Chiang Rai
Minority Cultures
Day Trips from Chiang Rai
Sights
Activities
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Information
Chiang Rai at a Glance…
Rising from the fertile plains to a rugged mountain range, Thailand’s northernmost province, Chiang Rai, belts the border between Southeast Asia and China. The charming provincial capital of Chiang Rai is used as a base to explore this intersection of cultures and dramatic mountain scenery. The province is home to many minority hill tribes, Shan and other Tai groups, and more recently Chinese immigrants, all struggling to maintain their cultural identity and traditional lifestyle in the modern age.
Chiang Rai in Two Days
Dip into local culture at Mae Fah Luang Art & Culture Park. Devote the evening to shopping at the Walking Street. The next day visit Wat Rong Khun and enjoy dinner at Lung Eed.
Chiang Rai in Four Days
Head out of town for a multiday trek, the proceeds of which go to aid local hill-tribe villages with infrastructure and education projects. Or do an overnight trip to Doi Mae Salong, an ethnic Chinese village that balances on a mountain ridge cultivated with tea plantations.
Arriving in Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai International Airport Located approximately 8km north of the city. Taxis make the run into town.
Bus station Located 5km away from ‘downtown’ Chiang Rai. Frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up minibuses) link it with town from 6am to 5.30pm.
Interprovincial bus station Located right in the centre of town.
Sleeping
Chiang Rai has a great selection of places to stay, and price increases have been incremental over recent years, making accommodation in town good value. Most budget places are in the centre, clustered around Th Jetyod; the majority of midrange places are a brief walk from ‘downtown’. Chiang Rai’s upscale accommodation is generally located outside the centre of town in country-style resorts.
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Minority Cultures
Thailand’s ethnic minorities who inhabit the mountainous region of Chiang Rai Province are often called ‘hill tribes’, or chow kŏw (mountain people). Hill-tribe villages host trekking groups from the provincial capital to showcase their unique culture.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Sharing a meal with a village family is a treasured cultural exchange.
8 Need to Know
Two-day treks range from 2300B to 6000B and include meals, jungle walking, overnight village accommodation and hotel transfer.
5
Take a Break
Once you return to Chiang Rai, relax at one of the city’s cafes, such as BaanChivitMai Bakery.
oTop Tip
Ask your guide about the village’s dos and don’ts so that you’re a respectful guest.
Hill-Tribe History
Most of the hill-tribe communities are of semi-nomadic origin, having come from Tibet, Myanmar, China and Laos during the past 200 years or so. The Tribal Research Institute in Chiang Mai recognises 10 different hill tribes, but there may be up to 20. Hill tribes are increasingly integrating into the Thai mainstream and many of the old ways and traditional customs are disappearing.
Hilltribe Museum
This museum and education centre (MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑ์และศูนย์การศึกษาชาวเขา ; www.pdacr.org; 3rd fl, 620/25 Th Thanalai; 50B; 
h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) is a good place to visit before undertaking any hill-tribe trek. Run by the nonprofit Population & Community Development Association (PDA), the displays are a bit dated, but contain a wealth of information.
A visit begins with a 20-minute slide show on Thailand’s hill tribes, followed by self-guided exploration through exhibits on traditional clothing, tools and implements, and other anthropological objects. The curator is passionate about his museum and, if present, will talk about the different hill tribes and the community projects that the museum funds. The PDA also run highly recommended treks.
Trekking
Nearly every guesthouse and hotel in Chiang Rai offers hill-tribe hiking excursions. The following have a grassroots, sustainable or nonprofit emphasis:
o Rai Pian Karuna (
%062 246 1897; www.facebook.com/raipiankaruna) A new, community-based enterprise conducting one- and multiday treks and homestays at Akha, Lahu and Lua villages in Mae Chan, north of Chiang Rai.
o PDA Tours & Travel (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 740088; Hilltribe Museum & Education Center, 3rd fl, 620/25 Th Thanalai; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) A well-established NGO offering one- to three-day treks. Profits go back into community projects such as HIV/AIDS education, mobile health clinics, education scholarships and the establishment of village-owned banks.
o Mirror Foundation (%053 737616; www.thailandecotour.org) Higher rates than most but this NGO helps support the training of its local guides. Treks range from one to three days and traverse the Akha, Karen and Lahu villages of Mae Yao District, north of Chiang Rai.
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Day Trips from Chiang Rai
Dabble in the bizarre and the foreign with these day trips. Wat Rong Khun is an elaborate and fantastic hybrid of modern and religious art, while Doi Mae Salong is a sleepy ethnic Chinese village perched on a mountain spine.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Strawberries and other more familiar fruits can grow in the cooler, northern climate. Pick up from roadside stands.
