Ayuthaya
Ayuthaya at a Glance…
Ayuthaya reigned as the Siamese capital for more than 400 years. The island city was regaled at the time for its golden temples and architectural splendour. The kingdom fended off political intrigue and expansionist European powers, but after frequent wars with the Burmese, the city eventually fell in 1767. War, looting and gravity took their toll on Ayuthaya’s once great temples and today the remaining ruins are designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site. A quiet provincial town sprung up around the ruins, providing a glimpse into ordinary Thai life with a historic backdrop.
Ayuthaya in Two Days
Visit the interactive exhibition at the Ayutthaya Tourist Center and discover why the city was once so great. Cycle around Ayuthaya Historical Park, stopping at Lung Lek for the best noodles in town. The following day wander among the ruins then finish your visit with a feast at Pae Krung Gao.
Ayuthaya in Four Days
On your third day head out of the city to visit Bang Pa In Palace. On the way back, drop by at Wat Phanan Choeng to ensure good luck by releasing fish back into the river and return to the island in time to visit the nostalgic Million Toy Museum.
Arriving in Ayuthaya
Bus stop Most visitors arrive via bus or minivan from Bangkok. The bus stop is in the centre of town.
Train station Services from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station make the journey here. Ayuthaya’s train station is across the river from the centre of town.
Sleeping
The primary guesthouse zone is on the island around Soi 2, Th Naresuan – a convenient location with easy access to the historical park, restaurants, markets and transport – and there are also budget options close to the train station. Midrange and top-end hotels typically congregate around the river.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Ayuthaya Historical Park
At its zenith, Ayuthaya was home to more than 400 temples. Today dozens of them have been partially restored, leaving the naked stupas, roofless chapels and headless Buddha images to evocatively tell the kingdom’s tale of war with enemies and time.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
At night the temple ruins are dramatically lit up, providing great photo ops.
8 Need to Know
อุทยานประวัติศาตร์อยุธยา; individual sites 20-50B, day pass 220B; 
h8am-5pm
5
Take a Break
Lung Lek serves old-fashioned style ‘boat noodles’, a recipe from the days of floating markets.
oTop Tip
The temple ruins are revered symbols of royalty and religion; dress modestly and behave respectfully.
The historical park is divided into two parts: sites on the island and sites off the island. You can visit the island on a bicycle but will need a motorcycle or chartered transport to go beyond.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
One of the holiest sites, Wat Phra Si Sanphet (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพระศรีสรรเพชญ์; 50B; h8am-6pm) has three magnificent stupas and served as the model for Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaew. The temple was built in the late 15th century inside the palace grounds. It was Ayuthaya’s largest temple and once contained a 16m-high standing Buddha (Phra Si Sanphet) covered with approximately 143kg of gold.
Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit
Next to Wat Phra Si Sanphet, this sanctuary hall (MAP GOOGLE MAP วิหารพระมงคลบพิตร; h8am-5pm) 
F houses one of Thailand’s largest bronze Buddha images. The 12.5m-high figure (17m with the base) was badly damaged by a lightning-induced fire around 1700, and again when the Burmese sacked the city. The Buddha and the building were repaired in the 20th century.
Wat Mahathat
Founded in 1374, during the reign of King Borom Rachathirat I, Wat Mahathat (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดมหาธาตุ; Th Chee Kun; 50B; h8am-6.30pm) was the seat of the supreme patriarch and the kingdom’s most important temple. Today the ruins are best known for a curious interplay between nature and art: a sandstone Buddha head is held above the ground by entangled bodhi tree roots.
Wat Ratchaburana
The prang in this temple (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดราชบูรณะ; off Th Naresuan; 50B; h8am-6pm) is one of the best extant versions in the city, with detailed carvings of lotus and mythical creatures. You can climb inside it to visit the brightly painted crypt, if you aren’t afraid of heights, small spaces or bats. The temple was founded in 1424 by King Borom Rachathirat II on the cremation site for his two brothers who died fighting each other for the throne.
