Diana Jarvis/Rough Guides
SIKA DEER, ISLE OF PURBECK, DORSET
The distant past is perhaps more tangible in Hampshire (often abbreviated to “Hants”), Dorset and Wiltshire than in any other part of England. Predominantly rural, these three counties overlap substantially with the ancient kingdom of Wessex, whose most famous ruler, Alfred, repulsed the Danes in the ninth century and came close to establishing the first unified state in England. And even before Wessex came into being, many earlier civilizations had left their stamp on the region. The chalky uplands of Wiltshire boast several of Europe’s greatest Neolithic sites, including Stonehenge and Avebury, while in Dorset you’ll find Maiden Castle, the most striking Iron Age hillfort in the country, and the Cerne Abbas Giant, source of many a legend.
The Romans tramped all over these southern counties, leaving the most conspicuous signs of their occupation at the amphitheatre of Dorchester – though that town is more closely associated with Thomas Hardy and his vision of Wessex. None of the landscapes of this region are grand or wild, but the countryside is consistently seductive, not least the crumbling fossil-bearing cliffs around Lyme Regis, the managed woodlands of the New Forest and the gentle, open curves of Salisbury Plain. The area’s historic towns such as Sherborne, Shaftesbury and Bridport are generally modest and slow-paced, with the notable exceptions of the two major maritime bases of Portsmouth and Southampton, a fair proportion of whose visitors are simply passing through on their way to the more genteel pleasures of the Isle of Wight. The two great cathedral cities in these parts, Salisbury and Winchester, and the seaside resorts of Bournemouth and Weymouth see most tourist traffic, while the great houses of Wilton, Stourhead, Longleat and Kingston Lacy also attract the crowds. You don’t have to wander far off the beaten track, however, to find attractive villages such as Lacock and the appealing town of Bradford-upon-Avon – and, of course, some of the region’s most dramatic coastal scenery around the Isle of Purbeck.
Britain’s foremost naval station, PORTSMOUTH occupies the bulbous peninsula of Portsea Island, on the eastern flank of a huge, easily defended harbour. Billing itself as Britain’s only island city, it is also its most densely populated, with over 15,000 people per square mile. The ancient Romans raised a fortress on the northernmost edge of this inlet, but the strategic location wasn’t fully exploited until Tudor times, when Henry VII established the world’s first dry dock here and made Portsmouth a royal dockyard. It has flourished ever since and nowadays Portsmouth is a large industrialized city, its harbour clogged with naval frigates, ferries bound for the continent or the Isle of Wight, and swarms of tugs.
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DURDLE DOOR, DORSET
Osborne House Wander around the stunning gardens and get an insight into royal family life at Queen Victoria’s former seaside home.
The New Forest William the Conqueror’s old hunting ground, home to wild ponies and deer, is ideal for walking, biking and riding.
Sea kayaking in Studland View the rugged Old Harry Rocks up close on a guided kayak tour through sea arches and below towering chalk cliffs.
Durdle Door Famous natural arch at the end of a splendid beach, accessed by a steep cliff path – a great place for walkers and swimmers alike.
Seaside Boarding House, Burton Bradstock Down a Daiquiri on the terrace while watching the sun set over this stunning stretch of coast.
Lyme Regis Enjoy one of the most historic and picturesque villages on the south coast.
Stonehenge Marvel at one of Britain’s most iconic sites, which is now much enhanced by an informative, environmentally friendly visitor centre.
HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP
Due to its military importance, Portsmouth was heavily bombed during World War II, and bland tower blocks now give the city an ugly profile. Only Old Portsmouth, around the original harbour, preserves some Georgian and a little Tudor character. East of here is Southsea, an attractive suburb of terraces facing a large common and a shingle beach.
Victory Gate, HM Naval Base, PO1 3LJ • Daily: April–Oct 10am–5.30pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; last entry 1hr before closing • All-inclusive ticket £35, under-16s £15 (online £28/£12); individual attraction tickets £18; all tickets valid for one year • 
023 9283 9766, 
historicdockyard.co.uk
For most visitors, a trip to Portsmouth begins and ends at the Historic Dockyard, in the Royal Naval Base at the end of Queen Street. The complex comprises three ships and several museums. In addition, the Dockyard Apprentice exhibition gives insights into the working of the docks in the early twentieth century, while Action Stations provides interactive activities and simulators, plus the UK’s tallest indoor climbing tower.
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard’s youngest ship, HMS Warrior, dates from 1860. It was Britain’s first armoured (iron-clad) battleship, complete with sails and steam engines. The ship displays a wealth of weaponry, including rifles, pistols and sabres, though the Warrior was never challenged nor even fired a cannon in her 22 years at sea.
The impressive Mary Rose Museum was built around Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose, and houses not only the ship itself, but also thousands of objects retrieved from the wreck, including guns, gold and the crew’s personal effects. The ship capsized before the king’s eyes off Spithead in 1545 while engaging French intruders, sinking with almost all her seven-hundred-strong crew. In 1982 a massive conservation project raised the remains of the hull, which silt had preserved beneath the seabed, and you can now view the world’s only remaining sixteenth-century warship through protective glass windows.
Currently undergoing restoration (though still open to the public), HMS Victory was already forty years old when she set sail from Portsmouth for Trafalgar on September 14, 1805, returning in triumph three months later, but bearing the corpse of Admiral Nelson. Shot at the height of the battle, Nelson expired three hours later, having been assured that victory was in sight. A plaque on the deck marks the spot where Nelson was fatally wounded and you can also see the wooden cask in which his body was preserved in brandy for the return trip to Britain. Although badly damaged in the battle, the Victory continued in service for a further twenty years, before being retired to the dry dock where she rests today.
Opposite the Victory, various buildings house the exhaustive National Museum of the Royal Navy. Tracing naval history from Alfred the Great’s fleet to the present day, the collection includes some jolly figureheads, Nelson memorabilia, including the only surviving sail from HMS Victory, and nautical models, though there’s scant coverage of more recent conflicts. The Trafalgar Experience is a noisy, vivid re-creation of the battle itself, with gory bits to thrill the kids.
Haslar Jetty, Gosport, PO12 2AS • Daily: April–Oct 10am–5.30pm; Nov–March Wed–Sun 10am–4.30pm (daily in school hols); last HMS Alliance tour 1hr before closing • £13.50 • 023 9251 0354, submarine-museum.co.uk
Portsmouth’s naval theme persists throughout otherwise humdrum Gosport, where the Royal Navy Submarine Museum displays, unsurprisingly, submarines – four in total, some of which you can enter. Allow a good couple of hours to explore these slightly creepy vessels – a guided tour inside HMS Alliance (the only remaining World War II-era submarine) gives you a gloomy insight into how cramped life on board would have been, and the museum elaborates evocatively on the history of submersible craft.
BOATS TO GOSPORT
Gosport can be reached on the passenger ferry from Harbour train station jetty between the historic dockyard and Gunwharf Quays (daily 5.30am–midnight every 10–15min; 5min; £3.40 return; 023 9252 4551, gosportferry.co.uk). If you have an all-inclusive ticket for Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, you can take the hourly Waterbus shuttle (Nov–March Sat & Sun 10.15am–4.15pm) between the Historic Dockyard, Gunwharf Quays, the Submarine Museum and Explosion!
Priddy’s Hard, Gosport, PO12 4LE • April–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–March Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; last entry 1hr before closing • £10.80 • 023 9250 5600, explosion.org.uk
Near the Royal Submarine Museum, housed in an old armaments depot, Explosion! tells the story of naval warfare from the days of gunpowder to the present, with weapons of all descriptions, including mines, big guns and torpedoes, all backed up by vivid computer animations.
Gunwharf Quays, PO1 3TT • Daily 10am–5.30pm; open from 9.30am in the school summer hols • £10.50, or £8.90 online • 023 9285 7520, www.spinnakertower.co.uk
From Portsmouth Harbour train station, it’s a short walk along the historic waterfront to the sleek modern Gunwharf Quays development, where you’ll find a multitude of cafés, restaurants, nightspots and shops. Here you’ll find Spinnaker Tower, an elegant, 557ft-high sail-like structure, offering views of up to twenty miles over land and sea. Its three viewing decks can be reached by a high-speed lift, the highest one being open to the elements, though most people stick to View Deck 1, which has one of Europe’s largest glass floors.
It’s a well-signposted fifteen-minute walk south of Gunwharf Quays to what remains of Old Portsmouth. Along the way, you pass the simple Cathedral of St Thomas on the High Street (portsmouthcathedral.org.uk), whose original twelfth-century features have been obscured by rebuilding after the Civil War and again in the twentieth century. The High Street ends at a maze of cobbled Georgian streets huddling behind a fifteenth-century wall protecting the Camber, or old port, where Walter Raleigh landed the first potatoes and tobacco from the New World. Nearby, the Round and Square towers are popular vantage points for observing the comings and goings of the boats.
Clarence Esplanade, Southsea, PO5 3NT • Daily: April–Sept 10am–5.30pm; Oct–March 10am–5pm; last entry 30min before closing • £6.80 • 023 9282 6722, ddaymuseum.co.uk
Located in the suburb of Southsea, southeast of Old Portsmouth, the D-Day Museum focuses on Portsmouth’s role as the principal assembly point for the Normandy beach landings in World War II, code-named “Operation Overlord”. The most striking exhibit is the 295ft-long Overlord Embroidery, a sort of twentieth-century Bayeux Tapestry, which took five years to complete. The museum was undergoing substantial refurbishment at the time of going to press, so check the website for the latest details.
Clarence Esplanade, Southsea, PO5 3PA • March–Oct Tues–Sun & bank hols 10am–5pm • Free • 023 9282 6722, southseacastle.co.uk
Next door to the D-Day Museum, Southsea’s most historic building, marked by a little lighthouse, is the squat Southsea Castle, built from the remains of Beaulieu Abbey. You can go inside the keep and learn about Portsmouth’s military history, and can climb up to the spot from where Henry VIII is said to have watched the Mary Rose sink in 1545. There’s also an appealing café inside the castle walls and courtyard.
393 Old Commercial Rd, PO1 4QL • April–Sept Fri–Sun 10am–5.30pm, last entry 5pm • £4.20, free for Portsmouth residents • 023 9282 7261, charlesdickensbirthplace.co.uk
Just over a mile northeast of Old Portsmouth, Charles Dickens’ Birthplace is set up to look much as it would have when the famous novelist was born here in 1812. Charles’s father, John, moved to Portsmouth in 1809 to work for the Navy Pay Office before he was recalled to London in 1815, so Charles only lived here for three years, but nevertheless he is said to have returned often and set parts of Nicholas Nickleby in the city. The modest house not only contains period furniture (including the couch on which he died) but also a wealth of information about the time when Dickens lived here.
Church Rd, Portchester, PO16 9QW • April–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–March Sat & Sun (daily in Feb half term) 10am–4pm • £6.20; EH • 02392 378291, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/portchester-castle • Bus #3 stops a quarter of a mile from the castle and Portchester train station is a mile away
Six miles northwest of the centre, just past the marina development, Portchester Castle was built by the Romans in the third century, and boasts the finest surviving example of Roman walls in northern Europe – still over 20ft high and incorporating twenty bastions. The Normans felt no need to make substantial alterations when they moved in, but Henry II later built a keep within Portchester’s precincts, which Richard II extended and Henry V used as his garrison when assembling the army that was to fight the Battle of Agincourt.
Arrival and information Portsmouth and around
By train Portsmouth’s main station is in the city centre, but the line continues to Harbour Station, the most convenient stop for the dockyard sights and old town.
Destinations Brighton (every 30min; 1hr 20min–1hr 30min); London Waterloo (every 15–20min; 1hr 35min–2hr 15min); Salisbury (hourly; 1hr 15min); Southampton (every 20min; 45min–1hr); Winchester (hourly; 1hr).
By bus National Express buses stop at The Hard Interchange, right by Harbour Station.
Destinations London Victoria (hourly; 1hr 50min–2hr 30min); Southampton (hourly; 40min–1hr).
By ferry Wightlink passenger catamarans leave from the jetty at Harbour Station for Ryde, while car ferries depart from the ferry port off Gunwharf Rd, just south of Gunwharf Quays, for Fishbourne. Hovercraft link Southsea with Ryde, while ferries run regularly from the Harbour Station to Gosport, on the other side of Portsmouth Harbour.
Tourist offices There are two tourist offices in Portsmouth (023 9282 6722, visitportsmouth.co.uk), one in the City Museum, 2 Museum Rd (daily 10am–5.30pm), the other in the D-Day Museum.
Florence House 2 Malvern Rd, Southsea, PO5 2NA 023 9200 9111, florencehousehotel.co.uk; map. Tasteful boutique B&B in an Edwardian townhouse with a range of rooms over three floors, all spick and span and with flatscreen TVs. There’s a tiny downstairs bar and communal lounge, and parking permits can be provided. If it’s full, check out the other boutique-style hotels in the area run by the same group (the Mercer Collection). £95
Fortitude Cottage 51 Broad Street, PO1 2JD 023 9282 3748, fortitudecottage.co.uk; map. Stylish B&B in Portsmouth Old Town overlooking the ferry terminal and Gunwharf Quays. The top-floor room has its own roof terrace with fantastic views, and three others have harbour views (though not all do). Free parking. £170
Sailmaker’s Loft 5 Bath Square, PO1 2JL 023 9282 3045, sailmakersloft.org.uk; map. Recently renovated, this modern B&B is set just back from the waterfront, right opposite The Still pub, with top-floor rooms overlooking the water. Most rooms have their own bathroom. £70
Abarbistro58 White Hart Rd, PO1 2JA 023 9281 1585, abarbistro.co.uk; map. Lively bar/restaurant with an outside terrace on the edge of Old Portsmouth. The menu features popular classics such as pork belly (£16.50) and steaks (£22.50), plus daily-changing fish specials. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun noon–10pm.
Pie and Vinyl 61 Castle Road, Southsea, P05 3AY 023 9275 3914 pieandvinyl.co.uk; map. Part café, part hip shop selling – as the name suggests – records and pies. It’s a great space for browsing and chilling, with a wide range of tasty pies on offer (from £6; extra for mash, peas and gravy) – there are also vegan options. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–5pm.
The Still and West 2 Bath Square, Old Portsmouth, PO1 2JL 023 9282 1567, stillandwest.co.uk; map. A waterfront terrace and cosy interior with harbour views make this pub worth stopping by. Food ranges from fish and chips (£13.50) to thyme-roasted chicken (£14). Mon–Sat 9.30am–11pm, Sun 9.30am–10.30pm; kitchen Mon–Fri noon–9pm, Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–8pm.
A glance at the map gives some idea of the strategic maritime importance of SOUTHAMPTON, which stands on a triangular peninsula formed at the place where the rivers Itchen and Test flow into Southampton Water, an eight-mile inlet from the Solent. Sure enough, Southampton has figured in numerous stirring events: it witnessed the exodus of Henry V’s Agincourt-bound army, the Pilgrim Fathers’ departure in the Mayflower in 1620 and the maiden voyages of such ships as the Queen Mary and the Titanic. Despite its pummelling by the Luftwaffe and some disastrous postwar urban sprawl, the thousand-year-old city has retained some of its medieval charm in parts and has reinvented itself as a twenty-first-century shopping centre in others, with the giant glass-and-steel West Quay as its focus. A short stroll north of here, Southampton’s new Cultural Quarter is worth a visit, with its open squares, excellent art gallery and superb Sea City Museum.
Civic Centre, Commercial Rd • Mon–Fri 10am–3pm, Sat 10am–5pm • Free • 02380 833007, southamptoncityartgallery.com
Core of the modern town is the Civic Centre, a short walk east of the train station and home to the excellent City Art Gallery. Though not always on show at the same time, its collection is particularly strong on contemporary British artists, with works by Gilbert and George, Chris Ofili and Lucian Freud. You can also see works by older masters: Gainsborough, Joshua Reynolds and the Impressionists – Monet and Pissarro included.
Civic Centre, Havelock Rd, SO14 7FY • Daily 10am–5pm • £8.50, joint ticket with Tudor House £12 • 02380 833007, seacitymuseum.co.uk
The purpose-built Sea City Museum is a triumph of design that succeeds in being both moving and fun. Opened on April 10, 2012, the hundredth anniversary of the day that the Titanic sailed from Southampton’s Town Quay on its maiden voyage, the museum provides a fascinating insight into the history of the ship, its crew, its significance to Edwardian Southampton and, of course, its fateful journey, which started in high excitement and ended only four days later in tragedy. Impressive interactive displays give you the chance to steer the Titanic around the icebergs, while re-creations of a second-class cabin and the boiler room allow you to imagine life as both crew and passenger. Interviews with survivors of the disaster are particularly moving, with tales of children being put into hessian sacks and hauled up from the lifeboats onto the rescue ship, the Carpathia.
Arrival and information Southampton
By train Southampton’s central station is in Blechynden Terrace, west of the Civic Centre.
Destinations Bournemouth (every 15–20min; 30min–1hr 10 min); London Waterloo (every 15–20min; 1hr 20min–1hr 35min); Portsmouth (every 20min; 45min–1hr); Salisbury (every 30min; 30–40min); Weymouth (every 30min; 1hr 20min–1hr 40min); Winchester (every 15min; 15–30min).
By bus National Express buses run from the coach station on Harbour Parade.
Destinations Bournemouth (roughly hourly; 45min–1hr); London Victoria (15 daily; 2hr–2hr 20min–2hr 45min); Portsmouth (13 daily; 50min–1hr); Salisbury (1 daily; 45min); Weymouth (3 daily; 2hr 40min–3hr) and Winchester (10 daily; 25–45min).
Tourist information The main tourist information point is in the Central Library of the Civic Centre, 8 Civic Centre Rd (Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm; 02380 833333, discoversouthampton.co.uk), where you can pick up leaflets, maps and guides to the city.
