Southern Laos

Why Go?

Near the Cambodian border, the Mekong awakes from its slumber, slams into Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) and disintegrates into a series of churning rapids. Downstream, a dwindling pod of rare Irrawaddy dolphins seek solace in a deep river pool. In between, an expanding pod of travellers find their own solace in the hammock-strewn bungalows of Don Det and Don Khon.

Kayaking or bicycling around these bucolic islands is the signature southern Laos experience, but the rest of this incredibly diverse region – home to Angkorian temples, highland cultures, huge waterfalls, prime trekking, and raw off-the-beaten-track experiences – remained off the radar until recently. Exploring the area by rented motorbike makes for a very rewarding trip.

No longer just the realm of backpackers, southern Laos now has a scattering of upscale rural lodges and boutique hotels. New highways and dams are changing the landscape forever, so hurry up and get here.

When to Go

AOct–Nov Ideal time for bike touring, as rains trickle and dust remains manageable.

ADec–Feb Sunny and cooler – make that downright cold – on the Bolaven Plateau.

AApr It's terribly hot, but the three-day Pi Mai (New Year) means heat-beating water fights and Beerlao parties.

Best Places to Eat

A Four Thousand Sunsets

A Rahn Naem Khao Mae Fuean

A King Kong Resort

Best Places to Sleep

A Kingfisher Ecolodge

A Captain Hook Coffee Break

A Residence Sisouk

A Sala Done Khone

A Inthira Champasak Hotel

Southern Laos Highlights

1 Don Khon Ogling fierce cascades and spotting rare dolphins while touring the island by bicycle or kayak.

2 Kiet Ngong Taking a trek and a boat trip in the jungle around the region's premier ecotourism area.

3 Wat Phu Champasak Exploring this ancient Khmer temple complex.

4 Bolaven Plateau Gazing in awe at 100m-high waterfalls, sipping fair-trade coffee and soaking in the cool climate on a motorcycle trip around this plateau.

5 Si Phan Don Watching the sun set over the Mekong from the horizontal perspective of your hammock at this tropical island paradise in the Mekong River.

6 Tat Lo Waterfall-hopping and village visiting around this backpacker magnet with a laid-back vibe.

Pakse ປາກເຊ

Pop 75,000 / %031

Pakse (ປາກເຊ), the capital of Champasak Province and the gateway to southern Laos, sits at the confluence of the Mekong and the Se Don (Don River). Most travellers don't linger long because there's not much to do. The city lacks the sort of Mekong River–town lethargy found in Savannakhet and Tha Khaek further north and fewer colonial-era buildings remain.

Pakse serves mostly as a launching pad for forays to surrounding attractions such as the Bolaven Plateau and Wat Phu Champasak, and the many good restaurants, stylish hotels and clued-in tour companies make it a comfortable and convenient one.

Pakse

1Sights

1Champasak Historical Heritage MuseumF2

2Sacred Heart CathedralC3

3Talat Dao HeuangG4

4Wat LuangA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Dok Champa MassageB2

6Green DiscoveryB2

Vat Phou CruisesA2

7Xplore-AsiaB1

4Sleeping

8Alisa GuesthouseB1

9Athena HotelD1

10Champasak Palace HotelD1

11Nang Noi GuesthouseB2

12Pakse HotelB2

13Residence SisoukA2

14Sabaidy 2 GuesthouseC1

5Eating

15BanlaoB4

16ChampadyB1

17Daolin RestaurantC1

18Dok Mai Trattoria ItalianaC1

19Friendship MinimartB1

20Jasmine RestaurantB1

21La TerrasseC1

22Lankham Noodle ShopB1

Le PanoramaB2

23Noodle Shop MengkyB1

24Pon SaiC2

25Rahn Naem Khao Mae FueanA2

Sinouk Coffee ShopA2

7Shopping

26Champasak Shopping CentreA2

27Dream WeaverA2

28Monument BooksA2

29Pakse SouvenirsB2

8Information

30BCELA2

31Champasak HospitalB3

ImmigrationB2

32International Hitech PolyclinicB3

Lankham Hotel Currency Exchange CounterB1

33Lao Development BankB1

34Main Police StationB2

Miss NoyB1

35Pakse TravelB1

36Provincial Tourism OfficeA2

37SL TravelC1

38Vietnamese ConsulateC1

Transport

AvisB2

1Sights

Talat Dao HeuangMARKET

(ຕະຫຼາດດາວເຮືອງ, New Market MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h5am-6pm)

This vast market near the Lao-Japanese Bridge is one of the biggest in the country. It's at its most chaotic in the food zones, but just about anything a person might need – from medicinal herbs to mobile phones – is sold here. It's highly worth a wander.

Wat Phou SalaoVIEWPOINT

(ວັດພູສະເຫຼົ້າ GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 16)

The centrepiece of this hilltop temple across the Mekong from Pakse is the giant Buddha statue looking out over the city. The views from his perch are as fantastic as you'd expect, especially at sunset. To enjoy them, take the first left after the bridge and either climb up the long staircase or take the 4.5km road route up the back.

Sacred Heart CathedralCHURCH

(ມະຫາວິຫານທີ່ສັກສິດຫົວໃຈ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 10; h5.30am-8pm)

This modest, tin-roofed building isn't much to look at from the outside, but the one-of-a-kind paintings inside are worth the trip. They show Jesus in various spots around southern Laos, including Wat Phu Champasak and Khon Phapheng Falls, meeting with various tribal peoples wearing traditional dress.

