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THE ROMAN BATHS, BATH
Ranging from tidy cricket greens and well-kept country pubs to limestone gorges and windswept moorland, Somerset makes a fitting introduction to England’s Southwest. The Georgian, honey-toned terraces of Bath lie at the eastern end of the county, and offers a beautifully preserved set of Roman baths, some first-class museums and a mellow café culture that makes it an unmissable stop on any tour of the region. Just a few miles away, the main city hereabouts is Bristol, one of the most dynamic and cosmopolitan centres outside London, its medieval old quarter and revitalized waterfront supplemented by a superb range of pubs, clubs and restaurants.
Within easy reach to the south lie the exquisite cathedral city of Wells and the ancient town of Glastonbury, a site steeped in Christian lore, Arthurian legend and New Age mysticism. Nearby, the Mendips are fine walking territory and are pocked by cave systems, as at Wookey Hole and Cheddar Gorge. The county town of Taunton is a useful base for exploring the Quantock Hills, while further west, straddling the Devon border, the heathery slopes of Exmoor offer a range of hikes, with wonderful views from its cliffy seaboard.
A graceful succession of urban set pieces, BATH is a visual feast: harmonious, compact and perfectly complemented by the softly undulating hills that surround it. The city’s elegant crescents and Georgian buildings are studded with plaques naming Bath’s eminent inhabitants from its heyday; it was here that Jane Austen set Persuasion and Northanger Abbey, and Gainsborough established himself as a portraitist and landscape painter.
Bath owes its name and fame to its hot springs – the only ones in the country – which made it a place of reverence for the local Celtic population, though it took Roman technology to turn it into a fully fledged bathing establishment. The baths fell into decline with the Romans’ departure, but the town regained its importance under the Saxons, its abbey seeing the coronation of the first king of all England, Edgar, in 973. A new bathing complex was built in the sixteenth century, popularized by the visit of Elizabeth I in 1574, and the city reached its zenith in the eighteenth century, when it acquired its ranks of Palladian mansions and Regency townhouses, all built in the local Bath stone. The legacy is a city whose streets are a joy simply to wander along, with their pale gold architecture and sweeping vistas.
Abbey Churchyard, BA1 1LZ • Daily: March to mid-June, Sept & Oct 9am–6pm; mid-June to Aug 9am–10pm; Nov–Feb 9.30am–6pm; last entry 1hr before closing • £15.50, £17 in July & Aug, £21.50 combined ticket with Fashion Museum & Victoria Art Gallery • Tours Daily, on the hour; 1hr • Free • 
01225 477785, 
romanbaths.co.uk
There are hours of entertainment in Bath’s premier attraction, the Roman Baths, which comprises the baths themselves and an informative museum – highlights include the Sacred Spring, part of the temple of the local deity Sulis Minerva, where water still bubbles up at a constant 46.5ºC; the open-air (but originally covered) Great Bath, its vaporous waters surrounded by nineteenth-century pillars, terraces and statues of famous Romans; the Circular Bath, where bathers cooled off; and the Norman King’s Bath, where people were taking a restorative dip right up until 1978. The free audioguide is excellent.
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GLASTONBURY FESTIVAL
Roman Baths Thermal waters still bubble up in this beautifully restored complex of baths from the Roman era in the UK’s original spa town.
Royal Crescent, Bath In a city famous for its graceful arcs of Georgian terraces, this is the granddaddy of them all, an architectural tour de force with a magnificent view.
ss Great Britain, Bristol Moored in the dock in which she was built, the iconic ship is now a museum, an interactive insight into life aboard a nineteenth-century steamer.
Wells Cathedral A gem of medieval masonry, this richly ornamented Gothic masterpiece is the centrepiece of England’s smallest city.
Cheddar Gorge Impressive rockscape with a network of illuminated caves at its base; it’s an excellent starting point for wild walks in the Mendip Hills.
Glastonbury Festival Pack your tent, dust off your wellies and enjoy the ride that is simply Britain’s biggest, boldest and best music festival.
Exmoor Whether you ride it, bike it or hike it, the rolling wilderness of Exmoor offers fine opportunities to experience the great outdoors.
HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP
Among a quantity of coins, jewellery and sculpture exhibited are the bronze head of Sulis Minerva and a grand, Celtic-inspired gorgon’s head from the temple’s pediment. Models of the complex at its greatest extent give some idea of the awe which it must have inspired, while the graffiti salvaged from the Roman era – mainly curses and boasts – offer a personal slant on this antique leisure centre.
You can get a free glimpse into the baths from the next-door Pump Room, the social hub of the Georgian spa community and still redolent of that era, which houses a formal tearoom and restaurant.
Abbey Churchyard, BA1 1LT • April–Oct Mon 9.30am–5.30pm, Tues–Fri 9am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–2.30pm & 4.30–5.30pm (Sun till 6pm in Aug); Nov–March Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm, Sun 1–2.30pm & 4.30–5.30pm • Free, but £4 donation requested • Tower tours From 10/11am: Mon–Fri on the hour, Sat every 30min; 45min • £6 • bathabbey.org
Although there has been a church on the site since the seventh century, Bath Abbey did not take its present form until the end of the fifteenth century, when Bishop Oliver King began work on the ruins of the previous Norman building, some of which were incorporated into the new church. The bishop was said to have been inspired by a vision of angels ascending and descending a ladder to heaven, which the present facade recalls on the turrets flanking the central window. The west front also features the founder’s signature in the form of carvings of olive trees surmounted by crowns, a play on his name.
The interior is in a restrained Perpendicular style, although it does boast splendid fan vaulting on the ceiling, which was not completed until the nineteenth century. The floor and walls are crammed with elaborate monuments and memorials, and traces of the grander Norman building are visible in the Gethsemane Chapel.
On most days, you can join a tower tour to see the massive bells, clock and bell-pulling machinery, and can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Bath – but be prepared for the 212 spiral steps.
Hot Bath St, BA1 1SJ • Baths Daily: New Royal Bath 9am–9.30pm, last entry 7pm; Cross Bath 10am–8pm, last entry 6pm • £35/2hr (Sat & Sun £38), £10/hr extra • Visitor centre April–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–4pm • Free • 01225 331234, thermaebathspa.com
At the bottom of the elegantly colonnaded Bath Street, Thermae Bath Spa allows you to take the waters in much the same way that visitors to Bath have done throughout the ages, but with state-of-the-art spa facilities. Heated by the city’s thermal waters, the spa includes two open-air pools, one on the roof of its centrepiece, the New Royal Bath, Sir Nicholas Grimshaw’s futuristic “glass cube”. Treatments offered range from massages to hot-stone therapies, and a small visitor centre has displays on Bath’s thermal waters.
North of Hot Bath Street, Sawclose is presided over by the Theatre Royal, opened in 1805 and one of the country’s finest surviving Georgian theatres; Beau Nash had his first house in Bath here from 1743, in what is now the theatre’s foyer. Barton Street leads north of Sawclose to Queen Square, the first Bath venture of the architect John Wood the Elder (1704–54), champion of Neoclassical Palladianism, who lived at no. 15 (not no. 24, as a tablet there asserts). East of the square is the wide shopping strand of Milsom Street, which was designed by Wood as the main thoroughfare of Georgian Bath.
BEAU NASH
Bath’s social renaissance in the eighteenth century was largely due to one man: Richard “Beau” Nash (1674–1761), an ex-army officer, ex-lawyer, dandy and gambler, who became Bath’s Master of Ceremonies in 1704, conducting public balls of unprecedented splendour. Wielding dictatorial powers over dress and behaviour, Nash orchestrated the social manners of the city and even extended his influence to cover road improvements and building design. In an early example of health awareness, he banned smoking in Bath’s public rooms at a time when pipe-smoking was generally enjoyed among men, women and children. Less philanthropically, he also encouraged gambling and even took a percentage of the bank’s takings. According to his rules, balls were to begin at 6pm and end at 11pm, and each had to open with a minuet “danced by two persons of the highest distinction present”. White aprons were banned, gossipers and scandalmongers were shunned, and, most radical of all, the wearing of swords in public places was forbidden. Nash’s fortunes changed when gambling restrictions were introduced in 1739, greatly reducing his influence; he died in poverty aged 87, but was treated to a suitably lavish send-off.
19 New King St, BA1 2BL • Mid-Jan to mid-Dec Mon–Fri 1–5pm, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm • £6.50 • 01225 446865, herschelmuseum.org.uk
A few minutes west of the centre is the small Herschel Museum of Astronomy, former home of the musician and astronomer Sir William Herschel and his sister Caroline, who together discovered the planet Uranus here in 1781. Among the furnishings, musical instruments and knick-knacks from the Herschels’ era, you can see a replica of the telescope with which Uranus was identified.
40 Gay St, BA1 2NT • April–June, Sept & Oct daily 9.45am–5.30pm; July & Aug daily 9.30am–6pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri & Sun 11am–4pm, Sat 9.45am–5.30pm • £11 • 01225 443000, janeausten.co.uk
The Jane Austen Centre provides a superficial overview of the author’s connections with Bath, illustrated by extracts from her writings, contemporary costumes and household items; visits start with a talk (every 20min). Austen herself, who wasn’t entirely enamoured of the city, lived down the road at 25 Gay Street, and at a number of other places in Bath.
Situated at the top of Gay Street, the elder John Wood’s masterpiece, The Circus, consists of three crescents arranged in a tight circle of three-storey houses, with a carved frieze running round the entire circle. Wood died soon after laying the foundation stone, and the job was finished by his son, John Wood the Younger (1728–82), who was as instrumental as his father in defining Bath’s elegant Georgian appearance. The painter Thomas Gainsborough lived at no. 17 from 1760 to 1774.
No. 1 Royal Crescent BA1 2LR • Mid-Feb to Dec Mon noon–5.30pm, Tues–Sun 10.30am–5.30pm • £10, or £12.50 with Museum of Bath Architecture • 01225 428126, no1royalcrescent.org.uk
The Circus is connected by Brock Street to the Royal Crescent, grandest of Bath’s crescents, begun by the younger John Wood in 1767. The stately arc of thirty houses – said to be the country’s first – is set off by a spacious sloping lawn from which a magnificent vista extends to green hills and distant ribbons of honey-coloured stone. The interior of No. 1 Royal Crescent, on the corner with Brock Street, has been restored to reflect as nearly as possible its original Georgian appearance at the end of the eighteenth century.
At the bottom of the Crescent, Royal Avenue leads onto Royal Victoria Park, the city’s largest open space, containing an aviary and nine acres of botanical gardens.
Assembly Rooms, Bennett St, BA1 2QH • Daily: March–Oct 10.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb 10.30am–5pm; last admission 1hr before closing • £9, or £21.50 with the Roman Baths & Victoria Art Gallery • 01225 477789, fashionmuseum.co.uk
The younger John Wood’s Assembly Rooms, east of the Circus, were, with the Pump Room, the centre of Bath’s social scene. The building was virtually destroyed by bombing during World War II, but it has since been perfectly restored and houses the Fashion Museum, an entertaining collection of clothing from the Stuart era to the latest Milanese designs.
The Vineyards, The Paragon, BA1 5NA • Mid-Feb to Nov Tues–Fri 2–5pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–5pm • £6, or £12.50 with No. 1 Royal Crescent • 01225 333895, museumofbatharchitecture.org.uk
The Georgian-Gothic Countess of Huntingdon’s Chapel houses the Museum of Bath Architecture, a fascinating exploration of the construction and architecture of the city and a great place to start your visit. Everything is covered, from the kind of facades associated with the two John Woods to balustrades, door designs and such aspects of interior ornamentation as marbling, stencilling and japanning.
