Musée des Arts et Métiers and Around
Panthéon, Jardin du Luxembourg and Around
Parc de la Villette and Around
Jardin d’Acclimatation and Around
Twirl around the square in front of the cathedral like Esmerelda, the gypsy dancer in Victor Hugo’s novel Notre Dame de Paris (1831), and stroll along the quayside. Square Jean XXIII, behind Notre-Dame, is a pretty park with a sandpit. In summer, head for the Paris-Plages on the Right Bank, when the main road along the river is transformed into “beaches” with real sand, water fountains and activities. In winter, go skating at the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Flick through English books in Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005) and in the green boxes of the Bouquinistes, who have been selling books on the Seine’s banks since the 16th century. After the Revolution they peddled entire libraries that had been seized from noble families.
The cathedral’s website www.notredamedeparis.fr/Children-s-site has a children’s corner. Watch the video General de Gaulle at Notre Dame on 26 August 1944 at http://tinyurl.com/3jyujw5 and King Babar hunting Father Christmas in Paris in the Babar Christmas Special at http://tinyurl.com/3v7gvto. Discover Roman Paris at www.paris.culture.fr/en/
Disney’s Hunchback of Notre Dame (1996) will show kids how the cathedral dominated medieval Paris.
Visit the Crypte Archéologique (Pl Jean Paul II, Parvis de Notre-Dame, 75004; 01 55 42 50 10; www.crypte.paris.fr) in front of Notre-Dame. The city’s Roman remains, as well as medieval shops and pavements, can be seen here. The Mémorial des Martyrs de la Déportation (Sq de l’Ile de France, 75004; 01 46 33 87 56) behind the cathedral commemorates the deportation of 200,000 men, women and children to Nazi concentration camps.
The nearest bridge, Pont au Double, is a nice place to promenade and watch the rollerbladers swing by. It was originally built in 1623–34 to take patients to the Hôtel Dieu hospital; they were charged double the normal crossing toll, hence the name. The bridge leads over to Square René Viviani on the Left Bank, which is good for a run-about and has free Wi-Fi. It is home to the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1601. The tree’s upper branches were blown off by a shell in World War I.
Stroll along the Seine like King Babar in search of Father Christmas but do not, like Madeline, end up in it – she was standing on the Pont au Double’s balustrades when she fell.
Across the Petit Pont from the square in front of Notre-Dame is the wonderfully eccentric bookstore Shakespeare and Company. After a shot of culture, unwind in one of the cafés nearby. On Monday nights, look out for famous authors, who are invited for a drink before the weekly reading in the shop.
Gaze in wonder at the dizzyingly high ceiling and stunning stained glass inside Sainte-Chapelle, a Gothic masterpiece restored by Viollet-le-Duc and others in the mid-19th century.
There is a playground on Square Albert Schweitzer and the pleasant garden of Square Barye, by Pont de Sully. Quai de Bourbon is a nice spot for a quick sit-down before walking across Pont des Tournelles to see the statue of the city’s patron saint, Saint Geneviève, who, according to legend, saved Paris from destruction by Attila the Hun.
If the sun is too strong or the weather turns nasty, head east. The winding medieval streets of the Marais are full of fascinating shops and lovely cafés.
After a lesson in history, watch people playing boules (a game played with metal balls) and kick a ball around in Place Dauphine (enter by Rue Henri-Robert, 75001), laid out by Henri IV to honour his son and heir, Louis. In the summer, admire the storybook towers of the Conciergerie and build sandcastles on the Right Bank during the popular Paris-Plages.
Just across the Seine on the Left Bank is a lively shopping street, the Rue St-André des Arts, or head to the Right Bank for boutique shops along Rue de Rivoli.
Find videos, games and puzzles for kids on the French Revolution at www.neok12.com/French-Revolution.htm. Games for children based around France’s top tourist sights can be found at www.monuments-nationaux.fr/enfants/home_en.htm
In The Scarlet Pimpernel (1934), a British aristocrat runs secret missions to rescue the condemned, including Louis XVII, in Robespierre’s Paris. The cartoon version of Charles Dickens’ novel A Tale of Two Cities (2002) is set in Paris and London during the Revolution.
After all that history it is fun to do something completely different. The crazy, modernist Centre Pompidou is a 15-minute walk across Pont au Change and up Boulevard Sébastopol. Marvel at the coloured pipes on the outisde of the building. Enjoy watching some entertaining street theatre here before riding up the bubble-like escalators to admire the lovely views.
The pretty Place Dauphine, laid out in 1607 by Henri IV and named after the Dauphin, the future Louis XIII, is an elegant square in which to kick a ball around.
One of the most magical spots in Paris, the Square du Vert-Galant is excellent for a picnic and a run around. Try to imagine what the locals felt like seeing the Vikings rowing towards them here in AD 845. This is also the point from which the Vedettes du Pont Neuf pleasure boats depart.
Place Georges Pompidou, in front of the museum, is fun. Kids will love the sculptures of magical monsters on the Stravinsky Fountain in Place Igor Stravinsky.
Visit the interactive site www.junior.centrepompidou.fr for games and information on exhibits, in English and French.
Watch Mon Oncle (1958). In this film, French filmmaker Jacques Tati makes fun of Parisians who love anything modern – rather like Georges Pompidou.
Not So Big (38 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002; www.notsobig.fr) is a concept store for kids. A La Poupée Merveilleuse (9 Rue du Temple, 75004; www.fete–paris.com) sells party trinkets and games for kids.
After a tour of the Centre Pompidou, set out to explore the nearby Marais area, a maze of winding streets full of designer boutiques, art galleries, cafés and shops. Let the children let off steam in the beautiful Place des Vosges, then head north towards Rue Montorgueil, one of the trendiest streets in Paris, full of market stalls and bakeries.
