< Exploring Paris

Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides

Family Guide
A monumental part of Paris, the area around Les Invalides, on the Left Bank of the Seine, is determined to leave an impression. Everything from the Dôme church at the imposing Hôtel des Invalides to the sprawling 18th-century buildings of the Ecole Militaire at the end of the sweeping Champ-de-Mars is outstanding. Overlooking it all stands Paris’s towering steel lady, the Eiffel Tower.
Family Guide
Summer crowds on the Champ-de-Mars, beneath the famous Eiffel Tower

Highlights

Eiffel Tower

Climb to the top of the spectacular tower and gaze down at the beautiful city below (see Eiffel Tower).

Les Egouts

Look out for the endearing little stars of Ratatouille and the heroes of Les Misérables on a tour of Paris’s famous sewers (see Les Egouts).

Champ-de-Mars

Watch an entertaining puppet show before enjoying a ride on the ponies and running around the playground in these vast, lawned gardens (see Champ-de-Mars).

musée du quai Branly

Step into a world of African dancers, strange masks and totem poles in this fascinating museum (see musée du quai Branly).

Les Invalides

Visit the spectacular church where Napoleon lies buried, next to one of the best military museums in the world (see Les Invalides).

Musée Rodin

Lunch in the lovely garden at the museum, then admire the marvellous sculptures of Auguste Rodin while enjoying an ice cream (see Musée Rodin).

The Best of Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides

Family Guide
Colourful hot-air balloons in the Champ-de-Mars
Indulge in being a proper tourist here – there is no other way to approach the Eiffel Tower, so give in to trinket-buying and posing for photos in front of it. The other prominent landmark in the area, the imposing Hôtel des Invalides, is also a must, whether for a peek at Napoleon’s tomb or hours of gazing at historic guns and model forts. Art of all kinds can be enjoyed both indoors and outdoors, best of all in the gardens of the Musée Rodin.

A perfect Parisian day

Begin the morning by visiting the Musée Rodin and admire the work of the greatest French sculptor of the 19th century, Auguste Rodin, followed by lunch in the garden café.
Afterwards, head to the Champ-de-Mars, checking out the shops along the way. Watch a puppet show at the Marionettes du Champ-de-Mars before braving some strong smells and the dirty underside of the city on a tour of Paris’s sewers, Les Egouts.
On a summer evening, picnic under the magnificent Eiffel Tower. Then race to the top to enjoy spectacular views of the city twinkling below. Finish in style with a delicious meal at 58 Tour Eiffel on the second floor.
Family Guide
Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker in the Musée Rodin

Military might

Admire the guns in the gardens of the Hôtel des Invalides before tracing the history of warfare from the Stone Age to World War II at the Musée de l’Armée. March around the Cour d’Honneur, which is still used as a parade ground, and salute Napoleon’s statue. Pop into the Dôme church to pay a visit to his sarcophagus as well as the tomb of the leader of the Allied forces in World War I, General Foch.
At the Musées des Plans-Reliefs, marvel at the skills of Louis XIV’s master fortress builder, Sébastien le Prestre de Vauban, who revolutionized siege warfare. Learn more about the heroes of the Resistance during World War II at the Musée de L’Ordre de la Libération. Head to the Hôtel Matignon on Rue de Varenne, the official residence of the French prime minister. He is able to enjoy what is one of the biggest private gardens in town.
Walk across the Champ-de-Mars to the imposing Royal Military Academy of Louis XV, the Ecole Militaire. At the age of 16, newly arrived from Corsica, Napoleon Bonaparte was a cadet here. Modern-day French peacekeeping troops have played an important role around the world, notably during the war in Bosnia. Learn more about France’s role in world politics at Place de Fontenoy, the headquarters of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO.

A world of art

Discover indigenous art and artefacts from Asia, Africa, Oceania and the Americas in the fascinating musée du quai Branly, and listen to recordings of the many weird and wonderful instruments also on display. Wander south across the Champ-de-Mars and pause for thought at Le Mur de la Paix , the Wall of Peace outside the Ecole Militaire, then admire the massive mural by Pablo Picasso, ceramics by Jean Miró and sculptures by Henry Moore at the headquarters of UNESCO.
Fall in love with the works of Auguste Rodin in his former home, studio and gardens, now the delightful Musée Rodin. Then stroll over to the Dôme church at the Hôtel des Invalides and prepare to be dazzled by The Glory of Paradise, painted on the circular, domed ceiling by Charles de la Fosse in 1692.
Family Guide
Fascinating artifacts on display at the musée du quai Branly

< Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides

Eiffel Tower and Around

Family Guide
A puppet show in progress at the Marionettes du Champ-de-Mars
From the moment kids arrive in Paris they want to get to the top of the Eiffel Tower. In summer be prepared for big crowds. If the plan is to have a picnic, buy supplies beforehand, since shops here are few and far between; for the same reason it is best to bring snacks, as the kiosks are expensive. Exploring this area requires a lot of walking so, for small children, be sure to bring a pushchair. On Sundays and public holidays, Quai Branly is closed to traffic and is a fun place to rollerblade or take a stroll.


