Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around Highlights
Vientiane
Cycling Tour
Around Vientiane
Phu Khao Khuay NPA
Ban Na
Ban Hat Khai
Tat Xai, Pha Xai & Tat Leuk
Ang Nam Ngum & Around
Vang Vieng
Motorcycling
Vang Vieng towards Luang Prabang
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around
Why Go?
Vientiane is one of the smallest capital cities in Southeast Asia, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in character. Set on the banks of the mighty Mekong River, there is a palpable French influence, and it's the perfect place to recharge the batteries on an overland journey through Laos.
The urbane sophistication of Vientiane is a world away from the poetic beauty of the karst mountains of Vang Vieng and the dense jungles of Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area (NPA).
Vang Vieng, one of Southeast Asia's leading adventure centres, is also one of the most beautiful spots in Laos. Rising up across the Nam Song (Song River), the limestone karst is a throwback to the Jurassic-era and is peppered with caves.
Throw in homestays and jungle treks around Phu Khao Khuay, the most accessible protected area in the country, and prepare to encounter some remarkable contrasts on your travels.
When to Go
ANov–Feb A great time to visit, with the magical Bun Pha That Luang (Full Moon Festival) in November.
AMar–May Temperatures and humidity levels climbs, but hotel prices fall.
AJun–Nov The monsoon brings fresh air and river festivals like Bun Awk Phansa and Bun Nam.
Best Places to Sleep
Vientiane, Vang Vieng & Around Highlights
1 Vang Vieng Tubing, climbing, kayaking, cycling, motorbiking or walking through the rivers and stunning karst terrain.
2 Lao cuisine Indulging in a culinary journey through Vientiane by sampling mod Lao, Gallic gastronomy and a fusion of other flavours.
3 Pha That Luang Seeking out the spiritual side of Laos with a visit to one of the principal Buddhist wats in Vientiane.
4 Nightlife Bar-hopping in Vientiane along Th Fa Ngoum and Th Setthathirath to discover another side to the sometimes sleepy Lao capital.
5 Phu Khao Khuay NPA Getting off the grid with a trip to this national protected area, with its diverse landscape, pretty waterfalls and authentic homestays.
Vientiane ວຽງຈັນ
Pop 700,000 / 
%021
From its sleepy tuk-tuk drivers to its cafe society and affordable spas, this former French trading post is languid to say the least. Eminently walkable, the historic old quarter of Vientiane (ວຽງຈັນ) beguiles with glittering temples, lunging naga (river serpent) statues, wandering Buddhist monks, and boulevards lined with frangipani and tamarind.
Meanwhile, with most of its old French villas now stylishly reincarnated into restaurants and small hotels, Vientiane is achieving an unprecedented level of panache with a distinctly Gallic flavour. For the well-heeled traveller and backpacker the city acquits itself equally well, be it with low-cost digs and street markets, or upscale boutique accommodation and gastronomic eateries.
Whether you spend your time in Vientiane lounging over a novel in an old-fashioned bakery, shopping in silk shops or swigging Beerlao while drinking up the fiery sunset over the Mekong, once you leave you’ll miss this place more than you expected.
History
Set on a bend in the Mekong River, Vientiane was first settled around the 9th century AD and formed part of one of the early Lao valley meuang (city-states) that were consolidated around the 10th century under the control of the Khmer empire. The Lao who settled here did so because the surrounding alluvial plains were so fertile, and initially the Vientiane meuang prospered and enjoyed a fragile sovereignty following the decline of Angkor.
In the ensuing centuries, Vientiane's fortunes have been mixed. At various times it has been a major regional centre; at other times it has been controlled by the Vietnamese, Burmese and Siamese.
The height of Vientiane's success was probably in the years after it became the Lan Xang capital in the mid-16th century, after King Setthathirat moved the capital from Luang Prabang. Several of Vientiane's wats were built following this shift and the city became a major centre of Buddhist learning.
It didn't last. Periodic invasions by the Burmese, Siamese and Chinese, and the eventual division of the Lan Xang kingdom took their toll on the city.
It wasn't until the Siamese installed Chao Anou, a Lao prince who had been educated in Bangkok, on the throne in 1805 that the city received an overdue makeover. Chao Anou's public works included Wat Si Saket, built between 1819 and 1824.
Unfortunately, Chao Anou's attempts to assert Lao independence over the Siamese resulted in the most violent and destructive episode in Vientiane's history. In 1828 the Siamese defeated Chao Anou's armies and wasted no time in razing the city and carting off much of the population. Wat Si Saket, the base for the Thai invaders, was the only major building to survive, and the city was abandoned.
In 1867 French explorers arrived but it wasn't until late in the century, after Vientiane had been made capital of the French protectorate, that serious reconstruction began. A simple grid plan was laid out for the city and a sprinkling of colonial-style mansions and administrative buildings emerged. However, Vientiane was always low in the French order of Indochinese priorities, as the modest building program testifies.
In 1928 the 'city' was home to just 9000 inhabitants – many of them Vietnamese administrators brought in by the French – and it wasn't until the end of WWII that Vientiane's population began to grow with any vigour. It was a growth fed primarily by Cold War dollars, with first French and later American advisors arriving in a variety of guises.
After a couple of coups d'état in the politically fluid 1960s, Vientiane had by the early '70s become a city where almost anything went. Its few bars were peopled by an almost surreal mix of spooks and correspondents, and the women who served them.
Not surprisingly, things changed with the arrival of the Pathet Lao (PL) in 1975. Nightclubs filled with spies were the first to go and Vientiane settled into a slumber punctuated by occasional unenthusiastic concessions to communism, including low-level collectivisation and an initial crackdown on Buddhism. These days the most noticeable leftovers from the period are some less-than-inspired Soviet-style buildings.
Things picked up in the 1990s and in recent years Vientiane has seen a relative explosion of construction, road redevelopment and vehicular traffic, much of it financed by China, the country that will likely have the most significant influence on Vientiane's future.
Vientiane
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
1Sights
The bulk of sights are concentrated in a small area in the centre of the city. With the exception of Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park), all sights are easily reached by bicycle and, in most cases, on foot. If you're interested in visiting the city's minor temples, consider tackling our bicycle tour. Most wats welcome visitors after the monks have collected alms in the morning until about 6pm.
oCOPE Visitor CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(ສູນຟື້ນຟູຄົນພິການແຫ່ງຊາດ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-218427; www.copelaos.org; Th Khu Vieng; donations welcome; 
h9am-6pm)
F
COPE (Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise) is the main source of artificial limbs, walking aids and wheelchairs in Laos. Its excellent Visitor Centre, part of the organisation's National Rehabilitation Centre, offers myriad interesting and informative multimedia exhibits about prosthetics and the unexploded ordnance (UXO) that make them necessary.
Wat Si SaketBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດສີສະເກດ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Th Lan Xang & Th Setthathirath; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm, closed public holidays)
Built between 1819 and 1824 by Chao Anou, Wat Si Saket is believed to be Vientiane’s oldest surviving wat. And it is starting to show, as this beautiful temple is in need of a facelift. Along the western side of the cloister is a pile of Buddhas that were damaged during the 1828 Siamese-Lao war.
Haw Pha KaeoMUSEUM
(ຫໍພະແກ້ວ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Setthathirath; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)
Once a royal temple built specifically to house the famed Emerald Buddha, Haw Pha Kaeo is today a national museum of religious art. It is about 100m southeast of Wat Si Saket. The main hall contains a mix of Khmer carvings, Laotian Buddhas and relics from temples around town.
oPatuxaiMONUMENT
(ປະຕູໄຊ, Victory Monument
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Lan Xang; 3000K; h8am-5pm)
Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe replica is a slightly incongruous sight, dominating the commercial district around Th Lan Xang. Officially called 'Victory Monument' and commemorating the Lao who died in prerevolutionary wars, it was built in 1969 with cement donated by the USA intended for the construction of a new airport. Climb to the summit for panoramic views over Vientiane.