Once a fortified enclave of the Knights Templar, the pretty Square du Temple (64 Rue de Bretagne, 75003) has a lovely garden with an adjoining children’s playground, and is a favourite picnic spot.
Brush up your knowledge of science at www.bbc.co.uk/schools/scienceclips/index_flash.shtml. For chemistry, check out www.chemistryforkids.net and www.physics4kids.com for physics. Watch the first great steps in aviation history on http://tinyurl.com/3e43juo.
The area around Métro Etienne Marcel has trendy shops. The Passage de Grand Cerf just north of the Rue de Turbigo is a pretty, covered arcade dating from 1825.
The museum is close to Porte St-Denis (Blvd St-Denis, 75003), the huge 17th-century arch that replaced one of the gates in the medieval city walls, once one of the entrances into Paris. Walk down Rue Beaubourg to the Centre Pompidou.
There is a crazy collection of stuffed animals and guns at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (62 Rue des Archives, 75003; www.chassenature.org). Look out for the huge polar bear!
The canalside Jardin du Port de l’Arsenal is another good place to stroll around, or picnic and watch the barges. Nomades (37 Blvd Bourdon, 75004; www.nomadeshop.com; Tue–Sun) organizes Rollerblade tours of the city and rents out Rollerblades.
Two Victor Hugo classics are captured on film in Les Misérables (1978) and Disney’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1996). Alexander Dumas’ heroes have inspired numerous films. Disney’s 1993 and 2004 versions of The Three Musketeers – the latter a cartoon version featuring Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and Goofy – are both entertaining. Find out who the mysterious prisoner in the Bastille was, in The Man in the Iron Mask (1998).
The Marais is one of the nicest parts of Paris for shopping with children. For books, I Love My Blender (36 Rue du Temple, 75004; 01 42 77 50 32) is a good option. The children’s concept store Bonton (5 Blvd des Filles du Calvaire, 75003; 01 42 72 34 69) has a hairdresser, toys and cookery classes. L’Ours du Marais (18 Rue Pavée, 75004; 01 42 77 60 43) is a teddy-bear paradise. Merci (111 Blvd Beaumarchais, 75003; www.merci-merci.com) donates its profits to charity, and has a good restaurant and café.
Watch a magic show at the café Le Double Fond (1 Pl du Marché Ste-Catherine, 75004; 01 44 71 40 20; www.doublefond.com). Even the waiters are magicians, performing baffling sleights of hand at table as they serve.
The Marais is home to museums, designer boutiques, art galleries and cafés. To relive the Revolution, go to Musée Carnavalet and Place de la Bastille.
The museum has a lovely garden that is open to the public, with access from Rue des Francs Bourgeois in the summer. The Marais is full of tiny squares where children can run around. Just behind the museum, unwind in the tranquil Square Georges Cain (Rue Payenne, 75003), which has a fascinating collection of statues, or in Square Léopold Achille next door, which has a playground and a lawn also off Rue Payenne.
The magical Musée de la Magie (11 Rue St-Paul, 75004; www.museedelamagie.com) is a subterranean 16th-century vault full of interesting curios, optical illusions, interactive games and magic tricks. There are seven rooms stuffed with magic wands and mirrors, magicians’ hats, secret boxes and all kinds of strange curios from the 18th century to the present day. There are regular magic shows and a great little shop full of tricks to play on friends and family.
There is a little playground on Rue des Nonnains, behind the Hôtel de Sens, a beautiful Gothic mansion with magical towers. It now houses the Forney fine arts library. In the playground of the Lycée Charlemagne school on Rue des Jardins St-Paul, look out for part of the city wall built by king Philippe-Auguste. Just north of the memorial is Rue François Miron, lined with fairytale buildings and enticing shops for kids. Children who like to cook will enjoy sniffing around in Izrael, an Ali Baba cavern full of exotic spices.
Stroll along the canalside at the Bassin de l’Arsenal (Quai de la Rapée, Bastille). A charming little park here, Square Henri Galli, preserves some remains of the earliest Bastille, and the original outline of the fortress is marked on the pavements on the corner of Boulevard Henri IV and Rue St-Antoine. The foundation stones of this once-notorious prison can still be seen – in the Bastille Métro station on the line 5 platforms.
On the doorstep of the Louvre is one of Paris’s oldest and most beautiful parks, the Jardin des Tuileries. Sail wooden boats, play in the playground and relax under the trees.
The Louvre website is fantastically child-friendly. Click on the cartoon figure of the first director Dominique Vivant Denon and check out ‘Tales of the Museum’ at www.louvre.fr. There is more to discover about Ancient Egypt at www.bbc.co.uk/history/ancient/egyptians. The museum shops also stock good CD-Roms, One Minute at the Museum and The Louvre, Art for Kids.
Two excellent films for children are One Minute at the Museum and The Amazing Museum, both available in the museum shop. Looney Tunes Louvre Come Back to Me (1962) is more light-hearted. The Da Vinci Code (2006), a film adaptation of writer Dan Brown’s bestselling novel of the same name, features the museum.
The underground Carrousel du Louvre is full of shops, including the Apple Store (99 Rue de Rivoli, 75001) and Nature et Découvertes (99 Rue de Rivoli, 75001), a branch of the scientific toy shop. Look out for scale models of the Louvre. The Librarie des Jardins (Jardin des Tuileries, 75001) sells children’s books in English. W H Smith (248 Rue de Rivoli, 75001; www.whsmith.fr) has the best collection of English-language books for children in Paris. Fans of model-making should not miss EOL (3 Rue du Louvre, 75001; www.eolmodelisme.com).
