The common columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris)
THE SEASON AWAKES and you can almost witness the garden moving before your eyes, as foliage, stems and flowers start to unfurl, as if stretching after a deep sleep. Possibly one of the most exciting seasons in the gardening calendar, spring packs a real floral punch with a plethora of plants creating interest from March until May.
There is a sense of anticipation in the air as the garden awakes from its winter slumbers and gardeners feel like they’re at the start of another exciting growing season. Bright colours are the main ingredient at this time of year with so many groups of plants creating the wow factor in the garden. The bulbs start to push up through the ground, carpeting lawns and flower beds with colour. Firstly there are the daffodils and crocus, then hyacinths and bluebells and finishing off with the brightly coloured tulips. Another key plant group at this time of year are the spring flowering shrubs, which are predominantly the rhododendrons (including azaleas), magnolias and camellias. However, there is plenty of other interest out there, such as the wonderful tree peonies with their huge, richly coloured flowerheads. Love is in the air too with strings of bleeding hearts appearing in the flower border from Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectablis) with their impressive display of rose-red, heart-shaped flowers.
Fruit trees are also putting on their magical floral display in the garden, particularly apple, pear and plum blossom. The ornamental apple (Malus) and cherry (Prunus) trees also create another wow. For impressive climbing displays there are some wonderful clematis at this time of year, such as the evergreen C. armandii with its white, scented flowers and the spectacular wisteria with its huge racemes of blue, white or pink flowers.
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MAGNOLIA STELLATA, STAR MAGNOLIA |
MAGNOLIAS ARE OFTEN CONSIDERED TO BE THE ARISTOCRATS OF THE GARDENING WORLD, BEING ONE OF THE EARLIEST FLOWERING SHRUBS TO BE MENTIONED IN HISTORY. SOME PRODUCE HUGE FLOWERHEADS, OTHERS ARE EVERGREEN WITH LARGE, IMPRESSIVE, GLOSSY FOLIAGE.
Originating from Japan, Magnolia stellata is one of the more compact types of magnolia, making it suitable for small gardens or courtyards and balconies. They are also suitable for growing in containers. M. stellata is slow growing, only reaching about 2m after about ten years and about 3m wide. It produces scented, white, star-shaped flowers (hence the name stellata) in mid spring, although this species can be prone to form a pinkish variation of the pure white. It has quite a twiggy habit, which results in masses of flowers on its bare stems. It can also produce a reddish fruit (inedible) in autumn. Like most magnolias, they prefer slightly acidic soil conditions although stellata are more tolerant of alkaline soil than most. It should be planted in full sun or partial shade, but it does require a sheltered site to ensure its early display of flowers is not destroyed or damaged by strong winds and driving rain. M. stellata will also tolerate damp soil, as its original habitat is along the steamy sides and boggy ground of Japan’s largest island, Honshu.
Magnolias require very little maintenance. Keep the shrub weed free around its base. Avoid pruning where possible and only do so if it is necessary to tidy up a straggly looking plant, or to remove dead branches. The best time to prune is midsummer when the plant is in full leaf.
ALTERNATIVES
There are a few varieties of the species stellata worth trying, including M. stellata ‘Royal Star’ with attractive pale pink buds, opening to masses of elongated white petals. The variety ‘Jane Platt’ produces rich pink flowers that fade to pale pink, and has a delicate scent. Other types of magnolias to try include the early flowering M. campbellii, which produces huge pink flowers in late winter and early spring. However the tree can eventually get quite large so is only suitable for medium or big gardens. M. x loebneri ‘Leonard Messel’ is a smaller, rounded tree growing up to 8m high with masses of star-shaped, pale pink flowers. The two most popular evergreen magnolias are M. grandiflora and M. delavayi, both of which will tolerate dry soil. M. grandiflora is suitable for growing against the wall of house and produces heavenly scented, large white flowers that smell of a concoction of vanilla and lemon.
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PRUNUS ‘SHOGETSU’, BLUSHING BRIDE |
ORNAMENTAL CHERRY TREES PRODUCE SPECTACULAR DISPLAYS OF BLOSSOM RANGING IN COLOUR FROM PALE WHITE TO BRIGHT PINK. THE SIGHT OF THEM IN FLOWER IS SO IMPRESSIVE THAT IN JAPAN, THEY HAVE FESTIVALS TO CELEBRATE THEIR FLOWERING, CALLED HANAMI.
Prunus ‘Shogetsu’ (commonly Blushing Bride) is one of the most impressive of all the ornamental cherries and the best way to view them is looking up the tree against a clear blue sky. The eventual height of the tree is about 5m (16½ft), making it suitable for small- to medium-sized gardens. It has a typical ‘ornamental cherry’ tree shape with elegant, wide spreading branches, making it look like there are mini clusters of clouds held aloft above the garden. The result is a tree that is usually broader than it is tall, often as wide as 7m (23ft) across. Its common name is Blushing Bride, because the large, cascading clusters of white double flowers are tinged with an attractive pinkish red colour at first, but when they open fully are a pure white. The foliage provides an additional display in autumn with impressive tinges of red and orange.
Ornamental cherries prefer full sun but will tolerate a moderate amount of dappled shade. However, they require a sheltered position to ensure their blossom isn’t damaged by prevailing winds. They require a fertile but well-drained soil and hate having their roots in damp conditions. Keep the tree regularly watered after planting and mulch around the base of the trunk each year in early spring for its first few years, until established. Like the fruiting cherry trees, pruning should only take place when it is in full leaf. Avoid pruning when the tree is dormant during winter as it can succumb to disease.
ALTERNATIVES
P. ‘Shirofugen’ is an old favourite, in fact about 500 years old. It is a vigorous, wide spreading tree with large, double white fragrant flowers. An added bonus is the copper-coloured leaves, which makes an attractive contrast to the blossom.
‘Tai Haku’ is known as the Great White Cherry, and is probably the most famous Japanese cherry tree of all. It has large, single, pure white flowers with attractive copper-coloured young foliage. A few of these trees planted in a medium to large garden in full blossom is simply a breathtaking sight. ‘Ukon’ is worth trying as it has unusual semi-double pale yellow blossom appearing from early to mid-spring with attractive, brownish bronze young foliage.
If you want a cherry tree that will produce delicious fruit then choose ‘Stella’, which is a self-fertile variety with large, dark red berries in midsummer. It is suitable for growing as free-standing tree or in a fan on a sunny, south-facing wall. For ornamental Prunus trees with attractive bark, see here.
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MALUS ‘JOHN DOWNIE’ |
THERE IS NOTHING AS IMPRESSIVE AS AN ORNAMENTAL APPLE TREE IN FULL BLOSSOM. HERALDING THE CRESCENDO OF SPRINGTIME, THEY PROVIDE A DOUBLE WHAMMY IN THE GARDEN, FORMING ATTRACTIVE CRAB APPLES IN AUTUMN IN RUBY RED, BRIGHT YELLOW AND PINK.
Malus ‘John Downie’ is a very popular choice of ornamental apple tree not just with gardeners, but with gourmet cooks too, as the crab apple jelly made from the fruits of this tree in autumn is considered to be the finest. However, the main reason for growing this tree is the impressive blossom display in spring with pinkish flower buds opening to a spectacular display of white flowers. Large bright orange and red fruits appear in autumn. If they’re not harvested for cooking, they can be left for the wildlife to enjoy.
The tree is of a small to medium size with an upright habit, meaning it is suitable for growing in most small gardens. It can also be grown in a pot, but it is important to remember to keep it well watered during the summer. Malus aren’t too fussy about where they grow; just avoid compacted soil or boggy ground. Their ideal conditions are well-drained soil in full sun. However, they will tolerate some shade as crab apples don’t need to reach the same sugar levels as eating and cooking apples, therefore requiring less sunshine. This is why the crab apples produced by malus trees should be cooked before eating to make them palatable, due to their lower sugar levels. You could add sugar to them to make crab apple jelly, but they will also make delicious cider if juiced and left to ferment.
Most crab apple trees are self-fertile, meaning that you only need one tree to ensure effective pollination and a bumper crop of fruit in autumn. In addition, because they generally tend to flower for longer than true apple trees, they make effective pollinators for mini orchards and kitchen gardens. Their extended flowering season will also ensure lots of pollinating insects such as bumble and honey bees are attracted to your garden too.
Looking after an ornamental apple tree couldn’t be easier. Simply ensure that they have a layer of mulch placed around the base of the tree in early spring. Well-rotted manure or garden compost is the best material to use as they suppress the weeds, retain moisture around the root system and will provide the plant with some additional nutrients.