1. Eiffel Tower

2. Champ-de-Mars

3. musée du quai Branly

4. Les Egouts


Family Guide
Children’s play area in the Champ-de-Mars, in front of the Eiffel Tower




1. Eiffel Tower

The iron lady of Paris

Family Guide
Colourful scale models of the Eiffel Tower
There is something irresistible about the Meccano-style star of the Paris skyline. It is a magnet for children, whose main ambition is to get to the top as fast as possible. In 1886, a competition was held to build a tower at the gates of the Exposition Universelle of 1889, to commemorate 100 years since the Revolution. Gustave Eiffel emerged as the winner from among 170 entries, which included a giant watering can and an enormous guillotine. Far from an instant hit, the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) was lucky not to be torn down later.
Family Guide

Key Features

1. Third level The viewing gallery is 276 m (906 ft) above the ground. Mr Eiffel had an office here.

2. Crisscross girders The complex pattern of the girders helps to stabilize the tower on windy days. The metal parts can expand up to 12 cm (5 inch) on hot days.

3. Second level At 115 m (376 ft), this level is separated from the first by 359 steps, or a few minutes in the lift.

4. First level At a height of 57 m (187 ft), this level can be reached by lift or by 360 steps.It has a glass floor giving fabulous views and a new exhibition space.

5. Bust of Eiffel Eiffel was sculpted by Antoine Bourdelle in 1929 and the bust was placed below the tower in his memory.

6. Double-decker lifts These vintage lifts ply their way up and down to and from the second floor.

7. Eiffel’s staircase See a piece of the original staircase that was taken down in 1983 to make way for new lifts. Gustave Eiffel would walk up to the top to his office.

8. Champ-de-Mars A former parade ground, these long gardens stretch from the tower’s base to the Ecole Militaire (military school).

Sparkling Eiffel Every evening since the millennium, a 200,000-watt lighting system makes the Eiffel Tower sparkle for 5 minutes every hour, on the hour, until 1 am.

Viewing gallery On a clear day it is possible to see Chartres Cathedral, 80 km (50 miles) away.

Family Guide
Left Sparkling Eiffel Tower Middle Bust of Eiffel Right View from the gallery





Kids’ Corner

Do you know…

  1. On a hot sunny day the tower leans up to 18 cm (7 in).
  2. It takes 25 painters and 60 tons of paint to touch up the base of the tower every seven years and the top part every five years.
  3. In 1948, famous circus owner Bouglione took the oldest female elephant in the world (85 years old) up to the first floor of the tower.

Towering towers

Family Guide
The Eiffel Tower was the tallest building in the world until the Empire State Building was completed in 1931.

Car crazy

Family Guide
In 1959, Julien Bertin, aged 10, became the 35-millionth visitor to the Eiffel Tower. He won a car but neither of his parents could drive.

What a heap of scrap!

Family Guide
In the 1920s the Eiffel Tower was in such a bad state of repair that the government considered pulling it down. In 1925, con-man Victor Lustig, who claimed he was the official in charge of secretly selling it off, met six scrap metal dealers at the Hôtel Crillon. He demanded a heavy bribe to secure the deal and escaped to Austria with the money. The metal dealers, however, were too embarrassed to admit what had happened and a month later Lustig came back and sold the tower a second time. This time he was not so lucky–the victim reported him.

2. Champ-de-Mars

War, peace and puppets

Family Guide
Puppet show at the old-fashioned Marionettes du Champ-de-Mars
Once a military parade ground, the vast Champ-de-Mars with its long sweeping pathways is perfect for riding a bike and kicking a ball about. It was here that a grudging Louis XVI was forced to accept the new constitution on 14 July 1790. Today, watch a Punch-and-Judy-style puppet show at the Marionettes du Champ-de-Mars, the old-fashioned theatre on the northeastern side of the park, which is fun even if the kids do not speak a word of French. At Le Mur de la Paix, the Wall of Peace monument, near the Ecole Militaire, leave a message of peace in the cracks.





Kids’ Corner

Look out for…

Stinky street signs. The sewers run parallel to the streets above, and have name signs just like their open-air equivalents.