Ennios Town Quay Rd, SO14 2AR 02380 221159, ennios.co.uk. In a former warehouse right on the waterfront, this boutique-style hotel has plush rooms with comfortable beds and smart bathrooms. The stylishly decorated rooms come with L’Occitane toiletries, and there’s an excellent Italian restaurant downstairs. £120
Pig in the Wall8 Western Esplanade, SO14 2AZ 02380 636900, thepighotel.com. Built into the city walls, Southampton’s most stylish boutique hotel has been cleverly renovated and beautifully decorated in a shabby-chic style. All the rooms have powerful showers and top-of-the range coffee machines – the large (pricier) rooms boast glamorous roll-top baths in the rooms themselves. There’s a great bar/lounge/deli downstairs, or you can jump in one of the hotel Land Rovers, which will take you to their sister hotel/restaurant in the New Forest for dinner. £145
The Arthouse Gallery Café 178 Above Bar St, SO14 7DW 02380 238582, thearthousesouthampton.org. Friendly, community-run café which serves delicious home-made vegan and vegetarian dishes, such as sharing platters and Greek meze (both £9), as well as organic rum and craft beers. The café also hosts workshops, art exhibitions, knitting circles and live music; upstairs, there’s a piano, comfy sofas and plenty of board games.Tues–Sat 10.30am–10pm, Sun noon–5pm.
Kuti’s Royal Thai Pier Gate House, Royal Pier, SO14 2AQ 02380 339211, royalthaipier.co.uk. Choose from the Thai tapas menu (mains from £9), the set menus or, best of all, the excellent five-course Sun lunch buffet (£12) at this superbly ornate waterside restaurant. The building was once a pier opened by the then Princess Victoria in 1833, and has fine views over the water from the outside deck on summer evenings. Mon–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 5–10pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 5pm–11pm, Sun noon–3pm & 5–10pm.
The Dancing Man Brewery Wool House, Town Quay, SO14 2AR 02380 836666, dancingmanbrewery.co.uk. The atmospheric fourteenth-century Wool House, a medieval warehouse, now houses a lively pub and microbrewery, with the beers brewed on site in vast stills. The food is good – pies, burgers, steaks (£11–18) plus tasty sandwiches at lunch (£5–8) – with waiter service upstairs and bar service downstairs. There are tables outside and dogs are welcome too. Mon–Wed & Sun noon–11pm, Thurs–Sat noon–midnight; kitchen Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 6–9pm, Sun noon–5pm.
The lozenge-shaped ISLE OF WIGHT has begun to shake off its old-fashioned image and attract a younger, livelier crowd, with a couple of major annual rock festivals and a scattering of fashionable hotels. Despite measuring less than 23 miles at its widest point, the island packs in a surprising variety of landscapes and coastal scenery. Its beaches have long attracted holiday-makers, and the island was a favourite of such eminent Victorians as Tennyson, Dickens, Swinburne, Julia Margaret Cameron and Queen Victoria herself, who made Osborne House, near Cowes, her permanent home after Albert died.
Arrival and departure The Isle of Wight
There are three ferry departure points from the mainland – Portsmouth, Southampton and Lymington. Fare structures and schedules on all routes are labyrinthine, from £16 for a day-return foot-passenger ticket on the Southampton–West Cowes route in low season to over £100 for a high-season return for a car and four passengers on the Lymington–Yarmouth route: check the companies’ websites for full details of current fares and schedules.
From Portsmouth Wightlink (wightlink.co.uk) runs car ferries from the Gunwharf Terminal to Fishbourne (45min), and a high-speed catamaran from the Harbour to Ryde (passengers only; 20min). Hovertravel (hovertravel.co.uk) runs hovercraft from Clarence Esplanade in Southsea to Ryde (passengers only; 10min).
From Southampton Red Funnel (redfunnel.co.uk) operates a high-speed catamaran to West Cowes (passengers only; 25min) and a car ferry to East Cowes (1hr).
From Lymington Wightlink (wightlink.co.uk) runs car ferries to Yarmouth (40min).
Tourist information The helpful Visit Isle of Wight (01983 521555, visitisleofwight.co.uk) is a good source of information and runs the island’s only tourist office; it’s in The Guildhall, High St, Newport (Mon–Fri 10am–3pm).
By train There are two train lines on the island: the seasonal Isle of Wight Steam Railway (01983 882204, iwsteamrailway.co.uk) runs from Wootton Bridge to Smallbrook Junction, where it connects with the east-coast Island line from Ryde to Shanklin (every 20–40min; 25min; islandlinetrains.co.uk).
By bus Local buses are run by Southern Vectis (01983 827000, islandbuses.info), who sell good-value tickets offering unlimited travel on their network (£10/day, £24/week).
By bike Cycling is a popular way of getting around the island, though in summer the narrow lanes can get very busy. For bike rental, contact Wight Cycle Hire (01983 761800, wightcyclehire.co.uk, from £12/half-day, £16/day): its office is in Yarmouth, but it can deliver bikes anywhere on the island (minimum hire fee £50).
As a major ferry terminal, RYDE is the first landfall many visitors make on the island, but one where few choose to linger, despite some grand nineteenth-century architecture and a fine sandy town beach.
The Royal Victoria Arcade, Union St, P033 2LQ • Mon–Sat 11am–4pm • £3 • 01983 717435, saucyseasidepostcards.com
Ryde’s quirky little Postcard Museum crams in a good proportion of the twelve thousand saucy postcards created by artist Donald McGill. The cards, produced throughout the first half of the twentieth century, reached their peak of popularity in the 1930s. Packed with daft double entendres, the collection here also shows how far things have moved since the Obscene Publications Act regularly tried to have McGill’s cards banned.
Arrival and departure Ryde
The bus station, hovercraft terminal and Esplanade train station are all near the base of the pier, while catamarans from Portsmouth dock at the Pier Head.
The Boathouse Springvale Rd, Seaview, PO34 5AW, 2 miles east of Ryde 01983 810616, theboathouseiow.co.uk. It’s a pleasant 2-mile walk along the coast to this classy gastropub, whose garden boasts fantastic views across the Solent. A great spot for a drink, it also serves scampi and chips (£12), seafood platters (£10.50) and fresh fish of the day. It also has spacious en-suite rooms decorated in a contemporary style with iPod docks; superior rooms have sea views. Mon–Sat 9am–11pm, Sun 9am–10.30pm; kitchen Mon–Sat 9–11am & noon–9.30pm, Sun 9–11am & noon–9pm.£130
Olivo 32–33 Union St, PO33 2LE 01983 611118, olivorestaurant.co.uk/ryde. Tasty Italian dishes in a buzzy, stylish restaurant with bare-brick walls and an open kitchen. There are decent pizzas (£10–13) and pasta dishes (£10–15), plus some less usual main courses, such as seared duck breast (£17). Daily 9am–9pm.
THE ISLE OF WIGHT STEAM RAILWAY
The seasonal Isle of Wight Steam Railway (01983 882204, iwsteamrailway.co.uk) makes the delightful ten-mile return trip from Smallbrook Junction (where it connects with the Island line) to Wootton Bridge, between Ryde and Newport. Its impeccably restored carriages in traditional green livery run through lovely unspoilt countryside, stopping at Ashey and Havenstreet, where there’s a small museum of railway memorabilia. The adult return fare (£13, or £11.50 online) is valid for any travel on that day.
Sorrento Lodge 11 The Strand PO33 2LG 01983 812813 sorrentolodge.co.uk. Very well kept B&B in a large townhouse with a seafront garden, run by a helpful couple. Some of the rooms have sea views, all are en suite, and the breakfasts are good.£80
Three Bouys Appley Lane, PO33 2DU 01983 811212, threebuoys.co.uk. Excellent food in a lovely setting in this upstairs restaurant with a large balcony overlooking Ryde beach. The decor is contemporary, with wooden floors and tables and big picture windows giving fantastic views over the Solent, and the food is well-cooked and -presented. Dishes include seared scallops (£9) and St Austell mussels (£15), and there are good vegetarian options. Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm, Sat noon–3pm & 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Morton Old Rd, PO36 OPH • Daily 10am–5pm; last entry 4pm • £9.50 • 01983 406223, bradingromanvilla.org.uk • Bus #3 from Ryde or Sandown
Just south of the ancient village of Brading, on the busy Ryde to Sandown A3055, are the remains of Brading Roman Villa, which are renowned for their mosaics. This is the more impressive of two such villas on the island, both of which were probably sites of bacchanalian worship. The Brading site is housed in an attractive modern museum and its superbly preserved mosaics include intact images of Medusa and depictions of Orpheus. There’s also a good café here.
The traditional seaside resort of SANDOWN merges with Shanklin across the sandy reach of Sandown Bay, representing the island’s holiday-making epicentre. This traditional 1960s bucket-and-spade resort has the island’s only surviving pleasure pier, bedecked with traditional amusements and a large theatre, with nightly entertainment in season.
Arrival and departure Sandown
By train The Island line train station, served by trains from Ryde and Shanklin, is on Station Ave, about a 10min walk inland from the pier.
By Bus Buses #2 from Newport via Shanklin, or #3 & #8 from Ryde.
The Belmore 101 Station Avenue P036 8HD 01983 404189, belmorebandb.com. On a quiet street a short walk from the beach, this large Victorian house has been converted into a smart B&B. The comfortable rooms are decorated with stylish furnishings and have a marine vibe. Two-night minimum stay in summer. £80
The Reef The Esplanade, PO36 8AE 01983 403219, thereefsandown.co.uk. A bright bar/restaurant right on the seafront, with great views. It serves up a range of mid-priced dishes including pizzas, pasta and burgers (from £10), steaks (£18) and fresh fish (from £11). Daily 11am–11pm; kitchen daily noon–9pm.
SHANKLIN, with its auburn cliffs, Old Village and scenic Chine, has a marginally more sophisticated aura than its northern neighbour. The rose-clad, thatched Old Village may be syrupy, but the adjacent Shanklin Chine (daily: April to late May 10am–5pm; late May to Sept 10am–10pm; late Oct 10am–8pm; £4.50 single visit, £5.50 return ticket valid for a week; 01983 866432, shanklinchine.co.uk), a twisting pathway descending a mossy ravine and decorated on summer nights with fairy lights, is undeniably picturesque; former resident John Keats once drew inspiration from the environs.
Arrival and departure Shanklin
By train The final stop on the Island Line from Ryde, Shanklin train station is about half a mile inland at the top of Regent St.
By bus The bus station (buses #2 & #3 from Ryde and Newport) is a little south of the train station, on Landguard Rd.
Fisherman’s Cottage Southern end of the Esplanade, at the bottom of Shanklin Chine, PO37 6BN 01983 863882, fishermanscottageshanklin.co.uk. An atmospheric nineteenth-century thatched pub right on the seafront, with outside tables: it‘s child-friendly and serves wholesome pub food, such as fish pie and cod and chips (mains around £11). Mid-March to Oct daily: pub 11am–10pm; kitchen noon–9pm.
Pendleton’s 85 High Street, PO37 6NR 01983 868727, pendletons.org. Well-regarded restaurant serving local produce where possible, in dishes such as duck leg with champ mash, pork medallions (around £16) and pasta (from £12). Tues–Sat 6pm–11pm.
Rylstone Manor Rylstone Gardens, PO37 6RG 01983 862806, www.rylstone-manor.co.uk. This superb Victorian pile, with period decor, sits right in the middle of the leafy public gardens at the top of the cliff. It has its own bar and dining room, though children under 16 are not allowed and in high season there is a 3-night minimum stay. £145
The seaside resort of VENTNOR and its two village suburbs of Bonchurch and St Lawrence sit at the foot of St Boniface Down, the island’s highest point at 787ft. The Down periodically disintegrates into landslides, creating the jumbled terraces known as the Undercliff, whose sheltered, south-facing aspect, mild winter temperatures and thick carpet of undergrowth have contributed to the former fishing village becoming a fashionable health spa. Thanks to these unique factors, the town has rather more character than the island’s other resorts, its Gothic Revival buildings clinging dizzily to zigzagging bends.
The floral terraces of the Cascade curve down to the slender Esplanade and narrow beach, where some of the former boat-builders’ cottages now house shops, cafés and restaurants. From the Esplanade, it’s a pleasant mile-long stroll to Ventnor’s rolling Botanical Gardens, filled with exotic plants and impressive glasshouses (daily 10am–5pm; £9.50, valid for one week; 01983 855397, botanic.co.uk).
Accommodation Ventnor
Hambrough HotelHambrough Rd, PO38 1SQ 01983 856333, thehambrough.com. Small, stylish, modern hotel with a chic bar. The comfortable rooms come with all the luxuries, including flatscreen TV and espresso machines; most have sea views, and some have balconies. £150
The Leconfield 85 Leeson Rd, Upper Bonchurch, PO38 1PU 01983 852196, leconfieldhotel.com. Friendly and comfortable B&B in attractive grounds overlooking the sea. The well-kept rooms are spacious, light and airy, and many have free-standing baths and sea views. The breakfast’s delicious, and there’s a heated pool in summer in the lovely garden. £90
El Toro Contento 2 Pier St, PO38 1ST 01983 857600, eltorocontento.co.uk. A cosy restaurant dishing up home-made tapas, such as chorizo in cider and spicy mussels, most for under a fiver. Also serves Spanish hams and cheeses and will cook paella (around £11 a head, minimum 4 people) with 24hr notice. Summer daily 5–10pm; winter Thurs–Sun 4–10pm.
Spyglass Inn Ventnor Esplanade, PO38 1JX 01983 855338, thespyglass.com. Lively pub, with a terrace, in a great location on the seafront. You can eat giant portions of pub grub, such as fisherman’s pie (most mains £10–12). Frequent live music, too. Daily 10am–11pm; kitchen daily noon–9.30pm.
Wheelers Crab Shed Steephill Cove, PO38 1AF 01983 855819. Delicious home-made crab pasties, sandwiches and mackerel ciabattas served from a pretty shack on the seashore. Also tasty local lobster salads and daily fish specials. Easter to October Mon & Wed–Sun (plus sunny weekends & hols in other months) noon–3pm.
The western Undercliff begins to recede at the village of Niton, where a path continues to the most southerly tip of the island, St Catherine’s Point, marked by a modern lighthouse. A prominent landmark on the downs behind is St Catherine’s Oratory, known locally as the “Pepper Pot”: originally a lighthouse, it reputedly dates from 1325. Seven miles northwest along the coast, Military Road ascends the flank of Compton Down before descending into Freshwater Bay. If you’re walking this way, stop off at National Trust-owned Compton Bay, a splendid spot for a swim or picnic that’s frequented by local surfers and accessed by a steep path from the dark red cliffs. On the coastal road at Freshwater Bay is Dimbola Lodge (April–Oct daily 10am–5pm, Oct–March Tues–Sun 10am–4pm; £5; 01983 756814, dimbola.co.uk), home to pioneer photographer Julia Margaret Cameron, who settled here after visiting Tennyson in 1860. The building now houses a gallery of her work plus changing exhibitions, and a room of memorabilia from the Isle of Wight festival. There’s also a bookshop and tearoom/restaurant.
Accommodation The southwest coast
Tom’s Eco LodgeTapnell Farm, Newport Rd, PO41 0YJ 07717 666346, tomsecolodge.com. Set next to the Tapnell Farm animal park and activity centre (tapnellfarm.com) with stunning views over the distant Solent, these ready-erected, upmarket tents are the ultimate in glamping – they come complete with fridges, electricity, private hot-water showers and flushing toilets. Great for families. Minimum three-night stay. From £192
The breezy four-mile ridge of Tennyson Down running from Freshwater Bay to The Needles is one of the island’s most satisfying walks, with vistas onto rolling downs and vales. On top of the Down, there’s a monument to the eponymous poet, who lived on the island for forty years from 1853 until his death. At its western tip sits the Needles Old Battery, a gun emplacement built 250ft above the sea in 1863 (April–Oct daily 10.30am–5pm; fort may be closed in bad weather; £6.50, NT; 01983 754772, nationaltrust.org.uk/the-needles-old-battery-and-new-battery). There are fabulous views from here over the three tall chalk stacks known as The Needles, which jut out into the English Channel. Needles Pleasure Cruises runs boat trips round the Needles (April–Oct; £6; 01983 761587, www.needlespleasurecruises.co.uk) from Alum Bay, a twenty-minute walk away. To catch the boat, you can take the cliff path or the chairlift (daily 10am–4pm; £6 return; www.theneedles.co.uk), which descends the polychrome cliffs to ochre-hued sands.
Four miles east of the Needles and linked to Lymington in the New Forest by car ferry, the pleasant north-coast town of YARMOUTH makes a lovely entrance to the island and is the best base for exploring its western tip. Although razed by the French in 1377, the port prospered after Yarmouth Castle (Easter–Oct daily 10am–4pm; £5.20, EH; 01983 760678, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/yarmouth-castle), tucked between the quay and the pier, was commissioned by Henry VIII. Some of the rooms re-create life in a sixteenth-century castle, and there’s also a display on the many wrecks that floundered here in the Solent, while the battlements afford superb views over the estuary. Yarmouth’s only other real sight is the Grade II listed pier, England’s longest wooden pier still in use.
Accommodation and eating Yarmouth
The Blue Crab High St, PO41 OPL 01983 760014, thebluecrab.co.uk. A simply decorated restaurant, with cosy booths, that offers fish and shellfish dishes such as hake with mussel and leek sauce (£15). Also does top-quality fresh fish and chips from £8. Mon–Wed, Fri & Sat 11am–3pm & 6–11pm, Thurs 10am–3pm & 6–11pm, Sun 6–11pm.
The George Hotel Quay St, PO41 0PE 01983 760331, thegeorge.co.uk. In a great position right by the ferry dock, with a lovely garden overlooking the Solent, this seventeenth-century hotel has hosted the likes of Charles II in its time. The rooms are comfortable and elegantly furnished, some with balconies looking out over the water, and there are two excellent restaurants downstairs, specializing in local produce. Minimum two-night stay at weekends. £200
Off the Rails Station Rd, PO41 0QT 01983 761600, offtherailsyarmouth.co.uk. In the former station on a disused railway line that is now a popular cycle path, this cosy café has train-style banquettes and a wood-burner inside, while outside there are tables on the platform overlooking the River Yar. The food is good, if slightly pricey, with breakfasts such as smoked salmon and scrambled eggs (£10.50), tasty burgers (£12), and more unusual options for dinner such as duck cassoulet (£16). Wed, Thurs & Sun 9am–4pm, Fri & Sat 9am–10pm.