ALTERNATIVES
There are lots of malus to choose from; in fact this is probably one of the most diverse groups of ornamental fruiting trees due to the range of coloured blossom and fruit produced.
‘Golden Hornet’ is the other classic traditional ornamental apple tree. It has a broader habit than ‘John Downie’, and produces large white flowers followed by masses of small, bright yellow crab apples.
M. ‘Laura’ has spectacular dark red/maroon fruit and attractive pink and white blossom. It has disease resistance to scab and a dwarf habit.
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CRATAEGUS LAEVEGATA ‘PAUL’S SCARLET’ |
HAWTHORNS ARE ONE OF THE CLASSIC HEDGEROW PLANTS, CHOSEN FOR THEIR DURABILITY, EASE OF GROWING AND ATTRACTIVE SPRING FLOWERS. THEIR DENSE HABIT, ROBUSTNESS AND SHARP THORNS MAKE THEM A POPULAR CHOICE FOR USING AS BOUNDARY MARKERS
Hawthorns are as tough as a pair of old gardening boots. They tolerate most extremes of soil type, urban pollution and some shade. They can also cope with salty coastal conditions and exposed and windy sites. Furthermore, wildlife love this plant, often being used by birds for nesting and feeding on the fruits in autumn, while polluting insects, such as butterflies and bees, are attracted to their flowers in springtime. There are lots of ornamental types, meaning it’s possible to combine the plant’s practicality with beauty, however, due to its sharp thorns it may be worth avoiding if small children will be playing in the garden.
Crataegus laevegata ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ is one of the most popular ornamental forms of this robust plant. It forms an attractive, small, rounded tree, making it ideal for a small garden. It produces a profusion of double scarlet flowers in spring, followed by attractive red berries later in the year. The fruits can be harvested and made into jams and sauces. As the trunk matures it takes on an attractive, gnarled appearance. Hawthorns hardly need any maintenance; just occasionally prune off any dead or dying branches.
ALTERNATIVES
C. laevegata ‘Crimson Cloud’ is similar to ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ but produces large, single crimson flowers with white centres and small, bright red fruits. ‘Plena’ is also similar but produces double white flowers.
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CERCIS SILIQUASTRUM |
THE JUDAS TREE HAS SO MUCH TO OFFER, WITH ATTRACTIVE BUDS, SPECTACULAR FLOWERS, INTRIGUING LOOKING SEED PODS AND WONDERFUL AUTUMN COLOUR. FORMING A SMALL- TO MEDIUM-SIZED TREE, IT WOULD GRACE ANY GARDEN.
This showstopping tree is ideal for a small to medium garden. Commonly known as the Judas tree, it produces masses of pea-like flowers, which begin as startling magenta buds and mature to a stunning, rosy-lilac colour once open. They emerge on bare stems before the foliage appears, giving the tree a real wow factor when in flower. An additional attractive feature of this plant are the purple seed pods that appear later on in the year. The attractive foliage is heart shaped and has soft, buttery-yellow tones in autumn.
Originating from the Mediterranean, Cercis siliquastrum prefers a warm sunny site although it can cope with moderate shade. Avoid frost pockets that can damage the early spring flowers. The tree needs to be planted in well-drained soil. Avoid damp conditions.
ALTERNATIVES
Try C. canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ with its attractive, large purple foliage that feels almost velvety to the touch. It’s a wonderful foliage plant, creating the perfect foil or background to shrubs or herbaceous perennials with contrasting colours. A benefit of this shrub over C. siliquastrum is that it tolerates shade.
C. siliquastrum ‘Alba’ is a rarer but equally beautiful form of the Judas tree, which produces white instead of red flowers, and is worth growing if you can track one down.
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LABURNUM X WATERERI ‘VOSSII’ |
THE SPECTACULAR HANGING CLUSTERS OF GOLDEN-YELLOW FLOWERS ARE A FAMILIAR SIGHT IN SPRING GARDENS UP AND DOWN THE COUNTRY. LABURNUMS ARE VERY VERSATILE AND CAN BE GROWN AS A FREE-STANDING SMALL TREE OR TRAINED LIKE A CLIMBER.
The laburnum is very hardy and a traditional garden favourite. It is one of the highlights of late spring and early summer with its long clusters of fragrant, golden flowers almost dripping from the plant. Most gardeners grow laburnum as a multi-stemmed tree to maximise the amount of flowering branches, which add more interest and structure to a garden design. However, it can be grown as a free-standing tree where it can reach a height of up to 6m (20ft).
The laburnum is very versatile, responding well to pruning. For this reason they are often trained on garden structures, such as pergolas, against walls and fences and in large gardens used to create walkways or tunnels. One of the best examples is the laburnum arch at the National Trust’s Bodnant, drawing about 40,000 visitors every year in May to admire it. The arch is 55m (180ft) long, made up of 48 plants, which have been replaced over the years but have provided a continual display of golden flowers in late spring since 1882.
Laburnums aren’t too fussy about their soil conditions, and are a good choice for chalky ground where many other specimen trees won’t grow. Ideally, they prefer a free-draining but moist soil. They do require full sun though to encourage lots of flowers. Pruning is usually carried out in winter. On free-standing trees this may not be necessary, but if they are being trained up against a wall or arch then some structural pruning will probably be needed.
Understandably, many people have concerns over the fact that laburnums are poisonous, which often overshadows the beauty of the tree, and this has led to many of them being cut down and removed. It is true that all parts of the plant are poisonous, particularly the black seeds contained in the pods, and so it may be best avoided if you have concerns over children who are going to be using the garden.
Voss’s laburnum is a spreading deciduous tree and tends to produce fewer of the poisonous seeds than some of the species types. It has longer chains than any other laburnum, growing up to 60cm (2ft) and dark green, clover-like leaves. It is a hybrid of the two most common laburnum species, namely Laburnum alpinum (alpine laburnum) and L. anagyroides (common laburnum).
ALTERNATIVES
L. alpinum ‘Pendulum’ creates an attractive, small, weeping or dome-shaped tree, which is ideal for a small garden, making a great focal point.
L. anagyroides ‘Aureum’ is another attractive laburnum, this one forming golden-yellow leaves in summer as opposed to the usual dark green.
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CORYLUS AVELLANA ‘CONTORTA’ |
AS WELL AS PROVIDING A BOUNTIFUL SUPPLY OF NUTS IN LATE SUMMER AND EARLY AUTUMN, THIS QUIRKY-LOOKING SHRUB HAS BIZARRE, CONTORTED BRANCHES TO PROVIDE ARCHITECTURAL STRUCTURE IN WINTER AND BEAUTIFUL LONG CATKINS IN SPRING.
If you like the unusual and quirky, then you’ll love this curiosity: the corkscrew hazel with its exaggerated, twisted and contorted branches. It is a deciduous shrub, meaning that its dark, tortured and tangled limbs look their best from late autumn through to spring when denuded of leaves. It is much more compact than most other hazel trees, and will tolerate some shade, making it perfect for north-facing gardens or at the back of a shady flower bed. In springtime it produces long tassels of catkins before the green, round foliage appears. The contorted stems and catkins are popular with flower arrangers too.
It makes a superb focus point when grown on its own as a specimen in a small garden with its branches making a wonderful feature when silhouetted against a winter sky. It is also suitable for growing in a pot. However, it also combines well in borders when mixed and contrasted with other small shrubs with spring interest such as Corylopsis pauciflora, rhododendrons or small acers with attractive unfurling young foliage. Plants suitable for underplanting include winter aconites, narcissus, snowdrops and hellebores.
It’s ironic that this hazel should have such contorted branches, as the native hazel tree is often grown and harvested for its young, straight sticks, which are used as stakes and plant supports in the garden, particularly for creating wigwams for runner beans to scramble up.
The hazel is naturally a woodland plant, used to growing in the semi-woodland understorey of taller trees, so is tolerant of shade, but will also grow well in full sun. It is slow growing, and although it can eventually reach 5m (16½ft) high, this is only after a good few years and it can be kept in check with regular pruning. In fact it responds well to pruning as it encourages the fresh new growth, which has the best contortions.
ALTERNATIVES
If you’re going to grow a hazel tree with the intention of harvesting its nuts, you will need to safeguard against squirrels, which will quickly devour your potential harvest in a blink of an eye.
The traditional native hazel tree is C. avellana and there are lots of varieties to try, but my favourite is ‘Butler’, having large nuts with a strong flavour. Filberts C. maxima also make great features in the garden, produce larger nuts than hazels and ripen slightly early on the tree. Both hazels and filberts require pollinators to bear large crops of nuts.