After a trip to the Louvre everyone needs to relax. In summer the gardens at the Palais Royal are a lovely place to take a stroll. Alternatively, walk over the Pont des Arts and admire the view at sunset. In bad weather, head to Aquarium de Paris – Cinéaqua, a cutting-edge aquarium at Trocadéro, which is the perfect antidote to too much sightseeing.
About 15 minutes’ walk up Avenue de l’Opéra is a multimedia museum, Paris Story (11 Rue Scribe, 75009; 01 42 66 62 06; www.paris-story.com; 10am–6pm daily) with an audiovisual show that appeals to kids. Although slightly overpriced, it gives a good historical overview for children who know little about the history of France.
The museum is located on the edge of the Jardin des Tuileries. The entrance to the gardens is just a few steps away to the north. Alternatively, walk across Place de la Concorde to the Jardin des Champs-Elysées.
The statue is right by the gate to the Jardin des Tuileries and only moments from the gardens of the arcaded Jardin du Palais Royal, whose courtyard contains black-and-white-striped columns perfect for jumping off.
There is a playground and ping pong tables in the pretty park in Square de Montholon (80 Rue Lafayette, 75009), a 10-minute walk to the northeast. For a serious run around take the metro and head for the Jardin des Tuileries or Parc Monceau.
Watch Michael Jackson meet his wax model at http://tinyurl.com/3tjzkw5 and Pauvre Pierrot, the first cartoon film ever made and shown at the Musée Grévin at http://tinyurl.com/26fl8qn.
Citadium (50–56 Rue de Caumartin, 75009) offers a good selection of cutting-edge streetwear. Passage Jouffroy, next to the museum, is a children’s paradise. Stock up with chocolate olives, nougat toffees and navettes (boat-shaped biscuits) at La Cure Gourmande. Buy everything to kit out a dolls’ house at Pain d’Epices or La Boîte à Joujoux. Le Petit Roi sells second-hand cartoon books. Stamp collectors should head for Rue Drouot. Perhaps the best-known department stores in Paris, Galeries Lafayette, with its great food hall, and elegant Printemps, are both on Boulevard Haussmann.
Discover the secrets of chocolate at Choco-Story (28 Blvd Bonne Nouvelle, 75010; 01 42 29 68 60), a museum offering the delicious opportunity to taste different varieties. Then watch a film in the old cinema, Les Etoiles du Rex (1 Blvd Poissonnière, 75002; 01 45 08 93 40; www.legrandrex.com). Built in 1932, it is the biggest in Europe, with 2,800 seats.
In Montmartre, the kids are spoilt for choice. The pretty gardens of Square Willette slope down in front of Sacré-Coeur and there is a carousel at the bottom of the hill. There is also Square Louise Michel, between Place St-Pierre and the Sacré-Coeur. Behind the cathedral is the Parc de la Turlure, where the Turlure windmill once stood. It is a peaceful place to picnic.
Montmartre has lots of interesting shops selling original gift items, homewares and clothes. Do not miss the outfits and accessories at Antoine et Lili (90 Rue des Martyrs, 75018; www.antoineetlili.com) or the garlands of fancy lights (choose your own colour combination) in La Case de Cousin Paul (4 Rue Tardieu, 75018; www.lacasedecousinpaul.com). La Chaise Longue (91 Rue des Martyrs, 75018; www.lachaiselongue.fr) is also a fun place to browse for home decor items.
Watch rock band U2’s music video Two Hearts Beat as One, shot in front of the basilica and around Montmartre, at http://tinyurl.com/b8epuk
Moulin Rouge (2001) is a romantic musical with Nicole Kidman. The films set here reflect life’s grittier side and are better for older kids. Louis Feuillade’s Fantômas films (1913–14), set in and around Place Pigalle, depict the criminal exploits of a slick but dastardly villain. Watch a clip http://tinyurl.com/coho3of
MOULIN ROUGE One of the world’s most famous cabarets, the Moulin Rouge (82 Blvd de Clichy, 75018; 01 53 09 82 82; www.moulinrouge.fr) was built in 1885 and is topped off with a red windmill. Its name is synonymous with the high-kicking dance, the cancan, and was made famous in Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s drawings and posters. The building is worth a look from the outside, and if families fancy a show, 6–12-year-olds can get in to matinees half-price on two Sundays a month. The tourist train that leaves from Place Pigalle passes right in front and heads up to Sacré-Coeur.
Musée de Montmartre (12 Rue Cortot, 75018; www.museedemontmartre.fr) is a charming museum in an old house with lots of memorabilia of artists such as Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec who lived and worked here. There is also a fairly accurate scale model of the old village of Montmartre, which kids may like. Halle St Pierre at the foot of the butte (2 Rue Ronsard; 01 42 58 72 89, www.hallesaintpierre.org) is an interesting art space with children’s workshops.
Take the funicular from the foot of Montmartre (Rue Tardieu) to Sacré-Coeur, which offers a fantastic view of the city. Local children play in Square Suzanne Buisson (Rue Girardon, 75018), which is located behind Moulin de la Galette. A statue of Saint Denis stands in the middle of the garden. This is a good place to get a feel of the real Montmartre.
Close by is the Musée de Montmartre, housed in a charming 17th-century building, which gives a glimpse of what the area was once like.
Pretty Square des Batignolles is a classic little Parisian park with ducks, a waterfall, table tennis tables and swings. It also has free Wi-Fi. Across the road on Rue Cardinet is the large, ultramodern Parc Martin Luther King, which is a better option for older children and is full of skateboarders.
If the Champs-Elysées seems too busy, opt for a 10-minute ride on bus No. 30, or take an easy walk to Parc Monceau, which has a popular playground. Or take a bus down the avenue to the Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées for the tree-lined Jardin des Champs-Elysées, with fountains and pavilions.