Great Pulteney St, BA2 4DB • Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm • Free • 01225 388569, holburne.org
The River Avon is crossed by the graceful, shop-lined Pulteney Bridge, an Italianate structure designed by Robert Adam, from the other side of which a lengthy vista stretches along Great Pulteney Street to the imposing classical facade of the Holburne Museum. The building, with a startlingly modern extension at the back, holds an impressive range of decorative and fine art, mostly furniture, silverware, porcelain and paintings, including several works by Gainsborough, notably the famous Byam Family, his largest portrait.
Arrival AND information bath
By train Bath Spa station is a short walk south of the centre at the bottom of Manvers St.
Destinations Bristol (every 15–30min; 15min); London Paddington (every 30min–1hr; 1hr 30min); Salisbury (every 30min–1hr; 1hr).
By bus The bus station (firstgroup.com) lies next to the train station on Dorchester St.
Destinations Bristol (3–6 hourly; 45min); London (14 daily; 2hr 30min–3hr 15min); Salisbury (Mon–Sat 4 daily; 1hr 35min–2hr 50min); Wells (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr 25min).
By bike/on foot The 13-mile Bristol & Bath Railway Path (bristolbathrailwaypath.org.uk) connects the two cities along the route of a disused railway line and the course of the River Avon.
Tourist office Bridgwater House, 2 Terrace Walk (March–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Oct–Feb Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm; 01225 322442, visitbath.co.uk).
By car Cars are a hindrance and parking is expensive; if you must drive, use a Park-and-Ride car park on the edge of town.
Bike rental Nextbike (020 8166 9851, nextbike.co.uk) operates a rental service for up to 24hr, with bikes available at stands scattered around the city. To use it, you must first register (via the website or on a free app) and pay a £10 deposit; charges are £1/30min or £10 for up to 24hr. Alternatively, there’s Bath Bike Hire, Sydney Wharf, Bathwick Hill (£15/day; 01225 447276, bath-narrowboats.co.uk); they also rent narrowboats (from £80/half-day).
Boat tours Hour-long river trips run from Pulteney Bridge; operators include Pulteney Cruisers (Easter–Oct 6–12 daily; £9; 01225 312900, pulteneycruisers.com) and Avon Cruising (April–Oct 6 daily; £9; pulteneyprincess.co.uk).
Walking tours Mayor’s Guides run free 2hr walking tours, starting outside the Pump Room in Abbey Churchyard (bathguides.org.uk; Mon–Fri & Sun 10.30am & 2pm, Sat 10.30am, May–Aug also Tues & Thurs 7pm).
Bath is full of hotels and B&Bs, but most of the latter are small. It’s worth booking early, especially at weekends, when most places have a two-night minimum and prices rise; rates quoted below are midweek. There are central hostels, but the nearest campsites are out of town. The centre can get noisy at night, so choose a room away from the street for a good night’s sleep.
Bath Paradise House86–88 Holloway, BA2 4PX 01225 317723, paradise-house.co.uk; map. Georgian villa an uphill trudge from the centre, but with wonderful views. Open fires in winter, elegant four-posters in some of the rooms, and three rooms opening straight onto the award-winning gardens. £92
The Belmont7 Belmont, Lansdown Rd, BA1 5DZ 01225 423082, belmontbath.co.uk; map. Large doubles, some with tiny, clean, modern en-suite bathrooms, in a centrally located B&B in a house designed by John Wood. No credit cards. £85
Brindleys B&B14 Pulteney Gardens, BA2 4HG 01225 310444, brindleysbath.co.uk; map. Half a dozen light, airy, elegantly decorated bijou rooms that have more than a hint of a French country manor about them, a feeling that extends to the stylish communal areas. It’s set in a quiet residential area just a 5min walk from the centre. £115
Harington’sQueen St, BA1 1HE 01225 461728, haringtonshotel.co.uk; map. Central hotel in a converted townhouse with friendly service and modern, well-equipped rooms – most are quite small, and some at the top of steep steps. Breakfasts are superlative, and food is available throughout the day. £130
Queensberry HotelRussel St, BA1 2QF 01225 447928, thequeensberry.co.uk; map. Spread across four Georgian townhouses, the Queensberry combines a clubhouse feel with a boutique vibe. Rooms are tastefully minimalist – most with a fabulous bathroom – and there’s a peaceful garden and superb restaurant. £155
Three Abbey Green3 Abbey Green, BA1 1NW 01225 428558, threeabbeygreen.com; map. Top-notch B&B in a superbly renovated Georgian house just steps from the abbey. The airy, spotless rooms are beautifully done; the larger ones overlooking a peaceful square are more expensive. £120
White HartWidcombe Hill, BA2 6AA 01225 313985, whitehartbath.co.uk; map. The comfiest of Bath’s hostels has a kitchen, a first-class bar/restaurant and a spacious courtyard. There are clean doubles and twins available, some en suite. Accommodation not available Sun. Dorms £15, doubles £50
YMCAInternational House, Broad St, BA1 5LH 01225 325900, bathymca.co.uk; map. Clean, central and spacious, this friendly place has dorms, singles and doubles. No curfew, but no kitchen, either. All rates include breakfast (cooked £3.50 extra). Dorms £16, singles £32, doubles £56
Colonna & Small’s6 Chapel Row, BA1 1HN 07766 808067, colonnaandsmalls.co.uk; map. The highbrowed but helpful brewmasters at this stripped-back coffee specialist serve a serious cup of Joe. Choose from a range of weekly changing single-origin espresso beans and filter coffees. Just don’t ask for milk. Or sugar. Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat 8.30am–5.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Kingsmead Kitchen1 Kingsmead Square, BA1 2AA 01225 329002, kingsmeadkitchenbath.co.uk; map. Big breakfasts, snack fodder and dishes such as meze with warm pitta bread (£9) are served at this café tucked away in a corner of one of Bath’s most attractive squares. There are beers and wines, and outside seating to boot. Mon–Sat 8.30am–6pm, Sun 9am–5pm.
Wild Café10a Queen St, BA1 1HE 01225 448673, wildcafe.co.uk; map. Hidden down a cobbled side street behind Queen Square, the open kitchen at this popular café does burgers, salads (£8–10) and sandwiches (including an excellent BLT; £6), which can also be bought to take away. Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm.
Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen2 North Parade Passage, BA1 1NX 01225 446059, acornvegetariankitchen.co.uk; map. Classy veggie restaurant offering dishes such as butternut squash terrine with pine-nut risotto in an unruffled, arty environment. Set-price lunches are £18 or £23 for two and three courses respectively, while dinners cost £27 or £35 (£20 or £25 before 6.30pm). Mon–Fri & Sun noon–3pm & 5.30–9.30pm, Sat noon–3.30pm & 5.30–10pm.
The Circus34 Brock St, BA1 2LN 01225 466020, thecircusrestaurant.co.uk; map. There’s a refined but relaxed atmosphere at this family-run spot, just a stroll from the Royal Crescent. It specializes in Modern European dishes like Sicilian-style braised globe artichokes (£17.50) and tagine of kid goat on saffron couscous (£19.70) – both around £6.50 cheaper at lunch. Mon–Sat 10am–late.
King William36 Thomas St, BA1 5NN 01225 428096, kingwilliampub.com; map. North of the centre, the upstairs dining room at the King William pub regularly receives accolades for its locally sourced dishes, such as confit pork belly (£19) and gnocchi with Jerusalem artichoke (£14), but the beer and wine list is top-drawer, too. Bar Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 5–11pm, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–11pm; restaurant Wed–Fri 6–9pm, Sat 6–10pm, Sun noon–3pm.
Mint RoomLongmead Gospel Hall, Lower Bristol Rd, BA2 3EB 01225 446656, themintroom.co.uk; map. Indian food but not as you know it: innovative yet authentic regional cuisine ranging from South Indian king prawn moilee (£17) to biryanis served under a pastry crust (£10–12). Mon–Thurs & Sun noon–2pm & 6–11pm, Fri & Sat noon–2pm & 6–11.30pm.
Olive TreeQueensberry Hotel, Russel St, BA1 2QF 01225 447928, olivetreebath.co.uk; map. One of Bath’s top restaurants, with inventively prepared dishes, a relaxed, contemporary ambience and attentive, friendly service. Whether you order from the tasting menus (£58–80) or opt for individual dishes (mains £19.50–28.50), you can sample such dishes as lobster lasagne, pan-fried turbot and pigeon with asparagus and hazelnut (a vegetarian menu is also available). There are set-price lunch menus Fri & Sat for £26.50 or £32. Mon–Thurs 7–9.30pm, Fri & Sat 12.30–2pm & 6.30–10pm, Sun 12.30–2pm & 7–9.30pm.
Same Same But Different7a Prince’s Buildings, Bartlett St, BA1 2ED 01225 466856, same-same.co.uk; map. Excellent café/restaurant that mixes a laidback ambience with quality food – try some of the unusual tapas dishes (from £4.50), or go for something a bit more substantial, such as smoked haddock kedgeree with duck egg (£10). Mon 8am–6pm, Tues–Fri 8am–11pm, Sat 9am–11pm, Sun 10am–5pm.
Sotto Sotto10 North Parade, BA2 4AL 01225 330236, sottosotto.co.uk; map. Authentic Italian restaurant in cave-like, brick-vaulted subterranean rooms. The simple but heavenly dishes include orecchiette with spinach and sausage (£9.75) and pesce spada alla griglia (grilled swordfish; £16.25). Make sure you sample the excellent antipasti too (around £7.50). Service is superb. It’s usually packed, so booking is essential. Daily noon–2pm & 5–10pm.
Yak Yeti Yak12 Pierrepont St, BA1 1LA 01225 442299, yakyetiyak.co.uk; map. Quality Nepalese restaurant in a series of cellar rooms with a choice of chairs or floor cushions. Meat dishes are stir-fried or spicily marinated, and there’s a good vegetarian selection (dishes all £5–9). Mon–Thurs noon–2pm & 6–10.30pm, Fri & Sat noon–2pm & 5–10.30pm, Sun noon–2pm & 6–10pm.
The Bell103 Walcot St, BA1 5BW 01225 460426, thebellinnbath.co.uk; map. Easy-going, slightly grungy tavern with a great jukebox, live music (Mon & Wed eve, plus Sun lunchtime) and DJs (Fri & Sat). There’s bar billiards and a beer garden with table footy. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm.
Coeur de Lion17 Northumberland Place, BA1 5AR 01225 463568, coeur-de-lion.co.uk; map. Bath’s smallest boozer serves local Abbey Ales, and is a regular tourist stop, with good lunchtime snacks (baguettes £6.50).Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight, Sun noon–10.30pm.
Moles14 George St, BA1 2EN 01225 437537, moles.co.uk; map. Much-loved Bath institution which features a mix of good live music, DJs and club nights. The cramped basement can get pretty hot and sweaty, though – not for claustrophobes. Mon–Sat 5pm–late.
The Raven6–7 Queen St, BA1 1HE 01225 425045, theravenofbath.co.uk; map. A civilized spot with first-rate local ales, which occasionally holds storytelling nights. Food available, including renowned pies (£9.80). Mon–Thurs 8.30am–11pm, Fri & Sat 8.30am–midnight, Sun 8.30am–10.30pm.
The Salamander3 John St, BA1 2JL 01225 428889, bathales.com; map. Local brewer Bath Ales’ pub, with a traditional, dark-wood interior, relaxed atmosphere and tasty dishes available at the bar or in the upstairs restaurant (mains £10–15). Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri & Sat 11am–1am, Sun 11am–11pm.