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CAMELLIA WILLIAMSII ‘DONATION’ |
CAMELLIAS ARE THE QUINTESSENTIAL EARLY SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS WITH A RANGE OF COLOURFUL, LARGE, SHOWY FLOWERS. THEY ALSO PROVIDE YEAR-ROUND INTEREST AND STRUCTURE WITH THEIR DARK GREEN GLOSSY LEAVES.
Camellia williamsii ‘Donation’ is an old favourite and one of the most popular camellia varieties, dating back to 1941. This evergreen shrub produces large, semi-double, cup-shaped, orchid-pink flowers. One of the aspects I love about this variety is the profusion of flowers it produces. Shrubs will literally be covered with their blooms in late winter and early spring. It’s often described as compact but can get quite large, up to 10m (33ft) high, but they respond well to hard pruning and can be kept compact, ensuring the flowers are closer to the ground and therefore more easily appreciated. A good, manageable height for most camellias in the garden is about 1.5 – 2m (5 – 6½ft) high. The best time to prune a camellia is after flowering, but this is only necessary if the shrub has lost its shape or to restrict its size.
Camellias, like rhododendrons, require an acidic soil to thrive although they may tolerate neutral conditions. Chalky or alkaline soil is definitely to be avoided. If your garden has a high pH then you can still grow camellias in pots where their evergreen, glossy foliage makes for a wonderful feature. If growing in a container they will need to be planted in peat-free ericaceous compost to thrive and should only be watered with rain water (ideally collected in a water butt) in areas with hard mains water. They may also require a liquid feed of sequestered iron if their leaves start to turn yellow.
Remove fading flowerheads as they appear, as this will keep the shrub looking neater, but will also encourage it to produce flowers for longer into springtime.
ALTERNATIVES
There are loads of camellias to try. In fact, at Greenway in Devon where I work, we look after 300 different varieties and this is only scratching the surface of the diversity of this plant group.
Some camellias flower in autumn, such as the species C. sasanqua. The variety ‘Crimson King’ produces fragrant, single red flowers with a yellow centre. C. sasanqua ‘Autumn Sun’ is similar, with fragrant, single pink flowers.
C. japonica ‘Bob Hope’ is a popular spring flowering shrub with large, semi-double, deep red flowers.
C. ‘Cornish Snow’ (cuspidata × saluenensis) is an attractive shrub producing a profusion of small, single white flowers in early to mid-spring.
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RHODODENDRON ‘HYDON DAWN’ |
RHODODENDRONS COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES, RANGING FROM COMPACT YAKUSHIMANUM VARIETIES, TO LARGER SPECIES TYPES FROM THE HIMALAYAS. WHICHEVER YOU CHOSE, YOU ARE GUARANTEED A PROFUSION OF FLOWERS AND A HUGE SPLASH OF COLOUR.
There are so many rhododendrons to choose from, including both deciduous and evergreen azaleas. Some have the added bonus of being scented, such as Rhododendron fragrantissimum and the azalea R. luteum, while others have attractive indumentum (felt-like appearance) on the underside or topside of their leaves, often in copper, white or even gold.
R. ‘Hydon Dawn’ is suitable for small gardens as it forms a compact shape, reaching about 1.5m (5ft) high and across. It is one of the Yak-type hybrids (yakushimanum), which were bred for their small size and to produce masses of flowers. In fact, in springtime, it is practically impossible to find a place on its branches that isn’t covered. An evergreen shrub that produces amazing frilly, light pink flowers, it has the additional bonus of a blueish cream indumentum on its beautiful glossy leaves.
Like all rhododendrons it prefers acidic, slightly moist, but free-draining soil. It prefers dappled shade, but it will cope with full sun if the soil is damp enough.
Rhododendrons are in need of a publicity makeover. The invasive R. ponticum has caused problems in the countryside, smothering out any surrounding plants and opportunities for wildlife. Yet, most rhododendrons are fine to grow in a garden, and do not have the same spreading tendencies, making them wonderful flowering specimens, requiring very little maintenance. Many people associate rhododendrons with out-of-date, 1970s gardening, but thankfully woodland gardens are now very much back in fashion, and these are the perfect plants to replicate this style, requiring just one or two plants in a small- to medium-sized garden.
Deadheading as flowers fade makes the plant look tidier, extends the flowering season and encourages the formation of flower buds for the following year too. It isn’t necessary to prune ‘Hydon Dawn’, just occasionally remove a branch or give it a trim with secateurs if it loses its shape. During its initial couple of years after planting it will benefit from a mulch of rotted pine needles or peat-free ericaceous compost at the base of its trunk.
ALTERNATIVES
There are simply loads to try, in all shapes and sizes. ‘Hydon Hunter’ is similar to ‘Hydon Dawn’, but has bright pink flowers with spotty orange markings on the inside of the flower. If you want to try something a bit bigger than ‘Hydon Dawn’, try R. ‘Purple Sensation’, which is a medium to large evergreen shrub growing up to 3m (10ft), with rich purple flowers in spring and dark markings on the throats of the flowers.
If you live in a mild climate the medium-sized shrub R. fragrantissimum is a must. It has a gorgeous fragrance in spring produced from attractive whitish pink flowers with a yellow throat.
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KERRIA JAPONICA ‘PLENIFLORA’ |
KERRIA IS ONE OF THE UBIQUITOUS SPRINGTIME SHRUBS WITH ARCHING STEMS LOADED WITH BRIGHTLY COLOURED YELLOW FLOWERS. IT ORIGINATES FROM CHINA, JAPAN AND KOREA, AND IS NAMED AFTER THE PLANT COLLECTOR WILLIAM KERR.
Yellow is a popular colour in springtime, with daffodils smothering the ground and slightly higher up in the line of sight forsythia and the kerria shrub all flowering profusely and taking centre stage. Kerria is a deciduous shrub that is commonly seen in many front gardens in towns and cities, and often appears in cottage gardens, with its slightly sprawling habit and its high-impact colour. Sometimes known as the Japanese rose, kerria is named after the plant collector William Kerr, who introduced Kerria ‘Pleniflora’ in the early nineteenth century after being sent off to China by the East India Company to seek out new plants.
Kerria is perfect for illuminating a dark and shady corner of any garden with its brightly coloured flowers. One of its benefits is its ability to grow almost anywhere. So if you have poor, impoverished soil in your garden, this could be an ideal choice of plant. In fact, one of the downsides is that it can almost be difficult to get it to stop growing and it sends out lots of suckers, which will need to be removed to keep the plant in check. It is a tough plant, very hardy and will tolerate exposed sites.
‘Pleniflora’ is an attractive variety of kerria as it produces double golden-yellow flowers on its graceful, arching stems. The leaves are bright green, oval and toothed. It’s fast growing so if you want a shrub that will quickly cover an unsightly wall or fence then this shrub is ideal. Even though the plant is deciduous the dense thicket of canes produced during summer will provide some screening in winter. Thankfully, despite the plant’s vigour, it doesn’t get too big, reaching an overall height of 3 – 4m (10 – 13ft) if left unpruned.
Maintenance is very easy with kerria. Simply remove some of the older stems after flowering at ground level. Also, remove any other suckers that are starting to creep away from where the shrub is intended to be grown.
Kerria grows best in shade as the flowers can become slightly bleached in direct sunlight. Although it will survive in most soils, it prefers a moist but well- drained soil.
ALTERNATIVES
K. japonica ‘Golden Guinea’ and ‘Simplex’ are other popular varieties that are covered with single, bright yellow flowers in spring. ‘Picta’ is a more unusual type of kerria, producing silver variegated foliage and is slightly less vigorous.
Try the deciduous shrub forsythia for a similar splash of yellow in the garden, but slightly less vigorous than kerria.
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AMELANCHIER LAMARCKII |
AMELANCHIER LAMARCKII IS A WONDERFUL SHRUB OFFERING SEVERAL PERIODS OF INTEREST IN THE YEAR, RANGING FROM ITS MULTI-STEMMED STRUCTURE IN WINTER, VIBRANT COLOURED FOLIAGE IN AUTUMN, AND ATTRACTIVE BERRIES.
If you only have room in your garden for one shrub then this should probably be it as it offers so many seasons of interest. Snowy mespilus, as it is commonly known, originates from eastern North America, and due to its graceful habit it is an ideal choice for a central feature in a garden, or to slot into an awkward corner or space.
It’s an incredibly versatile tree and responds well to pruning, meaning it can be pruned to suit style and taste in an overall garden design. Most people grow it as a multi-stemmed tree by pruning it back hard when young to encourage lots of growth. However, it can be left to form an attractive small tree with a single trunk and wide spreading crown. Because of this versatility it is suitable for both informal, cottage garden-type gardens and formal settings where it can be used to punctuate plant displays with its architectural structure. It can even be used to create tree-lined avenues alongside urban paths and roads.
