Railay
Railay at a Glance…
The Andaman’s fairy-tale limestone crags come to a dramatic climax at Railay (also spelt Rai Leh), a mountainous peninsula of Krabi Province that is only reached by boat, giving the illusion of being a far-flung island. Rock climbers scramble up huge limestone towers for amazing clifftop views while kayakers and snorkellers take an amphibious assault on the landscape. The wind-down scene has a Thai-Rasta vibe that enthusiastically toasts the sunsets and welcomes new acolytes.
Railay in Two Days
Take a two-day rock-climbing course to master the vertical cliffs and embrace endless sea views. Carbo load for your day at Mama’s Chicken, a favourite for healthy eats.
Railay in Four Days
Find a cosy patch of sand and nap through the day, or hire a long-tail boat to take you out for snorkelling at the nearby islands. Break up the routine with a sweaty hike to Sa Phra Nang and Tham Phra Nang; remember your bug spray. Reward breaking a sweat with a cocktail at Last Bar and dinner at Sunset Restaurant.
Arriving in Railay
Long-tail boats run from Krabi’s Tha Khong Kha (45 minutes). There’s also a year-round ferry from Phuket (2¼ hours). All boats arrive/depart at Hat Railay West.
Sleeping
There aren’t a lot of lodging options on Railay because it is so small but the options do cover the budget spectrum. Railay Highlands and Hat Ton Sai favour backpackers while Railay East and Railay West have midrange and top-end options. Book in advance in December and January as vacancies become slim.
Overnight trips to deserted islands can be arranged with local boat owners, but you’ll need your own camping gear and food.
For more information on the best area to stay in, see here.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Rock Climbing
Railay is one of Southeast Asia’s top climbing spots and continues to gain in popularity. The routes are varied in technical challenge and have rewarding sea views.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Try deep-water soloing, where if you fall you’ll probably just get wet.
8 Need to Know
Climbing courses cost 1000B for a half-day and 1800B for a full day.
5
Take a Break
Talk bolts and ropes at Highland Rock Climbing, a popular climbing school hang-out.
oTop Tip
Chalk is obligatory for avoiding sweaty palms in this tropical climate.
With over 1000 bolted routes, ranging from beginner to advanced, all with unparalleled clifftop vistas, you could spend months climbing and exploring. Deep-water soloing, where free-climbers scramble up ledges over deep water, is incredibly popular.
Climbing Routes
Most climbers start off at Muay Thai Wall and One, Two, Three Wall, at the southern end of Hat Railay East (Hat Sunrise), where there are at least 40 routes graded from 4b to 8b on the French system. The mighty Thaiwand Wall sits at the southern end of Hat Railay West, offering a sheer limestone cliff with some of the most challenging climbing routes, graded from 6a to 7c+.
Other top climbs include Hidden World, with its classic intermediate routes; Wee’s Present Wall, an overlooked 7c+ winner; Diamond Cave, a busy beginner–intermediate favourite; and Ao Nang Tower, a three-pitch climbing wall reached only by boat.
There’s excellent climbing information at www.railay.com. Rock Climbing in Thailand and Laos (2014; Elke Schmitz) is an up-to-date guide to the area.
Courses & Gear
Beginners can start with a half- or full-day session. Private sessions are also available. Three-day courses involve lead climbing, where you clip into bolts on the rock face. Experienced climbers can rent gear sets for two people from the climbing schools for around 1200B per day (quality varies); the standard set consists of a 60m rope, two climbing harnesses and climbing shoes. If climbing independently, you’re best off bringing your own gear, including nuts and cams as backup for thinly protected routes. Some climbing schools sell a limited range of imported gear.
Climbing Outfitters
Recommended companies include the following:
o Basecamp Tonsai (
%081 149 9745; www.tonsaibasecamp.com; Hat Ton Sai; half/full day 800/1500B, 3-day course 6000B; 
h8am-5pm & 7-9pm)
o Hot Rock (%085 641 9842; www.railay adventure.com; Hat Railay East; half/full day 1000/1800B, 3-day course 6000B; h9am-8pm)
o King Climbers (%081 797 8923; www.railay.com; Walking St; half/full day 1000/1800B, 3-day course 6000B; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
1Sights
Sa Phra NangLagoon
(Holy Princess Pool)
Halfway along the trail linking Hat Railay East to Hat Tham Phra Nang, a sharp ‘path’ leads up the jungle-cloaked cliff wall to this hidden lagoon. The first section is a steep 10-minute uphill climb (with ropes for assistance). Fork right for the lagoon, reached by sheer downhill climbing. If you fork left, you’ll quickly reach a dramatic cliff-side viewpoint; this is a strenuous but generally manageable, brief hike.
Tham Phra NangCave
(ถ้ำพระนาง , Princess Cave; Hat Tham Phra Nang)
At the eastern end of Hat Tham Phra Nang is this important shrine for local fishermen (Muslim and Buddhist), who make offerings of carved wooden phalluses in the hope that the inhabiting spirit of a drowned Indian princess will provide a good catch. According to legend, a royal barge carrying the princess foundered here in a storm during the 3rd century BC. Her spirit took over the cave, granting favours to all who paid their respects.
