Autumn Mushroom Dinner

Foraging mushrooms is something I do every fall, and I've taught my team at the restaurant and my family how to do it. It's like a treasure hunt. When we forage as a group we always make dinner from the mushrooms we find. The scent of mushrooms always makes me think of the New England woods in the fall. Mushrooms go beautifully with all kinds of foods, absorbing flavors while lending their own subtle, sexy depth, so it's fun to create a dinner totally inspired by mushrooms.

 

Menu & Pairings

 

Truffled Leek Mousse with Gèpe Vinaigrette	1999 Westport Rivers, "Cuvée L'Espalier," Brut, Westport, Massachusetts
Seared Seallops with Shiitake Nage	2004 Sigalas, Assyrtike, Santorini, Greece
Give of Rabbit with Chanterelles and Spaetzle	2002 Derain, "Le Ban," Saint-Aubin, Burgundy, France
Bittersweet Chocolate Terrine with Warm Pumpkin Sauce and Shaved Black Truffle	1999 Traginer, "Mise Tardive," Banyuls, France

Wine Notes

1ST PAIRING: TRUFFLED LEEK MOUSSE WITH CÈPE VINAIGRETTE
SERVED WITH: 1999 WESTPORT RIVERS, "CUVÉE L'ESPALIER," BRUT, WESTPORT, MASSACHUSETTS

The mousse with truffles makes for a rich first course, and the dry, crisp bubbles of this sparkling wine, which Westport Rivers bottles for L'Espalier (though they make similar wines that are widely available), cuts right through that to cleanse the palate. Dry bubbles are the way to go here.

2ND PAIRING: SEARED SCALLOPS WITH SHIITAKE NAGE
SERVED WITH: 2004 SIGALAS, ASSYRTIKO, SANTORINI, GREECE

In Santorini this ancient grape variety is never grown far from the coast, so the wine has a zippy salinity that's perfect with seafood, and also great with mushrooms. Another crisp white, like a snappy Pinot Grigio, would also be nice with this dish.

3RD PAIRING: CIVET OF RABBIT WITH CHANTERELLES AND SPAETZLE
SERVED WITH: 2002 DERAIN, "LE BAN," SAINT-AUBIN, BURGUNDY, FRANCE

This part of Burgundy is better known for its white wines, but it also produces this terrific—and organic—Pinot Noir, which showcases the pure flavor of the grapes: earthy and spicy, with the essence of red berries. Pinot Noir is a good choice when serving rabbit, whose flavor is delicate and could be overpowered by a more intense wine.

4TH PAIRING: BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE TERRINE WITH WARM PUMPKIN SAUCE AND SHAVED BLACK TRUFFLE
SERVED WITH: 1999 TRAGINER, "MISE TARDIVE," BANYULS, FRANCE

A sweet dessert wine from the southwest part of France, this tastes similar to port and is heavenly served with chocolate. Port is a natural alternative here.

Truffled Leek Mousse with Cèpe Vinaigrette

Cèpes (pronounced "seps") are the French version of Italian porcini mushrooms. Their flavor is fantastic with truffles and leeks. I think people should cook with leeks more often. They can be used in almost any preparation. They have a sweet onion flavor that's light on the palate and they pick up other flavors easily. You might not immediately know there are leeks in a dish, but they round it out and give subtle depth.

 

4	large leeks, washed ([>])
2	marinated white anchovies
¼	pound chicken breast, chopped and refrigerated (very cold)
1	large egg, separated
1	teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning the ramekins
¼	cup heavy cream
1	garlic clove, minced
	Zest of 1 lemon
¼	teaspoon ground nutmeg
½	teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1	teaspoon white truffle oil
¼	teaspoon cayenne pepper
1	tablespoon chopped black truffles (canned, jarred, or fresh)
2	tablespoons minced fresh chives
	Butter for the ramekins
	Freshly ground black pepper
6	cups field greens
	Cèpe Vinaigrette ([>])

1. Place the bowl and blade of a food processor in the freezer so they will be very cold.
2. Remove the dark green tops and outer layer of the leeks. Blanch the white parts of the leeks in salted water for 10 minutes, or until tender. Shock them in ice water, remove from the water, and place on paper towels to drain. Puree 2 of the blanched leeks with the white anchovies in the chilled food processor, remove the pureed mixture to a bowl, and set aside. Clean the bowl and blade of the food processor and place in the freezer to chill again. Dice 1 of the remaining blanched leeks and set aside. Reserve the fourth leek.
3. Place the cold chicken in the chilled food processor and puree until pasty. Add the egg white and salt while pureeing. When the egg white and salt are completely incorporated, add the egg yolk and continue pureeing. Add the heavy cream slowly as you continue to puree. Then add the pureed leek-anchovy mixture slowly, followed by the garlic, lemon zest, nutmeg, white pepper, white truffle oil, and cayenne pepper. Puree until well combined.
4. Transfer the mousse mixture to a large bowl. Fold in the black truffles, chives, and diced leek. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter six 4-ounce ramekins.
6. Separate the layers of the remaining blanched leek. Lay the individual leek layers across each other in the ramekins, covering the entire insides of the ramekins. Season with salt and pepper.
7. Evenly distribute the mousse among the ramekins. Fold the ends of the leek layers over the top of the mousse. Place the ramekins inside a roasting pan filled with enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for 18 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 150°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the oven and unmold the mousses onto the centers of 6 plates.
8. Arrange field greens loosely around each mousse and drizzle the mousse and greens with the vinaigrette.