Unusually there are two seasons of foliage interest, as not only does it have attractive autumn colours, but the juvenile spring growth also has an unusual reddish or bronze colour. However, its main feature is its mass of white, star-shaped flowers. It is so impressive that a cluster or avenue of the trees in full blossom will give most malus a run for their money.
Snowy mespilus is relatively trouble free but it doesn’t like chalky or lime soil and can struggle in very dry conditions. The ideal soil is moist and free draining. It prefers full sun but will tolerate partial shade.
An additional benefit of Amelanchier lamarckii is that wildlife love feeding on the dark, reddish purple berries, which is ideal if you enjoy watching birds. The berries usually appear from mid- to late summer, have a sweet taste and are worth trying if you can get to them before the birds.
ALTERNATIVES
A. x grandiflora ‘Robin Hill’ is an upright small tree, which produces pink flowers that fade to white and are followed by dark purple berries. It has a showy autumn foliage display with fiery colours of orange and red. Its early spring foliage is an attractive bronze colour.
A. ‘La Paloma’ is an attractive large shrub with deep bronze foliage and lots of sprays of white flowers in spring. The foliage provides interest and bright colours in autumn.
One of my favourites is A. x grandiflora ‘Ballerina’, which forms a large shrub with bronze young foliage that turns orange and purple in autumn. In spring it produces racemes of white flowers and, later, small, reddish purple fruit.
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EXOCHORDA X MACRANTHA ‘THE BRIDE’ |
KNOWN AS ‘THE BRIDE’ BECAUSE IN SPRING THIS EXQUISITELY FRAGRANT SHRUB IS SIMPLY COVERED FROM HEAD TO FOOT WITH CLUSTERS OF PURE WHITE, FRILLY FLOWERS. ITS FLOWING AND CURVY SHAPE MAKES IT REMINISCENT OF A TRADITIONAL BRIDAL DRESS.
Often known as the pearlbush as its opening buds resemble pearls, this is a deciduous spreading shrub with a graceful arching habit. It is native of China and central Asia and is fully hardy. It only reaches 2m (6½ft) tall but can get up to 3 – 4m (10 – 13ft) wide. It works really well when planted at the back of a flower border, where its pure white flowers and oval, fresh green leaves make an excellent foil for brighter coloured plants in the foreground. Planting it next to a purple-coloured foliage plant, such as Cotinus coggygria or Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ makes a striking contrast.
If possible plant it near an outside dining area, patio or bench to enjoy its early summer fragrance, which will perfume the air.
‘The Bride’ prefers full sun in moist but well-drained soil. Avoid chalky and limy soil and shallow ground. Add plenty of organic matter prior to planting. It requires minimal pruning unless it’s necessary to contain its spreading habit. Some of the older wood can be removed immediately after flowering to encourage replacement arching young stems. Flowers appear in late spring and early summer.
ALTERNATIVES
‘The Bride’ is by far the most popular exochorda to be found in garden centres, but there are a few others worth trying. For example, E. giraldii var. wilsonii is native to central China and slightly rarer and has large paper-white flowers in late spring/early summer. Even rarer (but it shouldn’t be) is E. serratifolia ‘Snow White’, which is native to Korea and Manchuria, and produces pure-white flowers freely in early spring.
(Note: ‘The Bride’ is often confused with Spiraea arguta purely because its common name is the bridal wreath shrub. However, this spirea is also an attractive shrub, forming beautiful late spring/early summer white flowers on slender, arching branches.)
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VIOLA TRICOLOR |
DIMINUTIVE AND EASILY OVERLOOKED, OUR NATIVE WILD PANSY IS NEVERTHELESS A CHARMING LITTLE PLANT, WITH THE ADDED ATTRACTION OF SOME OF THE MOST WONDERFUL COMMON NAMES IN THE HORTICULTURAL LANGUAGE.
Only 15cm (6in) high, Viola tricolor packs a lot of colour into a small space, with a neat little face painted purple, white and yellow. It will first flower in spring but, through rapid self-seeding, will continue to produce new plants throughout the season that in turn will flower and set seed themselves.
It is an unfussy plant, enjoying sunshine and indifferent to a lack of water. It will just flower and seed all the quicker. Its self-seeding is rarely a real problem as it is such a small plant it will never outcompete the bigger, more fussy and exacting plants you might have around.
The most popular common name for this plant is ‘heartsease’ but it has also been known as ‘tickle-my-fancy’, ‘Jack-jump-up-and-kiss-me’ and ‘love-in-idleness’. Whether its association with matters of the heart is just a classical myth or a result of being gathered for free from the hedgerows by many a poor shepherd wooing an unsuspecting maiden we can never be sure. Shakespeare certainly thought it made a powerful love potion.
ALTERNATIVES
Modern breeding has transformed the wild heartsease into a number of pansy series with a wide range of colours and bigger blooms. The ‘Sorbet’ series, for example, are single colour pansies with no eye in the centre that flower in late winter and spring. V. x wittrockiana ‘Sorbet Black Delight’ makes a perfect foil to early yellow narcissus.
For a woodland and natural garden V. odorata, the sweet violet, is essential, colonising dappled shade by seed and spreading rhizomes.
14 |
AQUILEGIA ‘NORA BARLOW’ |
OFTEN REFERRED TO AS GRANNY’S BONNETS DUE TO THE SHAPE OF THEIR FLOWERHEADS, AQUILEGIAS ARE THE ARCHETYPAL COTTAGE GARDEN PLANT. THEY’RE SIMPLE TO GROW, COME IN A RANGE OF DIFFERENT COLOURS AND CAN BE EASILY PROPAGATED FROM SEED.
The bell-shaped flowers of aquilegia come in a wide range of colours and some varieties produce striking looking spurs at the back of the flowerheads. They are fully hardy and thrive in full sun or light shade. Their attractive, deeply-cut, decorative foliage looks great in summer, even when the flowers have faded.
Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’ is one of the oldest forms of aquilegia and is named after Charles Darwin’s grand-daughter. However, records of it date back to the seventeenth century, when it was known as the rose columbine. This one has dark green divided leaves with thickly clustered, spurless double flowers about 2.5cm (1in) across, composed of narrow petals of soft pink and white with green tips. It requires a well-drained but moist soil in full sun or partial shade. Plant in groups of three, five or seven for the most dramatic effect in the border.
Aquilegias are very promiscuous and will quickly spread throughout your garden. If you want to stop them self-seeding it is best to cut down the stems as soon as they have finished flowering. However, one tip to increase your planting stock is to allow them to turn to seed and then shake them over gaps in your planting schemes in late summer or early autumn. Their willingness to germinate will ensure that your beds are fully stocked the following year. They will cross-pollinate with other varieties and species, so if there are any other types in your garden, or those of your neighbours, you may find yourself with a brand-new, exclusive variety.
Aquilegias are clump-forming perennials and grow up to about 80cm (2½ft) in height. They are short lived perennials but easy to maintain, simply cutting back the stem after flowering. They look fantastic when their flowers appear to be hovering over spring flowering bulbs, such as grape hyacinths and daffodils. I like to see their attractive leaves contrasted next to bright yellow tulips or the feathery foliage of bronze fennel.
ALTERNATIVES
If you want the traditional, cottage garden columbine, then grow the plain species A. vulgaris, which is blue or white and has short spurs.
A. vulgaris ‘William Guinness’ has impressive velvety-red outer petals and spurs, with pale pink and white inner cup-shaped flowers.
A. vulgaris ‘Nivea’ is a white-flowered aquilegia with short spurs and ideal for cottage gardens or light woodland. It’s sometimes also called ‘Munstead’s White’.
For something a bit brighter try ‘Crimson Star’ that has bright red flowers with a yellow centre.
15 |
EUPHORBIA EPITHYMOIDES |
SPRINGTIME IS OFTEN A QUIET TIME IN THE HERBACEOUS BORDER, BUT THE PERENNIAL EUPHORBIA EPITHYMOIDES PROVIDES BOLD BLOCKS OF COLOUR, WITH ITS STRIKING, GREENISH YELLOW FOLIAGE AND ACIDIC YELLOW FLOWER BRACTS.