Wat LuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ວັດຫຼວງ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11)

There are about 20 wats in Pakse, among which the riverside Wat Luang is one of the largest. The old monastic school, built in 1935, features a commanding tiled roof and ornate concrete pillars while two newer buildings have modern murals telling the Buddha's life story and other tales.

Champasak Historical Heritage MuseumMUSEUM

(ພິພິດທະພັນມໍລະດົກປະຫວັດສາດຈຳປາສັກ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; 10,000K; h8.30-11.30am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

Though the labelling certainly could be better, this is a museum worth visiting. Highlights include ancient Dong Son bronze drums, unusual stone carvings unearthed up on the Bolaven Plateau in Bachieng District, stelae in Tham script dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, Khmer stone carvings, musical instruments, and some American Unexploded Ordnance (UXO). Also of interest is the textile and jewellery collection from ethnic minorities such as the Nyaheun, Suay and Laven, with large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs.

2Activities

Vat Phou CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251446; www.vatphou.com; just off Th 11; hoffice 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, no cruises in Jun)

Operates three-day luxury Mekong cruises between Pakse and Si Phan Don, including visits to Wat Phu Champasak and Khon Phapheng waterfall.

Dok Champa MassageMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-54188778; Th 5; massages 50,000-100,000K; h9am-10pm)

Again and again Dok Champa comes out on top as the favourite Pakse spa, thanks to its friendly and professional staff offering you exactly the level of robust or soft pampering your weary muscles require. Reservations are recommended.

Clinic Keo Ou DonMASSAGE

(Traditional Medicine Hospice; GOOGLE MAP ; %020-5431115, 031-251895; massage 45,000-120,000K, sauna 20,000K; h9am-9pm, sauna 3-9pm)

Professional and popular, this centre has an air-conditioned massage room and herbal sauna segregated by gender. To get here, head out of town on Rte 38 and turn right towards Pakse Golf, 1km east of Champasak Grand Hotel. It's on the right-hand side just a couple of hundred metres down and has both blue and green signs.

TTours

Most people organise their southern Laos tours and treks in Pakse. Pretty much all hotels and travel agencies sell a standard selection of day trips to the Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phu Champasak, and Kiet Ngong. The cheapest tours are simply transportation; admission fees and meals are not included and there is no guide. For many people this is fine, but for others it's a disappointing surprise. Be sure you know what you are getting before you agree to go.

Green DiscoveryADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-252908; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th 10; 2-day Tree Top Explorer tour 2-/4-person group per person US$308/240; h8am-8pm)

Green Discovery is a solid all-around tour company offering private and small group tours. It goes places and does things no other company does. Its signature trip is the Tree Top Explorer adventure in Dong Hua Sao NPA near Paksong on the Bolaven Plateau. It consists of two or three days' ziplining, canopy walking and jungle trekking around waterfalls beyond any roads.

4Sleeping

The tourist centre is on Rte 13 between the Souphanouvong Bridge (formerly the French Bridge) and Th 24. Stay here if you want easy access to travel agencies, motorbike rentals, money changers and touristy restaurants. Around the corner you'll find more hotels and restaurants in the commercial district, which is centred around the Champasak Shopping Centre. If you're staying anywhere else, rent a motorbike or bicycle to get around.

oAlisa GuesthouseHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-251555; www.alisa-guesthouse.com; Rte 13; r 120,000-150,000K, f 200,000K; naiW)

Perhaps the best value lodging in Pakse, Alisa has sparkling rooms, tiled floors, solid wood beds, armoires, working satellite TV and a fridge. Service is good too. The only significant knock is that some rooms barely catch a wi-fi signal. No surprise, it's often full.

Nang Noi GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9562544; bounthong1978@hotmail.com; Th 5; dm 40,000K, r 60,000-110,000K, f 200,000K; aW)

Around the corner from the tourist strip, but seemingly far away, this popular (ie often full) spot has quiet, spiffy rooms and English-speaking owners. Note the 11pm curfew.

Sabaidy 2 GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212992; www.sabaidy2tour.com; Th 24; dm 35,000K, d with fan/air-con 100,000/125,000K, s/d without bathroom 50,000/70,000K; aW)

Though not the great place it used to be, Sabaidy 2 still has an easy, relaxed vibe and is the most communal spot in town. Rooms are split between the older wooden building, which is basic but clean, and a much better new building in back: think wooden balcony, beneath which coy carp swim; rustic-chic interiors; desks and air-con.

oAthena HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214888; www.athenahotelpakse.com; Rte 13; r incl breakfast US$70-100; naiWs)

Easily the most modern and slick hotel in Pakse, Athena's subdued style features a lot of wood. The beds are marshmallowy delights, and dimming inlaid ceiling lights let you illuminate them in many ways. The cosy pool is most welcome after a day out on dusty roads. It's about a 10-minute walk from the tourist centre.

oResidence SisoukBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214716; www.residence-sisouk.com; cnr Th 9 & Th 11; r US$50-100; naiW)

This exquisite boutique hotel occupies a lovely old house and evokes a bit of old France. The rooms enjoy polished hardwood floors, flat-screen TVs, verandahs, Hmong bed runners, stunning photography and fresh flowers everywhere. Breakfast is in the penthouse cafe with great views. Paying extra gets you a bigger, brighter room with a balcony in front; standard rooms are at the back.

Pakse HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212131; www.paksehotel.com; Th 5; s 200,000-500,000K, d 250,000-550,000K, ste 700,000-950,000K, all incl breakfast; aiW)

This traditional-luxe hotel towering over central Pakse has a welcoming lobby and corridors festooned with indigenous sculptures and textiles. The economy rooms are dark (windows only open to the interior hallway) and the standard rooms are cramped, so consider an upgrade to at least a superior (from 350,000K), which includes Mekong views.

