Central Laos

Central Laos

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Why Go?

Ever since Tha Khaek opened its French-colonial shutters to travellers and the dramatic 7km-long underworld of Tham Kong Lor became a must-see fixture on itineraries, central Laos has been enticing visitors. Thanks to its honeycomb of caves and dragon-green jungle, activities on offer run from world-class rock climbing to trekking in Dong Phu Vieng NPA where you can sleep with the spirits in a Katang village. Cave exploration is an obvious headline attraction, but kayaking trips are also a big draw thanks to the myriad rivers that course like veins around and, often, through the karst mountains.

This part of the country claims the most forest cover and highest concentrations of wildlife, including some species that have disappeared elsewhere in Southeast Asia. With its rugged, intrepid travel, and stylish pockets of comfort in Savannakhet and Tha Khaek, central Laos makes for a great place to combine your inner Indiana Jones with a Bloody Mary.

When to Go

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ANov–Feb The best time to visit: temperatures are balmy, paddy fields green and roads passable.

AMar–May Leading up to the monsoon, fields are bone dry and the humidity ratchets up. Avoid the oven that is the south.

AJun–Nov Despite pockets of intense rain, sealed roads are still passable, the landscape vividly green and air cool.

Central Laos Highlights

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1 Tham Kong Lor Going underground to experience a boat trip through this incredible 7km-long limestone underworld.

2 Phu Hin Bun NPA Trekking amid gothic limestone karsts, subterranean caves and meandering rivers.

3 The Loop Riding and journeying on winding roads through flooded valleys, dense jungle and jagged mountain peaks.

4 Savannakhet Soaking up the old-world atmosphere of the colonial-era architecture.

5 Dong Phu Vieng NPA Staying in the remote villages and experiencing life in the spirit forests.

Climate

The Mekong River valley is always pretty warm and from March to May Savannakhet is positively steaming. It gets cooler as you head east towards the Annamite Chain and Lak Sao, and the villages along Rte 8B can be close to freezing during winter nights. The southwestern monsoon brings bucketloads of rain from June to October. Far-eastern areas around the Nakai-Nam Theun National Biodiversity Conservation Area (NBCA) also receive rain from the South China Sea that lasts longer, thus supplying enough water to maintain the thicker vegetation.

National Protected Areas

Central Laos is the best-preserved part of the country with six National Protected Areas (NPAs) accounting for vast swaths of the region. Access to Nakai-Nam Theun NBCA, Hin Namno NPA and Se Ban Nuan NPA is limited to those with decent Lao language skills and plenty of time and money, but others are easy to get to.

In Khammuan Province the labyrinth of limestone karsts, caves and rivers in Phu Hin Bun NPA is accessible either on your own or on a community-based or commercial trek. Similar treks lead to the sacred forests and animist villages of Dong Phu Vieng in Savannakhet Province.

8Getting There & Away

Central Laos is well connected to the rest of the country by road and there are regular bus services connecting the region with towns and cities of the north. Flight connections are more limited via Savannakhet, but Nakhon Phanom Airport in Thailand offers some affordable budget flights to Bangkok and beyond.

Rte 13 is sealed, and thanks to its vital status as a Chinese trade route, it's particularly well maintained. Other decent roads include Rte 9 from Savannakhet to the Vietnamese border at Lao Bao; Rte 8 between Rte 13 and the Vietnamese border at Nam Phao; Rte 12 between Tha Khaek and the Vietnamese border; and the road to Tham Kong Lor.

Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces

Bolikhamsai and Khammuan straddle the narrow, central 'waist' of the country. Physically the land climbs steadily from the Mekong River valley towards the north and east, eventually reaching the Annamite Chain bordering Vietnam, via an area of moderately high but often spectacular mountains. Laid-back Tha Khaek is the logical base.

Lowland Lao dominate the population and, along with smaller groups of tribal Thais, are the people you'll mostly meet. In remoter areas the Mon-Khmer-speaking Makong people (commonly known as Bru) make up more than 10% of the population of Khammuan.

Much of the region is relatively sparsely populated and six large tracts of forest have been declared National Protected Areas (NPAs). These areas have become a major battleground between those wishing to exploit Laos' hydroelectricity capacity and those wishing to preserve some of the most pristine wilderness areas in Asia. For now, the developers have the upper hand.

8Getting There & Away

These twin provinces are well connected to the rest of Laos with bus links and good surfaced roads connecting Tha Kheak with Vientiane to the north; Savannakhet and Pakse to the south; Thailand (via the Mekong to the west); and Vietnam to the east.

Paksan ປາກຊັນ

Pop 45,000 / icon-phonegif%054

Located at the confluence of the Nam San (San River) and the Mekong River, Paksan (ປາກຊັນ; Pakxan or Pakxanh) is the capital of Bolikhamsai Province. Although it's not the most exciting place in Laos, it has a few guesthouses and restaurants and is a possible stop if you're pedalling between Vientiane and Tha Khaek or Kong Lor. It's possible to cross into Thailand via the Mekong River, but hardly anyone travels this way.

4Sleeping & Eating

BK Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%054-212638; r 70,000-80,000K; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Set in a leafy garden dripping in frangipani flowers, this house-proud guesthouse has eight rooms, all immaculately clean with en suites and fresh linen, and the friendly owner speaks English. A great place if you get stuck here for the night.

Paksan HotelHOTEL$

(icon-phonegif%054-791444; Rte 13; r 120,000-200,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This huge Vietnamese-run, temple-roofed colossus has 32 well-sized rooms with TV, fridge, verandah and armoire. 'VIP' rooms are available, but only if your idea of VIP is faux-leather sofas.

Sokbounma HotelHOTEL$$

(icon-phonegif%054-790994; Rte 13; r incl breakfast 200,000-350,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Currently the smartest hotel in town, the Sokbounma offers 34 rooms with all the trimmings, including flat-screen TV and sparkling bathroom with rain shower.

Saynamsan RestaurantLAOTIAN$

(icon-phonegif%054-212608; mains 15,000-90,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm)

In town, at the northwestern end of the bridge crossing the Nam San, this friendly riverside restaurant is a great spot to catch the breeze on its terrace. The menu dishes up spicy squid soup, curry and láhp (spicy Lao-style salad of minced meat poultry or fish).

Sengphachan RestaurantLAOTIAN$

(Rte 13; mains 20,000-40,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm)

One of the longest-running restaurants in Paksan, Sengphachan is located on the main drag and does a steady trade in passing traffic on Rte 13. Dishes include grilled meats, steaming soups and freshly prepared stir-fried vegies.

8Information

There's a Lao Development Bank just east of the market and a BCEL ATM on Rte 13 about 200m east of the Paksan Hotel.

8Getting There & Away

Local buses leave from outside Paksan's Talat Sao (Main Market) on Rte 13 for Vientiane (30,000K, three hours, 143km) between 6am and 4.30pm, with most departures in the morning. Sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) also leave frequently from the market, or just hail anything going west.

If you're heading to Vietnam, sŏrngtăaou depart for Lak Sao (60,000K, five to six hours, 189km) at 5am, 5.30am and 6.30am, or whenever they are full.

All buses heading south from Vientiane pass through Paksan about two hours after they leave the capital: just wait outside Talat Sao.

GETTING TO THAILAND: PAKSAN TO BEUNG KAN

Getting to the border Few travellers use the Paksan (Laos)/Beung Kan (Thailand) border crossing (8am to noon and 1.30 to 4.30pm) via the Mekong River. The boat (60B, 20 minutes) leaves when eight people show up or you can charter it (500B).

At the border If you turn up at the Lao immigration office, they should process the paperwork without too much fuss, though it is very important to note that Lao visas are not available on arrival.

Moving on In Thailand buses leave Beung Kan for Udon Thani (245B, four hours), where there are onward connections to Bangkok via budget airlines or long-distance bus.

Pak Kading

East from Vientiane along Rte 13 is the sleepy yet picturesque village of Pak Kading, sitting just upstream from the junction of the Mekong River and the Nam Kading (Kading River), one of the most pristine rivers in Laos (for now, at least). Flowing through a forested valley surrounded by high hills and menacing-looking limestone formations, this broad, turquoise-tinted river winds its way into the Nam Kading NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດນໍ້າກະດິງ ).

The Nam Kading (Kading River) is undoubtedly the best way into the wilderness that is Nam Kading NPA, where confirmed animal rarities include the elephant, giant muntjac, pygmy slow loris, François' langur, douc langur, gibbon, dhole, Asiatic black bear, tiger and many bird species. As usual in Laos, it is very unlikely that you will actually see any of these. Note that at the time of writing it was very difficult to access the NPA, as the regional government are restricting boat access via the river.

Whether the nearby waterfall is in full flow or dried up, Pak Kading is a good place to stop for a meal at the Bounxou Restaurant (icon-phonegif%055-320046; Rte 13; mains 15,000-45,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm), where the fish dishes are fam­ous with Lao itinerants passing this way.

As a main highway town, there are buses aplenty passing through Pak Kading on their way to Vientiane (three to four hours, 187km), Tha Khaek (three hours) or points east.

Ban Khoun Kham (Ban Na Hin)

Pop 3000 / icon-phonegif%054

The former role of Ban Khoun Kham (also known as Ban Na Hin) as a base from which to visit the extraordinary Tham Kong Lor has been seriously undercut by Ban Kong Lor, which has recently been acquitting itself to cater for tourists headed to the nearby cave, and as such there's a little tumbleweed blowing through town. However, there is an attractive waterfall near town and some great viewpoints across the jagged karst landscape if you do decide to stay here.

1Sights

Tat NamsanamWATERFALL

(ຕາດນ້ຳສະນາມ )

The main local attraction is the impressive twin-cataract of Tat Namsanam, 3km north of town, although in the dry season, it's, well, dry. The falls are in a striking location surrounded by karst and the upper tier is quite high.

