Hallow-Wine: Ghostly Glasses and Devilish Delights

The dishes on this menu and the wines paired with them are delicious, of course, but they are also playful enough for an occasion like Halloween, which certainly doesn't call for being too serious. Eating food and drinking wine are great pleasures—so don't be afraid to have fun when planning a menu and selecting wines! I love planning dinners for wacky holidays, and Halloween is one of my favorites. I host a Halloween party every year and cook for at least 30 kids—the event has become legendary in my neighborhood. Halloween is near harvest time, so it's a great food time of year. Pomegranates are just coming into season, pecans and chestnuts are fresh, and there are lots of apples around.

 

Menu & Pairings

 

Frankenstein Mcclelland's Blood-Red Pomegranate and Goat Cheese Salad	2000 Barmès Buecher, Herrenweg de Turckheim," Riesling, Alsace, France
Witches' Bubbling Broth of Braised Were wolf Fish with Coconut-Lemongrass Rice	2003 Chàteau d'Aqueria, Rosé, Tavel, Rhône, France
Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Gooey Polenta and Haunted Forest Mushrooms	2003 Thunder Mountain, Bates Ranch, Meritage, Santa Cruz, California
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Candied Chestnuts	2004 Rosa Regale, Brachetto d'Acqui, Piedmont, Italy

Wine Notes

1ST PAIRING: FRANKENSTEIN MCCLELLAND'S BLOOD-RED POMEGRANATE AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD
SERVED WITH: 2000 BARMÈS BUECHER, "HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM," RIESLING, ALSACE, FRANCE

First of all, the name of this wine (Herrenweg de Turckheim) sounds like it could be an angry villager character in a scary monster story—and that's certainly a good reason to choose a wine for a Halloween dinner. Beyond that, we chose this because Riesling is a perfumey, aromatic grape variety with great flavor and nice acidity that works well with the richness of goat cheese and the tartness of pomegranate seeds. German Rieslings tend to run to the sweet side, but Rieslings from Alsace tend to be very dry—so if you want dry Riesling, get it from Alsace. You could also try a Riesling or a Pinot Grigio from the Pacific Northwest. Barmès Buecher is a wonderful small wine producer, but there are plenty of other delicious Rieslings from the region.

2ND PAIRING: WITCHES' BUBBLING BROTH OF BRAISED WEREWOLF FISH WITH COCONUT-LEMONGRASS RICE
SERVED WITH: 2003 CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA, ROSÉ, TAVEL, RHÔNE, FRANCE

We wanted to serve rosé on this menu because for so many people it's a scary wine! We've seen guests recoil in horror when they see pink, because they expect it to be so sticky sweet. In fact, most rosés are dry, and for wine drinkers who enjoy both red and white, they offer the best of both worlds: the crisp, refreshing qualities of a white and the earthiness and spiciness of a red. Combined, those qualities work really well with food. A dry rosé is a good choice with this dish because of the earthy, slightly spicy flavor of the curry, tamarind, and mushrooms.

3RD PAIRING: GRILLED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH GOOEY POLENTA AND HAUNTED FOREST MUSHROOMS
SERVED WITH: 2003 THUNDER MOUNTAIN, BATES RANCH, MERITAGE, SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA

Have you ever chosen a bottle of wine because of the label? So have we. This wine has a somewhat scary label that's perfect for Halloween. Plus, the wine is really good. It's a blend of Bordeaux grape varieties grown in Santa Cruz, which has a cooler growing climate than Napa and Sonoma. That means the fruit isn't quite as ripe, and the result is a wine that is lighter than typical California cabernets, but with lots of flavor and a soft, round, velvety finish. It works well with the sweet earthiness of the mushrooms. A Barbera from Italy or a Grenache would be a good alternative.

4TH PAIRING: DARK CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM WITH CANDIED CHESTNUTS
SERVED WITH: 2004 ROSA REGALE, BRACHETTO D'ACQUI, PIEDMONT, ITALY

This is a beautiful sparkling red wine that tastes great with chocolate (especially when the chocolate isn't too sweet, as in the case of this dark chocolate ice cream). Plus, its dark red, bubbling appearance is definitely right for Halloween. Another brand of Brachetto would work, as would a port or Banyuls.

 

HOW TO SEED A POMEGRANATE

I know people who've been cooking for decades who still struggle with seeding pomegranates, but it can be easy. Cut the pomegranate in half through the widest part of the fruit, then turn the flesh side against your open hand so the seeds can fall easily through your fingers. Holding the pomegranate over a bowl, use the back of a large metal serving spoon to pound the round part of the pomegranate, until all the seeds have fallen out and into the bowl. It should take a minute or two to get all the seeds out.

