Helena Smith/Rough Guides
CULROSS PALACE, FIFE
Central Scotland, the strip of mainland north of the densely populated Glasgow–Edinburgh axis and south of the main swathe of Highlands, has been the main stage for some of the most important events in Scottish history. Stirling, its imposing castle high above the town, was historically the most important bridging point across the River Forth. From the castle battlements you can see the peaks of the forested Trossachs region, with its archetypal, wild and wonderful Scottish scenery. Popular for walking and, in particular, cycling, much of the Trossachs, together with the attractive islands and “bonnie, bonnie banks” of Loch Lomond, form the core of Scotland’s first national park.
To the east, between the firths of Forth and Tay, lies the county of Fife, a Pictish kingdom that boasts a fascinating coastline sprinkled with historic fishing villages and sandy beaches, as well as the university town of St Andrews, famous worldwide for its venerable golf courses. A little to the north, the ancient town of Perth has as much claim as anywhere to be the gateway to the Highlands. Spectacular Highland Perthshire begins north and west of the city – an area of glorious wooded mountainsides and inviting walks, particularly around Rannoch Moor.
Getting around Central Scotland
While Stirling, Falkirk and Perth are well served by trains from all over Scotland, the rest of the region is only accessible on sporadic local bus services so you may find it easier to have your own transport. In rural areas, Stirling Council provides a DRT (Demand Responsive Transport) service, which connects places like Balquhidder, Callander, Killin and the Trossachs where there are few or no conventional bus services. Trip requests must be booked 24hr in advance, with fares costing no more than a regular bus ticket (
01786 404040, 
stirling.gov.uk). Many people opt to explore the Trossachs by mountain bike.
Straddling the River Forth a few miles upstream from the estuary at Kincardine, STIRLING looks, at first glance, like a smaller version of Edinburgh. With its crag-top castle, steep, cobbled streets and mixed community of locals, students and tourists, it’s an appealing if parochial place.
Stirling was the scene of some of the most significant developments in the evolution of the Scottish nation. It was here the Scots under William Wallace defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297, only to fight – and win again – under Robert the Bruce just a couple of miles away at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. The town enjoyed its golden age in the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries, most notably when its castle was the favoured residence of the Stuart monarchy and the setting for the coronation in 1543 of the young Mary, future Queen of Scots. By the early eighteenth century the town was again besieged, its location being of strategic importance during the Jacobite rebellions of 1715 and 1745. Today Stirling is known for its castle and the lofty Wallace Monument, a mammoth Victorian homage to a hero high on Abbey Craig.
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FALKIRK WHEEL
Stirling Castle Impregnable, impressive and resonant with history. If you see only one castle in Scotland, make it this.
Falkirk Wheel The most remarkable piece of modern engineering in Britain, this fascinating contraption lifts boats 100ft between two canals.
The Trossachs Pocket Highlands with shining lochs, wooded glens and noble peaks. Great for hiking and mountain biking.
Himalayas putting course, St Andrews The world’s finest putting course, right beside the world’s finest golf course; a snip at £3 a round.
The gin and whisky revival Fife is the original home of Scotch and a number of new outfits are leading a revival.
The East Neuk Buy trap-to-table lobster from the wooden shack at Crail’s historic stone harbour or dine in style at The Cellar restaurant in the fishing town of Anstruther.
Forth bridges The Forth Rail bridge is an icon of Victorian engineering, while its shiny new partner – the Queensferry Crossing – is a world-beating record breaker.
Rannoch Moor One of the most inaccessible places in Scotland, where hikers can discover a true sense of isolation.
HIGHLIGHTS ARE MARKED ON THE MAP
Nearby, the region’s historic heritage is reflected in the cathedral at Dunblane and the imposing castle at Doune (an icon to Monty Python fans), while the Falkirk Wheel is an undisputed marvel of modern engineering.
Upper Castle Wynd, FK8 1EJ • Daily: April–Sept 9.30am–6pm; Oct–March 9.30am–5pm • £15; HS • Guided tours Same days, every 30min; 45min; last tour 3pm • Free with entry fee; HS • 01786 450000, stirlingcastle.gov.uk
Stirling Castle must have presented would-be invaders with a formidable challenge. Its impregnability is most daunting when you approach the town from the west, from where the vision of the sheer 250ft drop down the crag is spine-tingling. The rock was first fortified during the Iron Age, though what you see today dates largely from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Built on many levels, the main buildings are interspersed with delightful gardens and patches of lawn, while endless battlements, cannon ports, hidden staircases and other nooks and crannies make it thoroughly absorbing. Free guided tours start at the well in the Lower Square.
Central to the castle is the magnificently restored Great Hall, which dates from 1501–03 and was used as a barracks by the British army until 1964. The building stands out across Stirling for its controversial bright yellow cladding, added after the discovery during renovations of a stretch of the original sixteenth-century limewash. Inside, the hall has been restored to its original state as the finest medieval secular building in Scotland, complete with five gaping fireplaces and an impressive hammer-beam ceiling of rough-hewn wood. A major restoration of the Palace, with specially commissioned tapestries and furniture, returned the rooms to something like their appearance in the mid-sixteenth century.
On the sloping upper courtyard of the castle, the Chapel Royal was built in 1594 by James VI for the baptism of his son. The interior is charming, with a seventeenth-century fresco of elaborate scrolls and patterns. Go through a narrow passageway beyond the Chapel Royal to get to the Douglas Gardens, reputedly the place where the eighth Earl of Douglas, suspected of treachery, was thrown to his death by James II in 1452. It’s a lovely, quiet corner of the castle, with mature trees and battlements over which there are splendid views of the rising Highlands beyond, as well as a bird’s-eye view down to the King’s Knot, a series of grassed octagonal mounds that were planted with box trees and ornamental hedges in the seventeenth century.
Stirling evolved from the top down, starting with its castle and gradually spreading south and east onto the low-lying flood plain. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, as the threat of attack decreased, the centre of commercial life crept towards the River Forth, with the modern town growing on the edge of the plain over which the castle had stood guard.
Leaving the castle, head downhill into Stirling’s old town, fortified behind the massive, whinstone boulders of the town walls, built in the mid-sixteenth century and intended to ward off the advances of Henry VIII, who had set his sights on the young Mary, Queen of Scots, as a wife for his son, Edward. The walls now constitute some of the best-preserved town defences in Scotland, and can be traced by following the path known as Back Walk, which leads right under the castle, taut along the edge of the crag. Though a little overgrown in places, the path does afford panoramic views.
1.5 miles north of the old town, Abbey Craig, FK9 5LF • Daily: March 10am–5pm; April–June 9.30am–5pm; July & Aug 9.30am–6pm; Sept & Oct 9.30am–5pm; Nov–Feb 10.30am–4pm • £10.50 • 01786 472140, nationalwallacemonument.com • First Bus #62A & #63A from the town centre
The prominent National Wallace Monument is a 220ft tower built in the 1860s as a tribute to Sir William Wallace, the freedom fighter who led Scottish resistance against Edward I, the “Hammer of the Scots”, in the late thirteenth century. The crag on which the monument is set was the scene of his greatest victory, when he sent his troops charging down the hillside onto the plain to defeat the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297. Exhibits inside the tower include Wallace’s long steel sword and a life-sized “talking” model of the Scottish hero, who tells visitors about his battle preparations. The climb to the top – up 246 spiral steps – rewards you with superb views across to Fife and Ben Lomond.
Two miles south of Stirling centre, on the A872, FK7 0LJ • Daily: March–Oct 10am–5.30pm; Nov–Feb 10am–5pm • £11.50; NTS • 01786 812664 • battleofbannockburn.com • Buses #2A, #39, #54A, #54 from Stirling bus station or Murray Place
All but surrounded by drab social housing, the Battle of Bannockburn Visitor Centre commemorates the most famous battle in Scottish history, when King Robert the Bruce won his mighty victory over the English on June 24, 1314. It was this battle, the climax of the Wars of Independence, which united the Scots under Bruce and led to independence from England; Bruce employed brilliantly innovative tactics in mustering his army to defeat a much larger English force.
The actual site of the main battle is still a matter of debate: most agree that it didn’t take place near the present visitor centre, but on a boggy plain a mile or so to the west. The centre itself, rebooted for the seven hundredth anniversary of the battle in 2014, is largely devoid of the kind of artefacts that bring Culloden so movingly to life, and the centre relies on interactive displays and a 3D military video game. That said, it’s popular, so be sure to book ahead.
The Cross, Dunblane, 5 miles north of Stirling, FK15 0AQ • April–Sept Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 2–5pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 2–4pm • Free; HS • 01786 825388, dunblanecathedral.org.uk • Regular trains connect Dunblane with Stirling and points north
The attractive small town of DUNBLANE has been an important ecclesiastical centre since the seventh century, when the Celts founded the Church of St Blane here. Dunblane Cathedral dates mainly from the thirteenth century, and restoration work carried out a century ago has returned it to its Gothic splendour. Inside, note the delicate blue-purple stained glass, and the exquisitely carved pews, screen and choir stalls, all crafted in the early twentieth century.
Eight miles west of Stirling, FK16 6EA • Daily: April–Sept 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct–March 10am–4pm • £6; HS • 01786 841742, historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/doune-castle • From Stirling bus station, take bus #1 to Callander to Doune’s main street
Standing on a small hill in a bend of the River Teith in the parish of DOUNE, the stern-looking, fourteenth-century Doune Castle is a marvellous semi-ruin. Perhaps its greatest claim to fame is as the setting for the 1970s cult movie Monty Python and the Holy Grail; the shop by the gatehouse keeps a scrapbook of stills from the film, as well as a selection of souvenirs including bottles of Holy Grail Ale. Today another fifteen minutes of fame beckons, as hit series Game of Thrones and Outlander have also been filmed here.