Mekong Paradise ResortHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212120; r US$38-85; naW)

A riverside spot just 3km southeast of central Pakse that makes for a wonderful escape from the city. Most rooms have unbeatable Mekong sunset views. The superior rooms (US$55) with their private balconies are almost romantic, but the views are actually better from the US$45 Mekong Paradise rooms. The Garden View rooms (US$38) defeat the point of staying out here.

Champasak Palace HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212263; www.champasakpalacehotel.com; Rte 13; s 200,000-350,000K, d 250,000-400,000K, ste 550,000-2,000,000K; aW)

You can't miss this vast, wedding-cake-style building originally built as a palace for Chao Boun Oum, the last prince of Champasak and Lao prime minister between 1960 and 1962. The standard rooms are a tad twee, but well-kept with comfortable beds, while the graceful restaurant and common areas turn heads with wood columns, louvred windows and random flair such as the rooftop lounge's ceiling.

5Eating

Two good morning spots for delicious fĕr (rice noodles) are the Noodle Shop Mengky ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; noodles 15,000K; h6am-1pm) and the more tourist-friendly Lankham Noodle Shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; noodles 15,000-25,000K; h6am-2pm; W) across the road. The later also does baguette sandwiches.

Self-caterers can head to the centrally located Friendship Minimart ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-8pm) or the larger, but distant Friendship Super Mart ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h9am-9pm) inside the Friendship Mall. Several fruit vendors open early to late next to Champasak Shopping Centre.

oPon SaiLAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For a wonderful local morning experience, head to Pon Sai at the junction of Th 34 and Th 46, which bustles with small shops and street vendors selling fĕr, baguette sandwiches, kòw nĕeo bîng (grilled, egg-dipped sticky rice patties) and many doughy delights. Though it's best in the morning, some shops stay open through the day and into the night.

oRahn Naem Khao Mae FueanLAOTIAN, THAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; mains 25,000-40,000K; h9am-10.30pm; W)

This local joint offers a rare combination: real-deal Lao food and an English-language menu. Well, something close to English anyway…the 'fried chicken power' is really stir-fried holy basil with chicken. It's well-known for pan mîiang baa (a sort of make-your-own fish sandwich) and also serves láhp (spicy Lao-style salad of minced meat poultry or fish) and Mekong River algae soup. The deck on the Se Don is a big bonus.

La TerrasseLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; mains 20,000-65,000K; h7.30am-11pm; W)

A block off the main road on the edge of the tourist strip, the clientele are a mix of travellers and expats. The menu is half Lao-Thai and half Western, though the stars are the giant wood-fired pizzas (evenings only) and over-stuffed baguette sandwiches. It also brews its own special fruity lòw-lów (rice whisky).

Daolin RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 15,000-50,000K; h6am-10pm; Wv)

Despite the incessant traffic noise, this restaurant is usually filled with backpackers due to good food and service. It has a range of pastas and some of the best Thai food in town. It's the perfect spot for vegetarians to try Lao food that is usually meat-based, such as pumpkin om curry and mushroom gôy.

ChampadyTHAI, LAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 13; mains 13,000-40,000K; h7am-8pm; Wv)

One of Pakse's best choices for Thai food, Champady has a fairly extensive menu from glass-noodle salad to southern sour curry, plus a good selection of coffees and juices, all served on a small patio. We recommend the hearty tôm yam.

Sinouk Coffee ShopCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th 9 & Th 11; mains 30,000-45,000K; h6.30am-9pm; aW)

Stylish Sinouk has glass-topped tables inlaid with coffee beans as that's what it's all about – delicious Arabica coffee grown on its plantation in the Bolavan Plateau. If you're after more, then get started on the panini sandwiches, salads, pastas and the usual Thai-Lao mix of dishes. It's one of the priciest spots in the city, but the quality is high.

Jasmine RestaurantINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; mains 10,000-30,000K; h7am-11pm; v)

It's the location as much as the masala that keeps this old-timer bulging with happy customers. The menu mixes both Indian and Malay food and there are many vegie choices including a nice selection of fruit salads.

Dok Mai Trattoria ItalianaITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; mains 25,000-60,000K; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon; W)

Italian-owned, this little gem aims for culinary authenticity (there's no garlic bread, for example) with perfectly prepared pasta and eggplant parmigiana, plus a big selection of salads. And it all comes with a fantastic rock and roll soundtrack and garden seating in back.

BanlaoTHAI, LAOTIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; mains 20,000-80,000K; h10am-10pm)

One of several floating restaurants in Pakse, Banlao has a reliable menu of expected favourites but also many dishes you might not have encountered before, such as the seasonal ant egg gôy (gôy kài mót sòm – gôy is similar to láhp but with added blood) and a whole page of sticky rice dipping sauces (jaew) including eggplant and cricket. For the less adventurous there's mild, central-Thai papaya salad and grilled fish with herbs.

Le PanoramaLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; mains 30,000-85,000K; h4.30-10pm; Wv)

The rooftop restaurant of the Pakse Hotel serves up delicious Franco-Asian cuisine and unbeatable 360-degree city views. The menu includes duck breast, pizza and a succulent Ъah neung het hŏrm (stuffed fish steamed in banana leaves). It's a shame the service is downright dreadful.

7Shopping

Coffee from the Bolaven Plateau is the traditional souvenir from the region; pick up a bag at any cafe. Several shops in Champasak Shopping Centre (Champasak Plaza; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-7pm) and Talat Dao Heuang sell typical Lao skirts.

