Ko Pha-Ngan
Ko Pha-Ngan Party Scene
Diving on Ko Pha-Ngan
Sights
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Information
Ko Pha-Ngan at a Glance…
Hippie-at-heart Ko Pha-Ngan has become so synonymous with the wild Full Moon Party that the rest of the island gets eclipsed. After the werewolves of the Full Moon leave, Ko Pha-Ngan returns to its hammock hanging.
The island is carved into sandy coves with offshore reefs and a thick jungle crown in the interior. The gentle coral-fringed bays make it perfect for families. And a diversity of accommodation – from cheapish bungalows on party beaches to sophisticated resorts on the remote east coast – makes this tropical island a well-rounded holiday companion.
Ko Pha-Ngan in Two Days
Savour the great diversity of the ocean’s blues and greens from one of Ko Pha-Ngan’s many beautiful beaches. Go for a beach snorkel or dive. Check out the punters on Hat Rin for a sundowner, or more.
Ko Pha-Ngan in Four Days
Start day three exploring the eastern side of the island for castaway fantasies. Then do a full-day dive tour of the Gulf’s famous dive spots. Lounge around and do nothing on your last day.
Arriving on Ko Pha-Ngan
Thong Sala Boats connect Ko Pha-Ngan with Ko Samui, Chumphon and Surat Thani. Sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up minibuses) meet passengers for hotel transfers.
Sleeping
Hat Rin is the busy party beach with a huge selection of accommodation. The west coast is a nice hybrid, with enough amenities to avoid feeling stranded and a diverse range of accommodation. There’s limited lodging and transport is expensive at the north coast beaches but there’s also dramatic scenery and secluded beaches. The east coast beaches are deliciously secluded and have minimal development; transport is limited.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Ko Pha-Ngan Party Scene
Throngs of whisky-bucket sippers and fire twirlers gather on Hat Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) for the infamous Full Moon Parties. Full-on debauchery rages until the sun replaces the moon in the sky.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Transforming yourself into a walking day-glo stick – it is the thing to do.
8Need to Know
Party dates vary so check ahead. A 100B fee is charged for post-party clean-up.
5Take a Break
Chicken corner is a popular street stall area to load up for party stamina.
oTop Tip
Make reservations in advance as accommodation books up fast.
No one knows exactly when or how these crazy parties started – most believe they began in 1988, but accounts of the first party range from an Australian backpacker’s going-away bash to a group of hippies escaping Samui’s ‘electric parties’. None of that is relevant now: today thousands of bodies converge for an epic trance-a-thon. Crowds can swell to an outrageous 40,000 partiers during high season, while the low season still sees a respectable 5000 pilgrims.
Party Tips
If your trip doesn’t coincide with a full moon, fear not. Enterprising locals have organised a slew of other reasons to get sloshed. There are Black Moon Parties, Half Moon Parties and Moon-set Parties to name a few. Some critics claim the party has lost its carefree flavour after increasing violence (assaults, thefts and injuries). Precautions should be followed to ensure personal and property safety.
oSecure all valuables, especially when staying in budget bungalows.
oWear protective shoes during the sandy celebration, unless you want a tetanus shot.
oDon’t sample the drug buffet, nor swim in the ocean under the influence of alcohol.
oStay in a group of two or more people, especially if you’re a woman, and especially when returning home at the end of the evening.
Party Places
The Full Moon Party unfolds on the soft sands of Hat Rin (Sunrise Beach). Surrounding bars also have their own periphery parties.
o Rock (
% 093 725 7989; Hat Rin Nok; 
h8am-late) Superb views of the party from the elevated terrace on the far southern side of the beach are matched by the best cocktails in town.
o Sunrise (
% 077 375144; Hat Rin Nok) Claims a spot on the sand where trance beats shake the graffitied walls, with drum ’n’ bass coming into its own at Full Moon.
o Tommy (Hat Rin Nok) Hat Rin’s largest venue with blaring Full Moon trance music. Drinks are dispensed from a large ark-like bar.
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Diving on Ko Pha-Ngan
Everyone will tell you to go to nearby Ko Tao to learn to dive. But Ko Pha-Ngan enjoys a much quieter, more laid-back diving scene focused on fun diving.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Wake up and hit the near-shore snorkelling spots – better than a cup of coffee.