Kit the kids out in style on the Champs-Elysées, where there are plenty of children’s designer outlets. Visit Paul & Joe (2 Ave Montaigne, 75008), which designer Sophie Albou named after her two sons, and check out the children’s collection at Christian Dior (28 Ave Montaigne, 75008). With chandeliers and a velvet-curtained changing room Mon Plus Beau Souvenir (144 Rue de Courcelles, 75017) is another place to shop for designer labels. International chain stores have crept in among the high-end boutiques on the Champs-Elysées, and there are computer games and DVDs at FNAC (No. 74). Football fans should head for the Paris St-Germain shop (No. 27). There are plenty of toys at the Disney Store (No. 44) and La Grande Récré (126 Rue de la Boétie, 75008).
Watch a documentary about the Battle of Austerlitz on www.history.com/videos/the-battle-of-austerlitz
Teenage twins live it up by the Palais de l’Elysée in Passport to Paris (1999).
Check out the art at the Petit Palais, or discover the world of science at the Palais de la Découverte.
In the Jardins des Champs-Elysées, across the road, there is plenty of space to run around. In the northwest corner, puppet shows are still staged in Paris’s oldest puppet theatre, Théâtre Guignol (Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées, 75008; 01 42 45 38 30; www.theatreguignol.fr; Wed, Sat, Sun & school hols 3pm, 4pm & 5pm), which opened in 1818.
Stroll along the Seine from Pont Alexandre III to Place de la Concorde. Check out the houseboats here and imagine what it would be like to live in them.
Behind the palace are the Jardins des Champs-Elysées, with a playground and free Wi-Fi.
On the northeastern side of the square is the Jardins des Tuileries, where kids can enjoy pony rides.
It is a 10-minute walk to Square Louis XVI, on the corner of Rue d’Anjou and Boulevard Haussmann, which has benches to sit on and pathways to run along, as well as a slide and games for kids. Once the Madeleine’s cemetery, this was where victims of the guillotine – including Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette – were buried.
Near the eastern gate on Avenue Vélasquez is the Musée Cernuschi (www.cernuschi.paris.fr). The museum houses a collection of Far Eastern treasures, and is free of charge. Nearby, the Musée Nissim de Camondo (63 Rue de Monceau, 75008; www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/nissim-de-camondo) was once the home of a Jewish family who moved to Paris in 1869 after building a powerful financial empire in Constantinople. Walk through the kitchen and servants’ quarters up to the stylish salons, full of fine art and antiques.
The Jardins du Trocadéro run down to the Seine alongside the most fantastic fountain in Paris. There is a playground and a vintage merry-go-round. During weekends there are street entertainers moon walking and breakdancing on the esplanade.
Avenue Victor Hugo has children’s shops, cake shops and toy shops, the best of which is Oxybul Éveil & Jeux (148 Ave Victor Hugo, 75116).
Watch the video Hitler in Paris at http://tinyurl.com/cqpbtyf, the 1937 World Fair at http://tinyurl.com/3j3f6uy and baby sharks at http://tinyurl.com/3nvbtmm. Check out www.bbc.co.uk/oceans to explore the world’s oceans, www.academickids.com to learn about prehistory, and www.archkidecture.org for awesome buildings.
After taking a look at the Eiffel Tower from the Palais de Chaillot, walk across the Seine on Pont d’Iéna and whizz up to the top of the tower.
The museum has a pretty garden while the terrace in front of the Palais de Tokyo (13 Ave du Président-Wilson, 75116; 01 47 23 54 01) is where local kids practise skateboarding.
The Cimetière de Passy (2 Rue du Commandant Schloesing, 75016) is the last resting place of some of the most famous names in the history of Paris, such as the composer Debussy and the painter Edouard Manet. Eminent politicians and aristocrats are also buried there. With excellent views of the Eiffel Tower, it is a pleasant place for a stroll.
Some years, in winter, there is an ice-skating rink on the first level, but the best place to burn off some energy, all year round, is on the well-manicured expanses of Champ-de-Mars, the park that stretches out from beneath the tower.
On http://tinyurl.com/2g5beua, watch daredevil French inline skater Taïg Khris set the world record for the highest rollerskate jump, at 40 m (131 ft), from the first floor of the Eiffel Tower in 2010. Find out about more towers on www.great-towers.com and play games with the Eiffel Tower on www.tour-eiffel.fr
Check out James Bond in action on the tower in A View to Kill (1985), Chuckie and his friends in Rugrats in Paris (1996) and the cartoon heroes of Looney Tunes Back in Action (2003). It appears in Zazie dans le Métro (1960), The Aristocats (1970) and Ratatouille (2007). Ludwig Bemelmans’ heroine Madeline lives in a leafy street nearby in Madeline (1998).
The only thing to buy next to the Eiffel Tower is a model of it. The original models were made of scrap metal from the tower, but now they come in all colours and materials.
Take a river cruise from the Eiffel Tower past various famous sights, ending up at the other ultimate Paris icon, Notre-Dame.
Run off steam on the lawns in front of the Hôtel des Invalides or in the little playground in the green central section of the tree-lined Avenue de Breteuil, just south of here. Square d’Ajaccio (Blvd des Invalides, 75007), just northeast of the Hôtel des Invalides, has a sandpit and games for kids. For a more serious park experience there is the nearby Champ-de-Mars.
Discover the lives of Napoleon and Charles de Gaulle at www.napoleon.org/en/kids and www.charles-de-gaulle.org. There are documentaries about Napoleon at http://tinyurl.com/4y9dx42. A number of computer games are also available, the best of which are Napoleon: Total War (2010) and Napoleon’s Campaigns (2008).
Waterloo (1970) is a great family watch. Monsieur N (2007) is good for older children.