COWES, at the island’s northern tip, is associated with sailing and boat building: Henry VIII installed a castle to defend the Solent’s expanding naval dockyards from the French and Spanish, and in the 1950s the world’s first hovercraft made its test runs here. In 1820 the Prince Regent’s patronage of the yacht club gave the port its cachet, and the Royal Yacht Squadron is now one of the world’s most exclusive sailing clubs. The first week of August sees international yachting festival Cowes Week (lendycowesweek.co.uk), where serious sailors mingle with royalty, and most summer weekends have some form of nautical event.
The town is bisected by the River Medina, with West Cowes being the older, more interesting half. At the bottom of the meandering High Street, boat trips around the harbour and the Solent leave from Thetis Wharf, near the Parade (01983 564602, solentcruises.co.uk). The more industrial East Cowes, where you’ll find Osborne House, is connected to West Cowes by a “floating bridge”, or chain ferry (approx every 10–15min, Mon–Sat 5–12.30am, Sun 6.30–12.30am; pedestrians £1.50 return, cars £2.60 single; iwfloatingbridge.co.uk, 01983 293041).
East Cowes, P032 6JX • April–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–March Sat & Sun 10am–4pm • £16.20; EH • 01983 200022, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/osborne • Bus #4 from Ryde or #5 from Newport, or either from East Cowes
The only place of interest in East Cowes is Queen Victoria’s family home, Osborne House, a mile southeast of town. It was built in the late 1840s by Prince Albert and Thomas Cubitt in the style of an Italianate villa, with balconies and large terraces looking over the gardens to the Solent. The state rooms, used for entertaining visiting dignitaries, exude formality as one would expect – the Durbar Room, clad almost entirely in ivory, is particularly impressive – while the private apartments feel homely in a manner appropriate to the affluent family holiday residence that Osborne was. Following Albert’s death, the desolate Victoria spent much of her time here, and it’s where she eventually died in 1901. Since then, according to her wishes, the house has remained virtually unaltered, allowing an intimate glimpse into Victoria’s family life. In the grounds, you can see the remains of a barracks with its own drawbridge, built by Prince Albert as a place where the boys could play soldiers, and Queen Victoria’s original bathing machine, next to her private beach.
Accommodation Cowes
Albert Cottage York Ave, East Cowes, PO32 6BD 01983 299309, albertcottagehotel.com. Adjacent to and once part of the Osborne estate, this lovely mansion has a country house feel. Rooms are very comfortable, and have flatscreen TVs; it has its own highly rated restaurant, too. £140
Into the Woods Lower Westwood, Brocks Copse Rd, Wootton, PO33 4NP 07769 696464, isleofwighttreehouse.com. Luxury treehouse (sleeps 4) and shepherds’ huts (sleep 6) to rent on a farm three miles south of East Cowes. Both are beautifully finished and eco-friendly, with wood-burning stoves, en-suite showers, and wi-fi. The location is peaceful, with chickens and geese, rope swings to play on and woods to run around in – the perfect combination of nature and home comforts. Two-night minimum stay off-season, up to seven nights minimum in Aug. Treehouse £175, huts £150
Villa Rothsay Baring Rd, West Cowes, PO31 8DF 01983 295178, villa-rothsay.co.uk. Upmarket boutique hotel that’s maintained its Victorian roots with period decor throughout – think curtains, ornate stairways and stained-glass windows. Some of the rooms have sea views and balconies (£10 extra) and there are great views from the grounds and raised patio area. £145
The Coast Bar & Dining Room 14–15 Shooters Hill, West Cowes, PO31 7BG 01983 298574, thecoastbar.co.uk. Light and airy bar/restaurant with wooden floors and a lively, informal vibe. The menu features wood-fired pizzas (£9–12), plus the likes of seafood linguine (£14) and a good selection of steaks (from £19). Daily 9am–1am.
Folly Inn Folly Lane, Whippingham, P032 6NB 01983 297171. A mile from Osborne House, this attractive waterside pub has the river lapping at its decks and is said to have replaced a French smuggler’s barge that sold produce here in the 1700s. It serves decent pub food such as beef and ale pie (£11), plus tasty fajitas (£12). The Folly Waterbus (07974 864627) runs a taxi service from Cowes to the jetty next to the pub. Daily 9am–10pm.
The Mess Canteen & Bar63 High St, West Cowes, PO31 7RL 01983 280083. Completely decorated with recycled materials, this lively place serves great burgers – try tempura soft-shell crab or halloumi – and unusual salads like calamari or goats’ cheese, all around £9–12. There’s a good range of cocktails – the Isle of Wight jam-jar tea is tasty – the service is friendly and the vibe is fun.Mon–Thurs 11am–2.30pm & 6–9pm, Sat 11am–9.30pm, Sun 11am–3.30pm.
The capital of the Isle of Wight, NEWPORT, sits in the centre of the island at a point where the River Medina’s commercial navigability ends. Though worth a visit to see the hilltop fortress of Carisbrooke Castle, the town itself isn’t particularly engaging.
Castle Hill, southwest of Newport, P030 1XY • Feb half term daily 10am–4pm; late Feb & March Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; April–Sept daily 10am–6pm; Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov to early Feb Sat & Sun 10am–4pm • £9.40; EH • 01983 523112, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/carisbrook-castle • Bus #7 from Newport
The most famous resident of Carisbrooke Castle, a rather austere Norman pile, was Charles I, detained here (and caught one night ignominiously jammed between his room’s bars while attempting escape) before his execution in London. The museum features relics from his incarceration, as well as those of the last royal resident, Princess Beatrice, Queen Victoria’s youngest daughter. There’s also a sixteenth-century well-house, where you can watch donkeys trudge around a huge treadmill to raise a barrel 160ft up the well shaft.
Nowadays a tranquil, handsome market town, WINCHESTER was once one of the mightiest settlements in England. Under the Romans it was Venta Belgarum, the fifth-largest town in Britain, but it was Alfred the Great who really put Winchester on the map when he made it the capital of his Wessex kingdom in the ninth century. For the next two hundred years or so Winchester ranked alongside London, its status affirmed by William the Conqueror’s coronation in both cities and by his commissioning of the local monks to prepare the Domesday Book. It wasn’t until after the Battle of Naseby in 1645, when Cromwell took the city, that Winchester began its decline into provinciality.
Hampshire’s county town now has a scholarly and slightly anachronistic air, embodied by the ancient almshouses that still provide shelter for senior citizens of “noble poverty” – the pensioners can be seen walking round the town in medieval black or mulberry-coloured gowns with silver badges. It also makes a good base from which to explore the nearby towns of Chawton and Selborne, homes, respectively, to Jane Austen and the eminent naturalist, Gilbert White.
9 The Close, SO23 9LS • Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 12.30–3pm • £8, including a guided tour of cathedral, treasury and crypt (ticket valid for one year) • Tower tours Jan–May, Oct & Nov Wed 2.15pm, Sat 11.30am & 2.15pm; June–Sept Mon, Wed & Fri 2.15pm, Sat 11.30am & 2.15pm; 1hr 30min • £6.50 • 01962 857275, winchester-cathedral.org.uk
The first minster to be built in Winchester was raised by Cenwalh, the Saxon king of Wessex in the mid-seventh century, and traces of this building have been unearthed near the present cathedral, which was begun in 1079 and completed some three hundred years later. The exterior is not its best feature – squat and massive, it crouches stumpily over the tidy lawns of the Cathedral Close. The interior is rich and complex, however, and its 556ft nave makes this Europe’s longest medieval church. Outstanding features include the carved Norman font of black Tournai marble, the fourteenth-century misericords (the choir stalls are the oldest complete set in the country) and some amazing monuments – William of Wykeham’s Chantry, halfway down the nave on the right, is one of the most ornate.
Jane Austen, who died in Winchester, is commemorated close to the font by a memorial brass and slab beneath which she’s interred, though she’s recorded simply as the daughter of a local clergyman. Above the high altar lie the mortuary chests of pre-Conquest kings, including Cnut (though the bones were mixed up after Cromwell’s Roundheads broke up the chests in 1645); William Rufus, killed while hunting in the New Forest in 1100, lies in the presbytery.
Behind the impressive Victorian screen at the end of the presbytery, look out for the memorial shrine to St Swithun. Originally buried in the churchyard, his remains were later interred inside, where the “rain of heaven” could no longer fall on him, whereupon he took revenge and the heavens opened for forty days – hence the legend that if it rains on St Swithun’s Day it will do so for another forty. His exact burial place is unknown.
Accessible from the north transept, the Norman crypt – often flooded – is home to Antony Gormley’s contemplative figure Sound II, which is frequently ankle-deep in the waters. The cathedral’s original foundations were dug in marshy ground, and at the beginning of the last century a steadfast diver, William Walker, spent five years replacing the rotten timber foundations with concrete.
At the top of the High St on Castle Ave, SO23 8UJ • Daily 10am–5pm • Free, donation requested • 01962 846476, hants.gov.uk/greathall
The Great Hall is all that remains of a thirteenth-century castle destroyed by Cromwell. Sir Walter Raleigh heard his death sentence here in 1603, though he wasn’t finally dispatched until 1618, and Judge Jeffreys held one of his Bloody Assizes in the castle after Monmouth’s rebellion in 1685. The main interest now is a large, brightly painted disc slung on one wall like some curious antique dartboard. This is alleged to be King Arthur’s Round Table, but the woodwork is probably fourteenth-century, later repainted as a PR exercise for the Tudor dynasty – the portrait of Arthur at the top of the table bears an uncanny resemblance to Henry VIII.
College Street is home to the buildings of Winchester College, England’s oldest public school – set up in 1382 by William of Wykeham for “poor scholars”, it now educates few but the wealthy and privileged. You can look round the medieval buildings, cloisters and Gothic chapel on a guided tour (2–4 daily; 1hr; £8; 01962 621209, winchestercollege.org).
At no.8 College Street stands the house where Jane Austen died. She moved here from Chawton in 1817, when she was already ill with Addison’s Disease, and died later the same year, aged 42. The house is privately owned, though, so you can’t look round. At the top of the street, the thirteenth-century Kings Gate is one of the city’s original medieval gateways, housing the tiny St Swithun’s Church.
THE WATERCRESS LINE
Alresford, six miles east of Winchester, is the departure point for the Watercress Line (Feb–July, Sept & Oct days vary; Aug & school hols daily; call or check website for details; £16; 01962 733810, watercressline.co.uk), a steam-powered railway so named because it passes through the former watercress beds that once flourished here. The train chuffs ten miles to Alton, with gourmet dinners served on board on Saturday evenings, plus traditional Sunday lunches, and Real Ales Trains serving ales from local breweries on some Saturday evenings.
THE REAL DOWNTON ABBEY
Tucked away in the northern reaches of Hampshire, twenty miles north of Winchester, Highclere Castle (9.30am–5pm: Easter, early April & May bank hol weekends daily, mid-July to mid-Sept Mon–Thurs & Sun; castle, exhibition and gardens £22, castle and gardens £15, gardens £7; 01635 253210, highclerecastle.co.uk) will be very familiar to fans of ITV’s hit period drama, Downton Abbey, which was filmed here. Home to Lord Carnarvon and his family, the house is approached via a long drive that winds through a stunning 5000-acre estate, and is surrounded by beautiful gardens designed by Capability Brown. Inside, Downton Abbey aficionados will enjoy loitering in the Drawing Room and Library, scene of many a quivering stiff-upper-lip of Lord Grantham and family, while upstairs you can peer into the Crawley girls’ rooms. In the castle cellars, an Egyptian Exhibition celebrates the real-life fifth Earl of Carnarvon, who, in 1922, discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun with Howard Carter, and who funded many of Carter’s expeditions. Since the house is still a family home and is sometimes closed for filming, hours vary; call ahead or check online.
Entrance off College St, SO23 9NB • April–Sept daily 10am–5pm • Free; EH • www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/wolvesey-castle-old-bishops-palace
East of the cathedral, the remains of Winchester’s Saxon walls bracket the twelfth-century Wolvesey Castle – actually the palace for the Bishops of Winchester, who once wielded great clout over England’s religious and political affairs. As a result, this was once one of the most important buildings in Winchester, with its own stables, prison, chapel and gardens. Today, the castle ruins remain impressive, dwarfing the current dwelling of the Bishop of Winchester, a relatively modest house built in 1680, which sits alongside it.
Arrival and information Winchester
By train The station is about a mile northwest of the cathedral, on Stockbridge Rd.
Destinations Bournemouth (every 15–20min; 45min–1hr); London Waterloo (every 15–20min; 1hr–1hr 10min); Portsmouth (hourly; 1hr); Southampton (every 15min; 15–30min).
By bus National Express buses pull in at and depart from the conveniently located bus station on the Broadway, opposite the tourist office.
Destinations Bournemouth (8 daily; 1hr 20min–1hr 55min); London (8 daily; 1hr 55min–2hr 30min); Southampton (10 daily; 25–45min).
Tourist office In the imposing Guildhall, High St (May–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun & bank hols 11am–4pm; Oct–April Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; 01962 840500, visitwinchester.co.uk).
29 Christchurch Road 29 Christchurch Rd, SO23 9SU 01962 868 661, bedbreakfastwinchester.co.uk; map. Well-furnished, comfortable B&B in a charming Regency house located in a quiet, residential part of town. No smoking. £100
Lainston Country House Hotel Woodman Lange, Sparshot, SO21 2LT 01962 776088, exclusive.co.uk/lainston-house; map. Around a 10min drive from Winchester towards Stockbridge, this seventeenth-century mansion sits in 63 acres of grounds – it’s luxurious and comfortable, with huge bedrooms and friendly staff. It has its own quality restaurant, specializing in local produce. £175
The Old Vine 8 Great Minster St, SO23 9HA 01962 854616, oldvinewinchester.com; map. Lovely, big rooms that combine period decor with modern touches such as widescreen TVs, above a fine bar/restaurant, and right opposite the cathedral. The street can be noisy at night. £120
Forte Kitchen78 Parchment St SO23 8AT 01962 856840, fortekitchen.co.uk; map. The best place in town for lunch. There’s a good selection of sandwiches plus hearty mains such as smoked mackerel with spinach, poached eggs and sourdough, or Hampshire beef burger (both £11.50). Attracts a lively, arty clientele. Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–4pm.
River Cottage CanteenAbbey Mill, Abbey Mill Gardens, The Broadway, SO23 9GH 01962 457747, rivercottage.net/canteens; map. Located in a converted mill building, this is a great venue spread over several floors, with outside seating by the millstream. The menu features local ingredients, such as pan-fried gurnard (£16), and plenty of veggie options like roasted squash and spinach curry (£14). The cocktails are good, too. Mon–Fri 11am–10.30pm, Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
The Black BoyWharf Hill, SO23 9NP 01962 861754, theblackboypub.com; map. Fantastic old pub with log fires, book-lined walls and low ceilings hung with old coins and miniature bottles. Good local cask ales are on draught and there’s reasonable pub grub from around £10, as well as a small outdoor terrace. Mon–Thurs noon–11pm, Fri & Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–11.30pm.
Wykeham Arms75 Kingsgate St, SO23 9PE 01962 853834, wykehamarmswinchester.co.uk; map. This highly atmospheric eighteenth-century pub has a warren of cosy rooms, with open fireplaces, good bar snacks and decent beers. Daily 11am–11pm.
A mile southwest of Alton and sixteen miles northeast of Winchester, the village of CHAWTON was home to Jane Austen from 1809 to 1817, during the last and most prolific years of her life – it was here that she wrote or revised almost all of her six books, including Sense and Sensibility and Pride and Prejudice.
Winchester Road, GU34 1SD • Daily: March–May & Sept–Dec 10.30am–4.30pm; June–Aug 10am–5pm • £8 01420 83262, www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk
A plain red-brick building in the centre of the village, Jane Austen’s House contains first editions of some of her greatest works and provides a fascinating insight into her daily life. You can see a lock of her hair, pieces of her jewellery and the desk where she wrote her books. The gardens include a learning centre that shows a short film about her life.
GU34 1SJ • Late March to Oct Mon–Fri noon–4.30pm, Sun 11am–5pm; last entry 30mins before closing • £8 • 01420 541010, www.chawtonhouse.org
A short walk from Jane Austen’s house is Chawton House, which belonged to Jane’s brother, Edward Austen Knight. It remained in the Austen family until 1987, when it was bought by American IT millionaire Sandy Lerner. She opened the Chawton House Library, which contains an impressive collection of women’s writing in English from 1600 to 1830; it also hosts frequent events.
Arrival and departure Chawton
By train The village is accessible on the Watercress Line steam train.
By bus From Winchester or Alton train station, take the #64 to Chawton roundabout (1–2 hourly; 15min from Alton; 40min from Winchester), then it’s a 12min walk.
Covering about 220 square miles, the NEW FOREST is one of southern England’s favourite rural playgrounds, with some 13.5 million day-visits annually. The land was requisitioned by William the Conqueror in 1079 as a hunting ground, and the rights of its inhabitants became subservient to those of his precious deer. Fences to impede their progress were forbidden and terrible punishments were meted out to anyone caught poaching – hands were lopped off, eyes put out. Later monarchs less passionate about hunting gradually restored the commoners’ rights, and today the New Forest enjoys a unique patchwork of ancient laws and privileges alongside the regulations applying to its National Park status.
The trees here are now much more varied than they were in pre-Norman times, with birch, holly, yew, Scots pine and other conifers interspersed with the ancient oaks and beeches. One of the most venerable trees is the much-visited Knightwood Oak, just a few hundred yards north of the A35, three miles southwest of Lyndhurst, which measures about 22ft in circumference at shoulder height. The most conspicuous species of fauna is the New Forest pony – you’ll see them grazing nonchalantly by the roadsides and ambling through some villages. The local deer are less visible now that some of the faster roads are fenced, although several species still roam the woods, including the tiny sika deer, descendants of a pair that escaped from nearby Beaulieu in 1904.