Wat Chai Wattanaram
This is the most impressive off-island site (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดไชยวัฒนาราม; Ban Pom; 50B; h8am-6pm) thanks to its 35m-high central prang (Khmer-style stupa) and overall good condition. It was built by King Prasat Thong beginning in 1630 (and taking around 20 years) to honour his mother.
Wat Phanan Choeng
A bevy of popular merit-making ceremonies makes this temple (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพนัญเชิง; Khlong Suan Plu; 20B; hdaylight hours) a bustling place on weekends. The temple marks the historic location of a Chinese community who settled in Ayuthaya in the 14th century and is often associated with Zheng He (known as Sam Po Khong in Thailand), the Chinese emissary who explored Southeast Asia in the 15th century.
The signature attraction is the 19m-high Phra Phanan Choeng Buddha, which was created in 1324 and sits inside a sanctuary surrounded by 84,000 small Buddha images. The Chinese shrine facing the river is especially colourful.
Wat Na Phra Men
This temple (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดหน้าพระเมรุ; Lum Phli; 20B; hdaylight hours) was one of the few to escape the wrath of Myanmar’s invading army in 1767 since it served as their main base. The bòht (ordination hall) is massive, larger than most modern ones, and the very holy main Buddha image wears royal attire, which was very common in the late Ayuthaya era. Despite what the English sign inside says, it’s made of bronze, not gold.
Ayutthaya Tourist Center
This multi-purpose building houses the tourist information centre (MAP GOOGLE MAP ศูนย์ท่องเที่ยวอยุธยา; 
%035 246076; off Th Si Sanphet; h8.30am-4.30pm) F on the ground floor.
But the reason for a visit is the excellent upstairs museum, which puts Ayuthaya history into context with displays about the temples and daily life. Also upstairs is the tiny but interesting Ayutthaya National Art Museum.
Ayuthaya Historical Study Centre
This modern museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP ศูนย์ศึกษาประวัติศาสตร์อยุธยา; %035 245123; Th Rotchana; adult/child 100/50B; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) funded by Japan features exhibitions on the lives of traditional villagers and the foreign communities during the Ayuthaya kingdom, plus a few dioramas of the city’s former glories.
5 Take a Break
Drop in to Bang Ian Night Market (Th Bang Ian; snacks from 10B, mains 30-100BMAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5-8.30pm) if you’re visiting the park in the late afternoon to evening.
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum
The largest museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติเจ้าสามพระยา; %035 244570; cnr Th Rotchana & Th Si Sanphet; adult/child 150B/free; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun) in the city displays many of the treasures unearthed during excavations of the ruins, including the golden treasures found in the crypts of Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana. Despite these treasures, the building lacks English signs and is a bit outdated.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
King U Thong founded this temple (วัดใหญ่ชัยมงคล; 20B; h6am-6pm) in 1357 to house monks returning from ordination in Sri Lanka. In 1592 King Naresuan built its fantastic bell-shaped chedi (stupa) after a victory over the Burmese. The landscaped gardens make this one of Ayuthaya’s most photogenic ruins. There’s a 7m-long reclining Buddha near the entrance and the local belief is that if you can get a coin to stick to the Buddha’s feet, good luck will come your way.
Wat Phu Khao Thong
Phu Khao Thong (MAP GOOGLE MAP เจดีย์ภูเขาทอง; hdaylight hours) F is a huge white stupa built by the Burmese to commemorate their occupation of Ayuthaya in 1569. The larger-than-life statue is a memorial to the all-conquering Thai King Naresuan, who ousted the Burmese. Surrounding him are reliefs of his heroic exploits, including wrestling a crocodile, and dozens of statues of fighting cockerels.
o Did You Know?
Bicycles are a great way of getting around more rural, less-trafficked corners of Thailand such as Ayuthaya Historical Park.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Bang Pa In Palace
A former summer palace for the Thai kings, Bang Pa In is an eclectic assortment of architectural styles ranging from Chinese throne rooms to Gothic churches.
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Feeding the fish that live in the palace lake – it is an act of merit-making for Thai Buddhists and is believed to bring luck.