Lao National MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນປະຫວັດສາດແຫ່ງຊາດລາວ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-212461; Th Samsènethai; 10,000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)
Unfortunately, this charming French-era building, flanked by cherry blossom and magnolia trees, is due to be knocked down and moved to newer premises. It was formerly known as the Lao Revolutionary Museum, and much of its collection retains an unshakeable revolutionary zeal.
Wat Si MuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດສີເມືອງ
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; cnr Th Setthathirath, Th Samsènethai & Th Tha Deua; h6am-7pm, special days to 10pm)F
The most frequently used grounds in Vientiane are those of Wat Si Muang, the site of the lák méuang (city pillar), which is considered the home of the guardian spirit of Vientiane. The large sǐm (ordination hall; destroyed in 1828 and rebuilt in 1915) was constructed around the lák méuang, and consists of two halls.
The large entry hall features a copy of the Pha Kaeo (Emerald Buddha), and a much smaller, rather melted-looking seated stone Buddha that allegedly survived the 1828 inferno. Locals believe it has the power to grant wishes or answer troubling questions, and the practice is to lift it off the pillow three times while mentally phrasing a question or request. If your request is granted, then you are supposed to return later with an offering of bananas, green coconuts, flowers, incense and candles (usually two of each).
The pillar itself is located in the rear hall, and is believed to date from the Khmer period, indicating the site has been used for religious purposes for more than 1000 years. Today it is wrapped in sacred cloth, and in front of it is a carved wooden stele with a seated Buddha in relief.
Behind the sǐm is a crumbling laterite jęhdii (stupa), almost certainly of Khmer origin. Devotees deposit broken deity images and pottery around the stupa's base so the spirits of the stupa will 'heal' the bad luck created by the breaking of these items. In front of the sǐm is a little public park with a statue of King Sisavang Vong (1904–59).
Kaysone Phomivan MemorialMUSEUM
(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນແລະອະນຸສາວລີໄກສອນພົມວິຫານ
GOOGLE MAP
; Km 6, Silivay Village; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun)
In contrast to the huge Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, Kaysone's house is a remarkably modest affair, yet fascinating both because of its history and that it remains virtually untouched since the great man died in 1992. A Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP) guide will show you through the house, making for a remarkably good-value experience.
The house is inside the former USAID/CIA compound, a self-contained headquarters known as 'Six Klicks City' because of its location 6km from central Vientiane. It once featured bars, restaurants, tennis courts, swimming pools, a commissary and assorted offices from where the Secret War was orchestrated. During the 1975 takeover of Vientiane, Pathet Lao forces ejected the Americans and occupied the compound. Kaysone lived here until his death.
The house includes Kaysone's half-empty bottles of scotch, tacky souvenirs from the Eastern bloc, white running shoes, notepads and original Kelvinator air-conditioners. Even the winter coats he wore on visits to Moscow remain neatly hanging in the wardrobe.
Kaysone's house can be tricky to find, so it's easiest to backtrack from the nearby Kaysone Phomvihane Museum (ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນແລະອະນຸສາວລີໄກສອນພົມວິຫານ
GOOGLE MAP
; Km 6, Rte 13 South; 5000K; hmuseum 8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun). Head back towards the city centre and turn right at the first set of traffic lights, continuing about 1km until you see the sign on your right that says 'Mémorial du Président Kaysone Phomvihane'. Alternatively, a tuk-tuk will cost around 40,000K from the centre.
oPha That LuangBUDDHIST STUPA
(ພະທາດຫລວງ, Great Sacred Reliquary, Great Stupa
GOOGLE MAP
; Th That Luang; 5000K, rental of long skirt to enter temple 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun)
Svelte and golden Pha That Luang is the most important national monument in Laos; a symbol of Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Legend has it that Ashokan missionaries from India erected a tâht (stupa) here to enclose a piece of Buddha's breastbone as early as the 3rd century BC. Pha That Luang is about 4km northeast of the city centre.
Lao Textile MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນຜ້າໄໝບູຮານລາວ
GOOGLE MAP
; %030-5727423; 30,000K; h10am-4pm)
What began as a private museum, established by the family that runs Kanchana Boutique, has subsequently become something of a Lao cultural centre. The emphasis at this leafy traditional Lao compound is on textiles. There is a wooden house filled with looms and antique Lao textiles representing several ethnic groups, plus the museum offers courses in weaving and dyeing.
The museum is located about 3km northeast of the National Circus (Hong Kanyasin). We do not suggest visiting without first making a reservation at Kanchana Boutique, where you can also pick up a map. Otherwise you may find the place closed.
Xieng KhuanMUSEUM
(ຊຽງຂວັນ, Suan Phut, Buddha Park
GOOGLE MAP
; 5000K, camera 3000K; h8am-4.30pm)
Located 25km southeast of central Vientiane, eccentric Xieng Khuan, aka Buddha Park, thrills with other-worldly Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, and was designed and built in 1958 by Luang Pu, a yogi-priest-shaman who merged Hindu and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and iconography into a cryptic whole. Bus number 14 (8000K, one hour, 24km) leaves Talat Sao Bus Station every 15 minutes for Xieng Khuan. Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk (200,000K return).
Wat ChanthabuliBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Fa Ngoum)
This beautiful riverside wat was built in the 16th century, destroyed during the Siamese invasion of 1828 and later fully restored to its present glory. It's notable for its enormous bronze seated Buddha.
Wat MixaiBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Setthathirath)F
One of a cluster of temples on the main drag, known for its Bangkok-style sǐm and heavy gates, which are flanked by two nyak (guardian giants).
Wat Ong Teu MahawihanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Setthathirath)F
This temple is one of the most important in Laos. It was originally built in the mid-16th century by King Setthathirat and is believed to occupy a site first used for religious purposes in the 3rd century. However, like almost every other temple in Vientiane it was destroyed in later wars with the Siamese, then rebuilt in the 20th century.
That DamMONUMENT
(Black Stupa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Bartholomie)
That Dam sits on a quiet roundabout near the centre of Vientiane. Legend has it that this stupa was once coated in a layer of gold. The gold is said to have been carted off by the Siamese during their pillaging of 1828, after which the stupa took the ‘black’ sobriquet in memory of the dastardly act.
VIEWING PHA THAT LUANG
Each level of Pha That Luang has different architectural features in which Buddhist doctrine is encoded; visitors are supposed to contemplate the meaning of these features as they walk around. The first level is an approximately square base measuring 68m by 69m that supports 323 sĕe máh (ordination stones). It represents the material world, and also features four arched hŏr wái (prayer halls), one on each side, with short stairways leading to them and beyond to the second level.
The second level is 48m by 48m and is surrounded by 120 lotus petals. There are 288 sĕe máh on this level, as well as 30 small stupas symbolising the 30 Buddhist perfections (báhlamée săhm-síp tat), beginning with alms-giving and ending with equanimity.
Arched gates again lead to the next level, a 30m by 30m square. The tall central stupa, which has a brick core that has been stuccoed over, is supported here by a bowl-shaped base reminiscent of India's first Buddhist stupa at Sanchi. At the top of this mound the superstructure, surrounded by lotus petals, begins.
The curvilinear, four-sided spire resembles an elongated lotus bud and is said to symbolise the growth of a lotus from a seed in a muddy lake bottom to a bloom over the lake's surface, a metaphor for human advancement from ignorance to enlightenment in Buddhism. The entire tâht was regilded in 1995 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Lao People's Democratic Republic (PDR), and is crowned by a stylised banana flower and parasol. From ground to pinnacle, Pha That Luang is 45m tall.