8 Need to Know
Three dives cost 3650B to 4000B and include a full lunch. Two dives cost around 2500B to 2800B.
5
Take a Break
After a day of diving, grab a sundowner at Amsterdam with tourists and locals alike.
oTop Tip
Ko Pha-Ngan is now competitive with Ko Tao for Open Water certification prices.
Dive Sites
A major perk of diving from Ko Pha-Ngan is the proximity to Sail Rock (Hin Bai) and Chumphon Pinnacle, the premier dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand.
Chumphon Pinnacle (36m maximum depth) has a colourful assortment of sea anemones along the four interconnected pinnacles. The site plays host to schools of giant trevally, tuna and large grey reef sharks. Whale sharks are known to pop up once in a while.
Sail Rock (40m maximum depth) features a massive rock chimney with a vertical swim-through, and large pelagics like barracuda and kingfish. This is one of the top spots in Southeast Asia to see whale sharks; in the past few years they have been seen year-round, so there’s no clear season. An abundance of corals and large tropical fish can be seen at depths of 10m to 30m.
Like the other islands in the Samui Archipelago, Pha-Ngan has several small reefs dispersed around the island. The clear favourite is Ko Ma, a small island in the northwest connected to Ko Pha-Ngan by a sandbar. There are also some rock reefs of interest on the eastern side of the island. Hiking and snorkelling day trips to Ang Thong Marine National Park generally depart from Ko Samui, but recently tour operators are starting to shuttle tourists from Ko Pha-Ngan as well. Ask at your accommodation for details about boat trips as companies often come and go due to unstable petrol prices.
Dive Companies
Group sizes tend to be smaller on Ko Pha-Ngan than on Ko Tao since the island has fewer divers in general. But be warned that demand goes up before and after the Full Moon Parties because there are more tourists.
The most popular trips departing from Ko Pha-Ngan are three-site day trips, stopping at Chumphon Pinnacle, Sail Rock and one of the other premier sites in the area.
Lotus Diving (
% 077 374142; www.lotusdiving.com; Ban Chalok Lam; h7am-6pm) and Haad Yao Divers (
% 086 279 3085; www.haadyaodivers.com; from 1400B) are the main operators on the island with a solid reputation.
1Sights
This large island has many jungle attractions in addition to its spectacular beaches. Explore the isolated beaches on the east coast: Than Sadet, Hat Yuan, Hat Thian and the teeny Ao Thong Reng. Note that most of the waterfalls slow to a trickle during the dry season, so aim to visit from October to January.
Domsila ViewpointViewpoint
MAP The terrific Domsila Viewpoint – offering a rocky perch with superb, ranging views – is a 15-minute, root-choked climb up from Nam Tok Phaeng waterfall. Then you can then either backtrack or continue on the two- to three-hour trail through the jungle in a loop, past other waterfalls before bringing you back. Take water and good shoes.
Ko Pha-Ngan’s Tallest Yang Na Yai TreeLandmark
MAP Thrusting into the heavens near Wat Pho, Ko Pha-Ngan’s tallest Yang Na Yai (Dipterocarpus alatus; ยางนา) is an astonishing sight as you veer round the bend for the diminutive Wat Nok, a small shrine tucked away in the greenery beyond. These giants grow to over 50m in height and, for tree lovers, are real beauties. This imposing specimen is often garlanded with colourful ribbons.
Guanyin TempleBuddhist Temple
(MAP 40B; h7am-6pm)
Signposted as the ‘Goddess of Mercy Shrine Joss House’, this fascinating Chinese temple is dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. The temple’s Chinese name (普岳山) on the entrance gate refers to the island in China that is the legendary home of the goddess. The main hall – the Great Treasure Hall – is a highly colourful confection, containing several bodhisattvas, including Puxian (seated on an elephant) and Wenshu (sitting on a lion).
Wat Phu Khao NoiBuddhist Temple
(MAP hdawn-dusk) 
F
The oldest temple on the island is Wat Phu Khao Noi, near the hospital in Thong Sala. While the site is open to visitors throughout the day, the monks are only around in the morning.
7Shopping
Thong Sala Walking StreetMarket
(MAP Taladkao Rd, Thong Sala; h4-10pm Sat)
Thong Sala’s Walking Street market kicks off every Saturday from around 4pm, with a terrific choice of street food, souvenirs, gifts, handicrafts and clothes. It’s the best time to see Thong Sala at its liveliest.