Look out for…

Family Guide

1. The wall of Peace. A monument in the Champ-de-Mars has the word “peace” written in 49 languages. Can you find yours?

2. The God of War. The Champ-de-Mars was once a parade ground. It is named after Mars, the Roman god of war.

Stairway to heaven

Family Guide
During the Revolution, a fanatical revolutionary, Maximilien Robespierre, seized control of Paris. The Revolution had abolished Christianity and turned all the churches into barns and warehouses, so Robespierre decided to invent a new religion. He built a plaster mountain in the Champ-de-Mars to celebrate his new Cult of the Supreme Being. At the end of the festivities he made a dramatic appearance at the top dressed in a toga. Tongues began wagging that he fancied himself as the Supreme Being and before long he was dispatched off to meet his maker after a trip to the guillotine.

3. musée du quai Branly

Skulls, masks and magic

Family Guide
Artifacts from Africa on display in the musée du quai Branly
Opened in 2006, the musée du quai Branly is home to an amazing ethnographic collection. The exhibits are presented in striking, original ways, often through film and music, which makes them especially accessible to children. The museum is crammed with fascinating objects from all over the world. Follow in the footsteps of the great explorers, such as André Thévet who was sent by the King of France to found a colony in South America in 1555, or the team who drove a Citroën car 30,000 km (18,641 miles) across Asia in 1931. Among the treasures they brought back was a beautiful painted saddle from Uzbekistan. Discover the shrunken heads from the South Seas but also look out for the 1,000-year-old wooden statue from Africa. It is both a man and a woman, with unborn twins in its stomach.



4. Les Egouts

What is that smell?

Family Guide
A history tour of Paris’s atmospheric sewers, Les Egouts
Victor Hugo made the sewers of Paris famous in his well-known novel, Les Misérables. Kids, however, will probably think Remy the rat, the star of Ratatouille, put them on the map. A feat of 19th-century engineering, the sewers run parallel to the streets above for 2,400 km (1,490 miles), and would stretch as far as Istanbul. Between 1800 and 1850, the population of Paris doubled to over a million but the city had very few underground sewers. In the 1850s, Baron Haussmann transformed standards of living by building a remarkable hidden parallel city and it was soon a must-see for visitors, among them Tsar Alexander II of Russia. Today, visitors can take a tour of the sewers and discover the mysteries of underground Paris. All of the tours are limited to an area around the Quai d’Orsay entrance, and are on foot.





Kids’ Corner

Dirty, icky and yucky

Family Guide
In the Middle Ages people in Paris drank the water from the Seine even though they dumped their rubbish in the river and the sewers emptied directly into it.

< Eiffel Tower & Les Invalides

Les Invalides and Around

Family Guide
Neo-Classical façade of the Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon
The shimmering golden dome of Les Invalides towers over the lawns that stretch from the equally magnificent Pont Alexandre III, and is bound to impress the kids. Mini military buffs can run past the cannons to explore one of the best collections of guns and armour in the world. Afterwards relax in the garden of the Musée Rodin, just across the road, a great place to unwind. Exploring this area involves plenty of walking, so small children will need pushchairs.


1. Les Invalides

2. Ecole Militaire

3. Musée Rodin

4. Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon


Family Guide
The Thinker, one of Rodin’s most celebrated sculptures, at the Musée Rodin




1. Les Invalides

Guns, generals and potatoes

Family Guide
General de Gaulle’s Liberation Order and compass
Louis XIV built the Hôtel des Invalides in 1671–76, for the thousands of soldiers who were wounded and disabled in his endless campaigns. At its centre rises the glittering dome of the Eglise du Dôme, the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. More about him, as well as wars and weapons from medieval times to World War II, can be found in the museums surrounding the church. One of the best collections of military history in the world, it is a must for toy soldier enthusiasts.
Family Guide

Key Features

1. Musées des Plans-Reliefs Scale models and maps of the most famous fortifications in France are housed here.

2. South entrance

3. Eglise du Dôme Napoleon Bonaparte lies buried in the crypt here, inside six coffins like a Russian matryoshka doll.

4. Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération This museum documents the daring feats of resistance during World War II. Closed for renovation till June 2015.

5. Cour d’Honneur This courtyard is still used for military parades. Napoleon’s statue, known as the Little Corporal, stands nearby.

6. Musée de l’Armée Occupying the main part of the Hôtel des Invalides, this museum has the third-largest collection of armoury in the world plus galleries on the wars that ravaged France between 1870 and 1945.

7. North entrance

Mighty cannons The gardens designed by de Cotte in 1704 are lined with rows of 17th- and 18th-century bronze cannons.

