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Index
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
A Note from the Publisher
About the Editor
AUTHORS
Contents
Part_12 – SUSTAINABILITY & ECO-RESPONSIBILITY
Part 12.0 A Global Approach for the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry
Part 12.1 Defining Sustainability and how it changes the innovation process
12.1.1 Sustainability—a critical business issue
12.1.2 Innovation is a critical but challenging component of any sustainability strategy
a. The concept of open innovation (OI)
b. Open innovation and sustainability are synergistic
c. Transparency
d. Collaboration
12.1.3 Integration of sustainability principles into innovation practices is evolutionary
a. Six key traits of sustainable companies
b. Few companies explicitly recognize and exploit open innovation as a tool to help them on this sustainability pathway
c. Companies practice open innovation for sustainability adopt a more complete model of open innovation
d. Practical lessons can be learned from companies that have recognized the synergies between sustainability and OI
References
Part 12.2 A Botanist’s view of Sustainability: Use or Abuse in the Personal Care Industry?
12.2.1 Introduction
12.2.2 What happens once you find a species of interest?
1. Accurate identification of botanicals
2. Understanding why the plant is used in the product, and what part or form will give the best result to the consumer
3. Truthful representation of the local uses of the plant in marketing efforts
4. Making sure the environment is not degraded as a result of harvesting botanicals
5. Ensuring that local communities are not negatively impacted by the harvest of the plant
6. Under the spirit and intent of the United Nations–sponsored Convention on Biodiversity, compensation to groups and source countries where the materials and ideas were obtained
12.2.3 Sustainable production of wild-harvested products
Acknowledgments
References
Part 12.3 The Herboretum Network for promoting local cultures and biodiversity
12.3.1 Introduction
12.3.2 The Herboretum, a true open-air plant laboratory dedicated to plants used in beauty, health, and well-being
a. An area of reflection, a scientific and natural approach
b. An area of protection, a long-term commitment to the protection of plant resources
12.3.3 The Herboretum organizes themed visits of four different kinds: school groups, the general public, professionals, and organizations
12.3.4 The Herboretum Network, a unique interface between the phytocosmetic industry and biodiversity
Conclusion
Part 12.4 The advantages and potential contribution of local cultures for carbon footprint reduction
12.4.1 Introduction
12.4.2 The use of plants in cosmetics
12.4.3 Plant origin
a. Name and identification
b. Wild plants
c. Cultivated plants
d. Good agricultural practices
12.4.4 Plant breeding
a. Mass selection
b. Cross-breeding
12.4.5 Farming method
a. Conventional farming (sustainable farming)
b. Organic farming
12.4.6 Initial post-harvest processing
a. The fresh plant
b. Dry plants
c. Storage
Conclusion
Part 12.5 Cosmetic ingredients from plant cell cultures: A new eco-sustainable approach
12.5.1 Introduction
12.5.2 Traditional methods of botanical sourcing
12.5.3 Basic Parameters Influencing Extract Quality
12.5.4 Advantages of plant cell cultures: the new alternative
12.5.5 Sustainability of the biotechnological approach
12.5.6 Phenylpropanoids: structure, metabolism, and functions in plants
12.5.7 Standardization, Safety, and New Possibilities
12.5.8 Bioactive properties of PP for cosmetic applications
Conclusion
References
Part 12.6 Eco-responsibility applied to plant extraction
12.6.1 Sourcing the plant raw material: Cultivation is key
12.6.2 Transforming the plant into a “drug” to become a cosmetic extract raw material
12.6.3 Extraction
a. The traditional extractions
b. The separation steps
c. The concentration steps
d. The eco-responsible steps around extraction
e. After extraction and concentration: Drying
f. Control steps
12.6.4 An eco-responsible extract
12.6.5 Certification or not?
12.6.6 The GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) parameter
12.6.7 Eco-responsibility applied to formulation
a. Oily phase
1. Oils
2. Vegetable oil and vegetable Oil esters
3. Antioxidants
b. Water phase
Part 12.7 The industrial frame: Concrete, green solutions for production and waste management
12.7.1 An example of an alternative, eco-friendly process for plant extraction: Zeodration, a unique eco-responsible solution to dry plant extracts
a. The principle
b. Ecological advantages
12.7.2 Water and biodiversity gardens An original innovation: Restoring wetlands in industrial areas
a. The project’s origins
b. Resources implemented
c. The return of animal biodiversity
d. A sensory environment, conducive to awareness
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