VIENTIANE IN...
TWO DAYS
Start with a coffee and croissant at Le Banneton before embarking on the Monument to Mekong cycling tour, taking you through most of Vientiane's main sights, including Wat Si Saket, Haw Pha Kaeo and Talat Sao. Top off your day with riverside cocktails at Spirit House. On day two consider getting some motorised wheels and leaving the city centre to visit the concrete Buddhas and Hindu deities at Xieng Khuan. On the way back stop at Pha That Luang for great afternoon photos. Enjoy a fine French dinner at Le Silapa.
FOUR DAYS
Depending on what time you crawl out of bed on day three, make PVO your lunch destination. It's then a short walk to the COPE Visitor Centre, where you could easily spend a couple hours checking out the excellent exhibits and powerful documentaries. After a light Lao dinner at Khambang Lao Food Restaurant, head to nearby Herbal Sauna for a healthy Lao-style sweat. Rehydrate with draught Beerlao at Bor Pen Yang.
Day four can be spent at a Lao cooking course at Villa Lao, handicraft and textile shopping along Thanon Nokèokoummane, rummaging for communist wristwatches and glass Buddhas at Indochina Handicrafts, or sniffing and waxing lyrical about the handmade soaps and oils at T'Shop Lai Gallery.
2Activities
Nakarath TravelADVENTURE SPORTS
Upscale destination management company based in Vientiane that arranges guided cultural immersions around the country.
Sinouk Coffee PavilionCOFFEE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %030-2000654; www.sinouk-cafe.com; Km 9, Th Tha Deua; h8am-5pm)
Located at the headquarters of Sinouk Coffee, one of Laos' best-known coffee producers, this is an education in the bean. Learn more about the art of coffee production at the coffee gallery and mini-museum paying homage to caffeine, and in roasting and cupping rooms, where you might be lucky enough to see the production process underway.
Regular cupping sessions are held on Saturdays, but check on its Facebook page (sinoukcoffeeofficial) for details. This is like wine tasting for coffee connoisseurs and costs about 60,000K for a two-hour session. To book a private session, contact Sinouk one day in advance. Short barista courses are also available and you'll end up knowing how to decorate an artisan coffee. There is an on-site Sinouk Cafe here that makes a good stop on the way to or from Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park) if you have your own wheels. It is signposted just past the US Embassy when travelling towards the Friendship Bridge from Vientiane.
Ocean ParkWATER PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %030-2819014; ITECC Vientiane; adult/child 50,000/25,000K; h11am-7pm)
Shiver me timbers me hearties! This new water park has a pirate theme and includes a good range of slides, tubes, lazy river riding and more. A good option for families on a hot day.
Lao Bowling CentreBOWLING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-218661; Th Khounboulom; per game with shoe hire 16,000K; h9am-midnight)
Bright lights, Beerlao and boisterous bowlers are what you'll find here. While the equipment is in bad shape, it's still a fun place to come later in the evening for a Lao-style night out. It sometimes stays open into the wee hours.
2Cycling Tour
Monument to Vientiane
Start Le Banneton
End Chokdee Cafe
Length 5km; four to six hours
Vientiane is a great city to explore on bicycle. We suggest starting in the cool hours of the morning and including breakfast and lunch stops; if you're doing the tour later you could regard these as lunch and dinner stops. Some attractions, such as Talat Khua Din, are best visited early in the day.
Begin your day with coffee and a crispy croissant at one of Th Nokèokoummane's excellent French bakeries such as 1Le Banneton. There's a bike-rental place virtually next door, and a few more on adjacent Th François Ngin; most open at 7am and charge about 10,000K per day.
Hop on your bike, turn on to one-way Th Setthathirath, and passing 2Nam Phu, Vientiane's underwhelming fountain, continue about 1km to the stoplight. On your right is the 3Presidential Palace, a vast beaux-arts-style chateau built to house the French colonial governor.
Directly opposite is 4Wat Si Saket, with its thousands of Buddha figures, and just up the road, 5Haw Pha Kaeo, the national museum for religious objects. By arriving in the morning you'll beat most of the crowds.
Continuing on along Th Setthathirath, cross Th Mahasot and turn left down Th Gallieni. You'll know you're in the right place by the white walls of the 6French Embassy on your left and the towering 7Sacred Heart Cathedral on your right. Continue northwest along this street until you reach the T-intersection; on the opposite side is the barely noticeable entrance to 8Talat Khua Din, one of Vientiane's largest fresh-food markets.
Continuing northwest along Th Khu Vieng, turn right onto Th Lan Xang, a street sometimes (very) generously described as the 'Champs-Elysées of the East'. At this point you're directly in front of Vientiane's biggest market, 9Talat Sao, a great place for textiles.
Continuing northeast along Th Lan Xang, you'll pass by the aTourist Information Centre. At this point you're also only 500m from bPatuxai, which is worth climbing for unbeatable views of the city.
Circle around Patuxai and go back southwest along Th Lan Xang. Turn right into quiet Th Bartholomie. Pass the site of the cformer US Embassy and continue to dThat Dam. The gold that covered this stupa was allegedly carted off by the Siamese during their pillaging of 1828. If you can pass here without being swallowed by the giant naga (river serpent) that allegedly lurks beneath, continue southwest and turn right onto Th Samsènethai.
Continue two blocks until, on your left-hand, side you see the gaudy Chinese-funded eLao National Culture Hall. Directly opposite this is the fLao National Museum, worth a stop to gain some insight into ancient and modern Laos.
Continue another 500m along one-way Th Samsènethai until you reach the stoplight. Turn left and head southwest along Th Khounboulom. Continue until you reach gKhambang Lao Food Restaurant. This family-run place is central Vientiane's best Lao restaurant and your lunch destination.
Backtrack a block northeast along Th Khounboulom until you reach hWat In Paeng, famed for the artistry displayed in the stucco relief of the sǐm (ordination hall). Weaving to Th Setthathirath via Th Chao Anou, park your bike at iWat Ong Teu Mahawihan and visit the temple's namesake, a 16th-century bronze Buddha measuring 5.8m tall and weighing several tonnes. The sǐm that houses the Buddha is famous for the wooden facade over its front terrace, a masterpiece of Lao carving. Take a break at shady and little-visited jWat Haysoke before your final temple stop, kWat Mixai, with its Bangkok-style sǐm and heavy gates, flanked by two nyak (guardian giants).
Continue east on Th Setthathirath until you reach the Nam Phu fountain again and turn right down Th Pangkham, then right again on Th Fa Ngoum where you will find the lChokdee Cafe, a homely little spot with an incredible number of Belgian beers to slake your well-earned thirst.
Health & Fitness
Vientiane Yoga StudioYOGA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-78510490; www.vientianeyogastudio.weebly.com; 90min class 80,000K; h9am & 6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm & 5.30pm Sat)
Hatha, vinyasa, yin and advanced (upside-down) yoga, as well as pilates, are available at this location in a quiet garden down a secluded street. Instructor Nanci has 10 years' experience.
Bee Bee FitnessHEALTH & FITNESS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-315877; 1-day membership 45,000K; h6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-9pm Sat & Sun)
This terrific gym overlooks the Mekong so you can run on a treadmill and watch passing boats. There's loads of room to enjoy its decent equipment: rowing machines, spinning bikes and weightlifting apparatus. Regular Zumba and pilates classes are available. It's located opposite the Australian embassy.
Massage & Spa
oOasisMASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th François Ngin; h9am-9pm)
Cool, clean and professional, Oasis is an excellent central place to enjoy a foot massage (50,000K), a Lao-style body massage (60,000K) or a peppermint body scrub (200,000K), to name a few. Probably the best-value spa in the city.
