 Th Si Phum; h7-11pm)
This compact jazz club tends to pack in more musicians than patrons, but the music can be pretty hip.
InterLive Music
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 271 Th Tha Phae; h4pm-1am)
This small wooden house packs in a lively line-up of local talent. It has that beach-shack vibe beloved by travellers everywhere and a popular pool table – though we recommend against challenging the multiple-trophy-winning lady who owns the place!
8Information
Traffic is annoying; during rush hour, expect long waits at traffic lights. Take care when crossing busy roads; drivers don’t give way. In March and April, smoky haze from farmers burning off their fields causes poor air quality. But, otherwise, compared to Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a breeze.
Chiang Mai Ram Hospital ( % 053 920300; www.chiangmairam.com; 8 Th Bunreuangrit) The most modern hospital in town.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; % 053 248604; www.tourismthailand.org; Th Chiang Mai-Lamphun; h8.30am-4.30pm) English-speaking staff provide maps, and advice on travel across Thailand.
Tourist Police (%053 247318, 24hr emergency 1155; 608 Rimping Plaza, Th Charoenraj; h6am-midnight) Volunteer staff speak a variety of languages.
Mae Sa Valley
Just north of the city is Mae Sa Valley and a 100km loop that winds through fantastic high-altitude scenery. It is a beautiful ride, often done on hired motorcycles.
The first stop is Nam Tok Mae Sa ( น้ําตกแม่สา ; adult/child 100/50B, car 30B; h8am-4.30pm), a chain of cascades set in the fringes of Doi Suthep-Pui National Park on Rte 1096. Further on, Queen Sirikit Botanic Gardens ( สวนพฤกษศาสตร์สมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ; www.qsbg.org; Rte 1096; adult/child 100/50B, car/motorcycle 100/30B; h8.30am-4.30pm) has gardens and greenhouses full of exotic and local flora. The road eventually climbs into a high-altitude basin, once a centre for opium poppy production. With sponsorship from the Thai royal family, local hill-tribe farmers reseeded their terraced fields with vegetables, fruits and flowers, processed under the Doi Kham label. The Mon Cham restaurant (Nong Hoi Mai; mains 60-180B; h7am-7pm; v ), teetering on a ridge top, cooks up tasty dishes. From the main road, turn off at Ban Pong Yaeng to the Hmong village of Nong Hoi. Above the village, you’ll find the restaurant.
The rest of the route swings around the mountain ridge, passing spectacular viewpoints, and then begins its descent into Chiang Mai via Rte 1269 to Rte 121.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Domestic and international flights arrive and depart from Chiang Mai International Airport ( % 05 327 0222; www.chiangmaiairportthai.com), 3km southwest of the old city.
Bus
The Arcade Bus Terminal (Th Kaew Nawarat), about 3km from the old city, is Chiang Mai’s long-distance station.
Train
Run by the State Railway of Thailand, the Chiang Mai Train Station ( % 053 245363, nationwide 1690; Th Charoen Muang) is about 2.5km east of the old city. The train station has an ATM, a left-luggage room (5am to 8.45pm, 20B per item) and an advance-booking counter (you’ll need your passport to book a ticket).
8Getting Around
Motorcycles cost 150B to 500B to hire. Thai Rent a Car (% 053 904188; www.thairentacar.com; Chiang Mai International Airport) has a good reputation for car hire. Roét daang (literally ‘red cars’) operate as shared taxis and roam the streets picking up passengers heading in the same direction. Journeys start at 20B for a short trip and 40B for a longer trip. Tuék tuék and roét daang can be chartered; negotiate a price beforehand.
iWhere to Stay
Make reservations far in advance if visiting during Chinese New Year, Songkran and other holiday periods.
| Neighbourhood | Atmosphere |
|---|---|
| Old City | Close to sights, old-school Chiang Mai feel, international dining and bars; lots of touts and tourists |
| East of the Old City | Lots of budget and midrange options, easy access to markets; noisy and hectic, sexpat hang-outs |
| West of the Old City | Less touristy, easy access to dining and nightlife; far from sights |
| Riverside | Lots of midrange and top-end options; lack of dining and entertainment, far from sights |