There are lots of euphorbias to choose from, but none so bold and bolshie as this early performer in the herbaceous border. It is an evergreen perennial, which forms attractive, rounded clumps of light green foliage. In spring the foliage is covered with effervescent yellow flowers that almost look acidic in colour. It is a really hardy reliable plant for the front of the herbaceous border, and ideal for creating interest at a time of year when little else is happening on the herbaceous perennial front. However, it can start to look a little scruffy later on in the year, so placing it towards the back of the border if nothing else is screening it in early to mid- spring is not a bad option. As it only grows to about 45cm (1½ft) high, it will then be hidden and tucked away when the summer herbaceous border flowers start to grow.
Euphorbia epithymoides originates in open, dry woodlands in Turkey and south-east Europe and can also be seen on mountainous hillsides. For this reason, it prefers a well-drained, light soil and requires full sun, although will tolerate light dappled shade if the soil is moister and enriched with humus. After flowering it is worth trimming back the plant to tidy it up and, depending on the summer climate, it may reward you with another flush of growth. Do be careful not to get the sap on your skin as it is an irritant. To create more plants it can be lifted out of the ground in early autumn and divided into sections before being replanted.
The bright yellow and green foliage of this plant contrasts well with some of the spring blue flowers, such as pulmonarias, bluebells, scillas and even forget-me-nots. Yellow bulbs, such as daffodils, also make great complementary planting. One of my favourite spring plant combinations is with Paeonia ‘Molly the Witch’ whose large, lemon-coloured flowers look great against the bright yellow of the euphorbia.
ALTERNATIVES
There are lots of E. epithymoides varieties to choose from if you can’t find the original. For something a bit different try ‘Candy’, as it has attractive, purple-flushed spring foliage; ‘Midas’ and ‘Sonnengold’ have almost golden-coloured flower bracts that look amazing during spring. ‘Bonfire’ has amazing foliage, which turns green and burgundy in summer, then deepens to red by autumn. If you prefer variegated forms there is ‘Lacey’, which has cream edges to its foliage.
E. amygdaloides ‘Craigieburn’, is known as the wood spurge, and as its name suggests is suitable for growing in the shade. The stems are an amazing burgundy colour and the young leaves at the top of the whorly foliage are a deep red that fade to dark green. In spring bright green flower clusters appear, creating a stunning contrast to the dark reds and greens of the foliage below.
16 |
VINCA MINOR ‘DARTINGTON STAR’ |
COMMONLY KNOWN AS PERIWINKLE, THESE PLANTS MAKE PERFECT GROUND COVER FOR THOSE TRICKY AREAS IN THE GARDEN WHERE LITTLE ELSE GROWS. THEIR SPREADING HABIT MAKES A BEAUTIFUL CARPET OF FOLIAGE AND FLOWERS, AND HELPS TO SUPPRESS WEEDS.
The common periwinkle probably wouldn’t be on the top 100 list for most gardeners, but there are a number of reasons why I rate this plant. They are fairly tolerant of pollution, making them ideal for sprawling and rambling in town gardens. They aren’t too fussy about soil conditions and they need very little looking after. This plant is a real grafter and just two or three will quickly cover a bare soil. So it’s the perfect plant for those people on a tight budget or a short on time.
Although they have a spreading habit, they aren’t too hard to control and are much less vigorous than the major species of Vinca. They are very hardy and will often flower all year round, including in the depths of winter. Ideal for many new-build properties with a load of building rubble buried just below the surface of the soil, it requires very little rooting depth. And surely this ground cover plant, with its attractive foliage and colourful violet-blue flowers, is more interesting than a lawn. It doesn’t need cutting once a week during summer either, making it very low maintenance.
It grows in light and dappled shade, although it does prefer a sunny location and will produce more flowers if provided with plenty of light. They are also fairly drought-tolerant. Another reason for loving this plant is its versatility, as it will grow up structures and on walls.
But the main reason why Vinca minor makes this book is because at the National Trust’s Greenway in Devon, where I look after over 3,000 plants, I get asked by visitors about V. minor ‘Dartington Star’ more than anything else. Visitors love it with its dark blue, almost purple flower, which appears to hover over the dark green foliage. The flower has five pronounced, individual, elongated petals that look so much classier than the standard vinca with its fatter petals. And it flowers for ages, almost all year round, although most of the flowers appear during spring. Even without the pointed, star-shaped flowers, the attractive foliage still provides interest.
Maintenance of V. ‘Dartington Star’ is very easy. They can just be left to their own devices, but I would recommend a light chop with a pair of edging shears (or a hedge trimmer if you prefer) a couple of times a year to keep the plant close to the ground and encourage a new flush of foliage and flowers.
ALTERNATIVES
The plain V. minor has lots of merits and is a great ground cover plant with glossy dark leaves and violet-blue flowers for most of the year. V. major ‘Variegata’ is sometimes also sold as ‘Elegantissima’ and is a sub-shrub that has oval, dark green leaves with creamy white margins and dark violet flowers. It is a great ground cover plant but can be invasive if left to its own devices. V. minor ‘Atropurpurea’ is an attractive, lesser periwinkle type with beautiful plum-purple flowers and dark green leaves. V. difformis ‘Jenny Pym’ is another attractive periwinkle, having light pink and white flowers. It is not as tough as the minor and major species.
17 |
LAMPROCAPNOS SPECTABILIS |
A WONDERFUL MID- TO LATE SPRINGTIME CLASSIC, THIS HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL HAS ROSY-RED, HEART-SHAPED FLOWERS LADEN ON LONG, ARCHING STEMS. THE BLEEDING HEART PLANT WILL MAKE YOUR HEART SING WITH JOY WHEN IT COMES INTO FLOWER IN YOUR GARDEN.
It’s amazing that such a tragically named plant, ‘bleeding heart’, can make so many people happy when they see it growing in the garden. It is one of the most commonly commented-on plants at the National Trust’s Coleton Fishacre, one of the gardens I manage, and I can understand why. The flowers literally look like plump little hearts strung out along a stem, but beneath the ‘flower’ hangs a white, drip-shaped extension, hence the name bleeding heart. The other name, which I much prefer as it’s much cheerier, is ‘lady-in-the-bath’ and if you turn the flower upside down you can see why it is so named.
Lamprocapnos spectabilis should ideally be planted in dappled shade in moist, well-drained, fertile soil. Not many herbaceous perennials are out in spring so it’s always wonderful to see this one appear, heralding the beginning of a new season in the herbaceous border. It grows to about 1.2m (4ft) high and is suitable for growing in the middle or back of the herbaceous border. It looks equally good in informal settings, such as at the edge of a woodland garden or in a cottage garden among spring bulbs, shrubs and early flowering rambling roses, such as the banksia rose. They are surprisingly easy to grow and perfect for lightening up a dark or shady corner in the garden.
Mulch around the plants in late winter to help retain moisture at the base of the plant. Cut back the foliage when it starts to die back from mid- to late summer, although in hot, dry summers it often dies back early, which is worth considering when planning a planting scheme, ensuring that other strong plants are nearby to hide the gap left by the bleeding heart.
ALTERNATIVES
The other bleeding heart commonly found in garden centres is L. spectabilis ‘Alba’, which produces pure white, heart-shaped flowers. My favourite is ‘Bacchanal’, which has dark crimson ‘bleeding hearts’.
18 |
PULMONARIA ‘BLUE ENSIGN’ |
QUIRKY LOOKING, SPOTTED LEAVES AND MASSES OF BLUE FLOWERS ARE THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS STRONG GROWING HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL. THEIR GREEN, SILVERY OR GREY FOLIAGE LOOKS GREAT WHEN CONTRASTED AGAINST OTHER FOLIAGE WITH BRIGHTER TONES.
Commonly known as lungwort because in early herbal medicinal history it was believed that the spotted leaves looked similar to diseased lungs and so would be used to treat pulmonary disorders, I cannot recommend this to treat lung problems, however I do suggest growing it in your garden, as it is a beautiful, tough plant and has the enduring ability to produce masses of flowers without even shuddering when there is a harsh spring frost. They make great ground cover plants with their thick, coarse leaves covering up any gaps in flower beds to suppress potential weeds.
Pulmonaria require a cool, shady place so are perfect for tricky corners in small town or courtyard gardens where beds are often shaded by nearby buildings. They’re also ideally suited to woodland gardens, or underplanting shrubs, and look perfect in an informal cottage garden. Bees love this plant as an early source of nectar and so are also suitable for planting in wildlife gardens.
Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’ is a particularly good variety, producing masses of dark, violet-blue flowers throughout spring, and has narrow, dark leaves.
They are fast growing plants and will benefit from being lifted and divided every few years to keep them looking fresh. Trim back the plant each year after flowering to encourage a new flush of growth.