Lime Rd, 2 miles west of Falkirk, which is 10 miles southeast of Stirling on the M9 to Edinburgh, FK1 4RS • Visitor Centre Daily 10am–5.30pm • Free • Boat tours Every 30min: April–Oct daily 9.30am–4.30pm; Nov–March Wed–Sun 11am–4pm • 50min • £12.95 • 0870 0500208, thefalkirkwheel.co.uk • There are buses from Stirling (every 30min; 15min), and trains to Falkirk from Edinburgh (every 15–30min; 30min), Glasgow Queen St (every 15–30min; 25min) and Stirling (every 30min; 15min) – taxis can take you the 2.5 mile journey from the train station to the wheel
The town of FALKIRK has a good deal of visible history, going right back to the remains of the Roman Antonine Wall. A massive transformation came in the eighteenth century with the construction of canals connecting Glasgow and Edinburgh; within a few years, however, the trains arrived, and the canals gradually fell into disuse. While Falkirk’s canals were a very visible sign of the area’s industrial heritage, it was only recently that their leisure potential was realized, thanks to British Waterway’s £84.5 million Millennium Link project to restore them and re-establish a navigable link between east and west coasts.
The icon of this project is the remarkable Falkirk Wheel. The giant grey wheel, the world’s first and only rotating boat-lift, scoops boats in two giant buckets, or caissons, and moves them the 100ft between the levels of the Forth & Clyde and Union canals linked to Glasgow and Edinburgh respectively. Beneath the wheel, the visitor centre sells tickets for the boat trip from the lower basin into the wheel, along the Union Canal, and back again.
ARRIVAL AND information stirling and around
By train The train station is in the centre of town on Goosecroft Rd.
Destinations Aberdeen (hourly; 2hr 5min); Dundee (hourly; 55min); Edinburgh (every 30min; 1hr); Falkirk (every 30min; 15min); Glasgow Queen St (every 20min; 30min); Inverness (3–5 daily; 2hr 55min); Perth (hourly; 30min).
By bus The bus station, on Goosecroft Rd, can be accessed from the Thistles Shopping Centre.
Destinations Aberfoyle (4 daily; 45min); Bridge of Allan (hourly–every 2hr; 15min); Callander (40min–1hr; 45min); Dollar (every 2hr; 35min); Doune (40min–1hr; 25min); Dunblane (hourly; 20min); Dundee (hourly; 1hr 30min); Edinburgh (hourly; 1hr); Falkirk (hourly; 30min); Glasgow (hourly; 50min); Inverness (every 2hr; 3hr 20min); Perth (hourly; 40min); St Andrews (every 2hr; 1hr 55min).
Tourist office The Old Town Jail, St John St (daily 10am–5pm; 01786 475019, destinationstirling.com).
Castlecroft B&B Ballengeich Rd, FK8 1TN 01786 474933, castlecroft-uk.com; map. Modern guesthouse with six en-suite rooms on the site of the King’s Stables just beneath the castle rock, with terrific views north and west and a very friendly welcome. £70
Hotel Colessio 33 Spittal St, FK8 1DX 01786 448880, hotelcolessio.com; map. Bling, with a cheeky self-knowing wink, this born-again Victorian building is the closest Stirling gets to five-star luxury. Its forty rooms are unashamedly glam (sleek monochrome interiors, widescreen TVs, marble bathrooms), but the wow factor really comes with the Scotch beef and cracked lobster at the Grill Room restaurant (mains from £14). £90
Cromlix Kinbuck, 11 miles north of Stirling, FK15 9JT 01786 822125, cromlix.com; map. It’s rare for a tennis superstar to own a luxury country-house hotel, but then Sir Andy Murray’s not your average sports personality. This venture, close to his hometown of Dunblane, is set in 34 acres of beautiful woodland and comes with traditional Victorian paintings and furnishings, a restaurant (courtesy of London-based Michelin gourmand Michel Roux) and – surprise, surprise – perfectly trimmed tennis courts. £220
No. 10 10 Gladstone Place, FK8 2NN 01786 472681, cameron-10.co.uk; map. Modernized Victorian home with neat, uncluttered decor providing friendly and pleasant B&B accommodation. It’s close to the city centre, but on a quiet and elegant King’s Park street. £60
Stirling Highland Hotel Spittal St, FK8 1DU 01786 272727, thecairncollection.co.uk; map. Built in 1854 as the city’s original grammar school, this Victorian Gothic hotel is a charmer on all fronts, with a health club, pool, an on-site whisky shop and a working observatory on the top floor. Make sure to visit the bar in the old French classroom. £100
SYHA Stirling Hostel St John St, FK8 1EA 01786 473442, syha.org.uk/where-to-stay/lowlands/stirling; map. Located at the top of the town (a strenuous trek with a backpack) in a converted church with an impressive 1824 Palladian facade. All rooms have en-suite showers and toilets, and facilities include a games room. Dorms £15, doubles £35
Brea 5 Baker St, FK8 1BJ 01786 446277, brea-stirling.co.uk; map. A great little bistro with exposed brick walls and pop-art interiors that delves deep into Scotland’s larder with west coast seafood, steak burgers and fresh-from-the-farm salads. Also specializes in craft beers and gins of the month (mains from £13.95). Mon–Thurs & Sun noon–9pm, Fri & Sat noon–10pm.
Darnley Coffee House 18 Bow St, FK8 1BS 01786 474468; map. Named after Mary Queen of Scots’ lover, this vaulted café is a tartan throwback with plenty of Old Town atmosphere and bargain lunches, soups, teas, home-made cakes and fruit cordials (lunch from £6). Daily 11am–4pm.
Hermann’s 58 Broad St, FK8 1EF 01786 450632, hermanns.co.uk; map. Stirling’s classiest eating option, set in the historic Mar Place House towards the top of the Old Town. Run by affable Tirolean expat Hermann AschaberIt, it offers an upmarket Austrian-Scottish hybrid with dishes such as Jagerschnitzel (veal) or smoked Scottish duck with Speck (bacon). Mains from £11.50. Daily noon–2pm & 6–9pm.
Loving Food Truck King’s Park Pavilion 07788 567113, loving-food.com; map. When it’s open for business, this vintage green-and-white Citroen van is easy to spot around town. It’s run by a DIY food crew who love nothing better than creative street food combos, which includes everything from meatloaf flatbreads to veggie haggis tacos (from £6). They’re looking around for a permanent HQ. Mon–Fri only.
The Settle Inn 91 St Mary’s Wynd, FK8 1BU 01786 474609, twitter.com/settleinn; map. An old-school, no-frills boozer that’s big on local ales, folk music nights and history. It’s Stirling’s oldest pub, in business since 1736, and was once commandeered by Bonnie Prince Charlie during a brief occupation of the town. Daily noon–11pm.
Tolbooth Jail Wynd, FK8 1DE 01786 274000, culturestirling.org/tollbooth; map. Built on the site of Stirling’s medieval prison, the Tolbooth is by far the best option for a night out, with a high-ceilinged bar and eclectic live music programme. Look out for their boisterous ceilidhs in July & Aug. Open daily.
The largest stretch of fresh water in Britain (23 miles long and up to five miles wide), Loch Lomond is thought of as the epitome of Scottish scenic splendour, thanks in large part to the ballad that fondly recalls its “bonnie, bonnie banks”. In reality, however, the peerless scenery of the loch can be tainted by the sheer numbers of day-trippers.
Designated Scotland’s first national park in 2002, the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (lochlomond-trossachs.org) covers a large stretch of scenic territory from the lochs of the Clyde estuary to Loch Tay in Perthshire, with the centrepiece being Loch Lomond. The most popular gateway into the park is the town of Balloch, nineteen miles from Glasgow city centre. Both Balloch and the western side of the loch around Luss are often packed with tour coaches, though the loch’s eastern side, abutting the Trossachs, is very different in tone, with wooden ferryboats puttering out to a scattering of tree-covered islands off the village of Balmaha.
Little more than a suburb of the much larger factory-town of Alexandria to the south, BALLOCH, on the southwestern corner of Loch Lomond, has few redeeming features. However, its road and train links with Glasgow ensure that it remains the focal point of the national park.
ARRIVAL AND departure balloch
By train Balloch has good train connections with Glasgow (every 30min; 45min).
By bus Buses connect with Balmaha (every 2hr; 30min) and Luss (hourly; 20min).
Cameron House 2 miles north of Balloch, G83 8QZ 01389 310777, cameronhouse.co.uk. The ultimate in lochside luxury, this romantic country house and spa hosted A-list movie stars, heads of state and royal dignitaries and was home to Michelin-starred Restaurant Martin Wishart. At the time of writing, the hotel had suffered a devastating fire and was closed until further notice; check the website for the latest news. £197
National Park Gateway Centre Ben Lomond Way, G83 8QL • Daily 10am–6pm • Free • 01389 751031 • lochlomondshores.com • Drumkinnon Tower Daily 10am–5pm • £13.95 • 01389 721500, visitsealife.com/loch-lomond
Signposted from miles around, Loch Lomond Shores contains the National Park Gateway Centre, which has background and tourist information outlining all waterbuses, loch cruises and transport links within the park, as well as a number of shops, including an outpost of Edinburgh department store Jenners and the Edinburgh Woollen Mill. Alongside, Drumkinnon Tower is a striking cylindrical building housing an aquarium.
The islands of Loch Lomond
Many of Loch Lomond’s 22 islands and 27 islets are privately owned, and, rather quaintly, an old wooden mail-boat still delivers post to four of them. It’s possible to join the mail-boat cruise, which is run by Macfarlane & Son from the jetty at Balmaha (May–Oct Mon, Thurs & Sat 11.30am, returns 2pm; July & Aug daily 11.30am, returns 2pm; £10; 01360 870214, balmahaboatyard.co.uk). There’s time for a stop on Inchmurrin Island, the largest and most southerly of the islands, with a permanent population of just ten people. If you’re looking for an island to explore, however, a better bet is Inchailloch, the closest to Balmaha. Owned by Scottish Natural Heritage (snh.gov.uk) it has a two-mile, signposted nature trail. You can row here yourself using a boat hired from Macfarlane & Son (from £10/hr or £40/day), or use their on-demand ferry service (£5 return).
The West Highland Way
Opened in 1980, the spectacular West Highland Way was Scotland’s first long-distance footpath, stretching 96 miles from Milngavie (pronounced “mill-guy”) six miles north of central Glasgow to Fort William, where it reaches the foot of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain. Today, it is by far the most popular such footpath in Scotland, and while for many the range of scenery, relative ease of walking and nearby facilities make it a classic route, others find it a little too busy in high season.
