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Index
Praise
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION
PROLOGUE
PART I - KING COTTON
Chapter 1 - HOW AMERICA HAS DOMINATED THE GLOBAL COTTON INDUSTRY FOR 200 YEARS
Chapter 2 - THE HISTORY OF AMERICAN COTTON
Keep the Fiddler Well-Supplied with Catgut
Eli Meets a Venture Capitalist
Where Was the Competition?
All God’s Dangers Ain’t a White Man
Cotton Factories Arrive in Texas
Chapter 3 - BACK AT THE REINSCH FARM
C.F. and Hattie Move West (and Bring a Tractor)
White Guys Get All Draggy-Like
Bureaucrats Push Out Sharecroppers
Machines that Don’t Get All Discouraged
Pick Your Weather
The Reinsch Children Leave the Farm
Old Enemies, New Friends
Designer Genes
Back to Nature or Forward to the Future?
Chapter 4 - ALL GOD’S DANGERS AIN’T THE SUBSIDIES
Backward to Seed and Forward to Denim: Farmer Profits at Every Step
No More Handfuls
All This and Subsidies, Too
Pretty Pigs
No Lipstick for Africa
Where Is the Competition?
Vicious Circles
Too Poor to Pollute
Bt Cotton Comes to China
The Worms Win
PART II - MADE IN CHINA
Chapter 5 - COTTON COMES TO CHINA
The Chinese Wall
Shanghai Number 36 Cotton Yarn Factory
The Shanghai Brightness Number 3 Garment Factory
Chapter 6 - THE LONG RACE TO THE BOTTOM
Inventive Brits versus Thrifty Chinamen
Help Wanted: Docile and Desperate Preferred
Chapter 7 - SISTERS IN TIME
Docility on a Leash
Sure Beats the Farm
Amazon.com and Dell Arrive at the Mill
Chapter 8 - THE UNWITTING CONSPIRACY
Writing the Rules of the Race
Activists Raise the Bottom, 1780-2008
Back at Georgetown, Bored Is Good
Bad for Boy Rats
Trade: Friend or Foe of the Planet?
The China Challenge
The Race Moves On
PART III - TROUBLE AT THE BORDER
Chapter 9 - RETURNING TO AMERICA
Chinese T-Shirts Versus American Jobs
A Taste of the (Crazy) Rules in 2008
Chapter 10 - DOGS SNARLING TOGETHER
Auggie Goes to Washington
Making Deals and Making Exceptions
1985 to 1990: The Seed-to-Shirt Coalition
Snarling Back
Gone On Long Enough
The Slow Unraveling
Chapter 11 - PERVERSE EFFECTS AND UNINTENDED CONSEQUENCES OF T-SHIRT TRADE POLICY
No More Doffers
Own Worst Enemy
Friends with Benefits
Wal-Mart Backs Musharraf
Race to the Quotas
Auggie and Aristotle Versus Wal-Mart
Creative Destruction
Whither the Dinosaurs?
(Unintended) Winners
Chapter 12 - 45 YEARS OF “TEMPORARY” PROTECTIONISM ENDS IN 2009—NOW WHAT?
The Big Bang
The Big Wink and Nod
A Sigh of Relief
What’s Next?
Friends and Enemies, 2008
Obama’s Wink
Try This New Underwear
PART IV - MY T-SHIRT FINALLY ENCOUNTERS A FREE MARKET
Chapter 13 - WHERE T-SHIRTS GO AFTER THE SALVATION ARMY BIN
Meet Me in the Parking Lot
Panning for Gold in New Jersey
T-Shirts in the Afterlife
Chapter 14 - HOW SMALL ENTREPRENEURS CLOTHE EAST AFRICA WITH OLD AMERICAN T-SHIRTS
Mitumba Nation
Two for a Penny
Panning for Gold in Tanzania
Finding Geofrey
Too Big for Used Britches
Chapter 15 - MITUMBA: FRIEND OR FOE TO AFRICA?
Shadowy Middlemen and Economic Democracy
Don’t Look Now, but China Is Behind You
CONCLUSION
Acknowledgements
NOTES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
INDEX
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