Arrival and departure The New Forest
By train The main London to Weymouth line passes through the New Forest, with fast trains stopping at Brockenhurst; slower trains also stop at Ashurst, Sway and New Milton. From Brockenhurst a branch line runs to Lymington (every 30min; 10min) to link with the Isle of Wight ferry.
Though the southern forest stretches have a reasonably efficient bus network, to get the best from the New Forest, you need to walk or ride through it, avoiding the places cars can reach.
By bus Useful routes through the forest include the #6 from Southampton to Lymington via Lyndhurst and Brockenhurst; the coastal routes #X1 and #X2 from Bournemouth and Christchurch to Lymington; and in summer the hop-on hop-off open-top New Forest Tour bus which runs on three different circular routes around the forest, taking in all the main settlements, and can carry up to four bikes for free (July to mid-Sept; £14.40 for a one-day ticket, valid on all three routes; thenewforesttour.info). Other services are run by More Buses (01202 338420, morebus.co.uk) and Blue Star (01202 338421, bluestarbus.co.uk).
By bike There are 150 miles of car-free gravel roads in the forest, making cycling an appealing prospect – pick up a book of route maps from tourist offices or bike rental shops. Bikes can be rented in several places: for details of cycle routes and bike-hire outfits, check www.new-forest-national-park.com/bike-hire-in-the-new-forest.html.
Information offices There are two information centres in the forest, one in Lyndhurst (see below), and the other in Lymington, in the St Barbe Museum, New St, off the High St (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–4pm; 01590 689000, lymington.org).
Maps The Ordnance Survey Leisure Map 22 of the New Forest is best for exploring. Shops in Lyndhurst sell specialist walking books and natural history guides.
Camping There are ten campsites throughout the forest run by Camping in the Forest (024 7642 3008, campingintheforest.co.uk); most are open from Easter to late Sept, though some are open year-round. Some are very simple, with few or no facilities, others have electricity and hot shower blocks, but they all have open access to the forest. Many even have streams and fords running through them, with ponies and donkeys wandering freely.
LYNDHURST, its town centre skewered by an agonizing one-way system, isn’t a particularly interesting place, though the brick parish church is worth a glance for its William Morris glass and the grave of Mrs Reginald Hargreaves, better known as Alice Liddell, Lewis Carroll’s model for Alice. The town is of most interest to visitors for the New Forest Museum and Visitor Centre in the central car park off the High Street (daily: April–Oct 10am–5pm; Nov–March 10am–4pm; 023 8028 3444, newforestcentre.org.uk), and the adjoining museum (free, donations welcome), which focuses on the history, wildlife and industries of the New Forest. The forest’s most visited site, the Rufus Stone, stands three miles northwest of Lyndhurst. Erected in 1745, it marks the putative spot where the Conqueror’s son and heir, William II – aka William Rufus, after his ruddy complexion – was killed by a crossbow bolt in 1100.
Accommodation Lyndhurst
Forest Lodge Hotel Pikes Hill, Romsey Rd, SO43 7AS 023 8028 3677, newforesthotels.co.uk/forest-lodge-hotel. Attractive Georgian building in a good location – a short walk from Lyndhurst High St but away from the main road, so there’s less traffic noise. The rooms are comfortable and there’s an indoor pool and sauna. £150
Rufus House Southampton Rd, SO43 7BR 023 8028 2930, rufushouse.co.uk. A couple of minutes out of town on the Ashurst road, opposite some fine New Forest countryside, this good-value place has plenty of character. Its tower room has a four-poster bed (£15 extra), though front rooms face a busy road. Minimum two-night let in high season. £95
The Oak Inn Pinkney Lane, Bank, SO43 7FD 023 8028 2350, oakinnlyndhurst.co.uk. Fantastic little country pub a mile out of Lyndhurst, with low wooden ceilings, a roaring fire for winter and a garden for the summer. It’s popular with walkers and cyclists and there’s decent food (mains from £14.50), featuring local ingredients – it’s best to book in advance. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm; kitchen Mon–Fri noon–5pm & 6–9pm, Sat noon–5pm & 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–5pm & 6–8pm.
La Pergola Southampton Rd, SO43 7BQ 023 8028 4184, la-pergola.co.uk. Lively Italian restaurant in an attractive building with its own garden. Sizzling meat and fish dishes cost around £15–20, and there’s tasty pasta and pizza from £10 and superb home-made desserts, as well as daily specials. Tues–Sun & bank hols 11am–2.30pm & 6–10.30pm.
The village of BEAULIEU (pronounced “Bewley”), in the southeast corner of the New Forest, was the site of one of England’s most influential monasteries, a Cistercian house founded in 1204 by King John – in remorse, it is said, for ordering a group of supplicating monks to be trampled to death. Built using stone ferried from Caen in northern France and Quarr on the Isle of Wight, the abbey managed a self-sufficient estate of ten thousand acres, but was dismantled soon after the Dissolution. Its refectory now forms the parish church, which, like everything else in Beaulieu, has been subsumed into the Montagu family estate – they have owned a large chunk of the New Forest since one of Charles II’s illegitimate progeny was named duke of the estate.
Beaulieu, SO42 7ZN • Daily: June–Sept 10am–6pm; Oct–May 10am–5pm • £24.75, or £19.50 online • 01590 612435, beaulieu.co.uk
Beaulieu estate comprises Palace House, the family home of the Montagus, a ruined Cistercian abbey and the main attraction, the National Motor Museum, plus fine grounds. The museum’s collection of over 250 vehicles includes spindly antiques, recent classics and Formula I cars rubbing shoulders with land-speed racers, Ferraris and a Sinclair C5, as well as some of Top Gear’s more outlandish vehicles. A monorail runs through the museum and grounds, towards Palace House, formerly the abbey’s gatehouse, which contains masses of Montagu-related memorabilia. The undercroft of the abbey houses an exhibition on medieval monastic life.
Accommodation and eating Beaulieu
The Montagu ArmsLyndhurst Rd, SO42 7ZL 01590 612324, montaguarmshotel.co.uk. You can stay in smart and comfortable rooms, some with four-poster beds, in this seventeenth-century building with open fires and a lovely garden. There’s good-quality pub food at the on-site Monty’s Inn, or you can push the boat out for a meal at The Terrace, one of the New Forest’s top restaurants. The three-course Terrace lunch menu is good value at £23, while the full tasting menu costs £90 a head. Monty’s: Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 6–11pm, Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10.30pm; The Terrace: Tues 7–9.30pm, Wed–Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–9.30pm.£190
Daily: April–Sept 10am–5pm; Oct–March 10am–4.30pm • Free (if you walk or cycle), £6.90 (covers parking and Maritime Museum entrance) • 01590 616203, bucklershard.co.uk
The hamlet of BUCKLER’S HARD, a couple of miles downstream from Beaulieu, has a wonderful setting. A row of picturesque thatched shipwrights’ cottages, some of which are inhabited, leads down to the Beaulieu River; it doesn’t look much like a shipyard now, but from Elizabethan times onwards dozens of men o’ war were assembled here from giant New Forest oaks. Several of Nelson’s ships were launched here, to be towed carefully by rowing boats past the sandbanks and across the Solent to Portsmouth. The largest house in the hamlet, which forms part of the Montagu estate, belonged to Henry Adams, the master builder responsible for most of the Trafalgar fleet; it’s now a hotel, pub and restaurant (see below).
At the top of the village is the Maritime Museum, which traces the history of the great ships and incorporates buildings preserved in their eighteenth-century form. The hamlet is also the starting point for a bucolic river cruise down the Beaulieu River (Easter to Oct daily, roughly hourly 11am–4.30pm; 30min; £5, or £4.50 if booked online).
The Master Builder’s Hotel SO42 7XB 0844 815 3399, hillbrookehotels.co.uk/the-master-builders. Picturesque and peaceful, this wonderful quirky hotel is in a sixteenth-century building with open fires and a superb location overlooking the river. The rooms are a mixed bunch; some have east Asian flourishes and individually designed furniture, and some have views of the river. There’s also a decent restaurant and pub – the Yachtsman’s Bar menu features standard pub grub, with sandwiches (£6.50), pizzas (£12–14) and fish and chips (£13), while the Riverview Restaurant is a more upmarket affair, serving starters such as salt-fired Solent mackerel (£7), followed by roast sea bass with Lymington crab risotto (£19.50). You can take drinks and food from the bar menu outside onto the lawns in nice weather. Bar daily noon–9pm; restaurant Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–9pm, Sun 12.30–3pm & 7–9pm.£120
The most pleasant point of access for ferries to the Isle of Wight is LYMINGTON, a sheltered haven that’s become one of the busiest leisure harbours on the south coast. Rising from the quay area, the cobbled street of the old town is lined with Georgian houses. At the top of the High Street (opposite Church Lane) is the partly thirteenth-century Church of St Thomas the Apostle, which has a cupola-topped tower built in 1670.
Arrival and departure Lymington
By train A branch line runs from Brockenhurst to Lymington (every 30min; 10min). Trains call first at Lymington Town station, a short walk from the High St, then run onto Lymington Pier to link with the Isle of Wight ferry.
By bus Bus #6 runs roughly hourly from Southampton to Lymington (1hr 15min) via Lyndhurst (40min) and Brockenhurst (55min); the coastal routes #X1 and #X2 (1–2 hourly) run here from Christchurch (1hr 10min) and Bournemouth (1hr 45min).
Britannia House Mill Lane, SO41 3BA 01590 672091, britannia-house.com. A well-kept, friendly and central B&B, right by the train station. The comfortable rooms are on the small side but there’s a fine sitting room commanding views over the waterfront. £99
LanesAshley Lane, SO41 3RH 01590 672777, lanesoflymington.com. Set in an old chapel and former school, with some tables on an internal balcony, this bright buzzy restaurant and bar serves locally sourced fish and meats (£16–24) including halibut steak, rack of lamb and less pricey burgers (£13). Tues–Sat 11.30am–2.30pm & 6.30–9.30pm.
The Haven King Saltern Rd, SO41 3QD 01590 679971, havenrestaurant.co.uk. Wedged among the luxury yachts in Lymington harbour, this is, not surprisingly, a favoured haunt for the local sailing fraternity. The smart but laidback café-restaurant has a nautical-themed bar area, tables inside and a great raised terrace with views across the Solent. Fresh fish is the speciality, with dishes such as seafood bouillabaisse (£18.50), or swordfish steaks (£19.50), though it also does burgers and steaks. Daily 8am–midnight (food served until 9.30pm).
Stanwell House 14–15 High St, SO41 9AA 01590 677123, stanwellhousehotel.co.uk. The most upmarket choice in town, this handsome boutique-style hotel has an array of individually designed rooms boasting roll-top baths, flatscreen TVs and the like. Its main restaurant, Burcher & Co, is also the top spot to eat, in a dining room with a distinctly colonial feel (mains from around £16); there is also a less formal bistro serving modern European cuisine, and light snacks and afternoon teas are also available. Daily 7am–9pm. £135
You’ll frequently find New Forest ponies strolling down the High Street of BROCKENHURST, undoubtedly the most attractive and liveliest town in the forest. Surrounded by idyllic heath- and woodland and with a ford at one end of the High Street, it’s a picturesque spot and a useful travel hub.
Arrival and departure Brockenhurst
By train The station is on the eastern edge of town – from here, turn left and left again onto Brookley Rd, and you’ll find the bulk of shops, banks and places to eat and drink. Mainline services run every 15–20min from/to Southampton (15–20min), Winchester (30min) and London Waterloo (1hr 30min). In addition, a branch line runs to Lymington (every 30min; 10min) to link with the Isle of Wight ferry.
The Pig Beaulieu Rd, SO42 7QL 01590 622354, thepighotel.co.uk. Brockhenhurst’s best restaurant by a mile is in a fabulous New Forest country house with chic rooms, set in stunning grounds. The innovative menu uses ingredients from its gardens or from the surrounding area – fish is smoked on site, eggs come from its own chickens, and the herbs and vegetables are home-grown. All the ingredients are sourced from within 25 miles and the results, such as New Forest wood pigeon with locally foraged mushrooms (around £16), are delicious. Daily 12.30–2.30pm & 6.30–9.30pm.£185
Rosie Lee 6 Brookley Rd, SO42 7RBA 01590 622797. Lovely tearoom serving delicious and inexpensive home-made cakes and tasty sandwiches on vintage china. You can sit outside – they provide blankets and hot water bottles when it’s cold – or at one of the cosy tables inside; dogs welcome.Daily 9am–4.30pm.
Renowned for its pristine sandy beach (one of southern England’s cleanest) and its gardens, the resort of BOURNEMOUTH dates from 1811, when a local squire, Louis Tregonwell, built a summerhouse on the wild, unpopulated heathland that once occupied this stretch of coast, and planted the first of the pine trees that now characterize the area. The mild climate, sheltered site and glorious beach encouraged the rapid growth of a full-scale family-holiday resort, complete with piers, cliff railways and boat trips. Today Bournemouth has a rather genteel image, counterbalanced by a thriving university scene.
Bournemouth’s beach spreads either side of the Victorian pier, which was built in 1880, then extended in 1894 and 1909 to more than 300m long, and used as a landing stage for steamers. Today, it’s home to the usual arcades and amusements plus the world’s first pier-to-shore zipwire, a quick but exhilarating ride with dual wires so you can race down with a friend (April–Sept £18; Oct–March £15; rockreef.co.uk/pier).
Russell-Cotes Rd, East Cliff, BH1 3AA • Tues–Sun & bank hols 10am–5pm • April–Sept £6; Oct–March free • 01202 451858, russellcotes.com
Surrounded by lovely gardens on a clifftop, the Russell-Cotes Art Gallery and Museum has one of the UK’s best collections of Victoriana, collected from around the world by the wealthy Russell-Cotes family. The quirky assortment of artworks, Asian souvenirs and curios, such as the ornate loo used by royal mistress Lily Langtry, are displayed in an ornately decorated mansion, once the family home. Highlights of the collection are Rossetti’s Venus Verticordia (1864) and England’s most important collection of Victorian nudes, which scandalized much of society at the time.
Hinton Rd, BH1 2EE • 01202 290986, stpetersbournemouth.org.uk
In the centre of town, the graveyard of St Peter’s Church is where Mary Shelley, author of Gothic horror tale Frankenstein, is buried, together with the heart of her husband, the Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley. The tombs of Mary’s parents – radical thinker William Godwin and early feminist Mary Wollstonecraft – are also in the graveyard.
Arrival and information Bournemouth
By train The station is about a mile inland, connected to the town centre and seafront by frequent buses, or you can walk there in around 15–20min.
Destinations Brockenhurst (every 15–20min; 15–25min); Dorchester (every 30min–1hr; 45min); London Waterloo (every 30min; 2hr); Poole (every 20min; 10min); Southampton (every 15–20min; 30min–1hr 10min); Weymouth (hourly; 55min); Winchester (every 15min; 45min–1hr).
By bus Opposite the train station (see above).
Destinations Direct National Express buses run to London (hourly; 2hr 30min); Southampton (hourly; 45min–1hr); Weymouth (5 daily; 1hr 15min–1hr 20min); and Winchester (8 daily; 1hr 20min–1hr 55min).
Tourist office Pier Approach (Jan–March & Nov–Dec daily 10am–4pm; April–June & Sept–Oct daily 10am–5pm; July–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–5pm; 01202 451734, bournemouth.co.uk).
Beach Lodges Seafront Promenade, Boscombe, BH5 1BN 01202 451781, bournemouthbeachlodges.co.uk. If you want to sleep right on the beach, opt for these deluxe beach huts which sleep up to six and come complete with hot showers, loos, fridges and kitchens. Set back slightly from the promenade, they boast terrific views. There are good low-season discounts, and with their own heating, they’re magical even in winter. Minimum three-night stay. £210
The Greenhouse Hotel4 Grove Rd, BH1 3AX 01202 498900, thegreenhousehotel.co.uk. Boutique-style, eco-friendly hotel in a Grade II listed Victorian villa a short walk from the town centre. The stylish rooms come with all the latest mod cons, ultra-comfy beds, and free home-made biscuits. The environmental standards are very high – water is solar-heated, and much of the electricity is generated on site. There’s also an excellent bar and restaurant. £160
Urban Beach Hotel23 Argyll Rd, Boscombe, BH5 1EB 01202 301509, urbanbeachhotel.co.uk. A short (but steep) walk from Boscombe’s beach, and close to the shops, this old Victorian townhouse has been given a boutique makeover. There’s a variety of rooms, all of them stylish with designer furniture, comfy beds and DVDs. The downstairs bar/restaurant serves great cocktails. £145
Koh Thai TapasDaimler House, 38–40 Poole Hill, BH2 5PS 01202 294723, koh-thai.co.uk. Lively restaurant done out with stylish Thai decor – all dark-wood furniture, comfy sofas and fresh orchids. The Thai food is beautifully presented and can be ordered in tapas size (£6–8.50) or full portions. Mains (£8–18) include Thai curries, stir fries and noodles. The cocktails are great too. Mon 5.30–10pm, Tues–Sun 12.30–3pm & 5.30–10pm.
Sixty Million Postcards 19–21 Exeter Rd, BH2 5AF 01202 292697, sixtymillionpostcards.com. One of Bournemouth’s best bars, attracting an unpretentious but trendy student crowd. There are board games, various alcoves for cosy chats and comfy sofas. Offers a good range of beers, drinks and good-value burgers, with occasional DJs and live music. Mon–Thurs noon–midnight, Fri & Sat noon–2am, Sun 11am–midnight.
Urban Reef Undercliff Drive, Boscombe, BH5 1BN 01202 443960, urbanreef.com. Art Deco-style restaurant/bar/café in a fabulous position on Boscombe seafront. Designed to give great sea views from both floors, its quirky decor features a mock-up beach hut hanging on the wall, and there’s a large deck for drinks on the front and an adjacent takeaway serving wood-fired pizzas (£10). Food varies from cooked breakfast (£8.50) to New Forest mushroom risotto (£12) and pan-seared salmon (£17). Daily 8am–10pm.