8 Need to Know
พระราชวังบางปะอิน; 100B; h8am-4pm, last entrance 3.15pm
5 Take a Break
Drinks and snacks are served at the small cafe by the Therawat Khanlai Gate, which overlooks the lake.
oTop Tip
This is royal property so dress modestly.
Bang Pa In was built beside the Chao Phraya River in the 17th century during the reign of King Prasat Thong. The palace was abandoned by the Ayuthaya Kings and later revived by the Bangkok Kings. The European formal gardens, statuary and residences were introduced by King Rama V (Chulalongkorn), an enthusiast of Western art and architecture. At the time of use, the property was divided into two sectors by an artificial lake – the outer was for ceremonial use and inner for the royal family only.
Saphakhan Ratchaprayun
A striking European-style residence originally built for the king’s brothers now houses a small history museum about the palace.
Phra Thinang Warophat Phiman
Built in 1876, this neoclassical building served as King Rama V’s residence and throne hall. Historical paintings decorate the chambers. During the current royal family’s rare visits, they stay here.
Aisawan Thiphya-At
A classical Thai-style pavilion is scenically situated in the palace lake. Inside is a statue of King Rama V.
Phra Thinang Wehut Chamrun
A grand Chinese-style palace, known as the ‘Residence of Heavenly Light’, was a gift to King Rama V from the Chinese Chamber of Commerce in 1889. On the ground floor is an ornate throne room.
Ho Withun Thatsana
‘Sages’ Lookout’ is a brightly painted lookout tower. Climb the spiral staircase to reach King Rama V’s favourite viewpoint.
Wat Niwet Thamaprawat
King Rama V loved mixing Thai and Western styles. This Buddhist temple located on an island across the river is a Gothic-church replica complete with stained-glass windows, a steeple and statues of knights in shining armour standing among Buddha images. Take the cable car across the river.
Memorial to Queen Sunanda
A marble obelisk remembers King Rama V’s consort Queen Sunanda, who drowned on the boat journey to the palace. Thai law forbade courtiers from touching the queen, so nobody dared jump in to save her. The law was later changed.
Ayuthaya
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
8Information
1Sights
Million Toy MuseumMuseum
(MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑ์ล้านของเล่นเกริกยุ้นพันธ์; %081 890 5782; www.milliontoymuseum.com; Th U Thong; adult/child 50/20B; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; 
p)
Thousands of toys from across the decades are amassed in this private museum. Much of the exhibition is unlabelled, so it remains a mystery why rare porcelain elephants and retro racing cars are filed alongside mass-produced Shrek and Pikachu figurines. Still, the collection is in a pleasantly cool atrium, a refreshing change from sweating it out at Ayuthaya’s temple ruins.
We just pray the creepy soldiers and decaying doll babies don’t awake at night.
Bang Sai Arts & Crafts CentreCultural Centre
(ศูนย์ศิลปาชีพบางไทร; adult/child 100/50B; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Observe basket weaving, ceramic painting and myriad traditional Thai crafts at this cultural complex, 30km south of Ayuthaya. Whether you’re in the market for delicate silk purses or carved wooden furniture, it’s an excellent place to browse handmade souvenirs. You’ll need private transport to visit the centre from Ayuthaya.
TTours
Ayutthaya Boat & TravelTours
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %081 733 5687; www.ayutthaya-boat.com; cnr Th Chee Kun & Th Rotchana; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Combine cycling and paddling with cultural activities with reliable Ayutthaya Boat & Travel. Excursions include half-day cycling tours around Ayuthaya (1050B per person), day trips to Bang Pa In Palace by bike and boat (2150B per person) and two-day outings around the countryside, including an overnight stay with a local family (5050B per person).
5Eating
MalakorThai $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP www.facebook.com/malakorrestaurant; Th Chee Kun; mains 40-200B; hrestaurant noon-10pm, coffee shop 8am-4pm; 
a
W)
Touristy but satisfying, Malakor has a big menu, a great cook whipping up catfish curry and pàd gàprow gài (chicken with basil), and a relaxing wooden hut to enjoy it in. You will need to be patient with the service.
