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Index
Cover
Contents
Destination Middle East
Getting Started
WHEN TO GO
COSTS & MONEY
READING UP
MUST-SEE MOVIES
TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
Middle East Stories
EGYPT
IRAQ
JORDAN
ISRAEL
PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
LEBANON
SYRIA
TURKEY
History, Politics & : Foreign Affairs
CRADLE OF CIVILISATION
BIRTH OF EMPIRE
HERE COME THE GREEKS
ROMAN MIDDLE EAST
THE COMING OF ISLAM
EARLY ISLAM
THE CRUSADES & THEIR AFTERMATH
THE RISE OF THE OTTOMAN TURKS
LIFE UNDER THE OTTOMANS
EUROPE & THE OTTOMAN DECLINE
COLONIAL MIDDLE EAST
ISRAEL’S INDEPENDENCE
ARAB (DIS)UNITY
NEW FORCES OF ARAB RESISTANCE
ARAB-ISRAELI WARS
PEACE & REVOLUTION
BLOODY AFTERMATH
THE FALL, RISE & FALL OF HOPE
THE MORE THINGS CHANGE
Religion
ISLAM
JUDAISM
CHRISTIANITY
Arts
ARCHITECTURE
CARPETS
CINEMA
DECORATIVE ARTS
VISUAL ARTS
LITERATURE
MUSIC
Food & Drink
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
DRINKS
CELEBRATIONS
WHERE & WHEN TO EAT & DRINK
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
EATING WITH KIDS
Environment
THE LAND
WILDLIFE
NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE RESERVES
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Egypt
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
RELIGION
CAIRO
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
CAIRO FOR CHILDREN
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND CAIRO
MEMPHIS, SAQQARA & DAHSHUR
MEDITERRANEAN COAST
ALEXANDRIA
ROSETTA (AR-RASHID)
NILE VALLEY
LUXOR
NORTH OF LUXOR
SOUTH OF LUXOR
ASWAN
AROUND ASWAN
WESTERN OASES
KHARGA OASIS
DAKHLA OASIS
FARAFRA OASIS
BAHARIYA OASIS
SIWA OASIS
SUEZ CANAL
PORT SAID
SUEZ
RED SEA COAST
HURGHADA
AL-QUSEIR
MARSA ALAM
SINAI
RAS MOHAMMED NATIONAL PARK
SHARM EL-SHEIKH & NA’AMA BAY
DAHAB
ST KATHERINE’S MONASTERY
NUWEIBA
TABA
EGYPT DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
COURSES
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
MONEY
POST
SHOPPING
TELEPHONE & FAX
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
TRANSPORT IN EGYPT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Iraq
WARNING
CLIMATE
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
RELIGION
ENVIRONMENT
BAGHDAD
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
SIGHTS
SLEEPING & EATING
SOUTHERN IRAQ
BABYLON
KARBALA
NAJAF
UR
BASRA
NORTHERN IRAQ
KIRKUK
MOSUL
IRAQI KURDISTAN
ZAKHO
DOHUK
LALISH
AMADIYA
SULAV
BARZAN
AKRE
GALI ALI BEG & THE HAMILTON ROAD
SHAQLAWA
ERBIL
AROUND ERBIL
DUKAN
SULAYMANIYAH
AHMADAWA
HALABJA
IRAQ DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
BUSINESS HOURS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
ELECTRICITY
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INTERNET ACCESS
INTERNET RESOURCES
LANGUAGE
MONEY
POST
TELEPHONE
TOILETS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
VISAS
TRANSPORT IN IRAQ
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Israel & the Palestinian Territories
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
SPORT
RELIGION
ARTS
ENVIRONMENT
FOOD & DRINK
JERUSALEM
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
COURSES
JERUSALEM FOR CHILDREN
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
MEDITERRANEAN COAST
TEL AVIV
JAFFA
HAIFA
CAESAREA
AKKO (ACRE)
GALILEE
NAZARETH
TIBERIAS
SEA OF GALILEE
UPPER GALILEE & THE GOLAN HEIGHTS
ROSH PINA
HULA VALLEY
GOLAN HEIGHTS
TSFAT
DEAD SEA
QUMRAN
EIN GEDI
MASADA
THE NEGEV
BE’ER SHEVA
SDE BOKER & AVDAT
MITZPE RAMON
EILAT
AROUND EILAT
THE WEST BANK & GAZA STRIP
RAMALLAH
AROUND RAMALLAH
JERICHO
AROUND JERICHO
BETHLEHEM
AROUND BETHLEHEM
HEBRON
NABLUS
GAZA CITY
ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BOOKS
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
COURSES
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INTERNET ACCESS
LANGUAGE
MONEY
POST
TELEPHONE
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
WORK
TRANSPORT IN ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Jordan
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
SPORT
RELIGION
ARTS
ENVIRONMENT
FOOD & DRINK
AMMAN
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
AMMAN FOR CHILDREN
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND AMMAN
WADI AS-SEER & IRAQ AL-AMIR
JERASH & THE NORTH
JERASH
AJLOUN
AJLOUN FOREST RESERVE
IRBID
UMM QAIS
PELLA (TABAQAT FAHL)
THE DEAD SEA & AROUND
BETHANY-BEYOND-THE-JORDAN
THE DEAD SEA
WADI MUJIB NATURE RESERVE
THE EASTERN DESERT
UMM AL-JIMAL
THE DESERT CASTLES
KING’S HIGHWAY
MADABA
AROUND MADABA
MACHAERUS (MUKAWIR)
WADI MUJIB
KARAK
TAFILA
DANA NATURE RESERVE
SHOBAK
PETRA & THE SOUTH
PETRA & WADI MUSA
WADI RUM
AQABA
JORDAN DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BOOKS
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
COURSES
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INSURANCE
INTERNET ACCESS
INTERNET RESOURCES
LANGUAGE
LAUNDRY
MAPS
MONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY
POST
SHOPPING
SOLO TRAVELLERS
TELEPHONE
TIME
TOILETS
TOURIST INFORMATION
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
WORK
TRANSPORT IN JORDAN