The Star Inn23 The Vineyards, The Paragon, BA1 5NA 01225 425071, abbeyales.co.uk; map. First licensed in 1760, this Abbey Ales pub has a classic Victorian interior, and beers that include the award-winning Bellringer and draught Bass served from a jug. Mon–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 5.30pm–midnight, Fri & Sat noon–1am, Sun noon–midnight.
Sub 134 Edgar Buildings, George St, BA1 2EE 01225 466667, sub13.net; map. Settle into a white leather booth in the Champagne Lounge or chill out on the backyard terrace at this trendy basement bar, boasting the best cocktails in town. Mon–Wed 5pm–midnight, Thurs 5pm–2am, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am, Sun noon–11pm.
Chapel Arts CentreSt James’s Memorial Hall, Lower Borough Walls, BA1 1QR 01225 461700, chapelarts.org. Nice little venue for all kinds of performing arts, including jazz, folk and comedy. Arrive early to get one of the cabaret-style tables.
Komedia22–23 Westgate St, BA1 1EP 0845 293 8480, komedia.co.uk/bath. Cabaret and burlesque, comedy, punk and ska bands, tribute acts and more are all staged at this venue. The popular Krater Comedy Club is held on Sat, after which you can stay on for club nights. Meals are available.
Theatre RoyalSawclose, BA1 1ET 01225 448844, theatreroyal.org.uk. Theatre fans should check out what’s showing at this historic venue, if only for the atmosphere. More experimental productions are staged in its Ustinov Studio, with family shows at the egg.
Just twelve miles from Bath, on the borders of Gloucestershire and Somerset, BRISTOL has a very different feel from its sedate neighbour. The city’s mercantile roots are overlaid with an innovative, modern culture, fuelled by technology-based industries, a large student population and a lively arts and music scene. As well as its vibrant nightlife, the city’s sights range from medieval churches to cutting-edge attractions highlighting its maritime and scientific achievements. Weaving through its centre, the River Avon forms part of a system of waterways that made Bristol a great inland port, in later years booming on the transatlantic trafficking of rum, tobacco and slaves. In the nineteenth century, Isambard Kingdom Brunel laid the foundations of a tradition of engineering, creating two of Bristol’s greatest monuments: the ss Great Britain and lofty Clifton Suspension Bridge.
College Green, BS1 5TJ • Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat & Sun 8am–3.15pm; evensong Mon–Fri 5.15pm, Sat & Sun 3.30pm • Free • Tours Usually Sat 11.30am & 1.30pm; up to 1hr • Free • bristol-cathedral.co.uk
Founded as an abbey around 1140 on the supposed spot of St Augustine’s convocation with Celtic Christians in 603, venerable Bristol Cathedral became a cathedral church with the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the mid-sixteenth century. The two towers on the west front were erected in the nineteenth century in a faithful act of homage to Edmund Knowle, architect and abbot at the start of the fourteenth century. The interior offers a unique example among Britain’s cathedrals of a German-style “hall church”, in which the aisles, nave and choir rise to the same height. Abbot Knowle’s immense choir offers one of the country’s most exquisite illustrations of the early Decorated style of Gothic, while the adjoining thirteenth-century Elder Lady Chapel contains some fine tombs and eccentric carvings of animals, including (between the arches on the right) a monkey playing the bagpipes accompanied by a ram on the violin. The Eastern Lady Chapel has some of England’s finest examples of heraldic glass. From the south transept, a door leads to the Chapter House, a richly carved piece of late Norman architecture.
BANKSY AND BRISTOL STREET ART
An integral part of Bristol’s cultural profile, the street artist known as Banksy has (more or less) managed to maintain his anonymity, with exhibitions pulling crowds from London to LA. It was in Bristol, though, a city known since the 1980s for its graffiti, that he first made his mark, leaving his stencilled daubs and freehand murals on inner city walls. Websites such as bristol-street-art.co.uk allow you to track down his surviving murals, though it’s easy enough to locate his more iconic works such as The Mild Mild West on Stokes Croft and The Naked Man off the bottom of Park Street.
Banksy’s global celebrity has led to his works becoming accepted and even protected by city supremos, and the council has given its blessing to Upfest (upfest.co.uk), Europe’s largest street-art and graffiti festival; it takes place in Bedminster, South Bristol, over a weekend in late July.
THE SLAVE TRADE IN BRISTOL
Over two hundred years after the abolition of the British slave trade, Bristol is still haunted by the instrumental part it played in the trafficking of African men, women and children to the New World – indeed, according to some interpretations, it was Bristol-born Sir John Yeamans, a Barbados planter, who effectively introduced slavery to North America.
Throughout the eighteenth century, Bristol’s merchants participated in the “triangular trade” whereby brass pots, glass beads and other manufactured goods were traded for slaves on the coast of West Africa, who were then shipped to plantations in the Americas, the vessels returning to Europe with cargoes of sugar, cotton, tobacco and other slave-labour-produced commodities. By the 1730s, Bristol had become – along with London and Liverpool – one of the main beneficiaries of the trade; in 1750 alone, Bristol ships transported some eight thousand of the twenty thousand slaves sent to colonies in the Caribbean and America. The direct profits, together with the numerous spin-offs, helped to finance some of the city’s finest Georgian architecture.
The British slave trade was finally abolished in 1807, but its legacy is still felt strongly in the city, particularly in the divisive figure of Edward Colston. The eighteenth-century sugar magnate is revered by many as a great philanthropist – his name given to numerous buildings, streets and schools in Bristol – but also reviled as a leading light in the Royal African Company. His statue in The Centre has more than once been the subject of graffiti attacks and calls for its removal, and famous Bristol band Massive Attack refused to play the Colston Hall because of the connotations of its name, which is scheduled to be changed for the venue’s reopening in 2020.
Queen’s Rd, BS8 1RL • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, daily in hols • Free • 0117 922 3571, bristolmuseums.org.uk/bristol-museum-and-art-gallery
Housed in a grandiose Edwardian-Baroque building, the Bristol Museum and Art Gallery has sections on local archeology, geology and natural history, as well as an important collection of Chinese porcelain and some magnificent Assyrian reliefs carved in the eighth century BC. Artworks by Banksy, the Bristol School and French Impressionists are mixed in with some choice older pieces, including a portrait of Martin Luther by Cranach the Elder and Giovanni Bellini’s unusual Descent into Limbo.
21 Stephen’s St, off Corn St, BS1 1EQ • Mon–Fri 9.30am–3pm • Free • 0117 927 7977, saint-stephens.com
Hemmed in by characterless modern buildings just east of The Centre (as the elongated traffic intersection northeast of the cathedral is known), St Stephen’s is one of Bristol’s oldest and most graceful churches. It dates from the thirteenth century, was rebuilt in the fifteenth, and was thoroughly restored with plenty of neo-Gothic trimmings in 1875. The church has some flamboyant tombs inside, mainly of various members of the merchant class who were the church’s main patrons.
Corn St, BS1 1JQ • Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm • Free
The Georgian Corn Exchange, designed by John Wood the Elder, now contains the covered St Nicholas Markets, a lively spot for a bite to eat. The engraved brass pillars outside the entrance date from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and originally served as trading tables – thought to be the “nails” that gave rise to the expression “pay on the nail”.
36 The Horsefair, BS1 3JE • Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 1–4pm • Chapel free, museum £6 • 0117 926 4740, newroombristol.org.uk
Hidden within Broadmead shopping centre is the world’s first Methodist chapel, the New Room. Established by John Wesley in 1739, it looks very much as he left it, with a double-deck pulpit in the chapel, beneath a hidden upstairs window from which the evangelist could observe the progress of his trainee preachers. The rooms where Wesley stayed are now a museum illustrating the Bristol connections of John and his brother Charles.
King Street, a short walk southeast from The Centre, was laid out on marshland in 1663 and still holds a cluster of historic buildings, among them the Theatre Royal, the oldest working theatre in the country, opened in 1766 and preserving many of its original Georgian features. Further down, and in a very different architectural style, stands the timber-framed Llandoger Trow pub, once the haunt of seafarers, and reputed to have been the meeting place of Daniel Defoe and Alexander Selkirk, the model for Robinson Crusoe. South of King Street is the elegant, grassy Queen Square.
Redcliffe Way, Redcliffe, BS1 6RA • Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm, Sun 8am–8pm • Free • 0117 231 0060, www.stmaryredcliffe.co.uk
Described by Elizabeth I as “the fairest, goodliest and most famous parish church in England”, the richly decorated St Mary Redcliffe, across Redcliffe Bridge from The Centre, was largely paid for and used by merchants and mariners. The present building was begun at the end of the thirteenth century, though it was added to in subsequent centuries and its tall spire – a distinctive feature on the city’s skyline – dates from 1872. Above the church’s north porch is the muniment room, where Thomas Chatterton claimed to have found a trove of medieval manuscripts; the poems, distributed as the work of a fifteenth-century monk, were in fact dazzling fakes.
Anchor Rd, BS1 5DB • Daily 10am–5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am–6pm • £13.90, under-15s £8.95 • 0117 915 1000, wethecurious.org
Occupying a corner of the sleekly modern Millennium Square, marked out by the spherical, stainless-steel planetarium attached to one side, We the Curious deals with all things science. It’s chiefly aimed at children, but there’s enough interactive wizardry here to entertain everyone, with opportunities to view the blood in your veins, freeze your shadow and create your own short films (with input from Aardman Animations). The planetarium has up to eight shows daily; book when you buy your entry ticket (from £2.50 extra).
Princes Wharf, Wapping Rd, BS1 4RN • Tues–Sun & hols 10am–5pm • Free • Boat, train and crane rides on selected days throughout the year; £2–6 • 0117 352 6600, bristolmuseums.org.uk/m-shed
Housed in an old harbourside transit shed, the superb M-Shed is dedicated to Bristol itself, past and present. It’s an enjoyable, unashamedly populist survey, full of memorabilia and anecdotes and casting light on everything from the city’s mercantile history to its festivals and street life. On the ground floor, Bristol Places charts the city’s changing face, taking in its development as a port and the hardships of World War II. On the floor above, Bristol People and the adjoining Bristol Life look at the (often ordinary) folk who have shaped the city, with the former including a small display on Bristol’s links with the transatlantic slave trade. Afterwards, head out to the long terrace for fantastic harbour views.
Great Western Dockyard, BS1 6TY • Daily: April–Oct 10am–5.30pm; Nov–March 10am–4.30pm • £14 • 0117 926 0680, ssgreatbritain.org
Harbourside’s major draw, and one of Bristol’s iconic sights, the ss Great Britain was the first propeller-driven, ocean-going iron ship in the world, built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1843. She initially ran between Liverpool and New York, then Liverpool and Melbourne, circumnavigating the globe 32 times and chalking up over a million miles at sea. Her ocean-going days ended in 1886 when she was caught in a storm off Cape Horn, and she was eventually recovered and returned to Bristol in 1970. On board, you can see restored cabins and peer into the immense engine room, while the adjoining museum gives the background of the vessel and of Bristol’s long shipbuilding history.
On the western side of the city, Clifton, once an aloof spa resort, is now Bristol’s stateliest neighbourhood. At the top of Blackboy Hill, the wide green expanses of Durdham Down and Clifton Downs stretch right up to the edge of the Avon Gorge, a popular spot for picnickers, joggers and kite-flyers. On the southern edge of the Downs is the select enclave of Clifton Village, centred on the Mall, where Royal York Crescent, the longest Georgian crescent in the country, offers splendid views over the steep drop to the River Avon below.