ALTERNATIVES
P. rubra ‘Redstart’ has bright green, hairy leaves and produces masses of tubular, coral-red flowers in early spring. Sometimes it can flower as early as Christmas.
P. ‘Lewis Palmer’ produces clusters of pink, funnel-shaped flowers when they open and eventually turn to vibrant blue in mid-spring. The foliage is dark green with white spots.
P. officinalis ‘Sissinghurst White’ forms pure white spring flowers and white spotted foliage on its dark green leaves.
19 |
CLEMATIS ARMANDII |
THERE ARE CLEMATIS THAT FLOWER IN EVERY SEASON BUT ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR IS THE EVERGREEN AND FRAGRANT CLEMATIS ARMANDII WITH ITS LEATHERY LEAVES AND CREAMY WHITE, STAR-SHAPED FLOWERS.
This clematis was introduced to Britain in 1900 by the wild adventurer and plant hunter Ernest Wilson from China (often called Chinese Wilson). He risked life and limb to introduce many plants to Britain. I feel most guilty about this when relaxing at home at my writing desk with a window open, enjoying the evening spring breeze gently wafting in the almond-like scent from the armandii flowering on my outside wall.
This evergreen climber has attractive, long, deep green leaves making it an attractive feature all year round, but really comes into its own in spring when it produces masses of flowers that have an intoxicating but subtle scent. Although it is a climbing plant it does need a support system of wires or trellis. It is very slightly tender so it is best to train it up the south side of a building or wall where it can maximise the sun’s rays. Avoid exposed sites and frost pockets.
Clematis armandii should be planted with the top of their crown level with the soil. They like warm heads and cold feet, so try to provide some shade for the base of the plant, which will encourage the plant to grow upwards towards warmer climes. Add plenty of organic matter prior to planting to give it enough clout to climb high and sustain itself. The soil should be moist but free draining. The best time for planting is while the soil is still warm in late summer or early autumn. It may need occasional watering during the first year to get it established, especially in spring prior to flowering.
Maintenance is simple, just remove any damaged or dead growth once it has finished flowering. It may need retraining and tying onto the wall if it has got too overgrown. Avoid cutting into the old wood.
ALTERNATIVES
C. armandii ‘Appleblossom’ is one of the most popular armandii types, which produces masses of pink-tinged white sprays of flowers in spring and a vanilla scent. The opening buds are also an interesting feature with a more intense pink colour.
20 |
WISTERIA SINENSIS |
PROBABLY THE NATION’S FAVOURITE CLIMBERS, WISTERIA PRODUCE AN ABUNDANCE OF LONG RACEMES OF DEEP BLUE FLOWERS IN SPRING WITH AN INTOXICATING SCENT THAT CONJURES UP IMAGES OF INTREPID EXPLORERS DISCOVERING THIS PLANT IN EXOTIC LANDS.
There is nothing more evocative or romantic than sitting under an arbour with these sweetly perfumed clusters of flowers hanging down, gently swaying in the breeze. There is something almost dreamy, a sublime richness, and a luxuriant atmosphere whenever I encounter this plant. Perhaps it is because of its vivid colour, its sweet scent or perhaps simply nostalgia, evoking a sense of traditional Victorian gardening, combined with the excitement of distant lands. Or maybe, quite simply, it is the intrinsic beauty of wisteria.
Wisteria has a reputation for being tricky to grow because it has to be pruned annually. This is partly true, in fact it should ideally be pruned twice a year, but once the simple technique has been mastered, it will continue to perform and flower its heart out for years to come. The first prune is carried out just after flowering when the new growth is cut back to about 10cm (4in). This is simply to tidy up the plant and allow sunlight into the canopy to encourage the development of flower buds, which will produce more flowers the following spring. Later in winter the new growth is cut back harder to a couple of buds. This is simply to keep the plant tidier and maintain its shape.
Wisteria sinensis is the Chinese form of this plant. It needs a trellis or system of wires to train the plant onto. This species grows or climbs by sending out shoots in an anti-clockwise direction, yet the Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda) grows in a clockwise direction. It produces lilac-blue, pea-like flowers held together on long pendant clusters. Flowers appear before the leaves, as opposed to the Japanese species, in which flowers and leaves appear simultaneously. It prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade, so does best on a south-west or south-facing wall. Add plenty of organic matter into the soil prior to planting. It should be planted at the same level it was in the pot. Most wisteria are grafted onto rootstocks so ensure that the union (the bulge on the stem a few centimetres above the rootball) is above the ground.
ALTERNATIVES
The Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda) is similar to the Chinese version but produces longer racemes of flowers (up to 45cm/18in long as opposed to 30cm/12in) but they appear at the same time as the foliage. The variety ‘Royal Purple’ has scented violet flowers that can reach almost 50cm (20in) long in late spring/early summer. ‘Alba’ produces long racemes of white flowers and ‘Rosea’ pink ones.
21 |
ERYTHRONIUM ‘PAGODA’ |
THE DOG’S TOOTH VIOLET IS A BULBOUS PERENNIAL GROWING UP TO ABOUT 40CM TALL WITH STRIKING STAR-SHAPED PETALS. IT IS EASY TO GROW AND PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST REWARDING AND GRACEFUL OF ALL THE SPRINGTIME BULBS.
Erythronium ‘Pagoda’ is a stunning hybrid derived from one of the North American erythroniums. They require moist but free-draining soil and dappled shade to replicate their native, open woodland habitat. Therefore in the garden they are ideal for underplanting shrubs and small trees or placing in a woodland setting. They only reach about 40cm (16in) high so bulbs should be planted near the edges of woodland paths or at the front of a mixed shrub border to ensure they are seen at their best. They produce sulphur yellow, star-shaped flowers with reflexed heads suspended on elegantly arching stems. Their wide, mottled, glossy leaves are another attractive feature of this bulbous perennial.
It is a vigorous plant and quickly reproduces in the ground, bulking up into large clumps by producing young bulb offsets freely, and occasionally underground runners. Erythroniums prefer not to be disturbed once planted. However, if clumps get too large they can be dug up and divided in late summer and early autumn, ensuring the bulbs are planted back immediately to prevent them drying out.
Apparently the name dog’s tooth violet comes from the shape of the corm. The best time to plant them is in autumn.
ALTERNATIVES
E. dens-canis is the most popular erythronium and it has mottled leaves with rose-coloured flowers. E. californicum ‘White Beauty’ is one of the most beautiful varieties (closely related to ‘Pagoda’). It has pure white flowers with a red centre.
22 |
HYACINTHOIDES NON-SCRIPTA |
THE ENGLISH BLUEBELL IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL WOODLAND PLANT WITH ITS DAINTY, NODDING FLOWERHEAD AND DELICATE FRAGRANCE. OFTEN BEST SEEN EN MASSE WHEN NATURALISED IN WOODLAND, BUT THEY LOOK EQUALLY GREAT IN SHADY AREAS IN THE GARDEN.
Masses of blue, nodding flowers far into the distance is a wonderful sight to behold in ancient woodlands during mid- to late spring, but a similar effect can be created on a much smaller scale in the garden. Hyacinthoides non-scripta will fill the garden with a gorgeous fragrance and are a source of nectar for bees, moths and butterflies. Being woodland plants they prefer dappled shade and moist but free-draining soil. Their ideal location is beneath deciduous trees where the falling leaf litter in autumn and winter will replicate the forest floor where they naturally thrive. In smaller gardens they can be grown under shrubs and they do tolerate full sun if the soil is moist and fertile enough.
Bulbs should be planted in autumn at least to a depth of between 10 and 15cm (4 and 6in), and about the same apart from each other. To get the ‘natural’ look in the garden the bulbs should be scattered over the area and planted where they fall. Dig in organic matter such as leaf mould prior to planting.
Bluebells can also be moved during spring when ‘in the green’, which basically means while still in leaf. Dig up clumps and plant them at the same depth as they were in the soil before, which will probably be between 10 and 15cm (4 and 6in).
Let the foliage die back naturally after planting. Resist the temptation to cut them back after flowering as they need their foliage to photosynthesise and capture enough energy to send out flowers the following year. Don’t despair if bulbs moved while ‘in the green’ don’t flower the following year but instead only send up foliage. This is because the plant is focusing on re-establishing itself in the soil and it may take a couple of years before recovering from the transportation and being willing to flower.
The planting of Spanish bluebells in the garden is a controversial subject in the gardening world. They have larger flowers, which form on a sturdier stem, but have less of a fragrance than English bluebells. The problem is that they are naturalising in the woodlands and either swamping out the native plants, or hybridising with them.