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Lebanon
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
RELIGION
ARTS
ENVIRONMENT
FOOD & DRINK
BEIRUT
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
BEIRUT FOR CHILDREN
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND BEIRUT
BEIT MERY & BRUMMANA
JEITA GROTTO
JOUNIEH
NORTH OF BEIRUT
BYBLOS (JBAIL)
TRIPOLI (TRABLOUS)
BCHARRÉ & THE QADISHA VALLEY
THE CEDARS
SOUTH OF BEIRUT
SIDON (SAIDA)
TEMPLE OF ECHMOUN
TYRE (SOUR)
CHOUF MOUNTAINS
BEKAA VALLEY
ZAHLÉ
BAALBEK
AANJAR
LEBANON DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BOOKS
BUSINESS HOURS
COURSES
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
MONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY
TELEPHONE
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
TRANSPORT IN LEBANON
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Syria
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
RELIGION
ARTS
ENVIRONMENT
DAMASCUS
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND DAMASCUS
BOSRA
SEIDNAYYA
MAALULA
HOMS
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
SLEEPING & EATING
HAMA
GETTING THERE & AWAY
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
CRAC DES CHEVALIERS
HISTORY
SIGHTS
SLEEPING & EATING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
APAMEA
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
ALEPPO
QALA’AT SAMAAN
DEAD CITIES
LATTAKIA
INFORMATION
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
AROUND LATTAKIA
UGARIT
QALA’AT SALADIN
PALMYRA
HISTORY
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
TOURS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
THE EUPHRATES
DEIR EZ-ZUR
SOUTHEAST OF DEIR EZ-ZUR
NORTHWEST OF DEIR EZ-ZUR
SYRIA DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
COURSES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
MONEY
POST
TELEPHONE
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
TRANSPORT IN SYRIA
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Turkey
CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
HISTORY
THE CULTURE
SPORT
RELIGION
ARTS
ENVIRONMENT
FOOD
İSTANBUL
DRINK
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
TOURS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND İSTANBUL
EDİRNE
İZNİK
BURSA
AEGEAN COAST
ÇANAKKALE
ECEABAT (MAYDOS)
GALLIPOLI (GELİBOLU) Peninsula
TROY (Truva)
BEHRAMKALE & ASSOS
AYVALIK
BERGAMA & PERGAMUM
İZMİR
ÇEŞME
SELÇUK
EPHESUS (EFES)
KUŞADASI
PAMUKKALE
BODRUM
MEDITERRANEAN COAST
MARMARİS
KÖYCEĞİZ
DALYAN
FETHİYE
ÖLÜDENİZ
PATARA
KALKAN
KAŞ
OLYMPOS & ÇIRALI
ANTALYA
AROUND ANTALYA
SİDE
ALANYA
THE EASTERN COAST
ANTAKYA (HATAY)
CENTRAL ANATOLIA
ANKARA
SİVAS
KONYA
CAPPADOCIA (KAPADOKYA)
GÖREME
UÇHİSAR
ZELVE VALLEY
AVANOS
ÜRGÜP
MUSTAFAPAŞA
IHLARA VALLEY
KAYSERİ
THE BLACK SEA & NORTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
TRABZON
ERZURUM
KARS
DOĞUBAYAZIT
SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA
VAN
DİYARBAKIR
MARDİN
ŞANLIURFA (URFA)
MT NEMRUT
GAZİANTEP (ANTEP)
TURKEY DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BUSINESS HOURS
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INTERNET ACCESS
LANGUAGE
MAPS
MONEY
POST
Telephone & Fax
TOILETS
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
TRANSPORT IN Turkey
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
Middle East Directory
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
CLIMATE CHARTS
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INSURANCE
Internet Access
MONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
Smoking
SOLO TRAVELLERS
Telephone
TIME
TOILETS
TOURIST INFORMATION
TRAVELLERS with disabilities
Visas
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
WORK
Transport in the Middle East
GETTING THERE & AWAY
ENTERING THE MIDDLE EAST
AIR
LAND
SEA
TOURS
AIR
BICYCLE
BOAT
BUS
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
HITCHING
LOCAL TRANSPORT
TRAIN
Health
BEFORE YOU GO
INSURANCE
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
MEDICAL CHECKLIST
INTERNET RESOURCES
FURTHER READING
IN TRANSIT
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)
JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
IN THE MIDDLE EAST
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE
INFECTIOUS DISEASES
TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
ENVIRONMENTaL HAZARDS
TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN
WOMEN’S HEALTH
Language
ARABIC
TRANSLITERATION
PRONUNCIATION
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS
HEALTH
ACCOMMODATION & SERVICES
TIME & DAYS
MONTHS
NUMBERS
TRANSPORT
HEBREW
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS
ACCOMMODATION & SERVICES
TIME & NUMBERS
TRANSPORT
TURKISH
PRONUNCIATION
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS
HEALTH
ACCOMMODATION & SERVICES
TIME & NUMBERS
TRANSPORT
Glossary
The Authors
ANTHONY HAM
JAMES BAINBRIDGE
César Soriano
AMELIA THOMAS
JENNY WALKER
RAFAEL WLODARKSI
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Behind the Scenes
THIS BOOK
THANKS
OUR READERS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
MAP LEGEND
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