Tangerine Garden SpaSPA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-251452; off Th Fa Ngoum; h9am-9pm)
Arguably the most upscale spa in Vientiane, Tangerine Garden is located opposite the beautiful Ansara Hôtel and complements its colonial-era look. The Sino-Lao lobby sets the tone for a relaxing journey that includes foot massage (80,000K), aroma massage (180,000K) and the 'office syndrome' massage (100,000K) that focuses on the neck, shoulders and back.
Herbal SaunaMASSAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-55044655; off Th Chao Anou; h1-9pm)
Located near the river, this no-frills outfit offers Lao-style herbal saunas (15,000K) in separate rooms for men and women. In addition to the sauna it also offers a variety of massage, including Lao (per hour 40,000K), oil (per hour 80,000K) and foot (per hour 40,000K).
Wat Si AmphonSPA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Th Si Amphon; h7am-5pm)
Wat Si Amphon does herbal saunas and is one of the only temples to offer this experience after the demise of the Wat Sok Pa Luang herbal sauna in a 2013 fire.
CCourses
Houey Hong Vocational Training Center for WomenWEAVING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-560006; www.houeyhongcentre.com; Ban Houey Hong; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
You can learn how to dye textiles using natural pigments and then weave them on a traditional loom at this NGO centre, run by a Lao-Japanese woman. It was established north of Vientiane to train disadvantaged rural women in the dying art of natural dyeing and traditional silk-weaving practices.
Visitors can look for free or partake in the dyeing process (100,000K, two hours, one scarf) or weaving (250,000K, whole day). You keep the fruits of your labour. Transport to and from the centre is provided for an additional 50,000K from True Colour, the centre's retail location in town.
Villa LaoCOOKING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-22217588; www.villalaos.com; off Th Nong Douang; half-day class per person US$25)
Villa Lao offers cooking courses at 9am and 1pm by appointment, and involve a trip to the market, preparation of three dishes of your choice and sampling your creations. It's a very peaceful setting for classes, like a slice of country life in the city.
Summer Study Abroad in LaosLANGUAGE
(SAIL; www.laostudies.org/sail; 5-week course US$2760)
An intensive language study program at a variety of levels hosted by the Lao-American College in Vientiane.
TTours
oTuk Tuk SafariCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %020-54333089; www.tuktuksafari.com; adult/child under 12 US$70/40; h8am-5pm)
This community-conscious tour company gets under the skin of Vientiane in a tuk-tuk. Tour guide Ere spirits you to a Lao market; a silversmith's workshop; behind the scenes at a restaurant helping street kids learn to become chefs (before sampling their delicious food!); and finally, the inspiring COPE Visitor Centre for UXO victims.
Lao Disabled Women's Development CentreCULTURAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %021-812282; http://laodisabledwomen.com; 100 Th Tha Deua; tours 50,000-100,000K; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, weekends by appointment)
S
Run by a collective of Lao disabled women, this centre challenges the prejudices that the disabled community in Laos sometimes faces. Concentrating on abilities, the centre offers training and education to empower disabled women. It is open to drop-in visitors for free, or you can sign up for a tour to learn about recycled-paper handicrafts.
Backstreet AcademyTOURS
(%020-58199216; www.backstreetacademy.com)
For some original local encounters, contact Backstreet Academy, a peer-to-peer travel website that specialises in connecting travellers to cultural experiences with local hosts. Choose from a muay Lao (kickboxing) class, a traditional dance lesson, a Lao cooking class in a private home, a painting class, zen meditation and a whole lot more.
zFestivals & Events
Pi MaiCULTURAL
(hApr)
Lao New Year is celebrated in mid-April with a mass water fight and tourists are considered fair game. Be warned, drunk driving and theft go through the roof at these times so remain vigilant with your driver and wallet!
Bun NamSPORTS
(Bun Suang Héua; hOct)
A huge annual event at the end of pansăh (the Buddhist rains retreat) in October, during which boat races are held on the Mekong River. Rowing teams from all over the country, as well as from Thailand, China and Myanmar (Burma), compete; the river bank is lined with food stalls, temporary discos, carnival games and beer gardens for three days and nights.
Bun Pha That LuangCULTURAL
(That Luang Festival; hNov)
Bun Pha That Luang, usually held in early November, is the largest temple fair in Laos. Festivities begin with a wéean téean (circumambulation) around Wat Si Muang, followed by a procession to Pha That Luang, which is illuminated all night for a week.
The festival climaxes on the morning of the full moon with the đák bàht ceremony, in which thousands of monks from across Laos receive alms. Fireworks cap off the evening and everyone makes merit or merry until dawn. Look out for devotees carrying Ъąhsàht (miniature temples made from banana stems and decorated with flowers and other offerings).
4Sleeping
Thanon Setthathirath & Nam Phu
Dream Home Hostel 2HOSTEL$
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; %020-95591102; dreamhomehostel2@gmail.com; Th Sihom; dm 50,000K, r US$25; 
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A classic backpacker crash pad, this is one of the most popular hostels in the city. Reception introduces the party atmosphere with some cranked-up tunes and a pool table, and murals deck the upper walls. The rooms are actually pretty good value given the size and features like flat-screen TV – almost flashpacker territory.
Vientiane Backpackers HostelHOSTEL$
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; %020-97484277; www.vientianebackpackershostel.com; Th Nokèokoummane; dm incl breakfast 40,000K; 
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This fresh hostel has three mixed dorms for 12, 16 and 20 people. There's a cafe selling burgers and shakes, laundry services, free wi-fi, and bicycle/motorbike hire (10,000/70,000K). Bathrooms and showers are modern and clean, but there's no self-catering. Free ticketing and visa services round things off.
Orange Backpacker HostelHOSTEL$
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; %020-22455588; vonglatsamy24@gmail.com; Th Sihom; dm 45,000K, r 70,000-120,000K; aiW)
A popular backpacker hostel in the emerging Th Sihom strip, Orange has cheap dorms for those on a budget, especially when you consider the rate includes breakfast. Air-con rooms start at 100,000K and internet access is available for 10,000K per hour, as well as free wi-fi.
Sport GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
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; %021-241352; sportguesthouse.sg@hotmail.com; Th François Ngin; with fan/air-con r 80,000/100,000K, tr 120,000/150,000K; naiW)
Formerly the Lao Youth Inn; rooms here are a little boxy but fragrant, with spotless bathrooms and polished tiled floors, and what the place lacks in refinement it makes up for in amenities, including a decent cafe and juice bar, ticketing services, and bicycle and motorbike hire (10,000/60,000K).
Lucky BackpackerHOSTEL$
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; %021-255636; Th Manthatourath; dm/d 40,000/140,000K; aW)
A clean new joint, with spacious dorms, decent showers and a private double room with air-con but no window. Beds have lockers underneath but no locks. Friendly management.
oLV City Riverine HotelHOTEL$$
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; %021-214643; www.lvcitylaos.com; 48 Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast 220,000-390,000K; naW)
Not to be confused with various other 'city' hotels in the capital, the LV has a great location near the riverfront. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, although it is worth the ego-massage of VIP just for the four-poster bed and extra space. Rooms include laundry, so will be even better value if you are returning from a jungle trek.
oHotel KhamvongsaHOTEL$$
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; %021-218415; www.hotelkhamvongsa.com; Th Khounboulom; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$40/60/80; naW)
Lovely French-era building lovingly reincarnated as a welcoming boutique hotel; think belle époque touches like glass tear lightshades, chess-tiled floors, and softly lit simple rooms with two-poster beds, wood floors and Indo-chic decor. Rooms on the 3rd and 4th floors have masterful views. There's also a restful courtyard and restaurant. Breakfast is a treat.