Unfortunately, the path and signs leading to the falls aren't entirely clear, and more than one foreign visitor has got lost here. Proceed with caution, or better yet, hire a guide through the excellent Tourist Information Centre, just south of the Tat Namsanam entrance, which runs community-based treks from here into the Phu Hin Bun NPA.

Stone Forest ViewpointVIEWPOINT

As you approach Ban Khoun Kham from Rte 13, there is a sala (open-sided shelter) viewpoint between Km 32 and Km 33. Do not, whatever you do, miss the spectacularly dramatic scenery below; somewhere between a dream and a nightmare, the landscape rears raggedly with black rock formations.

Tha Bak Bomb BoatsHISTORIC SITE

About 18km east of Ban Khoun Kham, Tha Bak sits near the confluence of the Nam Kading and Nam Theun. The reason to stop here is to either take photos of the river or get out on the incredible bomb boats, which are made out of huge missile-shaped drop tanks that carried fuel for jets operating overhead during the war. If you fancy a spin on one, just head down to the riverbank at the eastern end of the bridge and negotiate a price.

4Sleeping

Sanhak GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%020-22334691; sanhak.guesthouse@gmail.com; dm 25,000K; r 50,000-80,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

One of the most popular guesthouses in Ban Khoun Kham thanks to advertising in the motorbike-rental shops along Tha Khaek, this is a friendly backstreet place to stay. Cheap-as-chips dorms and comfortable rooms with hot water are available. There's also a small restaurant here.

Inthapaya GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%020-22336534; r with fan/air-con 60,000/90,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Fresh-smelling powder-blue rooms with tiled floors, clean en suites and optional fan or air-con. There's also a neat little courtyard cafe. It's northeast of the main street. The owner speaks excellent English.

icon-top-choiceoSainamhai ResortRESORT$$

(icon-phonegif%020-22331683; www.sainamhairesort.com; r 150,000-240,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

By far the dreamiest and most cosy accommodation in town – except it's not in town. Thankfully Sainamhai sits by the Nam Hai (Hai River) a little out of the village. There's a handsome longhouse restaurant, a fertile garden and well-maintained rattan-walled cabanas with private balconies, en suites and clean linen. Add to this warm service and cool air-con. Convinced? We are.

It's 3km east of Rte 8 via a turn-off a few kilometres down the road that leads to Tham Kong Lor. Staff will pick you up for free at the sŏrngtăaou station if you call ahead.

8Information

Tourist Information Centre (icon-phonegif%020-55598412; Rte 8; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm) Just south of the Tat Namsanam entrance, this efficiently run centre operates community-based treks from here into the Phu Hin Bun NPA. Ask to speak to Thoum.

8Getting There & Away

There are two morning departures from Tha Khaek to Ban Khoun Kham (50,000K, three hours, 143km) at 8am and 9am. Alternatively, from Tha Khaek or Vientiane, simply hop on any north- or southbound bus and get off at Vieng Kham (also known as Thang Beng), at the junction of Rtes 13 and 8, and continue by sŏrngtăaou (25,000K, one hour, 7am to 7pm) to Ban Khoun Kham. It's easier to take a Vientiane–Lak Sao bus and ask to get off in Ban Khoun Kham (75,000K).

Later in the day you'll need to take any of the semi-regular sŏrngtăaou to Vieng Kham (30,000K, 7am to 5pm) or, if you're bound for the Vietnam border, Lak Sao (25,000K, 7am to 5pm) and change there. Both are about one hour from Ban Khoun Kham. To Tham Kong Lor, sŏrngtăaou leave at 10am, 12.30pm and 3pm (25,000K, one hour).

Tham Kong Lor ຖ້ຳລອດກອງລໍ

Tham Kong Lor (ຖ້ຳລອດກອງລໍ) is one of central Laos', if not the country's, most vivid highlights. A journey into this preternatural underworld is like a voyage into the afterworld itself, with a 7.5km river passing through the cathedral-high limestone cave.

Ban Kong Lor (Kong Lor Village) is the most convenient base for visiting the cave and has seen an explosion of guesthouses and small resorts in the last few years.

2Activities

icon-top-choiceoTham Kong LorCAVING, BOATING

(cave entrance 5000K, parking fee 5000K, boat trip 1/2/3 persons 110,000/120,000/130,000K)

A boat trip through the other-worldly Tham Kong Lor is an absolute must. Situated in the 1580-sq-km wilderness of Phu Hin Bun NPA, the 7.5km river cave runs beneath an immense limestone mountain. Your imagination will be in overdrive as the boat takes you further into the bat-black darkness and the fear dial will ratchet up as if on some natural Gothic ghost ride. The experience is unforgettable.

A section of Kong Lor has now been atmospherically lit, allowing you a greater glimpse of this epic spectacle; your longtail docks in a rocky inlet to allow you to explore a stalactite wood of haunting pillars and sprouting stalagmites like an abandoned Star Trek set.

Boat trips through Tham Kong Lor take up to an hour each way, and in dry season when the river is low, you'll have to get out while the boatman and point man haul the wooden craft up rapids. At the other end of the cave, a brief five minutes upstream takes you to a refreshment stop. Catch your breath and then head back in for more adrenaline-fuelled excitement.

Life jackets are provided. Be sure to bring a torch (flashlight) as the ones for rent are inadequate, and wear rubber sandals; the gravel in the riverbed is sharp and it's often necessary to disembark and wade at several shallow points.

Tham Nam NoneCAVING

(per person 120,000K)

Tham Kong Lor is not the only major cave in the area. Tham Nam None is a 'new' cave that has been more recently discovered, but not yet fully explored. At 15km, it is one of the longest river caves in Laos, and it's possible to trek into the cave in the dry season. Don't venture into this cave alone; contact Spring River Resort to set up a trip and take plenty of torches (flashlights) and batteries.

TREKKING IN CENTRAL LAOS

Underrated central Laos is a great place to combine a cultural and environmental experience. Most treks in central Laos are run by either the state-run eco-guide units in Tha Khaek and Savannakhet or the private company Green Discovery, and range in cost from approximately US$40 to US$500 per person (prices drop significantly the greater the number of people in the group). Listed below are some particularly recommended trekking destinations in the region:

Phu Hin Bun NPA From Tha Khaek. For beauty, it's hard to beat these trekking and boating trips through the monolithic limestone karsts. Two- and three-day options are available at Tha Khaek's Tourist Information Centre, and four-day trips with Green Discovery.

Tham Lot Se Bang Fai/Hin Namno NPA From Tha Khaek. Although trekking here is still in its infancy, and mostly revolves around the Nam Lot cave, it is also possible to combine a homestay with walks in the spectacular Hin Namno NPA. Enquire at Green Discovery; the Tha Khaek Tourist Information Centre is not currently offering trips here.

Dong Natad From Savannakhet. One- and two-day trips to the provincial protected area near Savannakhet are cheap and popular for their homestays and explanations of how villagers use the sacred forest to exist. Contact Savannakhet's eco-guide unit ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-214203; Th Latsaphanith; icon-hoursgifh8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri; icon-wifigifW) for details.

Dong Phu Vieng NPA From Savannakhet. This three-day trek (with a fair bit of road time at either end) takes you to two Katang villages where animist beliefs come with a host of taboos. It's a real head-bending cultural experience, but the transport makes prices a bit steep. Organised by Savannakhet's eco-guide unit.

TTours

Khammuan Province's Tourist Information Centre offers day trips to Tham Kong Lor (per person for a group of one/two/five 1,500,000/850,000/550,000K); speak to the ever-proficient Mr Somkiad. Green Discovery also runs one-day trips to Tham Kong Lor from US$70 per person and overnight trips from US$155 per person.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kong Lor Eco LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%030-9062772; Ban Kong Lor; r 50,000K; icon-wifigifW)

Kong Lor Eco Lodge has 12 spartan but clean rooms set back from the road. The small restaurant here is one of the most popular in town and draws a steady crowd of travellers each night.

HomestayHOMESTAY$

(Ban Kong Lor; per person incl dinner & breakfast 50,000K)

Say the word 'homestay' and you'll be hooked up with a family somewhere in the village. Homestay accommodation is also available at the opposite end of the cave, in Ban Na Tan and the prettier Ban Phon Kham, but you'll get charged a second time when you return through the cave.

Both villages are within walking distance of the drink stalls where the boats terminate; Ban Na Tan is a 2km walk along the left fork, and Ban Phon Kham is the second village you'll come to after about 1km along the right fork. The drink vendors are more than happy to point you in the right direction.

Chantha HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%020-22100002; Ban Kong Lor; dm 40,000K, r 70,000-150,000K; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This Swiss-style accommodation on the main road to Kong Lor, at the start of the village, has 15 cool, well-kept rooms plus a dorm. The owners are friendly and, best of all, there are magnificent views of the cliffs. There's also a DVD lounge, a small cafe and bicycles for rent.

icon-top-choiceoSpring River ResortBUNGALOW$$

(icon-phonegif%020-59636111; www.springriverresort.com; Ban Tiou; bungalows US$15-50, tr US$40-50; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Formerly Sala Kong Lor, these stilted bungalows range from basic to superior and sit by the beautiful Nam Hin Bun. En suite triple rooms include mozzie nets and private balconies to enjoy the lush river view, and breakfast is included with the more expensive room. There's a clear-water creek nearby to cool off in.

Kong Lo View Hotel & ResortBUNGALOW$$

(icon-phonegif%030-9143544; www.kongloview.com; d/tw/VIP US$35/$50/$150, all incl breakfast; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Boasting the closest location to Tham Kong Lor, this attractive cluster of traditional wooden bungalows features a range of options including a vast VIP room. The restaurant features a terrace with views to the karst.