LilawadeeClothing
(MAP % 630 920327; Thong Sala; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5-9pm Fri-Wed)
This neat and idiosyncratic shop stocks a sparkling range of customised, head-turning glitter motorbike helmets, stacked temptingly on shelves at the rear, fashion, art and clothing. If it’s raining, expect hours to be reduced to noon to 8pm.
5Eating
Most visitors quickly adopt the lazy lifestyle and wind up eating at their accommodation, which is a shame as Ko Pha-Ngan has some excellent restaurants scattered around the island; at the very least, it’s another reason to get exploring.
5Hat Rin
Lazy HouseInternational $$
(MAP Hat Rin Nai; dishes 90-270B; hlunch & dinner)
Back in the day, this joint was the owner’s apartment – everyone liked his cooking so much that he decided to turn the place into a restaurant and hang-out spot. Today, Lazy House is one of Hat Rin’s best places to veg out in front of a movie with a scrumptious shepherd’s pie.
Monna LisaItalian $$
(MAP
% 084 441 5871; Hat Rin Nai; pizza & pasta from 200B; h3-11pm)
Travellers still rave about the pizza here, and the pasta gets a thumbs-up as well. It’s run by a team of friendly Italians and has a basic, open-air atmosphere. There’s another branch in Thong Sala.
5Southern Beaches
Bubba’s Coffee BarCafe $
(MAP Ban Tai; mains 120-220B; h7am-5pm; 
W )
Bubba’s is a superb caffeination choice on the north side of the road between Thong Sala and Hat Rin. Pull in, find a seat and enjoy some fine coffee and the easy-going atmosphere (despite attracting legions of customers from the nearby hostels). The wholesome menu is lovely too, as is the cool interior.
Fisherman’s RestaurantSeafood $$
(MAP
% 084 454 7240; Ban Tai; dishes 50-600B; h1.30-10pm)
Sit in a long-tail boat looking out over the sunset and a rocky pier. Lit up at night, it’s one of the island’s nicest settings, and the food, from the addictive yellow-curry crab to the massive seafood platter to share, is as wonderful as the ambience. Reserve ahead, especially when the island is hopping during party time.
5Other Beaches
CraveBurgers $$
(MAP
% 098 838 7268; www.cravekohphangan.com; Sri Thanu; mains from 200B; h6-10pm Wed-Mon; W )
Attractively bedecked with glowing lanterns at night, this excellent, very pop-
ular and atmospheric choice in Sri Thanu puts together some fine burgers in a cosy and charming setting. Cocktails are great too, starting at 170B. Shame it’s only open evenings.
DotsCafe $
(MAP Thong Sala; snacks from 60B; h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; W )
Light, bright and spacious, Dots is a welcome addition to Thong Sala’s cafe culture, with a modern and chilled vibe. Pretty much right next to the Food Market, it’s a sharp-looking spot for a slice of carrot cake, frappé, full-flavoured coffee, hot choc or a croissant for brekkie.
Fat CatCafe $
(MAP Thong Sala; breakfast from 70B, mains 90-195B; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat; W )
This small, charming, colourful and busy – with staff rather run off their feet – Portuguese-run cafe does wholesome breakfasts and lovely coffees through the day. It’s a very enjoyable place for a wake-up meal first thing in the morning, or any other time.
Food MarketMarket $
(MAP Thong Sala; dishes 25-180B; h1-11pm)
A heady mix of steam and snacking locals, Thong Sala’s terrific food market is a must for those looking for doses of culture while nibbling on low-priced snacks. Wander the stalls for a galaxy of Thai street food, from vegetable curry puffs to corn on the cob, spicy sausages, kebabs, spring rolls, Hainanese chicken rice or coconut ice cream.
There’s a sit-down section at the rear, served by a number of Thai kitchens, including a few Italian ones as well and a vegetarian option.
Nira’sBakery $
(MAP Thong Sala; snacks from 80B; h7am-7pm; W )
With lots of busy staff offering outstanding service, a big and bright interconnected two-room interior, scrummy baked goodies, tip-top coffee (and exotic rarities such as Marmite and Vegemite) and trendy furniture, Nira’s is second to none in Thong Sala, and perhaps the entire island. This is the place for breakfast. Music is cool, jazzy chill-out. There’s another (small) branch in Hat Rin.