Bridge Rd, BS8 3PA • Free, £1 for motor vehicles • Visitor Centre Daily 10am–5pm • Free • Guided tours Easter–Oct Sat & Sun 3pm; 45min • Free • cliftonbridge.org.uk
A few minutes’ walk from Clifton Village is Bristol’s most famous symbol, Clifton Suspension Bridge, 702ft long and poised 245ft above high water. Money was first put forward for a bridge to span the Avon Gorge by a Bristol wine merchant in 1754, though it wasn’t until 1829 that a competition was held for a design – won by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in a second round – and not until 1864 that the bridge was completed, five years after Brunel’s death. Hampered by financial difficulties, the bridge never quite matched the engineer’s original ambitious design, which included Egyptian-style towers topped by sphinxes at each end. You can see copies of his plans in the Visitor Centre at the far side of the bridge, alongside designs proposed by Brunel’s rivals, some of them frankly bizarre.
Arrival AND departure bristol
By train Temple Meads train station is a 20min walk east of the city centre.
Destinations Bath (every 15–30min; 15min); Birmingham (every 30min; 1hr 25min); Cheltenham (every 30min; 40min); Exeter (1–2 hourly; 1hr); Gloucester (Mon–Sat hourly, Sun every 2hr; 55min); London Paddington (2–3 hourly; 1hr 45min); Taunton (2–4 hourly; 30min–1hr); Yeovil (Mon–Sat 7 daily, Sun 4 daily; 1hr 30min).
By bus Bristol’s bus station (firstgroup.com) is centrally located off Marlborough St; at the time of writing, Megabus (megabus.com) services to and from London stop outside Black’s camping shop on Bond St (near the bus station), though check the website as this may change.
Destinations Bath (3–6 hourly; 40min); Glastonbury (every 30min; 1hr 40min); London (every 30min–1hr; 2hr 30min–3hr); Wells (every 30min; 1hr).
By ferry A ferry, setting off from the Quayhead, just south of The Centre, connects various parts of the Floating Harbour, including Temple Meads station and the ss Great Britain (every 40min; 10am–6.15pm; from £1.70 single, £2.90 return, £6.50 all-day ticket; 0117 927 3416, bristolferry.com).
By bus Local buses are useful for getting to Clifton’s upper reaches; take #8 or #9 from Temple Meads station or The Centre, which also connects the city’s train and bus stations.
Tourist office E-Shed, Canon’s Rd (daily 10am–5pm; 0906 711 2191, visitbristol.co.uk).
Tours Bristol In-Sight (0117 971 9279, bristolinsight.co.uk) runs a hop-on, hop-off, open-top bus tour of the city’s key sights (£15, £13 online), while Bristol Packet (0117 926 8157, bristolpacket.co.uk) offers cruises around the harbour, in the Avon Gorge and along the river to Bath (from £6.50).
With a few notable exceptions, good accommodation in Bristol is surprisingly thin on the ground. Hotels and B&Bs in the centre can suffer from traffic noise and the sound of late-night drinkers; for quieter and more traditional lodgings, choose Clifton.
9 Prince’s Buildings 9 Prince’s Buildings, Clifton, BS8 4LB 0117 973 4615, 9princesbuildings.co.uk; map. A short walk from the Clifton Suspension Bridge and within staggering distance of several real-ale pubs, this five-storey Georgian B&B, lovingly cared for by its easy-going owners, enjoys a grand view over the Avon Gorge from its antique-filled rooms. Great breakfasts, too. Singles from £72. No credit cards. £105
Bristol Marriott Royal HotelCollege Green, BS1 5TA 0117 925 5100, bristolmarriottroyal.co.uk; map. Right next to Bristol Cathedral, this Italianate-style Victorian hotel is by far the more attractive of the city’s two Marriotts, with spacious rooms, two restaurants, a Champagne bar and a lovely swimming pool. £110
Brooks GuesthouseExchange Ave, off St Nicholas St, BS1 1UB 0117 930 0066, brooksguesthousebristol.com; map. Set in the midst of bustling St Nicholas Markets, this boutique B&B has small but comfortable rooms. The airy, modern breakfast room gives onto a spacious courtyard for relaxing with a book or a drink. You can also stay in an airstream trailer on the roof (£99). £79
Clifton House4 Tyndall’s Park Rd, Clifton, BS8 1PG 0117 973 5407, cliftonhousebristol.com; map. This handily sited B&B at the bottom of Clifton and near the centre offers fairly plush rooms with big windows, modern bathrooms and plenty of space. There’s parking, too. £85
Hotel du VinThe Sugar House, Narrow Lewins Mead, BS1 2NU 0330 016 0390, hotelduvin.co.uk; map. Chic conversion of an old dockside warehouse, centrally located, with dark, contemporary decor. Rooms have big beds and grand bathrooms, and there’s an excellent restaurant to boot (see below). £129
Rock’n’Bowl Motel22 Nelson St, BS1 2LA 0117 325 1980, thelanesbristol.co.uk/hostel; map. Clean and efficient hostel in an ex-dole office above a busy bowling alley. Single- and mixed-gender dorms (4- to 20-person) and a few en-suite doubles and twins, plus a self-catering kitchen and laundry. Can be noisy. Dorms £15, doubles £65
YHA Bristol14 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA 0345 371 9726, yha.org.uk/hostel/bristol; map. In a refurbished grain house on the quayside, this warm and friendly hostel has mostly four-bed dorms, plus (smallish) private doubles. There’s a decent kitchen, and prices include an abundant breakfast. Dorms £15, doubles £39
Full Court Press 59 Broad St, BS1 2EJ 07794 808552, fcpcoffee.com; map. The select menu of superb speciality coffees at this dinky joint near St Nick’s Markets have made it an instant hit with local connoisseurs. Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Primrose Café1 Clifton Arcade, Boyces Ave, Clifton, BS8 4AA 0117 946 6577, primrosecafe.co.uk; map. Homely café in Clifton Village serving a good range of teas, fruit juices and wines, as well as a choice of breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, burgers and pancakes. There’s a roof garden open in summer, too. Daily 9/9.30am–5pm.
Watershed1 Canon’s Rd, BS1 5TX 0117 927 5101, watershed.co.uk; map. Cool café-bar overlooking the boats in a long-established arts complex. Good coffee and local beers are supplemented by an appetizing menu, and there’s a tiny (non-smoking) terrace. Mon–Fri 9.30am–11pm, Sat 10am–11pm, Sun 10am–10.30pm.
Bistro du Vin Hotel du Vin, The Sugar House, Narrow Lewins Mead, BS1 2NU 0117 925 5577, hotelduvin.com; map. Fine French bistro-style dining, using good seasonal West Country produce in its Modern European menu; most mains around £16. Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 5.30–10pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 5.30–10.30pm, Sun noon–4pm & 6–9.30pm.
Chai Shai4 Jacobs Well Rd, BS8 1EA 0117 925 0754; map. Friendly, laid-back Indian restaurant with an open kitchen and a small menu of light and tasty dishes such as saag ghosht (mutton and spinach), achari chicken and fish khata (all around £8). Book ahead, or wait in the neighbouring pub for a table to become free. Bring your own beers. Takeaways available. Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm & 4–11pm.
Lido Oakfield Place, Clifton, BS8 2BJ; restaurant entrance on Southleigh Rd 0117 332 3970, lidobristol.com; map. The glass-walled restaurant at this pool/spa complex overlooks the outdoor pool, and dining on dishes like seafood stew (£21) while others exercise makes them somehow tastier. There are set-price menus (£12–20), while in the poolside bar, breakfast is available until 11.30am and tapas from noon. Daily: restaurant noon–2.45pm & 6–9.45pm; poolside bar 8/9am–10pm.
Maitreya Social89 St Mark’s Rd, BS5 6HY 0117 951 0100, cafemaitreya.co.uk; map. Tucked away in the multicultural Easton neighbourhood, this easy-going place serves delicious, inventive vegetarian dishes like falafel with charred aubergine, or smoked shallot tart (both £12). The early-bird menu is great value (£15–17). Tues–Fri 6–11.30pm, Sat 10am–11.30pm, Sun 10am–3pm.
riverstationThe Grove, BS1 4RB 0117 914 4434, riverstation.co.uk; map. Two-storey former river-police station, with all-day brunches, tapas and flatbreads at the relaxed ground-floor bar and more refined Modern European dining upstairs, where mains cost £15–24 and set-price meals £15–19. Bag a table by the window for dockside views. Restaurant Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6–10pm, Sun noon–3pm; bar Mon–Sat 10am–11pm (kitchen until 10pm), Sun 10am–10pm (kitchen until 8pm).
Salt & MaltCargo 2, Museum St, BS1 6WD 01275 333 345, saltmalt.com; map. Housed in a shipping container, this smart little fish bar has lightly fried cod, haddock and plaice and crispy chips. It’s ideal for mooching along the harbourfront, or you can eat at small tables within view of the boats. Cod and chips is £7.50 to take away, £11.50 at table. Alternatives include battered halloumi. Tues–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–8pm.
SevernshedThe Grove, BS1 4RB 0117 925 1212, severnshedrestaurant.co.uk; map.Severnshed, which has a waterside terrace, serves pastas and pizzas (from £8) and grills, including meat and fish firesticks (£17–21), as well as cocktails until late. DJs provide the soundtrack on Sat evenings. Mon–Thurs 10am–11pm, Fri 10am–1am, Sat 9am–1am, Sun 9am–11pm.
Source1–3 Exchange Ave, off St Nicholas St, BS1 1JW 0117 927 2998, source-food.co.uk; map. Almost all the food in this relaxed deli and canteen next to St Nick’s Markets is from the West Country, and much of it is organic – for example, fish soup, spiced aubergine and charcuterie-style cold meats (£7–11). Breakfasts, teas and cakes are also available. Mon–Sat 8am–4pm.
Thali Café1 Regent St, Clifton, BS8 4HW 0117 974 3793, thethalicafe.co.uk; map.Dhaba-style South Asian food in vibrant surroundings. This Clifton branch – there are four others across Bristol – has the trademark deep-pink decor and range of tasty thalis, a balanced selection of dishes served on a stainless-steel platter (from £9.50). Daily 5–10pm, Sat & Sun noon–10pm.
Browns38 Queen’s Rd, BS8 1RE 0117 930 4777, browns-restaurants.com; map. Spacious and relaxed place, housed in the Venetian-style former university refectory. The wide choice of tipples includes a range of beers, wines, Champagnes and cocktails.Mon–Thurs 9am–11pm, Fri & Sat 9am–midnight, Sun 9am–10.30pm.
CanteenHamilton House, 80 Stokes Croft, BS1 3QY 0117 923 2017, canteenbristol.co.uk; map. Overlooked by one of Banksy’s most famous murals, a drab 1960s office block now accommodates this popular collective-style bar. Take a seat at a graffitied table for a coffee or a pint, accompanied most nights from 9.30pm by live music (but Sun 4–6pm) and DJs. Mon–Thurs 10am–midnight, Fri & Sat 10am–1am, Sun 10am–11pm.
The Coronation Tap 8 Sion Place, Clifton, BS8 4AX 0117 973 9617, thecoronationtap.com; map. A proper cider house, the Cori Tap produces its own Exhibition “apple juice”, which is sold by the half-pint only, and stocks a wide range of locally produced ciders. Excellent live music, too. Daily 5.30–11.30pm, Sat & Sun 7–11.30pm.
Grain BargeMardyke Wharf, Hotwell Rd, BS8 4RU 0117 929 9347, grainbarge.com; map. Floating pub, café and restaurant near the mouth of the harbour, with a tranquil ambience and half a dozen real ales brewed at the Bristol Beer Factory. Interesting calendar of events, including occasional live music on Thurs evenings. Daily noon–11pm, Thurs–Sat noon–11.30pm.