West Beach Pier Approach, BH2 5AA 01202 587785, west-beach.co.uk. Close to the pier, this seafood restaurant has a prime position on the beach, with decking out on the promenade. It’s smart and stylish, and you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Fish and seafood dishes start at around £18, and there are also some meat and veg dishes. Daily 9am–10pm; closed Mon eves in winter.
An ancient town on the banks of the River Stour, just a few minutes’ drive north from the suburbs of Bournemouth, WIMBORNE MINSTER is an attractive little town, worth an hour or two’s wander around its narrow alleys, or along the riverbank. It’s home to southern England’s largest covered market (Fri–Sun; wimbornemarket.co.uk), though its main point of interest is the great church, the Minster of St Cuthberga.
High St, BH21 1HT • Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 2.30–5.30pm; Chained Library Easter–Oct Mon 2–4pm, Tues–Fri 10.30am–12.30pm & 2–4pm; phone for winter opening times • Free • 01202 884753, wimborneminster.org.uk
Built on the site of an eighth-century monastery, the Minster of St Cuthberga’s massive twin towers of mottled grey and tawny stone dwarf the rest of town. At one time the church was even more imposing – its spire crashed down during morning service in 1602. What remains today is basically Norman with later additions, such as the Perpendicular west tower; this bears a figure dressed as a grenadier of the Napoleonic era, who strikes every quarter-hour with a hammer. The Chained Library above the choir vestry, dating from 1686, is Wimborne’s most prized possession and one of the oldest public libraries in the country. Its collection of ancient books includes a manuscript written on lambskin dating from 1343.
2 miles northwest of Wimborne Minster; BH21 4EA • House Mid-March to Oct Wed–Sun 11am–5pm; Nov to mid-March 11am–4pm • £12.70 (includes grounds); NT • Grounds Daily: mid-March to Oct 10am–6pm; Nov to mid-March 10am–4pm • £7 • 01202 883402, nationaltrust.org.uk/kingston-lacy
The glorious seventeenth-century mansion of Kingston Lacy stands in 250 acres of parkland grazed by a herd of Red Devon cattle. Designed for the Bankes family, who were exiled from Corfe Castle after the Roundheads reduced it to rubble, the brick building was clad in grey stone during the nineteenth century by Sir Charles Barry, co-architect of the Houses of Parliament. William Bankes, then owner of the house, was a great traveller and collector, and the Spanish Room is a superb scrapbook of his Grand Tour souvenirs. Kingston Lacy’s picture collection is also outstanding, featuring Titian, Rubens, Velázquez and many other old masters.
CHRISTCHURCH, five miles east of Bournemouth, is best known for Christchurch Priory (Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 2.15–5.30pm; donation requested; 01202 485804, christchurchpriory.org), England’s longest parish church at 311ft. The oldest parts date back to 1094, and its fan-vaulted North Porch is impressively large. Fine views can be gained from the top of the 120ft-high tower (£3; call ahead to book).
The area round the old town quay has a carefully preserved charm, with the Red House Museum on Quay Road (Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm; free; 01202 482860, www.hampshireculturaltrust.org.uk) containing an affectionate collection of local memorabilia. Boat trips (Easter–Oct daily; 01202 429119, bournemouthboating.co.uk) leave from the grassy banks of the riverside quay, heading east to the sandspit at Mudeford (30min; £8 return) or upriver to Tuckton (15min; £3 return).
Arrival and information Christchurch
By train Christchurch is on the main London Waterloo to Weymouth line; the train station is on Stour Rd, a mile north of the town centre.
By bus Local buses from Bournemouth in the east, Lymington in the west and Ringwood in the north pull up at the bus stop close to the tourist office.
Tourist office Regent Centre, 51 High St (Mon 9am–4.30pm, Tues–Sat 10am–4.30pm; 01202 499199, visitdorset.com).
The Boathouse 9 Quay Rd, BH23 1BU 01202 480033, boathouse.co.uk. This modern café-bar/restaurant is in a lovely location overlooking the river with a large outdoor terrace, and a modern wood-burner inside. Main courses include salmon and monkfish skewers with couscous (£16.50) or Cornish mussels and chips (£15.50), as well as a selection of tasty stone-baked pizzas (£11–13). Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–9pm, Fri & Sat 9am–10pm.
The JettyChristchurch Harbour Hotel, 95 Mudeford, BH23 3NT 01202 400950, thejetty.co.uk. Renowned chef Alex Aitken uses local seasonal produce in this contemporary wooden restaurant with stunning views of Christchurch harbour. Interesting main courses include a mixed fish grill served with garlic and seaweed mayonnaise (£24.50), and the local-produce lunch/early-evening menu is good value at £25 for three courses. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6–10pm, Sun noon–8pm.
Ye Olde George Inn 2a Castle St, BH23 1DT 01202 479383, yeoldegeorgeinnchristchurch.co.uk. Christchurch’s oldest pub, the George is an attractive former coaching inn with a great courtyard garden, and a warren of small rooms inside. Serves reasonably priced pub grub (from £11), tasty pizzas (£7–10) and a selection of real ales. Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight; kitchen daily noon–10pm.
West of Bournemouth, POOLE is an ancient seaport on a huge, almost landlocked harbour. The town developed in the thirteenth century and was successively colonized by pirates, fishermen and timber traders. The old quarter by the quayside contains more than one hundred historic buildings, as well as the contemporary Poole Museum.
4 Old High St, BH15 1BW • Easter–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Easter Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm • Free • 01202 262600, poolemuseum.co.uk
Poole Museum traces the town’s development through the centuries, with displays of local ceramics and a rare Iron Age log boat that was dug out of the harbour in 1964: carved out of a single tree trunk, the 33ft-long boat dates from around 300 BC. Look out, too, for the fascinating footage of the flying boats that took off from Poole harbour during the 1940s for east Asia and Australia.
BH13 7EE • Feb & March Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; April–Oct daily 10am–5pm • £6.75; NT • 01202 707744, nationaltrust.org.uk/brownsea-island • Access by boat: Feb & March from Sandbanks only (Sat & Sun 10am–4pm, every 30min); April–Oct from Sandbanks and Poole Quay (daily 10am–5pm, every 30min); from Sandbanks £6.50 return, from Poole Quay £10.75 return
Brownsea Island is famed for its red squirrels, wading birds and other wildlife, which you can spot on themed trails. The landscape is surprisingly diverse for a small island, much of it heavily wooded, though with areas of heath and marsh, and narrow, shingly beaches too. It’s pretty easy to escape from the boat-trippers and find a peaceful corner to picnic.
164 Canford Cliffs Rd, BH13 7ES • Daily: Easter–Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–Easter 10am–4pm; last entry 1hr before closing • £8.45 • 01202 700778, comptonacres.co.uk • Bus #50 from Bournemouth and #52 from Poole
One of the area’s best-known gardens, Compton Acres, lies on the outskirts of Poole. Spectacularly sited over ten acres on steep slopes above Poole Harbour, the five gardens are internationally theme, including a formal Italian garden and an elegantly understated Japanese one, its meandering streams crossed by stone steps and wooden bridges.
Arrival and information Poole
By train Poole’s train station is on Serpentine Rd, about a 15min walk from the waterfront along the High St.
Destinations Bournemouth (every 20min; 10min); London Waterloo (every 30min; 2hr–2hr 10min); Weymouth (every 30min; 35–45min).
By bus The bus station is in front of the Dolphin Centre on Kingland Rd, with regular National Express services to London Victoria (11 daily; 3–4hr).
Tourist office At Poole Museum, 4 High St (April–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; 01202 262600 pooletourism.com).
Hotel du Vin Thames St, BH15 1JN 01202 685666, hotelduvin.com. Inside a fine old mansion with a double staircase, this stylish hotel has plush, comfortable rooms, an atmospheric restaurant and wine cellar, and a very cosy bar with its own log fire – great in winter. The location is ideal, in the pretty old town, a minute’s walk from the Quay. £160
The Old Townhouse 7 High St, BH15 1AB 01202 670950, theoldtownhouse.co.uk. Attractive little Victorian-style B&B in a great location opposite the museum, with a wood-panelled tearoom/breakfast room on the ground floor. The decor in the four rooms may be rather traditional, but they are spotless and comfortable – one has its own terrace – and the owners go out of their way to be helpful. £95
Deli on the Quay Unit D17 Dolphin Quays, The Quay, BH15 1HH 01202 660022, delionthequay.com. Bright, light harbourfront café-deli stacked with delicious preserves, wines and the like. The café serves fresh croissants, sandwiches and decent coffee. Mon & Wed–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Tues 8.30am–8pm, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; Nov–March closes 4pm Mon–Fri.
The Guildhall Tavern 15 Market Street, BH15 1NB, 01202 671717, guildhalltavern.co.uk. Fantastic French seafood restaurant with marine-themed decor and a small patio at the back, serving local fish and shellfish – scallops, crab, lobster and oysters among them – as well as traditional French dishes such as snails in garlic butter (six for £7) and boeuf bourguignon (£18). There’s a very reasonable lunchtime set menu (two courses for £17, three for £20.50). Tues–Thurs 11.30am–3.30pm & 6–9.30pm, Fri & Sat 11.30am–3.30pm & 5.30–10pm.
Karma 22 High St, BH15 1BP 01202 6701818, karma-mediterranean.co.uk. Atmospheric dining room with quirky decor, bare brick arches and wooden tables. The food is Mediterranean/Middle Eastern; the tasty meze include aubergine dip and falafel (starter platter to share £16), and there are mains such as hearty grills (chicken or lamb kebab and rice), moussaka and kleftiko (£14–16). Tues–Thurs 5.30–9pm, Fri & Sat 5.30–10pm.
Poole Arms 19 The Quay, BH15 1HJ 01202 673450 poolearms.co.uk. Completely covered with green tiles, this wonderfully atmospheric sixteenth-century pub is reassuringly old-fashioned, with decent beers and great fish dishes (£11–15). There’s outdoor seating facing the waterfront, too. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun noon–11pm; kitchen daily noon–9pm.
Though not actually an island, the ISLE OF PURBECK – a promontory of low hills and heathland jutting out beyond Poole Harbour – does have an insular and distinctive feel. Reached from the east by the ferry from Sandbanks at the narrow mouth of Poole Harbour, or by a long and congested landward journey via the bottleneck of Wareham, Purbeck can be a difficult destination to reach, but its villages are immensely pretty, none more so than Corfe Castle, with its majestic ruins. From Swanage, a low-key seaside resort, the Dorset Coast Path provides access to the oily shales of Kimmeridge Bay, the spectacular cove at Lulworth and the much-photographed natural arch of Durdle Door.
The whole coast from Purbeck to Exmouth in Devon – dubbed the Jurassic Coast (jurassiccoast.org) – is a World Heritage Site on account of its geological significance and fossil remains; walkers can access it along the South West Coast Path.
Arrival and getting around The Isle of Purbeck
By ferry There are regular ferries from Sandbanks (7am–11pm every 20min; pedestrians & bikes £1, cars £4.30; 01929 450203, sandbanksferry.co.uk).
By train Wareham is the only place served by mainline trains, though a steam train also runs between Swanage and Norden. The train track has now been fully restored between Swanage and Wareham, with a trial diesel service running the full route (see swanagerailway.co.uk for details of schedule).
By bus The Purbeck Breezer (morebus.co.uk) runs two services around the Purbecks – route #40 from Poole to Swanage via Wareham and Corfe Castle, and route #50 from Bournemouth to Swanage via the Sandbanks ferry and Studland. In summer, some services are open-top.
By bike Cycling is a great way to get around, though be prepared for steep hills; bikes can be rented from Cycle Experience at Norden Car Park, Corfe Castle (01929 481606, purbeckcyclehire.co.uk) and Charlie the Bikemonger, 5 Queen’s Rd, Swanage (01929 475833, charliethebikemonger.com).
The grid pattern of its streets indicates the Saxon origins of WAREHAM, and the town is surrounded by even older earth ramparts known as the Walls. A riverside setting adds greatly to its charms, though the place gets fairly overrun in summer. Nearby lies an enclave of quaint houses around Lady St Mary’s Church, which contains the marble coffin of Edward the Martyr, murdered at Corfe Castle in 978 (possibly by his stepmother, to make way for her son Ethelred).
St Martin’s Church, at the north end of town, dates from Saxon times and contains a faded twelfth-century mural of St Martin offering his cloak to a beggar. The church’s most striking feature, however, is a romantic effigy of T.E. Lawrence in Arab dress, which was originally destined for Salisbury Cathedral, but was rejected by the dean there who disapproved of Lawrence’s sexual proclivities. Lawrence was killed in 1935 in a motorbike accident on the road from Bovington (six miles west); his simply furnished cottage is at Clouds Hill, seven miles northwest of Wareham (late May to Oct daily 11am–5pm; £6.30, NT; 01929 405616, nationaltrust.org.uk/clouds-hill). The small Wareham Town Museum, next to Wareham’s town hall on East Street (Easter–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; free; 01929 553448, greenacre.info/WTM) focuses on local history and Lawrence memorabilia.
Arrival and information Wareham
By train Wareham station, a 15min walk north of the town, sees regular trains from London (every 30min; 2hr 20min) and Weymouth (every 20–40min; 25–35min), with a limited train service to Swanage.
Tourist office Wareham Library, South St (Easter–Oct Mon 10am–5pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–5pm; Nov–Easter Mon 10am–4pm, Tues–Sat 9.30am–4pm; 01929 552740, visit-dorset.com).
The Square, Corfe Castle, BH20 5EZ • Daily: March & Oct 10am–5pm; April–Sept 10am–6pm; Nov–Feb 10am–4pm • £9; NT • 01929 481294, nationaltrust.org.uk/corfe-castle • A few minutes’ walk from Corfe Castle station (on the Swanage Steam Railway)
The romantic ruins of Corfe Castle, crowning the hill behind the village of the same name, are perhaps the most evocative in England. The family seat of Sir John Bankes, Attorney General to Charles I, this Royalist stronghold withstood a Cromwellian siege for six weeks, gallantly defended by Lady Bankes. One of her own men, Colonel Pitman, eventually betrayed the castle to the Roundheads, after which it was reduced to its present gap-toothed state by gunpowder. Apparently the victorious Roundheads were so impressed by Lady Bankes’ courage that they allowed her to take the keys to the castle with her – they can still be seen in the library at her subsequent home, Kingston Lacy.
Accommodation Corfe Castle
Mortons House 45 East St, BH20 5EE 01929 480988, mortonshouse.co.uk. In a sixteenth-century manor house with a beautiful walled garden and log fires in winter, this award-winning small hotel has snug rooms, some with four-poster beds and stone fireplaces. The restaurant offers top local cuisine. £160
Norden FarmNorden, BH20 5DS, 1 mile from Corfe Castle 01929 480098, nordenfarm.com. Tucked into a tranquil valley, this working farm has extensive fields for tents and caravans, good facilities, its own shop and a menagerie of animals. Closed Nov–Feb. £14.50
The Greyhound The Square, BH20 5EZ 01929 480205, greyhoundcorfe.co.uk. One of England’s oldest coaching inns, with frequent live music and a pleasant garden at the back with views of the castle. The food is good, with simple dishes such as pulled pork sandwiches or fish and chips (£9–14), and more elaborate meals like langoustine risotto (£16). Daily 11am–11pm; kitchen Mon–Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon–8pm.
The Scott ArmsWest St, Kingston, BH20 5LH, 2 miles from Corfe Castle 01929 480270, thescottarms.com. In the neighbouring village, a steep climb above Corfe Castle, this is a wonderful old inn with a warren of cosy rooms at the front and a large, modern-looking back room that doubles as its restaurant. The biggest draw is its garden, which commands a stupendous view over Corfe Castle in the valley below. The food is substantial, varied and good value at around £13 for mains; in summer the Jerk Shak sells fantastic Caribbean food in the garden.Daily 11am–11pm; kitchen Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 6–8.30pm, Sat & Sun noon–2.45pm & 6–8.45pm.
Purbeck’s largest town, SWANAGE, is a traditional seaside resort with a pleasant sandy beach and an ornate town hall. The town’s station is the southern terminus of the Swanage Steam Railway (April–Oct daily; Nov– March Sat, Sun & school hols; £12.50 return; 01929 425800, swanagerailway.co.uk), which runs for six miles to Norden, just north of Corfe Castle. There are plans to extend the service to Wareham. West of Swanage, you can pick up the coastal path to Durlston Country Park, (daily sunrise–sunset; free) around a mile out of town. Set in 280 acres of coastal woodland and crisscrossed with clifftop paths, it’s a great place for a picnic or for wind-blown walks.
Accommodation Swanage and around
The Swanage Haven 3 Victoria Rd, BH19 1LY 01929 423088, swanagehaven.com. Good-value boutique guesthouse: the smart rooms have flatscreen TVs and the decked garden has a great outdoor hot tub. Breakfasts are made from locally sourced ingredients. No children. £90
Tom’s Field Campsite Langton Matravers, BH19 3HN, a couple of miles west of Swanage 01929 427110, tomsfieldcamping.co.uk. Wonderfully sited and well run, this is the best campsite in the region, with sea views from some pitches and direct access to the coast path. It also lets out bunks in a converted Nissen hut (the Walker’s Barn) and pigsty (the Stone Room) and there’s a well-stocked shop. Only takes reservations for longer stays – turn up early to bag a pitch. Walker’s Barn £13, camping £16, Stone Room £30
Gee Whites The Old Stone Quay, 1 High St, BH19 2LN 01929 425720, geewhites.co.uk. Fashionable seafood bar right on the quay serving local lobster, crabs, mussels and oysters. The menu changes daily according to what’s been caught (most dishes £7–10), but usually features the likes of moules marinières, tempura prawns and dressed crab. Summer daily 9am–9.30pm; rest of year hours are weather dependent.
Seventh Wave Durlston Castle & Country Park, Lighthouse Rd, BH19 2JL 01929 421111, 7eventhwave.com. Inside Durlston Castle with stunning coastal views, this is an unmissable stop – either for a coffee, snack or full meal. There are paninis and sandwiches for around £7.50, fresh fish or mains for £11–15, and cream teas for £10. Easter–Sept Mon–Thurs & Sun 9.30am–4pm, Fri & Sat 9.30am–4pm & 6–9pm; Oct–Easter daily 9.30am–4pm.