8 Need to Know
These attractions are accessible via local transport from Chiang Rai’s bus station.
5 Take a Break
In Doi Mae Salong, enjoy the local tea and Chinese dishes at Sue Hai.
oTop Tip
Bus rides are a great way to see local life. Enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
Wat Rong Khun
Looking like a supersized confection, Wat Rong Khun (วัดร่องขุ่น , White Temple; off Rte 1/AH2; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun) 
F is Thailand’s most eclectic and avant-garde temple. It was built in 1997 by noted Thai painter turned architect Chalermchai Kositpipat and mixes modern motifs and pop-culture references with traditional religious iconography.
The exterior of the temple is covered in whitewash and clear-mirrored chips. Walk over a bridge and sculpture of reaching arms (symbolising desire) to enter the sanctity of the wát where the artist has painted contemporary scenes representing samsara (the realm of rebirth and delusion). Images such as a plane smashing into the Twin Towers and, oddly enough, Keanu Reeves as Neo from The Matrix dominate the one wall. If you like what you see, an adjacent gallery sells reproductions of Chalermchai Kositpipat’s rather New Age–looking works.
The temple is 13km south of Chiang Rai. Take a regular bus bound for Chiang Mai or Phayao and ask to get off at Wat Rong Khun.
Baandam
The bizarre brainchild of Thai National Artist Thawan Duchanee, and a rather sinister counterpoint to Wat Rong Khun, Baandam (บ้านดำ , Black House; off Rte 1/AH2; adult/child 80B/free; h9am-5pm) unites several structures, most of which are stained black and ominously decked out with animal pelts and bones.
The centrepiece is a black, cavernous, temple-like building holding a long wooden dining table and chairs made from deer antlers – a virtual Satan’s dining room. Other buildings include white, breast-shaped bedrooms, dark phallus-decked bathrooms, and a bone- and fur-lined ‘chapel’. The structures have undeniably discernible northern Thai influences, but the dark tones, flagrant flourishes and all those dead animals coalesce in a way that is more fantasy than reality.
It’s located 13km north of Chiang Rai in Nang Lae; any Mae Sai–bound bus will drop you off here for around 20B.
Ban Ruam Mit & Around
Ruam Mit means ‘mixed’, an accurate description of this riverside village, a convenient jumping-off point for the surrounding hilly area that’s home to ethnic groups including Thai, Karen, Lisu and Akha.
Most visitors come to Ban Ruam Mit to ride elephants (which we don’t recommend as it’s been proven to be harmful to the animals). But a better, not to mention more sustainable, reason is hiking among the surrounding area’s numerous villages and to visit Pha Soet Hot Spring (บ่อน้ำพุร้อนผาเสริฐ ; Ban Pha Soet; adult/child 30/10B; h8am-6pm) or Lamnamkok National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติลำน้ำกก ; h8am-4.30pm).
There are a couple of riverside Thai-style ‘resort’ hotels in Ban Ruam Mit. Alternatively, both basic hotels and homestay-style accommodation can be found in the surrounding villages. One of the best options is Bamboo Nest de Chiang Rai (%095 686 4755, 089 953 2330; www.bamboonest-chiangrai.com; bungalows incl breakfast 800-1600B), which takes the form of simple but spacious bamboo huts perched on a hill overlooking tiered rice fields. There are a few basic eateries in Ban Ruam Mit, and each of the hotels has its own restaurant.
From Chiang Rai, the easiest way to get to Ban Ruam Mit is via boat. A daily passenger boat departs from CR Pier (%053 750009; h7am-4pm), 2km northwest of Chiang Rai, at 10.30am (100B, about one hour); a charter will run about 800B. In the opposite direction, boats stop in Ban Ruam Mit around 2pm.
Doi Mae Salong
For a taste of China without crossing any international borders, head to this hilltop village.
Doi Mae Salong was originally settled by the 93rd Regiment of the Kuomintang (KMT), who had fled to Myanmar from China after the establishment of communist rule in 1949. The KMT were forced to leave Myanmar in 1961. Crossing into northern Thailand with their pony caravans, they settled into mountain villages and re-created a society like the one they had left behind in Yunnan. Generations later, this unique community still persists and is a domestic tourist attraction.
A tiny but busy and vibrant morning market (ตลาดเช้าดอยแม่สลอง ; h6-8am) convenes at the T-intersection near Shin Sane Guest House. The market attracts town residents and tribespeople from the surrounding districts and is worth waking up early for.