Auberges Sala HinbounGUESTHOUSE$$

(icon-phonegif%041-212445; www.salalao.com; r incl breakfast US$23-29; icon-wifigifW)

On the banks of the Nam Hin Bun, Auberges Sala Hinboun has 12 homely, guacamole-green wood cabanas on stilts. Rooms have gypsy-chic curtains, rattan floors, balconies and comfy beds. The ones facing the river are the largest, but the smaller ones are decent too. The restaurant has a menu of fried fish, roast chicken and Lao salad.

Mithuna RestaurantLAOTIAN$

(Ban Kong Lor; mains 20,000-40,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-8pm)

Close to the entrance to Tham Kong Lor, this semi-alfresco, fan-cooled restaurant serves up noodles, fried rice and pork láhp, as well as Western breakfasts. It's good for a refuel before or after a trip into the depths of the cave.

8Getting There & Away

The 50km road from Ban Khoun Kham to Ban Kong Lor winds through a beautiful valley of rice fields, hemmed in on either side by towering karst cliffs. It's an easy one-hour motorbike or sŏrngtăaou ride. From Ban Kong Lor, sŏrngtăaou to Ban Khoun Kham (25,000K) depart at 6.30am, 8am and 11am. There's also now a direct daily bus between Vientiane and Ban Kong Lor (80,000K, seven hours), which departs from Kong Lor Eco Lodge at 7am or from the Southern Bus Station in the capital at 10am.

2Motorcycle Tour
The Loop

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Start Tha Khaek

End Tha Khaek

Duration three days

'The Loop', an off-the-beaten-track circuit through some of the more remote parts of Khammuan and Bolikhamsai Provinces, has achieved mythic status with intrepid travellers over the last couple of years. It's possible to make the trip by bicycle, but it's best done on a motorbike. Thankfully, there are now several companies in 1Tha Khaek renting out decent dirt bikes and smaller scooters. Give yourself at least three days to include Tham Kong Lor and make sure you spend a day practicing your riding skills if you are a relative novice. Visiting the caves around Tha Khaek as a gentle day trip is a good warm-up to tackling the Loop. Fuel is available in most villages along the way.

Begin in Tha Khaek. It's Tourist Information Centre can provide advice on the circuit. It's also a good idea to sit down with a cold Beerlao and the ever-expanding logbook at Thakhek Travel Lodge before you head off.

Once you've got your wheels, and assuming you have already spent one day heading east on Rte 12 from Tha Khaek, visiting the caves and swimming spots on the way, then set out early enough to allow plenty of stops along the way. The 20km stretch north of 2Mahaxai Mai, about 40km from Tha Khaek, has a few accommodation options if you're running late, but they are all pretty forgettable places aimed at travelling dam workers. Just north of Km 55 is the Rte 12 turn-off to Vietnam and the expansive Nam Theun 2 Main Camp, across from which is Phothavong Guest House, one of the better places to stay along this stretch of the Loop. However, we would recommend continuing to Ban Tha Lang for the night.

Continuing past Gnommalath, an additional 5km north of the Rte 12 intersection, where there's petrol and basic food, you'll reach Nam Theun 2 Power Station. This is also the location of the educational Nam Theun 2 Visitors Centre, set in a traditional Luang Prabang–style house, which looks a touch out of place in the middle of nowhere. It has a very well-organised display on village relocations, the construction of the dam and the science behind hydropower, but it's obviously coming from a pro-power point of view and not an environmentalist angle. At the top of the hill the road splits at a busy village called Ban Oudomsouk; keep straight for 3km to 3Nakai, where fuel is available.

The next 23km is a disturbing corridor of pristine jungle on your left and the environmental disaster zone created by the flooding of the Nam Theun 2 dam on the right. You'll also start to see successive bâan jat sàn, tidy villages created for those displaced by the flooding. Just before the road crosses the Nam Theun (Theun River) via a new bridge, you'll arrive in tiny 4Ban Tha Lang, where the Phosy Tha Lang Guesthouse offers respite in clean, basic turquoise cabanas with fresh sheets, en suites and balconies with hammocks. The view is pretty good, with the ghostly stumps of trees poking out of the recently flooded reservoir. More lively these days is Sabaidee Guesthouse, the most popular place on the Loop thanks to the convivial owner and inviting restaurant. Rooms are set in bungalows in a spacious garden and firepits are lit nightly during the peak season. From Mahaxai Mai to Ban Tha Lang takes about two hours.

Continuing over the bridge at Ban Tha Long it's about 50km to Lak Sao. This stretch is stunning as you drive through the corridor between the Nakai-Nam Theun NBCA and Phu Hin Bun NPA. But drive carefully; although the road is now surfaced, there are lots of tight switchbacks. Take it slowly and drink up the view as you weave through an other-worldly flooded valley, with its eternity of oddly angled dead trees sticking out of the water and not a soul in sight. After 17km keep straight at the junction (the left fork will take you to the Nam Theun 2 dam site). In the dry season this stretch takes between one and two hours, depending on the number of photo stops you take.

When you finally hit the frontier-feel town of 5Lak Sao, there is plenty of accommodation and food, and it's also a good place if you need bike repairs. We recommend a pit stop for lunch and continuing on to Ban Khoun Kham (Ban Na Hin) or Tham Kong Lor for the overnight. Riding the 56km of smooth Rte 8 between Lak Sao and Ban Khoun Kham is like stepping into a video game: the road runs between walls of impregnable karst on one side, into winding hills of deep forest, and crosses the wide Nam Theun at 6Tha Bak, where it's worth stopping for a look at the bomb boats.

7Ban Khoun Kham has a petrol station and heaps of accommodation and is one base for trips into 8Tham Kong Lor. However, over the last few years, accommodation has now sprung up in Kong Lor village itself and is more convenient for seeing the cave first thing in the morning. From Ban Khoun Kham, it's about 145km back to Tha Khaek if you want to get to there quickly.

Lak Sao ຫລັກຊາວ

Pop 33,000 / icon-phonegif%054

Essentially a dusty two-street affair in the eastern reaches of Bolikhamsai Province, Lak Sao (ຫລັກຊາວ) is humming with trucks passing through to Vietnam (only 36km away), and has made its name as a logging town. It's surrounded by beautiful sawtoothed cliffs that, come dusk, are evocatively etched a burnt charcoal.

There's plenty of uninspiring guesthouses, a maze of a market, 24-hour ATMs, plus a couple of places to eat. Not the prettiest place thanks to the eternal screen of dust that hangs in the air, but it's a useful pit stop to stock up on cash, fuel up and eat a reliable Lao lunch if you're on 'the Loop'.

4Sleeping & Eating

Phoutthavong Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%054-341074; Rte 1E; r 80,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Sitting back from busy Rte 8, this pleasant guesthouse has large rooms with mahogany beds and furniture, basic en suite and TV. A talking mynah bird will keep you company.

Souriya HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%054-341111; Rte 1E; r 50,000-80,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

All rooms here have fan or air-con, and although some are smaller than others, they are fresh with firm beds and en suite with very hot water. There is also cable TV and motorbike parking.

Only One RestaurantLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%054-341034; Rte 1E; mains 20,000-60,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm)

Although it's no longer quite the 'only one' in town, it remains one of the best. The cavernous restaurant has a great terrace out back which looks on to the karsts and makes a good place to eat your láhp, barbecued pork, stir-fries and fried morning glory (water spinach).

8Information

Lao Development Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 1E) Located near the market, this bank changes Thai baht, US dollars, UK pounds and Vietnamese dong.

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Rtes 8 & 1E)

8Getting There & Away

Buses leave from east of the market for Vientiane (85,000K, seven to eight hours, 334km) daily at 5.30am, 6.30am, 8am and 8pm. These buses stop at Vieng Kham (Thang Beng; 35,000K, two hours, 100km), where you can change for regular buses heading south, or get off at Paksan (50,000K, five to six hours, 189km). Other buses and sŏrngtăaou head along Rte 8 to Vieng Kham/Thang Beng (between 8am and 5pm) and one bus goes to Tha Khaek (60,000K, five to six hours, 202km) at 7.30am.

Tha Khaek ທ່າແຂກ

Pop 80,000 / icon-phonegif%051

This ex-Indochinese trading post is a delightful melange of crumbling French villas and warped Chinese merchant's shopfronts, with an easy riverside charm which, despite the new bridge over to nearby Thailand, shows few signs of change. An evocative place to stop for a day and night, you begin the Loop from here, and can also use Tha Khaek (ທ່າແຂກ) as a base from which to make organised day trips to Tham Kong Lor. There are also loads of caves, some with swimmable lagoons, nearby that can be accessed by scooter or tuk-tuk.

While you shouldn't expect Luang Prabang levels of sophistication from Tha Khaek, you will find a historically appealing old town and slice of authentic Lao life. The epicentre (if you can call it that) of the old town is the modest Fountain Sq at the western end of Th Kuvoravong near the river.

History

Tha Khaek traces its present-day roots to French-colonial construction in 1911 and 1912. Evidence of this period can be found in the slowly decaying buildings around Fountain Sq. The town served as a port, border post and administrative centre during the French period.

1Sights

Phu Hin Bun NPANATIONAL PARK

(ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດພູຫີນປູນ )

Phu Hin Bun NPA is a huge (1580 sq km) wilderness area of turquoise streams, monsoon forests and striking karst topography across central Khammuan. It was made a protected area in 1993 and it's no overstatement to say this is some of the most breathtaking country in the region.

Passing through on foot or by boat, it's hard not to feel awestruck by the very scale of the limestone cliffs that rise almost vertically for hundreds of metres into the sky. Although much of the NPA is inaccessible by road, local people have reduced the numbers of key forest-dependent species through hunting and logging. Despite this, the area remains home to the endangered douc langur, François' langur and several other primate species, as well as elephants, tigers and a variety of rare species of deer.

A trip out to Tham Kong Lor will give you a taste of what the NPA has to offer, but there are two more immersive ways to go deeper into this area of almost mythical gothic peaks and snaking streams.