Pakse SouvenirsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; h8am-6pm)

The quality textiles and woven bamboo products here come mostly from northern Laos, but there is some southern stuff too. Unique to this shop are the owners' modern designs incorporating older textiles into bags, table runners and the like.

Dream WeaverARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; h8am-8pm)S

This small NGO-supported shop stocks, as the name suggests, mostly woven fabrics, but there are other souvenirs as well. Most of the products are made by trafficking victims and their families.

Monument BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 5; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)

This upmarket bookshop is your best stop for maps of Laos and her neighbours, plus postcards and a superb range of regional historical and cultural books.

8Information

Internet Access

Miss Noy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22272278; noy7days@hotmail.com; Rte 13; internet per hour 8000K; h8am-8pm) and SL Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 24; internet per hour 10,000K, bicycle 20,000K; h6.30am-9pm) have internet with good connections.

Medical Services

International Hitech Polyclinic (VIP Clinic; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214712; ihpc_lao@yahoo.com; cnr Th 1 & Th 10; h24hr) Adjacent to the public hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-252928; Th 10; h24hr), it has English-speaking staff and much higher standards of care, service and facilities, plus a pharmacy.

Money

Banks, such as the conveniently located BCEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 11; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) and Lao Development Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun), have the best currency-exchange rates, though the exchange counter at the Lankham Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-7pm) is good too. All three give cash advances (3% commission) on credit cards. LDB also has Western Union and can exchange US dollar travellers cheques (1%).

ATMs are plentiful in the city centre.

Post

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Th 8; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) A short walk from the tourist strip.

Telephone

Unitel ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Makes a convenient stop for a local SIM card if you are just arriving in Laos. Staff can set your smartphone up with 3G internet.

Tourist Information

Provincial Tourism Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212021; Th 11; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Mostly exists to hand out maps and brochures, but some staff can answer questions or help you make bookings for homestays and activities at Kiet Ngong, Don Kho and Don Daeng.

Miss Noy The gang here are clued in to the region, especially the Bolaven Plateau.

Visas

Pakse's immigration bureau ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th 10; h8-11am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) is at the main police station, in the tallest building. To extend your stay, bring a photocopy of your passport name page and visa, two photos, and 30,000K plus 20,000K per day. A minimum of three days and a maximum of 30 should be ready the next afternoon.

8Getting There & Away

Air

The Pakse International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13) is 2.5km northwest of the Souphanouvong Bridge. A tuk-tuk to/from the airport will cost about 40,000K.

Lao Airlines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212252; www.laoairlines.com; Pakse Airport; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Sat, 8am-7pm Sun) has direct flights to the following cities in Asia:

AVientiane 750,000K, two daily

ALuang Prabang 890,000K, three weekly

ASavannakhet 320,000K, four weekly

AAttapeu 520,000K, three weekly

ASiem Reap US$105, four weekly

AHo Chi Minh City US$110, two weekly

ABangkok US$125, four weekly

A cheaper way to fly to Bangkok is to travel overland to Ubon Ratchathani and catch a budget flight from there.

Boat

A tourist boat motors from Pakse to Champasak (one way per person 70,000K) at 8.30am, provided there are enough punters – in the low season there usually aren't. The return trip from Champasak is at 1.30pm. It's two hours downstream to Champasak, and a bit longer on the return. Book through any travel agent or call Mr Khamlao (%020-22705955; per boat US$80, per person for 10 people US$8).

Bus & Sŏrngtăaou

Pakse, frustratingly, has many bus and sŏrngtăaou (passenger truck) stations. The vast majority of tourists simply book bus journeys through their guesthouse or a travel agency, and since these are either special tourist buses that pick you up in the centre or include a free transfer to the relevant departure point, the prices are usually reasonable.

Note that on long-distance routes (Cambodia, Vietnam and Vientiane) you'll want to be careful which company you use: choosing the wrong one could cost you several hours and cause a lot of pain. Buy your ticket from a travel agency that actually knows the details of the route, rather than a guesthouse, which probably does not.

There are six main stations.

Southern Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13) Pakse's main bus station with departures to most places. Also known as khíw lot lák pąet (8km bus terminal) because it's 8km out of town on Rte 13.

Northern Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 13) This is usually called khíw lot lák jét (7km bus terminal); it's – you guessed it – 7km north of town. Only for northern destinations. The English-language signs on departures are frequently wrong.

Talat Dao Heuang (Morning Market; GOOGLE MAP ) Vans and sŏrngtăaou to nearby destinations, such as the Thai border, depart from a chaotic lot in the southeast corner of the market and also from Th 38 in front of the market.

2km Bus Station (Sengchalern Bus Station; GOOGLE MAP ; %031-212428; Rte 13) Also known as Sengchalern station after the company that owns it, the office is in the lobby of SL Hotel, which is in front of Friendship Mall.

King of Bus Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; 020-5501 2299; Th 11) Only serves night buses to Vientiane and towns along the way.

Kiang Kai Bus Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Th 38) This small, hard-to-find station, in a red-and-yellow building set back well off Th 38, is 1.5km past the Japanese bridge. It's used by buses to/from Thailand, though these also use the Southern Bus Terminal.

Vientiane & Points North

Most travellers prefer the comfortable 'VIP' night sleeper buses to Vientiane (170,000K, 10 hours). You can book these through your guesthouse or head to the King of Bus Terminal, from where there are several nightly departures, all leaving at 8.30pm; or the 2km Bus Station, with one departure at 8pm. It's possible to take these buses to Tha Khaek (130,000K, 4½ hours) and Seno (for Savannakhet; 120,000K, three hours).