Frankenstein McClelland's Blood-Red Pomegranate and Goat Cheese Salad

The sweet, deep acidity of the pomegranate seeds cuts through the richness of the creamy goat cheese and plays off the nuttiness of the pecans. The anise flavor of the fennel rounds out this salad.

 

8	ounces (about 10 cups) baby spinach
	Seeds of 2 pomegranates (about 2 cups; facing page)
2	apples (preferably Cortland or Lady), peeled, cored, and diced
1	small red onion, thinly shaved
1	small fennel bulb, thinly shaved
1	cup pecan halves, toasted (below)
	Pomegranate Vinaigrette ([>])
12	ounces fresh goat cheese

In a large bowl, toss the spinach with the pomegranate seeds, apples, onion, fennel, pecans, and vinaigrette. Crumble the goat cheese on top and gently toss again. Serve immediately.

 

TOASTING NUTS

Toasting nuts brings out their best flavor. To toast them lightly, spread them evenly on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes in a 400°F oven. For more intense toasted flavor, bake for 8 to 10 minutes.

Pomegranate Vinaigrette

3	tablespoons pomegranate juice
2	tablespoons apple cider
1	teaspoon Dijon mustard
1	garlic clove, minced
1	teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1	teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1	teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1	teaspoon salt
½	teaspoon light soy sauce
¼	cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
¼	cup canola oil

In a small bowl, mix together the pomegranate juice, cider, mustard, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, thyme, pepper, salt, and soy sauce. In a separate bowl, blend together the olive and canola oils. Pour the blended oil into the juice mixture in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Adjust the seasoning to taste if necessary.

Witches' Bubbling Broth of Braised Werewolf Fish with Coconut-Lemongrass Rice

When we served this dish at a Hallow-Wine Monday, one of our guests told us she'd never heard of werewolf fish. Just to be clear, it's wolf fish—we just had a little fun with the names of dishes on this menu. Wolf fish is also known as ocean catfish. When choosing wine for your bubbling broth, save the really good wine to drink. While it's true that you should try to cook only with wine you'd actually drink, an inexpensive wine (think "two-buck Chuck" Sauvignon Blanc, which I would actually drink) is just fine for cooking here. In the fall I love cooking with local apple cider—if you can, look for cider at a farm stand near you.

 

1	teaspoon yellow curry paste
1	teaspoon tamarind paste
	Zest of 1 lemon
1¼	pounds wolf fish (ocean catfish) fillets, cut into 6 pieces
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
1	medium-size yellow onion, diced
3	garlic cloves, minced
6	shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
¼	cup sherry
½	cup white wine
1	tablespoon fresh lemon juice
⅓	cup apple cider
½	cup heavy cream

1. Combine the curry paste, tamarind paste, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Smear the mixture evenly over the fish fillets and let them rest in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap, for 2 to 3 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
3. Preheat a large ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and season the fillets with salt and pepper. Add the oil to the pan and heat for about 30 seconds (don't let it burn). Add the fillets to the pan and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden brown.
4. Remove the fillets from the pan and set aside. Add the onion to the pan and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Add the sherry and cook for 2 minutes. Add the white wine and cook for another 2 minutes. Return the fillets to the pan. Add the lemon juice, cider, and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Transfer the pan to the oven. Depending upon the thickness of the fillets, bake for 8 to 12 minutes (about 8 minutes for a ½-inch fillet; 12 minutes for a ¾-inch fillet).
5. Remove the pan from the oven, lift the fillets from the pan with a spatula, and place them on a platter. place the pan back on the stove over medium heat and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the sauce thickens slightly but is still fluid enough to pour easily. Spoon the sauce from the pan over the fillets. Serve with Coconut-Lemongrass Rice (recipe follows).

Coconut-Lemongrass Rice

Soaking the rice before cooking helps to pull some of the starch out of the rice, resulting in grains that are more tender. This is a simple and flavorful side dish that would work well with many chicken dishes and main courses with Asian-inspired flavors.