Khammuan Province runs five different community-based treks of varying lengths. From Tha Khaek, the popular two-day trip (1,700,000K for one person, 950,000K each for two, 650,000K for five or more) into the Phu Hin Bun NPA is especially good. The route includes plenty of karst scenery, a walk through Tham Pa Chan and overnight accommodation in an ethnic village. Bookings can be made through the Tourist Information Centre in Tha Khaek.

Green Discovery offers similar treks including a very tempting two-day kayaking and cycling trip between spectacularly sheer cliffs, as the Nam Hin Bun (Hin Bun River) follows a large anticlockwise arc towards the Mekong.

Tham Pa SeuamCAVE

(ຖ້ຳປາເຊືອມ )

The recently discovered river cave of Tham Pa Seuam runs for 3km. A much smaller version of Tham Kong Lor, it features include impressive stalactites and stalagmites and is conveniently only 15km from Tha Khaek. A day trip to multiple caves, including Tham Pa Seuam, with the Tourist Information Centre costs from 350,000K per person and includes a 400m kayak paddle into the main chamber.

2Activities

Most of the activities take place in the karst countryside around Tha Khaek, including clambering the karst at Green Climbers Home or exploring the many caves that pepper the jagged mountains.

When it comes to Tha Khaek town, other than wandering the streets and soaking up the atmosphere, there's not a lot to keep you occupied. If you're looking for something (slightly) more active, then head to Namfon Petang Field ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-55619331; icon-hoursgifh4-10.30pm) for a game of boule and a Beerlao.

Green Climbers HomeCLIMBING

(icon-phonegif%020-56105622; www.greenclimbershome.com; Ban Kouanphavang; courses per person 140,000-500,000K, depending on duration & size of group; icon-hoursgifhOct-May)

This efficiently run training school set in a valley in soaring karst country 18km from Tha Khaek is hugely popular and often booked up thanks to its cosy cabanas, great food and excellent courses. It also boasts one of the easiest overhangs in the world to learn on and has beginner-, intermediate- and expert-level climbs, with more than 250 routes from class 4 to 8B.

Green DiscoveryADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-251390; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Inthira Hotel, Th Chao Annou; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

Green Discovery is the country's most experienced ecotourism outfit and runs a number of interesting trips around central Laos. A range of treks and kayaking excursions in the lush Phu Hin Bun NPA are available, including Tham Kong Lor (from US$70 for a day trip to US$155 for an overnight trip). Also arranges cycling and climbing.

TTours

The Tourist Information Centre runs tours in the area. Trek prices vary depending on group size, so it's worth calling reliable Mr Somkiad who runs the centre to coordinate with other travellers. As an example, a two-day trek in the Phu Hin Bun NPA for a group of four will cost a reasonable 650,000K per person. These treks typically involve a homestay. Also ask about day trips to multiple caves, including Tham Pa Seuam.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoThakhek Travel LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-212931; thahkhektravellodge@gmail.com; Rte 13; dm 30,000K, r 60,000-130,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

It might be an inconvenient five minutes out of town by tuk-tuk, but this place has a great vibe thanks to its nightly garden fire pit, drawing travellers together. Rooms vary from basic fan options to expansive air-con bungalows, and a cafe serves láhp, salads and juices. Check out the logbook for updated news from the Loop.

Mekong HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-250777; mekonghotel@yahoo.com; Th Setthathirat; r 100,000-250,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Thanks to a bit of tender, loving care, this blue, Soviet-inspired monolith is somewhat improved, with house-proud, decent rooms that have cable TV, air-con and fresh en suites. There's also a Mekong-facing restaurant.

Sooksomboon HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-212225; Th Setthathirat; r 100,000-150,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Set in a colonial-era police station right on the Mekong, the rooms here are clean and have high ceilings, scrolled mahogany bedsteads, TV and en suite. Bag a room in this atmospheric main building, as the rooms in the motel-like annexe are bland with a capital B.

icon-top-choiceoInthira HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-251237; www.inthirahotel.com; Th Chao Anou; r incl breakfast US$29-49; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Set in an old French villa with a pretty facade, Inthira offers the most romantic, stylish digs in town. Its restaurant fronts the old fountain, and its chic wine-hued rooms, with exposed-brick walls, rain showers, cable TV, dark wood furniture, air-con and safety deposit boxes, are a delight for weary travellers. The best rooms face the street and have balconies.

Xayluedy HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-214299; Th Vientiane; r 130,000-250,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This smart new hotel in the middle of town has a good range of clean rooms with wall-mounted TVs and hot-water rain showers. All rooms come with air-con and there are even some VIP options to satisfy your inner celebrity.

Hotel RiveriaHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-250000; www.hotelrivierathakhek.com; Th Setthathirat; r 330,000-960,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Hotel Riveria has terrific views of Thailand on one side and even more dramatic vistas of the jagged karsts on the other. But this is very much a business person's choice. Large rooms have king-sized beds, TV, fridge, bath and international-style furniture. Downstairs, there's a decent restaurant with a generous buffet breakfast and egg station. Professional but somewhat soulless.

5Eating

La Parisian CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-96244999; Th Kuvoravong; mains 10,000-35,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Our French friends will have to excuse the spelling, but this is a delightful little cafe opposite the post office. Mains are limited to salads and sandwiches, but the real draw is the delectable dessert, which includes elaborate fruit concoctions and designer French toast.

Sabaidee RestaurantLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirat; mains 20,000-40,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-midnight; icon-wifigifW)

Catching whatever breeze is going, this joint sits on the riverfront and serves rice dishes, láhp variations, soup and some heaped portions of international favourites like fish and chips. Nice place for a sundowner and draws a steady crowd of travellers trading tales from the Loop.

Grilled Meat RestaurantsLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirat; mains 10,000-20,000K; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm)

There are several outdoor grilled-meat restaurants specialising in duck (Ms Noy, Ms Kay and Ms Mo) on the waterfront strip directly south of the night market.

Local Food PlaceLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath; mains 10,000-20,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm)

Head to this busy local food place alongside the river if you fancy tasty Lao favourites such as pîng kai (grilled chicken) and sticky rice for next to no money. There are also plenty of similar stalls lining the nearby Fountain Sq promenade.

DD Bistro & CafeINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%051-212355; Fountain Sq; mains 20,000-80,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This new glass-fronted cafe overlooking Fountain Sq offers a fusion menu of Lao, Thai and international dishes in a cool atmosphere, both figuratively and literally, thanks to the powerful air-con. Twinings teas, coffees with a kick and fresh juices are also available.

icon-top-choiceoKhop Chai DeuFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Inthira Hotel, Th Chao Anou; mains 30,000-90,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-veggifv)

Classy and low-lit, this fine restaurant is as sophisticated as sleepy Tha Khaek gets. Based in a pretty French colonial-era building, the open-range kitchen, visible but behind glass, dishes up tasty Lao salad, burgers, substantial tenderised steak and decent cocktails from the sleek glass bar. You can eat on the street if it's cool out.

Smile Barge RestaurantLAOTIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirat; meals 25,000-100,000K; icon-hoursgifhnoon-11.30pm; icon-wifigifW)

Riverside Smile is atmospheric with lanterns hung from the walls, and decked verandahs under the shade of trees where you can coolly work your way through a menu of steak, soup, salad, fried fish and vegie dishes. Aptly enough, it also includes a floating barge on the river to complement the sprawling restaurant on land.

8Information

Internet Access

There are a couple of places on Th Chao Anou, north of Fountain Sq, that offer decent internet connections. They are open approximately 10am to 10pm and charge 6000K per hour.

Wangwang Internet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fountain Sq; per hr 7000K; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-9.30pm) Offers internet on a few laptops, as well as scooter rental ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-56978535; Fountain Sq; per day 50,000-220,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm).

Medical Services

Tha Khaek Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Chao Anou & Th Champasak) Fine for minor ailments. Seek out English-speaking Dr Bounthavi.

Money

BCEL ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Vientiane) Changes major currencies and travellers cheques, and offers cash advances on debit or credit card.

Lao Development Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Vientiane) Cash exchange only, plus an ATM.

Police

Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Kuvoravong & Th Unkham)

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%250610; Fountain Sq) The police here know how to write insurance reports, if you can track down an officer.

Post

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Kuvoravong) Offers expensive international phone calls.

Tourist Information

Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-55711797, 030-5300503; www.khammouanetourism.com; Th Vientiane; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm) This excellent tourist office offers exciting one- and two-day treks in Phu Hin Boun NPA, including a homestay in a local village. There are also treks to the waterfall by Ban Khoun Kham and Tham Kong Lor (800,000K). Offers advice on journeying the Loop as well.

GETTING TO VIETNAM: THA KHAEK TO DONG HOI

Getting to the border Despite the fact that Rte 12 is now fully paved, for falang (Westerners) the Na Phao (Laos)/Cha Lo (Vietnam) border crossing (7am to 4pm) remains one of the least used and most inconvenient of all Laos' borders. This is partly because transport on both sides is slow and infrequent, though there's a daily sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) from Tha Khaek (50,000K, 3½ to four hours, 142km) at 8am bound for Lang Khang, 18km short of the border. If you're determined to cross here, take the early departure as there's no accommodation in the area and you'll almost certainly have to wait a while for transport all the way to the border.

At the border The Lao border offers 30-day tourist visas on arrival. Some nationalities require a Vietnam visa in advance, so check with the Vietnamese consulate ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212418; Th Sisavangvong, Savannakhet) in Savannakhet. Most regional visitors and Scandinavian, British, French, German, Italian and Spanish visitors do not need a visa.