Llandoger Trow1–3 King St, BS1 4ER 0117 926 1650, brewersfayre.co.uk; map. Seventeenth-century drinking den full of history, with cosy nooks and armchairs, benches outside and a restaurant upstairs. Snacks and full meals available. Gets very busy on summer evenings. Mon–Sat 7.30am–11pm, Sun 8am–10.30pm.
No.1 Harbourside1 Canon’s Rd, BS1 5UH 0117 929 1100, no1harbourside.co.uk; map. Laidback spot for drinks, snacks (including veggie and vegan choices) and live music (Wed–Sun) until late. Sun evenings are for dancing, from flamenco to swing. Mon & Sun 10am–11pm, Tues–Thurs 10am–midnight, Fri & Sat 10am–1am.
The Strawberry Thief26 Broad St, BS1 2HG 0117 925 6925, strawberrythiefbar.com; map. Boasting the West Country’s largest selection of Belgian beers (around fifty), as well as a good twenty UK craft beers, this place has a mellow vibe, with small tables and William Morris wallpaper. Food (including brunches and waffles) is gluten-free, mostly vegan and served until 9.30pm. Tues–Thurs 4–11pm, Fri 4pm–midnight, Sat noon–midnight.
White LionAvon Gorge Hotel, Sion Hill, Clifton, BS8 4LD 0117 403 0210, theavongorgehotel.com; map. Attached to a hotel perched on the edge of the Gorge in Clifton Village, this modern bar draws in the crowds thanks to its broad terrace, affording magnificent views of the gorge and suspension bridge. Food available. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10.30pm.
The FiddlersWillway St, Bedminster, BS3 4BG 0117 987 3403, fiddlers.co.uk; map. Mainly roots bands, good-time retro acts and niche artists perform at this relaxed, family-run venue (formerly a prison) south of the river.
The Fleece12 St Thomas St, BS1 6JJ 0117 945 0996, thefleece.co.uk; map. Stone-flagged ex-wool warehouse, now a loud, sweaty pub staging everything from acoustic blues and alt-country to punk and deathcore.
The LouisianaWapping Rd, BS1 6UA 0117 926 5978, www.thelouisiana.net; map. Established music pub with a well-earned reputation for helping break bands (The White Stripes, Florence + the Machine) and promoting local artists. It’s a mite cramped, but the acoustics and atmosphere are excellent.
SWX 15 Nelson St, BS1 2JY 0117 945 0325, swxbristol.com; map. A real super-club, one of the largest in Bristol, and home to various club nights, as well as live music and comedy.
TheklaThe Grove, BS1 4RB 0117 929 3301, theklabristol.co.uk; map. Ex-cargo boat, now a much-loved venue staging a varied line-up of live bands plus indie, house and club nights.
Bristol Old VicKing’s St, BS1 4ED 0117 987 7877, bristololdvic.org.uk. Britain’s oldest working theatre, dating from the 1760s, retains its Georgian interior but has modern facilities. It lays on a full programme of mainstream and more experimental productions in its main auditorium and the Studio.
St George’sGreat George St, BS1 5RR 0845 402 4001, stgeorgesbristol.co.uk. Elegant Georgian church with superb acoustics, staging a packed programme of lunchtime and evening concerts covering classical, world, folk and jazz music.
Tobacco FactoryRaleigh Rd, Southville, BS3 1ET 0117 902 0344, tobaccofactorytheatres.com. South of the river, this theatre offers a broad spectrum of drama, dance, comedy and other performing arts on two stages.
The miniature cathedral city of WELLS, 21 miles south of Bristol and the same distance southwest from Bath, has not significantly altered in eight hundred years. Charming and compact, it is eminently walkable, and a stroll around its tightly knit streets reveals a cluster of medieval buildings, archways and almshouses.
Cathedral Green, BA5 2UE • Daily: April–Sept 7am–7pm; Oct–March 7am–6pm • Free, but suggested donation £6 • Tours Usually Mon–Sat: April–Oct 11am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm; Nov–March 11am, noon & 2pm; 1hr • Free • 01749 674483, wellscathedral.org.uk
Hidden from sight until you pass into its spacious close from central Market Place, Wells Cathedral presents a majestic spectacle. The west front teems with some three hundred thirteenth-century figures of saints and kings, once brightly painted and gilded, though their present honey tint has a subtle splendour of its own. The sensational facade was constructed about fifty years after work on the main building was begun in 1180.
Lydia Evans/Rough Guides
BANKSY MURAL, BRISTOL
The interior is a supreme example of early English Gothic, the long nave punctuated by a dramatic and very modern-looking “scissor arch”, one of three that were constructed in 1338 to take the extra weight of the newly built tower. Beyond the arches, there are some gnarled old tombs to be seen in the aisles of the Quire, at the end of which is the richly coloured stained glass of the fourteenth-century Lady Chapel. The capitals and corbels of the transepts hold some amusing narrative carvings, and in the north transept there’s a 24-hour astronomical clock dating from 1390. Opposite the clock, a well-worn flight of steps leads to the Chapter House, an octagonal room elaborately ribbed in the Decorated style.
8 Cathedral Green, BA5 2UE • Mon–Sat: Easter–Sept 10am–5pm; Oct–Easter 10am–4pm • £3 • 01749 673477, wellsmuseum.org.uk
The row of clerical houses on the north side of Cathedral Green mainly dates from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The chancellor’s house is now the Wells & Mendip Museum, displaying some of the cathedral’s original statuary as well as a good geological section with fossils from the Mendip area. There are also changing exhibitions, with a focus on World War I until late 2018, then on the history of Wells itself.
Market Place, BA5 2RA • Daily: Early Jan to March & Nov to late Dec 10am–4pm; April–Oct 10am–6pm • £7.25 • Tours Daily 11am & 2pm (palace), noon & 3pm (grounds); palace 30min, grounds 45min • Included in entry fee • 01749 988111, bishopspalace.org.uk
The tranquil grounds of the Bishop’s Palace, residence of the Bishop of Bath and Wells since 1206, are reachable through the Bishop’s Eye archway from Market Place. The palace was walled and moated as a result of a rift with the borough in the fourteenth century, and the imposing gatehouse still features the grooves of the portcullis and a chute for pouring oil and molten lead on would-be assailants. The gardens contain the springs from which the city takes its name and the scant but impressive remains of the Great Hall, built at the end of the thirteenth century and despoiled during the Reformation. Across the lawn stand the square Bishop’s Chapel and Bishop Jocelyn’s Hall, a few state rooms holding displays relating to the history of the site, and the Undercroft café.
Arrival and information wells
By bus Buses (0345 602 0121, firstgroup.com/somerset) pull in at the station off Market St.
Destinations Bath (Mon–Sat 2 hourly, Sun hourly; 1hr 25min); Bristol (every 30min; 1hr); Glastonbury (Mon–Sat every 15min, Sun every 30min; 15min); Taunton (Mon–Sat every 2hr; 1hr 40min); Wookey Hole (Mon–Sat 1–2 hourly, Sun 4 daily; 5–10min); Yeovil (Mon–Sat hourly; 1hr 20min).
Tourist office Wells & Mendip Museum, 8 Cathedral Green (Mon–Sat: Easter–Sept 10am–5pm; Oct–Easter Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; 01749 671770, wellssomerset.com).
BerylHawkers Lane, BA5 3JP, 1 mile northeast of Wells 01749 678738, www.beryl-wells.co.uk. Luxury country-house B&B, a former hunting lodge, set in lovely gardens with a children’s play area and pool (May–Sept). Decor varies between the fourteen rooms – some are quite twee, others stylishly understated – though all enjoy good views. £100
The CrownMarket Place, BA5 2RP 01749 673457, crownatwells.co.uk. Fifteenth-century coaching inn where William Penn was arrested in 1695 for illegal preaching; it’s got a suitably old-fashioned flavour that verges on the fusty and faded. Rooms can be noisy from the bar and bistro below and/or the Wed and Sat markets. £95
The Good Earth 4 Priory Rd, BA5 1SY 01749 678600, thegoodearthwells.co.uk. Excellent wholefood restaurant that was making a name for itself with its delicious home-made quiches long before eco food was in vogue. Soups, salads, veggie pizzas and other organic goodies (mains from £7) available to eat in or take away. Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat 9am–5pm.
Square Edge Café2 Town Hall Buildings, Market Place, BA5 1SE 01749 671166, square-edgecafe.co.uk. Close to the sights, this retro café makes a cosy spot for a cup of first-rate coffee and a slice of cake. You can also opt for a full breakfast or a snack lunch, such as a hummus platter (£10.50) or a bun stuffed with beef brisket (£11). The atmospheric interior has two fireplaces and a range of ancient radios among other curios, and there’s an equally quirky courtyard. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm.
Swan HotelSadler St, BA5 2RX 01749 836300, swanhotelwells.co.uk. This swanky and rambling inn has plenty of antique character, plus friendly service and a rated restaurant (for which booking is essential). Pricier rooms have cathedral views. £148
Northwest of Wells, the ancient woodland, exposed heaths and limestone crags of the Mendip Hills are chiefly famous for Wookey Hole – the most impressive of many caves in this narrow limestone chain – and for Cheddar Gorge, where a walk through the narrow cleft makes a starting point for more adventurous hikes across the Mendips.
Two miles northwest of Wells, BA5 1BB • Tours daily every 10–30min: April–Oct 10am–6pm; Nov–March 10am–5pm; last tour 1hr before closing; 1hr • £19, online £17.10 • 01749 672243, wookey.co.uk
It’s folklore rather than geology that takes precedence at Wookey Hole, a stunning cave complex of deep pools and intricate rock formations hollowed out by the River Axe. Highlight of the tour is the alleged petrified remains of the Witch of Wookey, a “blear-eyed hag” who was said to turn her evil eye on crops, young lovers and local farmers. To finish off, there’s a functioning Victorian paper mill and rooms containing speleological exhibits, plus a melange of family “attractions” that range from King Kong to a Clown Museum.
The nondescript village of CHEDDAR, six miles west of Wookey on the A371, has given its name to Britain’s best-known cheese – most of it now mass-produced far from here – and is also renowned for Cheddar Gorge, lying about a mile to the north. Cutting a jagged gash across the Mendip Hills, the limestone gorge is an amazing geological phenomenon, though its natural beauty is compromised by Lower Gorge’s mile of trinket shops and parking. Few venture further than the first few curves of the gorge, which hold its most dramatic scenery – at its narrowest, the road squeezes between cliffs towering almost 500ft above – though each turn of the two-mile length presents new, sometimes startling vistas.
Up the 274 steps of Jacob’s Ladder is a clifftop tower with views to Glastonbury Tor (daily 10am–5pm; £5.50, free to Cheddar Caves ticket-holders). From the tower, there’s a circular three-mile clifftop Gorge Walk, and you can branch off along marked paths to spots including Black Down and Beacon Batch, at 1068ft the Mendips’ highest point.
BS27 3QF • Daily 10am–5pm • £17.95, online £15.25 • 01934 742343, cheddargorge.co.uk
Beneath the towering Cheddar Gorge, the Cheddar Caves were scooped out by underground rivers in the wake of the Ice Age, and subsequently occupied by primitive communities. Today, the caves are floodlit to pick out the subtle tones of the rock, and the array of rock formations that resemble organ pipes, waterfalls and giant birds.
Arrival and information The mendips
By bus Public transport is essentially limited to #67 from Wells to Wookey Hole (Mon–Fri 7 daily; 10min), and #126 from Wells to Cheddar (Mon–Sat hourly, 4 on Sun; 25min).
By car The Mendips are best explored on your own wheels.