Deyrolle (46 Rue du Bac, 75007), the famous taxidermist, opened in 1831 and is a bizarre menagerie of lions and creepy crawlies. Papillon (82 Rue de Grenelle, 75007), a clothes shop, is part of the Bonton stable. À la Mère de Famille (47 Rue Cler, 75007) is an irresistible chocolate shop.
Follow up the serious museum experience with some fresh air. Have a picnic and catch a puppet show in the Champ-de-Mars, or stroll across the beautiful Pont Alexandre III with its glittering statues. From here walk along the Seine past the houseboats to the tranquil Jardin des Tuileries and unwind in the playground.
Bring a bucket and spade and create your own sculptures in the sandpit of the Rodin museum’s garden. Some of the most beautiful gardens in Paris belong to religious orders, one of the best being the Jardin Catherine Labouré (33 Rue de Babylone, 75007), with its long, vine-covered pergolas, kitchen garden and little playground. It is about a 10-minute walk from the Musée Rodin.
There is a garden in front of the Basilique Ste-Clotilde (23 Rue Les Cases, 75007), a 10-minute walk down Boulevard St-Germain. Cross Place Jacques Bainville then go east along Rue St-Dominique. In 1830, the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a nun, Catherine Labouré, at Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse on Rue du Bac. Picnic in the park named after her, on Rue de Babylone.
Head across the river to the Jardin des Tuileries to sail wooden boats on the pond. There is also a good free playground here.
Stock Bonpoint (67 Rue de l’Université, 75007; www.bonpoint.com) has great reductions for kids on previous season’s clothes. Six Pieds Trois Pouces (223 Blvd St-Germain, 75007; www.sixpiedstroispouces.com) offers a good variety of stylish and trendy children’s shoes.
Download colouring pages from www.nowyouknowabout.com and watch a BBC mini-series about the history of Impressionism on http://tinyurl.com/3jwqsz3
Now You Know About Artists (2006), a documentary film especially for children, is based on the great painters. Degas and the Dancer (1998) is the story behind the artist’s famous statuette.
Take advantage of the family ticket for €10 at Musée Rodin, which enables access for two adults and two children under 18. But the big draw is the beautiful garden, which has a lovely café and a sandpit to keep kids occupied. It is a walk of just over 10 minutes.
There is a small playground with a sandpit on the southern side of the church. The nearby Pont des Arts footbridge is a lovely spot for a picnic. There is a nice swimming pool, Piscine St-Germain (12 Rue Lobineau, 75006; 01 56 81 25 40), but be aware that swimming hats are obligatory in Paris and the opening hours of the pool are rather erratic, especially during term time.
Walk down Rue Bonaparte to the delightful Jardin du Luxembourg for a real Parisian experience.
The museum has a lovely medieval garden with a children’s glade. Nearby is one of the best swimming pools in Paris, La Piscine Pontoise (19 Rue de Pontoise, 75005; 01 55 42 77 88), which has a changing room overlooking the pool. Further away is an open-air sculpture park, the Musée de la Sculpture en Plein Air (Quai St-Bernard, 75005), usually called Jardin Tino Rossi after the Corsican singer. It is a good spot for a picnic, with views across the river.
Comic-book enthusiasts should head to Boulinier (20 Blvd St-Michel, 75006). More comics and designer gadgets are available at Album (8 Rue Dante, 75006). The world’s oldest magic shop, Magie (8 Rue des Carmes, 75006; www.mayette.com), also offers lessons in magic. Il était une fois (1 Rue Cassette, 75006; 01 45 48 21 10; www.iletaitunefois-paris.fr) is a treasure trove for children’s costumes and toys. Another good stop is Au Plat d’Etain (16 Rue Guisarde, 75006; www.auplatdetain.com), which has been selling tin soldiers since 1775.
Interactive games and lots of fun facts and information about the Middle Ages can be found at www.kidsonthenet.org.uk. Age of Empires (2009), a popular computer game series, challenges players to lead a medieval army to victory.
Les Visiteurs (1993) is a French comedy in which a medieval knight and his servant are accidentally sent into the 20th century by a befuddled Merlin-like wizard. Watch Astérix the Gaul (1967) to find out what Paris was like as Lutetia. Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (2001) reveals more about Nicolas Flamel, a real-life author in the Middle Ages who gained a reputation as an alchemist.
Walk across the Seine to Notre-Dame and get eye-to-eye with medieval Paris in the Crypte Archéologique there. It is a 10-minute walk to the Arènes de Lutèce, the old Roman amphitheatre, which is a good spot in which to enjoy a picnic and kick a football about.
Travel to the Arab world at the Institut du Monde Arabe (1 Rue des Fossées-St-Bernard, 75005; www.imarabe.org), housed in a magnificent modern building with stunning glass windows. There is a small museum here along with a literary café and restaurant with views across to Notre-Dame.
Take a pleasant walk by the Seine along the Quai François Mauriac and see the interesting old industrial wharfs and the modern Bibliothèque François Mitterrand, both of which give a refreshingly different perspective to the city. There is a lovely swimming pool set in a barge on the Seine, the Piscine Joséphine Baker (Quai François Mauriac, 75013; 01 56 61 96 50; open daily). It takes water from the Seine – treated before use – and has a paddling pool for small children. In summer the roof retracts and the pool is in the open air.
Head straight down the hill to the Jardin du Luxembourg (Blvd St-Michel, 75006), one of Paris’s most beautiful parks, or to the Arènes de Lutèce (49 Rue Monge, 75005; 01 43 31 46 34) to watch people play boules. Just behind the Panthéon is the most exclusive school in Paris, the Lycée Henri IV. Its swimming pool, Piscine Jean Taris (16 Rue Thouin, 75005; 01 55 42 81 90), is open to the public.