Moving on On the Vietnam side, the nearest sizeable city is Dong Hoi. A bus does run directly between Tha Khaek and Dong Hoi (90,000K, 10 to 14 hours), leaving Tha Khaek at 7pm on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, making this the most logical way to cross this border.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Tha Khaek's bus station (Rte 13) is about 3.5km from the town centre and has a sizeable market and basic guesthouses to complement the regular services going north and south. Buses for Vientiane (60,000K, six hours, 332km) depart at 4am, 5.30am, 7am, 8.30am and 9am, as well as a VIP service at 9.15am (80,000K) and a sleeper VIP at 1am (90,000K). From 9am to midnight, buses stop en route from Pakse and Savannakhet every hour or so. Any bus going north stops at Vieng Kham (Thang Beng; 30,000K, 1½ hours, 102km), Pak Kading (40,000K, three hours, 149km) or Paksan (50,000K, four hours, 193km).

Heading south, buses for Savannakhet (30,000K, two to three hours, 125km) depart every half-hour, and there's an air-con departure for Pakse (70,000K, six to seven hours, 368km) at 9am and regular local buses every hour during the day (60,000K). There are two daily departures to Attapeu (90,000K, about 10 hours) at 3.30pm and 11pm. Buses originating in Vientiane leave at around 5.30pm for Don Khong (150,000K, about 15 hours, 452km) and around 5.30pm for Non Nok Khiene (90,000K, about 16 hours, 482km), on the Cambodian border. They stop at Tha Khaek between 5pm and 6pm, but you'd need to be in a hurry.

If you're heading to Vietnam, a bus for Hué (120,000K) leaves every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 8pm. There are also departures for Danang (120,000K) at 8pm every Monday and Friday; for Dong Hoi (90,000K, 10 to 14 hours) at 7am on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday; and for Hanoi (160,000K) at 8pm on Tuesday and Saturday.

Sŏrngtăaou

Sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) regularly depart when full from Talat Phetmany ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Kuvoravong) to Mahaxai Mai (20,000K, one hour, 50km). A direct service goes to Ban Kong Lor (60,000K, four hours) at 7.30am.

Talat Lak Sǎam (Sook Som Boon Bus Terminal; GOOGLE MAP ) serves buses into the Khammuan Province interior. There's a daily departure at 8am for Lang Khang (40,000K), and one at 8pm for Na Phao (60,000K, 3½ hours, 142km), 18km short of the Vietnam border.

GETTING TO THAILAND: THA KHAEK TO NAKHON PHANOM

Getting to the border Crossing the Mekong at the Tha Khaek (Laos)/Nakhon Phanom (Thailand) border is now only possible for locals. Travellers can catch an international bus (18,000K/70B, around 1½ hour) to Nakhon Phanom via the Friendship Bridge from the main bus station in Tha Khaek. Buses run every 30 minutes from 7am to 4.30pm. If crossing the border after 4pm you'll have to pay an overtime fee.

At the border In Tha Khaek, Lao immigration issues 30-day tourist visas on arrival and there's a BCEL money exchange service and 24-hour ATM at the immigration office. In Thailand, travellers are given visa-free, 30-day entry.

Moving on Once in Nakhon Phanom, buses depart for Udon Thani (regular) and Bangkok (at 7.30am and from 7pm to 8pm). Faster and almost as cheap are the budget flights to Bangkok offered by Air Asia and Nok Air with several flights per day.

8Getting Around

It should cost about 20,000K to hire a jumbo (motorised three-wheeled taxi) to the bus terminal, though you'll need to negotiate. From the bus terminal, jumbos don't budge unless they're full or you're willing to fork out 30,000K or more to charter the entire vehicle. Rides around town can cost around 15,000K per person.

Car & Motorcycle

A handful of places around town offer motorbike hire.

Mad Monkey Motorbike ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-59939909; www.madmonkey-thakek.com; Fountain Sq; per day scooters 60,000-100,000K, 250cc dirt bikes 250,000K; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm) The best place to hire a tough, reliable motocross bike to tackle the Loop and other adventures. Mad Monkey has a couple of Honda 250cc dirt bikes and some perky 150cc Kawasaki Fox dirt bikes, plus the usual automatic and semi-automatic scooters. The owners are also a great source of information on the Loop.

Wangwang Offers the biggest range of motorbikes in town, including dirt bikes, scooters and more.

Mr Ku's Motorbike Rental Located at Thakhek Travel Lodge. Mr Ku has reliable scooters for tackling the Loop and getting around town or to the closer caves.

Around Tha Khaek

1Sights

North & South of Tha Khaek

Pha That SikhottabongBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ພະທາດສີໂຄດຕະບອງ )

About 6km south of town is the much-venerated Pha That Sikhottabong, which stands in the grounds of a 19th-century monastery of the same name. Considered one of the most important tâht (stupa) in Laos, Sikhottabong was first renovated by King Setthathirat in the 16th century, when it assumed its current general form.

Tham Pa FaCAVE

(Buddha Cave; 5000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-noon & 1-4pm)

When Mr Bun Nong used a vine to scramble up a sheer 200m-high cliff in 2004, he discovered a narrow cave mouth and was greeted by 229 bronze Buddha images. The Buddhas, ranging from 15cm to about 1m tall, were sitting as they had been for centuries facing the entrance of a cave of impressive limestone formations.

No photographs are allowed inside the cave, but it is an atmospheric spot tended by local ascetics. It's 14km from Tha Khaek; a tuk-tuk costs 100,000K.

Khoun Kong LengLAKE

(ຂຸນກອງແລງ 5000K)

Nestled amid the limestone karsts of the Phu Hin Bun NPA is the stunningly beautiful Evening Gong Lake. The luminescent green waters spring from a subterranean river that filters through the limestone, making the water crystal clear. It's only about 30km northeast of Tha Khaek.

You must ask at the village before swimming in the lake. Once you get approval, only swim in the stream that flows from the lake, near the wooden footbridge, and not in the lake itself. Fishing is banned.

To get here, head north along Rte 13 and turn right (east) at Km 29 onto a dirt road. After 2km, turn right (south) again, and bump up over hills and through villages for 16km until you reach Ban Na Kheu. It's another 1km to the lake.

East on Route 12

The first 22km east of Tha Khaek on Rte 12 is an area with several caves, an abandoned railway line and a couple of swimming spots and can be visited as a day trip or as part of the Loop. This is part of the vast Khammuan Limestone area, which stretches roughly between Rtes 12 and 8 and east towards Rte 8B. There are thousands of caves, sheer cliffs and jagged karst peaks. All these places can be reached by tuk-tuk, bicycle or motorcycle.

Tham Lot Se Bang FaiCAVE

(ຖ້ຳລອດເຊບັ້ງໄຟ )

The most impressive, and yet least visited, cave in Khammuan is the amazing Tham Lot Se Bang Fai. Located in Hin Namno NPA, the cave results from the Se Bang Fai river plunging 6.5km through a limestone mountain, leaving an underground trail of immense caverns, impressive rock formations, rapids and waterfalls that have been seen by only a handful of visitors.

The cave wasn't professionally mapped until 2006, and the Canadian-American that led the expedition concluded that Tham Lot Se Bang Fai is among the largest river caves in the world. Traversing the entire cave involves eight portages and is only possible during the dry season, from January to March. Local wooden canoes can only go as far as the first portage, about 1km into the cave, making inflatable rafts or kayaks the only practical option for traversing the entire length of the cave.

The base for visiting the cave is Ban Nong Ping, a mixed Lao Loum/Salang village about 2km downstream from the cave entrance. Homestays are available as part of an organised tour with ecotourism operator Green Discovery. With a week or so advance notice, you can organise a trip here, starting from about US$265 for a larger group of six or more to as much as US$550 per person for a couple.

Tham XangCAVE

(ຖ້ຳຊ້າງ, Elephant Cave 5000K)

Famous for its stalagmite ‘elephant head’, which is found along a small passage behind the large golden Buddha, this is one of the closest caves to Tha Khaek (it's about 4km away). Bring a torch (flashlight).

Tham Xieng LiapCAVE

(ຖ້ຳຊຽງລຽບ )icon-freeF

Turning off Rte 12 at Km 14 (before a major bridge) you'll come across a sign pointing to this cave. Follow the dirt track south for about 400m near the village of Ban Songkhone (about 10.5km from Rte 13), to the stunning limestone cave Tham Xieng Liap, the entrance of which is at the base of a dramatic 300m-high cliff.

The cave is about 200m long and, in the dry season, you can walk/wade through and swim in the picturesque valley on the far side. Paa faa (soft-shelled turtles) live in the cave, while the cliffs outside are said to be home to the recently discovered kan yoo (Laotian rock rat). In the wet season you'll need to rent a boat (30,000K) from the Xieng Liap bridge.

Tham Nang AenCAVE

(ຖ້ຳນາງແອນ 20,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

The last cave along this stretch of Rte 12 is the touristy Tham Nang Aen, about 18km from Tha Khaek. It's well lit inside, but a little kitsch in terms of the colour scheme. It is also possible to take a small boat deeper into the cave via an underground river.

The turn-off to the cave is indicated by a clear sign just past a left-hand bend 16km from the junction with Rte 13. The 700m-long track should be passable at all but the wettest times.

Tham Pha ChanCAVE

(ຖ້ຳພະຈັນ, Sandalwood Buddha Cave )icon-freeF

Tham Pha Chan has an entrance 60m high and about 100m wide. A stream runs about 600m through a limestone karst and in the dry season it's possible to walk to the far side. At its western end there is a sandalwood Buddha image about 15m above the ground, hence the cave's name. To get here, head north towards Tham Pha Fa at around the Km 14 sign on Rte 12. When the road forks, head northwest for 9km to reach this cave.

Not far from Tham Pha Chan is the Nam Don Resurgence (ຂຸນນ້ຳໂດມ), a cave where the Nam Don (Don River) emerges from the ground. It's quite a physical marvel to see the water coming up and out from the cave, and the lagoon that sits at the bottom of the tall limestone karst is a beautiful swimming spot.