Tourist information There’s an information desk at the National Trust shop in Cheddar Gorge (Easter to late Oct daily 10am–5pm; late Oct to Christmas & late Feb to Easter Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; 01934 744689).
Chedwell Cottage59 Redcliffe St, Cheddar, BS27 3PF 01934 743268, chedwellcottage.co.uk. The charming owners of this homely B&B, in a quiet lane a 10min walk from the gorge, provide three simple en-suite rooms and delicious breakfasts which include home-made bread. No cards. £75
The Wookey Hole InnWookey Hole, BA5 1BP 01749 676677, wookeyholeinn.com. Very close to the caves, this is a great place to stay, with funky, fully equipped guest rooms and a restaurant (booking essential) serving expensive but memorable dishes (mains from £13). Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–3pm.£75
YHA Cheddar Hillfield, Cheddar, BS27 3HN 0345 371 9730, yha.org.uk. Clinically refurbished Victorian house with clean, spacious rooms – four- to six-bed dorms, en-suite doubles and family rooms – and a decent kitchen. Dorms £13, doubles £29
On the southern edge of the Mendips and six miles south of Wells, GLASTONBURY, famed for its annual music festival, is built around the evocative set of ruins belonging to its former abbey. The town lies at the heart of the so-called Isle of Avalon, a region rich with mystical associations, and for centuries it has been one of the main Arthurian sites of the West Country – today, it’s an enthusiastic centre for all manner of New Age pursuits.
Magdalene St, BA6 9EL • Daily: March–May, Sept & Oct 9am–6pm; June–Aug 9am–8pm; Nov–Feb 9am–4pm • £7.50, online £6.67 • 01458 832267, glastonburyabbey.com
Aside from its mythological origins, Glastonbury Abbey can claim to be the country’s oldest Christian foundation, dating back a least to the seventh century. Enlarged by St Dunstan in the tenth century, it became the country’s richest Benedictine abbey, and three Anglo-Saxon kings (Edmund, Edgar and Edmund Ironside) were buried here. The abbey was the longest in Europe by the time it was destroyed in the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539, and the ruins, now hidden behind walls and among parkland, only hint at its former extent. The most complete set of remains is the shell of the Lady Chapel, with its carved figures of the Annunciation, the Magi and Herod.
GLASTONBURY TALES
At the heart of the complex web of myths surrounding Glastonbury is the early Christian legend that Jesus once visited this site – not quite as far-fetched as it sounds. The Romans had a heavy presence in the area, mining lead in the Mendips, and one of these mines was owned by Joseph of Arimathea, who is said to have been related to Mary. It’s not completely unfeasible that he took his kinsman along on one of his many visits, in a period of Christ’s life about which nothing is recorded. William Blake was referring to this possibility in his Glastonbury Hymn, better known as Jerusalem: “And did those feet in ancient times/Walk upon England’s mountains green?”
Another legend relates how Joseph was imprisoned for twelve years after the Crucifixion, miraculously kept alive by the Holy Grail, the chalice of the Last Supper, in which the blood was gathered from the wound in Christ’s side. The Grail, along with the spear that had caused the wound, were later taken by Joseph to Glastonbury, where he built the “First Church”, around which the abbey later grew, and commenced the conversion of Britain.
Glastonbury is also popularly identified with the mythical Avalon. The story goes that King Arthur, having been mortally wounded, sailed to Avalon where he was buried in the abbey’s choir, alongside his queen – somehow Glastonbury was taken to be the best candidate for the place.
GLASTONBURY FESTIVAL
Glastonbury Festival of Contemporary and Performing Arts (glastonburyfestivals.co.uk) takes place most years over four days in late June, with happy campers braving the predictable mudfest at Worthy Farm, six miles east of Glastonbury. Having started as a small hippy affair in the 1970s, “Glasto” has become the biggest and best-organized festival in the country, without shedding too much of its alternative feel. Much more than just a music festival, large parts of the sprawling site are given over to themed “lifestyle” areas, from the meditation marquees of Green Fields to campfire-filled Strummerville and futuristic Arcadia. Bands cover all musical spectrums– recent headliners have included Foo Fighters, Radiohead and Ed Sheeran. Despite the steep price (£243), tickets are invariably snapped up within hours of going on sale around October of the previous year.
The abbey’s choir, announced by the striking transept piers, holds what is alleged to be the tomb of Arthur and Guinevere. The discovery of two bodies in an ancient cemetery by the abbey in 1191 was taken to confirm that here was, indeed, the mystical Avalon. Elsewhere in the grounds, the fourteenth-century abbot’s kitchen is the only monastic building to survive intact, with four huge corner fireplaces and a great central lantern. Behind the main entrance to the grounds, look out for the thorn tree that is supposedly a descendant of the original Glastonbury Thorn on Wearyall Hill, said to have sprouted from the staff of Joseph of Arimathea.
9 High St, BA6 9DP • Mon–Sat 10am–3pm • £3.50; EH • 01458 832954, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/glastonbury-tribunal
The fifteenth-century Glastonbury Tribunal makes an atmospheric setting for the small but interesting Glastonbury Lake Village Museum, with displays from the Iron Age settlements that fringed the former marshland below the Tor. The villages’ wattle houses were rebuilt on layers of clay as they slowly submerged into the marshes, and the perfectly preserved finds include jewellery made from animal bones and a 3000-year-old wooden canoe.
Chilkwell St, BA6 8DB • 10am–5pm: Easter–Oct Tues–Sun; Nov–Easter Tues–Sat • £5.45 • 01458 831197, somersetrurallifemuseum.org.uk
Centred around the fourteenth-century Abbey Barn, the engaging Somerset Rural Life Museum has historically focused on a range of local rural occupations, from cider-making and peat-digging to the unusual practice of mud-horse fishing, named after the sledge shrimpers used to navigate the mud flats of Bridgwater Bay.
Just east of town, BA6 8BG • Free; NT • nationaltrust.org.uk/glastonbury-tor
Towering over the Somerset Levels, the 521ft-high conical hill of Glastonbury Tor commands stupendous views as far as the Welsh mountains on very clear days. It is topped by the dilapidated St Michael’s Tower, sole remnant of a fourteenth-century church, and pilgrims once embarked on the stiff climb up here with hard peas in their shoes as penance – nowadays, people come to picnic, fly kites or feel the vibrations of crossing ley lines.
Arrival and information glastonbury
By bus Frequent buses (firstgroup.com) #29, #75, #77 and #376 connect Glastonbury with Wells; #376 also goes to Bristol and #29 to Taunton.
Destinations Bristol (every 30min; 1hr 25min); Taunton (Mon–Sat every 2hr; 1hr 15min); Wells (Mon–Sat 3–4 hourly, Sun every 30min; 15min).
Tourist office Glastonbury Tribunal, 9 High St (Mon–Sat 10am–3.15pm; 01458 832954, glastonburytic.co.uk).
By bus The Glastonbury Tor Bus (April–Sept daily 10am–5pm; £3, valid all day) runs from the abbey car park to the base of the Tor every 30min, and stops at the Somerset Rural Life Museum (when open) and Chalice Well.
By bike Lintells Garage, 140 Wells Rd (01458 832117, lintellsgarage.co.uk), rents bikes for £15/day.
George & Pilgrim Hotel1 High St, BA6 9DP 01458 831146, georgeandpilgrim.relaxinnz.co.uk. This fifteenth-century oak-panelled inn with mullioned windows brims with medieval atmosphere. It’s tired and worn in parts and some of the rooms are a bit ordinary – go for one of the older ones, which include frilly four-posters. £86
Isle of AvalonGodney Rd, BA6 9AF 01458 833618, avaloncaravanpark.co.uk. Convenient campsite a 10min walk from Northload St and within sight of the Tor. The pitches are spacious, and there’s a well-stocked shop, plus decent washing facilities and a freezer for cool-box ice packs. £18
Magdalene HouseMagdalene St, BA6 9EJ 01458 830202, magdalenehouseglastonbury.com. In a former convent directly abutting the abbey grounds, this B&B has three stylish, spacious en-suites (one overlooking the abbey, the others with views to Wearyall Hill) with comfy beds. The generous breakfasts use local and organic products. No children under 7. No debit/credit cards. £95
Middlewick Holiday CottagesWick Lane, BA6 8JW, 1.5 miles north of Glastonbury 01458 832351, middlewickholidaycottages.co.uk. A dozen self-catering cottages plus cabins (£81) in rural surroundings, the former with stone walls, oak floors and, in some, cosy wood burners. There’s a steam room, indoor pool, BBQ and pizza oven. £90
Blue Note Café4a High St, BA6 8DU 01458 832907. A relaxed place to hang out over coffees and cakes with some courtyard seating. It’s vegetarian and mostly organic, with nourishing soups, salads and halloumi burgers (mains from £6; three tapas for £10). Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri & Sat 9am–11pm.
Hawthorns 8–12 Northload St, BA6 9JJ 01458 831255, hawthornshotel.co.uk. Homely bar and restaurant whose main draws are its curries (£13) and music sessions (Tues, Thurs, Fri from about 8pm; Sun 5–7pm). Mon–Wed 6–11pm, Thurs noon–3pm & 6–11pm, Fri & Sat noon–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm; kitchen daily till 9pm.
Hundred Monkeys52 High St, BA6 9DY 01458 833386, hundredmonkeyscafe.com. Mellow contemporary café/restaurant whose wholesome offerings include seafood stew (£11.50) and aubergine and tamarind curry (£10), as well as gourmet salads (from £9) and some great cakes. You can sit outdoors at the back. Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 8am–9pm.
King Arthur 31–33 Benedict St, BA6 9NB 01458 831442. Wood-floored freehouse near St Benedict’s Church, serving snacks, burgers (from £7) and a great Sunday roast (£9), plus there’s live music most nights and a garden. Mon & Tues 3pm–midnight, Wed–Sun noon–midnight; kitchen Mon–Sat till 10pm, Sun till 4.30pm.
West of Glastonbury, the county town of TAUNTON makes a handy starting point for excursions into the Quantock Hills, and is home to the excellent Museum of Somerset. While in town, take a look at the pinnacled and battlemented towers of its two most important churches – St James on Coal Orchard and St Mary Magdalene on Church Square – both fifteenth-century structures remodelled by the Victorians.
Taunton Castle, Castle Green, TA1 4AA • Tues–Sat 10am–5pm • Free • 01823 255088, museumofsomerset.org.uk
Started in the twelfth century, Taunton Castle staged the trial of royal claimant Perkin Warbeck, who in 1490 declared himself to be the Duke of York, the younger of the “Princes in the Tower” – the sons of Edward IV, who had been murdered seven years earlier. Parts of the structure were pulled down in 1662 and much of the rest has been altered, and it now houses the Museum of Somerset, a wide-ranging display that includes finds from Somerset’s Lake Villages; the “Frome Hoard”, the second-largest collection of Roman coins ever discovered in Britain; and a superb fragment of Roman mosaic found near Langport in the Somerset Levels. The ground-floor Great Hall was where Judge Jeffreys held one of his “Bloody Assizes” following the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685, at which 144 prisoners were sentenced to be hanged, drawn and quartered.
SOMERSET CIDER FARMS
Nothing is quite so synonymous with Somerset as cider, a drink ingrained in the regional identity. Most pubs across the region stock one or two local ciders, but for the real deal it’s hard to beat a visit to a working cider farm itself, where you can sample traditional ciders (around £4.10 for 2 litres) and learn more about the cider-making process.
Burrow Hill Cider Farm Pass Vale Farm, Burrow Hill, TA12 6BU 01460 240782, ciderbrandy.co.uk. Tastings are done in an old, dark cider house dripping with atmosphere – try one of their single-variety, bottle-fermented sparkling ciders. Tours by arrangement.