Cèpe Vinaigrette

1	teaspoon vegetable oil
2	shallots, minced
1	large garlic clove, minced
4	ounces fresh cèpes, or ¾ ounce dried, reconstituted cèpes ([>]), thinly sliced
1	teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
2	teaspoons champagne vinegar
3	tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1	teaspoon prepared mustard
1	teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½	teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
¼	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
	Salt

1. Heat a medium-size sauté pan over medium heat. Add the vegetable oil. When hot, add the shallots. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Add the sliced cèpes, stir, and cover. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the tarragon and remove from the heat.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, mustard, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and salt. Add the contents of the sauté pan and combine. Adjust the seasonings to taste before serving, if necessary.

 

WASHING LEEKS

The green parts of leeks tend to come with quite a bit of grit and sand. In this recipe you're using only the white part of the leek, but save the green part and use it for something else. To wash the green part, split it in half the long way and submerge it in tepid water for 10 minutes. Then use your fingers to make sure all the grit is detached. Remove the leek from the water, shake it dry, and slice.

Seared Scallops with Shiitake Nage

A nage is an aromatic broth, and here the fragrances of the mushrooms and scallops envelop you before you take your first bite. Try to find dry-pack scallops, not scallops bloated with phosphate-laced water. Lovage is an herb with strong celery flavor. It's great in broth or in spring rolls, stir-fries, flatbreads, or salads—and a little goes a long way. Sub in celery tops if you cannot find it. I like the aromatic quality of white pepper with the scallops, and with just about any seafood. It's great to have white peppercorns on hand in your kitchen, but if you don't, you can use black pepper here.

 

12	large sea scallops (about 1¼ pounds)
1	tablespoon olive oil
¼	teaspoon ground fennel
	Zest of 1 orange
	Zest of 1 lemon
1	tablespoon chopped fresh lovage
½	teaspoon cracked white pepper
	Salt
2	tablespoons peanut oil

1. Wash the scallops and remove their muscles if still attached. Soak in ice water for 1 minute. Remove and pat dry.
2. Make a marinade by combining the olive oil, fennel, orange and lemon zests, lovage, and white pepper in a large bowl. Toss the scallops with the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
4. Remove the scallops from the marinade and dust them with salt. Heat a medium-size ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the peanut oil. When the oil is hot, add the scallops to the pan and cook for 30 seconds on one side. Do not turn them.
5. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Be careful not to overcook— the scallops shouldn't spring back if you press them in the center. Remove the pan from the oven, turn the scallops over, and let them stand in the pan for 4 minutes before serving. Serve in bowls with Shiitake Nage (recipe follows) ladled on top.

Shiitake Nage

2	tablespoons butter
5	shallots, minced
3	garlic cloves, minced
¼	teaspoon ground cinnamon
½	teaspoon ground fennel, or 1 tablespoon chopped fresh fennel tops
4	ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
2	tablespoons Madeira
½	cup crisp white wine (such as Sancerre)
1	cup vegetable broth
¼	cup heavy cream
1	teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1	teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
1	teaspoon chopped fresh lovage
	Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the butter to the pan, and when the butter is melted, add the shallots. Stir with a wooden spoon until the shallots are golden brown on their edges, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the cinnamon and fennel and cook for 1 minute. Add the shiitakes and cook for 2 minutes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 4 more minutes.
2. Uncover and turn the heat up to medium. Add the Madeira and cook for 1 minute, or until absorbed. Add the white wine and bring to a simmer for 3 minutes. Add the broth and cream and bring to a simmer for 4 minutes.
3. Add the lemon juice, tarragon, lovage, salt, and pepper and cook for 1 more minute.

Civet of Rabbit with Chanterelles and Spaetzle

Rabbit has a rich, sweet flavor that is somewhat neutral, so it plays well off of other flavors. I grew up eating rabbit in the fall, so I always associate it with that time of year. In fact, mushroom foragers often hunt rabbit and hare in the fall when they're out in search of mushrooms. Rabbit with mushrooms is a longtime favorite combination at L'Espalier. Ask your butcher to cut up the rabbit for you.