Unfortunately, both are accessed via a rough road that runs 9km north from about 10km east of the junction with Rte 13. Go by motorbike, tuk-tuk or arrange an English-speaking guide through Tha Khaek's Tourist Information Centre.

Savannakhet Province

Savannakhet is the country's most populous province and is home to about 15% of all Lao citizens. Stretching between the Mekong and Thailand in the west and the Annamite mountains and Vietnam in the east, it has become an important trade corridor between these two bigger neighbours. With the smooth surface of Rte 9 complemented by yet another Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, the province is witnessing even more traffic.

The population of around one million includes Lowland Lao, Tai Dam, several small Mon-Khmer groups and communities of Vietnamese and Chinese.

There are three NPAs here: Dong Phu Vieng to the south of Rte 9; remote Phu Xang Hae to the north; and Se Ban Nuan straddling the border with Salavan Province. Eastern Savannakhet is a good place to see remnants of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the primary supply route to South Vietnam for the North Vietnamese Army during the Second Indochina War.

Savannakhet ສະຫວັນນະເຂດ

Pop 140,000 / icon-phonegif%041

Languid, time-trapped and somnolent during the sweltering days that batter the old city's plasterwork, Savannakhet (ສະຫວັນນະເຂດ) is an attractive blend of past and present Laos. The highlight is the historic quarter with its staggering – and that might just be the right adjective – display of decaying early 20th-century architecture. Leprous and listing, these grand old villas of Indochina's heyday now lie unwanted like aged dames crying out for a makeover. There's little to do in town but wander the riverfront and cool off in one of a clutch of stylish restaurants and bijou cafes that are steadily growing in number.

That said, there's plenty to do nearby and Savannakhet has a very dedicated Tourist Information Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212755; Th Si Muang; icon-hoursgifh8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) and eco-guide unit, which offers myriad intrepid trips into the nearby NPAs.

Savannakhet is on a simple north–south grid, and although spread out, is pretty easy to navigate on foot.

1Sights

Much of the charm of Savannakhet is in simply wandering through the quiet streets in the town centre, between the old and new buildings, the laughing children and the slow-moving, petang-playing old men. The Tourist Information Centre's Savannakhet Downtown brochure features a self-guided tour of the city's most interesting buildings. The centre also offers guided tours of the historic downtown district.

Musée Des DinosauresMUSEUM

(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນໄດໂນເສົາ, Dinosaur Museum MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212597; Th Khanthabuli; 10,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-noon & 1-4pm)

In 1930 a major dig in a nearby village unearthed 200-million-year-old dinosaur fossils. The enthusiastically run Dinosaur Museum is an interesting place to see three different dinosaurs. Savannakhet Province is home to five dinosaur sites.

Wat SainyaphumBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ວັດໄຊຍະພູມ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Tha He)icon-freeF

The oldest and largest monastery in southern Laos. The large grounds include some centuries-old trees and a workshop near the river entrance that's a veritable golden Buddha production line.

Wat RattanalangsiBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ວັດລັດຕະນະລັງສີ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phagnapui)icon-freeF

Wat Rattanalangsi was built in 1951 and houses a monks' primary school. The sĭm (ordination hall) is unique in that it has glass windows (most windows in Lao temples are unglazed). Other structures include a rather gaudy Brahma shrine, a modern săhláh lóng tám (sermon hall) and a shelter containing a 15m reclining Buddha backed by Jataka paintings.

Savannakhet Provincial MuseumMUSEUM

(ພິພິດທະພັນແຂວງຊະຫວັນນະເຂດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Khanthabuli; admission 10,000K; icon-hoursgifh8-11.30am & 1-4pm Mon-Sat)

The Savannakhet Provincial Museum is a good place to see war relics, artillery pieces and inactive examples of the deadly unexploded ordnance (UXO) that has claimed the lives of more than 20,000 Lao since the end of the Secret War.

4Sleeping

Pilgrim's InnB&B$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-22133733; www.facebook.com/pilgrimskitchenandinn; 106 Th Lhatphanith; r US$20-25; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Pilgrim's Inn is a small B&B-style place attached to the popular Pilgrim's Kitchen. Guacamole-green rooms feature ample beds, air-con and attached bathrooms with hot water. The current five rooms are set to expand to seven rooms and include some larger family-friendly options.

Fundee GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%030-4841873; Th Santisouk; r 120,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

A new guesthouse tucked down a side soi (lane) off Th Santisouk, Fundee offers great value for money thanks to its smart new rooms with all the trimmings. Ten rooms are already open and another 10 rooms are being added to ensure it can cater to its growing reputation.

Souannavong Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212600; Th Saenna; r with/without air-con 120,000/70,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This little guesthouse down a quiet street abloom in bougainvillea has clean en suite rooms and is unfailingly fresh. A welcoming place to stay thanks to the English-speaking owners. Bicycles and motorbikes are available to rent.

icon-top-choiceoVivanouk HomestayHOMESTAY$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-91606030; www.vivanouk.com; Th Khantabouly; r without bathroom US$30-45; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This funky little place is akin to a boutique homestay and is a great new addition to the Savan scene. There are just three rooms sharing two bathrooms – one with an alfresco outdoor shower – and are delightfully decorated in a contemporary-colonial-era fusion style. Breakfast is available downstairs in an artsy venue that doubles as a bar by night.

Avalon ResidenceHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-252770; www.hotel.avalonbooking.com; Th Sisavangvong; r US$20-32; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Avalon Residence offers smart midrange rooms at an affordable price and is pretty convenient for a stroll to the bus station. The rooms are spacious and have glistening bathrooms, Lao silks and flat-screen TVs. Downstairs is a small air-conditioned cafe.

Phonepaseud HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212158; Th Santisouk; r 200,000-280,000K; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Phonepaseud has a friendly English-speaking owner, a clean lobby and imaginatively tile-floored, French-wallpapered rooms with air-con, TV, fridge and en suite plus much larger VIP rooms. Outside there's a fountain guarded by a naga (river serpent), mature trees, plenty of plants and a tennis court.

Daosavanh Resort & Spa HotelHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-252188; www.dansavanh.com; Th Tha He; r incl breakfast US$51-107; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This ostentatious hotel overlooking the Mekong offers a slice of international comfort, and its kidney-shaped pool is very welcome on sweltering days, of which there are many in Savan. Rooms are large and immaculate, and prices include free airport transfers.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoSavannakhet Plaza Food MarketMARKET, LAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Savannakhet Plaza; meals 10,000-30,000K; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm)

An excellent new addition to the Savan dining scene, this nightly food market brings 20 or more stalls to the Savannakhet Plaza area in the heart of the old town. This is street-food surfing at its best, with a choice of freshly barbecued skewers, steaming noodle soups, dim-sum-sushi-tapas confusion and more. Plus Beerlao in plentiful supply.

icon-top-choiceoSala VannLAOTIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-55645111; Ban Phonsavan; mains 10,000-90,000K; icon-hoursgifh10am-10pm; icon-wifigifW)

Stunningly set on the Mekong about 500m south of the old hospital, this lovely Laotian restaurant is housed in a traditional wooden sala. The menu is enticingly affordable and draws a mixed crowd come sunset and beyond, when there is sometimes live music. As well as Lao and Thai favourites, there are even steaks and pasta.

icon-top-choiceoLin's CaféINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%030-5332188; Th Phetsalat; mains 30,000-60,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-veggifv)

Savannakhet's original travellers cafe, this delightful spot has outgrown its former home and relocated to a new open-plan house near St Theresa's Cathedral. It's popular for its easy vibe, friendly staff, reservoir of local information, retro eclectic interior and gallery upstairs. But best of all are the cappuccinos, Thai green curry, tasty burgers, fruit salad and fresh pastries.

Pilgrim's KitchenINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-22133733; www.facebook.com/pilgrimskitchenandinn; 106 Th Lhatphanith; mains 30,000-60,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm Mon-Sat; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This international cafe has an eclectic menu of Tex-Mex, Americana, Indian and more. It's a delightful air-conditioned retreat on a hot day and offers its own concoctions such as an iced espresso bomb, where an iced espresso melts into a glass of fresh milk. Top Indian food, good burgers and some vegetarian options too. Five rooms are available upstairs.

Cafe Chai DeeJAPANESE, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%030-5003336; www.cafechaidee.com; Th Ratsavongsouk; mains 20,000-50,000K; icon-hoursgifh9am-3pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-veggifv)

This spotless Japanese-owned cafe has rattan mats to lounge on, a book exchange and a wide menu of Japanese classics like ramen and tonkatsu (pork coated in breadcrumbs and fried), plus samosas, homemade yoghurt, Thai food and healthy shakes. Great breakfasts, too. Expect super fresh, well-presented food, fast wi-fi and warm service.

Khao Piak Nang NoyLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-77744248; Th Ratsavongseuk; soups 10,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm)

Nang Noy sells what is probably the most popular, and almost certainly the richest, khào pìak sèn (thick noodles served in a slightly viscous broth with crispy deep-fried pork belly or chicken) in Savannakhet. There's no English-language sign, so look for the busy stall under the Pepsi awning.

Riverside Snack & Drink VendorsSTREET FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm)

The riverside snack and drink vendors are a great place for sundowners, serving cheap big bottles of Beerlao (10,000K) and sìn daat (Lao hotpot barbecue) sizzling away on charcoal grills.

Macchiato da CoffeeCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%020-99111298; 999 Rte 9 West; mains 35,000-200,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-11pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

This cavernous contemporary coffee shop on the road to the Friendship Bridge is a bit bling for Savannakhet. With a London Underground theme and a Savannakhet tube sign, this is all about designer, barista-brewed coffees and jam-jar juices. The food menu is impressive, but a little on the pricey side for Savan – 800,000K for Wagyu beef!