Square and Compass Worth Matravers, BH19 3LF, 4 miles west of Swanage 01929 439229, squareandcompasspub.co.uk. In a quintessential Purbeck village, with views over the surrounding Downs and sea, this is one of England’s finest pubs: the bar is a tiny hatch, the interior is a winter fug of log fires, walkers and dogs (and the occasional live band), while outside there’s a motley collection of stone seats and wooden benches. Regularly winning CAMRA awards for its local ales and ciders, and with its own little fossil museum, it also serves delicious home-made pies. April–Sept daily noon–11pm; Oct–March Mon–Thurs noon–3pm & 6–11pm, Fri–Sun noon–11pm.
East of Swanage, you can follow the South West Coast Path over Ballard Down to descend into the pretty village of STUDLAND at the southern end of Studland Bay. The most northerly stretch of the beach, Shell Bay, is a magnificent strand of icing-sugar sand backed by a remarkable heathland ecosystem, home to all six British species of reptile – adders are quite common, so be careful. On Middle Beach, you can hire kayaks from the Studland Sea School (01929 450430, studlandseaschool.co.uk), or take one of their excellent guided kayak or snorkelling tours round Old Harry Rocks, through rock arches.
Shutterstock
OSBORNE HOUSE, ISLE OF WIGHT
Accommodation and eating Studland
Bankes ArmsManor Rd, BH19 3AU 01929 450225, bankesarms.com. Lovely location, good food, and a great range of real ales, some from local breweries and others from its own on-site Purbeck Brewery. The pub food costs slightly more than average, but the portions are big, and frankly it’s worth it for the joy of sitting in the grassy front garden with fantastic bay views, or by the roaring log fire in the cosy Purbeck stone interior. Daily 11am–11pm; kitchen May–Sept Mon–Sat noon–9.30pm & Sun noon–9pm, Oct–April daily noon–9pm.
The Pig on the BeachStudland Bay, BH19 3AU 01929 450288, thepighotel.com. An eighteenth-century manor house in a fantastic location, renovated in The Pig’s signature shabby-chic style, with lovely gardens leading down to the sea. Stay in the very comfortable rooms – some have sea views, all have luxurious showers – or a converted shepherd’s hut in the grounds (£240). The restaurant is great too, specializing in locally caught or foraged ingredients, plus herbs and veg grown here – expect dishes such as south coast hake with marsh samphire (£18); it’s very popular, so book ahead. Daily noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9.30pm.£180
The quaint thatch-and-stone villages of EAST LULWORTH and WEST LULWORTH form a prelude to Lulworth Cove, a perfect shell-shaped bite formed when the sea broke through a weakness in the cliffs and then gnawed away at them from behind, forming a circular cave that eventually collapsed to leave a bay enclosed by sandstone cliffs. West of the cove is Stair Hole, a roofless sea cave riddled with arches that will eventually collapse to form another Lulworth Cove. The mysteries of local geology are explained at the Lulworth Heritage Centre (daily 10am–5pm; free) by the car park at the top of the lane leading down to the cove.
A mile west of Lulworth Cove, the iconic limestone arch of Durdle Door can be reached via the steep uphill path starting at Lulworth Cove’s car park. The arch itself sits at the end of a long shingle beach (accessed via steep steps), a lovely place for catching the sun and swimming in fresh, clear water. There are further steps to a bay just east of Durdle Door, St Oswald’s Bay, with another shingle beach and offshore rocks that you can swim out to.
Accommodation and eating Lulworth Cove and around
Castle Inn 8 Main Rd, West Lulworth, BH20 5RN 01929 400311, thecastleinn-lulworthcove.co.uk. This sixteenth-century thatched pub has a lovely terraced garden, a range of local real ales and a selection of traditional pub games. High-quality pub grub features home-made steak and ale pie (£14) and salmon steaks (£13). Very dog-friendly. Daily noon–10pm; kitchen daily noon–9pm.
Durdle Door Holiday ParkWest Lulworth, BH20 5PU 01929 400200, lulworth.com. Superbly positioned up on the cliffs above Durdle Door, this campsite has fabulous views from its touring field, while tents can be pitched in the more sheltered wooded field. It’s a 20min walk across fields to Lulworth Cove and there’s also a shop and café-bar on site. £42
Lulworth Cove Inn Main Rd, Lulworth Cove, BH20 5RQ 01929 400333, lulworth-coveinn.co.uk. With a great location right on the main street leading down to the cove and overlooking the duck pond, this is the first choice in Lulworth itself – try to bag one of the front rooms, with their own cove-view terraces (£10 extra). The pub downstairs offers local Blandford ales, real fires, a pleasant garden and decent food, including steak and ale pie (£13.50) and smoked mackerel (£11.50). Daily 11am–11pm; kitchen noon–9pm.£110
For many, DORCHESTER, county town of Dorset, is essentially Thomas Hardy’s town; he was born at Higher Bockhampton, three miles east, his heart is buried in Stinsford, a couple of miles northeast (the rest of him is in Westminster Abbey), and he spent much of his life in Dorchester itself. The town appears in his novels as Casterbridge, and the local countryside is evocatively depicted, notably the wild heathland of the east (Egdon Heath) and the eerie yew forest of Cranborne Chase. The real Dorchester – liveliest on Wednesday, market day – has a pleasant central core of mostly seventeenth-century and Georgian buildings, though the town’s origins go back to the Romans, who founded “Durnovaria” in about 70 AD. The Roman walls were replaced in the eighteenth century by tree-lined avenues called “Walks”, but some traces of the Roman period have survived. On the southeast edge of town, Maumbury Rings is where the Romans held vast gladiatorial combats in an amphitheatre adapted from a Stone Age site.
In addition to its Hardy connections, Dorchester is associated with the notorious Judge Jeffreys, who, after the ill-fated rebellion of the Duke of Monmouth (one of Charles II’s illegitimate offspring) against James II, held his “Bloody Assizes” in the Oak Room of the former Antelope Hotel on Cornhill in 1685. A total of 292 men were sentenced to death; most got away with a flogging and transportation to the West Indies, but 74 were hung, drawn and quartered, their heads stuck on pikes throughout Dorset and Somerset.
58–60 High St, DT1 1UZ • Daily 10am–5pm • £8, ticket valid for one year • 01305 267992
Shire Hall, also known as the Old Crown Courts, are where the Tolpuddle Martyrs, were sentenced to transportation for forming what was in effect Britain’s first trade union. The room in which the Martyrs were tried (and where Thomas Hardy later served as a magistrate) has been preserved almost unchanged from when it first opened in 1796; it is now the centrepiece of a fascinating courthouse museum, with changing exhibitions and events linked to the history of justice. You can also visit the original cells.
High West St, DT1 1XA • April–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm (daily in school summer hols); Nov–March Mon–Sat 10am–4pm • £6.35 • 01305 262735, dorsetcountymuseum.org
The best place to find out about Dorchester’s history is the engrossing Victorian Dorset County Museum, where archeological and geological displays trace Celtic and Roman history, including a section on nearby Maiden Castle and a Jurassic Coast gallery, complete with fossils and animated flying dinosaurs. Pride of place goes to the re-creation of Thomas Hardy’s study – his pens are inscribed with the names of the books he wrote with them. In early 2018, the museum was the first venue to host London’s Natural History Museum’s diplodocus skeleton (aka Dippy) on its nationwide tour, in advance of a substantial renovation project. Parts of the museum will be closed during the construction of a £13 million extension, including new galleries, a library and a café, due to open in 2020.
Around 2 miles southwest of Dorchester, DT2 9EY • Daily 24hr • Free; EH • www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/maiden-castle
One of southern England’s finest prehistoric sites, covering about 115 acres, is MAIDEN CASTLE. It was first developed around 3000 BC by a Stone Age farming community and then used during the Bronze Age as a funeral mound. Iron Age dwellers expanded it into a populous settlement and fortified it with a daunting series of ramparts and ditches, just in time for the arrival of Vespasian’s Second Legion. The ancient Britons’ slingstones were no match for the more sophisticated weapons of the Roman invaders, however, and Maiden Castle was stormed in a massacre in 43 AD. What you see today is a massive series of grassy concentric ridges about 60ft high, creasing the surface of the hill. The main finds from the site are displayed in the Dorset County Museum.
Cerne Abbas, 7 miles north of Dorchester, DT2 7AL • Daily 24hr • Free; NT • 01297 489481, nationaltrust.org.uk/cerne-giant
The village of CERNE ABBAS has bags of charm, with gorgeous Tudor cottages and abbey ruins, but its main attraction is the enormously priapic Cerne Abbas giant carved in the chalk hillside just north of the village, standing 180ft high and brandishing a club over his disproportionately small head. The age of the monument is disputed, though it is likely that the giant originated as some primeval fertility symbol. Folklore has it that lying on the outsize member will induce conception, but the National Trust, who now own the site, do their best to stop people wandering over it and damaging the 2ft-deep trenches that form the outlines. Although you can walk round the giant, the carving itself is fenced off to avoid erosion and you don’t get the full impact when you are so close – for the best view, follow signs to the car park and viewpoint on the hillside opposite.
Tolpuddle, DT2 7EH, 8 miles east of Dorchester • April–Oct Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm; Nov–March Thurs–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–4pm • Free • 01305 848237, tolpuddlemartyrs.org.uk
The delightful Dorset village of TOLPUDDLE is of interest principally because of the Tolpuddle Martyrs. In 1834, six villagers, George and James Loveless, Thomas and John Standfield, John Brine and James Hammett, were sentenced to transportation for banding together to form the Friendly Society of Agricultural Labourers, in order to petition for a small wage increase on the grounds that their families were starving. The men spent three years in Australia’s penal colonies before being pardoned following a public outcry – and the Martyrs passed into history as founders of the trade union movement. Six memorial cottages were built in 1934 to commemorate the centenary of the Martyrs’ conviction. The middle one has been turned into the little Tolpuddle Martyrs Museum, which charts the story of the men, from their harsh rural lives before their conviction to the horrors of transportation in a convict ship and the brutal conditions of the penal colonies.
Arrival and information Dorchester and around
By train Dorchester has two train stations, Dorchester South and Dorchester West, both south of the centre.
Destinations (Dorchester South) Bournemouth (every 30min; 40–45min); London Waterloo (every 30min; 2hr 35min–2hr 50min); Weymouth (every 15–30min; 10–15min).
Destinations (Dorchester West) Bath (5 daily; 2hr); Bristol (5 daily; 2hr 10min–2hr 25 min).
By bus Most local buses stop around the car park on Acland Rd, to the east of South St, though long-distance buses pull in next to Dorchester South train station.
Destinations Bournemouth (4 daily; 1hr–1hr 45min); London Victoria (1 daily; 4hr); Weymouth (at least hourly; 25min–1hr).
Tourist Information Centre Dorchester Library, South Walks House, Charles St (April–Oct Mon 10am–5.30pm, Tues & Fri 9.30am–7pm, Wed 9.30am–1pm, Thurs 9.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–4pm; Nov–March Mon 10am–4pm, Tues, Thurs & Fri 9.30am–4pm, Wed 9.30am–1pm, Sat 9am–4pm; 01305 267992, visit-dorset.com).
The Old Rectory Winterbourne Steepleton, DT2 9LG, 4 miles west of Dorchester 01305 889468, theoldrectorybandb.co.uk. A lovely former rectory from 1850 in a tiny, pretty village. The B&B has four comfortable en-suite rooms, one with a four-poster, and attractive gardens. £80
Westwood House 29 High West St, DT1 1UP 01305 268018, westwoodhouse.co.uk. Comfortable Georgian townhouse on the busy high street, with well-furnished rooms complete with flatscreen TVs. The breakfasts are great, and there’s an inexpensive car park nearby. £100
Potters Café 19 Durngate St, DT1 1JP 01305 260312. Very appealing café/restaurant with a log fire in winter and a small garden. It serves a range of inexpensive dishes such as fish soup, quiche and salads, as well as the likes of tempura red mullet (£10). Mon–Sat 9.30am–4pm, Sun 10am–2.30pm.
Sienna 36 High West St, DT1 1UP 01305 250022, siennadorchester.co.uk. Former Masterchef contestant Marcus Wilcox is the chef at this small upmarket restaurant which specializes in locally sourced British cuisine, with innovative dishes such as sea trout with artichoke and lamb with aubergine and yoghurt (£17–20). Wed–Fri noon–2pm & 7–9pm, Sat 10am–2pm & 7–9pm, Sun noon–3pm.
Yalbury and Yvons Café & Wine Bar Dukes Auction House, Brewery Square, DT1 1GA 01305 260185, ycscafe.com. In the modern cultural quarter of Brewery Square, this friendly café-restaurant serves a good range of sandwiches and pastries by day, and evening meals at weekends such as wild boar and faggots and Portland crab (mains £10–14).Mon–Thurs 8.30am–5pm, Fri & Sat 8.30am–11pm, Sun 9am–3pm.
Tucked away in the northwest corner of Dorset, ten miles north of Cerne Abbas, the pretty town of SHERBORNE was once the capital of Wessex, its church having cathedral status until Old Sarum usurped the bishopric in 1075.
3 Abbey Close, ST9 3LQ • Daily: April–Oct 8am–6pm; Nov–March 8am–4pm • Free, but donation welcome • 01935 812452, sherborneabbey.com
Sherborne’s former historical glory is embodied by the magnificent Abbey Church, founded in 705 and later becoming a Benedictine abbey. Most of its extant parts date from a rebuilding in the fifteenth century. Among the abbey church’s many tombs are those of Alfred the Great’s two brothers, Ethelred and Ethelbert, and the Elizabethan poet Thomas Wyatt, all in the northeast corner.
Sherborne boasts two “castles”, both associated with Sir Walter Raleigh. Queen Elizabeth I first leased, then gave, Raleigh the twelfth-century Old Castle, on Castletom (April–June, Sept & Oct daily 10am–5pm; July & Aug daily 10am–6pm; £4.30, EH; 03703 331181, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/sherborne-old-castle), but it seems that he despaired of feudal accommodation and built himself a more comfortably domesticated house, Sherborne Castle, in adjacent parkland accessed from New Road (April–Oct Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm, gardens 10am–6pm; castle and gardens £12, gardens only £6.50; 01935 812072, sherbornecastle.com). When Sir Walter fell from the queen’s favour by seducing her maid of honour, the Digby family acquired the house and have lived here ever since. The Old Castle fared less happily, and was pulverized by Cromwellian cannon fire for the obstinately Royalist leanings of its occupants.
Arrival and information Sherborne
By train The station is 5min south of the town centre, and is served by hourly trains between London and Exeter, with some services continuing on to Plymouth.
By bus Buses from Dorchester, Yeovil and Blandford Forum pull in outside the train station.
Tourist office 3 Tilton Court, Digby Rd (Mon–Sat: Easter–Aug 9am–5pm; Sept–Nov 9.30am–4pm; Dec–Easter 10am–3pm; 01935 815341, sherbornetown.com).
The Eastbury Long St, DT9 3BY 01935 813131, theeastburyhotel.co.uk. In a fine Georgian house, with its own highly regarded restaurant, bar and lovely walled gardens. The front rooms are on the small side; it’s worth paying extra for one of the executive rooms, which are spacious and boutique in feel, overlooking the gardens. The restaurant specializes in seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Daily noon–2pm & 6.30–9pm.£150
Oliver’s 19 Cheap St, DT9 3PU 01935 815005, oliverscoffeehouse.co.uk. With long wooden benches laid out in a former Victorian butcher’s, adorned with the original tiles, this friendly café-deli serves great cakes and coffee, accompanied by oodles of atmosphere. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Fifteen miles east of Sherborne on the A30, SHAFTESBURY perches on a spur of lumpy hills, with severe gradients on three sides of the town. On a clear day, views from the town are terrific – one of the best vantage points is Gold Hill, quaint, cobbled and very steep. At its crest, the Gold Hill Museum and Garden (April–Oct daily 10.30am–4pm; free; 01747 852157, goldhillmuseum.org.uk) displays items ranging from locally made buttons, for which the area was once renowned, to a mummified cat.
Pilgrims used to flock to Shaftesbury to pay homage to the bones of Edward the Martyr, which were brought to the abbey in 978, though now only the footings of the abbey church survive, just off the main street on Park Walk (April–Oct daily 10am–5pm; £3; 01747 852910, shaftesburyabbey.org.uk). St Peter’s Church on the marketplace is one of the few reminders of Shaftesbury’s medieval grandeur, when it boasted a castle, twelve churches and four market crosses.
Arrival and information Shaftesbury
By bus There are services from Salisbury (Mon–Sat 2–3 daily; 1hr 15min) and Blandford Forum (Mon–Sat 4 daily; 45min).
Tourist office 8 Bell St (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; 01747 853514, shaftesburydorset.com).
The Grosvenor ArmsThe Commons, SP7 8JA 01747 850580, grosvenorarms.co.uk. This former coaching inn in the centre of town has had a successful makeover into a buzzy, boutique-style hotel. The rooms are stylish, with comfy beds, coffee machines and flatscreen TVs, and the downstairs restaurant is good too, with a wood-fired pizza oven, plus local fish and meat dishes (£10–15). Daily noon–3pm & 6–10pm. £90
Number 5 Bimport 5 Bimport, SP7 8AT 01747 228490, fivebimport.co.uk. Small, friendly B&B in an attractive, classily renovated Georgian townhouse in the centre of Shaftesbury. There are just two rooms – the larger one opens onto the garden. £135
The Salt Cellar Gold Hill, SP7 8JW 01747 851838. Right at the top of the hill itself and with great views, this place serves inexpensive snacks and daily specials from around £8, including home-made pies, in the pillar-lined interior or at outdoor tables on the cobbles. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.
Whether George III’s passion for sea bathing was a symptom of his eventual madness is uncertain, but it was at WEYMOUTH in 1789 that he became the first reigning monarch to follow the craze. Sycophantic gentry rushed into the waves behind him, and soon the town, formerly a busy port, took on the elegant Georgian stamp that it bears today. Weymouth’s highlight, of course, is its long sandy beach, and it makes a lively family holiday destination in summer, reverting to a more sedate rhythm out of season.