 

2	garlic cloves, crushed
2	teaspoons dried basil
1	teaspoon dried thyme
1	teaspoon ground coriander
½	teaspoon ground allspice
12	ounces rabbit (2 hind legs and 2 loins)
3	large tomatoes, peeled ([>]), cut in half, and seeded
1	tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2	tablespoons olive oil
2	tablespoons lard or olive oil
	Salt
5	shallots, sliced
2	garlic cloves, minced
8	ounces chanterelle or other wild mushrooms, sliced in half
1	cup red wine
½	cup chicken broth
1	14-ounce can artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed
2	teaspoons dried rosemary

1. Make a dry rub by combining the crushed garlic, 1 teaspoon of the basil, the thyme, coriander, and allspice. Rub it all over the rabbit and let stand, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or up to overnight. Remove the rabbit from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before cooking.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
3. Toss the tomatoes with the vinegar, olive oil, and the remaining 1 teaspoon basil in a nonreactive baking dish and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the oven, let cool, chop coarsely, and set aside.
4. Heat a medium-size ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add the lard to the pan and lightly salt the rabbit. When the lard has melted, add the rabbit to the pan and cook for 4 minutes, browning lightly. Remove the loins and reserve. Cover the skillet and transfer it to the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.
5. Cook the rabbit for 15 minutes, remove from the oven, and uncover. Turn the legs and place the skillet on the stovetop over medium heat. Add the shallots, minced garlic, and chanterelles and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add the red wine and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer, then add the artichoke hearts, chopped cooked tomatoes, and rosemary. Cover the skillet, return it to the oven, and cook for 15 minutes.
6. Return the rabbit loins to the skillet and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and place it on the stovetop over medium heat. Remove the legs and loins from the pan, slice the meat, and return it to the pan. Let simmer for 4 minutes. Serve the rabbit with the vegetables and braising liquid, with Spaetzle (recipe follows) on the side. Or serve the Spaetzle topped with the rabbit, vegetables, and braising liquid.

Spaetzle

1 ⅔	cups all-purpose flour
6	tablespoons milk
2	large eggs
1	tablespoon whole-grain mustard
½	teaspoon salt
¼	teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. In a medium-size bowl, make a dough by combining the flour, milk, eggs, mustard, salt, and pepper.
2. Bring a medium-size pot of salted water to a boil. Press the spaetzle dough through a colander with ¼-inch-diameter holes directly into the boiling water. Cook for minutes. Drain well and serve.

Bittersweet Chocolate Terrine with Warm Pumpkin Sauce and Shaved Black Truffle

Chocolate and pumpkin is a surprising combination, and it's delicious and perfect for a fall dinner. Shaved black truffle on top lends sophistication and earthiness to this dessert, but you don't absolutely need it if you can't find or don't want to purchase black truffles.

 

1	tablespoon vegetable oil
14	ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1	cup (2 sticks) butter
4	large eggs, separated
5	large egg yolks
¼	cups confectioners' sugar
½	cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1	tablespoon granulated sugar
½	cup heavy cream
1	2-ounce fresh or canned black truffle

1. Brush a 1-quart terrine mold with the vegetable oil, then press a layer of plastic wrap into the mold, being sure to press the plastic wrap evenly against the inside of the mold and allowing enough extra to hang over the sides of the mold. Set aside.
2. Place the chopped chocolate and butter in a large heatproof mixing bowl and gently melt the chocolate and butter over a saucepan of hot water (make sure the water is only hot, not quite simmering), stirring occasionally. When the chocolate and butter are completely melted, remove the bowl from the heat and let cool just until the mixture is warm to the touch.
3. Stir in the 9 egg yolks, then sift in the confectioners' sugar and cocoa powder. In a medium-size bowl, beat the 4 egg whites and granulated sugar with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Fold into the chocolate mixture.
4. In a separate medium-size bowl, beat the heavy cream with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. Fold into the chocolate mixture. Pour the mixture into the prepared terrine mold, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until completely set, about 2 hours.
5. Remove the terrine from the refrigerator, remove the plastic wrap, invert the terrine onto a platter, and unmold. Slice the terrine, drizzle with Warm Pumpkin Sauce (recipe follows), and shave the black truffle over the warm sauce.

Note: This terrine contains raw eggs, and it should not be served to anyone with a compromised immune system.

Warm Pumpkin Sauce

2	cups diced pumpkin (below)
⅓	cup sugar
6	tablespoons heavy cream
3	tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
2	tablespoons maple syrup
2	tablespoons white wine
¼	teaspoon ground cinnamon
½	teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Combine the pumpkin, sugar, cream, butter, maple syrup, wine, cinnamon, and vanilla in a medium-size saucepan. Bring to a light simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and let cook for 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin is completely tender and falling apart.
2. Puree in a blender or food processor until smooth. Serve warm.

CUTTING FRESH PUMPKIN

Use a very sharp knife to cut off both ends, then carve around the outside of the pumpkin, removing the skin with the knife. When all the skin is removed, cut the pumpkin in half vertically, remove the seeds, and dice the flesh.