ViewpointViewpoint
A steep, rough trail leads to this viewpoint, which offers fine vistas over the peninsula. The trail is halfway along the path linking Hat Railay East to Hat Phra Nang. Note that the first section involves a 10-minute uphill climb (with ropes for assistance). Turn left at the fork for the viewpoint.
2Activities
Dive operations in Railay run trips out to local dive sites, including Ko Poda. Two dives cost 3700B; an Open Water dive course is 14,500B. There are also dive trips to Ko Phi-Phi and King Cruiser Wreck for 4900B. Most Ao Nang–based dive operators (where there’s more choice) will pick up from Railay.
Full-day, multi-island snorkelling trips to Ko Poda, Ko Hong, Ko Kai and beyond can be arranged through resorts and agencies from 1200B, or you can charter a long-tail (half-/full-day 1800/2800B) from Hat Railay West. One-day snorkelling tours to Ko Phi-Phi cost 2400B. If you’re just snorkelling off Railay, most resorts rent mask sets and fins for around 150B each.
Rent kayaks on Hat Railay West or Hat Ton Sai (200/800B per hour/day).
5 Eating
The beachfront resort restaurants at Hat Railay West are the best, and the most expensive, on Railay. You’ll find more affordable Thai and Western options inland. Don’t expect fine dining at Hat Ton Sai, where cheap eats abound.
Sunset RestaurantSeafood$$
(%075 819463; www.krabisandsea.com; Hat Railay West; mains 180-400B; h11am-9pm; 
W)
Attached to the Sand Sea Resort and with a fine beachfront location, this is a popular place to sample fresh seafood while gazing out to sea. It also does the full range of Thai classics: curries, stir-fries and salads.
Mama’s ChickenThai$
(Hat Ton Sai; mains 70-100B; h7am-10pm; 
v)
Relocated to the jungle path leading inland to Hat Railay East and West, Mama’s remains one of Ton Sai’s favourite food stops for its international breakfasts, fruit smoothies and extensive range of cheap Thai dishes, including a rare massaman tofu and other vegetarian-friendly adaptations.
Mangrove RestaurantThai$$
(Walking St; mains 80-350B; h10am-10pm)
This humble, heaving, local-style place, set beneath a stilted thatched roof between east and west beaches, turns out all the Thai favourites, from glass-noodle salad and cashew-nut stir-fry to curries, sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad) and the wonderful creation that is egg-grilled sticky rice. Praise goes to the kitchen’s matriarch.
The GrottoInternational, Thai$$$
(%075 620740; www.rayavadee.com; Hat Phra Nang; mains 400-690B; hnoon-8pm)
Part of the exclusive Rayavadee resort complex, the Grotto plates up a menu of Thai and Mediterranean treats half inside an illuminated cave fronting Hat Phra Nang,
The TerraceThai$$$
(Hat Phra Nang; mains 450-1890B; h11am-11pm; v)
An upscale pan-Asian menu – Japanese, Vietnamese, Indian and Thai dishes – on a terrace overlooking Hat Phra Nang. Decent cocktails too.
6 Drinking & Nightlife
Last BarBar
(Hat Railay East; h11am-late)
A reliably packed-out multilevel tiki bar that rambles to the edge of the mangroves, with bunting, balloons and cushioned seats on one deck, candlelit dining tables on another, live music at the back and waterside fire shows.
Chill OutBar
(Hat Ton Sai; h11am-late; W)
Kick back over cold beers, live music, DJ beats and frenzied fire shows at Ton Sai’s top jungle reggae bar.
Highland Rock ClimbingCafe
(Railay Highlands; %084 443 9539; h8am-8pm) Part climbing school, part cafe, this driftwood-clad place sources beans from sustainable farms in Chiang Rai and serves some of the peninsula’s best coffee.
8 Getting There & around
Long-tail boats run to Railay from Krabi’s Tha Khong Kha and from the seafront at Ao Nang and Ao Nam Mao. To Krabi, long-tails leave from Hat Railay East. Boats in both directions leave between 7.45am and 6pm when they have eight people (150B, 45 minutes).
A year-round ferry runs to Ko Phi-Phi (400B, 1¼ hours) and Phuket (650B, 2¼ hours).
iWhere to Stay
There are four beaches around Railay, or you can sleep up on the headland. It’s a five-minute walk between Hat Railay East, Hat Railay West, Hat Tham Phra Nang and the highlands.
| Area | Atmosphere |
|---|---|
| Hat Railay East (Hat Sunrise) | This shallow, steamy, muddy bay is lined with affordable hotels, guesthouses and restaurants and is only a five-minute walk to better beaches. |
| Hat Railay West | A near flawless white wonder and the best place to swim or watch a fiery sunset. It’s all tasteful midrange and top-end resorts here. Long-tail boats to/from Ao Nang. |
| Hat Tham Phra Nang | One of the world’s most beautiful beaches; there’s only one place to stay here – the peninsula’s most exclusive resort, Rayavadee. Anyone can drop a beach towel. |
| Hat Ton Sai | The grittier climbers’ and budgeteers’ retreat. Bars and bungalows are nestled further back in the jungle and it’s a lively, fun scene. To get to the other beaches you’ll need to take a long-tail (50B), scramble over rocks at low tide, or hike 30 minutes through the jungle. |
| Railay Highlands | About 500m inland from Hat Railay West or East, sea breezes cool the jungle canopy and lodgings are good value. |