ALTERNATIVES
Grape hyacinths (Muscari arneniacum) produce clusters of tiny blue flowers and make a wonderful contrast to yellow spring flowering bulbs, such as yellow hyacinths, daffodils, Erythronium ‘Pagoda’ and winter aconites. They can become a bit invasive and may need management to ensure they don’t overrun the garden.
Scilla mischtschenkoana ‘Tubergeniana’ is a dwarf perennial with strap-like leaves and attractive silvery-blue flowers with dark stripes. Preferring full sun, they are suitable for the front of flower borders or naturalising in grass. S. bifolia is another alternative with star-shaped, dark blue or purple flowers. These will tolerate dappled shade and are ideal for naturalising under trees and shrubs.
23 |
FRITILLARIA MELEAGRIS |
THRIVING IN DAMP OPEN GROUND AND MEADOWS, SNAKE’S HEAD FRITILLARY ARE FASCINATING, WITH THEIR CHEQUERED, NODDING HEADS LOOKING LIKE SNAKES’ HEADS REARING OUT OF THE GROUND IN LATE SPRING.
These attention-grabbing, fascinating spring bulbs make an impressive sight when their nodding, bell-shaped flowers appear in late spring. The flowers appear about 30cm (12in) above the ground and have a quirky and distinctive chequered pattern, with purple being the predominant colour, but there are lots of permutations of pink and mauve markings and stripes making each flower distinct. There are also those that are mainly white, which are equally delightful. They look at their best when naturalised in grass, but they do require damp conditions to perform well.
If your garden is on heavy clay soil or simply on damp, boggy ground then these native wild flowers could be your solution to providing a splash of colour in the borders or in the lawn. Most other spring bulbs, such as tulips, crocus and grape hyacinths, prefer a more free-draining soil.
Bulbs should be planted in autumn. If planting in grass, scatter them over the surface first to get a naturalised feel, and plant them where they land. They should be planted at least two times the depth of the bulb and at least 20cm (8in) apart from each other. Do bear in mind though that if you plant them in your lawn, you won’t be able to mow the grass until their foliage has died down, which might not be ideal if you only have one small lawn. However, they can be naturalised in a small, damp corner or even on the edge of the lawn near a hedge, assuming the soil is damp enough. The bulbs are fully hardy, fairly trouble free and will even seed freely if the conditions are right.
If you don’t have a lawn then you can try growing Fritillaria meleagris in containers, but they will need watering regularly to ensure the soil is damp enough for them to thrive.
ALTERNATIVES
I love F.graeca and I’m surprised it isn’t in more people’s gardens. It originates from Greece yet is fully hardy and produces nodding, bell-shaped flowers that are similar to the snake’s heads, but their colour is brownish purple with very distinctive green stripes. It requires full sun and good drainage but looks fantastic when grown in a rockery, gravel bed, dry garden or even at the front of raised beds.
At the opposite scale in terms of size to the dainty snake’s head fritillaries are the more imposing and larger crown fritillaries, F. imperialis. These bulbous perennials appear in late spring with their tall, dark purple stems over 1m (3ft) high, carrying aloft their large, colourful, bell-shaped flowers, above which sit clusters of leaves that look like a spiky hair-do (the crown).
24 |
NARCISSUS POETICUS VAR. RECURVUS |
ONE OF THE LAST DAFFODILS TO FLOWER IN THE SEASON, THE OLD PHEASANT’S EYE NARCISSUS HAS GORGEOUS, PURE WHITE NARROW PETALS AND A TINY YELLOW CENTRE WITH A RED-RIMMED EDGE TO IT. IT IS NOT ONLY SUBTLY BEAUTIFUL BUT ALSO DELICIOUSLY FRAGRANT.
You know spring has definitely arrived when the daffodils start to show their heads. Like a fanfare of floral trumpets heralding the start of the growing season, most commonly sold daffodils are loud, garish and brash. The majority are brightly coloured in egg-yolk yellow, with huge, almost iridescent petals and massive, elongated central trumpets in the middle of the flower, some of which are even frilly. That’s not a bad thing and it certainly makes a statement in the garden or surrounding landscape.
However there are simply thousands of daffodils to choose from. Pheasant’s eye is much more subtle than the common daffodil, straddling the middle ground between those narcissus that are almost so small, subdued and insignificant that you barely notice them, and the other, much bolder types. This daffodil still stands proud in the garden, but it feels as if it isn’t showing off. Its beauty and confidence speaks for itself with its pure white flowers and the hypnotic ‘eye’ in its centre that catches yours, almost fixes you as you walk past. You can’t help but stop and admire them.
It’s a late-comer to the party also. Most daffodils have been and gone by the time this stunner arrives to grace the garden and there is a sense of calmness in the air, the gentle, soft lull before summer gets into full swing.
It’s one of the aristocrats of the narcissus world and is one of the oldest in cultivation. Often called the poet’s daffodil (partly because of the species name poeticus), it has throughout history inspired people to wax lyrical about it.
Peasant’s eye requires full sun or partial shade and moist but well-drained soil. It has attractive, white windswept petals and tiny, red-rimmed yellow cups (the pheasant’s eye) in the centre. It naturalises well in grass and mixes with snake’s head fritillaries, primroses and cowslips in a wildflower mix.
ALTERNATIVES
N. ‘Actaea’ is very similar to pheasant’s eye and is often sold as an alternative. It flowers a few weeks earlier.
Another subtle but beautiful narcissus is ‘Thalia’, which is pure white with slightly swept-back petals and a sweet fragrance.
I love N. bulbocodium, the tiny, low growing, hoop-petticoat narcissus with its quirky flower shape. It’s like a funnel with tiny pointed petals. A real curiosity daffodil and a great talking point in the garden in early spring.
Another wonderful one to try is N. cyclamineus with its strongly swept-back petals. I always think that the yellow flowers look like lots of Bart Simpson heads on stems.
25 |
TULIP ‘QUEEN OF NIGHT’ |
THERE IS NOTHING SO EXUBERANT AND FLAMBOYANT IN THE GARDENING WORLD AS THE COMMON TULIP. THEY COME IN A RANGE OF COLOURS AND SIZES PROVIDING A WELCOME SPLASH OF COLOUR IN THE GARDEN EACH SPRING.
Tulips are usually grouped as goblet, bowl or cup shaped although there are more intricate forms too. In the seventeenth century the Dutch were gripped by Tulip Mania, a passion for buying up tulip bulbs for extraordinary prices, sometimes as much as the cost of a small house. Thankfully, bulbs are much cheaper now, and are now very much affordable.
Tulip ‘Queen of Night’ offers something a bit different to the traditional bright splash of colour. It offers a darker side, a contrast to the crazy colour combination of traditional tulip displays. The dark purple, almost black, cup-shaped flowers appear on single straight stems making it a great plant for the cut flower border.
Like most tulips they need a warm, sheltered site and require warm dry springs and a cold winter. Tulips prefer free-draining soil to prevent them rotting in the soil and developing fungal diseases so add plenty of grit or gravel into any heavy soil before planting. The bulbs should be planted in autumn before the arrival of hard frosts at a depth of three times the size of the bulb and about 10cm (4in) apart.
Tulips are perennial but most gardeners tend to treat the ‘hybrid’ types as annuals by digging them up after flowering and replanting the largest bulbs in autumn. Some gardeners use them like bedding and literally chuck them away and buy in new bulbs each autumn. The reason for this is that most hybrid tulips don’t provide such a good display the following year. The type of bulbs known as ‘species’ are treated differently and remain in the ground from year to year.
Try doing a 50:50 mix with Tulip ‘Ivory Floradale’ for a simple but wonderful vanilla and chocolate colour combination.
ALTERNATIVES
An alternative dark tulip to ‘Queen of Night’ is a hybrid called ‘Black Parrot’ which has deep purple but twisted petals. For something a bit different try one of the wacky stripy varieties, such as ‘Burning Heart’ which has attractive creamy white flowers streaked with red. ‘Burgundy Lace’ is a graceful, glamorous tulip with beautiful deep red petals and fringed edges, while the variety ‘Menton’ is a classically-shaped tulip with pinkish red flowers with subtle orange hues.
Exochorda x macrantha ‘The Bride’
Magnolia stellata
Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’
Clematis armandii
Wisteria sinensis
Euphorbia polychroma
Erythronium ‘Pagoda’
Hyacinthoides non-scripta
Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’
Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s eye’
Viola tricolor
Vinca ‘Dartington Star’
This is a typical spring mixed border, with a blue, yellow and white theme that will brighten up the early part of the year. The flowering canopies of the Magnolia and Exochorda are underplanted with classic spring ground cover plants, such as Vinca and Pulmonaria, carpeting the border with foliage and flowers, along with delightful spring bulbs. This border will thrive in full sun or part shade.