The route runs along the eastern shores of Loch Lomond, over the Highland Boundary Fault Line, then round Crianlarich, crossing the open heather wilderness of Rannoch Moor. It passes close to Glen Coe, notorious for the massacre of the MacDonald clan, before reaching Fort William. Apart from one stretch halfway along when the path is within earshot of the main road, this is wild, remote country, and you should be well prepared for sudden and extreme weather changes.
While this is emphatically not the most strenuous of Britain’s long-distance walks, a moderate degree of fitness is required as there are some steep ascents. You might choose to walk individual sections of the Way (the eight-mile climb from Glen Coe up the Devil’s Staircase is particularly spectacular), but to tackle the whole thing you need to set aside at least seven days; avoid a Saturday start from Milngavie and you’ll be less likely to be walking with hordes of people. Most walkers tackle the route from south to north, and manage between ten and fourteen miles a day, staying at hotels, B&Bs and bunkhouses en route. Camping is permitted at recognized sites.
For further details on the Way, including a comprehensive accommodation list and various tour options, see west-highland-way.co.uk.
The tranquil eastern shore of Loch Lomond is far better for walking and appreciating the loch’s natural beauty than the overcrowded western side. The dead-end B837 road from Drymen will take you halfway up the east bank, as far as you can get by car or bus, while the West Highland Way sticks close to the shores for the entire length of the loch, beginning at the tiny lochside settlement of BALMAHA, which stands on the Highland Boundary Fault, the geological fault that separates the Highlands from the Lowlands.
ARRIVAL AND information balmaha
By bus The #309 bus from Balloch and Drymen runs to Balmaha every 2hr.
National Park Centre Next to the large car park, with great information on forest walks (daily 9.30am–4pm; 01360 722100, lochlomond-trossachs.org).
Cashel Rowardennan, 2 miles north of Balmaha, G63 0AW 01360 870234, campingintheforest.co.uk. A lovely, secluded campsite on the loch shore, with a decent loo block. Campers can launch craft from here onto the loch, while the West Highland Way passes right past its door. Closed Nov–Feb. £18.25
Oak Tree Inn Balmaha, G63 0JQ 01360 870357, theoaktreeinn.co.uk. This corker of an inn is set back from the boatyard, and offers en-suite doubles and bunk-bed quads. There’s also a convivial pub with an all-day food menu. Daily noon–9pm. £100
Often described as the Highlands in miniature, the Trossachs area has a magnificent diversity of scenery, with dramatic peaks and mysterious, forest-covered slopes that live up to all the images of Scotland’s wild land. It is country ripe with stirring tales of brave kilted clansmen, a role fulfilled by Rob Roy Macgregor, the seventeenth-century outlaw whose name seems to attach to every second waterfall, cave and barely discernible path. The Trossachs’ high tourist profile was largely attributable in the early days to the novels of Sir Walter Scott, several of which are set in the area. Since then, neither the popularity nor beauty of the region have waned, and in high season the place is jam-packed with tourist coaches, as well as walkers and mountain bikers enjoying the easily accessible scenery. Add to this the 2017 bicentenary of the publication of Scott’s historical novel Rob Roy and the park is now busier than ever. Autumn is the best time to come, when the hills are blanketed in rich, rusty colours and the crowds thin out.
CENTRAL SCOTLAND: Top 5 places to walk
Each summer the little holiday town of ABERFOYLE, twenty miles west of Stirling, dusts itself down for its annual influx of tourists. Though of little appeal itself, Aberfoyle’s position in the heart of the Trossachs is ideal. From here, the A821 road to Loch Katrine winds its way into the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, snaking up the roller coaster Duke’s Pass (so called because it once belonged to the Duke of Montrose). For a mini Scottish road-trip, it’s unrivalled.
About 4 miles east of Aberfoyle towards Doune, FK8 3RA • To rent fishing gear contact Lake of Mentieth Fisheries 01877 385664, mentieth-fisheries.co.uk
The Lake of Menteith is a superb fly-fishing centre and Scotland’s only lake (as opposed to loch), so named due to a historic mix-up with the word laigh, Scots for “low-lying ground”. From the northern shore, you can take a little ferry out to Inchmahome in order to explore the island’s lovely ruined Augustinian priory.
Daily: April–Sept 10am–4.15pm; Oct 10am–3.15pm • £7.50, including ferry; HS • 01877 385294, historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/inchmahome-priory
Founded in 1238, Inchmahome Priory is the most beautiful island monastery in Scotland, its remains rising tall and graceful above the trees. A refuge for the young Mary Queen of Scots in late 1547, the priory is thought to have been built by the same masons responsible for Dunblane Cathedral.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION aberfoyle
By bus Buses connect with Callander (#504; 25min) and Port of Menteith (#C11 towards Stirling, or #504 towards Callander; 10min).
Tourist information The excellent Queen Elizabeth Forest Park Visitor Centre at the David Marshall Lodge is a mile north of Aberfoyle on the A821. Helpful guides dispense maps of the walks and cycle routes in the forest, and there is a nice café with splendid views over the treetops (daily: Jan & Feb 10am–3pm; March, April & Oct–Dec 10am–4pm; May, June & Sept 10am–5pm; July & Aug 10am–6pm; 0300 067 6615, scotland.forestry.gov.uk/forest-parks/queen-elizabeth-forest-park/the-lodge-forest-visitor-centre).
Lake of Menteith Hotel Port of Menteith, FK8 3RA 01877 385258, lake-hotel.com. A beautiful place to stay, with spacious, glamorous rooms: the hotel enjoys a lovely waterfront setting next to Port of Menteith’s Victorian Gothic parish church, and also has a classy restaurant. Ask – of course – for a room with a lake view. Daily noon–2.30pm & 5.30–9pm. £138
Heading down the northern side of the Duke’s Pass you first come to Loch Achray, tucked under Ben A’an. At the head of the loch, a road leads the short distance to the southern end of Loch Katrine at the foot of Ben Venue (2392ft).
Trossachs Pier, FK17 8HZ • March–Nov daily • £16.50 return; shorter 1hr cruises with no stops £13.50 • 01877 376315, lochkatrine.com
An elegant Victorian passenger steamer, the SS Sir Walter Scott, has been plying the waters of Loch Katrine since 1900, chugging up to the wild country of Glengyle. It offers various cruises each day, but only the first run in summer (June–Oct 10.30am) stops at Stronachlachar. Afternoon trips on the fleet’s more modern cruiser Lady of the Lake follow the same route, departing at 1.30pm and 4.15pm (subject to numbers and weather). A popular combination is to rent a bike from the Katrinewheelz hut by the pier (01877 376366, katrinewheelz.co.uk; £20/day), take the steamer up to Stronachlachar, then cycle back along the north side of the loch.
EATING loch katrine
Venacher Lochside 5 miles west of Callander, FK17 8HP 01877 330011, venacher-lochside.com. Once an unloved café, this sensational boathouse restaurant on the north shore of Loch Venacher has been reborn following a change in ownership. The menu proposes a Scottish greatest hits (Perthshire short rib, Shetland mussels, Venacher-caught trout; mains from £13), but it’s equally worth a stop for coffee or for a look at their local arts and crafts (available to buy). Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–4pm, Fri & Sat 10am–4pm & 5–7pm.
CALLANDER, on the eastern edge of the Trossachs, sits on the banks of the River Teith at the southern end of the Pass of Leny, one of the key routes into the Highlands. Significantly larger than Aberfoyle, eleven miles west, it is a popular summer holiday base and suffers in high season for being on the main tourist trail from Stirling through to the west Highlands.
ARRIVAL AND getting around Callander
By bus The local bus service has been replaced by a Demand Responsive Transport (DRT; 01786 404040 stirling.gov.uk) system. Trip requests must be booked 24hr in advance; fares cost no more than a regular bus ticket.
Bike rental Handily located in the centre of Callander, Wheelology, 4 Ancaster Square (01877 331052, cyclehirecallander.co.uk), offers bike rental, sales, repairs and accessories. However, Wheels Cycling Centre, 1.5 miles southwest of Callander, is the best bike rental place in the area, with front- or full-suspension models, as well as baby seats and children’s cycles (01877 331100, scottish-cycling.com).
Hiking and biking in the Trossachs
The Trossachs is ideal for exploring on foot or on a mountain bike. This is partly because the terrain is slightly more benign than the Highlands proper, but much is due to the excellent management of the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, a huge chunk of the national park between Loch Lomond and Loch Lubnaig. The main visitor centre for the area, David Marshall Lodge, is just outside Aberfoyle.
For hill-walkers, the prize peak is Ben Lomond (3196ft), best accessed from Rowardennan on Loch Lomond’s east shore. Other highlights include Ben Venue (2392ft) and Ben A’an (1491ft) on the shores of Loch Katrine, as well as Ben Ledi (2884ft), just northwest of Callander, which all offer relatively straightforward but rewarding climbs and, on clear days, stunning views. Walkers can also choose from any number of waymarked routes through the forests and along lochsides; pick up a map at the visitor centre.
The area is also popular with mountain bikers, with a number of useful rental shops (see above), a network of forest paths and one of the more impressive stretches of the National Cycle Network cutting through the region from Loch Lomond to Killin.
Monachyle Mhor Hotel Balquidder, 17 miles north of Callander, FK19 8PQ 01877 384622, monachylemhor.net. Run by Welsh brothers Tom and Dick Lewis, both champions of the local food scene, this refined eighteenth-century farmhouse turned lochside boutique hotel is part of the Mhor mini hotel and restaurant empire – and deserves all its plaudits. Choose from luxurious courtyard or stylish farmhouse rooms, a kitsch backwoods cabin (£140) or a wacky glamping wagon with wood-burning stove (£125). The family-style motel Mhor84 is nearby. £195
Roman Camp Country House Hotel 182 Main St, FK17 8BG 01877 330003, romancamphotel.co.uk. The town’s most upmarket option is this romantic, turreted seventeenth-century hunting lodge, built for the Dukes of Perth, in twenty-acre gardens on the River Teith. The cosy Whyte Bar has a sleek grand piano and offers more than forty single malts. £160
Lade Inn Kilmahog, 1 mile west of Callander, FK17 8HN 01877 330152, theladeinn.com. Top-notch Scottish gastropub food is the draw at this hospitable inn where the owners are particularly keen on real ales; an on-site shop sells bottled beers from all over Scotland, including their very own refreshing amber ale Ladeback. Mains from £9.75. Restaurant: Mon–Sat noon–9pm, Sun 12.30–9pm. Bar: Mon–Thurs noon–11pm, Fri & Sat noon–1am, Sun 12.30–10.30pm.