Vientiane Garden HotelHOTEL$$
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; %021-241964; http://vientianegardenhotel.com; 56 Th Sihom; r incl breakfast US$40-80; naW
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Something of a flashpacker hotel amid an emerging strip of backpacker hostels, this is a little oasis that's not immediately apparent from the understated entrance. Venture inside to find a hidden courtyard pool and leafy garden that are perfect places to cool down on a hot day. Upstairs rooms command a slight premium.
Lani's House by the PondGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-215639; www.lanishouse-bytheponds.com; Th Setthathirath; s/d/ste US$45/65/80; naW)
Down a narrow side street leading to a temple, this white art deco–accented villa evokes Indochina with its authentic Parisien chandeliers, antique furniture, lobby peppered with stunning images of old Laos, and coy carp in an ornamental pool. It's hard to believe you're in the city centre. Huge rooms with shabby-chic armoire, cable TV and fridge. Tasteful.
Vayakorn InnHOTEL$$
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; %021-215348; www.vayakorn.biz; 19 Th Hèngbounnoy; r US$35; naiW)
On a quiet street just off increasingly hectic Th Setthathirath, this tasteful, peaceful hotel is great value given its chandeliered lobby festooned in handicrafts and hardwood floors. Generously sized rooms are impeccably clean, with crisp linen, choice art, flat-screen TVs, desks and modern bathrooms. The rooms on the upper floors have excellent city views.
Manorom Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
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; %021-250748; manoromboutiquehotel@hotmail.com; Th Hèngbounnoy; r US$35-45; naW)
Looming large over a small soi (lane) in the centre of town, this hotel offers exceptional value. The stylish lobby sets the tone for a well-presented Lao hospitality experience including polished wood floors, silk runners and tasteful handicrafts. This is verging on the budget boutique.
Phonepaseuth Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(
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; %021-212263; 97 Th Pangkham; r from US$28; naiW)
This old, trusty place near Nam Phu is still going strong thanks to cool, spacious rooms, clean en suites, cable TV, wi-fi and fresh walls and linen. Opt for rooms facing the road if you want your own little balcony. Some nice interior touches include Hmong bed runners and wall-mounted shell lampshades.
Souphaphone GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-261468; www.souphaphone.net; off Th François Ngin; r 170,000-200,000K; naiW)
A very tidy and house-proud guesthouse with 22 rooms, some with windows but all with fresh linen, cool tiled floors and pristine walls. Rooms also include attached bathroom, fridge, wi-fi and TV. Understandably, given the price point, it's often booked up.
Salana Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-254254; www.salanaboutique.com; Th Chao Anou; standard/deluxe r US$135/145, ste from US$200; naW)
Highly polished, wood-flavoured Salana fuses Lao and contemporary styles to add a sleek dimension to Vientiane's accommodation scene. Rooms have wood floors, ethnically inspired bed runners, soft lighting, flat-screen TVs, safety deposit boxes, rain showers and nice little touches including frangipani flowers scattered around. Some rooms have fantastic temple views.
Dhavara Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-222238; www.dhavarahotel.com; 25 Th Manthatourath; r US$180-600; naiW)
An opulent neoclassical hotel, the Dhavara offers some of the smartest rooms in the capital. Features include marble-clad bathrooms and parquet floors, as well as more predictable touches such as free wi-fi and a well-stocked minibar.
Le Luxe Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-255777; www.leluxehotel.com; Th Fa Ngoum; r US$68-148; naW)
Le Luxe Boutique does what it says on the tin and combines a boutique hotel with some affordable luxe. With just 15 rooms, it is an intimate place to stay and the attention to detail is evident in every aspect. Good location in a quiet backstreet near the river.
Thanon Samsenthai & Around
Syri 1 Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
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; %021-212682; Th Saigon; r 50,000-150,000K; aiW)
Syri sits on a quiet street and has been a traveller fave for many years, and with good reason: generously sized rooms (with air-con or fan, en suite or shared bathroom), recesses to chill, a DVD lounge, bikes for rent, and tailored bike tours of the city. And 100% friendly.
Avalon B & BB&B$
(
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; %030-5828801; avalonbed@gmail.com; Th Phanompenh; dm 50,000-70,000K, r 200,000-240,000K, all incl breakfast; naW)
A popular little guesthouse on the backstreets near the national stadium, with 10-bed dorms available, including female-only options. The rooms are spacious and well appointed and all rates include a basic breakfast downstairs. Part of a growing Avalon empire that includes hotels in Vientiane and Savannakhet.
Champa Garden HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
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; %020-91585858; http://champagardenhotel.com; off Th François Ngin; r US$50-60; naWs)
Tucked away just off popular Th François Ngin, this is a delightful all-wooden boutique hotel set around a courtyard swimming pool. Despite its central location in the capital, it is very peaceful and feels more like a Luang Prabang–style hideaway. Rooms include flat-screen TV and a safety deposit box.
Day Inn HotelHOTEL$$
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; %021-222985; dayinn@laopdr.com; 59/3 Th Pangkham; s/d/tr incl breakfast 500,000/600,000/900,000K; naiW)
This old-timer is something of a business-traveller's choice, and from its vanilla exterior to its restaurant serving up Asian fusion cuisine, it's easy to understand why. It has 32 rooms, although some are starting to show their age, with large beds, bureau, flat-screen TVs, air-con and no-nonsense international-style decor. There's also free airport pick-up.
City InnHOTEL$$
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; %021-281333; www.cityinnvientiane.com; Th Pangkham; r incl breakfast 600,000-1,000,000K; naiW)
As well as offering long-term apartment stays, this place is one of the smarter midrange biz-boutique hotels in town. The contemporary lobby sets the tone for a smooth stay with the rooms exhibiting some artsy flourishes, as well as amenities galore.
oSettha Palace HotelHOTEL$$$
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; %021-217581; www.setthapalace.com; 6 Th Pangkham; r standard/deluxe US$157/185, ste US$330; naiWs)
This stately building, set in grounds ablaze with flowers, is as graceful as it is relaxing. Fans whirr over marble floors so polished you can see your champagne glass in them, while service is impeccable. Rooms, particularly the larger deluxe ones, are also enchanting, with four-poster beds, desks and wood floors. Check out the kidney-shaped pool.
Lao Plaza HotelHOTEL$$$
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; %021-218800; www.laoplazahotel.com; 63 Th Samsènethai; s/d US$190/215, ste US$380, all incl breakfast; naWs)
A strong choice for business travellers, this blandly designed marbled edifice boasts a vast international-style lobby and comfy rooms. Expect wi-fi, fridges, cable TV, bath-tubs and silk bedheads. There's also a great pool here (120,000K for nonguests) perfect for sun basking and escaping the heat.
Mekong Riverfront & Around
oMixay Paradise GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
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; %021-254223; laomixayparadise@yahoo.com; Th François Ngin; s/d with fan & shared bathroom 90,000/100,000K, r with air-con & bathroom 130,000-150,000K; naW)
Mixay Paradise has 50 rooms with pastel-coloured walls, some of which have balconies, bathrooms and air-con. Spotless floors, a lovely lobby cafe with lime-green walls and a lift. One of the best, most hygienic budget options in the city. Safety deposit lockers cost 50,000K.
Villa ManolyGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-218907; www.villa-manoly.com; off Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$35-45; naWs)
This beautifully antiquated house, in a garden swimming in mature plants and frangipani flowers, feels like the sort of place John le Carré might ensconce himself in to write a novel, especially given its collection of vintage telephones and typewriters. Nicely furnished rooms with wood floors, air-con, en suites and bedside lamps look on to a delightful pool. It's like a boutique homestay.
Auberge Sala InpengGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-242021; www.salalao.com; Th In Paeng; r incl breakfast US$25-50; naW)
Unlike anything else in the city, this vernal oasis of wood cabanas and a handsome traditional Laotian house is set in gardens spilling with tamarind and champa flowers. The grander rooms display rustic chic with bathrooms and air-con. And although the cheaper cabanas are small, they don't lack atmosphere. Meanwhile, staff are as welcoming as a slice of home.