If you prefer day travel, slower-moving ordinary air-con buses (110,000K, 12 to 14 hours) depart throughout the day from the Southern Bus Terminal, stopping to pick up more passengers at the 2km and Northern stations. These buses also go to Tha Khaek (40,000K, five hours) and Seno (60,000K, seven hours).

Bolaven Plateau & Points East

Transport to the Bolaven Plateau and points east consists of air-con buses from the Southern Bus Terminal and ordinary fan buses from the 2km Bus Station. The last departures to all cities are at 4pm, except for Sekong from the Southern Terminal, which is at 2.30pm. Buses to Salavan (fan/air-con 30,000/40,000K, three hours) can drop you at Tat Lo. Buses to Attapeu (fan/air-con 45,000/50,000K, 3½ to five hours) pass through Paksong (fan/air-con 15,000/20,000K, 90 minutes) and about half use the long route via Sekong (fan/air-con 35,000/40,000K, 3½ hours).

Champasak & Si Phan Don

Regular sŏrngtăaou leave Talat Dao Heuang for Champasak (20,000K, one hour) until noon or so – sometimes even as late as 2pm. There's also a morning tourist bus-boat combo to Champasak (55,000K, 1½ hours) offered by most travel agencies. Be sure your ticket includes the boat crossing from Ban Muang. The regular price for the boat is 10,000K per person or 30,000K if you're alone.

For Si Phan Don, tourist buses and minivans – including pick-ups in town and boat transfer to Don Khong (70,000K, 2½ hours), Don Det (70,000K, three hours) and Don Khon (75,000K, 3¼ hours) – are most comfortable and convenient. Book these through any guesthouse or travel agent. All departures are in the morning around 8am. Note that prices fluctuate considerably on these trips over time, and also sometimes even on the north- and southbound journeys due to attempts at price fixing.

If you want to leave later in the day, take a sŏrngtăaou from the Southern Bus Terminal to Ban Nakasang (for Don Det and Don Khon; 40,000K, 3½ hours). These depart hourly until 5pm and go via Hat Xai Khun (for Don Khong).

One sŏrngtăaou services Kiet Ngong (30,000K, two hours), leaving at 11am.

Neighbouring Countries

Travelling to Cambodia is a guaranteed hassle, while entering Thailand is a breeze. Travelling to Vietnam falls in between.

The most comfortable way to Hue (200,000K, 12 hours) and Danang (220,000K, 14 hours) in Vietnam is to catch a morning sleeper bus from the Southern Bus Terminal, which for legal reasons use the long route through the Lao Bao border east of Savannakhet. Note that these do not go every day – sometimes a regular bus goes instead and sometimes there is simply no bus. Up to three hours faster for the same price are the modern, comfortable minibuses that go via Salavan and use the Lalay border, through the drivers tend to be reckless. Then there are the slower and truly crappy cargo buses that only save a few of their seats for passengers. These make for a very uncomfortable and much longer journey. If there is no large bus, some unscrupulous travel agencies will book passengers on these buses without telling them, so be sure you know what vehicle your ticket is really for. For Kom Tun or Ho Chi Minh City you travel via the Bo Y border. Some travel agencies sell direct buses to Ho Chi Minh City (450,000K, 15 hours), but these go via the southern route so you need to buy a Cambodian visa. It takes several hours longer, but is actually much cheaper to travel to Kom Tum and take a connecting bus (240,000d) from there.

GETTING TO THAILAND: VANG TAO TO CHONG MEK

Getting to the border Other than finding the right counters to use at immigration, crossing at the Vang Tao (Laos)/Chong Mek (Thailand) border (open 6am to 8pm) is straightforward.

The easiest way to get there is on the Thai-Lao International Bus (50,000K, 2½ to three hours, 8.30am and 3pm) between Pakse's Southern Bus Terminal and Ubon Ratchathani's bus station. It picks up more passengers at the little Kiang Kai Bus Station on the way. If you're travelling to Pakse (departures from Ubon at 9.30am and 3pm) note that this bus does wait long enough for people to get Lao visas.

There are also frequent minivans from Pakse to Vang Tao (25,000K, 45 minutes) departing from the street in front of Talat Dao Heuang market and also sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) leaving from inside the market until about 4pm. Vans to Vang Tao also depart hourly from the Southern Bus Terminal. You'll be dropped off in a dusty/muddy parking area about 500m from the Lao immigration office.

If you are headed to Bangkok (225,000K, 14 hours), a direct service (that sometimes involves changing buses at Ubon) departs the Southern Bus Terminal daily at 4pm. Pakse travel agents also offer a combination bus/sleeper train ticket to the Thai capital with prices starting at 290,000K for 2nd-class fan carriages and going much higher for better service.

At the border Laos issues visas on arrival (around US$35, depending on which passport you hold), while on the Thai side most nationalities are issued 15-day visa waivers free of charge; residents of the G7 countries get 30 days. You walk between the two countries using a pointless underground tunnel for part of the way.

Although it seems like a scam, there is a legitimate overtime fee on the Laos side after 4pm weekdays and all day on weekends and holidays. The real scam is that the officials demand 100B even though the actual price is 10,000K. Just tell them you want a receipt and you'll pay the correct price.

Moving on Minivans head to Ubon (100B, 1¼ hours, every 30 minutes) from Chong Mek's bus terminal, which is 600m (20B by motorcycle taxi) up the main road. Alternatively, informal taxi drivers hang around immigration and charge 1000B to anywhere in Ubon Ratchathani city.

8Getting Around

Bicycle

Cycling around to the city's few sites can make for a pleasant few hours. SL Travel and Miss Noy hire bikes (15,000K to 20,000K).