Mhor Fish 75–77 Main St, FK17 8DX 01877 330213, mhorfish.net. Brothers Tom and Dick Lewis (see above) are at it again with their new breed of fish and chip shop – a sustainable fish policy, daily specials and everything from takeaway suppers (from £5.50) to bistro-style seafood dishes (mains around £10). Daily noon–9pm.
The ancient Kingdom of Fife is a small area, barely fifty miles at its widest point, but one that has a definite identity, inextricably linked with the waters that surround it on three sides – the Tay to the north, the Forth to the south and the cold North Sea to the east. Despite its size, Fife encompasses several different regions, with a marked difference between the rural north and the semi-industrial south. Fishing still has a role to play, but ultimately most visitors are drawn to St Andrews, the home of the world-famous Royal and Ancient Golf Club. South of St Andrews, the tiny stone harbours, pubs and restaurants of the East Neuk fishing villages are an appealing extension to any visit to this part of Fife.
Inland from St Andrews is the absorbing village of Falkland with its impressive ruined palace. To the south, the perfectly preserved town of Culross is the most obvious draw with its cobbled streets and historic buildings.
Confident, poised and well groomed, if a little snooty, ST ANDREWS, Scotland’s oldest university town and a pilgrimage centre for golfers from all over the world, is situated on a wide bay on the northeastern coast. Of all Scotland’s universities, St Andrews is the most often compared to Oxford or Cambridge, both for the dominance of gown over town, and for the intimate, collegiate feel of the place. In fact, the university attracts a significant proportion of English undergraduates, among them Prince William, who spent four years studying here, where he met fellow student and future wife Kate Middleton.
According to legend, the town was founded, pretty much by accident, in the fourth century. St Rule – or Regulus – a custodian of the bones of St Andrew in Patras in southern Greece, had a vision in which an angel ordered him to carry five of the saint’s bones to the western edge of the world, where he was to build a city in his honour. The conscientious courier set off, but was shipwrecked on the rocks close to the present harbour. Struggling ashore with his precious burden, he built a shrine to the saint on what subsequently became the site of the cathedral; St Andrew became Scotland’s patron saint and the town its ecclesiastical capital.
Three main thoroughfares, North Street, Market Street and South Street – which run west to east towards the ruined Gothic cathedral – feature several of the original university buildings from the fifteenth century. Narrow alleys connect the cobbled streets, attic windows and gable ends shape the rooftops, and here and there you’ll see the old wooden doors with heavy knockers and black iron hinges.
The Pends, KY16 9QL • Visitor centre Daily: April–Sept 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct–March 10am–4pm • £5, with castle £9; HS • Grounds Daily 9am–5.30pm • Free • 01334 472563, historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/st-andrews-cathedral
The ruin of the great St Andrews Cathedral, at the east end of town, gives only an idea of the importance of what was once Scotland’s largest cathedral. Founded in 1160, the cathedral was plundered and left to ruin during the Reformation by supporters of John Knox, fresh from a rousing meeting.
In front of the cathedral window a slab is all that remains of the high altar, where the relics of St Andrew were once enshrined. Previously, it is believed they were kept in St Rule’s Tower, the austere Romanesque monolith next to the cathedral, which was built as part of an abbey in 1130. From the top of the tower (a climb of 157 steps) there’s a good view of the town, and of the remains of the monastic buildings that made up the priory.
The Scores, KY16 9AR • Daily: April–Sept 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct–March 10am–4pm • £6, with cathedral £9; HS • 01334 477196, historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/st-andrews-castle
Not far north of the cathedral, the rocky coastline curves inland to St Andrews Castle, with a drop to the sea on two sides and a moat on its inland side. Founded around 1200 and extended over the centuries, it was built as part of the Palace of the Bishops and Archbishops of St Andrews. There’s not a great deal left of the castle, since it fell into ruin in the seventeenth century – apart from the fourteenth-century Fore Tower, most of what can be seen dates from the sixteenth century.
Golf in St Andrews
St Andrews Royal and Ancient Golf Club (or “R&A”) has been the international governing body for golf since 1754, when a meeting of 22 of the local gentry founded the Society of St Andrews Golfers, being “admirers of the ancient and healthful exercise of golf”. The game itself has been played here since the fifteenth century. Those early days were instrumental in establishing Scotland as the home of golf, for the rules were distinguished from those of the French game by the fact that participants had to manoeuvre the ball into a hole, rather than hit an above-ground target. It was not without its opponents, however – particularly James II who, in 1457, banned his subjects from playing since it was distracting them from archery practice.
The approach to St Andrews from the west runs adjacent to the famous Old Course, the oldest course in the world, and just one of seven in the immediate vicinity of the town. The R&A’s strictly private clubhouse, a stolid, square building dating from 1854, is at the eastern end of the Old Course overlooking both the 18th green and the long strand of the West Sands. The British Open Championship was first held here in 1873, having been inaugurated in 1860 at Prestwick in Ayrshire, and since then it has been held at St Andrews regularly, pulling in enormous crowds.
Himalayas putting course The Links, KY16 9JD 01334 475196, standrewsputtingclub.com. Arguably the most pleasurable golfing experience in St Andrews, even if you can’t tell a birdie from a bogey, this fantastically lumpy eighteen-hole putting course is in an ideal setting next to the Old Course and the sea. Officially the Ladies’ Putting Club, founded in 1867, with its own clubhouse, it has grass as perfectly manicured as the championship course, and you can have all the thrill of sinking a six-footer in golf’s most famous location, at the bargain price of £3. March Sat 11am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; April–Sept Mon–Fri 10.30am–6.30pm, Sat 10.30am–6pm, Sun noon–6.30pm; Oct daily 11am–3pm (weather permitting).
St Andrews Links Trust Alongside the fairway of the first hole of the Old Course standrews.org.uk. To play on the venerated Old Course itself you’ll need a valid handicap certificate and must enter a daily ballot for tee times; the green fees are £175 in summer. For full details contact the trust, which looks after all the courses in town.
Bruce Embankment, KY16 9AB • April–Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm; Nov–March daily 10am–4pm • £8 • 01334 460046, britishgolfmuseum.co.uk
Pictures of golfing greats from Tom Morris to Tiger Woods, along with clubs and a variety of memorabilia donated by famous players, are displayed in the admirable British Golf Museum. Telling the story of British golf from its beginnings to the present day, it is rather appropriately located on the waterfront below the Royal and Ancient Golf Club clubhouse.
St Andrews has two great beaches: West Sands, which stretches for two miles from just below the R&A Clubhouse, and the shorter, more compact, East Sands, which curves from the harbour beyond the cathedral. West Sands was featured in the opening sequences of the Oscar-winning film Chariots of Fire. The blustery winds, which are the scourge of golfers and walkers alike, do at least make it a great place to fly kites.
Main St, Guardbridge, 5 miles northwest of St Andrews, KY16 0US • Daily tours at various times 9am–5pm; 1hr • £10 • 01334 834038, edenmill.com • Take bus #99 towards Dundee (10min)
Forget the craft beer movement: the last few years have been all about Scottish craft gin, with St Andrews’ Eden Mill Gin Distillery in the vanguard. The first to distil gin in the area for more than 150 years, it has revived the city’s lost art on a historic site once owned by the Haig family, one of the country’s oldest whisky dynasties. As well as gin, Eden Mill has expanded into whisky and beer; lip-smacking tours are available to see each process come to life. Highly recommended is the gin tour, where after learning about locally sourced botanicals you can try tipples such as a bourbon-aged oak gin or – playing to the crowds – a cannily marketed golf gin. Serious connoisseurs should also venture farther down the coast to Crail to see the recently converted Kingsbarn Distillery (tours £10; 01333 451300, kingsbarndistillery.com).
Falkland, KY15 7BY • March–Oct Mon–Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm • £12.50; NTS • 01337 857397, nts.org.uk/Visit/Falkland-Palace • Buses #59, #64 or #94 (hourly) from St Andrews stop on New Rd, just east of the palace
A 35-minute drive southwest of St Andrews, the village of Falkland grew up around Falkland Palace, which stands on the site of an earlier castle, home to the Macduffs, the earls of Fife. James IV began the construction of the present palace in 1500; it was completed and embellished by James V, and became a favoured country retreat for the royal court. The palace was completely restored by the third Marquess of Bute, and today it is a stunning piece of architecture, complete with parapets, mullioned windows, round towers and massive walls. Free audioguides lead you through a cross section of public and private rooms in the south and east wings. Outside, the gardens are worth a look, their well-stocked herbaceous borders lining a pristine lawn. Don’t miss the high walls of the oldest real (or Royal) tennis court in Britain – built in 1539 for James V and still used.
Arrival and information ST ANDREWS and around
By train St Andrews’ nearest train station (on the Edinburgh–Dundee line) is 5 miles northwest at Leuchars, across the River Eden, from where regular buses make the 10min trip into town. When you buy your train ticket back to Leuchars, ask for a St Andrews rail-bus ticket, which includes the bus fare.
Destinations Aberdeen (hourly–every 2hr; 1hr 50min); Dundee (hourly–every 2hr; 35min); Edinburgh (hourly–every 2hr; 1hr20min).
By bus The bus station is on Station Rd, just off City Rd and near the town centre.
Destinations Anstruther (every 30min; 25min); Crail (hourly; 30min); Dundee (every 10min; 35min); Dunfermline (hourly; 1hr 30min); Edinburgh (hourly–every 2hr; 1hr 55min); Glasgow (hourly; 2hr 25min); Glenrothes (every 30min; 45min); Kirkcaldy (every 30min; 1hr30min); Stirling (every 2hr; 2hr).