Best Western VientianeHOTEL$$
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; %021-216909; www.bestwesternvientiane.com; 2-12 Th François Ngin; s/d incl breakfast US$75/85; naiWs)
This gleaming hotel is a welcoming spot if you're looking for a cool, plush lobby, calm garden with pool, gym and a general sense of upscale style. There's also a tempting Asian fusion restaurant attached. Rooms, of which there are 44, are equally swanky with wood floors, snow-white linen and quality fittings.
Lao Silk HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-213976; www.laosilkhotel.com; Th François Ngin; r 189,000-328,000K; naW)
All 20 rooms in this sleek hotel are fragrantly fresh and well attired in stylish decor and bijou en suites. While rooms might be a little small for a professional wrestler, the wi-fi, cable TV, air-con and general plushness make this one a winner. Downstairs is a relaxing cafe-bar to work or read in. Monthly rates are available from US$500.
Hotel Beau Rivage MekongGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %021-243375; www.hbrm.com; Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$47-59; naiW)
A little less romantic from the outside since the dirt track running parallel with the river was paved and denuded of trees, this pink boutique hotel still packs a punch, with superb rooms decked in bamboo screens, waffled bedspreads, high ceilings and a pleasant garden out back. All rooms are named after Lao provinces.
Intercity HotelHOTEL$$
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; %021-242843; 24-25 Th Fa Ngoum; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$40/60/80; aiW)
While unprepossessing and dust-ridden from its river-facing exterior, within its wine-dark walls, however, is a world of mosaic floors and 46 rooms boasting traditional art and fine handicrafts. The deluxe rooms are far superior with romantic Mekong views while the standards in comparison are forgettable.
Lao Orchid HotelHOTEL$$
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; %021-264134; www.lao-orchid-hotel.com; Th Chao Anou; d/ste incl breakfast 615,000/945,000K; aW)
An attractive, modern hotel with a swish lobby and chilled verandah cafe with a great view of the road. There are 32 welcoming rooms here with varnished wood floors, mint-fresh linen, desks, balconies, fridges and Indochinese-style furniture. Ask for a room at the front to take in the Mekong views. Good value.
oAnsara HôtelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-213514; www.ansarahotel.com; off Th Fa Ngoum; r US$125-160, ste US$190-330, all incl breakfast; naiW)
Achingly beautiful Ansara is housed in a pair of colonial-chic French villas with a heavy whiff of old Indochina. There are 28 rooms set across the property, including four suites, and all are lovely, offering wooden floor, balcony, flat-screen TV, bath and refined decorations. Its alfresco dining terrace is as refined as its Gallic cuisine.
oS Park Design HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-256339; www.sparkdesignhotel.com; 40 Th Dongnasok; r US$70-120; naiWs)
This place has some serious style on the inside. The reception will get you hooked, with a chopped-up classic Mercedes for a front desk and a vintage Vespa. It wouldn't be out of place in Hip Hotels with its contemporary look. It features 64 rooms, all with separated toilet.
THE LEGEND OF WAT SI MUANG
Legend has it that a group of sages selected the site for Wat Si Muang in 1563, when King Setthathirat moved his capital to Vientiane. Once the spot was chosen, a large hole was dug to receive the heavy stone pillar (probably taken from an ancient Khmer site nearby) that would become the lák méuang (city pillar). When the pillar arrived it was suspended over the hole with ropes. Drums and gongs were sounded to summon the townspeople to the area and everyone waited for a volunteer to jump into the hole as a sacrifice to the spirit.
Depending on who's relating it, the legend has several conclusions. What is common to all of them is that a pregnant woman named Sao Si leaped in and the ropes were released, killing her and in the process establishing the town guardianship. Variations include her leaping in upon a horse, and/or with a diminutive monk.
However, Lao scholars think that if there is any truth to this story it is likely to have occurred much earlier than Setthathirat's time, in the pre-Buddhist Mon or Khmer periods when human sacrifice was ritually practised…and that Sao Si's legendary leap might not have been her choice at all.
Around Vientiane
Villa LaoGUESTHOUSE$$
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; %020-22217588; www.villalaos.com; off Th Nong Douang; r US$20-80; naiW)
A garden oasis about 1km west of town, Villa Lao sprawls with ferns and palms, and has 23 delightful, rustic rooms bursting with character: think wood stilts, white walls, mosquito nets and a charming communal balcony and lounge. The cheapest rooms are bare, fan-cooled and have shared bathrooms; however, all rooms are large and cool with low-lying beds.
oMandala Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-214493; www.mandalahotel.asia; off Th Fa Ngoum; r incl breakfast US$75-100; naiW)
This super chic boutique hotel offers the city's brightest, coolest accommodation (we're talking Wallpaper rather than the Fonz). An old French villa built in the 1960s is its setting, and flashes of vivid colour and chichi flourishes such as lacquered granite floors, flat-screen TVs and dark-wood furniture blend perfectly with the aesthetic of its art-deco lines.
Green Park Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
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; %021-264097; www.greenparkvientiane.com; 248 Th Khu Vieng; r incl breakfast US$150-450; naiWs)
A real urban oasis, this charming boutique hotel exudes calm and escapism from the moment you enter its dark-wood lobby and step into its lush garden abuzz with flowers and a sparkling pool, and shaded by sugar palms and frangipani trees. Rooms are super stylish and feature hardwood floors, capacious bathrooms, couches, safety deposit boxes and step-in mosquito nets.
5Eating
For such a small capital city, Vientiane boasts a range of culinary options. The city has a wide range of global cuisine, including everything from falafel at an authentic Turkish restaurant to upscale Japanese and Korean barbecue. The streets that radiate off Th Setthathirath are vivid with smells and steam as old-school restaurants serve up fine Italian and French fare in the choicest of surroundings.
Lao food has in recent years enjoyed a real contemporary makeover with well-executed traditional dishes given a modern twist in 21st-century-style restaurants. If it's comfort food you seek, look no further than the bakeries left by the French footprint, for the city is famous for its fresh-baked baguettes and crispy croissants, with full-bodied coffee that could make the Seine glow green with envy.
For all its Gallic refinement Vientiane is equally informal; cheap food on the hop can be grabbed from street vendors dotted around the old quarter, and the impromptu braziers that fire up grilled chicken and Mekong fish on skewers. And don't miss the chance to wander through the redolent witch's broth that is Chinatown on Th Hengboun.
Thanon Setthathirath & Nam Phu
oNaked EspressoCAFE$
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; %020-56222269; Th Manthatourath; dishes 15,000-40,000K; h7am-5pm; aW)
One of the best-loved coffee shops in Vientiane, Naked specialises in home-grown Lao coffee and selected gourmet imports from places as diverse as Ethiopia and Indonesia. Light meals are also available, including salads and wraps, plus some impressive homemade cakes. Australian PM Malcolm Turnbull dropped by for a coffee in 2016.
JoMa Bakery CaféBAKERY$
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; Th Setthathirath; mains 20,000-50,000K; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; aW)
Vientiane's most contemporary bakery has a friendly, air-con-chilled atmosphere and a cornucopia of lush salads (30,000K) and bespoke subs and bagels – choose from salami, ham, salmon, chicken, cheese and salad fillings. It also serves brownies, cake and delicious yoghurt. Comfy couches, free wi-fi, unfailing cleanliness and superb staff. New branches have recently opened in the 'burbs.
Little HanoiVIETNAMESE$
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; Th Fa Ngoum; mains 30,000-60,000K; h9am-11.30pm; aW)
This mercifully chilled restaurant on the waterfront is peaceful and shadowy, with wall-mounted antique drums and soft lighting that transports you to the artist quarter of its eponymous city. The menu is varied and includes Hanoi pho (Vietnamese noodle soup), spring rolls, papaya salad and fried squid in celery.