Car & Motorcycle

Several shops and guesthouses in the tourist belt along Rte 13 rent motorbikes from 50,000K per day for 100cc bikes, rising to 100,000K for an automatic Honda Scoopy. Safe bets are Miss Noy, which has a nightly planning meeting for those heading to the Bolaven Plateau, and Pakse Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22277277; Rte 13; h7.30am-8.30pm).

Talk to any travel agency or hotel about hiring a car with driver, which should cost about 400,000K (plus fuel) depending on where you want to go. Avis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-214946; www.avis.la; Th 10; per day from US$58; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) rents out vehicles – from compacts to SUVs – with or without drivers and can provide paperwork to allow the cars to go to neighbouring countries.

Local Transport

Local transport in Pakse is expensive by regional standards. Figure on about 10,000K for a short săhm-lór (three-wheels) trip (including between Talat Dao Heuang and the city centre) if you're one person – more if you're in a group or use a tuk-tuk. A ride to the Northern or Southern Bus Terminal costs 15,000K per person shared and 50,000K for a whole tuk-tuk.

Around Pakse

Don Kho & Ban Saphai

The Mekong-hugging Ban Saphai (Saphai Village; ບ້ານສະພາຍ) and adjacent island of Don Kho (ດອນໂຄ) just north of Pakse are famous for their weaving. Women work on large looms underneath their homes producing silk (both real and artificial) and cotton dresses and other products, and are happy to show you how. While this is a well-known destination, it's not overrun. The rarely visited Ban Don Khoh (Don Khoh Village; ບ້ານດອນເຂາະ), not far away, does stone carving. These three destinations combine for a good half-day trip out of Pakse and cultural explorers can dig deeper with a night at Don Kho's homestay.

Don Kho ດອນໂຄ

There are no cars and hardly any motorcycles on this 450m-wide island and, despite the advent of electricity, it's easy to feel like you're stepping back to a simpler time. The 350 residents live along both shores on the island's northern half and farm rice in the centre. There are no traditional tourist sites on the island, though the women weaving silk under their homes welcome drop-in visitors.

Wat Silattana Satsadalam (aka Wat Don Kho) has a manuscript hall mixing Lao and French style and a giant tree that locals dubiously claim is 500 years old. For about half the year you can walk out to some beaches and for 50,000K boatmen will take you out for a fishing trip. The 'traditional twin roof house' shown on the map at the landing is gone and it will take some bushwhacking to find the traces of the old village and the cemetery in the mostly forested southern half of the island; and if you do find them, the pay-off is very small.

Though it's small enough to walk, there are bikes (20,000K per day) for hire. Turn left from the landing and ask at the little administration centre where you can also arrange a village homestay (per person 30,000K, per meal 20,000K).

Believe it or not, Don Kho was briefly the capital of southern Laos following the French arrival in the 1890s. It served as a mooring point for boats steaming the Mekong River between Don Det and Savannakhet.

Ban Saphai ບ້ານສະພາຍ

First stop in this weaving village should be the Ban Saphai Handicraft Centre (h6am-7pm) next to the boat pier. Several weavers have their looms here and locally woven textiles and other crafts are on sale. Also, you aren't just welcomed, you're openly encouraged to visit women weaving at their homes elsewhere in the village. A map posted outside the Handicraft Centre leads you on a short walking tour to some weaving houses, an old school building at the temple, and the local market.

Ban Don Khoh ບ້ານດອນເຂາະ

Not to be confused with single-'H' Don Kho island to the north, little-known Ban Don Khoh (rhymes with 'law') is home to dozens of stone-carvers who mostly make Buddha images. Some basic work is done with power tools, but most of the carving is still done with hammer and chisel. They work all day every day, except when there's a ceremony at the temple or a big muay thai fight on TV.

The workshops are in front of Wat Chompet, which has a 30m-tall Buddha image on its grounds. Ban Don Khoh proper is bit to the west along the Mekong River; so this carving community is also known as Ban Chomphet.

8Information

Some people at the Ban Saphai Handicraft Centre can speak some English. They will call to arrange your homestay and/or activities on Don Kho.

The Provincial Tourism Office in Pakse can do the same.

8Getting There & Away

Ban Saphai is 16km north of Pakse's Souphanouvong Bridge and the turn-off is clearly signed. Sŏrngtăaou from Pakse to Ban Saphai (20,000K, 45 minutes) leave fairly regularly from the street in front of the Talat Dao Heung gate.

From Ban Saphai to Don Kho, longtail boats cost 40,000K round trip and can hold up to five people. Set a time for pick-up, or take the boatman's phone number and call when you want to return.

Ban Don Khoh is between Pakse and Ban Saphai, 9km from the Souphanouvong Bridge. The turn is unmarked, but it's the paved road going west just before the bus station.

Phou Xieng Thong NPA ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດພູຊຽງທອງ

Spread over 1200 sq km in Champasak and Salavan Provinces, Phu Xieng Thong NPA (ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດພູຊຽງທອງ ) is most accessible about 50km upriver from Pakse. The area has a sometimes other-worldly beauty with oddly eroded outcroppings and exposed sandstone ridges, some of which contain prehistoric paintings. Most of the big wildlife has been eradicated by hunting, but there are still lots of birds, including significant concentrations of green peafowl, and a diversity of wild orchids.

The typical trip, available December to June, through Green Discovery for US$132 per person (in a group of four or more), begins in the Mekong River village of Ban Mai Singsamphan, where you will do a homestay between two days of moderately challenging trekking. A highlight is the sunset view from the top of Phu Khong (Khong Mountain). The return trip to Pakse includes a boat trip on the Mekong.