Tourist office 70 Market St (April–June, Sept & Oct Mon–Sat 9.15am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm; July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.15am–6pm, Sun 10am–5pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 9.15am–5pm; 01334 472021, visitstandrews.com).
There’s no shortage of accommodation both in town and around, although average prices in all categories vie with Edinburgh’s as the highest in Scotland. Rooms often fill up in summer, when you should book in advance.
Fairmont St Andrews Bay 2 miles south of town, KY16 8PN 01334 837000, standrewsbay.com; map. Five-star golf hotel wedged between two of the area’s championship courses – the Torrance and the Kittocks. Unlike the majority of the city’s more traditional hotels, this is big and brash, with roomy corridors and staircases, and just enough splashes of tartan throughout its two hundred or so rooms to keep international golfers happy. £160
Hotel Du Vin 40 The Scores, KY16 9AS 01334 845313, hotelduvin.com; map. With the air of a Victorian clubhouse, this fabulous 36-room wine hotel knows its audience. Sweeping fairway views, tweed furnishings and golf memorabilia complement the modern rooms and, of course, the first tee of the world’s oldest golf course is just a 2min stroll away. £129
Kinkell House 2 miles south of town, off the A917, KY16 8PN 01334 472003, kinkell.com; map. Countryside B&B in a lovely family farmhouse near the beach; the house is furnished with antiques, and breakfast includes eggs from their own hens. £100
Knockhill Farm B&B 4 miles west of town, KY16 9XY 01334 850313, knockhillfarm.co.uk; map. A converted farmstead on a working farm with views over the Eden estuary. Choose from the former stable, tackroom, granary or hayloft, all spruced up with king-size beds, walk-in showers, TVs and private access. £120
Old Fishergate House 35 North Castle St 01334 470874, oldfishergatehouse.co.uk; map. One of the oldest townhouses in the oldest part of St Andrews, with two spacious twin rooms brimming with period features. It’s full of character without being cluttered; breakfast options include smoked haddock omelette and Scotch pancakes. Plus, free home-made shortbread! £125
St Andrews Tourist Hostel St Mary’s Place, KY16 9UY 01334 479911, hostelstandrews.com; map. Superbly located backpackers in a converted townhouse above The Grill House restaurant, with five-, seven- and eight-bed dorms, but no doubles. The cheapest option in town, but not the quietest. £11
The Adamson 127 South St, KY16 9UH 01334 479191, theadamson.com; map. Named after John Adamson, the pioneer photographer whose family lived in the building in the 1800s, this stylish see-and-be-seen bistro is where the St Andrews jet set come for exceptional mains (pork belly with black pudding or halibut with fennel, for example). If the sun shines, grab a people-watching spot out the front. Mains £10–28 at dinner, with an oyster happy hour (Mon–Thurs & Sun). Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 5–10pm, Sat & Sun noon–10pm.
Balgove Steak Barn Strathtyrum Farm, 1 mile north of town, KY16 9SF 01334 479475, balgove.com; map. This former sawmill, a patchwork of stacked potato boxes, timber beams and communal beechwood tables, is an inspired setting for eating fire-pit barbecue steaks and burgers made using free-range cuts from the butcher next door. Sticking to the farm-to-table philosophy, there’s a farm shop and a flower shed and the team run butchery classes and night markets, too. Keeping it casual, there’s a no bookings policy. Mains from £8.95. Wed–Sun noon–8.30pm.
Cromars 11 Union St, KY16 9PQ 01334 475555 cromars.co.uk; map. It’s some accolade, but this terrific restaurant and takeaway has been voted the best fish and chip shop in Scotland twice since opening in 2013. The reason is its sustainably sourced pokes of mussels, scallops and cod, plus home-made fishcakes, classic scampi and crispy whitebait. You’re not dreaming: this takeaway serves its chips with truffle oil and parmesan. Mains from £8.95. Daily 11.30am–10pm.
Jannettas Gelateria 31 South St, KY16 9QR 01334 479475, jannettasgelateria.co.uk; map. In Fife, some say Scotland, there is only one place to go for ice cream. Jannettas has been in business for one hundred years, producing artisan gelatos with seasonal flavours including rhubarb and ginger, peaches and cream, and Scottish tablet. Patience is key: there’s always a queue at the weekend. Mon–Sat 9am–10pm, Sun 10am–10pm.
The Peat Inn Cupar, 6 miles southwest of town, KY15 5LH 01334 840206, thepeatinn.co.uk; map. Maintaining its reputation as one of Scotland’s best restaurants for some 25 years, The Peat Inn excels at fine dining using top local produce – East Neuk wood pigeon, Baldinnie quail eggs and St Andrews Bay lobster, for example. Chef Geoffrey Smeddle’s menus range from a three-course set lunch (£22) to a six-course tasting menu (£70). They also have eight plush, if pricey, rooms. Tues–Sat 12.30–2pm & 6.30–9pm.
The Criterion 99 South St, KY16 9QW 01334 474543, criterionstandrews.co.uk; map. As traditional and creaky as a St Andrews boozer gets, this well-aged Victorian relic is renowned for its whisky selection (160 bottles at the last count) and its “Cri” pies (£8.50). Locals and tourists love it, particularly the in-demand pavement tables out front. Mon–Wed & Sun 10am–midnight, Thurs–Sat 10am–1am.
St Andrews Brewing Co 177 South St, KY16 9EE 01334 471111, standrewsbrewingcompany.com; map. Craft beer fans rejoice! This brewpub has eighteen taps of cask and keg ales, including as many local drops as they can fit behind the bar, plus comfort-food burgers and board games for rainy day sessions. Order a Crail Ale or Fife Gold to fit right in. Daily 11am–midnight.
Vic 1 St Marys Place, KY16 9UY 01334 476964; map. A Xanadu for craft beer drinkers and gourmet-burger lovers, this chilled-out pub and kitchen is Ground Zero for the town’s hipster scene. It gets packed out for the DJ nights and pub quizzes, and there’s a social club with ping pong and Wii. Mon, Tues & Sun10am–1am, Wed–Sat 10am–2am.
Byre Theatre Abbey St, KY16 9LA 01334 475000, byretheatre.com. Occupies a stylish modern building, with a pleasant bar and bistro. Productions range from Scottish drama to musicals; if anything is happening in St Andrews at the weekend it’s happening here. Box office Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.
Extending south of St Andrews as far as Largo Bay, the East Neuk is famous for its stopped-clock fishing villages replete with crow-stepped gables and red pan-tiled roofs, the Flemish influence indicating a history of strong trading links with the Low Countries. The area is dotted with blustery golf courses, and there are plenty of bracing coastal paths, including the waymarked Fife Coastal Path: tracing the shoreline between St Andrews and the Forth Rail Bridge, it’s at its most scenic in the East Neuk stretch.
CRAIL is the archetypally charming fishing village, its maze of rough cobbled streets leading steeply down to a tiny stone-built harbour surrounded by piles of lobster creels, and with fishermen’s cottages tucked into every nook and cranny. Though often populated by artists at their easels and camera-toting tourists, it is still a working harbour, and if the boats have been out you can buy fresh lobster and crab cooked to order from a small wooden shack on the harbour edge (see below). To trace the history of the town, visit the Crail Museum and Heritage Centre, 62 Marketgate (Mon–Sat, 11am–4pm, Sun 1.30pm–4pm; free; 01333 450869). Also worth a look is Crail Pottery, 75 Nethergate (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–5pm), which has a wide range of ceramics.
arrival and Information crail
By bus Bus #95 runs hourly to St Andrews (30min) and Leven (for connections to Edinburgh; 1hr) from the High St.
Tourist information Crail Museum and Heritage Centre (see above).
Crail Harbour Gallery and Tearoom Shoregate, KY10 3SU 01333 451896, crailharbourgallery.co.uk. Tucked into a wee seventeenth-century cottage on the way down to the harbour, with a terrace overlooking the Isle of May. They serve Fairtrade coffees, hot chocolate and paninis, plus local crab (£12), smoked salmon and herring (snacks from £6). Daily 10.15am–5.30pm (4.30pm in winter).
Reilly Shellfish 34 Shoregate, KY10 3SU 01333 450476. This tiny lobster and crab shack offers boat-fresh, zero-miles seafood with beach views, and is the best place in town for a sunset supper. A half lobster costs £12. Mid-April to early Oct Tues–Sun noon–4pm.
ANSTRUTHER, four miles south along the coast from Crail, is the largest of the East Neuk fishing harbours. With an attractively old-fashioned air and no shortage of character in its houses and narrow streets, it is also home to the wonderfully unpretentious Scottish Fisheries Museum.
Harbourhead, KY10 3AB • April–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun 11am–5pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun noon–4.30pm • £9 • 01333 310628, scotfishmuseum.org
Set in an atmospheric complex of sixteenth- to nineteenth-century buildings with timber ceilings and wooden floors, the Scottish Fisheries Museum chronicles the history of the fishing and whaling industries with ingenious displays, including a series of exquisite ships’ models built on site by a resident model-maker.
Boat trips Anstruther Harbour • One trip daily at varying times according to the tides; 4hr 30min–5hr for a round trip with 2hr 30min–3hr on the island • £26 • 07957 585200, isleofmayferry.com
Located on the rugged Isle of May, several miles offshore from Anstruther, is a lighthouse erected in 1816 by Robert Louis Stevenson’s grandfather, as well as the remains of Scotland’s first lighthouse, built in 1636. The island is now a nature reserve and bird sanctuary; as well as puffins, guillemots, shags and kittiwakes, boat trippers have the chance to see dolphins, seals and, if you get lucky, even the odd passing whale.
arrival and information anstruther
By bus Buses stop at the harbour and serve Edinburgh (hourly; 2hr 15min) and St Andrews (hourly; 25min).
Tourist information Scottish Fisheries Museum, Harbourhead (April–Sept Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun 11am–5pm; Oct–March Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun noon–4.30pm; 01333 310628).
The Cellar 24 East Green, KY10 3AA 01333 310378, thecellaranstruther.co.uk. Tucked in behind the Scottish Fisheries Museum in one of the village’s oldest buildings, once a cooperage and smokehouse, this fantastic restaurant serves classy dishes such as Anstruther crab with squid and partridge with cherry. Five courses £60. Wed 6.30–9pm, Thurs–Sun 12.30–1.45pm & 6.30–9pm.