Sainam PomphetThai $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th U Thong; mains 100-150B; h10am-10pm; W)
Spider crab – either steamed or whipped into fried rice – is the house speciality at this excellent riverside restaurant. Fish ‘steamboat’ dishes (in a simmering tureen) are immensely popular too. Those who aren’t fans of seafood can tuck into a range of other Thai fare (try the pineapple spare ribs).
Lung LekNoodles $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Chee Kun; mains 30-50B; h8.30am-4pm)
This locally adored noodle emporium serves some of the most notable gŏo·ay đĕe·o mŏo đŭn (stewed pork noodles, aka boat noodles) in town.
Recipes have been finessed by owner Uncle Lek over more than four decades.
Pae Krung GaoThai $$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th U Thong; mains 60-1000B; h10am-9.30pm; W)
Seemingly half the punters at this riverside restaurant are here for grilled river prawns, though fried rice dishes and the catfish and mango salad are just as tasty.
Roti Săi Măi StallsDesserts $
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th U Thong; desserts from 35B; h8am-8pm)
The dessert roti săi măi (silk thread roti) was invented in Ayuthaya and is sold all over town, though these stalls fronting the hospital are the most famous.
Buy a bag then make your own by rolling together thin strands of melted palm sugar and wrapping them inside the sweet flatbread.
Foreign Quarters
Ayuthaya’s rulers were adroit diplomats and welcomed international merchants and immigrants. At its peak, more than 40 ethnic groups resided here. The Mon, Lao, Khmer and Chinese lived among the locals, and the Indians, Persians, Javanese and Malay were given land, mostly to the south of the island.
The Portuguese, who arrived in 1511, were the first Europeans to reach Siam. The Portuguese Village (หมู่บ้านโปรตุเกส; Samphao Lom; h9am-4pm) F contains a Catholic church and excavation site. Later, the Dutch, English, Spanish and French arrived, bringing arms and other luxuries and returning mostly with tin, deerskins, sappan wood and rice.
The Dutch East India Company (VOC) arrived in Ayuthaya in 1604 and set up a trading post here, hoping to use Siam as a gateway to China. Baan Hollanda (MAP GOOGLE MAP บ้านฮอลันดา; %035 245683; www.baanhollanda.org; Soi Khan Rua, Mu 4; 50B; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun) features an exhibition of Thai-Dutch history and the excavated foundations of centuries-old Dutch buildings.
And Japanese Village (หมู่บ้านญี่ปุ่น; %035 259867; 25/3 Mu 7, Tambon Kohrian; adult/child 50/20B; h8am-5pm; p), set within manicured, hibiscus-fringed gardens, details the lives of the estimated 1500 Japanese who settled here in the early 17th century. Some came to trade, but most were Christians fleeing persecution in their homeland.
8Information
Phra Nakorn Si Ayuthaya Hospital (%035 211888; www.ayhosp.go.th/ayh; Th U Thong) Has an emergency centre and English-speaking doctors.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (MAP GOOGLE MAP TAT; %035 246076; tatyutya@tat.or.th; Th Si Sanphet; h8.30am-4.30pm) Has an information counter with maps and good advice at the Ayutthaya Tourist Center.
8Getting There & Away
Bus & Minivan
Ayuthaya’s minivan bus stop (Th Naresuan) is just south of the backpacker strip, and has frequent departures for Bangkok (40B to 70B, ¾ to 1½ hours).
Train
Ayuthaya’s train station is near the river. For Bangkok, most trains stop at Bang Sue station (convenient for Banglamphu) before arriving at Hualamphong. Destinations from Ayuthaya include Bang Pa In (¼ hour, 16 daily), Bangkok (20B to 65B, 1½ to 2½ hours, frequent) and Chiang Mai (370B to 1850B, 11 to 14 hours, five daily) and Nong Khai (202B to 1750B, nine to 11 hours, three daily).
8Getting Around
Cycling is the ideal way to see the city. Many guesthouses hire bicycles (40B to 50B per day) and motorcycles (250B to 300B).
River ferries shuttle passengers across the water. The ferry nearest the train station operates from 5am to 7.30pm (5B).