Independent travellers are pretty much out of luck since Pakse's Provincial Tourism Office no longer arranges trips here and none of the local guides speak much English. If you get yourself to Ban Mai Singsamphan you can make it happen.

Champasak ຈຳປາສັກ

Pop 14,000 / %030

It's hard to imagine Champasak (ຈຳປາສັກ) as a seat of royalty, but from 1713 until until 1946 it was just that. These days the town is a somnolent place, the fountain circle (that no longer hosts a fountain) in the middle of the main street alluding to a grandeur long since departed, along with the former royal family. Scattered French colonial-era buildings share space with traditional Lao wooden stilt houses, and the few vehicles that venture down the narrow main street share it with chickens and cows.

With a surprisingly good range of accommodation and several attractions in the vicinity – most notably the Angkor-period ruins of Wat Phu Champasak – it's easy to see why many visitors to the region prefer staying in Champasak over bustling Pakse.

Just about everything in Champasak is spread along the riverside road, both sides of the fountain circle.

Champasak

1Top Sights

1Shadow Puppet Theatre & Cinéma TuktukB2

4Sleeping

2Dokchampa GuesthouseB1

3Khamphouy GuesthouseA2

4Saythong GuesthouseB2

5Eating

5Champasak with LoveB1

8Information

6Champasak District Visitor Information CentreB2

7Lao Development BankA2

1Sights & Activities

oShadow Puppet Theatre & Cinéma TuktukTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cinema-tuktuk.org; 50,000K; h8.30-10pm Oct to Apr, shadow puppets Tue & Fri, movie Wed & Sat)

Run by Frenchman Yves Bernard, this magical theatre next to the tourist office tells the story of the epic Ramayana using the ancient art of shadow puppets. On Wednesday and Saturday nights it screens the enchanting, Academy Award–nominated silent film Chang (1927), filmed over 18 months in the jungles of northeast Thailand by the writer and director of Hollywood's original King Kong. What makes it so great is the presence of live musicians providing the soundtrack.

Wat Muang KangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(ວັດເມືອງກາງ, Wat Phuthawanaram MAP GOOGLE MAP )

About 5km south of town along the Mekong stands the oldest active temple in Champasak, and arguably the most interesting in southern Laos. The soaring Thai-style ubosot (ordination hall), with its red-tiled roof and ring of pillars, will be the first thing to catch your eye, but up close the star is the hǎw tąi (Tripitaka library), which combines elements of Lao, Chinese, Vietnamese and French-colonial architecture.

The damaged, but still beautiful, tower supposedly holds Buddha images and, if you ask some locals, it has another magical purpose: in the middle of the night, a mystic light beam comes from across the river, bounces through a kâew (crystal) and alights atop Sri Lingaparvata, the holy mountain above Wat Phu Champasak.

Almost all families in Muang Kang village weave bamboo sticky rice and various other baskets.

It's easy enough to reach Wat Muang Kang: head out of Champasak on the riverside road and continue south on the dirt road where the main road turns towards Wat Phu. Coming back, if you're on a bike or motorcycle, you can follow the pleasant narrow path directly on the riverfront for part of the way.

Champasak SpaSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56499739; www.champasak-spa.com; massages 90,000-160,000K; h10am-noon & 1-7pm, closed Mon Apr-Oct, all of Jun)S

Run by Nathalie, this is a fragrant oasis of free tea and sensitively executed treatments using locally grown and sourced organic bio products. And it creates jobs for local women. The spa also offers yoga and free morning meditation sessions (you must book ahead). A full-day spa package (reservations required) comprising facial, body scrub, hair spa, massage and lunch costs 550,000K.

FORMER PALACES

The two standout white buildings 300m south of the fountain circle are Champasak's most enduring reminders of its distant glory. The large 1952 building was the palace of Chao Boun Oum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (the king's younger brother) while one street over is Chao Ratsadanai's residence ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a faded 1926 French Colonial palace for his father. Distant relatives of the king still own them today.

4Sleeping

Dokchampa GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55350910; r with fan/air-con 50,000/200,000K; aW)

Porches in front of all rooms, a well-placed restaurant along the river, a helpful English-speaking owner and a good mellow vibe make this one of Champasak's best choices. The fan rooms are typical, though we have no clue what they were thinking when building glass-walled bathrooms in the recently renovated air-con rooms. There are big discounts in the low season.

Saythong GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22206215; bobbychampa@yahoo.com; r with fan/air-con 50,000/120,000K; aW)

One of the first guesthouses in town, this friendly place has received a remodel and is now very good value. The restaurant occupies a pleasant perch over the Mekong.

Anouxa GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-511006; r with fan 60,000K, with air-con 100,000-200,000K; aW)

Set amid tall trees (some of them holding hammocks) and trilling birdsong a bit north of the action, Anouxa has ageing but good rooms with private bathroom, mosquito nets, Hmong tapestries and balconies. The air-con rooms have porches looking out to the river and the best room is perched out almost directly over the water. There's also a good riverside restaurant, and bike and motorcycle hire.

oInthira Champasak HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-511011; www.inthira.com; r incl breakfast US$44-71; naW)

The belle of the river, Inthira's 14 rooms are a mix of old and new, but all ooze charm and induce relaxation. And all have little touches of luxury – wooden floors, ambient lighting, flat-screen TVs, safes and rain showers – that set them apart from the in-town competition.

oRiver ResortRESORT$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56850198; www.theriverresortlaos.com; garden villas US$120-130, riverview villas US$160-170; naWs)

The 15 duplex villas (12 riverfront and three set back along a pond and rice paddies) are outfitted with gargantuan beds, indigenous wall hangings, indoor-outdoor showers, and big balconies with five-star views. It has a pair of pools, Thai and Lao massage, a beautiful restaurant, and runs upscale excursions by boat (the sunset trip is fantastic) and other means.