The Ship Tavern Elie, 6 miles south of Anstruther, KY9 1DT4 01333 330246, shipinn.scot. A maritime pub with a restaurant and six rooms, this storming harbourfront inn is definitely worth the ten-minute trip south from Anstruther to stay overnight. The white and sky-blue wood-clad rooms are straight from a Scandinavian interiors catalogue, while the seafood in the restaurant is worth getting shipwrecked for. Mains from £13.50. Bar Mon–Thurs & Sun 10.30am–11pm, Fri & Sat 10.30am–midnight. Restaurant daily noon–3pm & 5–9pm. £150
Although the coast of southern Fife is predominantly industrial – with everything from cottage industries to the refitting of nuclear submarines – mercifully, only a small part has been blighted by insensitive development. Thanks to its proximity to the early coal mines, the charming village of Culross was once a lively port that enjoyed a thriving trade with Holland, the Dutch influence obvious in its lovely gabled houses. It was from nearby Dunfermline that Queen Margaret ousted the Celtic Church from Scotland in the eleventh century; her son, David I, founded an abbey here in the twelfth century. Southern Fife is linked to Edinburgh by the three Forth bridges, the red-painted girders of the Rail Bridge representing one of Britain’s great engineering spectacles.
CULROSS (pronounced “Coorus”) is one of Scotland’s most picturesque settlements, owing to the work of the National Trust for Scotland, which has been renovating its whitewashed, pan-tiled buildings since 1932. For an excellent introduction to the burgh’s history, head to the National Trust Visitor Centre, in the Town House facing Sandhaven, where goods were once unloaded from ships (times vary, check website; free; 01383 880359, nts.org.uk/Visit/Culross). Of particular note is the remains of Culross Abbey, founded by Cistercian monks on land given to the church in 1217 by the Earl of Fife. More recently, the entire village was recast as post-WWII Inverness for historic American TV soap Outlander.
April, May & Sept Mon, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm; June Mon & Wed–Sun 11am–5pm; July & Aug daily 11am–5pm; Oct Mon & Fri–Sun 11am–4pm • £10.50; NTS • 01383 880359, nts.org.uk/Visit/Culross
The most impressive building in the village is the ochre-coloured Culross Palace, built by wealthy coal merchant George Bruce in the late sixteenth century; it’s not a palace at all but a grand and impressive house, with lots of small rooms and connecting passageways. Inside, well-informed staff point out the wonderful painted ceilings, pine panelling, antique furniture and curios; outside, dormer windows and crow-stepped gables dominate the walled court in which the house stands.
Arrival and departure CULROSS
By bus Stagecoach bus #8 from Dunfermline train station runs to Culross (hourly; 25min).
Scotland’s capital until the Union of the Crowns in 1603, DUNFERMLINE lies inland seven miles east of Culross, north of the Forth bridges. Ringed by shabby development, the town is not initially charismatic, but the abbey and surrounds make it worth the trip.
Dunfermline, KY12 7PE • April–Sept daily 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct daily 10am–4pm; Nov–March Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 10am–12.30pm & 1.30–4pm • £5; HS • 01383 724586 dunfermlineabbey.com
The oldest part of Dunfermline Abbey is attributable to Queen Margaret, who began building a Benedictine priory in 1072, the remains of which can still be seen beneath the nave of the present church; her son, David I, raised the priory to the rank of abbey in the following century. In 1303, during the first of the Wars of Independence, the English king Edward I occupied the palace and ordered the destruction of most of the monastery buildings. Robert the Bruce helped rebuild the abbey, and when he died of leprosy 25 years later was buried here, although his body went undiscovered until construction began on a new parish church in 1821. Inside, the stained glass is impressive, and the columns are artfully carved into chevrons, spirals and arrowheads.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE dunfermline
By train Dunfermline has two train stations: Queen Margaret and Dunfermline Town. The latter is the most convenient; it’s on the south side of the centre, with its main entrance off St Margaret’s Drive.
Destinations Edinburgh (every 30min; 40min); Kirkcaldy (hourly; 1hr).
By bus The bus station is on Queen Anne St, between Carnegie Drive and High St.
Destinations Culross (hourly; 25min); Edinburgh (every 30min; 1hr); Glasgow (every 30min; 1hr 20min); Kirkcaldy (hourly; 50min); North Queensferry (every 30min; 30min); Stirling (every 2hr; 1hr 30min).
The highlight of Fife’s south coast is the trilogy of Scotland’s finest man-made structures (theforthbridges.org): the impressive Forth Rail Bridge, the Forth Road Bridge and the newly opened Queensferry Crossing, all of which join Fife at NORTH QUEENSFERRY. Until the opening of the road bridge, this small fishing village was the northern landing point of the ferry from South Queensferry.
The cantilevered Forth Rail Bridge, built from 1883 to 1890 by Sir John Fowler and Benjamin Baker, ranks among the supreme achievements of Victorian engineering, with some fifty thousand tonnes of steel used in the construction of a design that manages to express grace as well as might. The only way to cross the rail bridge is on a train heading to or from Edinburgh, but this doesn’t allow much of a perspective of the spectacle itself. For the best panorama, use the pedestrian and cycle lanes on the east side of the road bridge.
Derived from American models, the suspension format chosen for the Forth Road Bridge, alongside the rail bridge, once made an interesting modern complement to the older structure. Erected between 1958 and 1964 it finally killed off the 900-year-old ferry, but dogged by maintenance problems and overused by commuter traffic this slate-gray “Golden Gate” has been usurped in the engineering stakes by the 1.7 mile-long Queensferry Crossing to the west. It is now only open to public buses, cyclists and pedestrians.
Opened in August 2017 by Queen Elizabeth II, 53 years to the day after she opened the adjacent Forth Road Bridge, this engineering behemoth is the biggest infrastructure project in Scotland in a generation. Costing £1.35bn, the Queensferry Crossing is the longest three-tower, cable-stayed bridge in the world, absorbing the vast bulk of traffic from the Forth Road Bridge. Unlike its predecessor, the new crossing affords no access to pedestrians or cyclists.
Arrival and departure north queenSferry
By train Trains connect North Queensferry with Edinburgh every 15min (25min).
By bus There are hourly services to Dunfermline (30min) from the main road.
Genteel, attractive Perthshire is, in many ways, the epitome of well-groomed rural Scotland. An area of gentle glens, mature woodland, rushing rivers and peaceful lochs, it’s the long-established domain of Scotland’s well-to-do country set. First settled more than eight thousand years ago, it was ruled by the Romans and then the Picts before Celtic missionaries established themselves.
The ancient town of Perth occupies a strategic position at the mouth of the River Tay; salmon, wool and, by the sixteenth century, whisky, were exported, while a major import was Bordeaux claret. At nearby Scone, Kenneth MacAlpine established the capital of the kingdom of the Scots and the Picts in 846. When this settlement was washed away by floods in 1210, William the Lion founded Perth as a royal burgh.
North and west of Perth, Highland Perthshire is made up of gorgeous and mighty woodlands, particularly along the banks of the River Tay. The area is dotted with neat, confident towns and villages like Dunkeld, with its mature trees and lovely ruined cathedral, and Aberfeldy set deep among farmland east of Loch Tay. Farther north, the countryside becomes more sparsely populated and spectacular, with some wonderful walking country, especially around Pitlochry, Blair Atholl and the wild expanses of Rannoch Moor to the west.
activity operators in Perthshire
In Perthshire, outdoor activities range from gentle strolls through ancient oak forests to white-knuckle rides down frothing waterfalls.
Highland Safaris Aberfeldy, PH15 2JQ 01887 820071, highlandsafaris.net. An inspiring introduction to wild Scotland in which you’re taken by 4WD to search for golden eagle eyries, stags and pine martens.
Nae Limits Dunkeld and Ballinluig, PH9 0LG 01796 482600, naelimits.co.uk. An everything-but-the-kitchen-sink operator for adrenalin junkies: canyoning, cliff-jumping, bungee jumping, river tubing and gorge walking.
National Kayak School Aberfeldy, PA34 5SG 01631 565310, nationalkayakschool.com. Based out of Oban on the west coast as well as in Aberfeldy, this outfit offers a multitude of whitewater kayaking courses and kayaking holidays.
Splash Aberfeldy, PH15 2AQ 01887 829706, rafting.co.uk. Rafting on larger craft through the best rapids on the Tay at Grandtully, plus accredited rafting courses.
Surrounded by fertile agricultural land and beautiful scenery, the bustling market town of PERTH was Scotland’s capital in the fifteenth century, and expanded in the eighteenth. Today, with the whisky and insurance trades employing significant numbers, it remains an important town. Two large areas of green parkland, known as the North and South Inch, flank the centre; the city’s main shopping areas are High Street and South Street, along with St John’s Shopping Centre on King Edward Street. Perth is at its most attractive along Tay Street, with a succession of grander buildings along one side and the attractively landscaped riverside embankment on the other.
Corner of Tay St and Marshall Place, PH2 8NS • Tues–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4.30pm • Free • 01738 783425, pkc.gov.uk/museums
Perth’s artistic highlight is the Fergusson Gallery, occupying a striking Victorian sandstone water tower, and home to an extensive collection of work by J.D. Fergusson, foremost artist of the Scottish Colourist movement. Greatly influenced by Impressionist and Post-Impressionist artists, he created a distinctive approach that marries both movements’ freedom of style with bold use of colour and lighting – shown, for example, in his portrait of Elizabeth Dryden, The Hat with the Pink Scarf. In addition to oils, the collection includes sketches, notebooks and sculpture.
A couple of miles north of Perth on the A93, PH2 6BD • April & Oct daily 9am–4pm; May–Sept daily 9.30am–5pm; Nov–March Fri–Sun (grounds only) 10am–4pm • £11.50, grounds only £6.80 (grounds free in winter) • 01738 552300, scone-palace.co.uk • Bus #3 (towards Scone) or #58 (towards Blairgowrie) from Perth
Scone Palace (pronounced “skoon”) is one of Scotland’s finest historical country homes. Owned and occupied by the Earl and Countess of Mansfield, the two-storey building on the eastern side of the Tay is stately but not overpowering, more a home than an untouchable monument. The rooms, although full of priceless antiques and lavish furnishings, feel lived-in.