• Plant and train Wisteria sinensis to climb the back wall or fence in one direction and the Clematis armandii in the other.
• Plant Exochorda x macrantha ‘The Bride’ towards the back slightly off centre and the Magnolia stellata to the left but a little further towards the front. The third shrub Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’ which will provide showy catkins in spring as well as melodramatic structure can then be placed on the right hand side to complete the triangle.
• Hyacinthoides non-scripta and Vinca ‘Dartington Star’ can be arranged in drifts along the back. In front of these the bright yellow Euphorbia polychrome and Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’ will make a wonderful combination and backdrop to the dainty blooms of Viola tricolour and Erythronium ‘Pagoda’, which truly deserve their star position at the front of the border.
Any gaps can be filled in with natural drifts of Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ and for a later splash of stronger colour, Tulip ‘Queen of Night.’
WHATEVER SIZE YOUR SPACE, THERE IS A PERFECT WAY TO COMBINE THE PLANTS IN THIS CHAPTER TO CREATE A PERFECT SPRING DISPLAY. CHOOSE BETWEEN A DAZZLING DEEP BORDER, A TIDY CORNER OR EVEN AN ISLAND BED.
Perfect for a shaded corner this simple planting scheme will bring delicate colour and elegance to any garden. Avoid placing the camellia where it will get early morning sun, but otherwise all these plants need only a few hours sunlight each day to perform.
• Plant Camellia williamsii ‘Donation’ at the back and a triangle of Lamprocampsis spectabilis in front, to show off its nodding, heart-shaped flowers. Fill any remaining gaps with natural drifts of Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’ and the delicate Fritillaria meleagris.
Camellia williamsii ‘Donation’
Lamprocampsis spectabilis
Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’
Fritillaria meleagris
If space is limited this simple scheme will give the all the best spring has to offer without using up too much valuable space.
• Plant Prunus ‘Shogetsu’ in the centre of the bed for blossom in spring and autumn colour later on. Underplant with mixed bulbs such as Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ and Tulip ‘Queen of Night’, which will contrast well with the pure white cherry blossom.
Prunus ‘Shogetsu’
Mixed bulbs – Narcissus and Tulip
Probably the most important element of growing a plant successfully is placing it in the right location, with the correct amount of sunlight, suitable soil and ensuring it is hardy or tough enough to survive surrounding elements, such as frosts, prevailing winds and sea salt spray. Before running off to the garden centre to stock your garden full of plants, it is worth considering what conditions you have at home. Some plants, such as hawthorn are as tough as old boots and will tolerate anything nature will throw at them. Others are more refined and expect to be treated with respect. If you don’t do this, they will either sit in the soil and sulk or, even worse, curl up and die.
Take time to study your garden and where the light falls. Look at it at different times of the day to see where the shadows and sunrays appear as the sun follows its trajectory during the course of the day, from rising in the east to setting in the west.
A garden facing south or south-west will receive the most amount of sun in the northern hemisphere. Of course, there are elements that can block the light such as a nearby building or large tree, but as a general rule of thumb, a south or south-west facing garden will be the warmest.
If the garden is on a south-west or south-facing slope then that is even better. This is why the best vineyards are always on south-facing slopes as they lie angled like solar panels maximising the sun’s rays, enabling the grapes to ripen to their maximum. However, do be aware that the bottom of a slope can also be a frost pocket as the warm air rises and leaves the cold air below it. If there is a hedge or wall at the bottom of the slope, this will prevent the cold air rolling away and traps it. So, avoid planting anything tender at the bottom of a slope.
Before starting to plant it is important the soil is checked to see what plants will be suitable for growing in it.
South-west or south-facing walls are nearly always sun traps, making them ideal for plants that love it hot and dry.
North-facing gardens are often the shadiest as the sun often doesn’t appear. However, there are loads of shade-loving plants, and many of them are maintenance free as they won’t require the same amount of watering as those basking in the sun on the south side.
Once you’ve figured out how much sunlight your garden will receive, you also need to check the type of soil you have. Garden plants have all evolved from wild specimens, and many will still be quite particular about the conditions and crave an environment similar to their original habitat.
Firstly, check whether you have clay, loam or sandy soil. Clay soil is usually fertile but heavy, making it hard to dig. Unfortunately it tends to bake hard in the summer and get waterlogged in the winter due to its bad water-draining qualities. Sand is the opposite, usually being low in fertility and nutrients as it gets washed away too quickly. Plants tend to dry out quickly too as the sandy conditions are so free draining. The ideal soil for most plants is loam, as it combines the best of both clay and sand attributes, usually being fairly free draining but not so much that it can’t retain nutrients. Of course, there are some plants that will like the extremes, so it’s worth checking on the plant label as to what type of soil it prefers.
Making sure you have the correct soil to suit the plant is essential before you start to sow any seeds.
Take a sample of soil from the garden and try to roll it into a ball. If it does roll into a ball then it is clay. If it won’t then it is sand.
Next try to roll it into a sausage shape. If it still holds its shape then it has a high clay content. If it breaks and crumbles then it is a loamy consistency.
Soil can be improved by adding organic matter into the ground, such as garden compost or rotted horse manure. The drainage of heavy clay soil can be improved by adding grit or sand.
It is also important to check the acidic/alkaline levels of the soil as some plants are very sensitive to these. The most common examples are rhododendrons and camellias that require acidic soil. Soil testing kits can be bought, which will tell you what conditions you have, but another good way of telling what you have is to look at surrounding gardens. If you see lots of rhododendrons, camellias or heathers then it will tell you that the predominant soil in your area is acidic. If nobody is growing such plants then you can probably assume that the conditions aren’t suitable. Of course is it still possible that you may have isolated pockets of acidic or alkaline conditions in your own garden, so if you’re unsure then use a testing kit.
Bulbs are wonderful plants for brightening up most areas in the garden. Most are associated with flowering in spring, such as tulips, daffodils and crocus, but there are bulbs for all seasons. Technically, there are different types of ‘bulbs’, such as corms and tubers, but whatever their scientific category, they are all just basically underground sources of food and energy and are generally treated in exactly the same way. I’ve just categorised them all as ‘bulbs’ in this book to simplify things.
Do remember that very often bulbs need to be left to die down naturally after flowering, so avoid cutting back their foliage. This is worth considering when planting them, as their dying foliage can look scruffy if you’ve planted them as a centrepiece in your neat lawn or at the front of your border. Some top tips for planting bulbs:
Make sure that the bulbs are the right way up. Usually they have a pointed tip, which should face upwards towards the sky.
To get a naturalised effect, scatter the bulbs on the lawn and plant them where they fall, using either a trowel or a bulb planter.
Bulbs are an easy and cheap solution to providing lots of colourful interest in the garden in springtime.
When planting in a lawn add some leaf mould or general compost into each hole. Alternatively if planting in a flower bed, the entire area can be dug over first and compost added.
Most bulbs like moist but free-draining soil. If the soil is heavy, such as with high clay content, then the bulbs could rot in the ground. If this is the case, add a sprinkling of grit or horticultural sand into each hole with the bulb. There are a few exceptions, such as snake’s head fritillaries, which thrive in damp, moist conditions.
Water the bulbs once planted if a dry spell is expected. Otherwise let the rain do the watering for you.
Most bulbs are usually planted at a depth of about two or three times their size. However, there are a few exceptions such as begonias which like to be near the surface, and tulips like to be quite deep.
Most spring and summer flowering bulbs are planted in autumn, such as daffodils, tulips, alliums. However there are few exceptions, such as dahlias, snowdrops, bluebells, gladioli and begonias, which are usually planted in spring. Bluebells and snowdrops are best planted ‘in the green’, when already in leaf.
Too deep and it may rot, too shallow and it could dry out.
|
Allium bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart |
in full sun |
|
Begonia bulbs |
1cm (½in) deep and 30cm (12in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Crocus bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 7cm (2½in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Daffodil bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Dahlia bulbs |
15cm (6in) deep and 45cm (18in) apart |
in full sun |
|
Bluebell bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart |
in dappled shade |
|
Hyacinth bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 8cm (3in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Iris reticulata bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 8cm (3in) apart |
in full sun |
|
Lily bulbs |
20cm (8in) deep and 15cm (6in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Narcissus bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
|
Snowdrop bulbs |
10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart |
in dappled shade |
|
Tulip bulbs |
15cm (6in) deep and 13cm (5in) apart |
in full sun |
|
Winter aconite bulbs |
5cm (2in) deep and 5cm (2in) apart |
in full sun or dappled shade |