 

1½	cups jasmine rice
1	tablespoon butter
1	garlic clove, crushed
1	tablespoon grated fresh ginger
½	stalk lemongrass, chopped into 2 pieces and crushed with the back of a chef's knife
2	cups water
1	16-ounce can coconut milk
2	teaspoons salt

Soak the rice for 20 minutes in salted water to cover, then drain. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and rice and toast the rice for 2 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the water, coconut milk, and salt. Cover and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 20 minutes, or until all the liquid is absorbed.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Gooey Polenta and Haunted Forest Mushrooms

When I was growing up, fall was the time when we would slaughter pigs on our farm—so I always associate pork with autumn. Grilling the pork gives it a sweet smokiness that complements the mushrooms and the polenta that round out this menu.

 

2	garlic cloves, chopped
½	teaspoon paprika
¼	teaspoon ground cloves
½	teaspoon dried thyme
1	tablespoon maple syrup
1	tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1	teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2	pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each)

1. In a medium-size bowl, mix together the garlic, paprika, cloves, thyme, maple syrup, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, and black pepper. Rub the mixture all over the tenderloins and marinate the pork, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. Remove the pork from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.
2. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill. Or, preheat a gas grill on high for 10 minutes before grilling, then reduce the heat to medium-high. Grill the pork for 12 to 15 minutes, turning the pork every 3 minutes. Remove the pork from the grill and let sit for 5 minutes, covered with aluminum foil to keep the heat in. Slice the pork and serve it over Gooey Polenta, topped with Haunted Forest Mushrooms ([>]).

Gooey Polenta

3	tablespoons butter
1	shallot, minced
2	garlic cloves, minced
1	quart chicken broth
1	cup cornmeal
¼	cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Sauté the shallot and garlic in the butter for about 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the cornmeal and stir continually for 3 to 4 minutes. When it just starts bubbling, reduce the heat to low and stir every 4 to 5 minutes for about 30 minutes, until the polenta starts to pull away from the sides of the pan.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, salt, and pepper.

Haunted Forest Mushrooms

1	tablespoon butter
1	tablespoon olive oil
½	small yellow onion, chopped
3	garlic cloves, chopped
½	pound mushrooms (a mix of cremini, lobster, porcini, chanterelle, portobello, etc.), sliced
¼	cup Madeira
1	cup peeled ([>]), seeded, and chopped tomatoes
1	teaspoon dried tarragon
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and oil to the pan and heat until sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds.
2. Add the mushrooms and cook until they start to sweat, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Add the Madeira and cook until absorbed, about minutes. Add the tomatoes and tarragon, reduce the heat to low, and cover.
4. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender and the mixture is bubbling. Season with salt and pepper to taste before serving.

Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Candied Chestnuts

Grownups like chocolate and candy on Halloween, too, so this menu includes a deep, dark chocolate ice cream that is accented with the sweetness of candied chestnuts. There aren't many ingredients in the ice cream, so the chocolate you use really makes a difference. I like to use Valrhona or another high-quality chocolate.

 

2	cups milk
⅓	cup sugar
1	cup coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate
3	tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1	vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
5	large egg yolks

1. Prepare an ice bath ([>]).
2. Combine the milk, sugar, chocolate, cocoa powder, and vanilla bean pod and scrapings in a medium-size saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
3. Reduce the heat to low. Place the egg yolks in a medium-size bowl and whisk about ½ cup of the hot liquid into the yolks to temper them. When well incorporated, pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan and stir the mixture constantly with a wooden spoon until it's thick enough to coat a spoon, about 5 minutes (180°F on an instant-read thermometer). Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium-size bowl. Place the bowl into the ice bath and stir the mixture until it has cooled.
4. Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Serve topped with Candied Chestnuts ([>]).

Candied Chestnuts

1	cup water
½	cup sugar
1	cup roasted chestnuts (below)
2	tablespoons candied ginger
½	teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼	teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet.
2. Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a medium-size saucepan. Add the chestnuts, ginger, cinnamon, and salt. Cook over medium-high heat until the syrup is thick enough to coat the nuts, 6 to 7 minutes, stirring often to make sure the nuts are well coated. Transfer the nuts to the baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, until the nuts are a golden caramel brown.
3. Remove from the oven and let cool on a wire rack.

 

ROASTING CHESTNUTS

When buying fresh chestnuts, look for nuts that are firm and unblemished. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Use a sharp knife to make an X on each chestnut, slicing through the shell but not into the meat. (Do not skip this step, or the chestnuts will explode in the oven!) Arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 25 to 35 minutes (the larger the chestnuts, the longer the roasting time). Let cool, then peel and rub off all the skins. You can roast the chestnuts a couple of days in advance and store them at room temperature in an airtight container.