The abbey that stood here in the sixteenth century was where all Scottish kings until James IV were crowned. Long before that, Scone was the capital of Pictavia, and it was here that Kenneth MacAlpine brought the famous Coronation Stone of Destiny, or Stone of Scone, now to be found in Edinburgh Castle, and where he ruled as the first king of a united Scotland. A replica of the (surprisingly small) stone can be found on Moot Hill, opposite the palace. In the grounds you’ll also find a beech-hedge maze in the pattern of the heraldic family crest and avenues of venerable trees. Scone was the birthplace of botanist and plant collector David Douglas, and following the trail named after him brings you to a fragrant pinetum planted in 1848 with many of the exotic species he discovered in California and elsewhere.
Newburgh,12 miles southeast of Perth, KY14 6HH • Distillery tours (45min) 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2pm: April–Sept daily; Oct–March Wed–Sun • £12.50 • 01337 842547, lindoresabbeydistillery.com
Whisky’s spiritual home – or at least the site of the earliest written reference to Scotch production, in 1494 – the sleek Lindores Abbey Distillery and visitor centre, opened in October 2017, heralds a revival for central Scotland whisky. A £5 million investment has seen the once-derelict Lindores Abbey, in ruin since it was sacked during the Reformation by John Knox, reborn with the addition of a new distillery, shop and café. Though located in Fife, it’s best accessed from Perth – it’s a fifteen-minute drive east along the banks of the River Tay.
ARRIVAL AND information perth
By train The station is in the southwest of town on Leonard St.
Destinations Aberdeen (hourly; 1hr 35min); Blair Atholl (every 1hr 30min; 47min); Dundee (every 30min; 25min); Dunkeld (3–7 daily; 35min); Edinburgh (hourly; 1hr 25min); Glasgow Queen St (every 30min; 1hr); Inverness (4–9 daily; 2hr 15min); Pitlochry (4–9 daily; 30min); Stirling (hourly; 30min).
By bus The bus station is opposite the train station on Leonard St.
Destinations Aberfeldy (10 daily; 1hr 20min); Crieff (hourly; 55min); Dundee (every 30min; 45min); Dunkeld (hourly; 55min); Edinburgh (hourly; 1hr 45min); Glasgow (hourly; 1hr 30min); Gleneagles (hourly; 45min); Inverness (hourly; 2hr 45min); Pitlochry (hourly; 1hr 15min); Stirling (hourly; 45min).
Tourist information Visit Scotland iCentre, 45 High St (Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 11am–4pm; 01738 450600, visitscotland.com/info/services/perth-icentre-p234431).
Gleneagles Auchterarder, 16 miles southwest of Perth, PH3 1NF 01764 662231, gleneagles.com. Scotland’s most luxurious hotel bar none. There’s a polished spa, three eighteen-hole championship golf courses and opportunities aplenty to act like a monarch of the glen while trout fishing, shooting or visiting the gun dog school. New arrivals following a multimillion pound reboot include the Art Deco American Bar, the excellent Birnam Brasserie and laidback Garden Café. The dress code may scream Barbour jacket and Hunter Wellingtons, but with a spectacular two-Michelin-star restaurant from top Scots chef Andrew Fairlie to boot, who cares? £325
Parklands Hotel 2 St Leonards Bank, PH2 8EB 01738 622451, theparklandshotel.com. Of the numerous central hotels, aim for the fifteen-bedroom Parklands close to the train station, which has a dash of contemporary styling and touches of luxury behind its Victorian facade. Restaurant 63@Parklands is sister to the highly recommended 63 Tay Street (see below). £69.50
The Townhouse 17 Marshall Place, PH2 8AG 01738 446179, thetownhouseperth.co.uk. Lovely Georgian B&B overlooking South Inch Park run by a Scots-French couple who traded St Barts in the Caribbean for Perth. Rooms come with generous touches (antique furnishings, rainforest showers, home-made biscuits), and the hosts are as helpful as they come. £120
63 Tay Street 63 Tay St, PH2 8NN 01738 441451, 63taystreet.com. At the top end of the market in Perth, serving wild game and seafood with a Scots-Mediterranean twist. It’s pricey (dinner mains from £19), but the four-course surprise lunch menu is a bargain £22. Tues & Wed 5.45–8.45pm, Thurs–Sat noon–1.45pm & 6–9pm.
The Bothy 33 Kinnoull St, PH1 5EN 0845 659 5907, bothyperth.co.uk. More Scottish than Billy Connolly or the Loch Ness Monster, The Bothy’s menu is a tour de force of Scottish produce. From Isle of Arran haggis and Barra scallops to Inverlochy goats’ cheese and Orkney ribeye, provenance and seasonality is the order of the day. Mains from £12.95. Tues–Thurs 6–9.30pm, Fri 6–10pm, Sat 6–10.30pm.
Pig’Halle 38 South St, PH2 8PG 01738 248784, pighalle.co.uk. The decor may be kitsch, but the food at Paula and Herve Tabourel’s French brassiere is impeccable. Dishes such as confit pig’s trotters (£14) and garlicky moules marinière (£13) set the culinary mood. Tues & Wed noon–3pm & 5.30–9.30pm, Thurs–Sat noon–3pm & 5.30–10.30pm, Sun noon–3pm & 5.30–9pm.
North of Perth, both the railway and main A9 trunk road speed through some of Perthshire’s most attractive countryside before heading into the Highlands. Magnificent woodland spreads around the valley – or “strath” – of the River Tay, as it heads towards the sea from attractive Loch Tay. On the eastern side of the loch, the Tay calmly glides past the attractive country town of Aberfeldy. The loch itself, meanwhile, is set up among the high Breadalbane mountains, which include the striking peak of Ben Lawers, Perthshire’s highest, and the hills that enclose the long, enchanting Glen Lyon.
Twelve miles north of Perth, DUNKELD was proclaimed Scotland’s ecclesiastical capital by Kenneth MacAlpine in 850. The town is one of the area’s most pleasant communities, with handsome whitewashed houses, appealing arts and crafts shops, a picturesque cathedral and a vibrant folk music venue.
10 Cathedral St, PH8 0AW • Daily: April–Sept 9.30am–5.30pm; Oct–March 10am–4pm • Free • 01350 727249, dunkeldcathedral.org.uk
The partly ruined Dunkeld Cathedral is on the northern side of town, in an idyllic setting amid lawns and trees on the east bank of the Tay. The present structure consists of the fourteenth-century choir and the fifteenth-century nave; the choir, restored in 1600 (and several times since), now serves as the parish church, while the nave remains roofless apart from the clocktower.
Arrival and Information dunkeld
By train Dunkeld station is served by fast and frequent services from Perth (10 daily; 20min).
Tourist office The Cross, town centre (April–June & Sept Mon–Sat 10.30am–4.30pm, Sun 11am–4pm; July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–6.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Oct–March Fri–Sun 11am–4pm; 01350 727688, visitscotland.com/info/services/dunkeld-icentre-p333361).
Taybank Hotel Tay Terrace, PH8 0AQ 01350 727340, thetaybank.co.uk. Despite the name, this characterful beacon for music fans – who come for the regular live sessions (every Wed & Thurs) in the convivial bar – isn’t a hotel but a pub. Decent bar meals, too (the Dunkeld smoked salmon is a speciality). Mains from £9. Mon–Thurs & Sun 11am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11am–midnight.
A prosperous settlement of large stone houses and 4WDs, ABERFELDY acts as a service centre for the wider Loch Tay area. The town’s main attraction is Dewar’s Aberfeldy Distillery, where tours, which incude a dram, describe the whisky-making process (tours every 30min: Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–2pm; 1hr 30min; from £9.50; dewars.com). The rest of the town centre is a mixture of craft and tourist shops, the most interesting being The Watermill on Mill Street (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm; aberfeldywatermill.com), an inspiring bookshop, café and art gallery in a restored, early nineteenth-century mill.
ARRIVAL AND information aberfeldy
By bus Buses connect Aberfeldy with Perth (6–9 daily; 1hr 25min), stopping at Chapel St.
Tourist office The Square (April–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10.30am–3.30pm; Nov–March Mon–Wed & Sat 10am–4pm; 01887 820276).
A fourteen-mile-long stretch of fresh water, Loch Tay virtually hooks together the western and eastern Highlands. Guarding the northern end of the loch is KENMORE, a cluster of whitewashed estate houses and well-tended gardens. The main draw here is living heritage museum, the Scottish Crannog Centre.
Kenmore, PH15 2HY • April–Oct daily 10am–5.30pm • £10 • 01887 830583, crannog.co.uk
Crannogs are Iron Age loch dwellings built on stilts over the water. Originally they would have had a gangway to the shore; upon the approach of hostile intruders, whether animal or human, the gangway would quickly be raised. At the Scottish Crannog Centre visitors can walk out over the loch to a superbly reconstructed, thatched, wooden crannog set up to look as it would have 2500 years ago.
Dominating the northern side of Loch Tay is spectacular Ben Lawers (3984ft), Perthshire’s highest mountain; from the top there are incredible views towards Argyll and the Highlands. The ascent – which should not be tackled unless you’re properly equipped for hillwalking – takes around three hours and can be reached via a winding hill road off the A827.
ARRIVAL and departure LOCH TAY
By bus The convenient hop-on, hop-off Ring of Breadalbane Explorer bus that once connected Aberfeldy, Kenmore, Killin, Comrie and Crieff has been cancelled until further notice. Consider a taxi or a rental car.