Watch films about the life of Marie Curie, including a cartoon version at http://tinyurl.com/3ry5uvl. There are also films on the French Resistance and Jean Moulin, including his interment in the Panthéon.
Watch Alexandre Dumas’s famous novels on the big screen: The Count of Monte Cristo (2002 & 2005 with Gerard Depardieu), The Man in the Iron Mask (2000) and The Three Musketeers (1993). Also watch the cartoon version Dogtanian and the Three Muskehounds (2004). Now You Know About Scientists (2010) tells the stories of Marie Curie and Louis Pasteur.
There are two good toyshops in the area: Le Ciel est à Tout le Monde (10 Rue Gay Lussac, 75005) and L’Epée de Bois (12 Rue de L’Epée de Bois, 75005), which means the Wooden Sword and mostly sells wooden toys.
Next to the Panthéon is the Church of St-Etienne-du-Mont where the city’s patron saint, St Geneviève, was buried – until her remains were destroyed in the Revolution, leaving only her finger for posterity. The Panthéon sits on top of the hill named in her honour, Montagne St-Geneviève.
In Rue Clovis, just behind the Panthéon, is part of Philippe Auguste’s medieval wall and the Lycée Henri IV, whose former pupils include Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone Weil. Marie Curie worked just around the corner. Visit her laboratory at Musée Curie (11 Rue Pierre et Marie Curie, 75005; www.curie.fr).
The huge and slightly bizarre-looking St-Sulpice (Pl St-Sulpice, 75006), just north of the Luxembourg Gardens on Place St-Sulpice, has murals by Delacroix and a fine organ. But it is its association with Dan Brown’s novel The Da Vinci Code that has put it on the map. The novel claims that the church is associated with a secret society, the Priory of Sion, and built on the site of an ancient temple. However, according to the church authorities, the letters P and S in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not the Priory of Sion.
Rue Vavin and Rue Brea, near the southwestern corner of the garden, are packed with toyshops and fashionable boutiques for children. There are branches of Catimini, Petit Bateau and an Oxybul Junior for books and games on Rue Vavin. IKKS (13 Rue Vavin, 75006) was the first shop to sell its own trendy children’s range, including fabulous shirts. Tikibou (33 Blvd Edgar Quinet, 75014) is a treasure trove of scale models, trains and toys.
Older children will enjoy playing The Da Vinci Code, a video game for PS2, Xbox and Windows.
The gardens are featured in Victor Hugo’s novel Les Misérables. This is the place where the lovers Marius Pontmercy and Cosette first meet. Watch the 1978 film based on the book.
Combine a trip to the gardens with a visit to the Panthéon and browse through the shops around Rue Vavin, an enclave of children’s stores. After an afternoon in the park it is a wonderful experience to watch the sun set over a cold drink from the top of the Tour Montparnasse. As darkness falls Paris starts to twinkle.
Zadkine is buried in the sprawling Cimetière du Montparnasse (3 Blvd Edgar Quinet, 75014), a tranquil place for a stroll among the tombs of famous writers, actors and artists, including writer Simone de Beauvoir, singer Serge Gainsbourg, author Guy de Maupassant and philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre. Turn right into Rue Joseph Bara and cut across the back streets to Boulevard Edgar Quinet, a 10-minute walk away. On the other side of the cemetery is the underground graveyard, the Catacombes, open for public viewing since 1867. The caverns and tunnels add to a spooky afternoon out.
On the other side of the main road is the Musée du Montparnasse (21 Ave du Maine, 75015; 01 42 22 91 96), once home of the Russian painter Marie Vassilieff, who ran a canteen for needy artists during World War I, among them Picasso, Modigliani, Chagall and Zadkine. Stroll down Boulevard du Montparnasse to the La Coupole (102 Blvd Montparnasse, 75014), a huge, iconic Art Deco brasserie where bustling waiters serve classic dishes.
In front of the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie museum there are 10 different themed gardens, among them the gardens of mirrors, mists and acrobatics.
The park has follies, walkways and playgrounds, and children’s activities at weekends. Watch a show on the canal boat Antipode (55 Quai de la Seine, 75019; 01 42 03 39 07; www.penicheantipode.fr; Wed, Sun & school hols).
Visit the interactive site http://www.universcience.fr/fr/juniors/contenu/c/1239022828832/surprises/. Watch an Ariane space rocket take off at www.arianespace.com. Get to grips with more science at www.bbc.co.uk/schools/scienceclips/index_flash.shtml and www.kids-science-experiments.com. Watch films by the Lumière brothers on http://tinyurl.com/ybvdbuq.
Concept store Antoine et Lili (95 Quai Valmy, 75010; www.antoineetlili.com), on the Canal St-Martin near the park, has household items and clothes for women and little girls.
Take a cruise on a canal boat or stroll along the towpath of Canal de l’Ourcq, built by Napoleon. He knew that to gain the trust of the Parisians he needed plenty of fresh water, which was always in short supply in the city, so he diverted the River Ourcq into a 100-km (62-mile) long canal. It joins with the leafy Canal St-Martin, with its iron footbridges, which heads south to Bastille. In summer, the towpaths of the two canals are at their liveliest from mid-Jul to mid-Aug when the popular Paris-Plages turn them into a street party.
By the southeastern corner of the cemetery there are some pretty cobbled streets running off Rue de Bagnolet and a small playground at the top of Rue des Balkans. The romantic landscape of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (Rue Manin, 75019), with its craggy cliffs, grotto, colonnaded folly and waterfalls is a great place to feed the ducks, spend time in the playground and get a fine view of Paris.