White House RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%030-9775588; Th Udomsin; mains 45,000-245,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Brace yourselves, you may not have expected this in Savannakhet. A huge colonial-style compound is home to one of the city's most upscale restaurants and a charming little cafe. The menu is an around-the-world tour, including Lao, Thai and Chinese favourites, plus New Zealand lamb and Australian tenderloin. Steaming noodle soup is an affordable breakfast option.

Lao Lao DerLAOTIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212270; mains 30,000-90,000K; icon-hoursgifh10am-11pm)

This riverside restaurant, 2km north of the old stadium, is one of the only places in town to offer great Mekong views. The hefty menu spans Lao, Thai and Chinese dishes, but Lao Lao Der functions equally well as a bar. It was undergoing a major renovation during our last visit.

Café Chez BouneFRENCH$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafechezboune.com; Th Ratsavongseuk; mains 15,000-150,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Glacially cool, orange-walled and hung with Parisian oils, Chez Boune has a French-speaking owner and is deservedly popular with expats. This must have something to do with the decent service and tasty steaks, pasta dishes, lasagne, pork chops and filet mignon, all of which are executed with élan.

Dao SavanhFRENCH$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-260888; Th Si Muang; mains 100,000-150,000K, 3-course cafe lunch 65,000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

With its elegant colonial-era facade, this cool, square-facing restaurant is still one of the city's finest, despite increased competition. Fans whir and wine glasses clink as you tuck into a French-accented menu of soups, grilled entrecôte and lamp chop Provençal. The upstairs restaurant is the classy sister (evenings only), while downstairs the all-day cafe has salads, sandwiches and croque-monsieur (gourmet version of a toasted ham and cheese sandwich).

6Drinking & Nightlife

icon-top-choiceoSook SavanBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Si Muang; icon-hoursgifh4pm-midnight; icon-wifigifW)

The atmospheric Sook Savan occupies a strategic corner overlooking Savannakhet Sq and draws a lively crowd from about 7pm onwards. Beer is the main ingredient on the menu here, but it also offers traditional Laotian food with a spicy kick to help wash it down. Live music on weekend nights and a bit of a party atmosphere.

Savanlaty NightclubCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-hoursgifh7pm-late)

One of a cluster of out-of-town nightclubs in this area, Savanlaty Nightclub is one of the most rockin' with a live band belting out Thai rock anthems and international tunes. Open late if you have the legs for it.

8Information

Internet Access

There are several internet cafes along the western side of Th Ratsavongseuk, between Th Sutthanu and Th Chaokeen; most are open from about 8am to 10pm and charge 6000K per hour.

Medical Services

Provincial Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212717; Th Khanthabuli) Ask for English-speaking Dr Outhon.

Money

BCEL ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Ratsavongseuk; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm) and Lao Development Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th Udomsin; icon-hoursgifh8.30-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm) both have cash exchange, credit-card advances and an ATM. Phongsavanh Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-300888; Th Ratsavongseuk; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat) services are limited to cash exchange and an ATM.

Police

Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-260173)

Post

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212205; Th Khanthabuli) International calls here are overpriced; make calls via an internet connection instead.

Tourist Information

Tourist information in Savannakhet is plentiful and professional.

Eco-Guide Unit The industrious eco-guide unit provides a range of services, from bookings for treks to Dong Natad PPA and Dong Phu Vieng NPA, to bus times, accommodation and tips on where to get a decent massage or hire a motorbike (not both at the same time!).

Savanbanhao Tourism Co ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212944; Savanbanhao Hotel, Th Saenna; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Tours to Sepon and the Ho Chi Minh Trail and Heuan Hin can be arranged here. Bus tickets to Vietnam are also available.

SK Travel & Tour ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-300177; Th Chaimeuang; icon-hoursgifh8am-4pm) Air tickets can be arranged here.

Tourist Information Centre A useful stop for a selection of well-produced brochures on Savannakhet and its surrounds.

8Getting There & Away

Most travellers arrive and depart Savannakhet by road, with convenient bus links to all points in Laos and international destinations in Thailand and Vietnam. The airport offers limited flight connections to Vientiane, Pakse and Bangkok.

Air

Savannakhet's airport ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212140; Th Kaysone Phomvihane) is served solely by Lao Airlines, with domestic connections to Vientiane (490,000K–895,000K, 55 minutes, four weekly), Pakse (320,000K–520,000K, 30 minutes, four weekly) and Bangkok (US$105–US$150, 80 minutes, four weekly). Tickets can be purchased at the Lao Airlines office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212140; Savannakhet Airport; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-4.30pm) at the airport or travel agents in town.

An alternative option for those wanting to save money on the Bangkok route is to cross the Friendship Bridge and connect with the Fly-Drive services offered with Air Asia or Nok Air via Nakhon Phanom Airport; tickets are available from less than 1000B.

The airport is located at the southeastern edge of town; jumbos make the trip downtown for 30,000K, although they may start higher when fresh off the plane on arrival.

GETTING TO THAILAND: SAVANNAKHET TO MUKDAHAN

Since the construction of the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge back in 2006, non-Thai and non-Lao citizens are not allowed to cross between Mukdahan and Savannakhet by boat.

Getting to the border The Thai-Lao International Bus crosses the Savannakhet (Laos)/Mukdahan (Thailand) border crossing (6am to 10pm) in both directions. From Savannakhet's bus terminal, the Thai-Lao International Bus (15,000K, 45 minutes) departs approximately every hour from 8am to 7pm. It leaves Mukdahan's bus station (50B, 45 minutes) roughly every hour from 7.30am to 7pm and also stops at the border crossing to pick up passengers.

At the border Be sure not to board the Savan Vegas Casino staff bus at the border, as this also stops at the international bus stop but heads out of town to the eponymous casino resort.

The Lao border offers 30-day tourist visas on arrival. If you don't have a photo you'll be charged the equivalent of US$1. An additional US$1 'overtime fee' is charged from 6am to 8am and 6pm to 10pm on weekdays, as well as on weekends and holidays. Most nationalities do not require a visa to cross into Thailand; check with the Vietnamese consulate in Savannakhet.

Moving on Onward from Mukdahan, there are at least five daily buses bound for Bangkok. Alternatively, to save time, consider a fly-drive option with Air Asia or Nok Air, including an express minivan to Nakhon Phanom Airport and a budget flight to Bangkok.

Bus

Savannakhet's bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%041-212143), usually called the khíw lot, is near the Talat Savan Xai at the northern edge of town. Buses leave here for Vientiane (75,000K, eight to 11 hours, 457km) roughly every half-hour from 6am to 11.30am. From 1.30pm to 10pm you'll have to hop on a bus passing through from Pakse, which stop at Tha Khaek (30,000K, 2½ to four hours, 125km). Hourly sŏrngtăaou and minivans also head to Tha Khaek (30,000K) from 8am to 4pm. A VIP sleeper bus (120,000K, six to eight hours) to Vientiane leaves at 9.30pm, or you could try to pick up a seat on one of the VIP buses coming through from Pakse.

Ten daily buses to Pakse (45,000K, five to six hours, 230km) originate in Savannakhet; the first is at 7am and the last at 10pm. Otherwise, jump on one of the regular buses passing through from Vientiane. There's also a daily bus to Don Khong (80,000K, six to eight hours, 367km) at 7pm, and two daily buses to Attapeu (80,000K, eight to 10 hours, 410km) at 9am and 7pm.

Buses leave for the Laos–Vietnam border at Dansavanh (60,000K, five to six hours, 236km) at 7am, 8.30am and 11am, stopping at Sepon (50,000K, four to five hours).

To Vietnam, there's a bus to Dong Ha (80,000K, about seven hours, 350km), departing at 8am on even-numbered dates. For Hué, there's a local bus (90,000K, about 13 hours, 409km) daily at 10pm and a VIP bus (110,000K, about eight hours) at 10.30am from Monday to Friday. There's also a bus to Danang (110,000K, about 10 hours, 508km) at 10pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; the same bus continues to Hanoi (200,000K, about 24 hours, 650km), but we reckon you'd have to be a masochist to consider this journey.

GETTING TO VIETNAM: SAVANNAKHET TO DONG HA

Getting to the border Crossing the Dansavanh (Laos)/Lao Bao (Vietnam) border (7am to 7.30pm) is a relative pleasure. From Savannakhet's bus terminal, buses leave for Dansavanh (60,000K, five to six hours, 236km) at 7am, 8.30am and 11am. Alternatively, consider breaking the journey for a night in Sepon as a base for seeing the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

The bus station in Dansavanh is about 1km short of the border; Vietnamese teenagers on motorbikes are more than happy to take you the rest of the way for about 10,000K.

At the border The Lao border offers 30-day tourist visas on arrival and has an exchange booth. Some nationalities require a Vietnam visa in advance, so check with the Vietnamese consulate in Savannakhet. Most regional visitors, Scandinavian visitors, and British, French, German, Italian and Spanish visitors do not need a visa.

Moving on Once through, take a motorbike (40,000d or US$2) 2km to the Lao Bao bus terminal and transport to Dong Ha (70,000d, two hours, 80km) on Vietnam's main north–south highway and railway. Entering Laos, there are buses to Savannakhet (60,000K, five to six hours) at 7.30am, 9.30am, 10am and noon, as well as regular sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) to Sepon (30,000K, one hour) from 7am to 5pm. Simple accommodation is available on both sides of the border.

If you're in a hurry, an alternative is to take one of the various direct buses from Savannakhet bound for the Vietnamese cities of Dong Ha, Hué and Danang.

8Getting Around

Savannakhet is just big enough that you might occasionally need a jumbo. A charter around town costs around 15,000K and more like 20,000K to the bus station.

Motorcycles can be hired at Souannavong Guest House for 70,000K to 80,000K per day. The eco-guide unit provides a comprehensive list of places that hire out motorbikes. There are also a few places to rent bicycles; most are along Th Ratsavongseuk and charge about 10,000K per day.