Comrie Croft 5 miles east of Crieff, Braincroft, PH7 4JZ 01764 670140, comriecroft.com. Hillwalking and glamping eco-nirvana with Nordic katas (wigwams), tent pitches and a farmhouse hostel ideal for an off-grid wilderness experience. Discount if arriving by public transport. Camping £8, dorms £25, katas £99
North of the Tay Valley, Perthshire doesn’t discard its lush richness immediately, but there are clear indications of the more rugged, barren influences of the Highlands proper. The principal settlements of Pitlochry and Blair Atholl, both off the A9, are separated by the narrow gorge of Killiecrankie, once a crucial strategic spot for anyone seeking to control movement of cattle or armies from the Highlands to the Lowlands. Greater rewards, however, are to be found farther from the main drag, most notably in the winding westward road along the shores of Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch past the distinctive peak of Schiehallion, which eventually leads to the remote wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
PITLOCHRY has a lot going for it, not least the backdrop of Ben Vrackie and the River Tummel slipping by. While there’s little charm to be found on the main street, filled with shops selling cut-price woollens, it has plenty of castle hotels and is the jumping-off point for hiking and biking adventures in the surrounding countryside.
A couple of miles east of Pitlochry on the A924, PH16 5JP • Tours (1hr) hourly: April–Oct Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Nov–March Mon–Fri 10am–4.30pm • £7.50 • 01887 830583, edradour.co.uk
In an idyllic position tucked into the hills, Edradour Distillery is Scotland’s smallest. Although the tour itself isn’t out of the ordinary, the fact that the whole grain-to-glass process is done on site gives Edradour more personality than many of its rivals.
Armoury Rd, PH16 5AP • Daily 9.30am–5.30pm • Free • 01796 484111, pitlochrydam.com
Home to a salmon ladder, where fish can be seen acrobatically leaping up the gushing river from a series of viewing windows, the family-friendly Pitlochry Dam and Fish Ladder has an innovatively designed visitor centre with breathtaking views down the glen. As well as interactive exhibits on the history of hydroelectricity and the salmon life cycle, there is a café and shop.
arrival AND departure pitlochry
By train Pitlochry is on the main line to Inverness (hourly; 1hr 40min). The station is on Station Rd, just south of the centre.
By bus Regular buses from Perth (hourly–every 2hr; 1hr 25min) and Inverness (7 daily; 2hr 10min) stop near the train station.
Tourist office 22 Atholl Rd (April–June Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–5pm; July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; Sept & Oct Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Nov–March Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; 01796 472215, visitscotland.com/info/services/pitlochry-icentre-p234421).
Cycling Escape Route, 3 Atholl Rd (01796 473859, escape-route.co.uk), can provide advice on local cycling routes, bike rental (£24/day) and general outdoor gear.
Knockendarroch Hotel Higher Oakfield, PH16 5HT 01796 473473, knockendarroch.co.uk. One of the buzziest wee hotels in the country, the Knockendarroch benefits from close ties to the Pitlochry Festival Theatre across the river, good pre-theatre menus in the (evening only) restaurant and a great whisky lounge with a log fire. Daily 5.30–9.30pm £150
Pitlochry Backpackers Hotel 134 Atholl Rd, PH16 5AB 01796 470044, pitlochrybackpackershotel.com. This central hostel, based in a renovated Victorian hotel, offers dorms along with around ten en-suite twins and doubles. Dorms £19.50, doubles £52.50
Pitlochry is the domain of the tearoom; you have to look to the hotels for a fine three-course meal.
Moulin Inn Moulin, on Pitlochry’s outskirts along A924, PH16 5EW 01796 472196, moulinhotel.co.uk. A great bet for traditional pub grub (mains from £10), this award-winning inn is handily placed at the foot of Ben Vrackie. The original building dates back to 1695, but the microbrewery is shiny new. Daily noon–9.30pm.
The Old Mill Inn Mill Lane, PH16 5BH 01796 474020, theoldmillpitlochry.co.uk. If after all that fresh air you need some real ale, head to this popular family-run inn for its superb selection of local IPAs and stouts. The food menu is a great calorific companion to a pint, with sandwiches, pastas, steaks and Buckie-caught haddock and chips. Mains from £13.95. Daily 8am–9pm.
Pitlochry Festival Theatre Port Na Craig, PH16 5DR 01796 484626, pitlochry.org.uk. On the western edge of town, Scotland’s renowned “Theatre in the Hills” stages a variety of productions – mostly mainstream theatre from the resident rep company, along with regular music events – during the summer season and on ad hoc dates the rest of the year.
West of Pitlochry, the B8019/B846 makes a memorably scenic, if tortuous, traverse of the shores of Loch Tummel and then Loch Rannoch. These two lochs and their adjoining rivers were much changed by massive hydroelectric schemes built in the 1940s and 1950s, yet this is still a spectacular stretch of countryside. Queen’s View at the eastern end of Loch Tummel is an obvious vantage point, looking down the loch to the misty peak of Schiehallion (3553ft), whose name comes from the Gaelic meaning “Fairy Mountain”. One of Scotland’s few freestanding hills, it’s a popular, fairly easy and inspiring climb, with views on a good day to both sides of the country. The path up starts at Braes of Foss, just off the B846: allow three to four hours to the top and back.
Beyond Loch Tummel, at the eastern end of Loch Rannoch, the small community of KINLOCH RANNOCH doesn’t see a lot of passing trade other than fishermen and hillwalkers. Otherwise, the only real destination here is Rannoch station, a lonely outpost on the Glasgow–Fort William West Highland train line, sixteen miles farther on at the end of the road.
Rannoch Moor
Rannoch Moor occupies roughly 150 square miles of uninhabited peat bogs, lochs, heather hillocks, strewn lumps of granite and a few gnarled Caledonian pine, all of it more than 1000ft above sea level. Perhaps the most striking aspect is its inaccessibility: one road, between Crianlarich and Glen Coe, skirts its western side, while another struggles west from Pitlochry to reach its eastern edge at Rannoch Station. The only regular form of transport is the West Highland railway, which stops at Rannoch and, a little to the north, Corrour station, which has no road access at all. From Rannoch station it’s possible to catch the train to Corrour and walk the nine miles back; it’s a longer slog west to the eastern end of Glen Coe, the dramatic peaks of which poke up above the moor’s western horizon.
Corrour Lodge 5 miles from Corrour train station on the shores of Loch Ossian, PH30 4AA 01397 707070, corrour.co.uk. Part James Bond lair, part Narnia castle, this remote seven-bedroom wilderness lodge for stalking and walking is a triumph of modern architecture and as far from the clichéd Highland country house as you can get. It needs to be booked on an exclusive basis (price on request), but there are a variety of great cottages to pick from. £320
SYHA Loch Ossian A mile from Corrour train station on the shores of Loch Ossian, PH30 4AA 01397 732207, syha.org.uk/where-to-stay/highlands/loch-ossian. This comfortable, cosy – and remote – eco-hostel is a great place for hikers seeking somewhere genuinely off the beaten track. Good wildlife-watching opportunities, too. £19
ARRIVAL AND departure loch rannoch
By train Rannoch station sees trains to Corrour (3–4 daily; 12min); Fort William (3–4 daily; 1hr); Glasgow Queen St (3–4 daily; 2hr 45min) and London Euston (sleeper service; Sun–Fri daily; 11–12hr 40min).
By bus Buses run to Kinloch Rannoch from Pitlochry (Mon, Wed & Fri 4 daily; 55min); Broons Bus runs #DRT2, an on-demand Dial-A-Bus service to Rannoch Station (40min; 01882 632418).
Dunalastair Hotel Suites Kinloch Rannoch, PH16 5PW 01882 580444, dunalastairhotel.com. Historic stone venue at the heart of loch life, given a multimillion-pound overhaul by new owners. Deluxe suites feature contemporary furnishings, a splash of art and humungous beds. £159
Moor of Rannoch Rannoch Station, PH17 2QA 01882 633238, moorofrannoch.co.uk. Pleasant, small hotel in a handsome whitewashed building. Despite a friendly welcome, there’s still a feeling of isolation in this empty landscape. Closed Nov to mid-Feb. £140
Four miles north of Pitlochry, the A9 cuts through the Pass of Killiecrankie, a sigh-triggering wooded gorge that falls away to the River Garry below. This dramatic setting was the site of the Battle of Killiecrankie in 1689, when the Jacobites quashed the forces of General Mackay. Legend has it that one soldier of the Crown, fleeing for his life, made a miraculous jump across the 18ft Soldier’s Leap, an impossibly wide chasm halfway up the gorge. Exhibits at the slick NTS visitor centre on the east side of the Pass (April–Nov daily 10am–5pm; 01796 473233, nts.org.uk/Visit/Killiecrankie) recall the battle and examine the gorge in detail.
Three miles north of Killiecrankie, the village of BLAIR ATHOLL makes for a much quieter and more idiosyncratic stop than Pitlochry. You can wander around the still functioning Watermill on Ford Road (April–Oct daily 9.30am–4.30pm; free; blairathollwatermill.co.uk), which dates from 1613, and witness flour being milled. The mill also has a great bakery and tearoom.
Blair Atholl, PH18 5TL • April–Oct daily 9.30am–5.30pm (last admission 4.30pm); Nov–March occasional weekends – see website for details • £11; grounds only £6.50 • 01796 481207, blair-castle.co.uk
By far the most important and eye-catching building in these parts is Blair Castle, seat of the Atholl dukedom for more than seven hundred years. This whitewashed, turreted Hogwarts looks particularly impressive as you sweep along the driveway leading from the centre of Blair Atholl village, especially if a piper is playing. The pipers belong to the Atholl Highlanders, a select group retained by the duke as his private army – a unique privilege afforded to him by Queen Victoria, who stayed here in 1844. Highlights are the soaring entrance hall and the vast ballroom, with its timber roof, antlers, and mixture of portraits.
ARRVAL and INFORMATION blair Atholl
By train Trains from Pitlochry heading north arrive at Blair Atholl station (every 2–3hr; 9min).
By bus There are Citylink bus services from Edinburgh (daily; 2hr 40min), Glasgow (daily; 3hr), Perth (daily; 1hr) and Inverness (daily; 2hr) to the Atholl Arms in Blair Atholl.
Atholl Estates Information Centre Opposite the Blair Castle Caravan Park, just off A9 (April–Oct daily 9am–4.45pm; 01796 481355, athollestatesrangerservice.co.uk).
Blair Atholl Watermill Ford Rd, PH18 5SH 01796 481321, blairathollwatermill.co.uk. Lovely little working mill where you can enjoy home-baked scones, cakes and light lunches in its timber-beamed tearoom. Daily 9.30am–4.30pm.