The Cité Nationale de l’Histoire de l’Immigration (293 Ave Daumesnil, 75012; www.histoire-immigration.fr) charts the story of immigration in France. Kids will love the aquarium (www.aquarium-portedoree.fr) in the basement. Cirque Pinder (Pelouse de Reuilly, 75012; 01 45 90 21 25; www.cirquepinder.com), France’s oldest travelling circus, puts on shows in the winter months. It is a traditional show with animal acts.
The park houses the Palais Omnisports (01 40 02 60 60; www.bercy.fr/patinoire), which is the place to enjoy ice skating. It is also a major music and sports venue. On the northwestern edge of the park is La Cinémathèque Française (51 Rue de Bercy; 01 71 19 33 33; www.cinematheque.fr), a museum of French cinema.
Get back on the RER and whizz down to the Jardin du Luxembourg, which has a puppet theatre and tennis courts, among other attractions. There is nowhere near the stadium to have a proper run around.
Rent bikes near the entrance of Jardin d’Acclimatation and cycle down to the Lac Inferieur. Avoid the southern part of the park, notorious for prostitution. The “Bois” is best avoided altogether after dark.
Watch a film of Jardin d’Acclimatation’s marionette puppets in action on http://tinyurl.com/3gvap5b.
For a quick culture fix, visit the Musée Marmottan-Claude Monet (2 Rue Louis Boilly, 75016; 01 44 96 50 33; closed Mon) by the Jardin du Ranelagh, housing 165 of Claude Monet’s paintings, his palette and sketchbook. On the other side of the huge Bois de Boulogne, sports fans can take a tour of the Parc des Princes (www.lesparcdesprinces.fr), home to Paris St-Germain, the city’s top football team, or Stade Roland Garros (www.rolandgarros.com), where the French Open tennis tournament is held.
Do not miss this French-style mini Manhattan. Paris’s business district is home to a huge modern arch, La Grande Arche, built to mark the Revolution’s 200th anniversary. From the front steps is a stunning view along a straight avenue through the Arc de Triomphe to the Louvre.
Little ones might like to pretend to be a bee in this stunning rose garden, choosing a favourite scent and colour from among the hundreds of varieties growing here. Stroll beneath the old trees in the romantic Parc de Bois Preau (01 41 29 05 55), just a few minutes’ walk north of the château, to see the statue of Joséphine in her typical Empire-line dress. South of the château, the extensive forested grounds include a 15-minute walk down to Etang de St-Cucufa (www.mairie-rueilmalmaison.fr), a small lake.
Whizz down slides, jump in the waves and relax under the palm trees until late at night in Europe’s biggest water park Aquaboulevard (4 Rue Louis Armand, 75015; www.aquaboulevard.fr). It is to the south of the park by the Périphérique.
Carry on the theme and stroll through the tranquil and expansive Cimetière du Montparnasse, which is the nicest in Paris. It is on Rue Froidevaux, about a 10-minute walk from the Catacombes. Among the famous names buried here are the writer Guy de Maupassant and the car manufacturer, André Citroën.
Walk down Avenue René Coty to the atmospheric Parc Montsouris where kids can run around.
Over 700 items a day are lost in Paris and end up at the Lost and Found Office (Service des Objets Trouvés, 36 Rue des Morillons, 75015; 08 21 00 25 25). Among the mountains of umbrellas, phones and bags that have been handed in was a false leg found on Bus No. 168 in 2003. Two skulls were left on the Métro in 2002 and a young man mislaid a funeral urn containing his granny’s ashes at Père Lachaise Métro station. Also on display in the little museum here are a set of false teeth, a brand new wedding dress and top-secret documents.
Parc Georges Brassens, located to the north of Boulevard Lefébvre, is named after the famous singer Georges Brassens, who lived nearby, and has ponds, playgrounds, sculptures and a scented garden.
If it rains, go five Métro stops to the Musée du Montparnasse (21 Ave du Maine, 75015; 01 42 22 91 96; www.museedumontparnasse.net). A canteen for needy artists during World War I, it is now an art gallery.
At http://tinyurl.com /239gsg8 watch Marie Antoinette, The Last Queen of France, a drama-documentary that sheds a different light on the accepted story of a frivolous, self-indulgent queen who alienated France. Two historical video games, Versailles Mysteries and Marie Antoinette and the War of Independence, can be found at www.nemopolis.net.
Older children will enjoy watching Marie Antoinette (2006), directed by Sofia Coppola, which gives a Hollywood view of life at Versailles, while Versailles: Le Rêve d’un Roi (2007) is a colourful French drama about Louis XIV.
There are plenty of designer shops selling children’s clothes in the town of Versailles but shopping is a bit stuffy and prim. Pick up some unusual vegetables at the Potager du Roi, the former palace kitchen garden where, in the 18th century, they grew new and exotic fruits from the colonies.
Watch the sword-wielding riders at the Bartabas Academy of Equestrian Arts (Grande Ecurie du Roi; www.bartabas.fr), which puts on shows in the former royal stables at weekends and on certain weekdays. Take a quick look at the Salle du Jeu de Paume (Rue du Jeu de Paume; tours: Sat 3pm), the old tennis court, where a meeting was held in June 1789 that sparked the French Revolution. In summer head for France Miniature, and feel like a giant in Europe’s largest miniature model. The Playmobil Funpark (www.playmobil-funpark.fr), 17 km (11 miles) east at Fresnes, is an ideal place for younger kids.
Climb trees and get up close to the birds at Odyssée Verte, the forest park at Espace Rambouillet (3 Rue de Groussay, Rambouillet, Yvelines, 78120; 01 34 83 05 00; www.onf.fr/espaceramb), which features 19 bridges and 18 platforms. Take a walk and enjoy rock climbing by the Abbaye des Vaux-de-Cernay, a ruined abbey in the old stone quarries located on the edge of the Forêt de Rambouillet. In winter there is also an ice skating rink in Place Félix Faure in the town centre.