Pricco CafeCAFE$
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; %021-215889; Th Nokèokoummane; mains 25,000-50,000K; h8am-8pm; aW)
A popular cafe not far from the Mekong River, Pricco offers reliable comfort food, including toasted baguettes, warm ciabatta creations and open sandwiches with little treats like goat's cheese and walnuts or smoked salmon and cream cheese. Indulgent desserts, fresh fruit shakes and creative coffees complete the picture.
Croissant d'OrBAKERY$
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; %021-223741; 96/1 Th Nokèokoummane; salads 20,000-40,000K; h6.30am-9pm; aW)
This simple bakery has a modest interior of umbrella-shaded lights and a cold counter of ham, salami, cheeses and salads. Its coffee packs a punch and the baguettes are fluffy.
Taj Mahal RestaurantINDIAN$
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; off Th Setthathirath; meals 25,000-60,000K; h10am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-10.30pm Sun; aW
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Hidden down a side-street opposite the back of the Lao National Culture Hall, this unpretentious earthy joint dishes up fresh and lively curries (tasty chicken masala) and melt-in-your mouth naan. Portions are generous and you can sit semi alfresco. There's a good vegie selection, too (20 dishes).
iPhoVIETNAMESE$
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; %030-9581163; off Th Setthathirath; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
This hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese eatery specialises in the eponymous pho, with various meat offerings. Other dishes include regional Vietnamese specialties like bo bun Hue (spicy beef noodle soup from the city of Hue) and broken-rice dishes.
Phimphone MarketMARKET$
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; 94/6 Th Setthathirath; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; aW)
This self-catering oasis stocks everything from gleaming fresh veg, to ice cream, imported salami, bread, biscuits and chocolate, as well as Western toiletries and magazines. It also stocks Hobo maps of the city. It's located in the same building as Benoni Café.
oLe BannetonBAKERY$$
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; Th Nokèokoummane; breakfast 45,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
Get here early before the country's best croissants run out. The simple interior makes for a nice place to read a paper over a tart, salad, panini or omelette, or you can sit outside on the small terrace. Tasty breakfasts and home-made marmalade and jam.
oMakphet RestaurantLAOTIAN$$
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; %021-260587; makphet-restaurant.org; Th In Paeng; mains 40,000-82,000K; h11am-10.30pm; aWv)S
Makphet, managed by Friends International (www.friends-international.org), helps disadvantaged kids build a future as chefs and waiters. The stunning villa sits in lush gardens, lit with fairy-lights at night. The interior is no less inviting, the service a cut above average, and the cuisine superb, with Lao fare like green papaya salad with aquatic beetle or buffalo láhp. It's a romantic spot.
AcquaITALIAN$$
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; %021-255466; www.acqua.la; 78 Th François Ngin; mains 40,000-200,000K, lunch buffet 98,000K; h11am-10pm; aW)
Considered by many residents to be the finest Italian restaurant in the city. The 98,000K lunch buffet is justifiably popular and includes a choice of entrées. Indulgent mains include sockeye-salmon ravioli and some sumptuous imported cuts from land and sea. The owner also runs Vinoteca, a leading wine importer, so the Italian wine list is top notch.
Khop Chai DeuASIAN, FUSION$$
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; %021-251564; 54 Th Setthathirath; mains 25,000-90,000K; h8am-midnight; aWv)
In a remodelled colonial-era villa near Nam Phu, Khop Chai Deu has been a travellers' favourite for years because of its range of well-prepared Lao, Thai, Indian and assorted European fare. Upstairs is a new low-lit bar with slick urban swagger.
Benoni CaféASIAN, FUSION$$
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; %021-213334; Th Setthathirath; mains 40,000-60,000K; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat; aW)
A stylish place on Th Setthathirath, Benoni is only open till early evening, which seems to be making it even more popular. Come lunchtime its contemporary interior is packed with NGO and Lao urbanites. The menu is Asian-fusion-meets-Italian, and includes super-fresh snacks, salads and pasta dishes.
AmphoneLAOTIAN$$
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; 10/3 Th Wat Xieng Nyean; mains 35,000-100,000K, set menu 80,000K; h11am-10pm; aW)
Featured on celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain's Discovery TV series, this upscale oasis of wood floors and salmon-coloured walls is refined and cool. Aside from an encyclopedic wine list, Amphone's menu replicates traditional Laotian dishes based on owner Mook's grandmother's creations. 'Luang Prabang sausage' and 'fish citronella' are but a couple.
Le VendômeFRENCH$$
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; 39 Th In Paeng; mains 40,000-90,000K; h5-10pm Tue-Sun; a)
Located behind a cascade of ivy, it's almost as if this vintage French restaurant is in hiding. The menu comprises very reasonably priced soufflés, pâtés, salads, wood-fired pizzas, terrines and steaks. The candlelit interior, peppered with vintage bull-fighting posters, is perfect for a romantic escape.
La TerrasseFRENCH$$
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; Th Nokèokoummane; mains 40,000-100,000K; h11am-2pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; aW)
With its old-fashioned French ambience of white-topped tables and custard-cream interior, this is a good spot for well-executed Gallic cuisine. There's plenty of choice, including steak au frites, steak Provencal, boeuf bourguignon, pan-fried fish, quiche, soup and thin-crust pizza. It's also popular with French expats for its tempting wine list.
OsakaJAPANESE$$
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; %021-213352; Th Nokèokoummane; mains 30,000-80,000K; h8am-10pm; aW)
A lively hole-in-the-wall, with slatted chairs on a plant-filled verandah, cosy Osaka tempts you inside with its lipstick-red booths. Oodles of noodle variations, sashimi, vegie dishes, sushi and tempura.
Sputnik BurgerBURGERS$$
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; %020-56386386; www.facebook.com/SputnikBurger; Th Setthathirath; mains 45,000-75,000K; h11am-10pm; aW)
A contemporary burger joint featuring great beef burgers with Swiss cheese, bacon, eggplant and many other additions and sauces. Salads and milkshakes too. Exposed-brick walls, low lighting and a bisected VW bug outside – which serves as two little booths – make this a fun spot. It's in the same building as Jazzy Brick.
oL'Adresse de TinayFRENCH$$$
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; %020-56913434; Wat Ongteu; mains 80,000-200,000K; h5-10.30pm; aW)
Alchemising an eclectic gastronomic landscape of snails and scrambled eggs, sea-bream fillet, beef tenderloin, rack of lamb and rosemary, plus to-die-for crème brûlée perfumed with Madagascan vanilla, Chef Tinay is one of the city's top chefs. Happy hour on bubbles and wine is from 5pm to 7pm daily. It's located behind the temple.
oPimentónSPANISH$$$
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; %021-215506; www.pimentonrestaurant-vte.com; Th Nokèokoummane; mains 60,000-200,000K, set lunch 75,000K; h11am-2.30pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; aW)
Pimentón, with its high ceilings and sleek bar, is widely considered to be the best steak restaurant in the capital. Only the choicest cuts of sirloin, chateaubriand and rib-eye make it to its fiery open grill. At lunch there's tapas: think imported jamón ibérico (a type of cured ham), calamares (squid) and charcuterie of cured meats. Run by a lovely husband-and-wife team.
oLe SilapaFRENCH$$$
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; %021-219689; 88 Th Setthathirath; mains 80,000-250,000K, set lunches 65,000-120,000K; h11am-11pm; aW)
Recently relocated Le Silapa is beautiful in its chichi whiteness complemented by the wood floors, raftered ceiling and birdcage lights. A contender for Vientiane's finest Gallic restaurant, it features favourites from foie gras to salads, and steaks to veal brains casserole. It's upstairs at the excellent iBeam bar. Magnifique, especially the excellent-value set lunches.