Family Guide
Left Eglise du Dôme Middle Musée de l’Armée Right Bronze cannons





Kids’ Corner

Look out for…

  1. Family Guide

    The cannons on the lawns outside Les Invalides. Guess how many are there?
  2. A man with a wooden head. Les Invalides is haunted by an old soldier who was badly injured in a battle in Germany. The surgeon patched him up with a tree from the Black Forest, which gave him a German accent. He is called Pierre Dubois, Peter Forest!
  3. One of Napoleon’s horses. His name was Vizir; find him, stuffed, in the Eylau Room of the Musée de l’Armée.

Food for thought

Family Guide
Napoleon set out strict rules for baking methods. It is believed that the baguette was invented by him so that his soldiers could transport their bread in their backpacks.

Parmentier and his potatoes

Family Guide
Antoine Augustin Parmentier was captured by the Prussians during the Seven Years’ War and forced to eat potatoes, which in France were then only fed to pigs. He developed a taste for them and, thanks to his efforts, potatoes were declared edible by the medical faculty of Paris in 1772. In spite of this he was still prevented from growing them at Les Invalides, where he was a pharmacist. Undaunted, he invited the rich and famous to eat potato dishes and stationed armed guards at his garden at Sablons to convince people that the potato was valuable.

2. Ecole Militaire

Stripes, salutes and scandals

The Royal Military Academy of Louis XV was founded in 1750 to educate cadet officers from poor families. Its most famous pupil was undoubtedly Napoleon Bonaparte, who studied here as a teenager, graduating in just one year instead of two. The academy is not open to the public but dominates the southern end of the Champ-de-Mars, which pupils originally used as a parade ground and as a spot to grow vegetables for the school canteen. It was here, in 1895, that Captain Dreyfus was stripped of his army command; an event that developed into the scandalous Dreyfus Affair, which rocked the government and divided the nation.





Kids’ Corner

Look out for…

The dreyfus affair

Family Guide
In 1895, army captain Alfred Dreyfus was unjustly accused of being a German spy, mainly because he was Jewish. He was held in prison for 12 years, four of which were on the notorious Devil’s Island. It turned into a scandal, with author Emile Zola writing the famous J’accuse letter in his defense.

3. Musée Rodin

People in bronze and plaster

Family Guide
Stately façade of the Musée Rodin
The spacious garden of the Musée Rodin steals the show at this museum dedicated to Auguste Rodin (1840–1917), the greatest French sculptor of the 19th century. Dotted around this peaceful, walled-in haven stand the masterpieces The Thinker, The Burghers of Calais and The Gates of Hell. Rodin’s style was more natural than the Classicist ideals people were used to and his controversial portrayal of the author Honoré de Balzac, also here, was ridiculed in the press when it was unveiled in 1898. It all makes for a perfect taster of Rodin’s work in a brilliantly family-friendly environment, where the kids can get close to famous art with an ice cream in hand. Inside, in the elegant 18th-century Hôtel Biron where Rodin lived as an old man, works spanning his whole career are presented chronologically, including the delightful and very popular The Kiss. There is also a room devoted to the art of his lover, sculptor Camille Claudel.





Kids’ Corner

Look out for…

Family Guide

1. Rodin designed The Gates of Hell for a museum that was never built. Can you guess how many figures are on the gates?

2. Some of Rodin’s most famous statues started out as details on The Gates of Hell. Can you spot one that also stands in the museum garden?

3. Rodin’s statue of the famous novelist Balzac, dressed in what looks like a bathrobe.



Get tasting

Family Guide
The food hall at Le Bon Marché department store has a mouthwatering display of unmissable treats – Eiffel Tower lollipops and chocolate pearls, bottles of syrup in the shape of the Babapapas to add a zing to your drinks, and even salt from the Himalayas. The kitchens open at 1am when the bakers arrive. They are joined at 4am by the pastry chefs, who whisk up mountains of multicoloured macaroons, delicious mini chocolate tarts and lemon meringue pies while you are still in bed. At 6am they start roasting meat and chopping vegetables to make the most sumptuous picnics in town.

4. Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon

Laying down the law

Family Guide
Entrance hall of the Assemblée Nationale Palais-Bourbon
The 18th-century Palais Bourbon, built for one of the daughters of Louis XIV, has been home to the lower house of the French parliament since 1830. During World War II, it became the Nazi administration’s seat of government. The colonnaded façade was added in 1806 to mirror the façade of La Madeleine across the river. Inside there is a post office, a café and even a hairdresser. The President is not allowed inside in case he tries to influence the way the deputies vote. Next door is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, known as the Quai d’Orsay.