Perry’s Cider Mills Dowlish Wake, TA19 0NY 01460 55195, perryscider.co.uk. Archetypal cider farm and orchards, with a dozen farmhouse and single-variety ciders, plus a small rural museum.
Sheppy’s Cider Three Bridges, Bradford-on-Tone, TA4 1ER 01823 461233, sheppyscider.com. Complex combining a shop, tearooms, museum, and orchards complete with resident herd of longhorn cattle. Tours available (Fri & Sat 2pm; 1hr 30min; £10).
WilkinsLands End Farm, Wedmore, BS28 4TU 01934 712385, wilkinscider.com. Legendary cider-maker Roger Wilkins offers generous tastings in his Banksy-decorated barn up on the Isle of Wedmore.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION taunton
By train The station lies a 20min walk north of town. There’s also the West Somerset Railway (west-somerset-railway.co.uk), which terminates at Bishops Lydeard.
Destinations Bristol (2–3 hourly; 30min–1hr); Exeter (2–3 hourly; 25min).
By bus Taunton’s bus station (firstgroup.com) is off Castle Green.
Destinations Bishops Lydeard (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 25min); Combe Florey (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 35min); Dulverton (Mon–Sat every 2hr; 1hr 25min); Dunster (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr 15min); Glastonbury (Mon–Sat every 2hr; 1hr 20min); London Paddington (4 daily; 3hr 25min–4hr 20min); Minehead (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr 25min); Wells (Mon–Sat 6 daily; 1hr 40min); Yeovil (Mon–Sat hourly, Sun 2 daily; 1hr–1hr 20min).
Tourist office Market House, Fore St (Mon–Sat 9.30am–4.30pm; 01823 340470, visitsomerset.co.uk/taunton). Provides information and publications on the whole area, including the Quantocks.
Brookfield House16 Wellington Rd, TA1 4EQ 01823 272786, brookfieldguesthouse.uk.com. This B&B close to the centre makes for a clean and comfortable stay, though light sleepers should choose rooms at the back. Evening meals can be arranged, and there’s limited off-road parking. No under-8s. £93
The CastleCastle Green, TA1 1NF 01823 272671, the-castle-hotel.com. A wisteria-clad, three-hundred-year-old mansion next to Taunton Castle, this hotel has atmospheric public rooms, though some of the bedrooms are fairly ordinary, with dated decor. £130
The Cosy ClubHunts Court, Corporation St, TA1 4AJ 01823 253476, cosyclub.co.uk. In a converted Victorian arts college, this bar-restaurant has several rooms across two floors, with comfy chairs and delightfully quirky decor. Coffees, teas and meals are available; burgers cost from £9 and tapas are £12 for three. Mon–Wed & Sun 9am–11pm, Thurs–Sat 9am–12.30am; kitchen daily 9am–10pm.
Extending for some twelve miles north of Taunton, the Quantock Hills offer some marvellous hiking opportunities off the beaten track. Its snug villages, many of them boasting beautifully preserved churches, are connected by steep, narrow lanes and set in scenic wooded valleys or “combes” that are watered by clear streams and grazed by red deer.
The pretty village of NETHER STOWEY is best known for its association with Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who in 1796 walked here from Bristol to join his wife and child at their new home. Coleridge drew inspiration for some of his best-known works while rambling in the countryside here, and you can pick up a leaflet at his former abode for the Coleridge Way (coleridgeway.co.uk), a walking route supposedly following the poet’s footsteps between Nether Stowey and Lynmouth; waymarked with quill signs, the 51-mile hike passes through some of the most scenic tracts of the Quantocks and Exmoor.
35 Lime St, TA5 1NQ • March–Oct Mon & Thurs–Sun 11am–5pm; early to mid-Dec Sat & Sun 11am–3pm • £6.20; NT • 01643 821314, nationaltrust.org.uk/coleridgecottage
At this “miserable cottage”, as Sara Coleridge rather harshly called what is now Coleridge Cottage, you can see the poet’s parlour, reading room and bedroom, plus an exhibition containing letters and first editions. Rooms are laid out as they would have been in the eighteenth century, and there’s a re-creation of the poet’s “lime-tree bower” in the garden.
On the southwestern edge of the Quantocks, the village of BISHOPS LYDEARD, terminus of the restored West Somerset Railway line, is worth a wander, not least for St Mary’s church, which has a splendid tower and carved bench-ends inside. A couple of miles north, pretty COMBE FLOREY is almost exclusively built of the pink-red sandstone characteristic of Quantock villages. For over fifteen years (1829–45), the local rector was the unconventional cleric Sydney Smith, called “the greatest master of ridicule since Swift” by the essayist Macaulay; more recently the village was home to Evelyn Waugh.
A little over three miles further north along the A358, CROWCOMBE is another typical cob-and-thatch Quantock village, with a well-preserved Church House from 1515 and a lovely old church with a superb collection of pagan-looking carved bench-ends. A minor road from here winds up to Triscombe Stone, in the heart of the Quantocks, from where a footpath leads for about a mile to the range’s highest point at Wills Neck (1260ft).
Stretching between Wills Neck and the village of Aisholt, the moorland plateau of Aisholt Common is best explored from West Bagborough, where a five-mile path starts at Birches Corner. Lower down the slopes, outside Aisholt, the banks of Hawkridge Reservoir make a lovely picnic stop.
Getting around The Quantock Hills
By public transport The West Somerset Railway (west-somerset-railway.co.uk) stops near some of the villages along the west flank of the range, but public transport actually in the Quantocks is minimal.
The Blue Ball InnTriscombe, TA4 3HE 01984 618242, blueball.pub. This secluded inn below Wills Neck has two tastefully decorated B&B rooms, plus meals sourced from neighbouring farms (evening mains £12–16), good local ales and a nice pub garden. Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun noon–7pm; kitchen Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–4pm.£75
Carew ArmsCrowcombe, TA4 4AD 01984 618631, thecarewarms.co.uk. Don’t be put off by the stags’ heads covering the walls and the riding boots by the fire – this is a delightful rustic pub with a skittles alley and a spacious garden. Local ales complement the top-notch nosh, with mains from £9.50. Half a dozen rooms also available. Easter–Sept daily noon–11pm; Oct–Easter Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 5–11pm, Sun noon–6pm.£50
Mill Farm Caravan and Camping ParkFiddington, TA5 1JQ, a couple of miles east of Nether Stowey 01278 732286, millfarm.biz. This family-friendly campsite has indoor and outdoor pools (open summer only), a boating lake, a gym and pony rides. Advance booking essential at peak times. Closed Dec to mid-March. £13.50
The Old HouseSt Mary St, Nether Stowey, TA5 1LJ 01278 732392, theoldhouse-quantocks.co.uk. This large house in the centre of the village once accommodated Samuel Coleridge. The two rooms – Sarah’s Room and the huge Coleridge Suite – are period-furnished, and there’s an acre of garden. Self-catering cottages also available (from £350/week). £85
Parsonage FarmOver Stowey, TA5 1HA, a mile south of Nether Stowey 01278 733237, parsonagefarm.uk. In the shadow of a lovely old Quantock church, this homely B&B with its own orchard and walled kitchen garden has stone floors, brick fireplaces and heaps of character. Run organically and sustainably by a native of Vermont, it offers a Vermont breakfast among other options, and simple candlelit suppers (£12). £70
A high, bare plateau sliced by wooded combes and gurgling streams, EXMOOR (www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk) can present one of the most forbidding landscapes in England, especially when shrouded in a sea mist. On clear days, though, the moorland of this National Park reveals rich bursts of colour and an amazing diversity of wildlife, from buzzards to the unique Exmoor ponies, a breed closely related to prehistoric horses and now endangered; in the treeless heartland of the moor in particular, it’s not difficult to spot these short and stocky animals. Much more elusive are the red deer, England’s largest native wild animal, of which Exmoor supports the country’s only wild population.
Endless walking routes are possible along a network of some six hundred miles of footpaths and bridleways, and horseriding is another option for getting the most out of Exmoor’s desolate beauty. Inland, there are four obvious bases for walks, all on the Somerset side of the county border: Dulverton in the southeast, site of the main information facilities; Simonsbath in the centre; Exford, near Exmoor’s highest point at Dunkery Beacon; and the attractive village of Winsford, close to the A396 on the east of the moor.
Exmoor’s coastline offers an alluring alternative to the open moorland, all of it accessible via the South West Coast Path, which embarks on its long coastal journey at Minehead, though there is more charm to be found further west at the sister villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, just over the Devon border.
getting around exmoor
In addition to the sketchy scheduled bus service (www.filers.co.uk, firstgroup.com & quantockheritage.com), the Moor Rover provides on-demand transport anywhere within the National Park (and along the Coleridge Way;) for walkers and bikers – bikes are hitched on the back; call to book a ride at least a day prior to travel (01643 709701, atwest.org.uk).
ACTIVITIES ON EXMOOR
Walking is the activity that draws most people to Exmoor, but there are plenty of other choices. Several operators arrange nature safaris, usually small-group 4WD trips taking in wildlife and local history; try Red Stag Safaris (01643 841831, redstagsafari.co.uk; from £35pp). Exmoor Adventures (01643 863536, exmooradventures.co.uk) runs rock climbing, kayaking and other group activities (from £35/person). See the National Park website (www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk) for other activity operators. While on the moor, bear in mind that over seventy percent of the National Park is privately owned and that access is theoretically restricted to public rights of way; special permission should certainly be sought before camping, canoeing, fishing or similar.
The village of DULVERTON, on Exmoor’s southern edge, is the Park Authority’s headquarters and makes a good entry point. Five miles north, just west of the A396, WINSFORD lays justified claim to being the moor’s prettiest hamlet. A scattering of thatched cottages ranged around a sleepy green, it is watered by a confluence of streams and rivers, giving it no fewer than seven bridges; it’s a good stopover on the way to the famous beauty spot of Tarr Steps, a seventeen-span clapper bridge. Four miles northwest of Winsford, the village of EXFORD, an ancient crossing point on the River Exe, is popular with walkers for the four-mile hike to Dunkery Beacon, Exmoor’s highest point (1704ft).
Information Dulverton and the eastern moor
National Park Visitor Centre 7–9 Fore St, Dulverton (daily: April–Oct 10am–5pm; Nov–March 10.30am–3pm; 01398 323841, www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk).
Royal OakWinsford, TA24 7JE 01643 851455, royaloakexmoor.co.uk. This thatched and rambling old inn dominates the centre of charming Winsford and offers Exmoor ales, snacks and an extensive restaurant menu (mains from £12). The accommodation is plush (most rooms have four-posters) but does vary, so check first. Mon–Sat noon–2pm & 6.30–8.30pm, Sun (daily in winter) noon–2pm & 6.30–8pm.£130
Tongdam26 High St, Dulverton, TA22 7DJ 01398 323397, tongdam.com. Take a break from English country cooking at this quality Thai outpost (most dishes £12.50–16.50). There’s also excellent, tastefully furnished accommodation: two doubles with shared bathroom, and a suite. Mon & Wed–Sun noon–3pm & 6–10.30pm.£56
Woods4 Bank Square, Dulverton, TA22 9BU 01398 324007, woodsdulverton.co.uk. Decorated with a scattering of antlers, boots and riding whips, this gastropub offers Gallic-inspired dishes such as confit duck and foie gras terrine, brill fillet and roast guinea fowl (mains £13.50–18.50). Excellent wine list, too. Mon–Sat noon–2pm & 6–9.30pm, Sun noon–2pm & 7–9.30pm.