Weymouth’s most imposing architectural heritage stands along the Esplanade, a dignified range of bow-fronted and porticoed buildings gazing out across the graceful bay. At the far southern end of the Esplanade, the Quay juts out into the sea, housing the town’s ferry terminals and its newest attraction, the 173ft-high Jurassic Skyline (daily: April, May & late Oct 11am–3pm; June to late July & mid-Sept to mid-Oct 11am–5pm; late July to early Sept 11am–6pm; check website for half-term and bank hol hours; £7.50, £6.50 online; jurassicskyline.com), which provides stunning views over the town and coastline. At the northern end of the promenade, in Lodmoor Country Park, the excellent Sea Life Park (daily March–Oct 10am–5pm, Nov–Feb 10am–4pm; last admission 1hr before closing; £23.50, £16.50 online, includes entry to Jurassic Skyline; visitsealife.com/weymouth) is home to turtles, penguins, otters and seals, as well as a seahorse breeding centre, and water play areas.
The pedestrianized St Mary’s Street heads south from the Esplanade to the Town Bridge, beyond which is the more intimate quayside of the Old Harbour. Here, a few buildings survive from pre-Georgian times, including the restored Tudor House at 3 Trinity Street (Feb–April, Nov & Dec first Sun of month 2–4pm; May–Oct Tues–Fri 1–4pm, Sun 2–4pm; £4; 01305 779711).
Arrival and information Weymouth and around
By train Weymouth is served at least hourly by trains from London (2hr 45min–3hr), Southampton (1hr 20min–1hr 40min), Bournemouth (50min) and Poole (35–45min), with less regular services from Bristol (2hr 30min) and Bath (2hr 10min). Trains arrive at the station on King St, a short walk back from the seafront.
By bus Buses from Dorchester (at least hourly; 25min–1hr) pull in at the stops by King George III’s statue.
Bay View House 35 The Esplanade, DT4 8DH 01305 782083, bayview-weymouth.co.uk. Clean, friendly and well-kept guesthouse right on the seafront. All the rooms are comfortable, but the front ones overlooking the sea are particularly great value, at £65. Also has family rooms and free private garage parking. £60
Old Harbour View 12 Trinity Rd, DT4 8TJ 01305 774633, oldharbourview.co.uk. Cosy guesthouse in a great harbourfront location. It consists of just two rooms in a Georgian townhouse, but it’s worth paying a few pounds extra for the one at the front with a harbour view. The breakfasts are great, using locally sourced and free-range ingredients. £98
Enzo 110 The Esplanade, DT2 7EA 01305 778666, enzo-ristorante.co.uk. Traditional Italian restaurant with clean, contemporary decor, tiled floors and modern furnishings; it’s right on the seafront, but away from the main drag. It serves a range of pasta dishes (£9–12) and pizzas (£8–13), plus other main courses such as veal escalope (£15.50). Excellent value and friendly service. Daily 12.30–2.30pm & 5.30–10.30pm.
Manbo’s Bistro 46 St Mary St, DT4 8PU 01305 839839, manbosbistro.com. They serve good-value fish, pasta and meat dishes, such as prawn and pesto linguine (£10) and fish chowder (£13), plus tasty daily fish and game specials, at this friendly family-run bistro. The dining area is narrow with an open kitchen at the back, and there are a few tables on the pedestrianized street in front. Mon 6–9pm, Tues–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm, Fri noon–2.30pm & 6–9.30pm, Sat noon–3pm & 6–9.30pm.
The Hive Café 20 Park St, DT4 7DQ 07867 898498. Great veggie and vegan café with friendly service, a little courtyard at the back and a cosy upstairs room with a wood-burner. The food is fantastic – home-made quiche and filo pastries, falafel and a great-value meze plate with a pasty and a selection of salads for £6. Tasty cakes are made with honey from their own hives, and the hot lemon, ginger and honey drink (£2) is delicious. Wed–Sat 10.30am–4pm, Sun 11am–3.30pm.
Just south of Weymouth stretch the giant arms of Portland Harbour, where a long causeway links the mainland to the stark, wind-battered and treeless Isle of Portland. It’s famed for its hard white limestone, which has been quarried here for centuries – Wren used it for St Paul’s Cathedral, and it clads the UN headquarters in New York. It was also used for the 6000ft breakwater that protects Portland Harbour – the largest artificial harbour in Britain, built by convicts in the nineteenth century and the main centre for the 2012 Olympic Games sailing events. It is still surveyed by Portland Castle (daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm; Oct 10am–5pm; £5.70, EH; 01305 820539, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/portland-castle), which was commissioned by Henry VIII. Southeast of here, the craggy limestone of the Isle rises to 496ft at Verne Hill. At Portland Bill, the southern tip of the island, you can climb the 153 steps of Portland Lighthouse (10am–5pm: Easter–Oct daily; Nov–Easter Sat & Sun; £7; 01305 821050, trinityhouse.co.uk), which dates from 1906, for superb views in all directions.
Arrival and departure Isle of Portland
By bus First Bus service #1 runs every 20–30min from Weymouth King’s Statue to Portland (30–40min).
Cove House Inn91 Chiswell, DT5 1AW 01305 820895, thecovehouseinn.co.uk. A good spot for food or a quick drink, with pub staples such as burgers (£9.25) as well as a daily local fish menu, featuring such treats as scallops with chorizo and garlic (£13). It’s cosy inside, with its wood-burner and big windows with sea views, while the outside tables look over Chesil Beach. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm; kitchen daily noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm.
Crab House Café Ferrymans Way, Portland Rd at the entrance to the Portland causeway, DT4 9YU 01305 788867, crabhousecafe.co.uk. In a great location overlooking Chesil Beach, this upmarket beach shack is renowned for its locally caught fresh fish and seafood (from £14), including oysters from its own beds. The menu changes daily according to the catch, but expect dishes like turbot steak with samphire. There are tables outside; reservations advised.Wed & Thurs noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–3.30pm.
Chesil Beach is the strangest feature of the Dorset coast, a 200yd-wide, 50ft-high bank of pebbles that extends for eighteen miles, its component stones gradually decreasing in size from fist-like pebbles at Portland to “pea gravel” at Burton Bradstock in the west. This sorting is an effect of the powerful coastal currents, which make this one of the most dangerous beaches in Europe – churchyards in the local villages display plenty of evidence of wrecks and drownings. Though not a swimming beach, Chesil is popular with sea anglers, and its wild, uncommercialized atmosphere makes an appealing antidote to the south-coast resorts. Behind the beach, The Fleet, a brackish lagoon, was the setting for J. Meade Faulkner’s classic smuggling tale, Moonfleet.
East Shilvinghampton FarmPortesham, DT3 4HN 01420 80804, featherdown.co.uk. A lovely farm in a beautiful valley, a couple of miles inland from the Fleet Lagoon. It has various spacious, luxurious tents to rent – ready-erected, with running water, a toilet, a wood-burning stove and comfortable beds – in an idyllic field that looks down the valley, with horses, goats and chickens in the paddock next door. Three-night minimum stay. From £145
At the point where Chesil Beach attaches itself to the shore is the pretty village of ABBOTSBURY, all tawny ironstone and thatch. The village has three main attractions, which can be visited individually or on a combined “Passport” ticket for £18 (01305 871130, abbotsbury-tourism.co.uk). The most absorbing is the Swannery (daily mid-March to Oct 10am–5pm; £12.50), a wetland reserve for mute swans dating back to medieval times, when presumably it formed part of the abbot’s larder. If you visit in late May or June, you’ll see baby cygnets waddling around. The eel-grass reeds through which the swans paddle were once harvested to thatch roofs in the region. One example can be seen on the fifteenth-century Tithe Barn, the last remnant of the abbey and today housing the Children’s Farm (10am–5pm: mid-March to early Sept daily; late Sept & Oct Sat & Sun; £11, under-16s £9.50), whose highlights include goat-racing and pony rides. Lastly, in the Subtropical Gardens (daily: Nov–March 10am–4pm; April–Oct 10am–5pm; closed over Christmas period; £12.50) delicate species thrive in the microclimate created by Chesil’s stones, which act as a giant radiator to deter all but the worst frosts.
Ten miles west of Abbotsbury is pretty BRIDPORT, mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and an important port before the rivers silted up in the early 1700s. It’s a pleasant old town of solid brick buildings with very wide streets, a hangover from its days as a rope-making centre when cords were stretched between the houses to be twisted and dyed. Today, it’s a lively market town (Wed & Sat) with an arty, alternative vibe. The harbour lies a mile or so south at West Bay, which has a fine sandy beach sheltered below majestic red cliffs – the sheer East Cliffs are a tempting challenge for intrepid walkers – and it made a suitably brooding location for the ITV murder series, Broadchurch.
Accommodation and eating Bridport and around
The Bull 34 East St, DT6 3LF 01308 422878, thebullhotel.co.uk. Friendly, boutique-style hotel in a former seventeenth-century coaching inn in the centre of town. The rooms are comfortable and modern, some with roll-top baths: there are also some family rooms. The restaurant and bar are good, too: try moules marinières (£9) to start, followed by an 8oz rib-eye steak (£22). Daily noon–3pm & 6.30–9.30pm. £135
Seaside Boarding House Cliff Rd, Burton Bradstock, DT6 4RB 01308 897205, theseasideboardinghouse.com. Smart and stylish, this beachside bolthole has a relaxed vibe, great cocktails, and comfortable contemporary rooms, with lovely sea or countryside views. Set up by the founders of London’s Groucho Club, it’s a wonderful place to chill out and the location is hard to beat – a short walk from the beach, with a large terrace giving fantastic coast views. The restaurant is highly recommended for its tasty Modern British dishes, such as halibut with shellfish bisque (mains £14–20), with plenty of fresh fish and local, seasonal produce. Daily 10am–10pm.£195
The Riverside West Bay, DT6 4EZ 01308 422011, thefishrestaurant-westbay.co.uk. Reservations are recommended for this renowned restaurant which offers fresh, sumptuous fish and seafood and fine river views. There is a daily changing menu, but expect the likes of lemon sole fillets with sea salt and lemon (£22.25). There are also meat and vegetarian options. Tues–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 6.30–8.30pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–2.30pm.
Watch House CaféWest Bay, DT6 4EL 01308 459330, hivebeachcafe.co.uk/watch-house-caf. Nestled into a bank of shingle right on the beach, and with an appealing outdoor terrace, this rightly popular café-restaurant is a must-visit. You can just have a coffee and cake or ice cream, but the real draw is the fresh fish and seafood, including a superb fish soup (£12) and Lyme Bay hake fillets with samphire (£17). There is also a wood-fired oven which churns out good-sized pizzas (£10–15). July & Aug Mon–Wed & Sun 10am–5pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm & 6–8pm; Sept–June daily 10am–5pm.
LYME REGIS, Dorset’s most westerly town, shelters snugly between steep, fossil-filled cliffs. Its intimate size and photogenic qualities make this a popular spot in summer, with some upmarket literary associations – Jane Austen summered in a seafront cottage and set part of Persuasion in Lyme (the town appears in the 1995 film version), while novelist John Fowles lived here until his death in 2005 (the film adaptation of The French Lieutenant’s Woman was also shot here). Colourwashed cottages and elegant Regency and Victorian villas line its seafront and flanking streets, but Lyme’s best-known feature is a practical reminder of its commercial origins: the Cobb, a curving harbour wall originally built in the thirteenth century. It has suffered many alterations since, most notably in the nineteenth century, when its massive boulders were clad in neater blocks of Portland stone.
LYME’S JURASSIC COAST
The cliffs around Lyme are made up of a complex layer of limestone, greensand and unstable clay, a perfect medium for preserving fossils, which are exposed by landslips of the waterlogged clays. In 1811, after a fierce storm caused parts of the cliffs to collapse, 12-year-old Mary Anning, a keen fossil-hunter, discovered an almost complete dinosaur skeleton, a 30ft ichthyosaurus now displayed in London’s Natural History Museum.
Hands-off inspection of the area’s complex geology can be enjoyed all around the town: as you walk along the seafront and out towards The Cobb, look for the outlines of ammonites in the walls and paving stones. To the west of Lyme, the Undercliff is a fascinating jumble of overgrown landslips, now a nature reserve, where a great path wends its way through the undergrowth for around seven miles to neighbouring Seaton in Devon. East of Lyme is Charmouth (Jane Austen’s favourite resort), from where you can take the coastal path to the headland of Golden Cap, whose brilliant outcrop of auburn sandstone is crowned with gorse.
On Bridge Street, the excellent Lyme Regis Museum (daily 10am–5pm; £4.95; 01297 443370, lymeregismuseum.co.uk) displays artefacts related to the town’s literary connections, including John Fowles’ office chair; the new Mary Anning Wing tells the story of Anning’s life and her incredible fossil finds (see above). Dinosaurland on Coombe Street (late Feb to late Oct daily 10am–5pm; sporadic openings at other times; £5; 01297 443541, dinosaurland.co.uk) fills out the story of ammonites and other local fossils. The town is also a foodie destination, with lots of superb fish restaurants and good pubs, plus the Town Mill Complex (townmill.org.uk) in Mill Lane, with a fantastic cheese shop, local brewery and café, as well as a working mill, pottery and art gallery.
Arrival and information Lyme Regis
By train Lyme’s nearest station is in Axminster, 5 miles north, served by regular trains from London Waterloo and Exeter: bus #X54 runs from the station to Lyme.
By bus First Buses (firstgroup.com) runs a daily #X52 bus service from Exeter (1hr 45min) and Bridport (25min).
Tourist office Church St (April–July & Sept–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5am; Aug Mon–Sat 10am–5am, Sun 10am–4pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 10am–3pm; 01297 442138, lymeregis.org).
Alexandra HotelPound St, DT7 3HZ 01297 442010, hotelalexandra.co.uk. Popular with honeymooners and good for families, this is the town’s top hotel, located inside an eighteenth-century manor house with bleached wood floors and lovely gardens overlooking the sea. Many of the comfortable rooms have sea views, and there is also a highly rated restaurant. £180
Old Lyme 29 Coombe St, DT7 3PP 01297 442929, oldlymeguesthouse.co.uk. Guesthouse right in the town centre in a lovely 300-year-old stone former post office. There are six smallish but spruce bedrooms – one of them is a triple room and all are en suite, or with a private bathroom. £90
Hix Oyster and Fish House Cobb Rd, DT7 3JP 01297 446910, hixoysterandfishhouse.co.uk. In a lovely location overlooking the town and sea, this airy restaurant, owned by acclaimed chef Mark Hix, specializes in local fish and seafood: sublime main courses include Torbay cod with shrimps (£21.50), though there are cheaper options, like huss curry (£13.50). April–Oct daily noon–10pm; Nov–March Tues–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–4pm.
Royal Standard 25 Marine Parade, DT7 3JF 01297 442637, theroyalstandardlymeregis.co.uk. Lovely beachside inn dating back four hundred years, with a log fire inside, and a great sea-facing beer garden that leads onto the beach. There are real ales on tap, brewed by Palmers in nearby Bridport, and decently priced pub grub (from £11).Daily 10am–11pm; kitchen April–Sept daily noon–9pm, Oct–March daily noon–3pm & 5.50–9pm.
Tierra Kitchen 1a Coombe St, DT7 3PY 01297 445189, tierrakitchen.co.uk. Overlooking the millstream, Tierra Kitchen is a bright vegetarian restaurant serving a wide range of seasonal lunches such as courgette-flower fritters or vegetable tagine (around £10), plus more substantial evening meals like goat’s cheese and beetroot tarte tatin, with delicious desserts (two courses £20). Tues 6–9pm, Wed–Sat noon–2.15pm & 6–9pm.
Town Mill Bakery 2 Coombe St, DT7 3PY 01297 444754, townmillbakery.wordpress.com. A wonderful bakery/café serving a superb array of breads and cakes freshly baked on the premises. The ingredients are mostly local and largely organic, with sublime breakfasts of home-made jam, boiled eggs and local honey – choose your bread and toast it yourself, then sit at the communal long wooden tables. Lunch includes home-made soup and pizzas (from £7.50). Daily: Aug 8.30am–8pm; Sept–July 8.30am–5pm.
SALISBURY, huddled below Wiltshire’s chalky plain in the converging valleys of the Avon and Nadder, sprang into existence in the early thirteenth century, when the bishopric was moved from nearby Old Sarum. Today, it looks from a distance very much as it did when Constable painted his celebrated view of it, and though traffic may clog its centre, this prosperous and well-kept city is designed on a pleasantly human scale, with no sprawling suburbs or high-rise buildings to challenge the supremacy of the cathedral’s immense spire. The city’s inspiring silhouette is best admired by taking a twenty-minute walk through the water meadows southwest of the centre to the suburb of Harnham.
North of Salisbury stretches a hundred thousand acres of chalky upland, known as Salisbury Plain; it’s managed by the Ministry of Defence, whose presence has protected it from development and intensive farming, thereby preserving species that are all but extinct elsewhere in England. Though largely deserted today, in previous times Salisbury Plain was positively overrun with communities. Stone, Bronze and Iron Age settlements left hundreds of scattered burial mounds, as well as major complexes like Old Sarum, and, of course, the great circle of Stonehenge, England’s most famous historical monument. To the west, Salisbury’s hinterland also includes one of Wiltshire’s great country mansions, Wilton House, as well as Stourhead and Longleat Safari Park.
The Close, SP1 2EJ • Cathedral daily Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm; chapter house April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm & Sun 11am–4pm, Nov–March Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm & Sun 11am–4pm • £7.50 suggested donation • Tower tours April–Sept Mon–Sat at least 2 daily, usually at 11.15am & 1.15pm, up to 5 a day at busy times; 1hr 45min; book ahead • £12.50 • 01722 555120, salisburycathedral.org.uk
Begun in 1220, Salisbury Cathedral was mostly completed within forty years and is thus unusually consistent in its style, with one prominent exception – the spire, which was added a century later and, at 404ft, is the highest in England. Its survival is something of a miracle, for the foundations penetrate only about six feet into marshy ground, and when Christopher Wren surveyed it he found the spire to be leaning almost two and a half feet out of true. He added further tie rods, which finally arrested the movement.