Visit the Château de Thoiry in the park, which includes the Salon Blanc, where everything, including the piano, is white. The château is uniquely positioned so that during the summer and winter solstices, the sun’s rays form a “bridge of light” in the main hall that lights up the building like a lantern.
The park features a range of rides and attractions.There is a huge playground beside the Gaulish Village, the Druids’ Forest. Walk in the footsteps of the wise old druid Getafix, through the menhirs and the shifting swamps. It is located next to the Ronde des Rondins, a mini roller coaster suitable for younger members of the family. When the park opens for the Christmas holidays there are plenty of shows and entertainment and also a lovely ice skating rink.
There is no end to the souvenirs here featuring Astérix, Obélix, Dogmatix and the rest – on towels, glasses, T-shirts, key rings and fridge magnets. The park also offers a good selection of the contents and films in English. Astérix and the Golden Sickle, the second volume in the famous comic-book series, is set in Lutetia, now Paris.
A magical web potion can be taken at www.asterix.com
There are as many as 11 films based on this popular comic strip. The Twelve Tasks of Astérix (1976) is unique as it is not based on an existing book. The Romans almost win in Astérix and the Big Fight (1989). Gerard Depardieu is hilarious as Obélix in Astérix and Obélix (1999), Astérix and Obélix: Mission Cleopatra (2002) and Astérix and the Olympic Games (2008).
There are daily shows at the Poseidon Theatre and the Roman Circus, but usually only at weekends and in high season.
Be Getafix and gather leaves to make magic potions in the Forêt d’Ermen-onville. To get there take the A1 to the city of Senlis, 10 km (6 miles) north of the theme park, then the D330A east for 4 km (2 miles) and south on the N330 through the forest. Head back to Lutetia to check the old Roman amphitheatre at Arènes de Lutèce.
There is nowhere close by to run about in. Get back on the Métro and head into town: line 7 stops at the Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre station. Enjoy a peaceful stroll in the beautiful gardens of the Jardin des Tuileries.
There are two playgrounds: the Pocahontas Indian Village in Frontierland® and the Plage des Pirates in Adventureland®.
Go to www.disney.fr, www.disney.co.uk/playhouse-disney or www.hiddenmickeys.org for fun and games.
Watch DVDs of the cartoons with a French feel such as Aristocats (1970), Beauty and the Beast (1991), Sleeping Beauty (1959), Cinderella (1950), The Hunchback of Notre-Dame (1996) and Ratatouille (2007).
The Disney® Village, just outside the park, is full of shops and restaurants, which stay open after the park has closed so there is no need to rush to shop in the park itself. Purchases made in the park before 3pm can be delivered to hotels or to the Disney® Village for collection at the end of the day. Souvenirs are expensive, so choose the bigger shops where there is more choice among the cheaper options. The Liberty Arcade (Main Street, USA®) shop is a good option. Buy books, stationery, videos, posters and CDs at the cosy Storybook Store (Main Street, USA®). La Boutique du Château (Fantasyland®) is a year-round Christmas-themed shop. Shop here for Christmas cards and holiday decorations. Kids will enjoy spending hours in the big Disney Store (Disney® Village) and browsing through the collection of merchandise, including clothes and toys. World of Disney, located at the entrance of Disney® Village, offers a vast and exciting range of Disney merchandise.
The best way to relax is to stay overnight at one of the on-site hotels, which are also in Disney® Village. For children the bonus is that at the end of the day, when the park is empty, it is possible to have several goes on some of the rides. The hotels closest to the park are the most expensive. The most luxurious hotel is the Disneyland® Hotel. The main attraction here is a view of the fairy-tale castle down Main Street, USA®, and the copious breakfast with Disney characters. Kids will love Hotel Cheyenne®, which looks like a Wild West movie set. Some hotels also have indoor and outdoor pools. Watch out for seasonal package deals available for families on the official website.
Under-10s will be exhausted by a day out at Disneyland® Park, so do not plan anything for the first evening. On day two head over to Walt Disney Studios®, the smaller theme park, next to the Disneyland® Park. This is the place to discover the world of the movies and find out how films are made, especially animated cartoons in the Toon Studio. The central feature of Front Lot, just inside the giant studio gates, is a fountain in the shape of Mickey. The big attraction is Toy Story Playland with ride such as the Toy Soldiers Parachute Drop and the Slinky Dog Zigzag. Do not miss the Studio Tram tour, which travels through an earthquake in an oilfield and on to the destroyed city of London. The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror™ is a white-knuckle ride, good for older children.
Kids will enjoy running along the paths around the Grand Canal and playing at the playground in the château gardens. Row across the castle lake in a boat or ride in a horse-drawn carriage in the grounds. Stop at the playground at the Musée Napoleon d’Art et d’Histoire Militaire (88 Rue St Honoré, Fontainebleau, 77300), which is a short stroll away from the château, or go horse-riding at Horse Dreams (www.horse-dreams.com), near Ury, which takes around 15 minutes by car.
Reel Books (9 Rue de Ferrare, 77300) sells children’s books in English and French. Look out for farm shops along the side of the road. The area east of Fontainebleau is famous for its Brie and Coulommiers cheese.
Louis XIII, one of the characters in The Three Musketeers (1993), was born at Fontainebleau.
South of the château, via the Carrefour de Matignon on the N6, Fontainebleau’s forests have walking trails with beautiful views. There is a lovely walk from the village of Barbizon, 10 minutes northwest by car along the D64. Barbizon was the home of the landscape painter Jean-François Millet, who inspired Van Gogh. Also a short drive away is the medieval town of Moret-sur-Loing, which inspired Impressionist painter Alfred Sisley. Hire a canoe here for a trip on the river Loing.