Shin Sane Guest House (%053 765026; www.maesalong-shinsane.blogspot.com; r 200-400B, bungalows 400-500B; 
i
W) and Little Home Guesthouse (%053 765389; www.maesalonglittlehome.com; Rte 1130; r & bungalows 500-800B; iW) both have free maps with hiking routes to hilltribe villages. The best hikes are north of Mae Salong between Ban Thoet Thai and the Myanmar border. Ask first about political conditions before heading off in this direction; Shan and Wa armies competing for control over this section of the Thailand–Myanmar border do occasionally clash in the area.
Many Thai tourists come to Doi Mae Salong simply to eat Yunnanese dishes such as màn·tŏh (steamed Chinese buns) served with braised pork belly and pickled vegetables, or black chicken braised with Chinese-style herbs. Homemade wheat and egg noodles are another speciality of Doi Mae Salong, and are served with a local broth that combines pork and a spicy chilli paste. They’re available at several places in town. Places to dig into the local cuisine include the morning market, Sue Hai (Rte 1130; mains 80-300B; h7am-9pm; 
v ) and Salima Restaurant (Rte 1130; mains 60-220B; h7am-8pm).
To Doi Mae Salong from Chiang Rai, take a bus to Mae Chan, from where there are frequent green sŏrng·tăa·ou to Doi Mae Salong (60B, one hour, four departures daily). In the reverse direction, you can flag down sŏrng·tăa·ou near Doi Mae Salong’s 7-Eleven.
o Top Tip
Countless tea houses in Doi Mae Salong sell locally grown teas (mostly oolong and jasmine) and offer complimentary tastings.
o
Did You Know?
Găm méuang, the northern Thai dialect, has its own set of tones and vocabulary.
Chiang Rai
6Drinking & Nightlife
1Sights
Mae Fah Luang Art & Culture ParkMuseum
(ไร่แม่ฟ้าหลวง ; www.maefahluang.org/rmfl; 313 Mu 7, Ban Pa Ngiw; adult/child 200B/free; h8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
In addition to a museum that houses one of Thailand’s biggest collections of Lanna artefacts, this vast, meticulously landscaped compound includes antique and contemporary art, Buddhist temples and other structures. It’s located about 4km west of the centre of Chiang Rai; a tuúk-tuúk or taxi here will run to around 100B.
Oub Kham MuseumMuseum
(พิพิธภัณฑ์อูบคำ ; www.oubkhammuseum.com; Th Nakhai; adult/child incl tour 300/200B; h8am-5pm)
This slightly zany private museum houses an impressive collection of paraphernalia from virtually every corner of the former Lanna kingdom. The items, some of which truly are one of a kind, range from a monkey-bone food taster used by Lanna royalty to an impressive carved throne from Chiang Tung, Myanmar.
It’s located 2km west of the town centre and can be a bit tricky to find; túk-túk will go here for about 60B.
Wat Phra KaewBuddhist Temple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพระแก้ว ; Th Trairat; donations appreciated; htemple 7am-7pm, museum 9am-5pm)
Originally called Wat Pa Yia (Bamboo Forest Monastery) in the local dialect, this is the city’s most revered Buddhist temple. The main prayer hall is a medium-sized, well-preserved wooden structure. The octagonal chedi (stupa) behind it dates from the late 14th century and is in typical Lanna style. The adjacent two-storey wooden building is a museum housing various Lanna artefacts.
Wat Phra SinghBuddhist Temple
(MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพระสิงห์ ; Th Singhaclai; donations appreciated; hdaylight hours)
This temple dates back to the late 14th century, and its oldest surviving original buildings are typical northern Thai-style wooden structures with low, sweeping roofs. The main wí·hăhn (sanctuary) houses impressive wooden doors thought to have been carved by local artists, as well as a copy of Chiang Mai’s sacred Phra Singh Buddha.
Tham Tu Pu & Buddha CaveBuddhist Temple
(ถ้ำตุ๊ปู่ /ถ้ำพระ ; Th Ka Salong; hdaylight hours) F
Cross the Mae Fah Luang Bridge (located just northwest of the city centre) to the northern side of Mae Nam Kok and you’ll come to a turn-off for both Tham Tu Pu and the Buddha Cave. Neither attraction is particularly amazing on its own, but the surrounding country is beautiful and would make an ideal destination for a lazy bike or motorcycle ride.
Follow the road for 1km, then turn off onto a dirt path for 200m to the base of a limestone cliff, where there is a steep set of stairs leading to a main chamber holding a dusty Buddha statue; this is Tham Tu Pu.