PeppercornSteak $$
(MAP
% 087 896 4363; www.peppercornphangan.com; Hat Salad; mains 160-400B; h4-10pm Mon-Sat; 
v )
Escargot, succulent steaks and schnitzel in a rickety jungle cottage? You bet! Peppercorn may be tucked in the brush away from the sea, but that shouldn’t dissuade foodies from seeking out some of Ko Pha-Ngan’s best international cuisine, with a fine selection of good vegetarian dishes to boot, and mango cake for dessert. No MSG or artificial ingredients.
6Drinking & Nightlife
For something mellower, the west coast has several excellent bars, where you can raise a loaded cocktail glass to a blood-orange sunset from a hilltop or over mangrove trees at the water’s edge. Thong Sala has a couple of decent bars too.
Belgian Beer BarBar
(MAP www.seetanu.com; Ban Sri Thanu; h8am-10pm)
Run by the affable Quentin, this enjoyable bar defies Surat Thani’s appropriation by yogis and the chakra-balancing crowd with a heady range of Belgian beer, the most potent of which (Amber Bush) delivers a dizzying 12.5% punch. If the yogic flying doesn’t give you wings, this might.
AmsterdamBar
(MAP
% 089 072 2233; Ao Plaay Laem; hnoon-midnight)
Near Ao Wok Tum on the west coast, hillside Amsterdam attracts tourists and locals from all over the island, seeking a superchilled spot to catch a Ko Pha-Ngan sunset and totally zone out.
Secret Beach BarBar
(MAP Hat Son; h9am-7pm)
There are few ways better to unwind at the end of a Ko Pha-Ngan day than watching the sun slide into an azure sea from this bar on the northwest sands of the island. Grab a table, order a mojito and take in the sunset through the palm fronds.
Ko Pha-Ngan’s Waterfalls
Nam Tok Phaeng
Protected by a national park, this waterfall is a pleasant reward after a short, but rough, hike. After the waterfall (dry out of season), it’s a further exhilarating 15-minute climb up a root-choked path (along the Phaeng-Domsila Nature Trail) to the fantastic Domsila Viewpoint, with superb, ranging views. The two- to three-hour trail then continues on through the jungle in a loop, past other waterfalls before bringing you back. Take water and good shoes.
Nam Tok Than Sadet
These falls feature boulders carved with the royal insignia of Rama V, Rama VII and Rama IX. King Rama V enjoyed this hidden spot so much that he returned over a dozen times between 1888 and 1909. The river waters of Khlong Than Sadet are now considered sacred and used in royal ceremonies.
Deang Waterfall
Than Sadet has a string of waterfalls down to the beach at Ao Thong Reng, and this is the best. Deang features a sequence of falls, a pool for swimming in and lots of rock-clambering opportunities. You may even find someone slumped in the main flow, cooling off on the rocks in the gush of the water. Look for the signs.
8Information
Ko Pha-Ngan Hospital ( % 077 377034; Thong Sala; h24hr)
About 2.5km north of Thong Sala, this government hospital offers 24-hour emergency services.
Main Police Station ( % 191, 077 377114; Thong Sala)
Located about 2km north of Thong Sala. Come here to file a report. You might be charged between 110B and 200B to file the report, which is for insurance and refusing to pay may lead to complications. If you are arrested you have the right to an embassy phone call; you don’t have to accept the ‘interpreter’ you are offered.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Ko Pha-Ngan’s airport was under construction at the time of writing; its opening date has not been released.
Boat
Rough waves cancel ferries during the monsoon (October and December). Boats connect to Ko Samui (20 minutes to one hour, 200B to 300B), and bus-boat combinations provide overland transport to Bangkok (10 to 17 hours, 1000B to 1300B).
8Getting Around
You can rent motorcycles all over the island (200B to 250B). Ko Pha-Ngan has many motorcycle accidents; always wear a helmet.
Sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up minibuses) chug along the island’s major roads and the riding rates double after sunset. The trip from Thong Sala to Hat Rin is 100B; further beaches will set you back around 150B to 200B.
Long-tail boats connect the southern piers (Thong Sala and Hat Rin) to the north and east coast beaches (Chalok Lam and Hat Khuat); expect to pay anywhere from 50B for a short trip, and up to 300B for a lengthier journey.