Thanon Samsènethai & Around
oKung's Cafe LaoLAOTIAN$
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; %021-219101; near Ministry of Health, Phiawat Village; mains 12,000-20,000K; h7am-4pm)
Approaching cult status with Vientiane residents in the know, Kung's Cafe is hard to find, but well worth the extra effort. Affable Kung has decorated the local diner with hanging gourds and has a simple and effective menu that is superb value. Try the sticky rice pancake or phat Lao and wash it down with a signature coffee and coconut.
Vieng SawanVIETNAMESE$
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; %021-213990; Th Hengboun; mains 20,000-50,000K; h11am-10pm; W)
In the middle of Chinatown, Vieng Sawan is a bustling open-sided restaurant that offers a fun eating experience. It specialises in nǎem néuang (Vietnamese barbecued pork meatballs) and many varieties of yáw (spring rolls), usually sold in 'sets' (sut) with khào pûn, fresh lettuce leaves, mint, basil, various sauces for dipping, sliced carambola (starfruit) and green banana.
Han Ton PhaiLAOTIAN$
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; %021-252542; Th Pangkham; mains 10,000-20,000K; h9am-10pm)
An escape from carb-heavy bakeries, this Lao mainstay is earthy and authentic, its menu spanning pork láhp (spicy Lao-style salad) to kôy pąa, a chunky salad of freshwater fish and fresh herbs (10,000K to 20,000K). There's no English-language sign, so keep an eye open for the billboard that says 'traditional food'.
PVOVIETNAMESE$
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; %021-454663; off Th Simeuang; mains 15,000-25,000K; h6am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; Wv)
This fresh, no-frills Vietnamese-run eatery is one of the better places in town to grab lunch, and in addition to several tasty spring-roll-based Vietnamese dishes, PVO does some of the best khào jįi pá-tê (baguettes with liver pâté, veg and cream cheese, dripping with sweet chilli sauce) in town.
That Dam NoodleLAOTIAN$
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; %021-214441; mains 15,000-30,000K; h8.30am-2pm)
Hidden away down a side street near That Dam, this place is run by an affable Lao chef who is clearly proud of his noodle-soup creations. Duck is a speciality, but chicken, pork and fish variations are also available. Look out for the larger-than-life sign of the owner with a steaming bowl of soup.
Jamil Zahid Punjab RestaurantPAKISTANI$
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; %020-58871133; Ban Haysoke; mains 25,000-50,000K; h10am-10pm; Wv)
Run by the irrepressible Jamil, who likes to take photographs of all his customers to post on Facebook (although there's is no offence taken if you decline the opportunity to be immortalised). The predominantly Pakistani and North Indian menu is excellent and good value, but the place is a little hard to find as it's tucked away down an alley.
Noy's Fruit HeavenCAFE$
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; Th Hengboun; mains 20,000-30,000K; h7am-9pm; aW)
Noy's is a homely, colourful juice bar with Chinese paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. Stop in to pick up a few of your 'five a day' or decimate your hangover with one of its dragonfruit, coconut, mango, or tomato-juice shakes (10,000K). It also turns out super fresh fruit salads and burgers, and rents bikes (10,000K).
Temple View CafeCAFE$
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; %021-262359; mains 19,000-89,000K; h10am-5pm; aW)
A popular bolt-hole for those in the know, this cafe offers a temple view of Wat Haysoke. The menu is very affordable and includes a mix of light Lao bites and general cafe fare of salads and wraps. It's a funky little spot with the added bonus of air-con on a hot day.
Baguette & Pâté VendorSTREET FOOD$
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; Th Samsènethai; half/whole baguette 11,000/22,000K; h6am-8pm)
Serves great khào jįi pá-tê (baguettes with liver pâté, veg and cream cheese, dripping with sweet chilli sauce). There's no English-language sign here, but the stall is directly on the corner of Th Pangkham and Th Samsènethai.
Once Upon a TimeCAFE$
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; %030-5809988; Th Dong Palan; mains 20,000-40,000K; h7am-6pm; aW)
Feed your inner princess with a trip to this fairy-tale-themed cafe in the Phonthan part of town. The owner-barista here has won multiple awards in Thailand and the coffee will definitely deliver a caffeine fix. The breakfasts are a cut above the guesthouse and budget-hotel offerings.
oLao KitchenLAOTIAN$$
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; %021-254332; www.lao-kitchen.com; Th Hengboun; mains 40,000-70,000K; h11am-10pm; aWv)
This superb contemporary Lao restaurant is unfailingly creative in its execution of trad-Lao dishes. Colourful walls, alt tunes and decent service complement a menu spanning stews, Luang Prabang sausage, láhp variations, stir-fried morning glory (water spinach), spring rolls, Mekong fish soup and palate-friendly sorbets. Choose the level of spice with chilli gradings of one to three.
La Cag du CoqFRENCH$$
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; %020-54676065; off Th Hengboun; mains 40,000-100,000K; h11am-11pm; W)
Named after the fighting-cock cages that ornately decorate the garden, this is a classic French restaurant offering duck confit, buffalo fillet and coquilles San-Jacques (angel-hair-encrusted scallops in this case). Popular weekend brunch, plus the owner is known for his penchant for big-screen rugby.
Korean RestaurantKOREAN$$
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; %020-22087080; Th Hengboun; mains 30,000-180,000K; h9am-11pm; aW)
Lacklustre name aside, this Korean-run place is great for sampling what is currently the most popular foreign cuisine in Southeast Asia. Most locals go directly for the Korean barbecue (80,000K), but we liked the kimchi stew (30,000K), served Korean-style with heaps of side dishes.
XayohSTEAK$$
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; %021-261777; www.inthira.com; mains 40,000-800,000K; h7am-10pm; aW)
One of the more popular steakhouses thanks to its hugely tasty Japanese Kobe steak: soaked in beer it's massaged daily for 30 days before it arrives impossibly tenderised on your plate. At US$100 it's not cheap but for a special occasion, it may be the best steak you ever taste (or share!).
Pizza Da Roby (PDR)ITALIAN$$
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; %020-59989926; mains 30,000-90,000K; h11am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm; W)
Paying homage to its location in Laos People's Democratic Republic (PDR), Pizza Da Roby turns out some of the best oven-baked pizzas in the country. Choose from a greatest-hits combination of toppings, pizza by the slice or a luscious lasagne, and follow up with a creamy caffeine kick from the homemade tiramisu.
OtafukuJAPANESE$$
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; %020-55518561; Th Phanompenh; mains 25,000-75,000K; h10am-9.30pm; aWv)
This Japanese restaurant supports the work of international NGO IV-Japan in educating the underprivileged children of Laos, so dining here is for a good cause. It's also good for your wallet, as this is some of the best-value Japanese food in Laos. Otafuku means 'happiness' and we are happy to recommend this leafy spot.
Suntara RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
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; %021-261165; Vientiane New World; mains 30,000-90,000K; h7am-midnight; aW)
Part of the expansive Inthira group, this was one of the first restaurants to open in the new Vientiane New World shophouse development on the Mekong River. Occupying a grand corner building, it offers a panoramic menu of world food, including traditional Lao dishes, popular international favourites and barbecued meats.
Bistrot 22FRENCH$$$
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; %020-55527286; Th Samsènethai; mains 65,000-250,000K; h11.30am-2pm & 6-10pm; aW)
Moved a little further out of the centre to a less bubbly locale, Bistrot 22 is nonetheless enjoying great reviews for Chef Philippe's lustrous cuisine, with dishes like pear salad, deep-fried apple and camembert salad, tender steaks and cauliflower soup. This intimate little restaurant is one of the gastronomic highlights of Vientiane.