The interior is over-austere, but there’s an amazing sense of space and light in its high nave, despite the sombre pillars of grey Purbeck marble, which are visibly bowing beneath the weight they bear. Monuments and carved tombs line the walls. Don’t miss the octagonal chapter house, which displays a rare original copy of the Magna Carta, and whose walls are decorated with a frieze of scenes from the Old Testament.
Surrounding the cathedral is the Close, a peaceful precinct of lawns and mellow old buildings. Most of the houses have seemly Georgian facades, though some, like the Bishop’s Palace and the deanery, date from the thirteenth century. Mompesson House (mid-March to Oct daily 11am–5pm; £6.50, garden only £1, NT; 01722 420980, nationaltrust.org.uk/mompesson-house), built by a wealthy merchant in 1701, contains some beautifully furnished eighteenth-century rooms and a superbly carved staircase. Also in the Close is the King’s House, home to the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum (Oct–May Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; April–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm & Sun noon–5pm; £7.50; 01722 332151, salisburymuseum.org.uk) – an absorbing account of local history.
The Close’s North Gate opens onto the centre’s older streets, where narrow pedestrianized alleyways bear names like Fish Row and Salt Lane, indicative of their trading origin. Many half-timbered houses and inns have survived, and the last of four market crosses, Poultry Cross, stands on stilts in Silver Street, near the Market Square. The market (Tues & Sat) still serves a large agricultural area, as it did back when the city grew wealthy on wool. The nearby Church of St Thomas – named after Thomas Becket – is worth a look inside for its carved timber roof and “Doom painting” over the chancel arch, depicting Christ presiding over the Last Judgement. Dating from 1475, it’s the largest of its kind in England.
Arrival and departure Salisbury and around
By train Trains from London arrive half a mile west of Salisbury’s centre, on South Western Rd.
Destinations Bath (2–4 daily; 1hr); Bradford-Upon-Avon (2–4 daily; 45min); Bristol (2–4 daily; 1hr 10min); London Waterloo (every 30min; 1hr 30min); Portsmouth (hourly; 1hr 15min); Southampton (every 30min; 30min–40min).
By bus Buses stop at various sites around the city centre.
Destinations Bournemouth (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr 15min); London (5 daily; 3hr 15min–4hr); Southampton (Mon–Sat every 1–2hr; 1hr 10min).
Tourist office Fish Row, just off Market Square (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm, Sun & bank hols 10am–2pm; 01722 3428606, visitwiltshire.co.uk). It’s also the starting point for informative, inexpensive guided walks.
Bus tours Tours to Stonehenge and Old Sarum depart from the train station (bus only £14, with entry to Old Sarum and Stonehenge £29; 01722 336855, thestonehengetour.info) every 30min in summer, and hourly at other times.
Old MillTown Path, Harnham, SP2 8EU 01722 512139, oldmillhotelsalisbury.co.uk; map. The fully equipped rooms of this riverside pub in a sixteenth-century papermill have great views across the meadows to the cathedral. The location feels really rural but is just a short walk from the city centre. Real ales are on tap in the bar, and there’s an adjoining restaurant serving good local food. £125
St Anns House 32–34 St Ann St, SP1 2DP 07715 213146, stannshouse.co.uk; map. A well-restored Georgian townhouse with stylish, comfortable rooms in a quiet street a short walk from the cathedral. £110
Sarum College 19 The Close, SP1 2EE 01722 424800, sarum.ac.uk; map. By no means luxurious but in the best location in Salisbury, this friendly ecumenical college (with parts designed by Sir Christopher Wren) rents out simple en-suite doubles with views over The Close, plus others without private facilities (£45). There’s also a decent common room, and breakfast is included. £105
Anokaa60 Fisherton Street, SP2 7RB 01722 341717, anokaa.com; map. Attractive Indian restaurant with smart decor – fresh orchids and contemporary painting on the walls – and waiters in traditional, brightly coloured Indian dress. The food is a cut above the average too, with unusual dishes such as rum-soaked wild venison starter (£8) and main courses including Chardonnay-soaked duck breast (£16) and marinated Portobello mushrooms with masala mash (£11.25). Daily noon–2pm & 5.30–11pm.
Gallery Café at Fisherton Mill108 Fisherton St, SP2 7QY 01722 500200, fishertonmill.co.uk; map. Great café within a renovated mill/art gallery serving delicious soups (£4.50), sandwiches on sourdough (£6) and main courses such as lemon roast chicken (£13.50), as well as tasty home-made cakes. Upstairs, you can watch artists at work in their studios, weaving and making jewellery. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–5pm.
Hendersons Artisan Bakery and Café19 Oatmeal Row, SP1 1TH 01722 341717; map. Lovely bakery/café, which makes its own breads, quiches and pastries on site. They use local and seasonal ingredients, so you may find specials such as beetroot bread, rosemary and sea-salt focaccia and wild garlic tart on the menu (tart with salad £5). There’s plenty of space upstairs, or you can sit at the tables outside in the square with a made-to-order sandwich and coffee for lunch. Mon–Sat 8am–5pm.
Haunch of Venison 1 Minster St, SP1 1TB 01722 411313 haunchpub.co.uk; map. One of the city’s most atmospheric and historic pubs, with a wonderful warren of rooms, a fireplace dating from 1588, and a former bread oven containing a mummified hand. The quirky, sloping-floored restaurant serves interesting dishes such as pulled haunch of venison burgers (£16) and Wiltshire pork belly (£15). Daily 11am–11pm.
Castle Rd, SP1 3SD, 2 miles north of Salisbury • Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm; Oct 10am–5pm; Nov–March 10am–4pm • £4.80; EH • 01722 335398, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/old-sarum
The ruins of Old Sarum occupy a bleak hilltop site. Possibly occupied up to five thousand years ago, then developed as an Iron Age fort, it was settled by Romans and Saxons before the Norman bishopric of Sherborne was moved here in the 1070s. Within a couple of decades a new cathedral had been consecrated at Old Sarum, and a large religious community was living alongside the soldiers in the central castle. Old Sarum was an uncomfortable place, parched and windswept, and in 1220 the dissatisfied clergy appealed to the pope for permission to decamp to Salisbury (still known officially as New Sarum). When permission was granted, the stone from the cathedral was commandeered for Salisbury’s gateways, and once the church had gone the population waned. By the nineteenth century Old Sarum was deserted, and today the dominant features of the site are huge earthworks, banks and ditches, with a broad trench encircling the rudimentary remains of the Norman palace, castle and cathedral.
Near Amesbury, SP4 7DE, 9 miles north of Salisbury • Daily: mid-March to May & Sept to mid-Oct 9.30am–7pm; June–Aug 9am–8pm; mid-Oct to mid-March 9.30am–5pm; last entry 2hr before closing; advance booking of timed tickets essential • £16.50; EH • 0870 333 1181, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/stonehenge • Shuttle buses to the site (every 10min; 10min) leave from the visitor centre
No ancient structure in England arouses more controversy than Stonehenge, a mysterious ring of monoliths. While archeologists argue over whether it was a place of ritual sacrifice and sun-worship, an astronomical calculator or a royal palace, the guardians of the site have struggled for years to manage its enormous visitor numbers, particularly at the summer solstice, when crowds of 35,000 or more gather to watch the sunrise.
Access to the stones themselves is via a shuttle-bus service from the sleek visitor centre. This low-rise, environmentally sensitive pair of buildings includes a shop, café and exhibition space combining archeological remains with high-tech interactive displays explaining their significance and history. Outside, you can look round a cluster of re-created Neolithic houses, and try pulling a life-size Preseli bluestone. Perhaps a more fitting way to approach the site, however, is on foot – the stones are a pleasant thirty-minute walk from the visitor centre across fields (once part of a World War I airfield).
STONEHENGE – A BRIEF HISTORY
Some people may find Stonehenge underwhelming, but understanding a little of its history gives an insight into its mystical appeal. What exists today is only a small part of the original prehistoric complex, as many of the outlying stones were probably plundered by medieval and later farmers for building materials. The construction of Stonehenge is thought to have taken place in several stages. In about 3000 BC the outer circular bank and ditch were built, just inside which was dug a ring of 56 pits, which at a later date were filled with a mix of earth and human ash. Around 2500 BC the first stones were raised, approximately forty great blocks of dolerite (bluestone), whose ultimate source was Preseli in Wales. Some archeologists have suggested that these were found lying on Salisbury Plain, having been borne down from the Welsh mountains by a glacier in the last Ice Age, but the lack of any other glacial debris on the plain seems to disprove this theory. The most likely explanation is that the stones were cut from quarries in Preseli and dragged or floated here on rafts, a prodigious task that has defeated recent attempts to emulate it.
The crucial phase in the creation of the site came during the next six hundred years, when the incomplete bluestone circle was transformed by the construction of a circle of 25 trilithons (two uprights crossed by a lintel) and an inner horseshoe formation of five trilithons. Hewn from Marlborough Downs sandstone, these colossal stones (called sarsens), ranging from 13ft to 21ft in height and weighing up to thirty tons, were carefully dressed and worked – for example, to compensate for perspectival distortion the uprights have a slight swelling in the middle, the same trick as the builders of the Parthenon employed hundreds of years later. More bluestones were arranged in various patterns within the outer circle over this period. The purpose of all this work remains baffling, however. The symmetry and location of the site (a slight rise in a flat valley with even views of the horizon in all directions) as well as its alignment towards the points of sunrise and sunset on the summer and winter solstices tend to support the supposition that it was some sort of observatory or time-measuring device. The site ceased to be used at around 1600 BC, and by the Middle Ages it had become a “landmark”. Recent excavations have revealed the existence of a much larger settlement here than had previously been thought (the most substantial Neolithic village of this period to be found on the British mainland, in fact), covering a wide area.
Wilton, SP2 OBJ, 5 miles west of Salisbury • House Easter & May–Aug Mon–Thurs, Sun & bank hols Sat 11.30am–5pm • £15 (includes grounds) • Grounds Easter to mid-Sept daily 11am–5.30pm • £6.25 • 01722 746714, wiltonhouse.co.uk
The splendid Wilton House dominates the village of WILTON, renowned for its carpet industry. The original Tudor house, built for the first earl of Pembroke on the site of a dissolved Benedictine abbey, was ruined by fire in 1647 and rebuilt by Inigo Jones, whose classic hallmarks can be seen in the sumptuous Single Cube and Double Cube rooms, so called because of their precise dimensions. The easel paintings are what makes Wilton really special, however – the collection includes works by Van Dyck, Rembrandt, two of the Brueghel family, Poussin, Andrea del Sarto and Tintoretto. In the grounds, the famous Palladian Bridge has been joined by various ancillary attractions including an adventure playground and restaurant. Note, too, that the grounds host frequent events which can restrict access; check the website for details.
Near Mere, BA12 6QF, 25 miles west of Salisbury • House Mid-Feb to mid-March Sat & Sun 11am–3pm; mid-March to Oct daily 11am–4.30pm; first two weeks of Nov & Dec daily 11am–3.30pm • Gardens Daily: mid-April to Oct 9am–6pm; Nov to mid-April 9am–5pm • House and gardens £16; NT • King Alfred’s Tower Aug daily noon–4pm • £4.20; NT • 01747 841152, nationaltrust.org.uk/stourhead
Landscape gardening was a favoured mode of display among the grandest eighteenth-century landowners, and Stourhead is one of the most accomplished examples of the genre. The Stourton estate was bought in 1717 by Henry Hoare, who commissioned Colen Campbell to build a new villa in the Palladian style. Hoare’s heir, another Henry, returned from his Grand Tour in 1741 with his head full of the paintings of Claude and Poussin, and determined to translate their images of well-ordered, wistful classicism into real life. He dammed the Stour to create a lake, then planted the terrain with blocks of trees, domed temples, stone bridges, grottoes and statues, all mirrored vividly in the water. The house itself is of minor interest, with the stunning gardens the highlight. At the entrance, you can pick up a map detailing a lovely two-mile walk around the lake. The estate itself is vast and includes a pub, a church and a farm shop, plus King Alfred’s Tower, about three miles from the main entrance. Built in 1772, it is one of England’s oldest follies, and you can climb the two hundred or so steps up to the top for fine views stretching into neighbouring counties.
Warminster, BA12 7NW, 27 miles west of Salisbury • Opening hours and closing days vary throughout the season, but are generally 10am–5pm, 6pm or 7pm; check website for exact times and days • House and grounds only £18.95, all attractions £33.95; discounts available online • 01985 844400, longleat.co.uk
The African savanna intrudes into the bucolic Wiltshire countryside at Longleat safari and adventure park. In 1946 the sixth marquess of Bath became the first stately-home owner to open his house to the public on a regular basis, and in 1966 he caused more amazement by turning Longleat’s Capability Brown landscapes into England’s first drive-through safari park, with lions, tigers, giraffes and rhinos on show, plus monkeys clambering all over your car. Other attractions followed, including boat trips on a lake full of sea lions and a large hedge maze. Beyond the razzmatazz, there’s an exquisitely furnished Elizabethan house, with an enormous library and a fine collection of pictures, including Titian’s Holy Family.
The village of AVEBURY stands in the midst of a stone circle (daily 24hr; free) that rivals Stonehenge – the individual stones are generally smaller, but the circle itself is much wider and more complex. A massive earthwork 20ft high and 1400ft across encloses the main circle, which is approached by four causeways across the inner ditch, two of them leading into wide avenues stretching over a mile beyond the circle. It was probably built soon after 2500 BC, and presumably had a similar ritual or religious function to Stonehenge. The structure of Avebury’s diffuse circle is quite difficult to grasp, but there are plans on the site, and the Alexander Keiller Museum provides further details and background. Further prehistoric sites can be seen at nearby Silbury Hill and West Kennet Long Barrow, making the sixteenth-century Avebury Manor seem youthful in comparison.
SN8 1RF • Daily 10am–6pm • £4.40; NT • 01672 539250, nationaltrust.org.uk/avebury
The nearby Alexander Keiller Museum provides an excellent overview of the Avebury stones and their significance, plus information about the role of Keiller himself. A Scottish archeologist and heir to a marmalade fortune, Keiller was responsible for restoring the stones and excavating the surrounding site. The museum is housed in two separate buildings: the Stables Gallery houses some of Keiller’s original finds, while the seventeenth-century Barn Gallery has exhibits on local archeology, interactive displays plus activities for children.
Just outside Avebury, the neat green mound of Silbury Hill is disregarded by the majority of drivers whizzing by on the A4. At 130ft it’s no great height, but when you realize that it’s the largest prehistoric artificial mound in Europe, and was made using nothing more than primitive spades, it commands more respect. It was probably constructed around 2600 BC, and though no one knows quite what it was for, the likelihood is that it was a burial mound. You can’t actually walk on the hill – having admired it briefly from the car park, cross the road to the footpath that leads half a mile to the West Kennet Long Barrow (daily 24hr; free; NT & EH). Dating from about 3250 BC, this was definitely a chamber tomb – nearly fifty burials have been discovered here.
Accommodation and eating Avebury
Circles Café Next to the Barn Gallery, SN8 1RF 01672 539250. This National Trust café is your best bet for an inexpensive lunch, offering good meals and snacks, plenty of veggie options and, of course, tasty cakes and cream teas. There’s indoor seating in a converted farm building, plus outdoor tables in the courtyard. Daily 10am–5.30pm.
The Lodge High St, SN8 1RF 01672 539023, aveburylodge.co.uk. An attractive Georgian and vegetarian B&B with just two rooms, one en suite, but both comfortable and overlooking the Stone Circles. Breakfast is served in a grand dining room filled with antiques. Free parking for guests. £195
LACOCK, twelve miles west of Avebury, is the perfect English feudal village, albeit one gentrified by the National Trust and besieged by tourists all summer, partly due to its fame as a location for several films and TV series – the later Harry Potter films and the BBCs Wolf Hall, among others. The village’s most famous son is photography pioneer Henry Fox Talbot, a member of the dynasty that has lived in the local abbey since it passed to Sir William Sharington on the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539. The opulent tomb of Sir William Sharington, buried beneath a splendid barrel-vaulted roof, can be seen in the village church of St Cyriac (daily 24hr; free).
SN15 2LG • Abbey Jan Sat & Sun11am–5pm, Feb–Dec daily 11am–5pm; museum, cloisters and grounds Feb–Dec daily 10.30am–5.30pm • £12.70; NT • 01249 73045, nationaltrust.org.uk/lacock
William Henry Fox Talbot was the first person to produce a photographic negative, and the Fox Talbot Museum, in a sixteenth-century barn by the gates of Lacock Abbey, captures something of the excitement he must have experienced as the dim outline of an oriel window in the abbey imprinted itself on a piece of silver nitrate paper. The museum also houses the Fenton Collection, featuring photos and cameras from the birth of photography to the 1980s, which was donated by the British Film Institute. The abbey itself boasts a medieval cloister and a few monastic fragments amid the eighteenth-century Gothic.
Arrival and departure Lacock
By bus The #X34 runs hourly from Chippenham and Frome, stopping outside the George Inn (faresaver.co.uk).
Beechfield House HotelBeanacre, SN12 7PU, 2 miles south of Lacock 01225 703700, beechfieldhouse.co.uk. This lovely country-house hotel has comfortable rooms, an excellent restaurant and a heated outdoor pool, all set in attractive grounds. It has family rooms and the service is friendly but professional. £125
George Inn 4 West St, SN15 2LH 01249 730263 georgeinnlacock.co.uk. A rambling, partly fourteenth-century pub with roaring fires and a dog-wheel (the dog powered the wheel to turn a spit over the fire). Good for a drink, with a variety of guest ales, plus decent pub food, such as fish of the day with chips (£13). Mon–Fri 11am–3pm & 6–11pm, Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10.30pm; kitchen Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm, Sun noon–2.30pm & 6–8pm.
Lacock Pottery The Tanyard, Church St, SN15 2LB 01249 730266, lacockbedandbreakfast.com. Three comfortable B&B rooms in a lovely old building overlooking the church and the village. Breakfasts are good, featuring home-made bread and jams. Weekdays £90, weekends £100