Around Savannakhet

1Sights

That Ing HangTEMPLE

(ທາດອິງຮັງ 5000K; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm)

Thought to have been built in the mid-16th century, this well-proportioned, 9m-high thâat is the second-holiest religious edifice in southern Laos after Wat Phu Champasak. It's located about 11.5km northeast of Savannakhet via Rte 9, then 3km east and the turn-off is clearly signposted. Going by bicycle or motorbike is the easiest option.

The Buddha is believed to have stopped here when he was sick during his wanderings back in ancient times. He rested by leaning (ing) on a hang tree (thus Ing Hang). A relic of the Buddha's spine is reputed to be kept inside the thâat.

Not including the Mon-inspired cubical base, That Ing Hang was substantially rebuilt during the reign of King Setthathirat (1548–71) and now features three terraced bases topped by a traditional Lao stupa and a gold umbrella weighing 40 baht (450g). A hollow chamber in the lower section contains a fairly undistinguished collection of Buddha images; by religious custom, women are not permitted to enter the chamber. The French restored That Ing Hang in 1930. The That Ing Hang Festival is held on the full moon of the first lunar month.

Any northbound bus can stop here, or you could haggle with a sakai-làap (jumbo) driver to take you here (you'll do well to knock him down below 100,000K return).

Dong NatadWILDLIFE RESERVE

(ດົງນາທາດ )

Dong Natad is a sacred, semi-evergreen forest within a provincial protected area 15km from Savannakhet. It's home to two villages that have been coexisting with the forest for about 400 years, with villagers gathering forest products such as mushrooms, fruit, oils, honey, resins and insects. It's possible to visit Dong Natad by bicycle, motorbike or tuk-tuk from Savannakhet. Travelling alone to Dong Natad will be something of a 'forest-lite' experience, however. It's better to engage one of Savannakhet's English-speaking guides through the eco-guide unit.

The unit offers various programs, ranging from multiday homestays to one-day cycling trips, and ranging in price from 1,000,000K to 2,000,000K for one person in a group of two (prices drop substantially the more people there are). These community-based trips have had plenty of positive feedback and the combination of English-speaking guide and village guide proves a great source of information about how the local people live. If you visit, there's a good chance you'll encounter villagers collecting red ants, cicadas or some other critter, depending on the season; all are important parts of their diet and economy. Make arrangements at least a day ahead.

Heuan HinRUINS

(ເຮືອນຫິນ, Stone House )

On the Mekong River about 90km south of Savannakhet is this set of Cham or Khmer ruins, built between AD 553 and 700. Apart from a few walls, most of the stones of this pre-Angkorian site now lie in piles of rubble. Sŏrngtăaou (30,000K, two to three hours, 78km) leave Talat Savan Xai when full (usually mid-morning).

No carvings remain, with the only known lintel having been carted off to Paris. It's a long haul by public transport and you'd need to be a truly dedicated temple enthusiast to make the trip here. With your own transport, head south along Rte 13 and turn west at Ban Nong Nokhian, near Km 490, from where it's a dusty 17km to the site. Guided tours are also available from Savannakhet.

Dong Phu Vieng NPA ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດດົງພູວຽງ

One of the most fascinating treks in Laos is to Dong Phu Vieng NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດດົງພູວຽງ), which offers a rare chance to step into a rapidly disappearing world. The park, south of Muang Phin in the centre of Savannakhet Province, is home to a number of Katang villages, where you can stay if you observe local customs.

The trek involves a fair bit of walking through a mix of forests ranging from dense woodlands to bamboo forests and rocky areas with little cover, or paths only accessible during the dry season (November to May). There's a boat trip on the third day. A village guide leads trekkers through a sacred forest where you'll see lak la'puep (clan posts placed in the jungle by village families). Animals regularly seen include the rare silver langur, the leaf monkey and the hornbill.

SLEEPING WITH SPIRITS

The Katang villagers of Dong Phu Vieng National Protected Area (NPA) believe in the myriad spirits that surround them in the forest. One of the most important is the house spirit, which is believed to live in the home of every village family. Over the centuries a series of taboos have been developed in an effort to avoid disturbing this spirit, and as a visitor in a Katang home, it is vitally important you don't break them.

AYou should never enter the owner's bedroom or touch the spirit place.

ADo not sleep beside a person of the opposite sex, even if that person is your spouse. If you really can't be separated tell the eco-guide unit and they can bring a tent for you.

ASleep with your head pointed towards the nearest outside wall; never point your feet at the outside wall or, spirits forbid, another person's head.

It goes without saying that these villages are extremely sensitive to outside influence, which is why you can only visit them as part of the organised trek through the eco-guide unit in Savannakhet.

Phu Xang Hae NPA ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດຊ້າງແຫ່

Named after Wild Elephant Mountain, Phu Xang Hae NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດຊ້າງແຫ່ ) is a long expanse of forest stretching east–west across the remote north of Savannakhet Province, and its hills are the source of several smaller rivers. The eco-guide unit in Savannakhet previously ran a five-day community-based trek here, but this is currently not operating due to a lack of demand.

The Phu Thai people who live here, like the Katang of Dong Phu Vieng NPA, observe a series of taboos. Unfortunately, the diabolical state of the roads means getting into Phu Xang Hae is very difficult.

Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail

Pop 40,000 / icon-phonegif%041

Like so many other towns that needed to be rebuilt following the Second Indochina War, Sepon (often spelt Xepon) is today fairly unremarkable. The main reason for coming here is to see parts of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and what's left of the old district capital, Sepon Kao, 6km to the east.

1Sights

Sepon was once an important hub on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and there are several key war-related sites in the area. Savannakhet's Tourist Information Centre publishes a map-based guide of the area, which is useful when exploring the area.

War MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%020-99919709; Ban Dong; 10,000K; icon-hoursgifh8am-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Sun)

Twenty kilometres east of Sepon, Ban Dong (Dong Village) was on one of the major thoroughfares of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and is the easiest place to see what little material is left from the war. Most of what was previously scattered around the area has been gathered into the gated front lawn of the newly opened War Museum.

These include two American-built tanks used during Operation Lam Son 719, a disastrous Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN) assault on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in February 1971. Despite support from US combat aircraft, the ARVN troops retreated across the border at Lao Bao after being routed by seasoned North Vietnamese Army (NVA) troops at Ban Dong. To see the tanks, part of a plane, guns and other scrap, the museum is at the eastern edge of Ban Dong and is bordered by a baby-blue-and-pink fence.

Muang PhinHISTORIC SITE

(ເມືອງພິນ )icon-freeF

An imposing Vietnamese-built monument to Lao-Vietnamese cooperation during the Indochina wars stands in Muang Phin, 155km east of Savannakhet and 34km west of Sepon. Done in the stark 'Heroes of Socialism' style, the monument depicts North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and Pathet Lao (PL) soldiers waving an AK-47 and Lao flag aloft.

HO CHI MINH TRAIL

The infamous Ho Chi Minh Trail is actually a complex network of dirt paths and gravel roads running parallel to the Laos–Vietnam border from Khammuan Province in the north to Cambodia in the south. The trail's heaviest use occurred between 1966 and 1971 when more than 600,000 North Vietnamese Army (NVA) troops – along with masses of provisions and 500,000 tonnes of trucks, tanks, weapons and ordnance – passed along the route in direct violation of the 1962 Geneva Accords. At any one time around 30,000 NVA troops guarded the trail, which was honeycombed with underground barracks, fuel and vehicle repair depots, hospitals and rest camps, as well as ever-more-sophisticated anti-aircraft emplacements.

The North Vietnamese denied the existence of the trail throughout most of the war. And the US denied bombing it. In spite of 1.1 million tonnes of saturation bombing (begun in 1965 and reaching up to 900 sorties per day by 1969, including outings by B-52 behemoths), traffic along the route was never interrupted for more than a few days. Like a column of ants parted with a stick, the Vietnamese soldiers and supplies poured southward with only an estimated 15% to 20% of the cargo affected by the bombardment. One estimate says 300 bombs were dropped for every NVA casualty.

Contrary to popular understanding, the trail was neither a single route nor a tiny footpath. Several NVA engineering battalions worked on building roads, bridges and defence installations, and methods to hide the trails from the air were simple but ingenious. Bridges were built just below the water level and branches were tied together to hide what had become wide roads.

Today, the most accessible points are at Ban Dong, east of Sepon, and the village of Pa-am in Attapeu Province, which sits almost right on the main thoroughfare. Here you can see a couple of tanks and a surface-to-air missile. Elsewhere you'll need to get way out into the sticks and get locals to guide you.

Drivenbyadventure, run by Vientiane-based GPS mapper Don Duvall, runs all-inclusive history-infused motorbike trips on the trail. Check out some amazing photographs to whet your appetite for adventure at www.laosgpsmap.com/ho-chi-minh-trail-laos.

4Sleeping

Vieng Xay GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%041-214895; Rte 9; s/d from 70,000/80,000K; icon-acongifa)

The Vieng Xay is hands down the town's best digs, with 30 mostly large rooms with TV, air-con and hot water. There's also a decent cafe serving Lao fare. A stairway bordered by bomb casings leads to more rooms out the back.

Khamvieng Tienmalay GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(icon-phonegif%020-2246519; r 80,000-100,000K)

This guesthouse just west of the market has 10 basic rooms with fans and en suite bathrooms but little else in the way of comforts.

8Getting There & Away

Sŏrngtăaou and the occasional bus leave from outside Sepon's market for Savannakhet (35,000K, four to five hours, 196km) between about 8am and 3pm; otherwise, flag down any bus heading west for the same price. There are also relatively frequent sŏrngtăaou to Ban Dong (10,000K) and the border at Dansavanh (20,000K, one hour) during the same times, or you could hop on any bus going in that direction.