YHA ExfordExe Mead, Exford, TA24 7PU 01643 831229, yha.org.uk/hostel/exford. Exmoor’s main hostel occupies a gabled Victorian house on the banks of the Exe. Camping is also possible, and camping pods (£69) and a bell tent (£95) are available June–Oct. The hostel is owned and operated by the White Horse, just across the bridge, where you should go to check in. Camping/person £12, dorms £22, doubles £54
At the heart of the National Park lies Exmoor Forest, the barest (and wettest) part of the moor, scarcely populated except by sheep and a few red deer – the word “forest” denotes simply that it was a king’s hunting reserve. In its centre stands the village of SIMONSBATH (pronounced “Simmonsbath”), once home to the Knight family, who bought the forest in 1819 and, by introducing tenant farmers, building roads and importing sheep, brought systematic agriculture to an area that had never before produced any income.
Accommodation and eating Exmoor Forest and Simonsbath
Simonsbath HouseSimonsbath, TA24 7SH 01643 831259, simonsbathhouse.co.uk. Cosy bolthole offering spacious and swanky rooms with glorious moorland views and a quality restaurant (three-course meals £25). Self-catering cottages in a converted barn are also available (from £210 for 2 nights).Daily 7–9pm. £120
The Somerset port of MINEHEAD quickly became a favourite Victorian getaway with the arrival of the railway, and it has preserved an upbeat holiday-town atmosphere ever since. Steep lanes link the two quarters of Higher Town, on the slopes of North Hill, containing some of the oldest houses, and Quay Town, the harbour area. Minehead is a terminus for the diesel and steam trains of the restored West Somerset Railway (west-somerset-railway.co.uk), which curves eastwards into the Quantocks as far as Bishops Lydeard, and also for the South West Coast Path (see above), signposted by the harbour.
THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
Extending for some 630 miles, the South West Coast Path starts at Minehead and tracks the coastline along the northern seaboard of Somerset and Devon, round Cornwall, back into Devon and on to Dorset, where it finishes close to the entrance to Poole Harbour. Much of the route runs on land owned by the National Trust, and all of it is well signposted.
The relevant Ordnance Survey maps can be found at most village shops en route, while Aurum Press (quartoknows.com) produces four National Trail Guides covering the route and the South West Coast Path Association (01752 896237, southwestcoastpath.org.uk) publishes an annual guide to the whole path, including accommodation lists, ferry timetables, tide times and transport details.
Arrival and Information Minehead
By bus Bus stops are on or around The Avenue, in the centre of town.
Destinations Bishops Lydeard (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr); Dunster (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 10min); Lynmouth (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 55min–1hr 5min); Porlock (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 15–20min); Taunton (Mon–Sat every 30min, Sun hourly; 1hr 20min).
Tourist information The Beach Hotel, The Avenue (Easter–Oct Tues–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–4pm; Nov–Easter Sat & Sun noon–3pm; 01643 702624, visitminehead.org).
Baytree29 Blenheim Rd, TA24 5PZ 01643 703374, baytreebandbminehead.co.uk. Victorian B&B facing the public gardens, offering roomy en-suites, including a family unit (£120). Minimum two-night stay at weekends in July & Aug. No debit/credit cards. No children under 10. £60
Three miles southeast of Minehead, the old village of DUNSTER is the area’s major attraction. Its impressive castle rears above its well-preserved High Street, where the octagonal Yarn Market, dating from 1609, recalls Dunster’s wool-making heyday.
TA24 6SL • Castle Daily: early March to Oct 11am–5pm; mid- to late Dec 2–7pm; Jan to early March & Nov to mid-Dec tours only (call for times) • £11 (includes grounds); NT • Grounds Daily 10am–5pm (or dusk if sooner) • £8; NT • 01643 821314, nationaltrust.org.uk/dunster-castle
A landmark for miles around with its towers and turrets, Dunster Castle has parts dating back to the thirteenth century, but most of its fortifications were demolished following the Civil War. The structure was subjected to a thorough Victorian restoration in 1868–72, though its interior preserves much from its earlier incarnations. Highlights include a bedroom once occupied by Charles II, a fine seventeenth-century carved staircase, a richly decorated banqueting hall, and various portraits of the Luttrells, owners of the house for six hundred years. The grounds feature terraced gardens and riverside walks, all overlooked by a hilltop folly, Conygar Tower, dating from 1775.
Information Dunster
National Park Visitor Centre At the top of Dunster Steep, by the main car park (Easter–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Nov–Easter Sat & Sun 10am–2pm; 01643 821835).
Luttrell Arms36 High St, TA24 6SG 01643 821555, luttrellarms.co.uk. Traditional, atmospheric fifteenth-century inn with open fires and beamed rooms, some with four-posters (the cheaper rooms are smaller and plainer). The bar and more formal restaurant (mains £15–19) offer decent food, and there’s a pleasant garden. Bar daily 11am–11pm; restaurant daily noon–2.30pm & 6–9.30pm.£140
Six miles west of Minehead, cupped on three sides by the hogbacked hills of Exmoor, the thatch-and-cob houses and distinctive charm of PORLOCK draw armies of tourists. Many come for the village’s literary links: according to Coleridge’s less-than-reliable testimony, it was a “man from Porlock” who broke the opium trance in which he was composing Kubla Khan, while the High Street’s fourteenth-century Ship Inn features prominently in the Exmoor romance Lorna Doone and, in real life, sheltered the poet Robert Southey when he got caught in a storm. Just two miles west yet feeling refreshingly remote, the tiny harbour of PORLOCK WEIR is a tranquil spot for a breath of sea air and a drink.
Arrival and information Porlock and around
By bus The main stop is by St Dubricius church, High St.
Destinations Lynmouth (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 50min); Minehead (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 20min).
Tourist information The Old School Centre, West End, High St (Easter–Oct Mon–Fri 10am–12.30pm & 2–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm; Nov–Easter Tues–Fri 10am–12.30pm, Sat 10am–1pm; 01643 863150, porlock.co.uk).
Glen LodgeHawkcombe, TA24 8LN 01643 863371, glenlodge.net. At the top of Parson’s Lane, running south from St Dubricius on the High St, this beautifully furnished Victorian B&B offers perfect seclusion, comfort and character. There are distant sea views from the rooms and access to the moor right behind. No credit cards. £100
Lorna Doone HotelHigh St, TA24 8PS 01643 862404, lornadoonehotel.co.uk. This thoroughly Victorian lodging offers rooms of varying sizes (and prices), all clean, comfortable and en suite. The restaurant delivers well-prepared dishes ranging from pasta to steak and ale pie (mains from £9). Mon–Sat 6–9pm, Sun noon–2.30pm.£65
Millers at the AnchorPorlock Weir, TA24 8PB 01643 862753, millersattheanchor.co.uk. This eccentric, curio-stuffed hotel, pitched as a “hunting lodge by the sea”, enjoys a superb setting on tranquil Porlock Weir’s miniature harbourfront. The rooms – it’s worth paying more for the lovely harbour views – are great. In the equally atmospheric restaurant, sandwiches, pizzas (in summer) and full meals are served at lunchtime, and dinners are available in the evening (mains around £15). Daily noon–3pm & 6.30–9pm.£90
Eleven miles west of Porlock, at the junction and estuary of the East and West Lyn rivers and just inside Devon, LYNMOUTH is where the poet Percy Shelley spent his nine-week honeymoon with his 16-year-old bride Harriet Westbrook, writing his polemical Queen Mab. The village is linked to Lynton, some 500ft above, by an ingenious water-driven cliff railway (mid-Feb to mid-Nov daily, generally 10am–7pm, though closing times vary; £3.80 return; cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk), or walkable along an adjacent zigzagging path. At the top of the village, you can explore the walks and waterfalls and an exhibition on the uses of waterpower in the wooded Glen Lyn Gorge (Easter–Oct most days 10am–6pm; call for winter opening; £6; 01598 753207, www.theglenlyngorge.co.uk), all the more poignant given that the village was almost washed away by flooding in August 1952, when 34 people lost their lives. The owners of the Gorge also run boat trips (April–Sept; £10; 01598 753207) from the harbour to Lee Bay and back – a great opportunity to view the cliffs and the birdlife that thrives on them.
A beautiful mile-and-a-half walk follows the river east from Lynmouth to where the East Lyn River joins Hoar Oak Water at the aptly named Watersmeet, one of Exmoor’s most celebrated beauty spots, overlooked by two slender bridges.
Arrival and Information Lynmouth and around
By bus The stop is in Lyndale coach park, next to the Gorge.
Destinations Lynton (Mon–Sat 4–5 daily, Sun July & Aug 1 daily; 8min); Minehead (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 55min–1hr 5min); Porlock (mid-July to early Sept Mon–Fri & Sun 2 daily; 35–50min).
National Park Visitor Centre Lynmouth Pavilion, The Esplanade (daily 10am–5pm; 01598 752509).
Rising SunHarbourside, EX35 6EG 01598 753223, risingsunlynmouth.co.uk. The stylish rooms in this fourteenth-century harbourfront inn all have the requisite beams and sloping floors. The pub and restaurant are equally atmospheric, and attract crowds with their classic English dishes of steak and lamb, plus plenty of seafood (from £14) – there are few vegetarian options. Bar Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 11am–10.30pm; kitchen daily noon–2.30pm & 6–9pm in bar, 6.30–8.30pm in restaurant.£160
The Victorian resort of LYNTON perches above a lofty gorge with splendid views over the sea. Almost completely cut off from the rest of the country for most of its history, the village struck lucky during the Napoleonic Wars, when frustrated Grand Tourists – unable to visit their usual continental haunts – discovered in Lynton a domestic piece of alpine landscape, nicknaming the area “Little Switzerland”. Samuel Taylor Coleridge and William Hazlitt trudged over to Lynton from the Quantocks, but the greatest spur to the village’s popularity came with the publication in 1869 of R.D. Blackmore’s Exmoor melodrama Lorna Doone, based on the outlaw clans who inhabited these parts in the seventeenth century.
Arrival and Information Lynton
By bus Buses stop in Castle Hill car park and on Lee Rd.
Destinations Barnstaple (Mon–Sat hourly; 50min–1hr 10min); Ilfracombe (early July to Aug Mon–Fri 2 daily, Sun 1 daily; 55min); Lynmouth (Mon–Sat 5–6 daily, Sun July & Aug 1 daily; 6min).
Tourist information Town Hall, Lee Rd (Tues–Thurs & Sat 10am–3pm; 01598 752225, lynton-lynmouth-tourism.co.uk).
North Walk HouseNorth Walk, EX35 6HJ 01598 753372, northwalkhouse.co.uk. Top-quality B&B in a superb position overlooking the sea, and convenient for the coast path. The spacious, stylish rooms have wooden floors bedecked in rugs, and two have wrought-iron beds. Breakfasts are filling and delicious, and three-course organic dinners are available to guests for £30/person. Self-catering accommodation (from £203 for 3 nights) also available. £136
Sunny Lyn Lynbridge, EX35 6NS 01598 753384, sunnylyn.co.uk. You can camp next to the West Lyn River at this tranquil spot within a 20min walk from Lynton, with an on-site shop and café (limited opening in low season), and static caravans and lodges available for rent (minimum two-night stay, or four night in peak season). It’s small, so booking is essential. Camping and caravans closed Nov to mid-March. Camping/person £6.75, lodges and caravans £75
Vanilla Pod10–12 Queens St, EX35 6AA 01598 753706. Good, wholesome meals are served at this friendly place, which is both café-bar and restaurant, with Mediterranean and Middle Eastern leanings. Most mains, such as pork belly and grilled sea bass, cost £12–16. Daily 10am–4pm & 6pm–late; summer school hols daily 10am–late; reduced opening in winter.