Continue along the same road for 3km more (the sign says ‘Buddha Images Cave’) and you’ll reach Buddha Cave, a cavern by Mae Nam Kok containing a tiny but active Buddhist temple, a lone monk and numerous cats. The temple was one of several destinations on a visit to the region by King Rama V in the early 20th century.
2Activities
Hiking excursions through hill-tribe country are popular in Chiang Rai, and can be organised through local guesthouses and hotels. Prices depend on the type of activities and the number of days and participants, and generally includes everything from accommodation to transport and food. See here for further information.
SuwanneeCooking
(%084 740 7119; www.suwanneethaicooking classchiangrai.blogspot.com; lessons 1250B; hcourses 9.30am-2pm)
Suwannee’s cooking courses involve a visit to a local market and instruction in cooking four dishes. Her house is about 3km outside the city centre, but she can pick you up at most centrally located hotels and guesthouses.
Chiang Rai Bicycle ToursCycling
%053 774506, 085 662 4347; www.chiangrai bicycletour.com; tours from 1450B)
Offers a variety of two-wheeled excursions in the areas surrounding Chiang Rai.
Chaow Nang StudioCultural
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 645/7 Th Uttarakit; h10am-7pm)
Dress up like a member of Lanna royalty and have your portrait (from 1000B) taken for posterity – a must-do activity for Thai visitors to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. It has a huge array of costumes and backdrops.
7 Shopping
Thanon Khon MuanMarket
(Th Sankhongnoi; h6-9pm Sun)
Come Sunday evening, the stretch of Th Sankhongnoi from Soi 2 heading west is closed to traffic and in its place are vendors selling clothes, handicrafts and local food. Th Sankhongnoi is called Th Sathanpayabarn where it intersects with the southern end of Th Phahonyothin.
Walking StreetMarket
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Thanalai; h4-10pm Sat)
If you’re in town on a Saturday evening, be sure not to miss the open-air Walking Street, an expansive street market focusing on all things Chiang Rai, from handicrafts to local dishes. The market spans Th Thanalai from the Hilltribe Museum to the morning market.
Night BazaarMarket
(MAP GOOGLE MAP off Th Phahonyothin; h6-11pm)
Adjacent to the bus station off Th Phahonyothin is Chiang Rai’s night market. On a much smaller scale than the one in Chiang Mai, it is nevertheless an OK place to find an assortment of handicrafts and touristy souvenirs.
5 Eating
Come mealtime, you’ll inevitably be pointed in the direction of Chiang Rai’s night bazaar, but the food there is generally pretty dire – you’ve been warned. Instead, if you’re in town on a weekend, hit the vendors at Chiang Rai’s open-air markets, Thanon Khon Muan and the Walking Street, which feature a good selection of local dishes.
Lung EedThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Watpranorn; mains 40-100B; h11.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun)
One of Chiang Rai’s most delicious dishes is available at this simple shophouse restaurant. There’s an English-language menu on the wall, but don’t miss the sublime lâhp gài (minced chicken fried with local spices and topped with crispy deep-fried chicken skin, shallots and garlic).
The restaurant is about 150m east of Rte 1/AH2.
Paa SukThai$
(Th Sankhongnoi, no Roman-script sign; mains 10-25B; h8.30am-3pm)
Paa Suk does big, rich bowls of kà·nŏm jeen naám ngée·o (a broth of pork or beef and tomatoes served over fresh rice noodles).
The restaurant is between Soi 4 and Soi 5 of Th Sankhongnoi (the street is called Th Sathanpayabarn where it intersects with the southern end Th Phahonyothin). There’s no Roman-script sign; look for the yellow sign.
Khao Soi Phor JaiThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Jetyod; mains 40-50B; h7am-4pm)
Phor Jai serves mild but tasty bowls of the eponymous curry noodle dish, as well as a few other northern Thai staples. There’s no Roman-script sign, but look for the open-air shophouse with the white-and-blue interior.
Phu LaeThai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 673/1 Th Thanalai; mains 80-320B; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm; 
a )
This air-conditioned restaurant is popular with Thai tourists for its tasty but somewhat gentrified northern Thai fare. Recommended local dishes include the gaang hang·lair (pork belly in a rich Burmese-style curry) served with cloves of pickled garlic, and sâi òo·a (herb-packed pork sausages).
Namnigew Pa NuanVietnamese, Thai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Sanpanard; mains 10-120B; h9am-5pm)
This semi-concealed place (there’s no Roman-script sign) serves a unique mix of Vietnamese and northern Thai dishes. Tasty food, friendly service and a fun, barn-like atmosphere make us wish it was open for dinner as well.
