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Index
Cover Page
Title Page
Copyright Page
Contents
Prologue
Introduction
Chapter 1: The Early Quest for Extreme Altitude
Introduction
Laying the Foundation
Box: Discovering and Naming the World's Highest Mountain
Box: Sir George Everest
Box: Oxygen and Altitude
Box: Alexander Mitchell Kellas
Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing
The Pre-Everest Years: Considerations of a Physiological Nature
Breaching the 8000m Barrier
The Lessons of the 1922 Everest Expedition
Everest: 1924 to the Second World War
Box: Did Mallory and Irvine Reach the Summit?
Chapter 2: Reaching the Highest Summits
Box: Frostbite
Box: Tenzing Norgay
Box: The Closed Circuit Oxygen System and the Ascent of Everest's South Summit
Box: Ed Hillary
The Remaining 8000m Peaks
Chapter 3: The Next Generation
The Silver Hut
Everest in the 1960s and 1970s
Box: Tom Hornbein
Box: High-altitude Illnesses
Box: Reinhold Messner
Box: Peter Habeler
Box: Spirits on the Wind: Hallucinations at High Altitude
Box: Cosmic Rays and High-altitude Climbers
Chapter 4: The Slippery Slope
Commercialism
Ambition and Competence
Box: Dexamethasone
Morality and Ambition
Box: Sherpas
Chapter 5: Redefining the Game
Box: Finding Mallory
Box: Fast Ascents
Physiology in the New Century
Everest Today
Box: VO2 Max and Other Measures of Interest
Everest - The Risks
Box: Hypothermia
The Future
Plates
Notes
Index
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