5Eating

Nakorn RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 20,000-52,000K; h7.30am-9.30pm; Wv)

This Lao-Belgian owned spot on the river a tad south of Inthira is a pleasant melange of classy and casual. The small mixed menu covers duck láhp to chicken green curry to tuna sandwiches, and there is plenty of good local advice available. Guest rooms are on the way.

Champasak with LoveTHAI, LAOTIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9786757; mains 20,000-40,000K; h9am-10pm; Wv)

The marvellous riverfront patio shaded by a big old ficus tree is alone worth a visit, but the food and service are also good. It has the biggest menu in town, with mostly Thai food but also Lao standards and good brownies, fruit salad, sandwiches and breakfasts. The basic and way-overpriced guestrooms (r with fan/air-con 60,000/100,000K) in the creaky old house have shared bathrooms.

Inthira Hotel RestaurantLAOTIAN, INTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-65,000K; h7am-10pm; Wv)

Inthira's sumptuous low-lit restaurant offers a compelling reason to linger longer in Champasak. Based in a beautifully renovated Chinese shophouse, the menu spans mushroom láhp to its creative yellow curry pizza.

8Information

Internet Access

Internet & Copy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per min 250K; h7am-6pm) About 150m south of the Inthira Hotel.

Money

Lao Development Bank ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM, changes cash and does Western Union.

Tourist Information

Champasak District Visitor Information Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-97404986; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, also open weekends Sep-Apr) Can arrange boats to, and accommodation on, Don Daeng. Local guides, some of whom speak English, lead day walks around Wat Phu and can accompany you to Uo Moung. You can also arrange boats to Uo Moung here (400,000K), taking in Don Daeng and Wat Muang Kang.

8Getting There & Away

Champasak is 30km from Pakse along a beautiful, almost empty sealed road running along the west bank of the Mekong. Sŏrngtăaou to Pakse (20,000K, one hour) depart only in the morning, up to around 8am. There are also the tourist buses and boats direct to/from Pakse, but they don't run often due to lack of demand.

The regular morning tourist buses from Pakse to Champasak (55,000, 1½ hours) are actually the buses heading to Si Phan Don and these drop you at Ban Muang on the eastern bank of the Mekong where a small ferry (10,000K per person, 20,000K for motorbikes) crosses to the village of Ban Phaphin just north of Champasak. Be sure you know whether your ticket includes the ferry or not. (The ferrymen won't rip you off over this, but some of the ticket agents in Pakse have been known to.) None of the tickets include the final 2km into Champasak, so you'll probably need to walk it.

To reach Si Phan Don, you can also use the Ban Muang ferry route, take a direct morning minibus (70,000K, three hours) if there are enough passengers, or travel by boat. The later costs US$200 private, but the Champasak District Visitor Information Centre will know if others are interested in sharing the cost.

8Getting Around

All guesthouses rent bicycles (10,000K to 20,000K per day) and a few, including Vong Paseud ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %031-920038; r with fan 30,000-50,000K, air-con 100,000K; aW) and Khamphouy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9995866; r with fan 50,000-60,000K, with air-con 120,000K; aW), also have motorbikes (from 70,000K).

MUANG KAO ເມືອງເກົ່າ

Under the palm trees and rice paddies 3km east of Champasak town are the remains of a city that was, about 1500 years ago, the capital of the Mon-Khmer Chenla kingdom. The site is known today as Muang Kao (ເມືອງເກົ່າ MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (Old City), but scholars believe it was called Shrestapura.

Aerial photographs show the remains of a rectangular city measuring 2.3km by 1.8km, surrounded by double earthen walls on three sides and protected on the east by the Mekong River. Other traces of the old city include small baray (a Khmer word meaning 'artificial body of water'), the foundations for circular brick monuments, evidence of an advanced system of irrigation, various Hindu statuary and stone carvings, stone implements and ceramics. The sum of all this is an extremely rare example of an ancient urban settlement in Southeast Asia, one whose design reveals how important religious belief was in the workings of everyday life.

The origin of the city remained a mystery until Southeast Asia's oldest Sanskrit inscription was discovered here. The 5th-century stele stated the city was founded by King Devanika and was then called Kuruksetra and also mentions the auspicious Sri Lingaparvata nearby, a clear reference to the mountain near Wat Phu Champasak. 'Honoured since antiquity', the mountain was believed to be the residence or the manifestation of the Hindu god Shiva, and even today local people honour the mountain as the place of Phi Intha (the soul or protecting spirit of the mountain).

By the end of the 5th century the city was thriving. It continued as a major regional centre until at least the 7th century, as shown by two Nandi (Shiva's bull mount) pedestal sculptures discovered in 1994–95 bearing inscriptions by King Citrasena-Mahendravarman, the 'conqueror' who later shifted the kingdom's capital to Sambor Prei Kuk in central Cambodia. Archaeological material suggests the city was inhabited until the 16th century.

Ongoing research by Dr Patrizia Zolese and her team has revealed that a second city was built near Wat Phu after the 9th century. She believes the Hong Nang Sida (ໂຮງນາງສີດາ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-4.30pm) was at the centre of this city, which was probably Lingapura, a place mentioned in many ancient inscriptions but which has not been categorically identified by modern scholars.