Muang ThongChinese, Thai$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP cnr Th Sanpanard & Th Phahonyothin; mains 30-100B; h24hr)
Comfort food for Thais and travellers alike: this long-standing open-air place serves the usual repertoire of satisfyingly salty and spicy Chinese-Thai dishes.
Chiang Rai’s Cafe Scene
For a relatively small town, Chiang Rai has an enviable spread of high-quality, Western-style cafes. This is largely due to the fact many of Thailand’s best coffee beans are grown in the more remote corners of the province.
BaanChivitMai Bakery (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.bcmthai.com; Th Prasopsook; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; W) In addition to a proper cup of joe made from local beans, you can snack on surprisingly authentic Swedish-style sweets and Western-style meals and sandwiches at this popular bakery. All the profits go to BaanChivitMai, an organisation that runs homes and education projects for vulnerable, orphaned or AIDS-affected children.
Doi Chaang (MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Thanalai; h8am-8pm; W) Doi Chaang is the leading brand among Chiang Rai coffees, and its beans are now sold as far abroad as Canada and Europe. The flagship cafe is a comfortable place to sip and offers a short menu of snacks and light meals.
Prompt Cafe (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.facebook.com/prompt cafedripcoffee; 417/4 Th Phahonyothin; h7.30am-5.30pm) This closet sized cafe, probably the city’s most sophisticated, serves single-origin drip coffees (with locally sourced beans) and espresso drinks.
Roast (Th Sankhongluang; h7.30am-5pm) This ‘drip bar’ treats local beans with the utmost respect.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Chiang Rai RamluekBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Phahonyothin; h4pm-midnight)
For a Thai-style night out on the town, consider this popular place. There’s no English-language sign, but follow the live music and look for the knot of outdoor tables. Food is also available.
Cat BarBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 1013/1 Th Jetyod; h5pm-1am)
Long-standing Cat Bar has a pool table and, on some nights, live music from 10.30pm.
Motorcycle Touring in Northern Thailand
A good introduction to motorcycle touring in northern Thailand is the 100km Samoeng loop, which can be tackled in half a day. The route extends north from Chiang Mai and follows Rtes 107, 1096 and 1269, passing through excellent scenery and with plenty of curves and providing a taste of what a longer ride up north will be like.
The 470km Chiang Rai loop, which passes through scenic Fang and Tha Ton along Rtes 107, 1089 and 118, is another popular ride that can be broken up with a stay in Chiang Rai.
The classic northern route is the Mae Hong Son loop, a 600km ride that begins in Chiang Mai and takes in 1864 curves along Rte 1095 with possible stays in Pai, Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang, before looping back to Chiang Mai via Rte 108.
A lesser known but equally fun ride is to follow Rtes 1155 and 1093 from Chiang Khong in Chiang Rai Province to the little-visited city of Phayao, a day trip that passes through some of the most dramatic mountain scenery in the country.
The best source of information on motorcycle touring in the north is Golden Triangle Rider (GT Rider; www.gt-rider.com). Publishers of a series of terrific motorcycle touring-based maps, its website includes heaps of information on hiring bikes (including recommended hire shops in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai) plus a variety of suggested tours with maps and an interactive forum.
8 Information
There are several banks with foreign exchange and ATMs on both Th Phahonyothin and Th Thanalai.
Overbrook Hospital (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 711 366; www.overbrook-hospital.com; Th Singhaclai) English is spoken at this modern hospital.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (MAP GOOGLE MAP TAT; %053 744674, nationwide 1672; tatchrai@tat.or.th; Th Singhaclai; h8.30am-4.30pm) English is limited, but staff here do their best to give advice and can provide a small selection of maps and brochures.
Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 740 249, nationwide 1155; Th Uttarakit; h24hr) English is spoken and police are on standby around the clock.
8 Getting There & Away
Air
Chiang Rai International Airport (Mae Fah Luang International Airport; %053 798 000; www.chiangraiairportthai.com) is approximately 8km north of the city. Taxis run into town from the airport for 200B.
Bus
Buses bound for destinations within Chiang Rai Province depart from the interprovincial bus station (MAP GOOGLE MAP %053 715952; Th Prasopsook) in the centre of town. If you’re heading beyond Chiang Rai (or are in a hurry), you’ll have to go to the New Bus Station (%053 773989; Rte 1/AH2), 5km south of town on Rte 1/AH2; frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou linking it and the interprovincial station run from 6am to 5.30pm.
8 Getting Around
Chiang Rai Taxi (%053 773477) operates inexpensive metered taxis in and around town. A tuúk-tuúk ride anywhere in central Chiang Rai should cost around 60B. In addition to most guesthouses, several places along Th Jetyod hire motorcycles, with rates starting at 200B for 24 hours.